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[TheExodu5]

This confuses the hell out of me. I've got the same CPU, with better NH-D14 sink running stock freq, and yet there are people are getting much better temps while over clocking. If I ask newegg, would they be willing to exchange the CPU because of this? Or am I just unlucky with a hotter than normal running part?

The margin of error for the temperature sensors is around 10C. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[TheExodu5]

That could be it. The CPU had a ridiculous multiplier like 24. He told me he didn't want to overclock it, and I gave him a WTF stare.

Maybe there's something I don't know about the LGA 1366 line, but what is so special about it on stock? Would he had been better off at the time to buy the LGA 1156 socket?

In a better prospective, how do these LGA 1366 processors compare to the current Sandybridge ones?

I feel like it was totally not worth what he paid for it.

Extreme CPUs are never, ever worth it. Only the most diehard of overclockers get them.
The 1366 line had an unlocked multiplier which allowed for easier overclocking that wasn't bottlenecked by RAM or the motherboard.

Currently, the extreme CPUs are 6 core, so at least they hold a tiny bit of validity.

 

[clav]

Yeah buying one of those ridiculous Intel Extreme Edition CPUs and not overclocking is such a huge waste.

Extreme CPUs are never, ever worth it. Only the most diehard of overclockers get them.
The 1366 line had an unlocked multiplier which allowed for easier overclocking that wasn't bottlenecked by RAM or the motherboard.

Currently, the extreme CPUs are 6 core, so at least they hold a tiny bit of validity.

I'm glad GAF agrees with my assessment. I really don't know what he was thinking at the time.

For his scenario (SATA II), what SSD should he purchase? Intel (which one?), Corsair C300, or OCZ Vertex II?

 

[Manp]

that cpu cooler is great and mighty and all but i just can't stand the fact that one fan is square and the other is round

ocd much?

 

[TheExodu5]

I'm glad GAF agrees with my assessment. I really don't know what he was thinking at the time.

For his scenario (SATA II), what SSD should he purchase? Intel (which one?), Corsair C300, or OCZ Vertex II?

Intel 320

 

[Stantron]

The margin of error for the temperature sensors is around 10C. I wouldn't worry about it.

Wow, really? 10C tolerance is huge. I can only assume that I'm on the high side of the measurement error, and not the other which would make the real temps even hotter. :/

 

[clav]

Intel 320

Thanks.

You chose Intel because of reliability?

 

[TheExodu5]

Thanks.

You chose Intel because of reliability?

Yes. In real world usage, you won't notice a big difference in between the 320 and a Vertex 3. The Intel 320 performs respectably well.

 

[scogoth]

That could be it. The CPU had a ridiculous multiplier like 24. He told me he didn't want to overclock it, and I gave him a WTF stare.

Maybe there's something I don't know about the LGA 1366 line, but what is so special about it on stock? Would he had been better off at the time to buy the LGA 1156 socket?

In a better prospective, how do these LGA 1366 processors compare to the current Sandybridge ones?

I feel like it was totally not worth what he paid for it.

The LGA 1366 are the current top of the line processors for Intels lineup until the fall when the SB-E processors hit. For gaming performance a i7-990x is about the same as a 2600K for $800 more. That being said some are 6 core, unlocked with huge caches sizes and great for workstation use. Unfortunately it is a dead end socket because LGA 2011 is coming out. Spending $300 on a new mobo wouldn't be too crazy because the processor he bought isn't going to be an issue for some time yet. He should OC his cpu because the nehalem CPUs are beasts when it comes to overclocking. As for SATAIII vs SATAII there is negligible difference for most applications. Startup will be virtaully same on a vertex 2 and vertex 3. Vertex 3 just having insane sequential read times so loading games will be almost instantaneous. If he want to get the most out of his CPU, drop 300 on a vertex 3 and another 300 on a Rampage III mobo. If he's upgrading in a year get a vertex 3 skip the mobo. If he's rich and loaded buy a new vertex 3 and buy another when when he upgrades. If he just wants an ssd and not spend lots of money get an Intel 320 or Vertex 2.

