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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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cackhyena

Member
I asked before but didn't get a response. Is overclocking a complicated thing, or a matter of just clicking some options? I use my comp to work on also with digital painting programs so I want to ensure I'm not doing anything that might jeopardize the safety of my paintings.
 

Shambles

Member
knitoe said:
It's better to add another stick or remove one. Dual to single channel is a big performance hit unless you are doing something that requires >8GB ram.

The first two sticks should still be running dual channel, only the third stick will be running a single channel.
At least i'm pretty sure, it's been a while
 

knitoe

Member
cackhyena said:
I asked before but didn't get a response. Is overclocking a complicated thing, or a matter of just clicking some options? I use my comp to work on also with digital painting programs so I want to ensure I'm not doing anything that might jeopardize the safety of my paintings.
Overclocking requires changing some settings and stress testing to make sure it's stable. With sandy bridge, Intel made it much more easy to overclock manually compare to before, but it still requires some knowledge. Your other option is the 1 button / click overclocking tools from the MB manufacturer, but this usually leads to slower overclock and/or higher voltage = temps. In both cases, you should still stress test, using something like Prime95 for a few hours.
 

knitoe

Member
Shambles said:
The first two sticks should still be running dual channel, only the third stick will be running a single channel.
At least i'm pretty sure, it's been a while
Never been like that. Where you get that idea?
 

cackhyena

Member
knitoe said:
Overclocking requires changing some settings and stress testing to make sure it's stable. With sandy bridge, Intel made it much more easy to overclock manually compare to before, but it still requires some knowledge. Your other option is the 1 button / click overclocking tools from the MB manufacturer, but this usually leads to slower overclock and/or higher voltage = temps. In both cases, you should still stress test, using something like Prime95 for a few hours.
Thanks for the explanation. I'm not sure if I really want to bother with all of that. If i still want to occasionally play something as stellar looking as The Witcher 2, will a regular i5 be good enough? If so, what MB should I be looking at instead? If not, what's my next best option?

I thought the regular i5 is only like, 10 bucks less or something, anyway. Would it even matter? I dunno.
 

Shambles

Member
knitoe said:
Never been like that. Where you get that idea?

The nForce chipsets could. Since there is so much confusion on the subject I'd say if you're really interested in running three stick and still getting dual channel out of two the only reliable place to look is the motherboards manual.
 

RS4-

Member
Ugh, not sure why I can't OC my q6600. It's still stock at 9x266, so I've tried 333 and 400 and after I save to cmos and reboot, it'll start up then immediately shut down and everything is back to stock.

q6600 with Thermalright Ultra 120 cooler and a scythe fan
OCZ 2GB reapers
Gigabyte P35 DS3L
Corsair 620hx

m2HUr.jpg

4OCze.jpg


I guess I should start at 9x300 and see if things are stable. I know I should be able to do at least 3GHz. Right now my idle core temps are around 35
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Overclocking really is easy, it's just kind of time consuming. If the price difference is only $10 between the standard and k edition CPUs, just get the k one so you aren't limiting yourself down the road. Better to pay that $10 and at least have the option in case you decide to try it.

Edit: Odd that it wouldn't keep the changes. Are you sure you don't have something set to auto somewhere so it's resetting your clock speeds? I recall something like that in my bios when I was OCing.
 

cackhyena

Member
chaosblade said:
Overclocking really is easy, it's just kind of time consuming. If the price difference is only $10 between the standard and k edition CPUs, just get the k one so you aren't limiting yourself down the road. Better to pay that $10 and at least have the option in case you decide to try it.
Thank you, brother.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Fernicia said:
Been lurking here for a while and my money just came through. Would anyone in the know mind giving some advice/suggestions for my planned build?
pccomponenys.png

Budget is about 1000 euro. Is this any good?

