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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO
CPU: Intel i7-2600k
GPU: GTX580 (1536MB) ASUS 3 slot
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series (8GB)
PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold Series 1200W
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X
CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
Optical: SONY Black 12X BD-R Blu-ray Burner
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F4 (2TB)
SSD: Intel 510 120GB
Sound: Xonar DG ($30)
Ok, so I think this is my final build. Could somebody look over it and call out any obvious errors I may have missed? (parts not working together).
Plan to order in an hour or two once I get some finals thoughts, if any.
CPU: Intel i7-2600k
GPU: GTX580 (1536MB) ASUS 3 slot
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series (8GB)
PSU: Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold Series 1200W
Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X
CPU Fan: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
Optical: SONY Black 12X BD-R Blu-ray Burner
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F4 (2TB)
SSD: Intel 510 120GB
Sound: Xonar DG ($30)
Ok, so I think this is my final build. Could somebody look over it and call out any obvious errors I may have missed? (parts not working together).
Plan to order in an hour or two once I get some finals thoughts, if any.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Yeah, I edited that. Added that part of the reply real quick after I saw your post in the topic review. Like I said, not a bad buy, but not a huge upgrade. It would be noticeable in games where you would be CPU limited. Your 5770 isn't exactly a monster either, that would probably limit you more than a 965 (especially if you OC) in almost any game.demolitio said:
Is the 2600K worth the premium compared to the 2500K? He's going to be doing programming and dual-booting with Linux and Windows. Also, if he doesn't plan on overclocking ever, is it even worth getting the K and and a P motherboard?
Best graphics card? I think he should stay with Nvidia since it works better for Linux. Otherwise, if he was solely on Windows, I would probably suggest an AMD card.
Budget for the whole thing has to be $1000 or a little more.
Building a desktop for a friend.
Best graphics card? I think he should stay with Nvidia since it works better for Linux. Otherwise, if he was solely on Windows, I would probably suggest an AMD card.
Budget for the whole thing has to be $1000 or a little more.
Building a desktop for a friend.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
What exactly is he doing? For gaming and most purposes a 2500k would be more than good enough. 2600k just adds hyperthreading, so it's not worth it unless he's doing something that will take advantage of it.claviertekky said:
Edit:
Under $1000 you don't want to go with a 2600k, it's too expensive. And if he's never overclocking, it's not worth getting a k edition or p67 board, so you can save money there to put toward the video card. And the 560 Ti or 570 would be your best bet on the GPU, what you can get will depend on how you budget other components.
Prophet Steve
Member
From what I read on GAF, no. Only if you are doing a lot of things that are very CPU intensive and can make use of the many threads.claviertekky said:
I'm building a PC this fall but there is a one day sale at my local shop:
Zotac NVIDIA GT440 512MB Reg $88.00 Sale $73.50
Palit NVIDIA GTS450 1GB - Reg $128.00 Sale $108.00
EVGA NVIDIA GTX550 1GB - Reg $159.00 Sale $134.00
Zotac NVIDIA GTX550Ti 1GB Reg $168.00 Sale $136.00
Palit NVIDIA GTX560 2GB - Reg $262.00 Sale $219.00
HIS AMD 6950 2GB - Reg $374.00 Sale $322.00
EVGA NVIDIA GTX590 3GB Reg $775.00 Sale $710.00
HIS AMD 6950 2GB - Reg $288.00 Sale $250.00
HIS AMD 6970 2GB - Reg $369.00 Sale $330.00
Visiontek AMD 6970 2GB - Reg $399.00 Sale $355.00
HIS AMD 6990 4GB - Reg $759.00 Sale $690.00
Should I be jumping on any of these? Or should I expect better prices in OCT/NOV?
