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[Nemo]

Is AMD still king of silently cooled cards? I see stuff like the 6770 for less than 80 bucks, I can't find comparable Nvidia cards

Do they underclock these cards as well? I see the AMD one used 1GB of GDDR3 instead of 512MB of GDDR5 that's on the reference, how much of a difference would this be? I hear the jury is still out on heavy gaming with silent cards also. I really want to get one for my HTPC

 

[mug]

Is AMD still king of silently cooled cards? I see stuff like the 6770 for less than 80 bucks, I can't find comparable Nvidia cards

Do they underclock these cards as well? I see the AMD one used 1GB of GDDR3 instead of 512MB of GDDR5 that's on the reference, how much of a difference would this be? I hear the jury is still out on heavy gaming with silent cards also. I really want to get one for my HTPC

512MB of DDR5 will perform better than 1GB of DDR3.

 

[Nemo]

512MB of DDR5 will perform better than 1GB of DDR3.

That's what I thought, how much difference can I expect in terms of FPS? Or does it factor more things like resolution and detail

 

[mug]

That's what I thought, how much difference can I expect in terms of FPS? Or does it factor more things like resolution and detail

I know it's not the 6770 for comparison but the 5570 displays a notable performance increase with the speed of memory. It really depends on the card and res as well.

 

[Nemo]

I know it's not the 6770 for comparison but the 5570 displays a notable performance increase with the speed of memory. It really depends on the card and res as well.

 

[mkenyon]

Just requoting myself.

Yeah, it's like SATA. Just more bandwidth, same technology. It's always compatible. You could even use a PCI-E 3.0 card (which doesnt exist) in a PCI-E 1.0 slot.

 

[JWong]

What about the Crucial M4 256GB?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148443

Hmmm, well if it's not Intel 320 reliability, how does it compare against the Vertex 3 240gb, which I think you bought.

 

[Broadbandito]

so I feel pretty solid with my oc and my build. prime85 after 8 hours still running strong. Would it be worth it to try and overclock my HIS IceQ X Turbo H695QNT2G2M Radeon HD 6950 2GB and/or my 16 gbs of G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

Also, I set up a similar build for my buddy yesterday and I have ran into a snag.



I ran intel burn test with this system and it was showing 98 degrees C. Thats almost 20 degrees more than what it should be at. His room that he has it in is a bit warmer but I am kind of worried by that test. I set up the oc to 4.5 ghz like I did mine. Should I think about RMA'ing his processor?

Bueller?

 

[TheExodu5]

Try reapplying the thermal paste. That definitely doesn't sound right.

Put a small vertical line (less than a grain of rice) on the CPU, and push the cooler down on it firmly, and tighten the screws.

 

[Broadbandito]

Try reapplying the thermal paste. That definitely doesn't sound right.

Put a small vertical line (less than a grain of rice) on the CPU, and push the cooler down on it firmly, and tighten the screws.

When I did the the thermal paste on mine I went a little crazy. I must be dumb cause I was having a hard time with the hyper 212 + installation. I ended up watching videos and I saw them not go so crazy with thermal paste like I did (I had a thin layer over the entire bottom square of the heatsink on mine)

I need to order more thermal paste and I'll try and reseat it.

Would you recommend getting thermal material remover and and surface purifier and cleaning it before reapplying?

 

[xir]

Weird question, but closest thread i can think of.

Where can you physically purchase a copy of Windows 7 Premium? BestBuy only has home and upgrades, and then I went online to check store inventory. They don't carry it. Then I checked RadioShack....maybe Staples? Trying to get bootcamp running on my iMac.

edit yep Staples. Sorry. Uh, 27 inch monitors look great.

 

[Subtervotion]

I just bought all the components to build a new PC and I touched my case and felt a static shock. Did I fuck up?

The case was fresh out of the box, I never plugged it in. I ONLY touched the case.

 

[mkenyon]

I just bought all the components to build a new PC and I touched my case and felt a static shock. Did I fuck up?

The case was fresh out of the box, I never plugged it in. I ONLY touched the case.

The case is the second best place to discharge static, next to the PSU. You're golden.

 

[chaosblade]

I've seen some recommendations that actually tell you to kind of lean your arms on the case as you're working in it to discharge static.

Weird question, but closest thread i can think of.

