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$500 cans on, this is how you dream right - Official Headphone Thread
- Thread starter HiResDes
- Start date
HiResDes said:
consider me surprised that you can get customs for only 350. that's a decent deal
but... 350 is not the total price. you still need to pay for the audiologist appt separately.
plus there's the hassle of the appt in the first place and having to wait for the molds to be made before you can use the IEMs.
but, anyway, if price is really no option, then it'll be hard to beat the comfort of custom molded IEMs.
i haven't heard the 5p but the 50p is an awful headphone. i liked the t1 fwiw.
from my stance i see a lot of people throwing a lot of money at this hobby within the first 6 months of getting into it...just give it time over the years and you'll be able to afford the sound you want.
from my stance i see a lot of people throwing a lot of money at this hobby within the first 6 months of getting into it...just give it time over the years and you'll be able to afford the sound you want.
So after a lot of consideration and several in-store testings, I've bitten the bullet and bought a W1000X.
I've very badly wanted a high-end can again for a while, and the current RS1i doesn't appeal to me like my previous pairs of vintage / classic RS1 did. In side by side comparison, I preferred the W1000X.
iPad drives them well, though I've started looking at amps... the sickness! It begins ANEW!
Also, Hibiki.
I've very badly wanted a high-end can again for a while, and the current RS1i doesn't appeal to me like my previous pairs of vintage / classic RS1 did. In side by side comparison, I preferred the W1000X.
iPad drives them well, though I've started looking at amps... the sickness! It begins ANEW!
Also, Hibiki.
Pretty pleased with the wood itself, yeah. Seems like a total crapshoot as to what kind of cross-section you get... I've seen some that don't have much in the way of ringy-goodness. Both of my cups match well.
Seriously though, the lower regions on these are what I remember the L3000 sounding like. Unlike the L3000 though, I actually enjoy the upper mids and higher bits on the W1000X. They're not as immediate as a Grado, but very well textured and never covered by anything else. I'd say the emphasis is on the lower mids, but I haven't seen a chart and could be wrong.
Just incredible with orchestral stuff.
Seriously though, the lower regions on these are what I remember the L3000 sounding like. Unlike the L3000 though, I actually enjoy the upper mids and higher bits on the W1000X. They're not as immediate as a Grado, but very well textured and never covered by anything else. I'd say the emphasis is on the lower mids, but I haven't seen a chart and could be wrong.
Just incredible with orchestral stuff.
Dynamite Ringo Matsuri
Member
Congrats! I've always wanted to hear a pair of Leatherheads myself, seems like you have. Lucky guy.
Dynamite Ringo Matsuri said:
I used to have... a... let's call it a "problem." At my peak I had a really nice Vintage set of RS1 and a Melos tube amp. I even won a contest to be Audio Technica's rep at the first Head-Fi convention. Got a free pair of the woodie-clip-ons as a gift for it. Neat, but no lower end... totally outclassed in general musicality by a $15 Koss. Super detailed and very pretty, but you go outside in any sort of noisy area and they're just gone. I dunno. I should give them another try someday.
The L3000 was such a strange bird to me... the bass was just an absolute dream (low but with just amazing PRaT and timbre) but they always seemed congested. These can feel a little congested when your ears are adjusting to them, but it seems like that all just vanishes so quickly.
Dynamite Ringo Matsuri
Member
Yeah, it was the prat and timbre that interested me in the first place. They just seemed like really fun and musical phones, which the sound that I like. I like feeling like I'm listening to a performance as opposed to a well reproduced recording.
Dynamite Ringo Matsuri said:
I'm big into texture and PRaT. I had a newer 325i that was pretty good at it for a while, but they're so heavy. Metal Grados just aren't comfy enough. I have a 272 HD which is great with PRaT, but completely glosses over texture... the W1000X is really scratching an itch in that dept.
whats the opinion around here on coiled vs non coiled headphone wires.... i'm trying to decide on ATH-m50 vs m50s. I use them in alot of places, my apartment, school, and parents house on both a laptop and desktop. Does the coil get annoying?
Also, I have windows 7 on my computer and I have a question about the audio setup. I have it set up to do surround sound on my speakers, and the computer has a separate headphone slot. When i plug in the headphones, does it automatically switch to stereo or am i just going to miss some of the channels of the sound if its something in surround sound?
Also, I have windows 7 on my computer and I have a question about the audio setup. I have it set up to do surround sound on my speakers, and the computer has a separate headphone slot. When i plug in the headphones, does it automatically switch to stereo or am i just going to miss some of the channels of the sound if its something in surround sound?
