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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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I finally changed fans on my main build. One is a coolermaster blue led 120mm and the other is a nzxt 140mm. I've had two broken fans on this case (nzxt source 210 elite, I think) since I got it. One broke while putting it together, the other came broken. I no longer have to stack things on my case to get it to stop vibrating violently. Recently, it started rattling, so i said no more and bought two new fans.
 
I've never used more than one hard drive in a build before and I'm thinking of getting a cheap SSD for putting the OS on and nothing else. My question is, how do you designate the "main" HDD. I ask because I know some programs like Steam don't give you an option of where to install things. So how would I install Steam to my 1TB drive and not to the SSD?
 

mkenyon

Banned
I've never used more than one hard drive in a build before and I'm thinking of getting a cheap SSD for putting the OS on and nothing else. My question is, how do you designate the "main" HDD. I ask because I know some programs like Steam don't give you an option of where to install things. So how would I install Steam to my 1TB drive and not to the SSD?
Steam does give you an option of where to install things.

When you install a new program, you tell it where it gets to be installed. The option is always there outside of mandatory windows stuff.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yikes, 27-inch TN panel. My experience with big TN panels is very poor; the color at the top doesn't match the color at the bottom...

Can't judge these without seeing them though.
How much of this is based out of OCD, and how much of it is based out of being picky because that's what monitor folks like to pick at?

I don't mean to target you here, but there can't really be that many people that care this much when you're talking about a gaming panel. I can't even imagine how that'd be noticeable in a game.

If you're a graphics designer or do a lot of photoshop stuff for website creation or whatnot, that's one thing. But a gaming panel?

I'm sure the same could be said about me and blur, but blur really does affect graphic quality in games. A slightly different shade of a color doesn't, especially since colors are almost never uniform.

*edit*

I mostly regret my tone. I'm sorry in advance.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Would be interesting to see how far they go without the boat anchor iGP attached. Any word on TrueAudio being enabled?


In other news, I've got a Zalman clipmic and a cheap pair of Superlux cans coming in today, they're replacing an old Turtle Beach headset I've been using for a while.
LMK how you like em
RIP in Peace.

I need another one now. 650ti most likely.
650 Ti BOOST is best value if you can find one. A used 460, 650 Ti Boost, or a new 750 To should hold you over.
Oh shit.

All the power outlets in the room just went out for roughly an hour, then suddenly came back on after I randomly plugged a Side Socket into another outlet on the same floor. Since then, I've heard crackling from two of the outlets, one of them is the one behind my PC.

Prior to this I had two PCs hooked up in the room (both idle) and a heater. What is going on.

I have basically nothing turned on right now. My main PC is powered off and unplugged.
Get someone to check your wiring.
 

Stasis

Member
Oh shit.

All the power outlets in the room just went out for roughly an hour, then suddenly came back on after I randomly plugged a Side Socket into another outlet on the same floor. Since then, I've heard crackling from two of the outlets, one of them is the one behind my PC.

Prior to this I had two PCs hooked up in the room (both idle) and a heater. What is going on.

I have basically nothing turned on right now. My main PC is powered off and unplugged.

I'm no electrician but nothing good is going on. The crackling noise...

I'd suggest resetting the main breaker but I think this problem goes deeper =/
 
How much of this is based out of OCD, and how much of it is based out of being picky because that's what monitor folks like to pick at?

I don't mean to target you here, but there can't really be that many people that care this much when you're talking about a gaming panel. I can't even imagine how that'd be noticeable in a game.

If you're a graphics designer or do a lot of photoshop stuff for website creation or whatnot, that's one thing. But a gaming panel?

Mostly OCD if I'm being honest-- obviously the high refresh rate rules over better IQ in this case (and a lot of other cases too; reduced eye strain etc). But honestly at 800 dollars... we should have both.

Like I said though, not all TN panels are created equal, some are better than others. Can't really say this will be so extremely bad that it will be unbearable.

And TN-ness is most certainly noticeable, even while playing games.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, I know what you mean. Perspectives and all that.

To me, I'm never focused enough to tell if the water in Dota 2's river looks different on one side of the monitor than the other, or if the tan brick in a CS map is a different shade of tan. But if I move the camera quickly, and everything becomes a blurry mess, that rustles my jimmies pretty fierce.
 

scogoth

Member
FYI for rog screen is 10-bit TN vs 8-bit so that means the colours are supposed to be better than normal. Could be tech bs that only a person with a spectrometer would notice but gives me hope. Cause I'll probably buy 3
 

tigerin

Member
What is everyone opinion on newegg's DIY PC combo kit? Are those good prices for what they're offering? Or should I stick to the op for parts recommendation.
 
