So you tried to play games without graphics drivers?
No wonder most games would not work.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
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So you tried to play games without graphics drivers?
No wonder most games would not work.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Hmm, $830 actually doesn't sound so bad for a solid PC; I was thinking I would have to spend $1,000+ for next gen performance. I'm still worried about building my own PC, but I guess there's a first time for everything.
I wouldn't really blame AMD for this, it's an old card on a preview version of an OS. It's no surprise you're having issues.
All the launch titles are at least anyway, I'd be surprised if they didn't have it for most games.
http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B009VSOFV2/
Any idea why this SSD is so much cheaper in Japan?
Shows up as being $360-370 elsewhere.
Any idea why this SSD is so much cheaper in Japan?
Shows up as being $360-370 elsewhere.
NinjaCatfish
Member
So I currently have a reference 660Ti in my machine, I'll put the full specs after the post.
A friend has given me a generous offer for my 660Ti, and I'm thinking of taking him up on it, if I can find another single card solution that will be a reasonable upgrade.
I game at 2560x1440 for mouse/keyboard based games, and 1920x1080 for console style games designed with a controller in mind (out to my TV via Big Picture).
Looking at a budget of about AU$400-$500? Maybe could stretch a bit further if there's a benefit to doing so.
Full system specs:
CPU: Intel i5 2500K (4.4GHz)
RAM: 16GB DDR3
GPU: GTX 660Ti Reference model
PSU: Corsair HX650
Motherboard: AsRock Extreme4 Z77
A friend has given me a generous offer for my 660Ti, and I'm thinking of taking him up on it, if I can find another single card solution that will be a reasonable upgrade.
I game at 2560x1440 for mouse/keyboard based games, and 1920x1080 for console style games designed with a controller in mind (out to my TV via Big Picture).
Looking at a budget of about AU$400-$500? Maybe could stretch a bit further if there's a benefit to doing so.
Full system specs:
CPU: Intel i5 2500K (4.4GHz)
RAM: 16GB DDR3
GPU: GTX 660Ti Reference model
PSU: Corsair HX650
Motherboard: AsRock Extreme4 Z77
7970 or a GTX 770 would be the best bet. Where are you buying from? Not sure just how overpriced PC parts are over there.
NinjaCatfish
Member
Cheers!
I was thinking a 770 would make sense. Would there be any benefits of going Nvidia or AMD?
I've typically stuck with Nvidia since they seem to be right on top of getting drivers sorted out as games come out, and there's PhysX which is a tiny nice thing.
AMD is looking a little more enticing recently with them forming the GPU basis of the upcoming consoles, and well, I guess TrexxFX is a thing.
And I'd probably be buying from www.ple.com.au, since they're nearby.
www.pccasegear.com is a good reference as to the general price of hardware in AU.
Gaming at 1440 I would go with the 7970 because of the 3GB memory and the wider bus. That website you are buying from only seems to have XFX though. Try to avoid those, many have said the cooler on that is worse than the reference design.
as for competing with consoles. I doubt you can go wrong going with either brand and TressFX is a DirectX 11 feature, works on Nvidia
doniewhalberg
Member
My pc is a mITX build and therefore has no soundcard inside due to no space. My assumption is that if I want one of those nice sets of headphones from the OP for gaming, I'm going to want a nice DAC too to get positional sound in ma games. I am correct?
You can get an external DAC.
I'm going to see how my onboard sounds first. Lots of people say they are quite good as is.
Dance Inferno
Unconfirmed Member
Alright I'm strongly considering taking the plunge into PC gaming. Here's the build I'm thinking of (culled from the OP):
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor - $220
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 - $140
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 - $77
Graphics: GIGABYTE GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0 GeForce GTX 760 2GB - $260
Storage: Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM - $65
Power Supply: Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power - $65
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black Steel / Plastic - $60
Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner - $18
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO - $35
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX - $50
SSD: SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD250KW 2.5" 250GB - $190
Total: $1,180
I'm not sure if these are the cheapest prices for these components as I just searched them on NewEgg. Are there certain components I could get rid of/downgrade and maintain good performance? I would like to keep the total bill under $1,000 if possible.
Also do I need a regular hard drive if I'm also getting a solid state drive? Seems kind of redundant no?
CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor - $220
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Intel Z77 - $140
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 - $77
Graphics: GIGABYTE GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0 GeForce GTX 760 2GB - $260
Storage: Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM - $65
Power Supply: Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power - $65
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 200R Black Steel / Plastic - $60
Optical Drive: ASUS 24X DVD Burner - $18
Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO - $35
Sound Card: ASUS Xonar DGX - $50
SSD: SAMSUNG 840 Series MZ-7TD250KW 2.5" 250GB - $190
Total: $1,180
I'm not sure if these are the cheapest prices for these components as I just searched them on NewEgg. Are there certain components I could get rid of/downgrade and maintain good performance? I would like to keep the total bill under $1,000 if possible.
Also do I need a regular hard drive if I'm also getting a solid state drive? Seems kind of redundant no?
NinjaCatfish
Member
Gaming at 1440 I would go with the 7970 because of the 3GB memory and the wider bus. That website you are buying from only seems to have XFX though. Try to avoid those, many have said the cooler on that is worse than the reference design.
as for competing with consoles. I doubt you can go wrong going with either brand and TressFX is a DirectX 11 feature, works on Nvidia
Thanks! Thinking about how AMD 8000 is reasonably close (October I hear?), I'm considering just managing on an old GTX 460 I have lying around for the time between selling my 660Ti and finding out whether the 8000 series is worthwhile.
I'd hate to spend $500 on a 7970 only to find that the 8000 series blows it away.
I have an Audioengine D1 USB DAC and I can't recommend it enough. I got it for the same reason as you, lack of internal space, and I find it way better than an internat sound card. No stuffing around with drivers to switch to headphone, just plug them in and it switches. Plus it's portable, so I can bring it with me to use on my MacBook if I want nice sound out of that.
doniewhalberg
Member
Thanks for the replies guys regarding the DAC. It occurs to me, I still have the transmitter box thing thing from my old turtle beach x41's, that has headphone input. If I plug that in the pc, and headphones into that, will the dolphy headphone/7.1 work that way? Thing looks like this:
I get it won't be as good as an actual purchased external DAC, but would the 7.1 work at all with say a pair of seinheissers? I don't have drivers or software for it so not sure how the pc would recognise it. Basically looking to get a nice pair like the ATH-AD700's in the OP, or sennheisers or something, and then surround through them, will obviously buy a DAc if necessary, but if this thing will do the trick, it'd be some cash saved.
I get it won't be as good as an actual purchased external DAC, but would the 7.1 work at all with say a pair of seinheissers? I don't have drivers or software for it so not sure how the pc would recognise it. Basically looking to get a nice pair like the ATH-AD700's in the OP, or sennheisers or something, and then surround through them, will obviously buy a DAc if necessary, but if this thing will do the trick, it'd be some cash saved.
You can cut the sound card, onboard should be plenty good. Unless of course you are getting headphones that require something extra to make it sound good. Onboard is plenty for most.
If you can survive with just 250GB SSD then sure a HDD is not needed. The reason for the extra HDD is because most would not be able to live on 250GB.
Use http://pcpartpicker.com/ to get the best prices. You will get the best prices by splitting between different shops
NinjaCatfish
Member
It actually might. Most "7.1 headphones" are just stereo headphones using a Dolby Headphone effect, so it should work regardless of which pair you use. Might be worth checking whether the 3.5mm out still can take advantage of the Dolby Headphone though, just in case they crippled it to stereo only for that port.
doniewhalberg
Member
Good shout. I checked their site FAQ and they describe the headphone out jack for the purpose of "allowing a second player to hear the same dolby surround" as the wireless headset, so it's a possibility. Think I may stagger my purchase, get a pair of headphones, and try. Worst comes to worst, I then have to buy a DAC I would have had to buy anyway. IF it comes to that, I'll take your recommendation down when I look. Cheers for the feedback, I'm lost when it comes to headphones. Attempting to move up and beyond you're average ripped off turtle beach user haha. I have further, entirely headphone choice based questions but I've moved that over to the headphone gaf thread to avoid taking up space here. If anyone can help me there, cheers
Alright, so my main hard drive finally died on me altogether, and I've been wanting to upgrade my rig for a while. The thing was a Dell OEM build and had an LGA 1136 chipset, so there's not really much I could do for upgrading the processor and it overheated like crazy during anything particularly processor intensive, so I think it's time to build a big boy machine.
