Buy a used 2600K for $230 and OC it to ~4.4Ghz
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
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chickdigger802
Banned
oh shit, was thinking 3570k but typed it in wrong somewhere lol. No wonder my math seems off 
only big difference between 3570k and 3770k is hyperthreading right? Wouldn't matter for games i think.
only big difference between 3570k and 3770k is hyperthreading right? Wouldn't matter for games i think.
Not right now anyway. I'd still buy a used 2600K if you are pinching (That's what I did).oh shit, was thinking 3570k but typed it in wrong somewhere lol. No wonder my math seems off
only big difference between 3570k and 3770k is hyperthreading right? Wouldn't matter for games i think.
chickdigger802
Banned
never bought/sold used pc hardware before. How does that work? Does it usually turn out alright?
Wonder if I can get some cash off my old 460 that's lying around.
Wonder if I can get some cash off my old 460 that's lying around.
Xdrive05
Member
oh shit, was thinking 3570k but typed it in wrong somewhere lol. No wonder my math seems off
only big difference between 3570k and 3770k is hyperthreading right? Wouldn't matter for games i think.
Only some of* the newest games will benefit, like Crysis 3 (get's a 30% framerate boost from Hyper Threading in foliage dense areas).
Next Gen games will probably take advantage of it too, since the consoles will have 8 cores.
*edit
So guys, heres what I'm thinking my build will be
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory
Storage: Western Digital Green 2TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Disk
Video Card: Asus Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card
I'm going for a higher end build, but I don't need super top of the line.
How does it look? Is there something I should downgrade or something I should upgrade?
This will be my first PC build in like 7 years since high school, can't wait
I just helped my friend put together a build with a lot of the exact same parts. Same exact motherboard, same processor, same RAM. The only differences were he put in an 7950 w/ Boost and 8GB of the Gskill RAM, and opted for the 1TB Western Digital Blue.
You don't have a power supply in that build and you might want to go with a Western Digital Blue rather than a Green for better performance. Other than that, looks good. If you need to cut somewhere to fit those items in, 8GB of RAM and the 6950 w/ would still get you close to the same performance. The 6950Boost overclocks (literally with a flip of a switch) to pretty much 7950 default performance and you can always add more RAM later.
CreepingFear
Member
Is this your first time, hence your spoiler? If so, good luck. I built my first in 2011 and it was one of the greatest moments in my life.
Ever time I see pics of parts in a pile ready to be unpackaged, it makes me want to build a computer, even if it isn't for me.
Yeah, this would be my real first one. I just got done with the CPU/ 212 evo/PSU and such.
A lot of pressure to put the CPU made me think that I was doing something wrong... Had to remove the excessive thermal paste(even though I barely pushed down any) and I am curious why an Extreme 4 doesn't come with binding screws. Like seriously, the ones with my case are too short. lol ><
I can't blame you. This is actually better than I thought it would be.
chickdigger802
Banned
hmmm I feel like i've been let down by Razer and Logitech recently with there decent but really shitty quality mice.
Any alternatives? I can handle claw and palm grip and wired... but I need some extra mouse buttons.
Any alternatives? I can handle claw and palm grip and wired... but I need some extra mouse buttons.
HammerOfThor
Member
Awesome thanks! I took your advice and now I'm below $2,000
Now I just need to pick a case...
WD10EZEX is the only choice (new) imo. It's a 1TB platter (bit high of an access time, but ~130MB/s.) Used Samsung F3/F4 if you can find one. Also nothing you are buying is reliable.
If you feel like messing around you can get a WD RED and muck about in the settings to make it not be a server drive.
This WD Blue 1TB is the one I got. WD blues aren't load, but still 7200rpm. I linked to Amazon and not newegg because of better returns + tiny bit cheaper atm.
Edit: beaten.
Hawk269
Member
Thanks Haz.....
BTW...If he were to look at 2tb drives, what is the best of the best right now? He emailed me just after I asked the first question stating that he thinks he wants a 2tb drive now.
Thanks again!
Just making sure I did everything correctly and...Err, I did that and didn't clean it up completely... Really bad idea? And if I don't have alcohol to clean it with?
Edit: Well, checking that website does make me want to clean it and reapply it now. sigh
Acetone with Q-tips will do the trick?
Honestly not sure. Most of the 2TB drives are still meant for storage and are green drives.
Blacks are expensive and loud as hell, the WD Greens aren't the fastest and are meh reliable.
Never liked the Seagate 2TB's and after replacing the Samsung F4 2TB with a Seagate Green (and not telling anyone) they can go fuck themselves as well as giving some of their OEM drives a 1 year warranty.
You can gamble on a Toshiba drive as they are the only ones left besides WD/Seagate.
As I mentioned before you could look at the RED's and research disabling TLER and stuff, but I never went full into this as I just bought a used Samsung F4 instead.
