Oh I misunderstood kinda. So you want to make sure that going down in voltage isn't still locked like rising it. Wouldn't they be locked either way?
You can tell I still got waaays to go/learn.
Oh, I get it now.
You're asking them if you can raise voltage in a way that doesn't threaten your warranty
Or at least, that has to be what their customer service is thinking. Lowering the voltages won't reduce the noise/temp too much, as it's not exactly overvolted heavily at stock.
You could always flash the BIOS.
MPower is so gorgeous. The color combination is professional while remaining striking. As I was building Mr Pocket's PC, I was feeling a big time urge to do an MPower/Lighting/MPower RAM build. I'm a sucker for aesthetics though, and am so screwed up in the head that I view a $200 motherboard as inexpensive.
Seriously, I would not wish upon my worst enemy ever to deal with Sapphire's tech support. They are just awful.
Yeah I could but I think I'm still gonna go with the RMA. I got a fractal r4 and silent fans because I wanted to build a quiet high end gaming PC and the Vapor X isnt exactly quiet (it's inaudible at a certain point at 45% but beyond it gets quite noisy) and I tried so many ways to keep temps low but its no good. So I think I might get the gigabyte as its a pretty silent card.
Yeah it's a great looking mobo. Should look good in my black R4.
I didn't need to read this since I have a Sapphire 7970 on the way :/
Change fan profile? You won't get a super high overclock and sub 60 temps, but you could get a much more silent computer.
Yeah, that's what I was going to suggest. You don't need to keep it super cool if you aren't pushing a heavy OC. Just turn down the fan and keep temps in the 70-80 range.
Which 7970 did you get?
Pretty sure my Sapphire 7950 just hit the fan... Out of nowhere I got a bunch of white lines down the entire screen and then it went black. Turned off the computer and nothing but a black screen.
So I plugged my monitor into my Motherboard and it works perfectly fine.
The fans are still spinning on the 7950, but I cant seem to get a video signal from it (tried both HDMI and DVI). Fuuuuuu... Atleast I can still return it to amazon if needed rather than RMAing.
It's a good 'un.This one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202008
Seemed like one of the top 3 to get...? :shrug:
Sucks hard bro. How long have you had it?
Save your money, crossfire is really janky right now.Itll be two weeks tomorrow. I already contacted amazon asking if Id be able to return it even though I already cut out and mailed the UPC for the rebate and they said no problem.
Already sent me a label and ill be dropping it off at UPS within the hour.
Atleast I got the second one for my birthday yesterday so Im not without a card haha. Wouldve been cool to play Bioshock with Crossfire though at 2560x1440
Amazon cant send me a replacement because their sold out so my only option is a refund. I bought it when it was $290 plus a $20 rebate so $270 with Bioshock and Crysis so it was a nice deal.
Guess Ill look around for another one on sale.
Is crossfire 7950s worth it? Or should I just save my money
Figure out what fan speed is acceptable to you, and then set that at 79C. Taper it down to the minimum value, and have it ramp up rapidly at 80C onward. If that isn't working out, increase/decrease the 79C point until it works out well.
It's a good 'un.
The troubles OriginofHysteria was having with customer service would exist with any of the companies. They would all assume he's asking how to overvolt the card while trying to be coy, even if it was truly wanting to know how to lower voltages.
The people at Sapphire are pretty great, with a ton of community support. They've been one of the major sponsors at PDXLAN for a really long time now too, which is pretty cool. They're like the EVGA of AMD, except with better coolers.
Only had to deal with their customer service once, and it was for a client/work PC, got the RMA back in the normal RMA time frame of 2 weeks.
Just got a 7950 and I feel like it's sagging but I'm not sure lol. What are you guys doing to fix that?
Hope I didn't just install a DOA PSU, I'm racking my brain right now.Ugh. Replaced my PSU (which was working just fine, but wanted a more reliable unit to move on with and for future), and now I get nothing when I try to power up. I'll have to go over everything and make sure I'm connected up fine, but got damn. Never had this problem before.
Not even a whisper.
Itll be two weeks tomorrow. I already contacted amazon asking if Id be able to return it even though I already cut out and mailed the UPC for the rebate and they said no problem.
Already sent me a label and ill be dropping it off at UPS within the hour.
Atleast I got the second one for my birthday yesterday so Im not without a card haha. Wouldve been cool to play Bioshock with Crossfire though at 2560x1440
Amazon cant send me a replacement because their sold out so my only option is a refund. I bought it when it was $290 plus a $20 rebate so $270 with Bioshock and Crysis so it was a nice deal.
Guess Ill look around for another one on sale.
Is crossfire 7950s worth it? Or should I just save my money
PSA
Save your money, crossfire is really janky right now.
*edit*
You could return the second card and go 7970 or even Titan. Maybe snipe a used one too.
That's good of amazon to take it post upc-extract. I believe Newegg flat out won't.
I just got my MSI 7950 one month ago yesterday, so I'm in RMA territory now if something goes wrong.
I would avoid crossfire for now, and maybe pick up that 2nd 7950 in July when AMD releases the drivers that fix the crossfire jank.
Which 7970 did you get?
