ElectricKaibutsu
Member
You can use magic jellybean to display your key (which I learned from nbthedude earlier in this thread).
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Is product ID not the same thing? I can see that within system info.
Nevermind, got all the info off magicjellybean. Just hope all activations aren't used up.
Ah, no wonder I didn't find it. That option is grayed out for me on my Optical output. Here's a screenshot.
In theory I should get DTS in surround sound using this ASUS MB and SPDIF/Optical out. I'd really like to figure out how to do this or I'm afraid it's back to consoles if I want to play on my big TV in surround.
Are you using the MB onboard sound? If yes, most MBs, unless very high end that has the DTS Live license, only do surround sound through the analog inputs. Negative for optical. The Microsoft sound test will play in surround, but any other sound will just be stereo. I learned that the hard why while trying to get my HTPC to work. For optical, you will need to buy a sound card with DTS decoding. Another cheaper solution is to pass through the sound to a DTS receiver, but I notice some sounds, like PCM, are still just stereo.
ElectricKaibutsu
Member
First off, I really appreciate all the advice I've gotten in this thread. From unlocking two cores in my CPU to buying a GPU used, I've already saved well over $200.
I'm upgrading my HTPC Linux box for gaming. I have two HDDs in there now, a 1 terabyte something or other and a 2 terabyte WD Green (which, from this thread I know is not ideal). I only have like 100gb left on the 1tb drive so I was thinking of installing Windows on the 2tb Green. The thing is, unless I shift 800gb of movies to the end of the drive, I'd be installing the OS on the inside of the platters which I know isn't good for read speed. I've heard it's better to install an OS on the front of a drive but, is that really necessary? Shifting all that data around, I'm afraid I'll mess up my carefully pruned XBMC library. How badly would this affect game play? Would it only affect load times?
Thank you
I'm upgrading my HTPC Linux box for gaming. I have two HDDs in there now, a 1 terabyte something or other and a 2 terabyte WD Green (which, from this thread I know is not ideal). I only have like 100gb left on the 1tb drive so I was thinking of installing Windows on the 2tb Green. The thing is, unless I shift 800gb of movies to the end of the drive, I'd be installing the OS on the inside of the platters which I know isn't good for read speed. I've heard it's better to install an OS on the front of a drive but, is that really necessary? Shifting all that data around, I'm afraid I'll mess up my carefully pruned XBMC library. How badly would this affect game play? Would it only affect load times?
Thank you
Yes. Is the SSD connected to the 6GB/s port?
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/28/kingston_ssdnow_v300_120gb_ssd_review/9
Yes. Is the SSD connected to the 6GB/s port?
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/28/kingston_ssdnow_v300_120gb_ssd_review/9
Just made sure and it is. I did a uefi install can that be it? Its a new SSD
A.Romero
Member
This is correct.
For example, try spdif pass through in vlc and it will work because your receiver is the one actually doing the decoding.
I'm not sure if there is an alternative so it will encode everything...
I used an external USB Based Sound Blaster Live for this purpose.
Got a question for people here.
Currently using a 400W corsair PSU. Now I've seen that the current gen AMD cards are low power and seemingly I could use one of their current cards on it. I currently have a GTX 460 but I was thinking about upgrading probably in the next gen of video cards. What are the chances I could keep using my PSU if I stayed with AMD?
Currently using a 400W corsair PSU. Now I've seen that the current gen AMD cards are low power and seemingly I could use one of their current cards on it. I currently have a GTX 460 but I was thinking about upgrading probably in the next gen of video cards. What are the chances I could keep using my PSU if I stayed with AMD?
No problems.
Yes. I bought the ASUS P8Z77-V per last years recommendation. It has both DTS Connect and DTS UltraPC II. On the ASUS web page under DTS Connect you will see: "DTS Interactive is capable of performing multi-channel encoding of DTS bitstreams on personal computers, and sending encoded bitstreams out of a digital audio connection (such as S/PDIF or HDMI) designed to deliver audio to an external decoder".