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: I've been using a laptop for years unfortunately. (so no prev computer)
Budget: 900-1000 euro, Ireland
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920 x 1080 is the monitor I've planned to buy
SPECIFIC games: Crysis 1 and 2, Skyrim, Battlefield 3, Bad Company 2
Are reusing any parts?: Unfortunately I have no parts to reuse. Not even a monitor
When will you build?: Hopefully before the end of June. Planning on early/mid June right now.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)
Drop the Arctic and get a Corsair/Seasonic/Antec/XFX or whatever you have at your shop.
Corsair 750w/XFX 750w should be available.
cackhyena said:
Thanks for the explanation. I'm not sure if I really want to bother with all of that. If i still want to occasionally play something as stellar looking as The Witcher 2, will a regular i5 be good enough? If so, what MB should I be looking at instead? If not, what's my next best option?

I thought the regular i5 is only like, 10 bucks less or something, anyway. Would it even matter? I dunno.
Well a 2500 clocks to 3.7Ghz which is no slouch at all. You can go with a H67 board and save a little bit or money if you don't think you will bother with overclocking.
It's not like the Core 2's where you'd go from 2.5GHz to 3.6GHz or 3.0 to 3.8

It's 3.7 to 4.4 or so.
RS4- said:
Ugh, not sure why I can't OC my q6600. It's still stock at 9x266, so I've tried 333 and 400 and after I save to cmos and reboot, it'll start up then immediately shut down and everything is back to stock.

q6600 with Thermalright Ultra 120 cooler and a scythe fan
OCZ 2GB reapers
Gigabyte P35 DS3L
Corsair 620hx

m2HUr.jpg

4OCze.jpg


I guess I should start at 9x300 and see if things are stable. I know I should be able to do at least 3GHz. Right now my idle core temps are around 35
Feed it some more CPU voltage (1.3), bump the NB voltage a notch or two.
You might have a FSB gap as well (won't work at certain FSB speeds)
Also turn off C1E / Speedstep if you haven't.
 

knitoe

Member
cackhyena said:
Thanks for the explanation. I'm not sure if I really want to bother with all of that. If i still want to occasionally play something as stellar looking as The Witcher 2, will a regular i5 be good enough? If so, what MB should I be looking at instead? If not, what's my next best option?

I thought the regular i5 is only like, 10 bucks less or something, anyway. Would it even matter? I dunno.
Overclocking is a good way to increase performance at no extra cost. With sandy bridge CPU, it would be stupid not since it's pretty easy.

As for the Witcher 2, the game seems to be very CPU dependent. In my case, going from overclock 2600K 4.5GHz to 4.8GHz increase by 5fps. The fps would surely decrease by a lot if it were still running at stock 3.4GHz.
 

darkwing

Member
RS4- said:
Ugh, not sure why I can't OC my q6600. It's still stock at 9x266, so I've tried 333 and 400 and after I save to cmos and reboot, it'll start up then immediately shut down and everything is back to stock.

q6600 with Thermalright Ultra 120 cooler and a scythe fan
OCZ 2GB reapers
Gigabyte P35 DS3L
Corsair 620hx

I guess I should start at 9x300 and see if things are stable. I know I should be able to do at least 3GHz. Right now my idle core temps are around 35

did you add some vcore? be careful with this though
 

knitoe

Member
Shambles said:
The nForce chipsets could. Since there is so much confusion on the subject I'd say if you're really interested in running three stick and still getting dual channel out of two the only reliable place to look is the motherboards manual.
He's not using a nForce. Intel chipset has always been dual with 2/4 sticks and single with 1/3.
 

Shambles

Member
RS4- said:
Ugh, not sure why I can't OC my q6600. It's still stock at 9x266, so I've tried 333 and 400 and after I save to cmos and reboot, it'll start up then immediately shut down and everything is back to stock.

q6600 with Thermalright Ultra 120 cooler and a scythe fan
OCZ 2GB reapers
Gigabyte P35 DS3L
Corsair 620hx

I guess I should start at 9x300 and see if things are stable. I know I should be able to do at least 3GHz. Right now my idle core temps are around 35

Your motherboard is reverting to default settings after a failed overclock. Chances are the voltages on the CPU and possible north bridge needs to be increased. Often you can get away with 9x333 on stock voltages but not always the case. 9x400 is a nice round number for memory but most Q6600's can't quite hit 3.6Ghz. I wish mine did but I just can't get it stable :(
 

cackhyena

Member
knitoe said:
Overclocking is a good way to increase performance at no extra cost. With sandy bridge CPU, it would be stupid not since it's pretty easy.

