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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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Smokey

Member
Got my EVGA SLI pro bridge:

13222807645_49ba929344_b.jpg

13223150874_b76d5bb8b1_b.jpg


Looks pretty slick.
 

cyen

Member
Got my EVGA SLI pro bridge:

13222807645_49ba929344_b.jpg

13223150874_b76d5bb8b1_b.jpg


Looks pretty slick.

Just for curiosity, what score do you got at 3dmark xtreme with those?

I score 9200 with 2 290x at stock (not really stock because they are 290x Tri-X that are factory overclocked but not that much), but i could have got two 780ti instead.

(Please dont be alot higher so idont have buyers remorse)
 

Smokey

Member
Just for curiosity, what score do you got at 3dmark xtreme with those?

I score 9200 with 2 290x at stock (not really stock because they are 290x Tri-X that are factory overclocked but not that much), but i could have got two 780ti instead.

(Please dont be alot higher so idont have buyers remorse)

I actually haven't had a lot of time to mess around with them due to work and other stuff. Haven't even OC'd them yet. Only bench I ran was Heaven 4.0 when I first got them a few weeks ago:

P0N4FtF.jpg
 

cyen

Member
I actually haven't had a lot of time to mess around with them due to work and other stuff. Haven't even OC'd them yet. Only bench I ran was Heaven 4.0 when I first got them a few weeks ago:

P0N4FtF.jpg

Will run Heaven later even thou Nvidia trounces AMD in this benchmark.
 

Stubo

Member
UK GAF cheap SSD alert!

Cross-post from the cheap ass gaffer thread:

Crucial 240Gb M500 SSD - £81.99 @ Amazon and ebuyer

Great deal for 240gb of super fast storage. Get on it PC GAF!
 

kiyomi

Member
UK GAF cheap SSD alert!

Cross-post from the cheap ass gaffer thread:

Crucial 240Gb M500 SSD - £81.99 @ Amazon and ebuyer

Great deal for 240gb of super fast storage. Get on it PC GAF!

Prices on that M500 line having been steadily going down over the past month or two. It's almost to the point where I'm wondering whether they're using lesser NAND. Just my paranoia though, I'm sure they're just as good as they were.

I'm not quite in the position to build my PC yet so I won't be picking one of these up (probably), but that's a great deal.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Tech support question: my PC is locking up randomly. Literally just comes to a halt, no blue screen or anything even after a ten minute wait. Happens whether just running Chrome or a game or anything. Was happening after a few hours of use but today it would happen within ten minutes of booting up. If I hard reset I can start-up just fine. Now, I am running Windows Memory Diagnostic in the "Extended" test which I know takes much longer but is more thorough, I believe. If that turns up negative, what's the next test?

One time in the past week I walked away and came back to my PC attempting to reboot (I guess it crashed while I was away), but stating it could not find a boot drive. I tried to proceed anyway and it hung up at the Asrock splash screen; after a hard reset it booted up just fine. I have a sinking feeling it is my OS SSD that is dyong, so I am not sure how to test that if so. It is an OCZ Vertex 2 40 GB.

Running Windows 7 64-bit. Any advice is appreciated.
Yup.
Got my EVGA SLI pro bridge:

Looks pretty slick.
Siiiiiiiiick.
 

Stubo

Member
Prices on that M500 line having been steadily going down over the past month or two. It's almost to the point where I'm wondering whether they're using lesser NAND. Just my paranoia though, I'm sure they're just as good as they were.

I'm not quite in the position to build my PC yet so I won't be picking one of these up (probably), but that's a great deal.
I'm honestly stuck between thinking they're going to keep steadily declining and possibly going above £100 again due to the pricing of the competition. The Samsung 830 series 256gb shot up rapidly after bottoming out around £120, and it's taken the 840 evo (which is roughly equivalent) a long time to finally fall to that same price point.

Regardless, this is the best value SSD around at the moment in my opinion :)
 

mkenyon

Banned
Crucial is in a good position to operate at a loss, as they are one of the very few companies that produce their own flash memory. I think Samsung might as well?

It could be that they're clearing stock in preparation for a new series of SSDs as well. They did something very similar when they were getting rid of M4 stock. I grabbed a 256GB and two 128GB M4s for a total of around $210.
 