LMK how you like em

Can't speak about sound quality yet as I've not had much time with them. Preliminary opinion though after about two hours listening to music, nothing stands out as annoying. They sound pretty good actually.

Comfort is good, the headband feels very light on the head. However, the cans put pressure just behind my jaw which feels... odd. They should loosen up a bit over time, so it should get better. I've had them on for two hours and don't feel any fatigue or pain which is fantastic. They came with a set of pleather earpads installed by default, which I took one look at and decided weren't going to touch my skin, ever. Instead, I swapped them for the velour set that was also included. These feel great. So no pain, ear fatigue, or sweaty earpads-- pretty much perfect for comfort. <---- this IMO is what I'd consider most important for gaming.

Build quality is questionable, as they're mostly plastic. However, they don't rattle or creak while they're on my head, which is good. There are no outright signs that they will break. These aren't headphones you will be carrying around as they're quite big so they shouldn't be exposed to any danger. The cable is removable, but the plug on the cans is male, not female. So that's not a point of failure. And they don't feel flimsy, just cheap.

Aesthetically they look quite good actually, but that doesn't matter as they're so big nobody will ever see you wearing them away from your desk.

The mic is horrible, it picks up sound from every direction, lol. God damn it's bad. I've tried turning it down but even then I'm pretty sure it'll pick up my jet engine R9 290 trying to fly away. And it's making me regret getting a Cherry MX Blue keyboard. I'll try muffling it with a small sticker later to see if it won't diminish the fainter sounds. There might be a point of equilibrium with regards to volume vs background noise and my voice, but mostly I think the issue is it doesn't have any foam. So I may be able to correct it with a simple mod. Key here may be speaking louder with a lower volume set in the sound settings, keyboard way too loud + close to mic to tune out I think. Overall I wouldn't buy the mic over again.

The headphones though are pretty damn good I'd say. These are the ones I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWUHHYE/?tag=neogaf0e-20

This is the mic: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029MTMQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20
 
So 780 comes tomorrow. 3 monitor setup, which combination of cables is required for this to work? I recall having to do double mini dp and dvi to work on my ati card. For some reason hdmi wouldn't work.
 

Citizen K

Member
Hey PC gaf, I am currently planning a new build for my brother & family. They want a decent PC but really the main uses are going to be web browsing, homework and stuff like that. Not much gaming but I will try to get him into more PC gaming :p

I've outlined the build below but need a little help with the blanks as its been about 2 years sinceI built my current PC. So I'm not sure which mobo, PSU and gfx card to go for. Not gonna be overclocking. It'll probably be used for light gaming, half life 2 etc. Any tips for what I need or any suggestion on the stuff I have selected so far? the total so far is around £490 and the budget is £600-700


Case: Corsair 200R £46 ebuyer
PSU:
Mobo:
CPU: Core i5 4440 £128 amazon
RAM: Crucial 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz £60 amazon, ebuyer
GPU:
HDD: Crucial M500 240GB £84 ebuyer
Optical: Samsung 24x Retail SATA DVD Writer £13 amazon
Wifi: TP-Link TL-WN822N £15 amazon, ebuyer
Keyboard, Mouse: Logitech MK270 £20 amazon
Monitor (includes speaker): Iiyama XU2390HS £125 ebuyer
 

Bleepey

Member
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3fSoA

What does everyone think. It seems it will come to around £450 maybe even £400 if I shop around well enough. Any reasonable cost cutting measures? I heard the Palit GTX 660 ain't good for some reason and the 750 is apparently weaker than it. Any changes or recommendations?
 
Both cards work on the same workload at the same time so they must have access to the same resources in order to perform their calculations. This means that both GPUs need to have the same VRAM capacity so they can store mirrored data. Once the calculations are done the results are sent the master GPU which combines it with its own calculations and outputs it to the frame buffer.
Thanks, that makes more sense, but couldn't Nvidia and AMD implement a VRAM lock that blocks the adding of more data than what the lowest VRAM GPU has? So that would mean if you have a 1GB and a 2GB card, only 1GB of the 2GB will be used on the larger VRAM card.
 
Thanks, that makes more sense, but couldn't Nvidia and AMD implement a VRAM lock that blocks the adding of more data than what the lowest VRAM GPU has? So that would mean if you have a 1GB and a 2GB card, only 1GB of the 2GB will be used on the larger VRAM card.

