That sucks. I too have it (2x4gb), but also bought mine in March. They've done quite well for me, no isssues, bummer that's happening.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 2. Haswell = #IntelnoTIM, but free online. READ THE OP.
- Thread starter Hazaro
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That sucks. I too have it (2x4gb), but also bought mine in March. They've done quite well for me, no isssues, bummer that's happening.
MB are usually dual or quad channel. Thus, you want to run your memory in pairs, 2X4, 2X8, 4X4 or 4X8. If not, your memory bandwidth will only be the half performance.
It is about a 10-15% difference these days. I'm willing to bet the single stick came for free with a motherboard.
kennah said:
Thanks.
However, I still think SSD's are a luxury, not a necessity--at least for the moment. I wanted to upgrade my monitor more than I wanted faster boot times and game loads. I'll pick one up when I'm paying way less than $1 a GB.
Yeah, it's the low profile Vengeance. I made sure of that.kharma45 said:
Anyway, I forgot to post my before picture. Unfortunately, it's going to be a few more days until I have the after picture. Lame!
The boot time and game loads are irrelevant, I agree. It's that every single thing you do in windows is faster.
Every. Single. Thing.
Thanks. BTW not sure if you remember this post but I figured out the cause of the high temps. I had the pump plugged into a header that was under fan control via the BIOS. The pump would only run at around 500RPM on boot. I ended up disabling fan control and it resolved my issues.
Could someone look over this build for me? http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1p4e6
In gaming, the difference is 10-15% because it's mostly based on your GPU. But, it's a big difference in system memory bandwidth (RAM). Do you have a link that shows differently recently?
2011: http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1779/3/
I should have thought of that. I had the same issue once. Glad it's fixed!
Future PhaZe
Member
yup and it did
I know about dual channel, I'll be going with another 8GB this weekend more than likely
SSD is game changer. I'm customizing a laptop and trying to get under a certain price, but now that I've got SSD on my desktop, I cannot build this laptop without one.
Even if it was 32gb just for OS and marginal stuff, it's worth every penny. They just don't offer drives that small for notebook custom builds so I gotta go with 120gb
Future PhaZe
Member
Jumped on my girls laptop that runs fine and doesn't have an SSD and it seems like there's a very visible and awful lag.
Can't imagine dealing with that shit anymore.
Can't imagine dealing with that shit anymore.
Almost zero seek times = no lag is what none SSD users have a hard time understanding why when we say once you go SSD you can never go back to a HDD. This is more important than talks about boot times, load times, read / write speed with SSDs.
Good thing the 1TB SSDs coming out now are at about $0.60/GB.
I couldn't imagine going back to a mechanical hard drive after making the switch to solid state. If I could only upgrade one thing in a computer, it would be putting an SSD in it.
maneil99
Member
Meh if its already degraded after 4 months then I am kinda sketched out. Thing was it was stable for 3 months at -0.005v, then had a whea, boosted it to +0.010v for a month, now its doing it again. Seems like a sketchy CPU. Wonder if Intel's RMA Chips are botched...
I doubt my temps increasing by 5-7c made it unstable. Maybe it was the PCI-E lanes. Either way luck should hopefully be on my side, 1 awful chip, one below average chip. Third time is the charm?
Kydd BlaZe
Member
Wait...how does an SSD improve lag? I know they allow much faster loading and what not, but what exactly are we discussing here in terms of lag?
Not network lag. Daily use lag. Instead of waiting a couple seconds for a program to open it is instant.
You really think it degraded in 3 months with volts lower than 1.4? I'm just curious. Some of my work buddies run their stuff at volts over 1.4 and have since Ivy Bridge launched.
edit: I see you posted that on overclock.net. They also run the hell out of their CPUs on high voltage. I sometimes wonder how many CPUs they go through when running at 1.55 volts and folding 24/7.
Haha! I'm loving all the response I'm generating in this thread.
For my biggest need at the moment, gaming, an HDD is more than adequate. I'm definitely upgrading to an SSD in the future (possibly during Christmas), but at the moment, I'd rather save up towards the wave of new game releases than spend my money on an SSD.
