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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
mrklaw said:
G-pink, worth looking at 1600 RAM? Price should be about the same but you'll sneak a tiny bit more out of that system.
Not really worth it.
keeblerdrow said:
Does anyone know a good modular 600W/650W PSU for around $60? Do they exist?
Antec BP550 is probably the closest you are going to get.
 

Snuggles

erotic butter maelstrom
two dumb questions from a computer noob:

1. How important is the motherboard to gaming performance? Does it have any relation to it? I just have the ASROCK $99.99 in my lineup.

2. I have the ASUS GTX 460 lined up for my video card. It seems to be the cheapest GTX 460 available, would I benefit from ordering one of the more expensive ones like the EVGA?
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Hazaro said:
A modular Seasonic 520 or 620w might save you some money.
.

modular:
£71- 520W Seasonic M12II-520, Modular, 80 PLUS Bronze, 87% Eff', SLI/CrossFire, EPS 12V, 120mm Fan

£79 - 620W Seasonic M12II-620 Bronze, Modular, 80 PLUS Bronze, 85% Eff', SLI/CrossFire, EPS 12V, 120mm Fan

non-modular:
£63 - 650W Corsair CMPSU-650TXUK TX, 86% Eff', SLI/CrossFire, 37dB, EPS 12V, 120mm Quiet Fan, Single Rail

Would the 520 seasonic really be more than enough for either a 560 or 6950? will be overclocking the CPU and if I get a 6950 will be flashing that to a 6970 hopefully.

is the difference just that non-modular has all the cables attached so it'll be a bit spaghetti like inside? Don't care what it looks like, not having a window or anything. Or does it have specific installation benefits - eg you can screw the PSU in , then connect cables directly to the motherboard/cards etc with no worry, then connect them one-by-one to the PSU -i.e much simpler to install? (anything making it easier would be a good thing)
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Snuggler said:
two dumb questions from a computer noob:

1. How important is the motherboard to gaming performance? Does it have any relation to it? I just have the ASROCK $99.99 in my lineup.

2. I have the ASUS GTX 460 lined up for my video card. It seems to be the cheapest GTX 460 available, would I benefit from ordering one of the more expensive ones like the EVGA?
1) Usually not much. Most people don't consider it at all
2) There is performance difference in 768mb vs 1gb. Other than that the EE is an exneral exhaust (card will run hotter, case will be cooler). eVGA's superclocked models have lifetime warranty.

Although at that price all of that is not worth it at all imo. The 768MB is hands down the best for the money for most.
mrklaw said:
modular:
£71- 520W Seasonic M12II-520, Modular, 80 PLUS Bronze, 87% Eff', SLI/CrossFire, EPS 12V, 120mm Fan

£79 - 620W Seasonic M12II-620 Bronze, Modular, 80 PLUS Bronze, 85% Eff', SLI/CrossFire, EPS 12V, 120mm Fan

non-modular:
£63 - 650W Corsair CMPSU-650TXUK TX, 86% Eff', SLI/CrossFire, 37dB, EPS 12V, 120mm Quiet Fan, Single Rail

Would the 520 seasonic really be more than enough for either a 560 or 6950? will be overclocking the CPU and if I get a 6950 will be flashing that to a 6970 hopefully.

is the difference just that non-modular has all the cables attached so it'll be a bit spaghetti like inside? Don't care what it looks like, not having a window or anything. Or does it have specific installation benefits - eg you can screw the PSU in , then connect cables directly to the motherboard/cards etc with no worry, then connect them one-by-one to the PSU -i.e much simpler to install? (anything making it easier would be a good thing)
520W more than enough. I'm running a 2500K + GTX 295 (2x GTX 260) + 3 fans + 2HDD + 8GB of RAM + a sound card. The Corsair 520W is built by Seasonic so I believe it's the same PSU using the same layout (not sure). Both very high quality. The TX is a bit less, but still good. Like I've said before the CX series I'd rather not suggest.
Modular just means you can plug in which cables you need.

The TX vs HX for Corsair has different build qualities.
The Seasonic I believe are the same units as modular.
 

AkIRA_22

Member
HOLY FUCKING SHIT!

THE 6990 IS HUGE!