 

[Corky]

My google-fu is seriously weak today I'm having trouble finding the most basic things. I'll just post this quickly again since my curiousity is insatiable :

"The only way to get your cpu to throttle down when idle is using an offset voltage while overclocking, correct?

I thought that I don't really need my cpu to run 4.6 @ 1.36 so I'd rather bump it down to say 4.4 and get lower voltages/temps, I tried it out just now :

+0.07v offset , 4.6ghz = 1.36v during prime
+0.06v offset, 4.5 ghz = still 1.36v during prime.

How to go about lowering it?"

 

[Baller. PhD]

Nice pics, Baller. I'm curious what your CPU temps are at idle and stock frequency, since I've got the same Define R3, P8P67 Pro, i7-2600k w/ NH-D14 rig. Unfortunately for some reason, my temps are in the high 38-41C range at idle.?

Still idling at 32C. However, I've removed the re-sat the NH-D14 once already.

The first time I installed it I used to much of the thermal compound. I removed it, cleaned it, and installed again... this time using BARELY a dab. I mean almost nothing. I was then extremely careful while installing, ensuring that I sat it flat against the CPU and didn't have to wiggle at all. Then obviously I made sure I tightened each screw a couple turns at a time and switched, to make sure that it's "even" on the CPU itself.

My first install was giving me 45C idle at stock speed. Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound. Maybe you want to try re-seating your NH-D14?

that cpu cooler is great and mighty and all but i just can't stand the fact that one fan is square and the other is round

ocd much?

I'd probably care if I had a case with a window. But I don't, because I hate cases with windows.

 

[scogoth]

Still idling at 32C. However, I've removed the re-sat the NH-D14 once already.

The first time I installed it I used to much of the thermal compound. I removed it, cleaned it, and installed again... this time using BARELY a dab. I mean almost nothing. I was then extremely careful while installing, ensuring that I sat it flat against the CPU and didn't have to wiggle at all. Then obviously I made sure I tightened each screw a couple turns at a time and switched, to make sure that it's "even" on the CPU itself.

My first install was giving me 45C idle at stock speed. Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound. Maybe you want to try re-seating your NH-D14?

For new builders this is key. For repitition,
Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound.
Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound.
Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound.

Don't be afraid to use less when building your PC for the first time.

that cpu cooler is great and mighty and all but i just can't stand the fact that one fan is square and the other is round

ocd much?

Ones 120mm ones 200mm.

 

[clav]

Yes. In real world usage, you won't notice a big difference in between the 320 and a Vertex 3. The Intel 320 performs respectably well.

All right. I was thinking going along this route as well.

The LGA 1366 are the current top of the line processors for Intels lineup until the fall when the SB-E processors hit. For gaming performance a i7-990x is about the same as a 2600K for $800 more. That being said some are 6 core, unlocked with huge caches sizes and great for workstation use. Unfortunately it is a dead end socket because LGA 2011 is coming out. Spending $300 on a new mobo wouldn't be too crazy because the processor he bought isn't going to be an issue for some time yet. He should OC his cpu because the nehalem CPUs are beasts when it comes to overclocking. As for SATAIII vs SATAII there is negligible difference for most applications. Startup will be virtaully same on a vertex 2 and vertex 3. Vertex 3 just having insane sequential read times so loading games will be almost instantaneous. If he want to get the most out of his CPU, drop 300 on a vertex 3 and another 300 on a Rampage III mobo. If he's upgrading in a year get a vertex 3 skip the mobo. If he's rich and loaded buy a new vertex 3 and buy another when when he upgrades. If he just wants an ssd and not spend lots of money get an Intel 320 or Vertex 2.