My A/V Receiver can handle anything I throw at it in the tests, DTS, DD5.1, and WMAPro9 (or something) as well as all bit rates. Maybe I should try another game? I'm really not sure what to do. I can show screen shots of the terrible UI software for the Realtek HD Audio Manager, but as far as I can tell I have things set properly. I'm really at a loss, but am super appreciative of all of you for your assistance.
On the Specs page it says:
Realtek® ALC892 8-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC
- Supports : Jack-detection, Multi-streaming, Front Panel Jack-retasking
Audio Feature :
- Absolute Pitch 192kHz/ 24-bit True BD Lossless Sound
- DTS Ultra PC II
- DTS Connect
- Optical S/PDIF out port(s) at back panel
Hey everyone, so their has been a delay in getting my PC built, but I think it'll get built this week, and before I submit the list I just wanted to make sure its all good, so my worries can be set aside.
Here's what I have,
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 680 Twin Frozr III 2GB OC
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
Wireless: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 450Mbps Wireless N PCIe Adaptor
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W
Not really hoping to change anything, but if anything drastic needs changing then I'm up for it. Any feedback would be appreciated. This PC is mainly for gaming, and will hopefully last me for a few years before changing anything.
Here's the link to all the parts: Link
Also, not sure if anyone can answer this, but will all the above components fit in the case?
Thanks again to everyone that's helped me with building this PC.
Here's what I have,
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 680 Twin Frozr III 2GB OC
Hard Drive: Western Digital WD Black 2TB WD2002FAEX
CPU Cooler: Enermax Liquid CPU Cooler ELC240
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX
Optical Drive: Pioneer DVR-220LBKS Black 24x DVDRW OEM
CPU: Intel Core i7 3770K
Wireless: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 450Mbps Wireless N PCIe Adaptor
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit with SP1 OEM
SSD: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB SSD
RAM: Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Black Pearl
MOBO: MSI Z77 MPOWER Motherboard
PSU: CoolerMaster Silent Pro Hybrid M850 850W
Not really hoping to change anything, but if anything drastic needs changing then I'm up for it. Any feedback would be appreciated. This PC is mainly for gaming, and will hopefully last me for a few years before changing anything.
Here's the link to all the parts: Link
Also, not sure if anyone can answer this, but will all the above components fit in the case?
Thanks again to everyone that's helped me with building this PC.
chickdigger802
Banned
3570k is $210 on amazon... gah I'm trying to save cash... but so hard to resist... buying... stuff...
You need a device that does DTS Live for encoding. Ask I already mention, the Windows test will works since the sound file used is already in DTS format. Games aren't in that format, and thus, you will only get stereo. That's why it confounded me for awhile seeing how the Windows test works, but anything else won't.
Personally, I would go with 4GB video card since you plan to keep it for a few years. Right now, games are already hitting the 2GB limit, Bioshock Infinite, and probably, would be getting worse once new games are designed for the nextgen consoles.
Easily.
Cannon Goose
Member
I think my USB ports are dying. When I start up my computer my wired Xbox controller and my Sensei Raw both go dead (no LEDs flashing, no mouse movement) and then suddenly they seem to get some half-assed power and their LEDs flash in this really irregular pattern. I've tried different USB ports but neither device works until I restart the computer, and then they only work for a split second after Windows has started.
I've removed the mouse drivers and reinstalled them and that worked. I was able to use my mouse again (as well as the controller...) for an entire day through multiple reboots even. But today it just doesn't work again and it's making me nervous.
This mouse is less than a month old but I don't think it's the mouse since the controller also acts up at the same time. Has anyone else run into a problem like this before?
EDIT: Unplugging both devices, rebooting, and then plugging the mouse back in seems to have fixed it... I really don't know why it started happening in the first place though.
I've removed the mouse drivers and reinstalled them and that worked. I was able to use my mouse again (as well as the controller...) for an entire day through multiple reboots even. But today it just doesn't work again and it's making me nervous.
This mouse is less than a month old but I don't think it's the mouse since the controller also acts up at the same time. Has anyone else run into a problem like this before?