As for the Witcher 2, the game seems to be very CPU dependent. In my case, going from overclock 2600K 4.5GHz to 4.8GHz increase by 5fps. The fps would surely decrease by a lot if it were still running at stock 3.4GHz.
I understand, but seeing as gaming on Ultra isn't a priority to me, I'm not needing the few extra fps. As I said, it's also my work PC, so being cautious wins out. Maybe it's ignorance on the matter, overall. I dunno.
 

knitoe

Member
cackhyena said:
I understand, but seeing as gaming on Ultra isn't a priority to me, I'm not needing the few extra fps. As I said, it's also my work PC, so being cautious wins out. Maybe it's ignorance on the matter, overall. I dunno.
If you stress test the overclock and it passes, no reason why it wouldn't be just as stable as stock. A 1+ GHz increase would make a big difference in performance.

Even if you don't plan on overclocking, I would still get a K CPU & P67/Z68 MB in case you change your mind later on and need the extra boost. Would be much cheaper than having to replace CPU and MB again.
 

knitoe

Member
Shambles said:
Unless I am reading it wrong, it's talking about having install a 4GB & a 8GB. 8GB will run in dual channel while the extra 4GB runs in single. But, is that the same as running 3 sticks? If anyone is running 4 sticks on sandy bridge, please remove one and tell us what CPUZ says for memory.
 

RS4-

Member
Thanks guys, I'll try 1.3 voltage since my VID is 1.2875 or something atm.

Ram timings, I should just keep at 555-15?
 

Shambles

Member
knitoe said:
Unless I am reading it wrong, it's talking about having install a 4GB & a 6/8GB. 8GB will run in dual channel while the extra 2/4GB runs in single. But, is that the same as running 3 sticks? If anyone is running 4 sticks on sandy bridge, please remove one and tell us what CPUZ says for memory.

Channel A/B is the two memory channels, not the dimm slots. When running three sticks the two lower sticks will operate dual channel on A+B while the third stick runs single channel on A. When running two sticks on dual and one stick on single it's not implying there are three channels, but that the one stick operates only on one on of the two memory controllers. If someone were to test it they would have to devise some way to use benchmarks as I don't believe programs like CPU-Z label each individual stick. Last time I tried anyways it just reported the system was running dual channels making some people think that all three sticks were running dual when really it was only 2/3 of them running on both channels. If someone was to pop out their 4th stick and it reported single than we would know for sure if that was the case for all of them. I have an AM3 system around that I could put 2/2/4 in but who knows if AMDs and Intels chipsets operate the same way.
 

cackhyena

Member
knitoe said:
If you stress test the overclock and it passes, no reason why it wouldn't be just as stable as stock. A 1+ GHz increase would make a big difference in performance.

Even if you don't plan on overclocking, I would still get a K CPU & P67/Z68 MB in case you change your mind later on and need the extra boost. Would be much cheaper than having to replace CPU and MB again.
Alright, thank you.
 

knitoe

Member
Shambles said:
Channel A/B is the two memory channels, not the dimm slots. When running three sticks the two lower sticks will operate dual channel on A+B while the third stick runs single channel on A. When running two sticks on dual and one stick on single it's not implying there are three channels, but that the one stick operates only on one on of the two memory controllers. If someone were to test it they would have to devise some way to use benchmarks as I don't believe programs like CPU-Z label each individual stick. Last time I tried anyways it just reported the system was running dual channels making some people think that all three sticks were running dual when really it was only 2/3 of them running on both channels. If someone was to pop out their 4th stick and it reported single than we would know for sure if that was the case for all of them. I have an AM3 system around that I could put 2/2/4 in but who knows if AMDs and Intels chipsets operate the same way.
User manual recommends 1/2/4 sticks. 3 isn't recommend for a reason.