Alternatively, he could do what you suggested in bold. I doubt he would want to upgrade in an year, and I'm advising him not to spend so much on a computer when he really doesn't appreciate it in the first place. He doesn't finish his PC games and uses his build more as a status symbol, kind of like a car. Also, with a motherboard upgrade, that would involve me or his friend to do it as he didn't build his PC, and we don't want to do that if it involves using the same chipset.

I think at this point I'll go along the Intel 320 route.

Thanks for your feedback guys.

 

[Absinthe]

Bought this Arctic Cooling Twin Turbo Pro:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186046

Runs much quieter and brought my temps down 20c under load on my 6950 unlocked.

 

[Corky]

gaaaah all this talk about less is more is really making me nervous, I took the "pea-sized thermal paste" literally and applied the size of a pea to my cpu.

 

[Baller. PhD]

gaaaah all this talk about less is more is really making me nervous, I took the "pea-sized thermal paste" literally and applied the size of a pea to my cpu.

Way too much. That's what I did initially and my temps were 12C hotter than they should have been. The correct amount to apply is that of an uncooked piece of rice.

 

[Syphon Filter]

I have a wireless router that my brother uses and all ports are full on it for Ethernet connections. I want to use a wired connection so should i get another wired router or an Ethernet desktop switch?

 

[Manp]

I'd probably care if I had a case with a window. But I don't, because I hate cases with windows.

it's not about the looks, i'm just crazy.

Ones 120mm ones 200mm.

mmm yes? and on is square and the other round 8|

not saying i'm being rational here...

 

[clav]

I have a wireless router that my brother uses and all ports are full on it for Ethernet connections. I want to use a wired connection so should i get another wired router or an Ethernet desktop switch?

A switch is sufficient. Router is overkill. You plan on connecting this switch with the current router, correct?

Note a hub and switch are not the same thing.

 

[·feist·]

For anyone who needs memory, Newegg's current Shell Shocker:

G.SKILL Ripjaws Series DDR3 1600 4GB (2 x 2GB)
http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-231-277-_-05022011

Was: $49.99
Today:$39.99

Ones 120mm ones 200mm.

The second round fan is actually 140mm with 120mm mounting points.

Bought this Arctic Cooling Twin Turbo Pro:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186046

Runs much quieter and brought my temps down 20c under load on my 6950 unlocked.

Nice. Hope you used the sinks that came with it (or the stock sinks if they fit along with the AC).

 

[Stantron]

Still idling at 32C. However, I've removed the re-sat the NH-D14 once already.

The first time I installed it I used to much of the thermal compound. I removed it, cleaned it, and installed again... this time using BARELY a dab. I mean almost nothing. I was then extremely careful while installing, ensuring that I sat it flat against the CPU and didn't have to wiggle at all. Then obviously I made sure I tightened each screw a couple turns at a time and switched, to make sure that it's "even" on the CPU itself.

My first install was giving me 45C idle at stock speed. Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound. Maybe you want to try re-seating your NH-D14?


I'd probably care if I had a case with a window. But I don't, because I hate cases with windows.

Yeah, I don't know if you saw my pics several pages back that I show my first botched thermal compound application where it bled to the sides of the CPU lid. I did two more installs with much less thermal compound, but the temps barely changed at all. I also have an issue with Core0 being ~8C hotter than the other cores. I'll try again; this time with even less... barely a dab as you say.

For new builders this is key. For repitition,
Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound.
Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound.
Less really is more when it comes to thermal compound.

Don't be afraid to use less when building your PC for the first time.

Ha. I hardly recognized you with the different avatar. Ok, got it.


Also, +1 for the Intel 320 160GB SSD. From the moment I press power, Windows7 is fully booted within 35-40 sec. So nice.

 

[Corky]

Way too much. That's what I did initially and my temps were 12C hotter than they should have been. The correct amount to apply is that of an uncooked piece of rice.