EDIT: Unplugging both devices, rebooting, and then plugging the mouse back in seems to have fixed it... I really don't know why it started happening in the first place though.
The dominant wisdom in this thread tends to disagree with you as there apparently is no evidence that the higher Ram videocards garner better performance.
I'm just trying to save you from the wraith of mckenyon's charts and graphs.
cpp_is_king
Member
I'm thinking about replacing my 2 ASUS VS247H-P with 2 ASUS VG248QE. Can someone explain how this whole Lightboost hack works, and why I would want to do it? I've found some people talking about doing it with nVidia, but I have an AMD card, so am I out of luck?
Also, my video card only has 1 HDMI and 1 DisplayPort, so I'd need to use 1 of each connecting both monitors at the same time. Is there a difference in quality / response time / anything else between the two?
Also, my video card only has 1 HDMI and 1 DisplayPort, so I'd need to use 1 of each connecting both monitors at the same time. Is there a difference in quality / response time / anything else between the two?
The dominant wisdom in this thread tends to disagree with you as there apparently is no evidence that the higher Ram videocards garner better performance.
I'm just trying to save you from the wraith of mckenyon's charts and graphs.
Mckenyon and you should visit the Bioshock Performance thread. And, I wouldn't be surprise if you and him said the samething about needing only 1GB VRAM for 1080p back before 2 GB become the standard.
In fact, he did many pages back and I provided a link that showed him wrong
chickdigger802
Banned
whats the diff between cool master hyper 212+ and 212 evo?
It's like a $1.50 difference on amazon.
It's like a $1.50 difference on amazon.
212+ is on top. The difference is actually negligible, AFAIK. Get whichever is cheaper.
I had the same problem, it turned out to be a missing Intel driver (rapid store tech.) I bet that's what your problem is. Try https://downloadcenter.intel.com/Se...2+Intel+Rapid+Storage+Technology+(Intel+RST)"
So this one?
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21725
I'm so confused, everyone's telling me there's no point, then others are saying you might as well get the 4GB one.
Can anyone else provide an insight into what I should do?
I would go for 4gb. I'm kicking myself in the ass right now for not spending the extra money, which was no big deal for me, for the 4gb version. I have a few games that i run mods on
I'm curious what games these are, I was worried that my 2gb 670 wouldn't be enough for New Vegas with mods but even after I added high res textures, advanced effects and increased rendering distances through ini settings etc. it only used 1.6gb vram at 2560x1440 with 8xAA.
From what I've heard/read, only a heavily modded Skyrim even comes close to using up all that VRAM. (No doubt I'll be swiftly and violently corrected if this is not the case. )
If you've got the $65 to spare, it can't hurt to get the 4GB card, otherwise you're likely not missing much if you save the money.
)If you've got the $65 to spare, it can't hurt to get the 4GB card, otherwise you're likely not missing much if you save the money.
SloaneRisette
Member
Hey guys, built my new computer about a little over a week ago now, and it's been working great! Just need to overclock soon, but other than that, everything has been awesome...
Except for one little thing: I'm using the Asus Xonar DGX sound card, and I feel like at times I've gotten some like, crackling/popping sounds. I don't have my sound turned up loud at all, pretty reasonable levels, but every so often I'll get that type of thing when listening to music and such. Anyone know what's wrong/what I could do for a fix?
Except for one little thing: I'm using the Asus Xonar DGX sound card, and I feel like at times I've gotten some like, crackling/popping sounds. I don't have my sound turned up loud at all, pretty reasonable levels, but every so often I'll get that type of thing when listening to music and such. Anyone know what's wrong/what I could do for a fix?
The dominant wisdom in this thread tends to disagree with you as there apparently is no evidence that the higher Ram videocards garner better performance.
I'm just trying to save you from the wraith of mckenyon's charts and graphs.
For most games that's true, but I suspect VRAM use in many games is going to rise dramatically in the next few years because of huge jump in RAM that the new consoles will have -- that change is going to be felt in PC games as well, and I'd bet equally that the next refresh from AMD & NVidia push up the GDDR5 they're packing at most price points.