So... 2 x 1TB WD10EZEX's. Although checking SMART data on HDDs every so often should mitigate some of the issues, it's just sour. Samsung comes and makes the best shit then stops. Annoying
It's thermal paste it barely matters. I just use a napkin and water if I don't have my cleaning stuff out.
A Q-Tip can leave fine threads so use something more solid.
Ah ok. I will get a napkin with no residue and just some water then. Thanks!
I guess I shouldn't freak out about the thermal paste.
Just ordered the Silverstone SG05 with 450W PSU. After seeing one in person, I just had to have this tiny thing. They looked so huge in pictures which is why I haven't paid much attention to them before. My initial plan was to construct/machine a small itx case out of aluminum but that is out the window now.
GHG
Member
Still works pretty well even if you don't have a girlfriend/wife.
Yeh if your mum has some of the stuff lying around
.Crimsonclaw111
Member
I can RMA a component if it's within warranty of a purchase date, right? Because I bought the RAM from earlier and I don't think I'll actually be able to test it until I get at least a mobo, PSU, CPU, and case. I doubt the RAM will be a lemon but you never know for sure.
Has anybody had to return components to Amazon before, or do they redirect you to manufacturers?
Has anybody had to return components to Amazon before, or do they redirect you to manufacturers?
GHG
Member
If its within the date specified on amazons return policy then you simply return it to them. If not then its rma and there is the possibility that you'd have to do that directly with the manufacturer.
Crimsonclaw111
Member
Still works pretty well even if you don't have a girlfriend/wife.
lol good idea, but was too tired to look for that and just went with water. Putting the thermal paste while the MB inside the case wasn't a bright idea, but took a break after and now done with the whole thing.
Worst case scenario is that I fry the MB when I hit on? :| In all seriousness, all of the wire heads for Restart/Power/LED/HDLED from the case got a tiny arrow in a corner, I assumed that's where the left/+ was? Just making sure they are all plugged in correctly.
God damnit I am so divided right now.
I'm getting a new CPU and I'm very torn between the i5 3570k or the i7 3770k. I can easily afford the i7 at the moment, but I still don't want to throw away money unnecessarily.
I just get the feeling that more and more games will be using more and more cpu cores as they get optimized...
Gaf please help me decide!
I want to overclock whichever I buy, and I also do extremely heavy Photoshop work, but I am not sure if it is very CPU bound or not.
I'm getting a new CPU and I'm very torn between the i5 3570k or the i7 3770k. I can easily afford the i7 at the moment, but I still don't want to throw away money unnecessarily.
I just get the feeling that more and more games will be using more and more cpu cores as they get optimized...
Gaf please help me decide!
I want to overclock whichever I buy, and I also do extremely heavy Photoshop work, but I am not sure if it is very CPU bound or not.
ss_lemonade
Member
6950 reaches 7950 performance??
Reckless Onion
Member
So my buddy finally ordered his pc, what do you guy's think?
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 SC Signature
Intel® Core i7-3770K
Corsair HX750
Corsair CSSD-F240GBGS-BK
Antec Performance One P-280
LG BH10LS38 (blu ray)
ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE
Western Digital WD2003FYYS 2 TB
Corsair 32 GB DDR3-1600 Quad-Kit
EVGA GeForce GTX 680 SC Signature
Intel® Core i7-3770K
Corsair HX750
Corsair CSSD-F240GBGS-BK
Antec Performance One P-280
LG BH10LS38 (blu ray)
ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE
Western Digital WD2003FYYS 2 TB
Corsair 32 GB DDR3-1600 Quad-Kit
Frankfurter
Member
Looks good. I do wonder though why people keep buying PSUs in 700W+ range, if their PC will barely ever exceed 300W in power draw. Unless he wants to put another GTX680 in there down the road that's just a waste of money (both in terms of the PSU price and the lower efficiency of the PSU).
Reckless Onion
Member
Yes, he wants to have the option to go SLI/crossfire in the future.
Does anyone know if this powerline adapter is any good?
TP-Link TL-PA411 KIT Mini Powerline Ethernet Adapter HD Streaming 500Mbps AV500
Getting it off eBay, but there's hundreds of different powerline adapters.. :S
Much appreciated.
TP-Link TL-PA411 KIT Mini Powerline Ethernet Adapter HD Streaming 500Mbps AV500
Getting it off eBay, but there's hundreds of different powerline adapters.. :S
Much appreciated.
They are yes, I've 5 or 6 of their 200Mbps ones and they're very good.
5 or 6? Jesus.
Cheers for the response mate, much appreciated.
I'm guessing it doesn't matter if the router/modem is another brand other than TP-Link?
Thanks again!
If you can wait, haswell in June
I've been looking into getting a 250 GB SSD and the Samsung 840 Pro seems very good.