Where can you physically purchase a copy of Windows 7 Premium? BestBuy only has home and upgrades, and then I went online to check store inventory. They don't carry it. Then I checked RadioShack....maybe Staples? Trying to get bootcamp running on my iMac.

edit yep Staples. Sorry. Uh, 27 inch monitors look great.

Most places only sell Home Premium and not Professional because users generally don't need features like an XP VM (compatibility mode works fine most of the time), network backups, and whatever else it adds.

 

[Subtervotion]

The case is the second best place to discharge static, next to the PSU. You're golden.

Thank you, I was really worried.

 

[Smokey]

Welp ordered extensions for my PSU. Be here on Tuesday and I hope to fuck that I can finish putting this back together on that day.

 

[mkenyon]

Welp ordered extensions for my PSU. Be here on Tuesday and I hope to fuck that I can finish putting this back together on that day.

Did you try routing them below the actual motherboard (not tray)? I had to do that with my Seasonic in my 600T with the EPS power cable.

 

[·feist·]

For Soi-Fong, and anyone else looking for a moderately-priced enclosure as a basis for a quiet, but well cooled build, NCIX US has the Antec P280 for $112.30 shipped. That's compared to $140 + $20 shipping at Newegg, or $129 + $19 shipping at Amazon.

It's been in the case recommendations for months now (yes, even before release).

With a Corsair H100 240mm rad:
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=949345&page=118

Pics & info:
Antec P280 - Performance One Series
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1229-page1.html
http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=NzA0NTA0&lan=us
http://www.links.co.jp/items/antec-case/p280.html


Videos:
ｐ280
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPDMRPLMsSI
Antec P280 Case Review - PC Perspective
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCE7EKHHl_4
Antec P280 Silent Case Unboxing & First Look Linus Tech Tips
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIwvek4tDf8

via

 

[PGamer]

Crosspost from the tech support thread:

I've had this issue ever since building my PC. My internal hard drives are showing up in the "Safely Remove Hardware Media and Eject Media" option. As far as I can tell this isn't really causing a problem but I don't like having the notification always there and it takes me a bit longer to find what to eject when I actually have something external plugged in. If anyone knows how to fix this or knows if I've setup something wrong any help would be appreciated.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

 

[MidgarBlowedUp]

Very sexy.
I think this will be my next case.

 

[chaosblade]

Crosspost from the tech support thread:

I've had this issue ever since building my PC. My internal hard drives are showing up in the "Safely Remove Hardware Media and Eject Media" option. As far as I can tell this isn't really causing a problem but I don't like having the notification always there and it takes me a bit longer to find what to eject when I actually have something external plugged in. If anyone knows how to fix this or knows if I've setup something wrong any help would be appreciated.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

I think that appears there when your SATA ports are set to AHCI mode. No idea if you can take those off of there.

 

[n0n44m]

Crosspost from the tech support thread:

I've had this issue ever since building my PC. My internal hard drives are showing up in the "Safely Remove Hardware Media and Eject Media" option. As far as I can tell this isn't really causing a problem but I don't like having the notification always there and it takes me a bit longer to find what to eject when I actually have something external plugged in. If anyone knows how to fix this or knows if I've setup something wrong any help would be appreciated.

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about:

If you're using an Asus P8* series motherboard and have them connected to the P67 chipset's SATA ports, you can disable hotswapping for each of the individual ports in the bios which will stop them from showing up there. Could be the same for other brands of P67 boards don't know for sure

If you're using the marvell controller or whatever is on my P8P67 PRO board (Intel Sata3 ports died) then dealwithit.gif as apparantly it can be turned off in the Device Manager -> Driver settings but it just doesn't work, no matter what driver I try

 

[PGamer]

If you're using an Asus P8* series motherboard and have them connected to the P67 chipset's SATA ports, you can disable hotswapping for each of the individual ports in the bios which will stop them from showing up there. Could be the same for other brands of P67 boards don't know for sure

If you're using the marvell controller or whatever is on my P8P67 PRO board (Intel Sata3 ports died) then dealwithit.gif as apparantly it can be turned off in the Device Manager -> Driver settings but it just doesn't work, no matter what driver I try

I'm using an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe REV 3.0. I guess I'll check out the BIOS.

 

[crisdecuba]

Alright, so something weird has been happening the past month or so...

When I'm playing Starcraft II, my computer will just shut down randomly.

I usually think that's a CPU overheating thing, but none of my temps have gone over 60 C based on CoreTemp.