Panzon

Member
Anyone here have experience with the Lian Li PC A51 case? It looks pretty good but idk about that reverse airflow tech

Damnit! My phone doesnt let me link the page for some reason. Please let me know though as Im strongly considering this case over the fractal R4
 

mkenyon

Banned
Anyone here have experience with the Lian Li PC A51 case? It looks pretty good but idk about that reverse airflow tech

Damnit! My phone doesnt let me link the page for some reason. Please let me know though as Im strongly considering this case over the fractal R4
I had the V700, which seems to be a prototype in a lot of ways, to the A51.

SADzkl.jpg


I'd say the major thing you'd be worried about is using a reference GPU. That'd blow hot air right out the back and it would rise into the intake. With a non-reference GPU, it would be solid.

You also lose the ability to run two cards, as the heatsink takes up the space where a second big card would go. Mine had the reverse issue of blowing hot air out of the PSU and would intake it through the front. That's probably why they switched the direction of airflow with the A51.

Compared to the R4, the R4 is going to be quieter and probably cooler. The A51 will be more compact and have that Lian Li aluminum quality, which is no small thing, IMO.
 
I've had this problem for a while now and I'm wondering if anyone knows if there's a way to fix it. I have a 2TB external drive that will go into a sleep mode after not being used for so long. You can't disable this "feature". So, the problem is, whenever the drive has to be accessed, seemingly at random or otherwise, it hitches my OS for a second. Doesn't seem to affect games, but things like iTunes, which access a lot of content on that drive will hitch. If the external is constantly in use, there is no issue.

Why does it hitch up my OS? It will make things like videos on websites stop for a second as well. Could flash be accessing this drive for some reason?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I've had this problem for a while now and I'm wondering if anyone knows if there's a way to fix it. I have a 2TB external drive that will go into a sleep mode after not being used for so long. You can't disable this "feature". So, the problem is, whenever the drive has to be accessed, seemingly at random or otherwise, it hitches my OS for a second. Doesn't seem to affect games, but things like iTunes, which access a lot of content on that drive will hitch. If the external is constantly in use, there is no issue.

Why does it hitch up my OS? It will make things like videos on websites stop for a second as well. Could flash be accessing this drive for some reason?
That's totally standard.
 
Yup.

Siiiiiiiiick.

Why "Yup"? Just because it is a Vertex 2 or because it actually sounds like it could be my OS drive failing based on the symptoms? I know V2s are shitty, but mine has already exceeded my expectations some how. Is there a way to run a diagnostic on the drive?
 

scogoth

Member
I've had this problem for a while now and I'm wondering if anyone knows if there's a way to fix it. I have a 2TB external drive that will go into a sleep mode after not being used for so long. You can't disable this "feature". So, the problem is, whenever the drive has to be accessed, seemingly at random or otherwise, it hitches my OS for a second. Doesn't seem to affect games, but things like iTunes, which access a lot of content on that drive will hitch. If the external is constantly in use, there is no issue.

Why does it hitch up my OS? It will make things like videos on websites stop for a second as well. Could flash be accessing this drive for some reason?

Windows is a serial OS meaning that if a command is issued that requires access on that drive then it waits for that data before processing that command and then continues on its merry way. Check in powers settings to see if the hard drive is being told to spin down after an amount of time. Unfortunately if its not in power settings then it may be the hard drive firmware and theres no way to stop it.
 

Bii

Member
I had the V700, which seems to be a prototype in a lot of ways, to the A51.

SADzkl.jpg


I'd say the major thing you'd be worried about is using a reference GPU. That'd blow hot air right out the back and it would rise into the intake. With a non-reference GPU, it would be solid.

You also lose the ability to run two cards, as the heatsink takes up the space where a second big card would go. Mine had the reverse issue of blowing hot air out of the PSU and would intake it through the front. That's probably why they switched the direction of airflow with the A51.

Compared to the R4, the R4 is going to be quieter and probably cooler. The A51 will be more compact and have that Lian Li aluminum quality, which is no small thing, IMO.

Where'd you get those red/white individually sleeved cables from or did you do them yourself?