I'm awful at setting up fan profiles, do you know like what would be a recommended fan curve? I'm not going for a high OC, ive OC'd the core by like 100 mhz and I've reached 65c with a 66% fan load and it's damn loud. (thats on auto profile)
Protip from a married man:Cant really return the second 7950 as it was a birthday present from my GF. She'd kill me if I returned it lol.
Edit: If you are still not happy with the result Gigabytes Windforce coolers are amazing just btw. But you NEED to setup a custom fan profile. They are damn noisy @ default.
With 65c under load (I'm assuming that's load, right?) you have quite some room to go for lower fan speeds. Try setting up a custom fan profile with MSIs Afterburner. Aim for sth. like 75c under full load (so lower the fan speed settings until you reach ~that point) and make sure to set the fan profile up in a way that it'll reach 100% at sth. like 90c (so if sth. goes incredibly wrong with your temperatures the fan will go full speed).
I'm on a different card (7870 Gigabyte Windforce), so it won't help you all that much, but that's my setup:
20% at 30c and everything lower than that (~zero noise at that fan speed)
36% at 50c (so a little less than 1% increase per c increase)
45% at 60c (a little less than 1% per c)
80% at 80c (a little less than 2% per c)
100% at 90c (2% per c)
Edit: If you are still not happy with the result Gigabytes Windforce coolers are amazing just btw. But you NEED to setup a custom fan profile. They are damn noisy @ default.
That was pretty well the mantra of this build until she gave up and said 'just do whatever you want'Protip from a married man:
It's easier to ask and receive forgiveness than it is permission.
4 Titans is the way to go, to heck with these frame latency complaints. Be a man and build one of these
http://www.overclock.net/t/1372360/...an-portrait-surround-gloss-asus-vg248qe-build
.
To lower my worries, I first reconnected my old PSU from outside the case. Just connected the mobo and video card and luckily that fires up right away.Try the paperclip trick, plug a fan into one of the molex connectors to ensure that it's powering on. A lot of PSUs won't turn the internal fan on if they are drawing under a certain % of their capacity.
If it works:
1) Trying powering on the system with the bare minimum. Use onboard video, no HDD/SSD, no fans other than CPU fan.
2) Reseat every single PSU cable, making sure they are nice and snug.
3) Make sure your power switch is plugged into the motherboard correctly, or even try jumping the two pins that it plugs into with a piece of (insulated where you hold it) metal.
Unplugged it all and reconnected the old PSU from outside the case. Connecting just motherboard and video card, fires right up =/
4) If all else fails, try booting it up outside of your case.
Amazon don't care! We buy everything from amazon, computers, beds, food and they are the best about returns.Cant really return the second 7950 as it was a birthday present from my GF. She'd kill me if I returned it lol.
Yeah thats what I was really afraid of since there was no more UPC, but I talked to them on live chat and made sure to ask them if the fact that I cut the UPC out for the rebate and no longer had it on the box would be a problem for my return and they said no. They said "we only need the actual product inside the box". I made sure to screen capture that conversation incase anything comes up lol.
That was pretty well the mantra of this build until she gave up and said 'just do whatever you want'
That's a good thing right?
She is totally non-materialistic. I won the lottery with this one.Until she comes home with a Louis Vuitton
I was starting to feel the age of my 4850(wow looking at my order history I bought this thing a little over four years ago.) to this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125439.
I'm pretty excited.
Just got my new AMD card. I'm switching over from an Nvidia card so I wanted to ask to be sure...
I'm running driversweeper and cleaning out all things Nvidia. I've also uninstalled everything via control panel that has the name Nvidia on it. Is there anything else I should know? Should I be restarting in safe mode or something? I heard this could be tricky.
Edit: Ran driver sweeper and now I get no display when I reboot my computer. Seems expected. So should I pop the old card out and put the new one in now or what? Or has something gone heinously wrong?
See if you get a display signal when booting into safe mode. From safe mode go ahead and install the AMD *beta* drivers and see if it boots in normal mode then.
Had the same thing happen. That's what worked for me.
DP supports 120Hz, dunno about 144HzQuestion:
Picked these
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236313
monitors a week ago, they just came it. I know I'm fine with dual link DVI for the 120Hz+.. but can I just run display port to display port and get the 120Hz+?
Edit:
Will this work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200205
Question:
Picked these
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236313
monitors a week ago, they just came it. I know I'm fine with dual link DVI for the 120Hz+.. but can I just run display port to display port and get the 120Hz+?
Edit:
Will this work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200205
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=hackintosh+compatible+parts+wiki&l=1Hey PC-GAF, I need your help. We're looking to build a new hackintosh and I'm new to the game. Can anyone help me out, with any resources or tips? Especially in terms of component compatibility? What motherboards can I use? We do a lot of graphic rendering so we have to be able to get a pretty nice GPU. Also, a guide to getting started with dual-booting (win would be nice) would be greatly appreciated -_-
Im sorry for being so needy
Hey PC-GAF, I need your help. We're looking to build a new hackintosh and I'm new to the game. Can anyone help me out, with any resources or tips? Especially in terms of component compatibility? What motherboards can I use? We do a lot of graphic rendering so we have to be able to get a pretty nice GPU. Also, a guide to getting started with dual-booting (win would be nice) would be greatly appreciated -_-
Im sorry for being so needy
Amazon don't care! We buy everything from amazon, computers, beds, food and they are the best about returns.