And, if you have ram running at different speeds, it would seem logical that overall performance would be limited to the slowest.

I have never ram 3 sticks, but from what I have read/heard, it should say single channel in CPUZ. It would be clearer if someone can tell use.
 

Shambles

Member
knitoe said:
User manual recommends 1/2/4 sticks. 3 isn't recommend for a reason.

And, if you have ram running at different speeds, it would seem logical that overall performance would be limited to the slowest.

I have never ram 3 sticks, but from what I have read/heard, it should say single channel in CPUZ. It would be clearer if someone can tell use.

Recommended =/ required. I don't see why chipsets would be taking steps back from 5 years ago. Ram speeds never came into this question. Regardless memory speed isn't set by the memory, it's set by the system, memory always runs at the same speed within the same system.
 

knitoe

Member
Shambles said:
Recommended =/ required. I don't see why chipsets would be taking steps back from 5 years ago. Ram speeds never came into this question. Regardless memory speed isn't set by the memory, it's set by the system, memory always runs at the same speed within the same system.
To clarify, I meant data bandwidth, dual vs single.
 

mike23

Member
Overclocked my i5 2500k using the P8P67 Pro's auto overclock thing.

Y6IWj.png


Ran Prime95 for over an hour and it seems stable. Temperatures cap out at 67-69 with my iffy thermal compound install and my R3 without any added case fans.

One thing I noticed though, my bus speed isn't 100MHz, why is that? I'm pretty sure I didn't change that anywhere and it was like that before I did the auto-overclock.
 

knitoe

Member
mike23 said:
Overclocked my i5 2500k using the P8P67 Pro's auto overclock thing.

Y6IWj.png


Ran Prime95 for over an hour and it seems stable. Temperatures cap out at 67-69 with my iffy thermal compound install and my R3 without any added case fans.

One thing I noticed though, my bus speed isn't 100MHz, why is that? I'm pretty sure I didn't change that anywhere and it was like that before I did the auto-overclock.
When using auto overclocking tool, they tend to increase the BLK from 100 to 101-103. You should run prime95 longer, at least a few hours.
 

Zabojnik

Member
So it would seem that the SATA2 controller on my Gigabyte P67A-UD3P just died on me. I bought the motherboard about when the recalls were going on, but I decided to get it anyway. I did not expect the damn thing to die so soon. :) The motherboard is obviously still under warranty, but I *really* don't want to go through the whole process.

Anyhow, my system SSD and data HDD are both connected to the two SATA3 ports and I only need another SATA port for the DVD-RW, so I'm going for a SATA3 PCI-Express card. This one I can get for about 15 EUR: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJdENviWubE.

Should be alright, right?
 

Fernicia

Neo Member
Drop the Arctic and get a Corsair/Seasonic/Antec/XFX or whatever you have at your shop.
n/XFX 750w should be available.
Thanks for the advice. I revised my order after realising that ebuyer don't deliver to Ireland (I actually forgot to put in a graphics card last time. Silly me). Is there anything other than headphones, a keyboard and mouse that I need here?
revisedorder.png
 

RS4-

Member
Ok, I'm at 7x400 @ 1.35v. Prime95 on large? my temps are under 60c.

Going to run Witcher 2 again on various settings and see if I can get higher than the 10-15 fps I was getting in Flotsam lol.

Thanks for the help guys! I can't wait to upgrade to a 2500k or something in the next few months when prices drop (hopefully)

edit - will try 8x400 later, hopefully that's stable
 

scy

Member
So GAF, any recommendations for a good 27"-ish monitor that won't utterly decimate my wallet? Was hoping to stay like sub $500 on it. Or should I just go with like 3 decent 23" or something? Not that big of a fan of the multiple displays (if only for the damn bezel in the way) but I can be swayed I suppose.
 

TrounceX

Member
knitoe said:
When using auto overclocking tool, they tend to increase the BLK from 100 to 101-103. You should run prime95 longer, at least a few hours.

