KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR
- Thread starter Haines
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Devilinthiscity
Member
So I bought a Samsung 4K UHD bluray player today and was wondering how well those Disney wow discs work for calibration.
I would like to know as well as I have the 43'' version.
(Also by chance did yours update to 04.30.70 yet?)
vatstep
This poster pulses with an appeal so broad the typical restraints of our societies fall by the wayside.
KyleOnTheRun
Member
Huh. I was positive that mine stayed in Game Mode, but I'll look into it again. Thanks for correcting.
I believe the issue occurs when you are in "Game mode," not that it is specifically related to games/gaming.
Sorry, not trying to be annoying. Just an FYI.
SilverArrow20XX
Walks in the Light of the Crystal
Yeah. My apps seem to have their own settings saved. It doesn't matter what input I'm on when I enter it. Netflix automatically changes to whatever settings I put last time it was open.
AngelOFDeath
Member
Confirmed, I was on cable tv HDMI with specific settings, switched over to Youtube and it has it's own settings.
Seems I will only get 4K display on the Xbox One S if I stick to the official HDMI cable. That's slightly disappointing as I had a larger 15 foot HDMI 4K cable I wanted to use to avoid any ugly looping in the front of my TV shelf.
In any event, can I get some settings recommendations for the XB1? Color depth is at 8 bit by default, should I increase it? What about native 1080p games vs upscaled 4K?
Also, is the calibration test accurate? Because in the part about contrast, it instructs to adjust the contrast until the sun icon is barely visible. To do that, I would have to crank the contrast up, not down.
In any event, can I get some settings recommendations for the XB1? Color depth is at 8 bit by default, should I increase it? What about native 1080p games vs upscaled 4K?
Also, is the calibration test accurate? Because in the part about contrast, it instructs to adjust the contrast until the sun icon is barely visible. To do that, I would have to crank the contrast up, not down.
Art Vandilay
Member
Yeah, I believe you're right. I've been in game mode though, then started a video in the Amazon Video app, and I'm pretty sure it automatically switched to movie mode w/ HDR. Although I may be mistaken.
Aztechnology
Member
For SDR content an overbrightened image that leads to a cloudier looking image. (Depends on how bright your viewing area is) but generally 12 is pretty bright.
Turn off auto dimming though. It's bad.
I leave contrast to 100 for hdr/sdr. My eyes can't really tell a difference between 94 contrast and 100.
TLZ
Banned
Well yes. It's just one game mode setting. But I wouldn't call that a bug though. It's just a design choice. A bug would mean we have that option but it isn't working as intended. This is also different because game mode still falls under the other 4 presets. It isn't its own.
I do hope they give us different sdr and hdr settings for game mode of course, but I don't know how they'll do it. Maybe have a different preset for game instead of having it under the current 4.
DreadfulOmen
Member
Sun mode or torch mode usually refers to the dynamic mode and dynamic contrast.
I'm still debating which picture preset mode to use: Dynamic seems my favorite, but I'm willing to forego it if it's still resulting in too much loss in detail (and eye strain). Movie seems too greyed out, but would probably be ideal for...well, movies. Standard actually looked really good on the Xbox One S, but the energy saving icon makes me think that's also a preset with compromises.
It's the dynamic contrast/dynamic mode
StreetDisciple
Member
So the 60" is gimped? Mines coming Friday. Any sources for this?
Definitely starting to agree that 100 is too high for contrast. It's a subtle difference but I think 94/95 is a bit better. I can't really tell a difference going any lower than that.
It's just different, the 60" is a Sharp panel while the 55 and 65 are Samsung. You'd have to be a serious videophile to notice any difference. I wouldn't worry about it.
It's just different, the 60" is a Sharp panel while the 55 and 65 are Samsung. You'd have to be a serious videophile to notice any difference. I wouldn't worry about it.
meltingparappa
Member
My PS4 seemingly has all the correct settings.
My HDMI ports have UHD color enabled.
My screen info says I'm watching a HDR signal.
All that, and i'm still not 100% sure I can see a huge difference swapping back and forth between rhe HDR option in The Witness.
Forget about trying to notice the subtleties in The Last of Us.
Hmm.
I also have it connected to my pc, and I've been trying the trick to change the icon to fool it into letting me assign movie mode to it, but the TV keeps instantly changing it back to 'pc'.
God knows both of these issues might have something to do with the convoluted setup of my receiver.
My HDMI ports have UHD color enabled.
My screen info says I'm watching a HDR signal.
All that, and i'm still not 100% sure I can see a huge difference swapping back and forth between rhe HDR option in The Witness.
Forget about trying to notice the subtleties in The Last of Us.
Hmm.
I also have it connected to my pc, and I've been trying the trick to change the icon to fool it into letting me assign movie mode to it, but the TV keeps instantly changing it back to 'pc'.
God knows both of these issues might have something to do with the convoluted setup of my receiver.
Rtings comments about this. The 60 inch does use a different panel, but they say the difference is negligible. I have a 60 inch and I think it looks amazing.
I belive xbox is supposed to be at 10 bit. I havent found out 100percent but we have a 10 bit display so im not sure why it wouod be wrong.