And then Windows has recorded an error with my graphics card (Nvidia Graphics Drivers has stopped working 3 times, last occurring on...) but the date it says it last occurred doesn't correlate with the last time it happened to me which was earlier this week. And the steps it suggests to fix the issue dont lead anywhere.

I have a Core i7 950, and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460. I have the latest drivers for my GPU installed, and I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1.

Any ideas as to what could be causing this or what to do to stop it?? :-(

 

[PGamer]

I'm using an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe REV 3.0. I guess I'll check out the BIOS.

Well I looked into BIOS and all the Hot Swap settings were already set to disabled. I don't really know what to do now.

 

[lordy88]

My apologies if this is a completely n00b question, but I have to ask.

I recently got my self 2x 4GB Ram to upgrade my PC from 4GB To 8GB Ram. When I swapped out the ram in my desktop, I noticed that there are two black slots right next to the two blue slots i currently had my 2x 2GB Ram sticks located in.

Can I put my old 2GB sticks of ram into those two black slots and get myself 12GB of ram or is that for something else? I'm using Windows 7 64 and this motherboard:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130275

Thanks guys for all your help!

 

[n0n44m]

Well I looked into BIOS and all the Hot Swap settings were already set to disabled. I don't really know what to do now.

are you sure they are connected to the Intel ports on the motherboard? Because I'm pretty 100% certain that disabling Hot Swap on those ports solved it for me

edit: searching for p8p67, hotswap, remove hardware on google gives a ton of results lol ... maybe I was just lucky anyway there are plenty other people here with Asus p67/z68 boards maybe they can help

Not 100% sure what you mean by this. What do you mean by "Intel ports"?

each board with a p67 chipset has 6 Intel SATA ports -> 4 of which SATA3 and 2 SATA6

in addition there *can* be ports which use other additional chipsets which the motherboard manufacturer has added for all sorts of reasons (more ports usually )

most Asus P8*6* boards have an extra Marvell storage controller with 2 or 4 additional SATA6 ports , but these ports aren't controlled by the hotswap settings in the bios as those settings only apply to the "native" Intel ports

 

[PGamer]

are you sure they are connected to the Intel ports on the motherboard? Because I'm pretty 100% certain that disabling Hot Swap on those ports solved it for me

Not 100% sure what you mean by this. What do you mean by "Intel ports"?

 

[DiabolicalBagel]

Not 100% sure what you mean by this. What do you mean by "Intel ports"?

The grey, and light blue sata ports use an Intel controller, the dark blue ones use a Marvell controller.

Edit: Yeah, and what he said. Only the Intel ones are affected by the hotswap settings.

 

[PGamer]

each board with a p67 chipset has 6 Intel SATA ports -> 4 of which SATA3 and 2 SATA6

in addition there *can* be ports which use other additional chipsets which the motherboard manufacturer has added for all sorts of reasons (more ports usually )

most Asus P8*6* boards have an extra Marvell storage controller with 2 or 4 additional SATA6 ports , but these ports aren't controlled by the hotswap settings in the bios as those settings only apply to the "native" Intel ports

The grey, and light blue sata ports use an Intel controller, the dark blue ones use a Marvell controller.

Edit: Yeah, and what he said. Only the Intel ones are affected by the hotswap settings.

Okay, I think that seems to be the issue. I was under the impression that all the Intel ports were 3.0 Gb/s so I've always had my main drives plugged into the navy blue Marvell ports instead. I guess I'll try switching them from the navy blue ports to the grey Intel ones. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[knitoe]

Okay, I think that seems to be the issue. I was under the impression that all the Intel ports were 3.0 Gb/s so I've always had my main drives plugged into the navy blue Marvell ports instead. I guess I'll try switching them from the navy blue ports to the grey Intel ones. Thanks for the help guys.

Sata ports:

grey = Intel 6gb/s
light blue = 3gb/s
dark blue = marvell 6gb/s

Use the intel ports because the marvell ports are shitty.

 

[PGamer]

Sata ports:

grey = Intel 6gb/s
light blue = 3gb/s
dark blue = marvell 6gb/s

Use the intel ports because the marvell ports are shitty.

Yup, got that all figured out now after looking at my mobo's manual. Switched to the Intel ports and things seem to be working fine and dandy now. Still I've got a couple of questions about this:

1. The drives are gone from the remove hardware menu but it still lists the Marvell ATA Device. I tried ejecting it to see if I could get the tray icon gone and that worked but why is it still there in the first place and is there a way to get rid of it?