11x0126h83amd.jpg


11x0126ub3amd.jpg
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Thanks for saving me money Hazaro. Quite often in some forums you'll get your builds/purchasing plans slowly pushed higher and higher. I guess its easy to spend other peoples' money.. Refreshing to have someone with clear, practical advice.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
my quest for knowledge continues (well my quest for shaving a few pounds off)

Wifi - whats the best option for a desktop? Does a PCI card give less latency/require less CPU overhead, or is a USB dongle just fine? Dongles seem to be cheaper, and I suppose you can use a USB extension cable to move them around for best signal?

or a bridge connected into the ethernet socket?

Just to complicate matters, I usually run my 'n' network on 5Ghz, as we have a lot of 2.4 nearby (including my own 'g' network)
 

iSimon

Member
Need advice on a new Sandy Bridge build. Looking to spend about $1600 (Australian dollars) and will be buying from PC Case Gear

Here's what I have so far.

CPU: i5 2500K - $279
Mobo: Gigabyte P67 UD5 - $299
GPU: Gigabyte HD6950 2GB - $339
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Silver Arrow - $109
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws XL F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL - $60
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB - $57
PSU: ???
Case: Silverstone FT02B - $249
Optical: Sony AD7240SGB - $35

So about $1400 without a PSU yet.


Thoughts?
I'm going to add a second 6950 & a SSD once I get some more money together. I really have no idea about what power supply I should buy though. Is 850W overkill or will that leave a nice buffer for future upgrades and overclocking? Is it worth buying an 80+ Gold PSU or is that just a load of marketing BS?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Dynamic3 said:
Anyone know about this?
1.65V should be ok, but I like to play it safe.

You can simply run your RAM at 1.5V and it should play nice. Might need to loosen the timings though. Run memtest86+ after to make sure that it is ok.
iSimon said:
Need advice on a new Sandy Bridge build. Looking to spend about $1600 (Australian dollars) and will be buying from PC Case Gear

Here's what I have so far.

CPU: i5 2500K - $279
Mobo: Gigabyte P67 UD5 - $299
GPU: Gigabyte HD6950 2GB - $339
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Silver Arrow - $109
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws XL F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL - $60
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB - $57
PSU: ???
Case: Silverstone FT02B - $249
Optical: Sony AD7240SGB - $35

So about $1400 without a PSU yet.


Thoughts?
I'm going to add a second 6950 & a SSD once I get some more money together. I really have no idea about what power supply I should buy though. Is 850W overkill or will that leave a nice buffer for future upgrades and overclocking? Is it worth buying an 80+ Gold PSU or is that just a load of marketing BS?
80+ Gold is absolutely not marketing BS. Those units are built extremely solid and run nearly at 90% efficiency.

Seasonic, Corsair, (and some others I can't think of) are the main ones. The X series and the AX / HX. 850w is good if you are looking for xfire later.

$110 on a CPU cooler is insanity. Please go with something cheaper if possible (I know it's AU but still). Same goes for the UD5. A UD3P or UD4 or ASUS Pro or ASROCK or MSI are all fine choices and don't cost more than your CPU.
 

MedIC86

Member
iSimon said:
Need advice on a new Sandy Bridge build. Looking to spend about $1600 (Australian dollars) and will be buying from PC Case Gear

Here's what I have so far.

CPU: i5 2500K - $279
Mobo: Gigabyte P67 UD5 - $299
GPU: Gigabyte HD6950 2GB - $339
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Silver Arrow - $109
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws XL F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL - $60
HDD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB - $57
PSU: ???
Case: Silverstone FT02B - $249
Optical: Sony AD7240SGB - $35

Ok why are you buying such an overkill expensive mobo ? the cheaper ones also have xfire etc, any really specific reason you need that 300$ mobo ? else i would get a cheaper one (around 100~$) also get a cheaper CPU Cooler (Scythe Mugen rev B) also, consider a 5870 instead of a 6950 can be worth it.
 

Mr. Hyde

Member
I am helping a friend who is trying to determine if a Intel Q6600 @ 3.0ghz would be a major bottleneck for a Geforce GTX 560. He has a Geforce 8800GTS G92 at the moment and wanted to upgrade it due to games like the Witcher 2 and Brink coming out. I am sure he can play it already but wants better performance in the few pc games he is looking forward to.
 