Zotac NVIDIA GT440 512MB Reg $88.00 Sale $73.50
Palit NVIDIA GTS450 1GB - Reg $128.00 Sale $108.00
EVGA NVIDIA GTX550 1GB - Reg $159.00 Sale $134.00
Zotac NVIDIA GTX550Ti 1GB Reg $168.00 Sale $136.00
Palit NVIDIA GTX560 2GB - Reg $262.00 Sale $219.00
HIS AMD 6950 2GB - Reg $374.00 Sale $322.00
EVGA NVIDIA GTX590 3GB Reg $775.00 Sale $710.00
HIS AMD 6950 2GB - Reg $288.00 Sale $250.00
HIS AMD 6970 2GB - Reg $369.00 Sale $330.00
Visiontek AMD 6970 2GB - Reg $399.00 Sale $355.00
HIS AMD 6990 4GB - Reg $759.00 Sale $690.00
Should I be jumping on any of these? Or should I expect better prices in OCT/NOV?
fin said:
Don't bother. I wouldn't recommend either dual GPU solution. Two GTX 570 or two 6970 are just as good, and will run cooler/quieter. You just need the case space to spare.
Considering your build time, I'm assuming you're likely building this for BF3. Wait until the beta is out so we can gauge performance.
Actually, even with the sales, those prices are fairly underwhelming.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Not sure about the bolded off the top of my head, but none of the other deals are any better than what you could typically get at newegg.fin said:
AMD/NVidia should have new GPUs by the end of the year, so you might prefer to wait until then.
evil solrac v3.0
Member
fin said:
that's not a deal, they are selling it above MSRP and "discounting" it to MSRP.
Yeah, a lot of cases have to sack HDD space for the 10.5" or 11" cards.scy said:Just to chime in as I have that card and one of the suggested cases (BitFenix Shinobi) ... the card is maybe half an inch too long, if that.
It's honestly not THAT big of a deal since the case has 9 bays but it's a bit of an annoyance if you plan to go for a Crossfire setup and you have multiple HDDs.
The GTX 560 Ti is 9.0" I think, so that would be fine. I might add that into the list as another option.
Ether_Snake said:
Just put in 1.5V DDR3 instead of 1.65V that you have. Looks good.Yami said:EDIT2: fixed
How's this sound? Trying to keep it around £750 if possible, so might cut the hard drive and optical drive as I still have some spares from some past builds. Any thoughts on the GPU?
I think it's a solid build... just need funds now!
How much is the market going to change in the next 3 months? Are Sandy Bridge CPU's still going to be a viable option? Thx GAF!
I'm not a big fan of the contained water coolers though. A CM 212 will cool just as good for cheaper.
CM Hyper 212+Aurarian said:
Zalmans are overpriced, but usually decently quiet and have a nice look. Also they will cut you.
Looks good. I think you will be very pleased.(._.) said:
Hazaro said:
What's the main difference between the voltage? Not many 1.5VDDR3 sticks on Ebuyer for a decent price, and don't want to risk getting Corsair Vengeance's in case the clearance of the heat spreaders interferes with the cpu heatsink.
Yeah was thinking that, but I've been wanting to try out the H series coolers at some point.
fin said:
Actually, with the dollar where it's at now, we often get deals that are much better than the US. NCIX had a pretty good sale last week. The GTX 570, for example, was $280.
If all else fails, NewEgg actually has fair prices that reflect the dollar. Most components were around 5% cheaper here than in the US when our dollar was around $1.05.
The only place we get screwed is the shipping.
claviertekky said:
Pay the little bit extra to have the ability to overclock. It's very hard to pass up nearly 50% in additional performance for the cost of the K model and a $30 CPU cooler.
If he absolutely adamantly refuses to ever overclock, then he can get an H67 board along with a regular 2500.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Well, I was typing out a reply but TheExodu5 beat me to it. The H67 boards are quite a bit cheaper than P67, even if the unlocked CPUs are pretty similar in price. If he's positive he's not overclocking, there's no sense in paying extra for features that won't be used. Could save $40+ to put toward the GPU or something.RS4- said:
1.65v can cause some problems. Definitely best to get some 1.5v sticks if at all possible.
That sounds pretty reasonable, though if you're overclocking you will probably need a better cooler... I don't know much about the newer coolers so you're better off asking the other guys here about that.Aurarian said:
---
I BSoD'd after two hours of Prime95 at 1.3v (1.288v effective) and 4.5GHz. Trying 1.31v (1.296v effective) now. My temperatures are rising really quick, though. I might need to dial back my clock by 100MHz if it's going to force me to bump up my voltage again.