This is what I'm looking at right now.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Cases, Black Pearl (FD-CA-DEF-R4-BL-W) - $104
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637I73770K - $320
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK Intel Z77 DDR3 LGA 1155 Motherboards - $127
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 GDDR5-2GB 2xDVI/HDMI/DP OC WINDFORCE 3X Graphics Cards GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0 - $260
SSD: Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB Sata 2.5-Inch - $170
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) - $34
Sound: ASUS Xonar DGX PCI-E GX2.5 Audio Engine Sound Cards - $40
Total cost for parts: $1,055
I've got plenty of parts from the last machine that should be able to use at least temporarily so that I can keep the up front costs down and then just replace them with newer/better parts over time. I plan on stealing the power supply (I forget exactly what it is off the top of my head, but the wattage should be more than sufficient to start), RAM (3x4GB Corsair), Blu-ray drive, DVD-RW drive, and the 2TB second hard drive to round out the machine and get it up and running. Eventually I'll replace the PSU and RAM for sure, since the idea is for this thing to keep me running for several years to come.
Any thoughts? This is my first time building a machine from scratch, but the only thing I've never really had experience with installing is the CPU. I'm going to check some of the links in the OP, but is there anything in particular I need to know about that in particular?
This is what I'm looking at right now.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Cases, Black Pearl (FD-CA-DEF-R4-BL-W) - $104
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80637I73770K - $320
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LK Intel Z77 DDR3 LGA 1155 Motherboards - $127
GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 GDDR5-2GB 2xDVI/HDMI/DP OC WINDFORCE 3X Graphics Cards GV-N760OC-2GD REV2.0 - $260
SSD: Samsung MZ-7TD250BW 840 Series Solid State Drive (SSD) 250 GB Sata 2.5-Inch - $170
Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) - $34
Sound: ASUS Xonar DGX PCI-E GX2.5 Audio Engine Sound Cards - $40
Total cost for parts: $1,055
I've got plenty of parts from the last machine that should be able to use at least temporarily so that I can keep the up front costs down and then just replace them with newer/better parts over time. I plan on stealing the power supply (I forget exactly what it is off the top of my head, but the wattage should be more than sufficient to start), RAM (3x4GB Corsair), Blu-ray drive, DVD-RW drive, and the 2TB second hard drive to round out the machine and get it up and running. Eventually I'll replace the PSU and RAM for sure, since the idea is for this thing to keep me running for several years to come.
Any thoughts? This is my first time building a machine from scratch, but the only thing I've never really had experience with installing is the CPU. I'm going to check some of the links in the OP, but is there anything in particular I need to know about that in particular?
No, you don't need a regular HDD if you have a 250GB SSD.
You could drop the sound card, drop the HDD, and drop the DVD burner. Change the ram to 8GB of DDR3 1600MHz. If you live near a Microcenter, you can get a good deal on a proc/mobo combo. If you live in the Pac NW, you can have a free case from me.
Looks super solid. The Fractal Arc Midi R2 is on sale for $70 right now.
It has hit that sale price here a few times. Friend bought it for $285. Wish I would have jumped on that as well.
doniewhalberg
Member
EDIT: meant to ask in the steam thread, nvm
I am oscillating between building a new system with an i7-4770K or waiting for the new Ivy Bridge-E 6 cores. More than likely, the build will only have only one GPU ( something like a gtx 770 4GB), and I game at 2560x1440.
Assuming the IPC of the Haswell is still relatively better than the new Ivy-E, can someone explain to me a situation where it would be better for gaming to get one of the 6 core CPUs? I play a lot of strategy games like Total War games, and I have heard that more CPU power can help with AI etc on those, but I am struggling to find any benchmarks or concrete examples of where this would help for gaming.
If the TIM is better on the Ivy-E's, presumably the overclock could be better or is that wishful thinking?
Thanks in advance.
Assuming the IPC of the Haswell is still relatively better than the new Ivy-E, can someone explain to me a situation where it would be better for gaming to get one of the 6 core CPUs? I play a lot of strategy games like Total War games, and I have heard that more CPU power can help with AI etc on those, but I am struggling to find any benchmarks or concrete examples of where this would help for gaming.
If the TIM is better on the Ivy-E's, presumably the overclock could be better or is that wishful thinking?
Thanks in advance.
Ivy Bridge-E 6 core will be in a totally different price class compared to a i7-4770K, the chip you'd be looking at would be the 4820K for IB-E, and would be a much better option than a 4770K providing you don't mind the cost of an X79 mobo.
IB-E won't have the same cheap TIM as Haswell, it'll be properly soldered.
Looks like it's 700, not 750, and not the most reliable either. I'll upgrade to a quality one somewhere in the 900-1000 range, thanks guys.
On another note, I'm considering holding off on SLI 780s and picking up two 9970s in October. How's Crossfire these days?