Was thinking about putting some in my case but haven't settled on colors yet.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Why "Yup"? Just because it is a Vertex 2 or because it actually sounds like it could be my OS drive failing based on the symptoms? I know V2s are shitty, but mine has already exceeded my expectations some how. Is there a way to run a diagnostic on the drive?
Because it sounds like your OS drive could be failing. Those are all extremely common symptoms. Given that it's an older SSD, that's a second, weaker, point of reference.
Where'd you get those red/white individually sleeved cables from or did you do them yourself?

Was thinking about putting some in my case but haven't settled on colors yet.
Those were done by Psychosleeve. There's another guy that does an arguably better job, Ben at PrometheanMutations. Tell him Michael Kenyon sent you.
 

Panzon

Member
I had the V700, which seems to be a prototype in a lot of ways, to the A51.

SADzkl.jpg


I'd say the major thing you'd be worried about is using a reference GPU. That'd blow hot air right out the back and it would rise into the intake. With a non-reference GPU, it would be solid.

You also lose the ability to run two cards, as the heatsink takes up the space where a second big card would go. Mine had the reverse issue of blowing hot air out of the PSU and would intake it through the front. That's probably why they switched the direction of airflow with the A51.

Compared to the R4, the R4 is going to be quieter and probably cooler. The A51 will be more compact and have that Lian Li aluminum quality, which is no small thing, IMO.
Im probably never gonna SLI but the reference card bit is very disappointing
 

Vostro

Member
Alright Gaf I have a problem with the two monitors i just bought.

I bought 2 x Asus VN248. When I connect both monitors together, I get an "out of range" thing and I can't see anything on both of the monitors. But when I only connect one monitor, the monitor is working. One of the monitor is also suffering from black bars around the screen, even though it's set to the native resolution. I tried downloading to the latest AMD driver but didn't work. Also tried uninstall the driver and reinstall it back but still would'nt not work. Anyone know what the problem is? Could it be the monitor and not the driver?
 

scogoth

Member
Alright Gaf I have a problem with the two monitors i just bought.

I bought 2 x Asus VN248. When I connect both monitors together, I get an "out of range" thing and I can't see anything on both of the monitors. But when I only connect one monitor, the monitor is working. One of the monitor is also suffering from black bars around the screen, even though it's set to the native resolution. I tried downloading to the latest AMD driver but didn't work. Also tried uninstall the driver and reinstall it back but still would'nt not work. Anyone know what the problem is? Could it be the monitor and not the driver?

Don't use VGA use HDMI and check the resolution, if you are sending a signal bigger than the monitor then it won't show the image.
 

Jordoon

Member
My brother wants to build a new pc so I'm trying to put together a parts list for him. It just needs to be entry-level performance wise, but with the capability of upgrading in the future. He won't be overclocking and will be gaming at sub-1080p for a while (at least another year). Anyway here's the list I put together. He was hoping to be in the $600-800 range, anywhere I can cut costs? Any suggestions will be helpful.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($201.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($77.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($184.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($114.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($26.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $795.84
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-17 14:23 EDT-0400)
 

mkenyon

Banned
My brother wants to build a new pc so I'm trying to put together a parts list for him. It just needs to be entry-level performance wise, but with the capability of upgrading in the future. He won't be overclocking and will be gaming at sub-1080p for a while (at least another year). Anyway here's the list I put together. He was hoping to be in the $600-800 range, anywhere I can cut costs? Any suggestions will be helpful.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($201.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($62.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($77.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($184.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Case: Corsair 350D Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($114.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($26.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Total: $795.84
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-17 14:23 EDT-0400)
You could get a cheaper case and drop the DVD drive. Look for a better PSU, like the Antec BP550 or EVGA Bronze 500W.
 
Because it sounds like your OS drive could be failing. Those are all extremely common symptoms. Given that it's an older SSD, that's a second, weaker, point of reference.

Thank you for the input, sincerely. What is the best way to proceed in terms of putting a new SSD in there with Windows? I have nothing on the dying drive that I care about recovering, so should I simply disconnect it then connect a new SSD and install Windows?
 

kiyomi

Member
My brother wants to build a new pc so I'm trying to put together a parts list for him. It just needs to be entry-level performance wise, but with the capability of upgrading in the future. He won't be overclocking and will be gaming at sub-1080p for a while (at least another year). Anyway here's the list I put together. He was hoping to be in the $600-800 range, anywhere I can cut costs? Any suggestions will be helpful.