TheExodu5

Banned
MedIC86 said:
Ok why are you buying such an overkill expensive mobo ? the cheaper ones also have xfire etc, any really specific reason you need that 300$ mobo ? else i would get a cheaper one (around 100~$) also get a cheaper CPU Cooler (Scythe Mugen rev B) also, consider a 5870 instead of a 6950 can be worth it.

I'd recommend against the Mugen. While it is an amazing cooler for the money, it is massive and a bitch and a half to install, and seriously overkill for Sandy Bridge.
 

Salaadin

Member
TheExodu5 said:
I'd recommend against the Mugen. While it is an amazing cooler for the money, it is massive and a bitch and a half to install, and seriously overkill for Sandy Bridge.

I second this. I get great temps with it but I needed myself and one other person to help me install it and even then, it took 2 tries including the reapplication of AS5 because the first attempt was screwed. It wasnt fun at all.

I loathe the day that I upgrade my CPU because that means I have to remove it and then reinstall it :(
 

n0n44m

Member
Salaadin said:
I second this. I get great temps with it but I needed myself and one other person to help me install it and even then, it took 2 tries including the reapplication of AS5 because the first attempt was screwed. It wasnt fun at all.

I loathe the day that I upgrade my CPU because that means I have to remove it and then reinstall it :(

put motherboard on table

slide it towards the end, let 1 of the 4 holes hang over the edge

put screw through from bottom

rotate and repeat 3 times

now let cooler rest on the 4 screws, rotate over the edge again so you can screw in 1 of the screws slightly, then do this with the screw next to it

now hold motherboard+cooler vertical with the side of the 2 tightened screws on top and screw in the other 2 slightly

now put it upside down resting on the cooler, and tighten all 4 screws diagonally

easy as pie, my grandma could do it with 2 fingers up her nose etc
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU that was a pain in the ass
 

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
PC-GAF, I have an unusual question for you:

I'm finally putting together a new Sandy Bridge computer and I'm trying to scavenge as many pieces as I can from my old PC. My doubt would be if it's a good idea to keep my old Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS PCI card instead of using the integrated sound card of my future ASUS P8P67. I'm mostly concerned about gaming performance with 5.1 sound.

It's a very old card and Creative kind of blows when it comes to legacy drivers, so I'm wondering about my best option considering that I plan to use Windows 7. I could go and buy a new sound card, but I'm trying to keep it cheap.
 

Shambles

Member
Funky Papa said:
PC-GAF, I have an unusual question for you:

I'm finally putting together a new Sandy Bridge computer and I'm trying to scavenge as many pieces as I can from my old PC. My doubt would be if it's a good idea to keep my old Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS PCI card instead of using the integrated sound card of my future ASUS P8P67. I'm mostly concerned about gaming performance with 5.1 sound.

It's a very old card and Creative kind of blows when it comes to legacy drivers, so I'm wondering about my best option considering that I plan to use Windows 7. I could go and buy a new sound card, but I'm trying to keep it cheap.

Sound cards are getting less and less useful as times goes on. As more people move towards using digital connectors it doesn't matter what the source is. However if you're still using an analog system you might notice a difference but chances are you'll be happy enough with the on-board sound as dealing with Creative might not be worth the hassle. I'd try the SB first and use the on board as a backup. You can always buy another sound card down the road if you're really not happy but there's not much point to buying one beforehand.
 

Salaadin

Member
MedIC86 said:
Errr do you have guys have the B Rev, i dont know if its any different but my Mugen was installed in like 5 minutes :)

I have the B Rev. It was still a pain.
Admit it, you were born with 4 arms and 30 fingers. Its ok. I wont judge you.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
is that all motherboards, or just intel ones (doesn't sound like CPUs)

would be a pain if they don't recall for a while. Don't fancy building and then having to undo everything to return a motherboard.
 

rabhw

Member
Mother FUCKER.

I hope the return program is such that we can simply go to the retailer and not have to deal with an RMA process with the manufacturer. Intel should simply reimburse retailers for every board returned.

At the very least if we have to RMA I would hope they would advance-ship a working board BEFORE requiring me to send back the broken one. I can't be without a computer for a lengthy drawn-out RMA process that always occurs with motherboard companies.

How is this going to affect those that had their systems assembled by a site like ncix or ibuypower or whatever?
 