I thought they did this already
udnneCA.png
 

scogoth

Member
Thanks, that makes more sense, but couldn't Nvidia and AMD implement a VRAM lock that blocks the adding of more data than what the lowest VRAM GPU has? So that would mean if you have a 1GB and a 2GB card, only 1GB of the 2GB will be used on the larger VRAM card.

I thought they did this already
udnneCA.png

Well yes one it hits the cap of the VRAM it can't use anymore. So then it uses system RAM, which is far far slower. Games are obviously designed to run on their minimum requirements but you can push VRAM usage up past what you have through resolution, AA, texture modes, etc.

This is just PC life, if you want to push your VRAM usage past what you have nothing is going to stop you.
 

RedSwirl

Junior Member
Okay I know this is moving into Electrician GAF but I found one bad power outlet. Had a burn mark on the outside and an exposed wire on the inside. Checked all the others on the affected fuse and none look burned on the outside.

Has anybody ever had electricity problems with more than one desktop in the same room?
 

scogoth

Member
Okay I know this is moving into Electrician GAF but I found one bad power outlet. Had a burn mark on the outside and an exposed wire on the inside. Checked all the others on the affected fuse and none look burned on the outside.

Has anybody ever had electricity problems with more than one desktop in the same room?

Yes but usually the breaker trips not burn the outlet.
 

LilJoka

Member
http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/3fSoA

What does everyone think. It seems it will come to around £450 maybe even £400 if I shop around well enough. Any reasonable cost cutting measures? I heard the Palit GTX 660 ain't good for some reason and the 750 is apparently weaker than it. Any changes or recommendations?

GTX 660 cheaper here
http://www.amazon.co.uk/GeForce-DirectCU-Graphics-DisplayPort-Surround/dp/B0098VKIRC/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1395711773&sr=1-2&keywords=gtx+660

And mATX board option
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00D6FEGF6/?tag=pcp0f-21

And an mATX chassis option
http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/components/cases/miniitxcases/FractalDesign/FD-CA-CORE-1000-USB3-BL.html?#utm_source=affiliatewindow&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=PCPartPicker
 

Smokey

Member
for most modern games at 1080p? naw.

but for power efficiency and not using your PC as a heater...maybe

So 780 comes tomorrow. 3 monitor setup, which combination of cables is required for this to work? I recall having to do double mini dp and dvi to work on my ati card. For some reason hdmi wouldn't work.

When I had my Titan I used two DVI cables and a displayport -> DVI adapter . This one here.
 

bro1

Banned
So my qnix monitor just died. 3 days of use and poof! They will cross ship my replacement which is nice. Hopefully my gtx 780 ti works better when it gets here
 

Ellite25

Member
So my backup of my HDD finally finished and I'll be installing W7 to my SSD.

So my question is, do I wipe the HDD now since W7 is installed on there as well? If so, is there a specific way to go about doing that?
 

LordAlu

Member
Hey PC gaf, I am currently planning a new build for my brother & family. They want a decent PC but really the main uses are going to be web browsing, homework and stuff like that. Not much gaming but I will try to get him into more PC gaming :p

I've outlined the build below but need a little help with the blanks as its been about 2 years sinceI built my current PC. So I'm not sure which mobo, PSU and gfx card to go for. Not gonna be overclocking. It'll probably be used for light gaming, half life 2 etc. Any tips for what I need or any suggestion on the stuff I have selected so far? the total so far is around £490 and the budget is £600-700


Case: Corsair 200R £46 ebuyer
PSU:
Mobo:
CPU: Core i5 4440 £128 amazon
RAM: Crucial 8GB DDR3 1600Mhz £60 amazon, ebuyer
GPU:
HDD: Crucial M500 240GB £84 ebuyer
Optical: Samsung 24x Retail SATA DVD Writer £13 amazon
Wifi: TP-Link TL-WN822N £15 amazon, ebuyer
Keyboard, Mouse: Logitech MK270 £20 amazon
Monitor (includes speaker): Iiyama XU2390HS £125 ebuyer
How does this look?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor (£127.19 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus B85M-G Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (£53.82 @ Scan.co.uk)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£61.96 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£81.46 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Video Card (£109.99 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case (£32.99 @ Novatech)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (£35.94 @ Scan.co.uk)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer (£11.72 @ CCL Computers)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) (£16.00 @ Reddit)
Monitor: Iiyama ProLite XU2390HS-B1 23" LED IPS Monitor (£125.00 @ ebuyer.com)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN3800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter (£19.98 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Logitech Wireless Combo MK270 Wireless Standard Keyboard w/Optical Mouse (£20.00 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £696.05
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-25 07:53 GMT+0000)

I've reduced the case down to the Cooler Master N200 (still an excellent case and a bit smaller), popped in a decent B85 mATX motherboard, good quality EVGA power supply, swapped the wireless adapter for one that fits inside the machine, included Windows and picked a suitable graphics card to go with it.
 