Try this;

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($195.00 @ Canada Computers)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Canada Computers)
Memory: Patriot Viper 3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($289.99 @ NCIX)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($48.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.50 @ Vuugo)
Total: $798.20
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-17 14:40 EDT-0400)

- Slightly cheaper RAM, same specs.
- Significantly faster GPU, should see him very happy at 1080 for a while, or sub-1080 for even longer.
- Cheaper case, although it is a budget case, does he really need something fancy?
- More solid PSU for the same price.

If he really wants to cut costs he could go down to a Sapphire 270X which would be $237 instead, and it'd be better than the 750 Ti.
 

Jordoon

Member
Ok I cut down the price a bit. I want to keep the blue ram because it will look good with that mb, and 6 bucks isn't a big difference. Also gonna go with the BP550 because its semi modular which should make it a little more neat in that smallish case.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($195.00 @ Canada Computers)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($50.99 @ Canada Computers)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($90.98 @ Newegg Canada)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.75 @ Vuugo)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card ($174.99 @ Memory Express)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($48.99 @ NCIX)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80+ Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ Amazon Canada)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.50 @ Vuugo)
Total: $714.18
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-17 14:52 EDT-0400)

Thanks for the help guys.
 

Stubo

Member
Is there anything horribly wrong with the Corsair CX750M?

A friend is looking to build a PC soon and I'm thinking of using this as it would be ready to SLI 770s/780s in the future if he decides to go that route. Other suggestions around this price point are welcome!
 

mkenyon

Banned
Thank you for the input, sincerely. What is the best way to proceed in terms of putting a new SSD in there with Windows? I have nothing on the dying drive that I care about recovering, so should I simply disconnect it then connect a new SSD and install Windows?
No prob! And yeah, just reinstall windows on a new SSD.
Is there anything horribly wrong with the Corsair CX750M?

A friend is looking to build a PC soon and I'm thinking of using this as it would be ready to SLI 770s/780s in the future if he decides to go that route. Other suggestions around this price point are welcome!
Don't buy a cheap PSU when you're looking to power $800-1000 in videocards. Get something like a Coolermaster V700, Seasonic 750/760, Corsair AX760/760i, or XFX Pro Series 750.

The CX series is not great at all.
Came to think about Bluetooth, is it possible to install one internally?

Btw, I'm getting a new GTX 780 on Thursday!
Yeah, there's internal Bluetooth cards, many of which are paired with a WiFi adapter.
 

Calibur

Member
Yes, fill out the OP bullet point list.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3bx1G

CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($20.50 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 20g Thermal Paste ($18.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 LE ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($227.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($720.73 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.33 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($137.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2147.16 works out about £1318.05

I want it to be future proof and up-gradable to upto 3 years, but is there any areas i can cut costs down? Any suggestions will be helpful.
 

maneil99

Member
Is there anything horribly wrong with the Corsair CX750M?

A friend is looking to build a PC soon and I'm thinking of using this as it would be ready to SLI 770s/780s in the future if he decides to go that route. Other suggestions around this price point are welcome!

CX series isn't very high end and if you are talking about two high end gpu's in SLi you are better off getting a good 750-800w PSU esp if he wants to overclock at all.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151132

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207023
 

Stubo

Member
Don't buy a cheap PSU when you're looking to power $800-1000 in videocards. Get something like a Coolermaster V700, Seasonic 750/760, Corsair AX760/760i, or XFX Pro Series 750.

The CX series is not great at all.
I feared as much. It's just me trying to keep the build under budget, but ready for a future upgrade to SLI.
 