E9 and E7; what's the difference between those two? E9 hooks up to the headphone port from my iMac, which will do what exactly? Again, sorry; I'm trying to wrap my head around all these stuff and I'm a little bit lost. I wanna buy one right now from Amazon but I wanna know the differences between E9 and E7 and what the combined force of them would achieve.LCfiner said:
And the 1964T; what makes them better than the rest mentioned in here? (Wistone, Fischer, etc.)
Echoes said:
E7 is a DAC + Amp. The DAC is a digital to analog converter and will basically replace the soundcard on your computer and offer cleaner sound. the Amp is, well, an amp. more power to drive headphones. the E7 is a portable thing and can be taken with you and used with laptops, iPods, etc.
E9 is only an Amp, but more powerful and better than the Amp in the E7. the E9 is a desktop only thing and requires a wall power source
Now, similar to Voltron, the E7 and E9 have been designed to work together so the E7 can be docked into the E9 and it will act only as a DAC, bypass the Amp part of the E7, and pass off the analog signal to the Amp in the E9.
the benefit to this approach is that you can use the small E7 when out and about and then plug it in the E9 when you are at your desk and get a bit cleaner and more powerful sound from the E7 + E9 combo while at home
thanks, that sounds long enough for most of my regular use... i think i'm gonna go with coiledAshhong said:
anyone have a suggestion regarding:
"Also, I have windows 7 on my computer and I have a question about the audio setup. I have it set up to do surround sound on my speakers, and the computer has a separate headphone slot. When i plug in the headphones, does it automatically switch to stereo or am i just going to miss some of the channels of the sound if its something in surround sound?"
punkypine said:
Depends on the computer, but if it's onboard like HD audio or AC97 or whatever, it'll switch to stereo on the jack you plug into. Mine does, it's some newer form of HD Audio.
Just be warned that a PC headphone jack from onboard sound, especially one at the front of the machine, is one of the worst sources available. Sensitive headphones will hear crackling whenever the processor is running, or in some cases even you moving the mouse. My understanding is that this is because the audio circuitry is unshielded and connected to all the other working parts.
As for coiled v. uncoiled, coiled is great when you're using a headphone portably, but can be such a pain in the neck when you've got it on a desk with a small source since it seems like it's almost always pulled to its limit. I've had a couple of phones with them, and now I avoid them like the plague.
Fantasic, thanks a lot for clearing that up. Now the final question: should I get the E7/9 combo, or NuForce HD (or HDP). The only thing that's holding me from getting the latter is that I'm no audiophile, so I'm not even sure if that would be an investement in the right place (for my ears).LCfiner said:
Echoes said:
What headphones are you looking to use? Personally I'd go for the HDP. Playing 360 or PS3? Grab an optical cable, run it from the console to your NuForce and now you can game with your headphones on. I also think Dreams went from the Fiio combo to the HDP and found it better. IRRC. I'm not sure.
As for the question you had earlier about the IEMs, those are custom fit so they isolate better and proved the perfect fit for your ear as opposed to universal IEMs. Downside is you're the only one who can use them.
dantehemi said:
Shure SRH750 DJ's are another choice, but they don't sound quite as good, and the build quality isn't as good either...The upside is that they are lighter and that you might think they look better
M-Audio Q40's are great, but they are quite bass heavy and don't sound as good unamped, which kind of negates their portability.
With this: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=25606648&postcount=1344
I'm re-thinking getting the E9 (since 5000 and 2000 are similar I guess). Decisions, decisions!
I'm re-thinking getting the E9 (since 5000 and 2000 are similar I guess). Decisions, decisions!
PflargBlarg
Member
Got tracking number for the LCD-2s today, they should be here by Thursday. The wait is almost over!
Dreams-Visions
Member
Get the D2000's and the Icon HDP (unless you're not going to run out of your computer or already have a DAC, in which case, I'd recommend the regular Icon)...and profit.Echoes said:
the D5000's are very expensive these days. EQ the D2000s a little and be exceedingly happy. Later if you want to upgrade, you'll probably get similar money to what you paid for your D2000s. cans hold their value quite well.
Hey, anyone know much about lower-end headphone amps these days? Round abouts $300, or lower. I had a PPA for a long time that was excellent... fast and detailed. Great with darker headphones (which the W1000X seem to be, to some degree). I went to higher-level stuff after, and now I've got no idea what the good solid-states are.
I think I'll need something with forward mids, punchy bass, and a relatively tame upper end.
EDIT: Yes, I know how absurd it is to call these headphones dark. Having Grados for so long was like staring into the sun or something.
I think I'll need something with forward mids, punchy bass, and a relatively tame upper end.
EDIT: Yes, I know how absurd it is to call these headphones dark. Having Grados for so long was like staring into the sun or something.
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