Well maybe I'm exaggerating, looking at those peas they do look way bigger than my dab of thermal compound, I'd say I used half their size. Nonetheless I live in a cold place so I'm not sure what do think about the temps.

 

[Syphon Filter]

A switch is sufficient. Router is overkill. You plan on connecting this switch with the current router, correct?

Note a hub and switch are not the same thing.

I am looking at this right now. It's a switch i believe right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122005

I am planning on connecting the switch to the current router. So i just get an Ethernet cable and plug one side to the wireless router and the other to the switch?

 

[Alucrid]

The CPU on a laptop is usually something you don't upgrade ever (unless you're someone who likes to buy old chips 5-6 years later at low prices.) Usually, it's hard to disassemble as they make it very user unfriendly to access it, so think about if it's worth paying more now for some extra juice.

The memory upgrade I would do that myself. Up to you though if you're comfortable doing so.

The Premium HD display = IPS = better color reproduction and viewing angles over the standard cheap TN display. If you've used TN panels your entire life, then it won't really matter. This is important for people like photoshop artists. Basically, if you've seen the iPad display and want that on your computer, then this is the upgrade.

Ah ok. I don't need an IPS screen for my laptop then. I can probably do the ram myself since I built my own computer...but yeah, a low i5 is probably fine for me. Thanks for the info.

 

[woodsey1982]

GAF - so how much more CPU power would a core i7 2.9 ghz give you than a core i5 3.2 ghz? Worth the extra money?

 

[black_vegeta]

I am looking at this right now. It's a switch i believe right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122005

I am planning on connecting the switch to the current router. So i just get an Ethernet cable and plug one side to the wireless router and the other to the switch?

Yes, it's a switch.

 

[clav]

I am looking at this right now. It's a switch i believe right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122005

I am planning on connecting the switch to the current router. So i just get an Ethernet cable and plug one side to the wireless router and the other to the switch?

Yep. That is all you need to do.

 

[Absinthe]

Nice. Hope you used the sinks that came with it (or the stock sinks if they fit along with the AC).

Yea, I used them. At first they wouldn't stick until I read the directions about using an eraser to clean the mem chips.

Worked perfectly.

 

[Syphon Filter]

Tekky it can be any regular Ethernet port right? Not the main[wlan?] port?

 

[Alucrid]

I am looking at this right now. It's a switch i believe right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122005

I am planning on connecting the switch to the current router. So i just get an Ethernet cable and plug one side to the wireless router and the other to the switch?

Yep. Then run more ethernet cords to whatever else. I have one switch in my room, then a cable running out to another switch for the tv for the xbox and ps3.

 

[Baller. PhD]

So I've still got one question regarding my build. The DirectCU II 570 is heavy. It seems to be too heavy to support itself... as you can see in my pic it's already 'bending' a bit and it's only been installed for like 48 hours. Is this dangerous? Should I try to prop it up somehow? I'm almost regretting not going with a Silverstone FT02, but that price...

 

[clav]

Tekky it can be any regular Ethernet port right? Not the main[wlan?] port?

You got it.

So I've still got one question regarding my build. The DirectCU II 570 is heavy. It seems to be too heavy to support itself... as you can see in my pic it's already 'bending' a bit and it's only been installed for like 48 hours. Is this dangerous? Should I try to prop it up somehow? I'm almost regretting not going with a Silverstone FT02, but that price...

If it concerns you, then lie the desktop down horizontally.

I know a friend who purchased large CPU heatsinks back in college. Apparently, every time he shipped his desktop tower back home, he required to remove the heatsink because for the times he did not, the heatsink ripped the CPU off the processor during the shipping process.

edit: Oh, you're talking about GPU. Well, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[black_vegeta]

So I've still got one question regarding my build. The DirectCU II 570 is heavy. It seems to be too heavy to support itself... as you can see in my pic it's already 'bending' a bit and it's only been installed for like 48 hours. Is this dangerous? Should I try to prop it up somehow? I'm almost regretting not going with a Silverstone FT02, but that price...