When the previous generation of consoles launched, it seemed to spur a rapid increase in PC GPU performance, which may be attributed in part to new economies of scale at work in the mass-production of the dedicated GPU's and memory when the console cycle switches over. I'm not aware of a good study examining this... but it seems logical based on microeconomic theory.
The problem with that theory is that you are paying a premium for something now in hopes that you are reading tea leaves right on something that, even if it pans out, will not be a premium priced product in the future.
In Bioshock Infinite, people with 2GB or less are needing to manually set so the VRAM stays under 2GB within the ini file to help lessen ingame stuttering. Read up more about it in Bioshock Performance thread. A heavy modded Skyrim uses 2.5GB or more. Another is Crysis 3, 2.5GB max settings 1440p.
The reason why you don't see much difference today is, because except for a few, games are designed for 2GB VRAM. They will dynamically load, like draw distance, textures and etc., no matter you settings so you won't hit the VRAM limit and hurt your fps score. Prime example, is BF3. With nextgen, I would expect the standard VRAM would be increase to 3 or more GB.
New Vegas is the main game i play modded. Im at 1.4gb vram running 4 mods. I also play GTA IV.
Bioshock infinite is hitting 1.73 on my computer. Idk if mods are coming out for this game but they gonna make my card cry if they do =(
GHG
Member
Ah, no wonder I didn't find it. That option is grayed out for me on my Optical output. Here's a screenshot.
In theory I should get DTS in surround sound using this ASUS MB and SPDIF/Optical out. I'd really like to figure out how to do this or I'm afraid it's back to consoles if I want to play on my big TV in surround.
Your problem is quite simple... Quit using optical and use hdmi for audio through your a/v reciever. Once connected, go back to that same page on the sound settings and right click on the nvidia audio device you are using, select 5.1, select the layout and select the types of audio that can be decoded by youramp. Then all your games will be in 5.1 and any movies that are in 5.1 will play correctly using these settings if you use a player like vlc.
turbosnail
Banned
I saw an ad on craigslist for a 7850 MSI for a $100. Can someone tell me if it's worth buying a GFX card used? Also, how can I get this guy to properly prove to me that it's got no problems (because he is willing to show me in person)?
For what it's worth my SSD gives around the same speed using that same benchmark (Kingston V+200 120GB)Anyone know why i am getting slow speeds ?
Kingston V300 120gb
MSI Z77 GD65
win8 64
I had the upgrade bug and it just wouldn't go away.
For the past four years or so I had been rocking a C2D E8400. In order to upgrade my CPU I knew I had to upgrade the mobo and RAM as well, and all of that wouldn't be cheap. But I hoarded away some gift certs to Amazon and Newegg from Christmas and a birthday waited until I saw the right combination of deals. We got an unexpected check last week from overpaying home owner's insurance and that tipped me over the edge. Here is what I have now and what I am upgrading to (used OP to help out in buying choices):
Antec P182 case | I kind of wanted to get a new case but couldn't justify the cost.
C2D e8400 --> i5-3570K
Stock CPU cooler --> CoolerMaster 212 evo | Also bought some Arctic MX4
4 GB DDR2 --> Corsair Vengeance 8 GB DDR3 1600 low profile
Gigabyte P35-DS3R --> ASRock Z77 Pro4 | First time using ASRock, trusting the OP on this one!
Seasonic X650 Gold Modular PSU
MSI GTX 460 1 GB v 2.0 | This will need an upgrade eventually too, but I can put it off a while longer
Crucial M4 128 GB SSD
250 GB HDD
ASUS Xonar DX
ASUS Blu-Ray Drive
Windows 8 64
I have twin toddlers at home so it's going to be difficult to find time to do this upgrade. I'm also not looking forward to formatting and reinstalling Windows. I just did it last year when I got the SSD. At least I can start with a fresh Win8 install; this was the first time I upgraded Windows without formatting first.