Would you suggest waiting until closer to BF3's release in hopes that these new CPU's will be cheaper by then?chaosblade said:
I'm just not sure what to do right now. I see some Sandy Bridge ones that aren't too expensive so would you recommend any of those? What CPU and motherboard would you choose for the best bang for your buck if you were me?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
About average unless a newer stepping allows for much better clocks. My 955BE never went over 3.5GHz.Cory_t_ said:
Terrible luck on that chip. Running a Athlon II 440 at 3.5 right now until I upgrade to SB or Bulldozer later in the year.They probably won't be much cheaper by then. Some new models might shuffle the pricing, but that's about it.
If you can get a 965 AND a motherboard for $140 you probably aren't going to find a better deal than that. If $150 is your budget and you need a new board because the current one is dying, that might be the only option you have.
For the past week, Ive been hearing an odd, random "click" noise coming from my PC. I cant tell where exactly its coming from but it almost sounds like its on the very outside of the case. Could this just be one of the case fans? Any other ideas on what I might want to look at? All my checks are coming up clean.
MSI Afterburner
http://event.msi.com/vga/afterburner/download.htm
CaLe said:What application would you guys recommend in order to determine my GPUs' usage ?
I keep saying people in the Witcher 2 thread mention GPU usages, but I have no idea how to check mine.
Thanks
MSI Afterburner
http://event.msi.com/vga/afterburner/download.htm
Anything above 3.6 I'd say is fine. 3.8 is about what most top out at.Cory_t_ said:
MSI AfterburnerCaLe said:What application would you guys recommend in order to determine my GPUs' usage ?
I keep saying people in the Witcher 2 thread mention GPU usages, but I have no idea how to check mine.
Thanks
opticalmace
Member
Open up the case and see if you hear anything.Salaadin said:
Syphon Filter
Member
If i get the i5-2500k cpu is the DDR3 1600 RAM unnecessary,should i get the DDR3 1333 RAM instead?
chaosblade said:
Thanks for the help man. Now I just hope I can sell this Novint Falcon in time to do it. As far as modern games go, I can run all of them very well with the exception of the CPU intensive games like ArmA 2 so it should help there. I just want to be prepared for BF3 since I could run BC2 pretty well but some of the destruction would kill my framerate.
Then whenever I do get SSI and disability, I can replace the rest of the computer. It's been a long fight with them so far so I just hope it happens at this point. Apparently they think every young person is faking to get disability as if no one that's 22 can get these diseases, lol. Another thing that people abuse so it's harder for the people that really need it. :/
TouchMyBox
Member
Salaadin said:
Do you have your OS set to spin down your drives? I find windows 7 does this by default. The clicking noise could be your hard drive spinning back up when you're trying to access it.
TouchMyBox said:
I do but this is a different kind of click. Plus, the HDDs are mounted on the bottom of the case and this sound distinctly comes form the top of the case...meaning its either the RAM, CPU, CPU fan, or the top case fan.
I just heard it again and it does sound like the case fan but theres no way to turn that fan off without unplugging it from the PSU. I guess thats the next step.
paperspace
Member
My HDD makes a click noise and I'm not sure what to do. It began after I installed a SSD (AHCI-enabled) and when it clicks it stops for a second and won't read anything.
Is this related to AHCI or OS spinning down my drives, like TouchMyBox mentioned?
Is this related to AHCI or OS spinning down my drives, like TouchMyBox mentioned?
DennisK4 said:
It is. Though I don't really see the point of macro keys to begin with. Plus the Razer only offers MX Blue switches, which are probably the worst gaming switch. I'd spend a little more ($30 or so USD) and get a much better built keyboard with MX Brown/Black/Red switches.
Update on the friend computer build. Thanks for all the feedback so far.
Well, he changed his mind again for overclocking, so some new questions:
1. For the ASUS P8P67 boards, should I choose standard or should I get the Pro or Deluxe versions? I know I should avoid the LE version since its VRM is non-existent. He doesn't plan on using SLI, and I don't understand why a practical person would need dual giga-bit ports in the Pro/Deluxe/EVO versions.
2. We're trying to keep the build down to $1000. The GTX 570 is great and all, but it is the most expensive component in the build ($300 AR). Is there something comparable in the Nvidia lineup that is cheaper? No AMD please as this computer is also a Linux box, and Nvidia cards just work better with Linux.