Oh so is increasing the BCLK is a bad thing?

I just let my asus p8p67 pro auto overclock my 2500k last night and looks like it increased the BCLK to 103. Running at 4.7 Ghz right now...
 

LogicStep

Member
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield 2.66GHz 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1366 130W Quad-Core Processor
RAM: OCZ Platinum 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Triple Channel Kit
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-EX58-DS4 LGA 1366 Intel X58 ATX Intel Motherboard
GPU: EVGA 896-P3-1267-AR GeForce GTX 260 Core 216 Superclocked Edition 896MB 448-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card

Budget: Not sure
Main Use: Gaming, I want to try the newest games.
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080 Don't think I will upgrade for a long time.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Newest games, for example Witcher 2, Diablo 3
Are reusing any parts?: Mostly everything.
When will you build?: I can wait a little.
Will you be overclocking?: No

So what I really want to ask is, looking at my current specs, I don't think I need to upgrade much. The only thing that sticks out to me would be the video card but I'm no expert. Does it look like I would need to upgrade anything else? I'm thinking of upgrading my card because I think its going bad so might as well get a new one.
 

Smokey

Member
black_vegeta said:
Anyone have a Z68 board yet? Any impressions?


When you putting your machine together?

After using my machine for a week or however long it's been I love it. The case is awesome (Silverstone FT02) when it's generally a very quiet machine. Only thing that really makes noise is the fan of the H70 but even then I don't really notice it unless I stop doing whatever I'm doing on the computer. The ASUS DCII 580 has been good to me as well. Very quiet. Even if I put fans on 50% or so it's still not noticeable during gameplay.

Oh and for those doubting SSD. Do it. Crazy speed for day to day tasks (using a Intel 320 160GB)
 
Smokey said:
When you putting your machine together?

After using my machine for a week or however long it's been I love it. The case is awesome (Silverstone FT02) when it's generally a very quiet machine. Only thing that really makes noise is the fan of the H70 but even then I don't really notice it unless I stop doing whatever I'm doing on the computer. The ASUS DCII 580 has been good to me as well. Very quiet. Even if I put fans on 50% or so it's still not noticeable during gameplay.

Oh and for those doubting SSD. Do it. Crazy speed for day to day tasks (using a Intel 320 160GB)

Probably in a month. My Intel 320 160GB SSD will be arriving today. I still have to get the monitor, motherboard, and gpu left to get.

I'm buying the mobo and gpu last, just in case anything happens.
 

Diseased Yak

Gold Member
Smokey said:
When you putting your machine together?

After using my machine for a week or however long it's been I love it. The case is awesome (Silverstone FT02) when it's generally a very quiet machine. Only thing that really makes noise is the fan of the H70 but even then I don't really notice it unless I stop doing whatever I'm doing on the computer. The ASUS DCII 580 has been good to me as well. Very quiet. Even if I put fans on 50% or so it's still not noticeable during gameplay.

Oh and for those doubting SSD. Do it. Crazy speed for day to day tasks (using a Intel 320 160GB)

What video card did you end up going with, Smokey? How do you like it?

Can't decide whether to get a GTX 580 or a AMD 6970 or maybe a lesser card...
 

Smokey

Member
Diseased Yak said:
What video card did you end up going with, Smokey? How do you like it?

Can't decide whether to get a GTX 580 or a AMD 6970 or maybe a lesser card...

Smokey said:
The ASUS DCII 580 has been good to me as well. Very quiet. Even if I put fans on 50% or so it's still not noticeable during gameplay.

I did mention it in my post :p

I love the card. Very quiet and obviously very powerful. If you have the cash I'd go with the one I got or one of the 3GB versions from the other manufacturers if you don't care as much about cooling/quietness.

I kind of want another one for SLI..but looking at my case..a number of inputs on the motherboard would be covered since the ASUS DCII is a triple slot GPU.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
Smokey said:
I did mention it in my post :p

I love the card. Very quiet and obviously very powerful. If you have the cash I'd go with the one I got or one of the 3GB versions from the other manufacturers if you don't care as much about cooling/quietness.