2. What differences if any should I see from using the Intel ports? Is is just a case of Intel having better drivers or something else? After I switched the ports it seemed like my PC booted a bit faster but I have no idea if that's really the case or not.

 

[brotkasten]

Alright, I'm asking again, because I'm still not sure.

What board should I get for overclocking a 2500k? Is the ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z still the best you can get for under 150?

The fact that S2011 boards are popping up really annoys me.

 

[Nemo]

Alright, I'm asking again, because I'm still not sure.

What board should I get for overclocking a 2500k? Is the ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z still the best you can get for under 150?

The fact that S2011 boards are popping up really annoys me.

Any Z68 should do AFAIK, just look for other features you want in a mobo

 

[knitoe]

Yup, got that all figured out now after looking at my mobo's manual. Switched to the Intel ports and things seem to be working fine and dandy now. Still I've got a couple of questions about this:

1. The drives are gone from the remove hardware menu but it still lists the Marvell ATA Device. I tried ejecting it to see if I could get the tray icon gone and that worked but why is it still there in the first place and is there a way to get rid of it?

2. What differences if any should I see from using the Intel ports? Is is just a case of Intel having better drivers or something else? After I switched the ports it seemed like my PC booted a bit faster but I have no idea if that's really the case or not.

Disable the marvell controller in the bios. It will improve boot time since it won't showup on startup anymore.

And the reason it's faster / better, they are higher quality controllers. Marvells are cheaper and slower comparably.

 

[mkenyon]

Alright, I'm asking again, because I'm still not sure.

What board should I get for overclocking a 2500k? Is the ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z still the best you can get for under 150?

The fact that S2011 boards are popping up really annoys me.

For the price, the Gene-Z is the best overclocker. However, you can mostly achieve similar results with just about any P67 or Z68 boards in the $130-200 range. To really make use of a high OC in the 4.8-5.0 range 24/7, you need a high end cooler or a custom loop.

You also have PCI-E slots that have no space between them if you are looking for a dual card setup. If you use both PCI-E slots with cards, you get no other expansion slots. If, like me, you don't have much of a use for expansion slots other than for GPU's, it's not really an issue.

What is it about the 2011 boards popping up that annoys you?

And the reason it's faster / better, they are higher quality controllers. Marvells are cheaper and slower comparably.

Yep. Not a huge deal though if your drives can't max out the transfer rate anyway.

 

[PGamer]

Disable the marvell controller in the bios. It will improve boot time since it won't showup on startup anymore.

And the reason it's faster / better, they are higher quality controllers. Marvells are cheaper and slower comparably.

Oh, awesome. I'll go try that out.

Yep. Not a huge deal though if your drives can't max out the transfer rate anyway.

Well I do have a 6 Gb/s SSD so it might make a difference.

 

[ombz]

My apologies if this is a completely n00b question, but I have to ask.

I recently got my self 2x 4GB Ram to upgrade my PC from 4GB To 8GB Ram. When I swapped out the ram in my desktop, I noticed that there are two black slots right next to the two blue slots i currently had my 2x 2GB Ram sticks located in.

Can I put my old 2GB sticks of ram into those two black slots and get myself 12GB of ram or is that for something else? I'm using Windows 7 64 and this motherboard:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130275

Thanks guys for all your help!

I don't have the same board, but I did the same exact thing and my computer recognized the 12gb just fine (I made sure to put the 2x2 and 2x4 in the same respective colors and change the timing appropriately.)

 

[lordy88]

I don't have the same board, but I did the same exact thing and my computer recognized the 12gb just fine (I made sure to put the 2x2 and 2x4 in the same respective colors and change the timing appropriately.)

I'm all the way with you until you said "change the timing appropriately". How would I do that?

Edit: They are both 1600 MHZ if that matters.

 

[MrBig]

This may not be specifically appropriate to this thread, but I thought I'd ask it here

Looking to get an android tablet that has pressure sensitive pen support and at least a 10" screen. Going to be using it for drawing/painting with the autodesk/adobe apps, and notetaking. Is the Lenovo thinkpad the best option? Looking over the specs and reviews it seems to be an average tablet with no frills beyond the pen.
It's hard to find info on actual products that are currently available so I'd like some input from others.

 

[ombz]

I'm all the way with you until you said "change the timing appropriately". How would I do that?