Though I've built and upgraded several PCs over the past several years, I've never bothered to OC anything. As you can probably tell from my component choices, I intend to try it out now. Not just with my CPU, but supposedly my GPU is a pretty good overclocker (here it is on Newegg). So my biggest concern right now, (besides finding the time to put everything together, install Windows, stress test, etc.) is the airflow in my case. The fans in my P182 case are as they were when I originally received it, though I had to remove the fan in the lower compartment because there was not enough room there when I upgraded to my current PSU. I'm thinking I need to remove the middle HDD bay in the front and install a fan for intake, and then use the top and rear fans for exhaust. What do you guys think?
For the past four years or so I had been rocking a C2D E8400. In order to upgrade my CPU I knew I had to upgrade the mobo and RAM as well, and all of that wouldn't be cheap. But I hoarded away some gift certs to Amazon and Newegg from Christmas and a birthday waited until I saw the right combination of deals. We got an unexpected check last week from overpaying home owner's insurance and that tipped me over the edge. Here is what I have now and what I am upgrading to (used OP to help out in buying choices):
Antec P182 case | I kind of wanted to get a new case but couldn't justify the cost.
C2D e8400 --> i5-3570K
Stock CPU cooler --> CoolerMaster 212 evo | Also bought some Arctic MX4
4 GB DDR2 --> Corsair Vengeance 8 GB DDR3 1600 low profile
Gigabyte P35-DS3R --> ASRock Z77 Pro4 | First time using ASRock, trusting the OP on this one!
Seasonic X650 Gold Modular PSU
MSI GTX 460 1 GB v 2.0 | This will need an upgrade eventually too, but I can put it off a while longer
Crucial M4 128 GB SSD
250 GB HDD
ASUS Xonar DX
ASUS Blu-Ray Drive
Windows 8 64
I have twin toddlers at home so it's going to be difficult to find time to do this upgrade. I'm also not looking forward to formatting and reinstalling Windows. I just did it last year when I got the SSD. At least I can start with a fresh Win8 install; this was the first time I upgraded Windows without formatting first.
Though I've built and upgraded several PCs over the past several years, I've never bothered to OC anything. As you can probably tell from my component choices, I intend to try it out now. Not just with my CPU, but supposedly my GPU is a pretty good overclocker (here it is on Newegg). So my biggest concern right now, (besides finding the time to put everything together, install Windows, stress test, etc.) is the airflow in my case. The fans in my P182 case are as they were when I originally received it, though I had to remove the fan in the lower compartment because there was not enough room there when I upgraded to my current PSU. I'm thinking I need to remove the middle HDD bay in the front and install a fan for intake, and then use the top and rear fans for exhaust. What do you guys think?
Do The Mario
Unconfirmed Member
Hi Gaf, about to purchase the following parts to build my rig.
Planning on upgrading the graphics card/ram next year if I am loving PC gaming.
(a) Antec 620W High Current Gamer Power Supply;
(b) ASRock Z77-EXTREME4 MB;
(c) Asus Xonar DGX;
(d) BitFenix Shinobi Mid-Tower Black ATX Case;
(e) Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler, Revision 2;
(f) Corsair 8GB (2x4GB), PC3-12800 (1600MHz) DDR3, Vengeance LP;
(g) Intel Core i5 3570K;
(h) LG Blu Ray Combo Drive;
(i) Microsoft Windows 8 Pro 64 Bit OEI;
(j) Sandisk 64GB SSD;
(k) Sapphire Radeon HD7850 Overclocked (920Mhz), 2GB GDDR5;
(l) Western Digital 1TB WD Blue; and
(m) ASUS PCE-N15 300Mbps 802.11b/g/n Wireless PCI-E Adapter.
Happy for any feedback!
Planning on upgrading the graphics card/ram next year if I am loving PC gaming.
(a) Antec 620W High Current Gamer Power Supply;
(b) ASRock Z77-EXTREME4 MB;
(c) Asus Xonar DGX;
(d) BitFenix Shinobi Mid-Tower Black ATX Case;
(e) Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler, Revision 2;
(f) Corsair 8GB (2x4GB), PC3-12800 (1600MHz) DDR3, Vengeance LP;
(g) Intel Core i5 3570K;
(h) LG Blu Ray Combo Drive;
(i) Microsoft Windows 8 Pro 64 Bit OEI;
(j) Sandisk 64GB SSD;
(k) Sapphire Radeon HD7850 Overclocked (920Mhz), 2GB GDDR5;
(l) Western Digital 1TB WD Blue; and
(m) ASUS PCE-N15 300Mbps 802.11b/g/n Wireless PCI-E Adapter.