However, is there any idea to get the Basic version instead? I looked at some charts and the two comes out very close. How big is the practical difference? I'm only running games on my system. The Basic goes for around $80 less than the Pro here in Denmark.
However, is there any idea to get the Basic version instead? I looked at some charts and the two comes out very close. How big is the practical difference? I'm only running games on my system. The Basic goes for around $80 less than the Pro here in Denmark.
Most PSU:s are most effective at around 50%. Lesser noise at lesser loads. These are the two biggest perks of having a PSU that powerful, and of course future proofing if you want to go dual gpu.
CreepingFear
Member
The 840 Pro uses MLC flash memory that should last longer before wearing out and is a little faster, while the 840 vanilla version uses a cheaper TLC flash memory that is very fast, but should wear out well before MLC memory will wear out. I'd get the 840 Pro or an 830(which I own) if you can still find one. The 830 came in only one version with MLC, so there is no 830 Pro so to speak.
Thanks for pointing that out. I guess that explains why the Basics are on 120/250/500 as well?
I really wanted to get a 512 version, but the current prices are just crazy. I won't drop that amount on a harddrive.
Is Samsung's transfer software for moving the OS any good? I'm really dont want to reinstall my data again, as I just got Windows 8 recently.
CreepingFear
Member
256 GB is the sweet spot for performance, price, and capacity right now. Hopefully prices will continue to fall so that I can get a 512 GB SSD for my next build in 2014.
Samsung's transfer software is just Norton Ghost I think. My 830 version didn't come with it, so I can't tell you how well it works. The nice thing about an SSD is how fast windows will install on it when combined with putting windows7/8 on a flash drive for install, especially Windows 8.
I asked this is the Bioshock Infinite thread, but didn't see a response. I finally hooked my gaming PC up to my TV (HDMI) and A/V receiver (Optical/TOSLINK) to play BI. I have the ASUS P8Z77-v motherboard. I configure the RealTek HD Audio to output in DTS 5.1 to Digital/Optical. I see the receiver switch to DTS while playing BI, but I don't hear any rear channel audio. Any tips? This motherboard supports DTS Connect and NeoC etc. I am under the impression it can encode on-the-fly to DTS and since my A/V receiver support DTS the audio should be in surround. Thanks!
Edit: one thing to add - In the Realtek Digital Output(Optical) Properties / Advanced tab the Default Format is set to DTS Interactive (5.1 Surround). When I press the Test button I see the receiver switch to DTS, but only hear the chime in the left and right channel.
C etc. I am under the impression it can encode on-the-fly to DTS and since my A/V receiver support DTS the audio should be in surround. Thanks!Edit: one thing to add - In the Realtek Digital Output(Optical) Properties / Advanced tab the Default Format is set to DTS Interactive (5.1 Surround). When I press the Test button I see the receiver switch to DTS, but only hear the chime in the left and right channel.
Sorry, I meant 7950 boost and 7970 respectively. My bad. I listed it correctly in my first paragraph and I don't think there is such a thing as a 6950 boost. Hopefully he recognized the typo.
theSlacker
Member
I am so happy that I was able to get a few of the 256gb 830s right when the 840 launched now that they are unavailable everywhere.
BurningNad
Member
Hey guys, I'm looking to upgrade my video card, and possibly my RAM as well. Looking to get some opinions, I would love to spend less than $250. It's flexible though.
Currently I have:
CPU: Intel i5 750 @ 3400 MHz
Video: Radeon HD 5850 1GB
RAM: 4 GB DDR3-1333
Should I bother upgrading the RAM? I just play games and browse the internet. I think I'm okay with the processor, I'm really not ready to completely upgrade, I can still run most games on high, some have to be bumped to medium but w/e. What would the general consensus be for a significant upgrade over the 5850 at a decent price?
Currently I have:
CPU: Intel i5 750 @ 3400 MHz
Video: Radeon HD 5850 1GB
RAM: 4 GB DDR3-1333
Should I bother upgrading the RAM? I just play games and browse the internet. I think I'm okay with the processor, I'm really not ready to completely upgrade, I can still run most games on high, some have to be bumped to medium but w/e. What would the general consensus be for a significant upgrade over the 5850 at a decent price?
Get a 7870. Should last ya awhile. Comes with Bioshock and Tomb Raider
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125418
Is a good one.
RAM might not be a terrible idea to get since it is going up, but if you're just gaming and not having 20 tabs open you miiight be ok.
Who leaves their computer running at 100% load most of the time? Bigger PSU makes it even more inefficient when idle.
BurningNad
Member
Cool, thanks for the quick reply... I think I'll go for that deal, Tomb Raider and Bioshock are two games I've been meaning to get anyway... kill 3 birds with one stone.
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