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"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 2. Read the OP. Rocking 2500K's until HBM2 and beyond.
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
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What build of Windows 10 do you have? Home or pro edition? You need one of the most recent builds in order to be able to use a Windows 7 key to activate windows 10. Your edition of Windows 10 should also match the edition of the Windows key you have, in other words you need a very recent build (10565 or higher?) of Windows 10 Pro.
It might say that, but that's the same error people got when they didn't go through the upgrade and then clean install. Sooo, looks like you need to update. A Windows 7 key doesn't work when installing W10, and it never would.
No problem. Any changes you might want to make to the parts list?
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
Yo. I'm looking to swap out my 4x2GB DDR3 1600 8-8-8-24 for 2x8GB DDR3 until I do a full upgrade later next year. Video editing will benefit.
Should I stick with 1600(800MHz) or make the jump up to 2133? Same goes for timings; should I be careful with what sticks are rated at these days?
Should I stick with 1600(800MHz) or make the jump up to 2133? Same goes for timings; should I be careful with what sticks are rated at these days?
I'm on Pro, build 10586. My Windows 7 license was pro
Seems like kind of a pain in the ass if I have to buy a new license, gotta reinstall 10 and pick home since I would not pay for the Pro cost
nah all good but i gotta ask
suppose i got (or saved a bit more) and grabbed a titan X gpu
would the card itself be a big bump from the 980? or is that just epeen points?
Why not save same money and get a 980ti instead? Same GPU except only 6GB of VRAM.
opticalmace
Member
No, in some cases you might be worse off due to thermal throttling. 980 Ti is 100% the way to go.
The benchmarks are about the same. I have a Titan X and if it wasn't for it, I think I would have SLI'd the 980ti because of the price of a Titan X.
980ti is actually a cut down titan x though not by much.
Hey PC-Gaf! Has anyone experienced this issue:
I bought a new monitor: LG Ultra Wide monitor (34 UC87C). I have it plugged into my windows 10 PC via DP, I also have my receiver (and TV) plugged in via the HDMI port. Even though i have explicitly set the LG to by my primary display and set it to "Show only on 1" my monitor will turn off if the TV is off. It seems windows will only send a signal to the monitor if the TV is powered on.
Any help?
I bought a new monitor: LG Ultra Wide monitor (34 UC87C). I have it plugged into my windows 10 PC via DP, I also have my receiver (and TV) plugged in via the HDMI port. Even though i have explicitly set the LG to by my primary display and set it to "Show only on 1" my monitor will turn off if the TV is off. It seems windows will only send a signal to the monitor if the TV is powered on.
Any help?
Finaika
Member
Solid.
StarlordDial
Member
Got another issue it seems like... Windows keeps asking to download the win10 update now and you can upgrade later.. So I went to windows update ... All went well and shit .. It was 2.5+ giga of files .. Fine by me !
Then my monitor just shuts off by itself ? Dafuck !
I can't take it out of the black screen or access anything ... Everything is still on except the monitor which is not getting any signal .
Edit: just to clarify, it only happens on that part .. I don't wanna update it again ;_; too scared lol
I'm not planning to upgrade to windows 10 yet until all the stuff gets ironed it and i'm sticking with win8.1 but i just wanna downlod the update so I can upgrade later ;_;
Then my monitor just shuts off by itself ? Dafuck !
I can't take it out of the black screen or access anything ... Everything is still on except the monitor which is not getting any signal .
Edit: just to clarify, it only happens on that part .. I don't wanna update it again ;_; too scared lol
I'm not planning to upgrade to windows 10 yet until all the stuff gets ironed it and i'm sticking with win8.1 but i just wanna downlod the update so I can upgrade later ;_;
REMAINSILLY
Member
Guys, what are the top 3 AMD GPUs? Like NVIDIA's GTX 980, 970, 960?
demosthenes
Member
Windows 10 question for folks that have upgradedor maybe just know the answer to this.