Yeah, and the 1 TB SSD's are also $600+. For anything lower than a 256GB (which is what I would purchase), it's nearly $1 a GB.
And this isn't an simple upgrade. This is a completely new build. I'll have plenty of time to add the bells and whistles in a few months.
For my biggest need at the moment, gaming, an HDD is more than adequate. I'm definitely upgrading to an SSD in the future (possibly during Christmas), but at the moment, I'd rather save up towards the wave of new game releases than spend my money on an SSD.
Keyouta said:
Yeah, and the 1 TB SSD's are also $600+. For anything lower than a 256GB (which is what I would purchase), it's nearly $1 a GB.
And this isn't an simple upgrade. This is a completely new build. I'll have plenty of time to add the bells and whistles in a few months.
I know this is kind of OT for the thread but you guys always have good suggestions. Can anyone recommend good backup software? I use my computer for work just as much as gaming and having a crash and losing all my shit before really sucked. I have been using the Windows backup but I would like something a bit more full-featured. I just finished my new build and got all my software installed so this would be an ideal time to get a fresh backup in.
My cousin asked me to help him build a PC for around $1500 (not for gaming--it's primarily a dev workstation / server and will also handle some video editing; I think it will likely host a number of VMs in the future as well). I know next to nothing about PCs so I asked some sysops at my company and they came up with this (http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1p5k0):
He said he can cannibalize peripherals / his monitor from other machines so I used the extra money on more power.
Does this look okay, GAF? Did my sysop friends steer me wrong? The only thing I knowingly skimped on was the graphics card and since my cousin doesn't play games I don't think it should matter too much.
PC Part Picker said:
He said he can cannibalize peripherals / his monitor from other machines so I used the extra money on more power.
Does this look okay, GAF? Did my sysop friends steer me wrong? The only thing I knowingly skimped on was the graphics card and since my cousin doesn't play games I don't think it should matter too much.
What version of Windows are you using? I'm actually quite fond of the backup option in Windows 8. Other than that I guess it depends what features exactly you're looking for.
I really love Acronis True Image. Easy to use but very powerful.
I use it to frequently image my entire drive (doesnt take too long with an SSD), clone HDD's to SSD's, boot recovery etc.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Okay, update on my situation.
I removed the GPU completely and started up the PC. I was able to get it to boot that way. I inserted the CD that came with the card and reinstalled that way.
Restarted and plugged in the GPU. Nothing. Removed the card again, and booted without it. Checked the folder where the CD was installing the drivers (ATI Technologies) and it's empty. Googling is suggesting this complicated process of modifying files, using registry cleaners, and whatnot. Most of the advice about it is a few years old as well.
Even I did somehow manage to get this working, I still don't know what the fuck I should do to ensure that I get all of the Catalyst options this time, which is the whole reason this mess got started.
Also, the hinge came off my PCI slot when I was removing the GPU. It doesn't look like it's broken, it just sort of... slipped off. And while I was moving my case to get a better view, one of the feet stand things slid off too.
Sigh. Fucking sigh.
I removed the GPU completely and started up the PC. I was able to get it to boot that way. I inserted the CD that came with the card and reinstalled that way.
Restarted and plugged in the GPU. Nothing. Removed the card again, and booted without it. Checked the folder where the CD was installing the drivers (ATI Technologies) and it's empty. Googling is suggesting this complicated process of modifying files, using registry cleaners, and whatnot. Most of the advice about it is a few years old as well.
Even I did somehow manage to get this working, I still don't know what the fuck I should do to ensure that I get all of the Catalyst options this time, which is the whole reason this mess got started.
Also, the hinge came off my PCI slot when I was removing the GPU. It doesn't look like it's broken, it just sort of... slipped off. And while I was moving my case to get a better view, one of the feet stand things slid off too.
Sigh. Fucking sigh.
I use Windows 7. My main problem with the Windows backup is it doesn't have as many management options as I would like and it just plain refuses to back up some of my files with an error. I had also heard restoration is somewhat of a pain but I have no real experience on that personally.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will check it out!