And finally, if I'm gaming at 1440p on a pair of 9970s (or 780s) am I in danger of my 2700k @ 4.4 bottlenecking me?
Yeah, I realize the Ivy-E 6 cores will be more. I am assuming there will be a $500 option which is what I am considering. I'm not as concerned about the cost if it will make the games perform significantly better.
I'm thinking of purchasing an H100i and was wondering how you guys would recommend setting up the fans.
I'm going to mount the H100i to the front of the case since I dont't want to remove the foam padding in the top vents of my R4. Will that setup be OK with a single rear exhaust fan? I have an OC'ed 3820 and a reference 680 (blower style cooler) if that helps.
I'm going to mount the H100i to the front of the case since I dont't want to remove the foam padding in the top vents of my R4. Will that setup be OK with a single rear exhaust fan? I have an OC'ed 3820 and a reference 680 (blower style cooler) if that helps.
Yeah, just fine. No room for HDDs though.
It also streams better.
That's about it. I hate hate hate speculation, but if I were to say how it'll do on future games, I'd say there's no way a 4820K or 4770K will be tapped out.
I'm not certain on Total War, but the big difference will be the realistic OC you will be able to put on it. You're looking at 4.5-5.0 instead of 4.0-4.5. This is due to the heat spreader being soldered on.
It also streams better.
That's about it. I hate hate hate speculation, but if I were to say how it'll do on future games, I'd say there's no way a 4820K or 4770K will be tapped out.
Anybody?
A decent 750W or 850W PSU is more than enough for SLI 780's. Some good options out there are: Seasonic X-750/X-850, Coolermaster V700/V850, Corsair AX760/AX860 (basicly all the same but different branding, get whichever is cheapest where you live).
Hey guys. I'm looking to upgrade my PC that I've had since ~2008. I'm at Uni just now so would rather keep this machine if possible but I'm open to a whole new system if the cost of the upgrade would be around the same money.
Here's what I currently am running.
The whole point of my upgrade will be for Rome 2, and the recommended requirements for that are:
I'm already gonna upgrade the RAM and get a SSD. I suppose my main question is should I upgrade the MB/Processor or Graphics cards? Or both even, which would essentially mean replacing anything.
Here's what I currently am running.
Code:
CPU Type: TripleCore AMD Phenom X3 Black Edition 8750, 2400 MHz (12 x 200)
MB: Dell XPS 625
RAM: 4GB
Graphics card: ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series (512 MB) x2(crossfire)
HDD: 1TBThe whole point of my upgrade will be for Rome 2, and the recommended requirements for that are:
Code:
Processor: 2nd Generation Intel Core i5 processor (or greater)
Memory: 4GB RAM
Graphics: 1024 MB DirectX 11 compatible graphics card.I'm already gonna upgrade the RAM and get a SSD. I suppose my main question is should I upgrade the MB/Processor or Graphics cards? Or both even, which would essentially mean replacing anything.
Not usually. Most prebuilts use shitty standard cases. Where are you based? Some gaffers will build for other gaffers.
I haven't seen any pre builds in those. I'm sure someone will correct me. Have you check out some how to videos that are in the OP. Building a PC is a lot easier than it first appears.
smokeandmirrors
Banned
What are the odds my ethernet port is busted on my new mobo? It won't connect out at all but it still flashes lights.
Is there anything I can do? I've deleted the driver and reinstalled it, I've done everything short of reinstalling windows (again) and I'd rather not do that at the moment unless I have to...
Is there anything I can do? I've deleted the driver and reinstalled it, I've done everything short of reinstalling windows (again) and I'd rather not do that at the moment unless I have to...
I have no problem building a regular mid or even full tower cases. It's the small form factor cases I might have trouble with.
I'm based on the east coast U.S.
It's no different. Just a little more fiddly with wire stuffing.
Upgrade it all.
Mr. Wonderful
Member
A 770 with memory overclocked close to 8GHz is going to have the bandwidth of ~256Gbps, which is just under the 7970's 264Gbps stock. (Of course, the 7970 can be overclocked, too!).Gaming at 1440 I would go with the 7970 because of the 3GB memory and the wider bus. That website you are buying from only seems to have XFX though. Try to avoid those, many have said the cooler on that is worse than the reference design.
as for competing with consoles. I doubt you can go wrong going with either brand and TressFX is a DirectX 11 feature, works on Nvidia
My point is more that the "Go AMD if going with more VRAM" advice seems bunk to me, given that GDDR5 bandwidth is calculated by Effective Speed (MHz) x (Memory Bus Width (bits) / 8).
question : i am currently on drivers 320. 49 but those are causing issues with ENB's in skyrim .
so i want to go back to 314 .22 as was said on the OP.
the thing i wanted to ask is is booting into safe mode a requirement for uninstalling drivers before installing the old one ?
so i want to go back to 314 .22 as was said on the OP.
the thing i wanted to ask is is booting into safe mode a requirement for uninstalling drivers before installing the old one ?