Solo

Member
rabhw said:
How is this going to affect those that had their systems assembled by a site like ncix or ibuypower or whatever?

I'd really like to know, as my 3 day old rig has a 2500k and was assembled by NCIX.

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU
 

ExMachina

Unconfirmed Member
Agh, crap crap crap... I have 3 Sata devices running, but I guess I can live without the optical drive for now. I'm putting my 2 HDDs on the Marvell ports for now.

Really hoping the exchange will happen at the retailer so I can just swing by Microcenter.
 

knitoe

Member
The flawed chipset only started shipping Jan 9th so I am going to assume my launched day Asus Deluxe is not affected, but I'll still wait for Asus response and see.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
So I got this from an Intel rep:

From Intel;

"This is an issue with the 6 series chipset (Cougar Point) impacting SATA ports 2-5. If you are using ports 0 and 1 there are no issues. The issue was root caused and a new stepping (B2) is coming end of March.

If you have purchased 6 series platforms, call your supplier to return them (if you are intending to use SATA ports 2-5) All the ODM’s and OEM’s are notified and are being notified and they can give you more detail (or you can use me if you have more questions)

I will keep you posted with any new information I get on this chipset."

Late March early April fuuuuuuuuuck
 

xero273

Member
K.Jack said:
So I got this from an Intel rep:

From Intel;

"This is an issue with the 6 series chipset (Cougar Point) impacting SATA ports 2-5. If you are using ports 0 and 1 there are no issues. The issue was root caused and a new stepping (B2) is coming end of March.

If you have purchased 6 series platforms, call your supplier to return them (if you are intending to use SATA ports 2-5) All the ODM’s and OEM’s are notified and are being notified and they can give you more detail (or you can use me if you have more questions)

I will keep you posted with any new information I get on this chipset."

Late March early April fuuuuuuuuuck

might as well post this in the other thread and the one in off topic.
 

n0n44m

Member
knitoe said:
The flawed chipset only started shipping Jan 9th so I am going to assume my launched day Asus Deluxe is not affected, but I'll still wait for Asus response and see.

that's the commercial release date of Sandy Bridge ....

I'm actually using ports 2 to 5 for hdds, eSata dock and DVD :/

interesting to see how manufacturers/retailers will deal with this :\
 

Funky Papa

FUNK-Y-PPA-4
K.Jack said:
So I got this from an Intel rep:

From Intel;

"This is an issue with the 6 series chipset (Cougar Point) impacting SATA ports 2-5. If you are using ports 0 and 1 there are no issues. The issue was root caused and a new stepping (B2) is coming end of March.

If you have purchased 6 series platforms, call your supplier to return them (if you are intending to use SATA ports 2-5) All the ODM’s and OEM’s are notified and are being notified and they can give you more detail (or you can use me if you have more questions)

I will keep you posted with any new information I get on this chipset."

Late March early April fuuuuuuuuuck
Wait, what? What does this mean? No safe mobos on sale until early April? God, please, somebody tell me I'm reading that wrong.
 

K.Jack

Knowledge is power, guard it well
xero273 said:
might as well post this in the other thread and the one in off topic.
Done.
Funky Papa said:
Wait, what? What does this mean? No safe mobos on sale until early April? God, please, somebody tell me I'm reading that wrong.
Unfortunately, according to my sauces, you're reading it correctly.

dat sick ETA
 

Solo

Member
We need some info as to the extent of damage this can cause on motherboards. Like, should I not be using my comp at all?
 

xero273

Member
Dynamic3 said:
So the issue is with the sata ports on p67/h67 mobos?

yes.

too late for me. already ordered my p8p67. I can use the two marvell ports. wonder if it affects the sata 3 gb ports on the board.
 

n0n44m

Member
Dynamic3 said:
So the issue is with the sata ports on p67/h67 mobos?

the regular SATA ports from the Intel chipset (high speed port 0 and 1 are unaffected apparently)

lots of motherboards also have additional SATA ports from other chipsets, but all p67 boards should have the 6 Intel ports, of which the 4 regular ones are "vulnerable"
 

Vyer

Member
Well, shit. I guess I got lucky Microcenter ran out of those boards after all. March/Early April? Damn it.

Just when I was getting ready to get back into PC gaming. Guess I'll just finish buying everything else and wait it out.
 
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