Edit: They are both 1600 MHZ if that matters.

The 2x2 ram I had was rated at 8-8-8-24 (I'm not an expert so I don't really know what that means) and the 2x4 was 9-9-9-24 so I had to change the timing in the bios to 9-9-9-24.

I hope some who knows what they're talking about can explain it properly.

 

[Soi-Fong]

For Soi-Fong, and anyone else looking for a moderately-priced enclosure as a basis for a quiet, but well cooled build, NCIX US has the Antec P280 for $112.30 shipped. That's compared to $140 + $20 shipping at Newegg, or $129 + $19 shipping at Amazon.

It's been in the case recommendations for months now (yes, even before release).

With a Corsair H100 240mm rad:
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=949345&page=118

Pics & info:
Antec P280 - Performance One Series
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1229-page1.html
http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=NzA0NTA0&lan=us
http://www.links.co.jp/items/antec-case/p280.html


Videos:
ｐ280
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPDMRPLMsSI
Antec P280 Case Review - PC Perspective
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCE7EKHHl_4
Antec P280 Silent Case Unboxing & First Look Linus Tech Tips
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIwvek4tDf8

via

Thank you feist for the suggestion! I was dead-set on the Arc Midi and now I'm having a hard time deciding again. lol
My only question is if it can fit a push/pull config with the H100.

It seems to do a pretty good job with cooling, but I'm worried about the cooling on grafix cards that run very hot.

 

[JVIDICAN]

Any opinions on using offset voltage mode for CPU voltage?
I'm using it now, and as far as I can tell it works fine, but I'd like to make sure I'm not slowly killing the CPU.

i5 2500k
1.008V or 1.020V at 1.6GHz (Speed step)
1.298V or 1.308V @ 4.5GHz

 

[IceIpor]

Alright, so something weird has been happening the past month or so...

When I'm playing Starcraft II, my computer will just shut down randomly.

I usually think that's a CPU overheating thing, but none of my temps have gone over 60 C based on CoreTemp.

And then Windows has recorded an error with my graphics card (Nvidia Graphics Drivers has stopped working 3 times, last occurring on...) but the date it says it last occurred doesn't correlate with the last time it happened to me which was earlier this week. And the steps it suggests to fix the issue dont lead anywhere.

I have a Core i7 950, and NVIDIA GeForce GTX 460. I have the latest drivers for my GPU installed, and I'm running Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1.

Any ideas as to what could be causing this or what to do to stop it?? :-(

Maybe your problem is related to this?

http://www.dailytech.com/Hot+Starcr...lizzard+Issues+Temporary+Fix/article19224.htm

 

[RS4-]

Any opinions on using offset voltage mode for CPU voltage?
I'm using it now, and as far as I can tell it works fine, but I'd like to make sure I'm not slowly killing the CPU.

i5 2500k
1.008V or 1.020V at 1.6GHz (Speed step)
1.298V or 1.308V @ 4.5GHz

That's fine. I use the same when I do 4.5

 

[Piercedveil]

Will any RAM work with a 2500k as long as it's 1.5V? I just realized I could swap out my 4 GB of RAM until I decide to replace it with 8 GB, if I choose to and am able to do so.

 

[mkenyon]

Will any RAM work with a 2500k as long as it's 1.5V? I just realized I could swap out my 4 GB of RAM until I decide to replace it with 8 GB, if I choose to and am able to do so.

If it's DDR3, yep. Some higher voltage RAM works, but it can be a crapshoot. My Crucial Smart Tracer wouldn't allow my system to boot, but works fine on an AMD rig I recently handed down.

 

[Piercedveil]

If it's DDR3, yep. Some higher voltage RAM works, but it can be a crapshoot. My Crucial Smart Tracer wouldn't allow my system to boot, but works fine on an AMD rig I recently handed down.

Yep, it's DDR3. Might as well hold on to it then since I don't necessarily need a RAM upgrade yet.

 

[Syphon Filter]

looking into getting a bigger monitor. Currently on a 21.5 inch monitor and looking at a 24 inch. Will everything look smaller though?

 

[vaelic]

If it's DDR3, yep. Some higher voltage RAM works, but it can be a crapshoot. My Crucial Smart Tracer wouldn't allow my system to boot, but works fine on an AMD rig I recently handed down.

curious then, how come everyone says to get 1.5v ram. whats so good about 1.5?