Happy for any feedback!
Mr. Wonderful
Member
64-bit games that use over 2GB of VRAM are going to be able to do some fantastic things. Can't wait for the next Elder Scrolls. Load everything at once!
Anyone interested in a £415 2560x1080 IPS monitor? http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/displays/53885-philips-298p4qjeb-superwidescreen-monitor/
chickdigger802
Banned
Anyone interested in a £415 2560x1080 IPS monitor? http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/displays/53885-philips-298p4qjeb-superwidescreen-monitor/
if that was 1440p maybe.
Do most games even support that resolution?
http://www.dell.com/ed/business/p/dell-u2913wm/pd
Same res as the Dell 2913WM. It seems most newer games support this res. The problem seems to be that the HUD are designed for 16:9 ratio so they are not at the edge of the screen.
Anyway, for about the same price, I would rather get a 1440p monitor.
Do The Mario
Unconfirmed Member
BTW guys what is the best way of hooking up the ASUS Xonar DGX sound card to my Yamaha receiver?
I take it the sound does not run over the HMDI cable that runs from the video card?
I figure you use a digital coaxial cable or digital optical cable?
Sorry just want to make sure I get the right cable for after I finish building the rig and I am new to PC gaming (well I have not done it in ages).
I take it the sound does not run over the HMDI cable that runs from the video card?
I figure you use a digital coaxial cable or digital optical cable?
Sorry just want to make sure I get the right cable for after I finish building the rig and I am new to PC gaming (well I have not done it in ages).
Absolutely.
Run FURMark or OCCT GPU test for 20 minutes. I'd rather purchase hardware from someone online who has Heatware though. eBay actually isn't bad for buying since buyer protection is ludicrous.
Move up.
Make sure nothing was accessing the drive (like a new install caching file locations)
Put it on the SATA 6gbps controller. Check your mobo manual. Alternatively try the other port if it's on that already.
I had this problem and it was my USB to mini USB cord I used to charge my phone with.
Try onboard and see if it happens.
Next, reseat the card and your audio connectors. Make sure the card isn't touching something. Try a different PCI-E slot.
Probably the card, but could be the mobo doing something funky.
Check the Fans article link in the News section. Should answer all your questions.
On the mobo some Pro 4's seems to not hold OC's. The Extreme 4's and ASUS LK's don't seem to have this issue. Just an fyi. It's still a nice board at the price if you don't have any issues.
Haswell is launching in June, so you might want to wait for that. (~10% faster, unknown OC potential, new socket)
Looks good, clueless on wireless.
Again, Haswell is launching in June, so you might want to wait for that.
Well, then that DTS Connect and Ultra PC bit on their site for this mobo is confusing as it made me think it could do what it said, encode DTS and send it out Optical. Technically I guess it is doing that, even though it's only stereo...I do see the DTS light on my A/V receiver when the game's audio is playing. (I finished the game in stereo, which to me is like going back to SD from HD.)
Before I go out and buy and audio card I will try this. My problem is my A/V receiver only has 1 HDMI out to my TV. It's using a non-PC HDMI port on the TV (DVR, PS3, 360). Meaning, I'll get overscan, which is fine for games and movies, but not for the PC. Hmm, I wonder if my TV has an HDMI out. I doubt it but I'll check that too. Right now my PC is connected the a 2nd HDMI input on my TV specifically for a PC.
For the sound card, looks like an optical cable to your receiver. Remember, to select the sound card as the default playback in Windows.
Is there a reason why you don't just use the HDMI from video card to your receiver?
Does your TV have something like full pixel screen (1:1) setting? If yes, use that setting and disable the GPU overscan option. If no, use the GPU overscan option to get the picture same size as your TV screen .
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