3. What is with the double boot complaints with the ASUS boards lately?
Well, he changed his mind again for overclocking, so some new questions:
1. For the ASUS P8P67 boards, should I choose standard or should I get the Pro or Deluxe versions? I know I should avoid the LE version since its VRM is non-existent. He doesn't plan on using SLI, and I don't understand why a practical person would need dual giga-bit ports in the Pro/Deluxe/EVO versions.
2. We're trying to keep the build down to $1000. The GTX 570 is great and all, but it is the most expensive component in the build ($300 AR). Is there something comparable in the Nvidia lineup that is cheaper? No AMD please as this computer is also a Linux box, and Nvidia cards just work better with Linux.
3. What is with the double boot complaints with the ASUS boards lately?
Ajemsuhgao
Member
BoobPhysics101 said:
There's an nvidia card, faster than this particular card, for less than $190? Please show me this. I'll return the one I just bought and get it if you can find one.
Ajemsuhgao said:
He was referring to the GTX 560, which can be had for ~$200, and is 30% faster.
edit: stock GTX 560 /w 10 year warranty for $190:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130660
Nicer Asus model for $200:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121446
Unknown Soldier
Member
Zimbardo said:
My test suite for OC stability has been as follows for some years now:
(1) 24 hours of Prime95. Yes, 24 hours. If you're not 24 hours Prime stable, you're not REALLY stable!
(2) 24 hours of memtest86+
(3) 4 hours of looping 3DMark, any version you like
Recently I've also added 15 minutes of IntelBurnTest as a quick OC test too. If it survives 15 minutes of IBT I feel reasonably confident about doing the 24 hours of Prime95, reducing wasted time. I also like to use the eVGA OC Scanner's built-in artifact tester for about 15-30 minutes to make sure the videocard isn't having minor artifacting that I can't see with my eyes, because you can still kill a videocard slowly if you let it artifact on you even if you can't see it happening. Uh, you'll need at least one eVGA videocard in your machine for that. Otherwise you're SOL. :3
About Prime95: I set the Priority of Prime95 to 9 when I do the 24 hours run. If you set it to 10, you essentially lose the ability to control Windows since 10 is higher than everything but the kernel. At 9 I can also look at Real Temp or CoreTemp and it will update properly, at 10 both monitoring utilities lock up and won't work.
Yes, I have extremely demanding OC stability testing. However in my experience any machine which passes this suite has never crashed on me, even when running games that make other people's stock-clocked computers crash. I therefore generally regard it as authoritative, I can say with 99.99% accuracy that if your machine can survive my testing suite, your OC is stable for 24/7 everyday continuous use.
Izayoi said:
All Cherry switches are different, except for the fact that all of them actuate about halfway down the key travel (~2mm). Blues are fairly light (50g actuation) but they have a very sharp tactile point at actuation, and click like a high-pitched retractable pen. I find that makes double-tapping and especially spamming a single key (depending on what game you're playing) really annoying, especially since the release point of the Blues is actually higher than where the actuation point is, so the key needs to come up around another 1mm higher than the actuation before you can fire the switch again. Very loud keyboard in general.
Red and Black switches are linear. That means there is no tactile point anywhere in the keystroke. The key starts at a low force and simply increases as the key is pressed further. Very smooth, but you obviously do not have a tactile indication of when the switch triggered like you do with the Blues except to see on the screen that it did so. The only difference between Red and Black switches is the force of the spring; Reds are very light switches (45g to actuation) and Blacks are fairly heavy (65g). Quiet aside from the noise of the keys bottoming out when typing.
Brown switches are kind of like Red switches that have a small hump built into the stem. They're very light (also 45g), but like the Blue you get a tactile response around the actuation point. However it's very different than the Blue switch (which has an extra mechanism built over the stem to create the click noise) and kind of just feels like the key has spot of lightly gritty friction about halfway down the key stroke. Pretty subtle and many people claim that they don't really notice it when they are typing quickly (or very hard).
The only other switch really available right now is the MX Clear, which I think only Deck uses in their full-size keyboard. They're essentially a mix of Black and Brown design; heavier springs (60-70g) but with the hump that causes a tactile feeling similar to Brown. It's a bit more pronounced on the Clear stem than it is on the Brown stem. I don't think this switch is going to be seen much outside of Deck and older Cherry brands, as they are not popular switches.
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