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3bx1G

CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($20.50 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 20g Thermal Paste ($18.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 LE ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($227.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($720.73 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.33 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($137.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2147.16 works out about £1318.05

I want it to be future proof and up-gradable to upto 3 years, but is there any areas i can cut costs down? Any suggestions will be helpful.

what kind of monitor? What do you want out of gaming? cutting corners, downgrade from 780ti to 780 for about 10% less performance but save $200
 

mkenyon

Banned
I feared as much. It's just me trying to keep the build under budget, but ready for a future upgrade to SLI.
IMO, don't ever build for "maybe future SLI", as when that time comes around, there's probably a better single GPU to buy, which is almost always a better choice. Sell the current card for what you can get, and upgrade to the single best GPU possible.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3bx1G

CPU: Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($529.99 @ Micro Center)
CPU Cooler: Intel BXRTS2011AC CPU Cooler ($20.50 @ Amazon)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 20g Thermal Paste ($18.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus P9X79 LE ATX LGA2011 Motherboard ($227.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($159.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($66.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($54.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card ($720.73 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill BlackHawk ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.33 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro - 64-bit (OEM) (64-bit) ($137.97 @ OutletPC)
Total: $2147.16 works out about £1318.05

I want it to be future proof and up-gradable to upto 3 years, but is there any areas i can cut costs down? Any suggestions will be helpful.
Going for my afternoon run, I'll get to this when I get back.
 

x3sphere

Member
If anyone is considering the dell 4k monitors I suggest staying away from them for now. I bought a UP3214q, turns out the firmware these units (UP2414Q included) are shipping with are bugged. The monitor will lose connection with the video card randomly on sleep, and sometimes boot up with half the screen blank. It was originally thought this was a driver issue but turns out it is a problem with the monitor firmware itself.

A rep on the Dell forums says they will not be releasing a user installable firmware either, you'll have to exchange your monitor with a refurb from Dell to get one with the fixed firmware.

Needless to say, I'm not going to exchange my brand new monitor that has no other defects for a refurb, so I ended up returning it.
 

Addnan

Member
Nobody does future SLI. SLI now or never because in a few months Maxwell will drop and it would be better to have the highest end of that.
 

Stubo

Member
IMO, don't ever build for "maybe future SLI", as when that time comes around, there's probably a better single GPU to buy, which is almost always a better choice. Sell the current card for what you can get, and upgrade to the single best GPU possible.
Nobody does future SLI. SLI now or never because in a few months Maxwell will drop and it would be better to have the highest end of that.
While I do agree with this point, it's a request that has been made of me!

Perhaps I should persuade him to wait for the new cards now the Witcher has been delayed.
 

f0nz0

Member
hey guys, so i built my 1st pc back in 2007

Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Conroe 2.13GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor BX80557E6400
Western Digital Caviar SE WD2500JS 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive Bare Drive
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-
EVGA 640-P2-N821-AR GeForce 8800 GTS 640MB 320-Bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
ASUS P5B-E LGA 775 Intel P965 Express ATX Intel Motherboard
OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI 600W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply


i desperately need an upgrade, whats the cheapest route i can go that will get me xbone/ps4 quality graphics (1080p@60fps)?? ive been out of the loop for a while.. but i DID purchase a laptop recently with 755m SLI... i just want to beef up my desktop as well.. again at lowest possible cost

i already have
case (antec 900)
keyboard
Mouse,
OS
 
hey guys, so i built my 1st pc back in 2007

Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 Conroe 2.13GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor BX80557E6400
Western Digital Caviar SE WD2500JS 250GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Hard Drive Bare Drive
G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-
EVGA 640-P2-N821-AR GeForce 8800 GTS 640MB 320-Bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
ASUS P5B-E LGA 775 Intel P965 Express ATX Intel Motherboard
OCZ GameXStream OCZ600GXSSLI 600W ATX12V SLI Certified CrossFire Ready Active PFC Power Supply


i desperately need an upgrade, whats the cheapest route i can go that will get me xbone/ps4 quality graphics (1080p@60fps)?? ive been out of the loop for a while.. but i DID purchase a laptop recently with 755m SLI... i just want to beef up my desktop as well.. again at lowest possible cost

i already have
case (antec 900)
keyboard
Mouse,
OS

suck it up and build a new rig. that mobo is gonna be the big problem. I'm gonna guess your old case might not be able to fit newer long high end cards.

You probably could get a c2q9550 or something on there, (might require bios flashing)...

but yeah 1080p 60fps for 'nextgen' games, would probably cost as much or more to upgrade vs build a new thing.
 
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