SirButterstick
Banned
OK, I just installed my very first SSD. It seems like it's working fine, but when I boot up, I can see a flash of another screen between BIOS and Windows where I see the drive listed as '''Unallocated." What does this mean, and should I be concerned?
I have a Sabertooth X79 as my MB.
I have a Sabertooth X79 as my MB.
Hello, NeoGAF!
I've been following this thread for a few months while my NeoGAF account lingered in activation purgatory. Anyway, I've recently purchased components for my new computer three weeks ago. My motherboard was DOA so I had to send it back to the manufacturer last week. Fortunately, it looks like my replacement motherboard will arrive this Friday or Monday. I still have Pikmin 3 to keep me busy for a few more days, but I'm so ready to game on my new build!
Here's my build. Let me know what you think. Yes, I went with Haswell, which I know is generally unpopular around this thread. However, it was the same price as Ivy at Microcenter and the emulation/video editing gains were enticing. If I plan on OC'ing past 4.2-3 GHz, I'll definitely consider deliding, even though the thought scares the crap out of me. And sorry, no SSD. I don't think they're necessary.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium Grey Silent ATX Mid Tower Case
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming Motherboard
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 770 2GB
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1600 MHz
HDD: Western Digital Black 1 TB
PSU: SeaSonic SS-750KM3 750W (possible dual card setup down the road)
Monitor: ASUS VG248QE 24" 144 Hz
I've been following this thread for a few months while my NeoGAF account lingered in activation purgatory. Anyway, I've recently purchased components for my new computer three weeks ago. My motherboard was DOA so I had to send it back to the manufacturer last week. Fortunately, it looks like my replacement motherboard will arrive this Friday or Monday. I still have Pikmin 3 to keep me busy for a few more days, but I'm so ready to game on my new build!
Here's my build. Let me know what you think. Yes, I went with Haswell, which I know is generally unpopular around this thread. However, it was the same price as Ivy at Microcenter and the emulation/video editing gains were enticing. If I plan on OC'ing past 4.2-3 GHz, I'll definitely consider deliding, even though the thought scares the crap out of me. And sorry, no SSD. I don't think they're necessary.
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Titanium Grey Silent ATX Mid Tower Case
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming Motherboard
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 770 2GB
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 2x4GB DDR3 1600 MHz
HDD: Western Digital Black 1 TB
PSU: SeaSonic SS-750KM3 750W (possible dual card setup down the road)
Monitor: ASUS VG248QE 24" 144 Hz
Make sure that RAM is low profile and not the stuff with silly heat sinks.
SSDs are godly btw.
maneil99
Member
I've finally decided my CPU must have degraded, what a shame, cannot believe it happened in only 5 months, must have done too much prime95. Either that or switching from an 8x PCI-E Slot to a 16x and getting a legal copy of windows did it. Considereing the 2 3570ks I have gotton ran at 4.4/1.36v and 4.5/1.288v what are the chances that a new chip will run better?
Just a friendly warning: If you are looking to build a new PC or upgrade memory, avoid this for the time being: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148544
I am using it but I bought mine a couple months back and it works fine. The customer reviews are not so great lately, and Crucial has even responded to some of them admitting that there are problems.
I am using it but I bought mine a couple months back and it works fine. The customer reviews are not so great lately, and Crucial has even responded to some of them admitting that there are problems.
Installed on Intel or Marvell controller? If it's working fine, you can disable the storage controller setup screens from appearing in the Bios.
Luck of the draw when getting OC CPUs, could be better, could be worse or could be the same. And, a 0.008V increase is hardly anything to worry about. Could be anything. Maybe, CPU wasn't really stable at 1.280V before, CPU degrade, PSU degrade, MB degrade and/or etc.
Interesting. One of my friends just installed 32 gig of this with no problems.
Future PhaZe
Member
Any truth to the general thought that the 1x8gb is good while the 2x4gb's are trash?
I'm hearing most DoA issues are with the 4gbs
I have an 8gb single that's just fine.
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