Not to beat a dead horse but $170 for a 250 gig Samsung 840 is .68 cents a gig. If you don't want an ssd that's fine, but we want to make sure you go into the decision with all the facts.
Ok, so just following up on this, the PSU in the old machine is actually weaker than I thought it was. It's only a 475W PSU. Given what I've got up here, what do you think I need as a minimum? 550?
Lionel Mandrake
Member
Tried downloading drivers from AMD site. Nothing. I start the install manager, it works, it says "Installation Complete (Warnings occurred during installation). View log for details." Open log and it says everything's fine.
No sign of Catalyst installed anywhere on my PC.
No sign of Catalyst installed anywhere on my PC.
lostsupper
Banned
Another vote for ssd.
It miiiight be ok, what brand and model number? Can you take a picture of the sticker on the side of the PSU and show us?
Tried downloading drivers from AMD site. Nothing. I start the install manager, it works, it says "Installation Complete (Warnings occurred during installation). View log for details." Open log and it says everything's fine.
No sign of Catalyst installed anywhere on my PC.
So you do not have the graphics drivers installed?
And the "ATI" folder you said was empty, that was the one at the top level of the C drive right?
Hmm, I'd have to open the case up again and poke around a bit. The short answer is it's probably not ok. It's the OEM PSU that came with the machine and seems to be a no name Chinese power supply, so if anything the stated wattage is probably wishful thinking.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
I used the ATI uninstaller to remove the drivers I had. Trying to reinstall them seems to have failed.
There are two folders in Program Files: "ATI" and "ATI Technologies", the latter being the folder that the ATI installer was set to install the drivers and Catalyst to. The ATI Technologies folder appears to be completely empty. The ATI folder has a few documents and such in it, but nothing very important looking.
If I reading your post right you tried to install the drivers without the card plugged in?
Without the card plugged in it should not install at all.
And with the card installed (as it is now) you are using the output from it to your monitor and not the onboard?
If you are using the output from the card (and thus the card is not 100% dead) do a system restore to the point before you started mucking around with the drivers, if you do and you no longer get any output from the card in windows or if it loads up the basic VESA drivers (what windows uses without a graphics card's own drivers installed) then the card is likely broken in some way.
Yeah, wouldn't count on it at all. Get a good PSU. They're worth the money.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
I'm using the output from my motherboard. When I try to boot with my card installed, I just get a black screen, even though I'm using the output from the motherboard (I get no signal when I use the output from the card either).
I don't understand what I could have done that could have bricked my GPU, All I did was use the ATI installer to remove drivers. How could that damage the card?
Well you did say that the performance went to crap before you tried mucking around with the drivers, maybe the power cycle after you removed the drivers pushed what ever was dying over the edge.
BTW What motherboard are you using? you don't happen to have an other PCIE slot you can drop the card into? (to check that something bad has not happened to the slot and not the card).
WonkyPanda
Member
Well, this is my rock stable OC on the gpu
Slightly disappointed to be honest. Most reviews I saw with the MSI card were easily getting +140-150 on the core clock; my memory clock is great, though.
I'm going to try out the Gigabyte rev 2.0 to see if I can get a better clock. Although, I'm starting to think the +20-25 I am seeking on the core clock would be negligible at best.
CPU has been rock solid at 4.2 1.25v
Slightly disappointed to be honest. Most reviews I saw with the MSI card were easily getting +140-150 on the core clock; my memory clock is great, though.
I'm going to try out the Gigabyte rev 2.0 to see if I can get a better clock. Although, I'm starting to think the +20-25 I am seeking on the core clock would be negligible at best.
CPU has been rock solid at 4.2 1.25v
I wasn't really willing to up my voltage like that. Probably why it wasn't stable in games. It completed bench tests, but would always crash during games.
Is that really what it takes? =\
I haven't tried overclocking the video since then, I just didn't want to ruin it. System is so stable as it is.
Is that really what it takes? =\
I haven't tried overclocking the video since then, I just didn't want to ruin it. System is so stable as it is.
Lionel Mandrake
Member
I have another slot, but it would require me to move some stuff around in the case to make the card fit.
Anyone know how Sapphire is about exchanging damaged products, if that is the issue?