I kind of want another one for SLI..but looking at my case..a number of inputs on the motherboard would be covered since the ASUS DCII is a triple slot GPU.

It would cover the inputs, but I think it would be high enough to not interfere with them after things are plugged in. You can test it out with your first card to see how it fits on the bottom slot.

You're using the FT02, right?
 

Diseased Yak

Gold Member
Smokey said:
I did mention it in my post :p

I love the card. Very quiet and obviously very powerful. If you have the cash I'd go with the one I got or one of the 3GB versions from the other manufacturers if you don't care as much about cooling/quietness.

I kind of want another one for SLI..but looking at my case..a number of inputs on the motherboard would be covered since the ASUS DCII is a triple slot GPU.

Man, I'm blind! Thanks dude. Sounds good, I'll prob not worry with the 3GB versions, since I'm only doing 1080p.


Ok here's what I've come up with for a good overclocking play-thing of a box:

Diseased Yak said:
 

Smokey

Member
TheExodu5 said:
It would cover the inputs, but I think it would be high enough to not interfere with them after things are plugged in. You can test it out with your first card to see how it fits on the bottom slot.

You're using the FT02, right?

Just looking through the window it looks like the USB, HD Audio, and and a few other plugs would be covered. I'm pretty sure it would still work it would just take some re routing of the cabling.

I'm tempted though. I feel like that's the only area of my right that I'm missing!


Diseased Yak said:
Man, I'm blind! Thanks dude. Sounds good, I'll prob not worry with the 3GB versions, since I'm only doing 1080p.

If you have the option/money I'd go with the 580. Of course I am biased but hey.
 

knitoe

Member
TrounceX said:
Oh so is increasing the BCLK is a bad thing?

I just let my asus p8p67 pro auto overclock my 2500k last night and looks like it increased the BCLK to 103. Running at 4.7 Ghz right now...
Increasing BLK can cause instability. Better to use higher multiplier and keep BLK = 100 since 101-103 doesn't offer mch better performance. And, just because the auto tool set it does not mean it's a stable overclock. You should still run stress tests, like Prime95 for a few hours. While doing that, run HWmonitor to see the min/max temps and CPU voltages.
 
Smokey I'd just wait till the fall and see what single cards become available at this point. It's not like the 580 performs poorly on anything and unless you're going eyefiniti whats the point?
 

Smokey

Member
The Teachinator said:
Smokey I'd just wait till the fall and see what single cards become available at this point. It's not like the 580 performs poorly on anything and unless you're going eyefiniti whats the point?

There is no point. I'm fine with my machine as it is.

I just *feel* like SLI is the only thing I'm missing.
 
chaosblade said:
With a Phenom II and 6850, that PC will probably depreciate relatively fast. That's a pretty nice machine right now but you probably won't get much of anything when you resell it.

I'd see what kind of case, PSU, cooling and other more long term parts it has, since those could just be reused later instead of selling off the whole thing. If those are good, quality components then it might be worth it since you'll save some money next time you build and you'll have a nice PC until then.

And regarding Bulldozer, there are only a few things that could realistically happen.
1) Bulldozer is a disappointment, like the first Phenoms. In that case, they should be relatively cheap and drop even lower pretty fast.
2) Bulldozer is as good or slightly better than Sandy Bridge. It will probably be priced on par with Intel's current CPUs so you'll get similar or slightly better performance for the price.
3) Bulldozer blows away Sandy Bridge. Unlikely, but if it happens don't expect the processors to be cheap. AMD is only cheap right now because they don't have the hardware to sell for more. Back during the FX days, they had some pretty expensive parts.


Looks good for the price, I doubt you'll find any 1600 RAM for $75 or less.

Thanks for the thoughts. If the guy spent $1100 2 months ago and now he's trying to trade it for a $650 gaming laptop, it just goes to show you how fast the depreciation truly is. I'm selling the laptop for cash today and might build a gaming PC next month.
 
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