Ballers never worry about price mang.

 

[Baller. PhD]

Ballers never worry about price mang.

The ones with advanced degrees most certainly do.

 

[Roarer]

"The only way to get your cpu to throttle down when idle is using an offset voltage while overclocking, correct?

I thought that I don't really need my cpu to run 4.6 @ 1.36 so I'd rather bump it down to say 4.4 and get lower voltages/temps, I tried it out just now :

+0.07v offset , 4.6ghz = 1.36v during prime
+0.06v offset, 4.5 ghz = still 1.36v during prime.

How to go about lowering it?"

You want to use a negative offset. I'm not sure exactly how it works but I have mine set at -0.40 and that gives me a voltage of 1.260 @ 4.3 Ghz under load (and drops down to about 0.960v when idle, on a 2500k and p8p67 mobo).

 

[Sanjay]

This confuses the hell out of me. I've got the same CPU, with better NH-D14 sink running stock freq, and yet there are people are getting much better temps while over clocking. If I ask newegg, would they be willing to exchange the CPU because of this? Or am I just unlucky with a hotter than normal running part?

Room temp?

Also I can't stress how good the The Hyper 212+ is for its price/performance. Amazing heatsink with its only weakness being how loud it gets compared to a NH-D14.

 

[Corky]

You want to use a negative offset. I'm not sure exactly how it works but I have mine set at -0.40 and that gives me a voltage of 1.260 @ 4.3 Ghz under load (and drops down to about 0.960v when idle, on a 2500k and p8p67 mobo).

thanks, I'll give it a shot!

btw does anybody know how to find that asus p67 deluxe + 2600k overclock guide on the HardOCP forums? I had it bookmarked and could find it any day of the week but for some wierd reason I can't find it for the life of me now :S!

edit : the way you phrased your post seems that one has to offset mode in order for the cpu to downthrottle correct? I.e using a manual voltage will give you that voltage regardless of cpuusage ?

 

[Roarer]

thanks, I'll give it a shot!
edit : the way you phrased your post seems that one has to offset mode in order for the cpu to downthrottle correct? I.e using a manual voltage will give you that voltage regardless of cpuusage ?

Yup, manual voltage keeps it at that level, no matter what load the CPU is under.

I haven't been able to figure out exactly how offset works (and haven't bothered looking it up since I got such a nice result from just dicking around with it on my own), but I'm guessing that a negative offset lowers your stock voltage by a set amount (or there about) under load and then goes as far down as possible during idle. Exactly how it operates may be down to other options in the EFI/bios as well - I set some of them to Extreme or High, can't remember which, I followed a youtube guide from Ncix and did everything he did (except for the offset voltage). edit: looked it up, here's what I did: "Scroll down and choose the "Ultra High" setting for Load-Line Calibration. This will help minimize Vdroop or dips in CPU voltage under full-load. Now set both Phase Control and Duty Control to "Extreme.""

 

[scogoth]

The second round fan is actually 140mm with 120mm mounting points.

whoops yeah, my bad on that one. 200mm on a cpu that would be pretty epic.

 

[knitoe]

Yup, manual voltage keeps it at that level, no matter what load the CPU is under.

I haven't been able to figure out exactly how offset works (and haven't bothered looking it up since I got such a nice result from just dicking around with it on my own), but I'm guessing that a negative offset lowers your stock voltage by a set amount (or there about) under load and then goes as far down as possible during idle. Exactly how it operates may be down to other options in the EFI/bios as well - I set some of them to Extreme or High, can't remember which, I followed a youtube guide from Ncix and did everything he did (except for the offset voltage).

+ offset adds voltage when you increase the amount.
- offset decrease voltage when you increase the amount.

Using CPU Internal PLL, LLC and so on will also add voltages to total number. Thus, depending on what option you use, you may need to use + or - offset to get the correct voltage.