Is it model BLS2KIT4G3D1609DS1S00? Four of those I assume?
anyone ?
maneil99
Member
I have to think so, I am not 100% positive simply because a few things changed, temps increased due to a different GPU that blows air around the case instead of out the back. The OS went from a cracked version to non cracked and I used a GPU that takes more power and I was using another 8 PCI-E lanes. There is a chance it could be the montherboard but I doubt it. You think it could be the MB?
Finally got my water cooling installed and my CPU Delidded and CLU used on the die. so my PC is just about finished (still a couple of aquabus cables to get). More details on parts used here: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=74343339&highlight=#post74343339. Shitty pic here:
And a real shitty pic of the bottom radiator, pumps, drain valve AND all the messy cables:
Pic of Aquaero 5:
Here is my temps before (edit: this is running on air, a Noctua DH14) running IBT (Intel Burn Test).
Now after water cooling here are my results. As an everyday build I will be running this in silent mode (pumps turned down and fans at low RPM).
Idle Temps, with pumps running at the standard sweet spot for flow (1 gallon a minute).
IBT Set to maximum, pumps/fan in quiet operation:
IBT Set to maximum, pumps/fans at max (2 Gallon a minute Flow Rate!). As you can see here there is an improvement but not much, the radiators I am using were chosen for their superior performance at low fan speeds.:
As mentioned my tests are with IBT, which stresses your CPU more than Prime95, however just for comparison here is a run with Prime95 with pumps/fans in quiet mode:
I also stressed my GPU's for an hour running Unigine Valley and the highest I saw a GPU get to was 45C, previously I saw as high as 75C. These cards are not (yet) overclocked. Here is a benchmark for fun:
All in all I am pretty happy with the results. There is still a fair bit of tuning to do in Aquasuite as well as adding a bunch more of temperature probes and setting up the Fill Meter. I have only scratched the surface with this Aquacomputer stuff but I am extremely impressed with it.
And a real shitty pic of the bottom radiator, pumps, drain valve AND all the messy cables:
Pic of Aquaero 5:
Here is my temps before (edit: this is running on air, a Noctua DH14) running IBT (Intel Burn Test).
Now after water cooling here are my results. As an everyday build I will be running this in silent mode (pumps turned down and fans at low RPM).
Idle Temps, with pumps running at the standard sweet spot for flow (1 gallon a minute).
IBT Set to maximum, pumps/fan in quiet operation:
IBT Set to maximum, pumps/fans at max (2 Gallon a minute Flow Rate!). As you can see here there is an improvement but not much, the radiators I am using were chosen for their superior performance at low fan speeds.:
As mentioned my tests are with IBT, which stresses your CPU more than Prime95, however just for comparison here is a run with Prime95 with pumps/fans in quiet mode:
I also stressed my GPU's for an hour running Unigine Valley and the highest I saw a GPU get to was 45C, previously I saw as high as 75C. These cards are not (yet) overclocked. Here is a benchmark for fun:
All in all I am pretty happy with the results. There is still a fair bit of tuning to do in Aquasuite as well as adding a bunch more of temperature probes and setting up the Fill Meter. I have only scratched the surface with this Aquacomputer stuff but I am extremely impressed with it.
I bought a bluetooth mouse today and I can't get it to pair with my computer. The motherboard that I bought has bluetooth support and I just installed the driver for it when I bought the mouse. I browsed Google hoping for a solution but nothing seems to work. There's a yellow sign under "My Bluetooth" that says Bluetooth Radio Device is not available. I'm running Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit.
If I'm not big into twitch gaming or multi-player FPS (generally more into third person action or Fallout/Skyrim type games), is a 144hz panel enough of a game changer to warrant a purchase, especially if I already have an IPS panel? Currently have a Dell U2410, and while it serves its purpose of "oo-pretty colors", I'm getting that itch to look into ways to improve my gaming experience (that or I'm bored and have money to burn).
Would love to hear about people's experience with 120/144hz, especially if they've moved off an IPS panel for it.
Would love to hear about people's experience with 120/144hz, especially if they've moved off an IPS panel for it.
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