As for the rest, the op is literally weeks and thousands of posts from amazing users figuring out the settings.
So if you have wuestions theres your answers. Yes even the one on 8 bit for xbox,
DreadfulOmen
Member
i can't watch anything on dynamic mode because the colors are too off for my taste. i like watching movies the way the colorist intended. Movie mode looks close to how a movie at the theater would look. Seriously though, it is your TV, you can set it up however you like.
Lot of confusion about the HDR Backlight bug.
It is a bug.
When playing HDR content with Game mode turned off, the TV will automatically switch from your SDR settings to HDR settings, which includes turning the backlight up to 20. This is true for all sources that can display HDR.
However, when in Game mode, switching on any HDR content will not cause the TV to automatically adjust its settings to best display HDR.
Users have two options. One is to manually change the backlight settings when playing HDR content in Game mode. The other is to try leaving your TV in movie mode to play games - don't switch on Game in the settings. I tried this today, and noticed absolutely no perceptible difference in responsiveness. I was playing a bunch of Street Fighter V today, but there was no sense of sluggishness. Maybe some are more sensitive to lag than me; but I suspect that because I use the same settings most of us are in this thread and have no processing effects turned on, the increase in lag is minimal. I'd guess it still clocks in under the 40ms threshold that's usually described as acceptable for most people. Not sure, just know it's not an issue for me, and I don't need Game mode.
The one really irritating bug I need fixed is the one that resets optical audio output to stereo PCM down from DTS or DD Bitstream whenever I change sources. Some good news on that front though: the settings remain when I use the TV's apps. The reset only happens when I switch HDMI inputs, so I can use Netflix, YouTube, and Crave from the Samsung's app screen without having to fix the audio quality every time.
It is a bug.
When playing HDR content with Game mode turned off, the TV will automatically switch from your SDR settings to HDR settings, which includes turning the backlight up to 20. This is true for all sources that can display HDR.
However, when in Game mode, switching on any HDR content will not cause the TV to automatically adjust its settings to best display HDR.
Users have two options. One is to manually change the backlight settings when playing HDR content in Game mode. The other is to try leaving your TV in movie mode to play games - don't switch on Game in the settings. I tried this today, and noticed absolutely no perceptible difference in responsiveness. I was playing a bunch of Street Fighter V today, but there was no sense of sluggishness. Maybe some are more sensitive to lag than me; but I suspect that because I use the same settings most of us are in this thread and have no processing effects turned on, the increase in lag is minimal. I'd guess it still clocks in under the 40ms threshold that's usually described as acceptable for most people. Not sure, just know it's not an issue for me, and I don't need Game mode.
The one really irritating bug I need fixed is the one that resets optical audio output to stereo PCM down from DTS or DD Bitstream whenever I change sources. Some good news on that front though: the settings remain when I use the TV's apps. The reset only happens when I switch HDMI inputs, so I can use Netflix, YouTube, and Crave from the Samsung's app screen without having to fix the audio quality every time.
bar mitzvah
Neo Member
Movie mode is a disaster for games. I prefer to just change the brightness manually when it doesn't automatically switch. Like, it's around 5-6 frames of lag. SF5 has built in input lag (7-8f), so that would be hellish.
From Rtings: 1080p @ 60Hz Outside Game Mode : 113.5 ms
ManUnkindH
Member
Anyone kind enough to explain the difference between Auto Colour Space and Native Colour Space?
Seems I get bland colors on my PS4 PRO for SDR games when I use the AUTO setting, the one most users recommend....
Seems I get bland colors on my PS4 PRO for SDR games when I use the AUTO setting, the one most users recommend....
My saga of HDMI cable woes continues. Returned the 10m cables I had, bought a 7m one. It works just as bad, with missing refresh rates in lower resolutions, no full chroma subsampling and even 4K 4:2:0 was limited to 59 Hz for some reason! For testing moved my computer right next to the TV and hooked it up with the cable that comes with the PS4 Pro. At that length everything works perfectly so nothing wrong with my TV or GPU.
So now I need to somehow find a cable that is at least 7m long and works as expected. Real pain in the ass.
So now I need to somehow find a cable that is at least 7m long and works as expected. Real pain in the ass.
TwinPeaksBOB
Neo Member
Got the 55" yesterday, and i'm really happy with the picture quality when watching Netflix, Blu-Rays, TV etc. But I've been a little dissapointed with how games look. I first tried Watch Dogs 2, and it looks downright terrible. There's this shimmering and lots of jaggies on everything, npcs, cars, trees ... It didn't look this bad on my old 1080p TV. I also tried Battlefield 1 (campaign) and the image was cleaner, but still very washed out. Same with No Man's Sky. I'm playing on the OG PS4 by the way (saving up for the Pro). Any one else had this problem? Or know what the problem might be?
MHWilliams
Member
Anyone got a lead on an HDMI splitter that'll pass a full 4K/HDR signal?
ManUnkindH
Member
Yeah it's a fucking nightmare with the audio settings, I have to correct them every time I change HDMIs - PS4 to Xbox One or PS3....