For example, to get 1.27V and all other the options disable, I will need to use +60 offset. If enable the other options at highest/max, I will need to use -40 offset. Better to use the first choice. The less things need to overclock the better long term.

 

[Marco1]

I have been looking at the i72600K SB cpu and the reviews make this chip to good to be true.
Are the reviews correct on this one?
It's hard to believe how much this cpu overclocks on air.

 

[Baller. PhD]

I have been looking at the i72600K SB cpu and the reviews make this chip to good to be true.
Are the reviews correct on this one?
It's hard to believe how much this cpu overclocks on air.

They're all true. And it's not just the 2600k, but any SB cpu.

 

[Wazzim]

Well maybe I'm exaggerating, looking at those peas they do look way bigger than my dab of thermal compound, I'd say I used half their size. Nonetheless I live in a cold place so I'm not sure what do think about the temps.

I don't understand why you're stressing about your temps when they're perfectly safe..?

 

[Baller. PhD]

I don't understand why you're stressing about your temps when they're perfectly safe..?

Because they could and should be lower, meaning he could overclock more.

 

[Corky]

I don't understand why you're stressing about your temps when they're perfectly safe..?

Well just as PhD baller said they could always be lower.

Anyways, success has been had, I thought about it for a while and decided to step down on my OC in order to get lower temps/longer life. Also I guess I'm, like pretty much everybody else, very gpu-bound so going from 4.6 to 4.4 isn't going to affect gaming one bit.

Nonetheless, went from :

4.6@1.37v ~72 C Prime small fft 100% 1h
4.4@1.27v ~61 C - " -

edit : ok now I finally see the power of the noctua, played L4D2 for a while, and I have no idea if it's a cpudemanding or not but after playing some pretty intensive parts of the game I noticed that coretemp showed a maxtemp of only 42C! And that's on that delinquent core no 4 that is always 5-6 C hotter than it's siblings.

 

[Jin34]

My pc speakers are dying gaf, what are the best budget speakers, say $50 or lower.

 

[Corky]

My pc speakers are dying gaf, what are the best budget speakers, say $50 or lower.

I don't know how much they go for now but a while ago you could buy logitech z-4s for that price.

 

[Roarer]

+ offset adds voltage when you increase the amount.
- offset decrease voltage when you increase the amount.

Using CPU Internal PLL, LLC and so on will also add voltages to total number. Thus, depending on what option you use, you may need to use + or - offset to get the correct voltage.

For example, to get 1.27V and all other the options disable, I will need to use +60 offset. If enable the other options at highest/max, I will need to use -40 offset. Better to use the first choice. The less things need to overclock the better long term.

From what I've understand, CPU internal PLL and LLC are meant to make your system more stable when you overclock. I take it your saying that's wrong and it is indeed better to leave it off, correct? Some guides I've read say that LLC is good for avoiding drops in CPU voltage under load, is this incorrect?

 

[Omiee]

Who here has a haf x or a corsair 600t.
im thinking of putting in some 80mm fans near the videocard, so how do i put them there?
Also what cases do people here have.
i love seeing what people do with their cases.
there are these 2 threads i love on overclock and another website of people showing their cases and the work they do with mods, fans and lighting etc.

lets get that going here as well.


POST PICS OF YOUR CASE.

 

[scogoth]

From what I've understand, CPU internal PLL and LLC are meant to make your system more stable when you overclock. I take it your saying that's wrong and it is indeed better to leave it off, correct? Some guides I've read say that LLC is good for avoiding drops in CPU voltage under load, is this incorrect?

CPU Phase-Locked Loop is the component that is the multiplier for the CPU off the base frequency(100MHz for Sandy Bridge). Load-line calibration directly alters the voltage to the CPU (vcore) to counter act vdroop (the voltage drop when a load is applied across the CPU). Both are used for enhance stability at high multipliers and high frequencies, respectively.