Mohonky

Member
So I'm at bit of a cross road. My PC is getting on a few years now and I get the occasional freeze etc despite recently reinstalling Win 8.1

Basically I don't know if it's worth upgrading right now, or whether there is some big leap about to hit on the CPU front.

Right now specs;

Intel Core i7 920
Gigabyte X38UDR (I think)
6gb DDR 1333mhz
nVidia GTX670
1tb Seagate HDD
Cooler Master 800watt psu
NZXT Phantom820

Anyway long story short, the CPU is going on quite a few years now, the ram along with it. I've also never gone with an SSD. The case and video card are fine for the moment but I'm wondering whether it's worth upgrading the CPU and ram at this point in time. With games taking advantage of next gen engines now and in the near future, will a CPU and ram upgrade net sizeable improvements in current games (Crysis 3 etc) or should just do a modest upgrade now and wait for the next best thing?
 

Mohonky

Member
If you haven't overclocked your 920 I'd do that and grab an SSD.

I did have it at 3.2hgz but it started getting a little unstable. Though maybe I should give all the fans a clean and give it another crack. it may not have been OC'd properly either as I am not very experienced in doing it.
 

Palom

Member
I finished building my PC this evening. I don't post much, but I lurk this thread often and appreciate all the advice given. Between this thread and the ease of putting something together through PCPartPicker, I had no problems.

Final specs:
Corsair 250D Mini ITX case
i5-4670k with H60 cooler
MSI Z87I AC motherboard
8GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance
EVGA GeForce GTX 760 (bought from Anustart here on GAF)
Corsair CX600M PSU
Crucial M500 120GB SSD

I'm upgrading from a Core 2 Duo E6700 OCed to 3.4GHz, 4GB DDR2-800, GTX 260 that was built in 2007 (GPU is from 2008). I spent more than I wanted, so I'm only reusing my old 320GB hard drive for storage, but I never came close to filling it up before. I was hoping to reuse my old DVD drive so I can read PS2 and Wii discs, but the drive is IDE and I have nothing to connect it to.

Speaking of connections, holy hell everything was bare-fucking-bones. All my motherboard came with were 2 SATA cables, WiFi antennae, and the backplate. PSU came with the bare minimum of cables. I had to jack a couple molex converters from my old PC to power the case fans since the motherboard only had connectors for 2 (both taken by the H60). There weren't even enough thumbscrews for the case (holes in four corners for drive bay and PSU cage; only came with three in each), so I pulled two off my old case....

Some pics, from my Nexus 4 potato:
ibpjHstdvzXBt5.jpg

Stack of boxes

iKVlvnDFUayc6.jpg

Empty case

ibg17JkXTfuZBt.jpg

Motherboard in, radiator in

ij5riwFta2Hur.jpg

CPU block installed

i42M9PCkc7cHZ.jpg

Top view

id7QR0TVmJbtD.jpg

All components in. Just did a little cable management before closing it up.

ifShvEWaUkzLl.jpg

The ceremonial peeling of plastic.

ibrh3eQ3UprxDW.jpg

Installed in its new home next to the couch. I had to remove the drawer from the table to fit my old mid-ATX case.

First try, it fired right up. This thing is so quiet compared to my old computer. I'm looking forward to overclocking it. Once I'm able to spare some more money, I'll upgrade to a 1TB storage HDD, a Blu-ray drive so I can read my PS2 and Wii discs, and wireless HDMI so I can broadcast to my TV instead of running an HDMI cable across the room. Now I'm just bummed I missed out on the cheap Skyrim Legendary Edition deal last week.

In any case, I appreciate all the useful discussion in this thread. It helped me out a bunch. Thanks.
 

kharma45

Member
I did have it at 3.2hgz but it started getting a little unstable. Though maybe I should give all the fans a clean and give it another crack. it may not have been OC'd properly either as I am not very experienced in doing it.

Yeah you should be able to get it up to around 3.6-4GHz for most chips.
 
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