Unfortunately the problem is the poor (at least I think so) upscaling of the TV for a 1080p signal. I came from a Sony HX929 and felt the image was soft and bland. I got the pro two weeks later and it is as sharp (or sharper) and more vibrant than my HX929. The upscaling in the pro is clearly more effective than the tv upscaling. Of course, when you play games like Deus Ex, Ratchet and Clank or FFXV on it, it really shines.
But yes, I definitely see what you're saying.
A new question from me. I set HDR settings as I wanted them yesterday night. Now that I want to continue to watch Daredevil mid-day, it is too bright in my room and the screen is a bit dark in comparison, makes reflections stand out more. What setting can I crank up without losing too much image quality? Warm2 to something else? I know HDR is meant to be viewed in darkness but there's not much I can do about my living room, literally windows opposite of the TV.
DreadfulOmen
Member
Doesn't it only take like 10 seconds to change? A nightmare would be like a handshake issue that can't be resolved, or a problem with the tv not being able to display the image correctly.
DreadfulOmen
Member
We're not in your room. Can't you just change some settings and see for yourself? Why dont you try warm1 and if that doesnt work for you, try standard.
TwinPeaksBOB
Neo Member
Thanks for the answer Blizzje. I was afraid the upscaling had something to do with it.
On a brand new, eye-wateringly expensive TV, being constantly reminded of a bug a user has to correct for isn't fun. Sure, it's nowhere near as bad as an HDMI handshake issue or flaw with the display, but it's still a problem that those of us using optical out shouldn't have to deal with.
I know the numbers - I guess I'm not in that upper echelon of players who notices the lag. I genuinely can't tell any difference at all. Given how significant the lag measured by Rtings is, I can't help but wonder if my use case is actually delivering less lag. I'll play around some more today. I currently own zero HDR games on the PS4 - doesn't HDR increase lag significantly? That might be it: if were to play some games in HDR, the lag would probably hit that 113ms and I'd perceive it. Regardless, I believe someone posted that Samsung are aware of this bug, so fingers crossed it gets fixed in an update soon.
Dzab
Member
I mentioned this quite a few pages back but every game has colour banding, it's even set to 4:2:0 so it shouldn't be happening. Tried every port, different cables, everything. Not too noticeable during gameplay but if I stop to look around I can see it in places. Especially bad in menus. Both HDR and SDR content. Sigh
Wrestlemania
Banned
Update - I've actually managed to get HDR output from Shadow Warrior 2, so I know it's working, but I still can't get it from any streaming services. Weird.
Right now, people are dealing with the PSVR PU's inability to pass through HDR with a combination of Certified Premium Monoprice HDMI cables, and the Sewell Direct IBIS switch. Some are having more luck than others, but this seems to be due to mechanical failures with the switch, or poor quality cables - theoretically, this setup should work.That thread will be the best place for you to find info to help with your question, whatever your use case is. Good luck!
One thing I'm missing from my old TV, unless I'm missing a setting somewhere. Being able to turn off the image but still play sound. I have radio channels on my cable box and I always play that for my dog when he needs to be left alone for a while, keeps him a bit calmer. But to save power, I used to turn the image off on my old TV, but I can't see that option on this set. Closest is power savings to max, but that just dims the picture.
noomi
Member
I just can't let go of Dynamic Contrast guys, I can't....Without it the picture is just hard for me to see, it's too dim. I'm just not seeing how it ruins the image, I don't see it crushing any blacks and over saturating colors. When I have an HDR movie/show playing, if I don't have Dynamic Contrast set to medium I feel like I am just not able to see detail/color properly.
Here is what I use:
Games = Dynamic Contrast Off
SDR = Dynamic Contrast Low
HDR = Dynamic Contrast Medium
Here is what I use:
Games = Dynamic Contrast Off
SDR = Dynamic Contrast Low
HDR = Dynamic Contrast Medium
infinityBCRT
Member
I think this was fixed in a recent firmware. As of 114x it was an issue. Hopefully game mode backlight is next.
Psst. I just noticed there's an audio delay option. Seems as though it defaults to 80 on hdmi. I turned it down to 20 to match the display lag on my Xbox and ps4. The apps default to 30 but I believe 20 is more accurate based on some testing I did with YouTube. I kept it at 40 for my Apple tv which is the only device I don't have on game mode (although there's no reason I shouldn't...)
Also noticed another person mention there's no detail loss on low or dynamic contrast. That's false. Can't believe it's still coming up. But if you don't mind detail loss I guess do that. The screen is more than bright enough for me without it on.
Again, I'm asking in regards to games. I won't be able to test movies out fully until the 4K movies I ordered arrive.
What does the Energy Saving icon refer to with the Standard preset? Some stuff looks really good under that setting, but I imagine it has some compromises since people don't seem to recommend it.
ManUnkindH
Member
Surprised nobody put this here yet: Digital Foundry's recommended settings for PS4 PRO:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsTHtQ8hI1U
What I don't understand is why is he using Limited range instead of Full. Can someone clarify? It's a fucking maze with these settings....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsTHtQ8hI1U
What I don't understand is why is he using Limited range instead of Full. Can someone clarify? It's a fucking maze with these settings....
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