My dad who is about 3k miles away from me accidentally upgraded his PC to Windows 10 today. My Brother who is currently living with him made it usable but said he's getting some message about the video card not being compatible.
He couldn't get me a picture of it at the moment to see what the exact error is?
Any ideas? I've been meaning to get the PC setup with Remote Desktop so I can fix it from here so I'm going to try and get him to set it up tomorrow. Any ideas?
My dad who is about 3k miles away from me accidentally upgraded his PC to Windows 10 today. My Brother who is currently living with him made it usable but said he's getting some message about the video card not being compatible.
He couldn't get me a picture of it at the moment to see what the exact error is?
Any ideas? I've been meaning to get the PC setup with Remote Desktop so I can fix it from here so I'm going to try and get him to set it up tomorrow. Any ideas?
Saucycarpdog
Member
Thinking about building a new PC, quick question:
Would an Intel Core i5-4460 pair good with a gtx 960 or would it bottleneck it?
Would an Intel Core i5-4460 pair good with a gtx 960 or would it bottleneck it?
opticalmace
Member
It would be fine.
If you want to save some money and don't mind spending some time, try installing Windows 7 and running the media creation tool to upgrade to Windows 10.
R9 Nano, R9 Fury, R9 Fury X. But if you meant direct competitors to the ones you mentioned, then that would be R9 390X, R9 390, and R9 380.
We need to know the system specs and what error it is. It's too vague of a problem if it's just some unspecific error message about it not being compatible.
manfestival
Member
RGM79, im curious. what kinda gains will I be seeing from upgrading my rig essentially from the amd 965 x4 to that xeon 1231? my mobo and ram will essentially be similar in quality and the GPU wont be seeing an upgrade for another month.
FYI I was doing some troubleshooting and my current CPU is spiking through the roof and giving me BSOD. think its dying?
FYI I was doing some troubleshooting and my current CPU is spiking through the roof and giving me BSOD. think its dying?
Look at the OP and find prebuilt PCs with similar specs, most important cpu and gpu, in your price range.
Should have checked that at first! Thanks!
edit: So I checked the OP and understand what you meant, but I was just wondering which companies would you trust to buy from and that would provide the best value (out of your own experience).
dragonlife
Member
lordfuzzybutt
Member
You can, if your new motherboard supports the same type of ram.
Can you tell us what is the model of the motherboard you plan for the new build?
Go ahead, there's not much of a downside if at all. Even if it wasn't, the nature of DDR3 and motherboard support usually means that the motherboard will automatically run all of the RAM at the lowest common supported speed.
Those two processors are far apart enough in age that my usual sources don't have any gaming benchmark comparisons between the two. The Xeon E3 1231v3 and the i7 4790 are fairly similar, the only major difference is that the Xeon lacks integrated graphics and is slightly slower by 0.2GHz. Here's a comparison of your AMD and the i7 4790 from Anandtech's bench. Suffice it to say, the Xeon processor blows the AMD processor out of the water easily.
You mean CPU temperatures are running extremely high and you are experiencing bluescreens? I'd suspect that something is wrong with the CPU cooler. Usually it's quite rare for processors to be defective, the quality control for processors is extremely tight and it's highly unlikely but I suppose not impossible for processors to become damaged/defective.
Check the CPU cooler, make sure the fan is running properly, that there is thermal paste between the cooler and CPU, that the cooler is properly and tightly secured against the processor and motherboard, etc.
I build my own so I can't help you with which prebuilt company to go with. Maybe, someone else can offer suggestions.
dragonlife
Member
I see, thanks.
This is the motherboard I'll be going with, so I should be good, going by what you both said http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130790
Well if you do run into problems, you'll just need to do a little bit of troubleshooting. Test each stick of new RAM in each slot, update the motherboard BIOS to the latest revision for best compatibility, etc.
Antiwhippy
the holder of the trombone
Goddamn, why do they make the driver DVD for graphics card basically impossible to comprehend? I just want to install drivers without going on the internet. 
I feel like it is an example of bad design when I find it easier to just download the drivers from the internet.
Anyway, got all my stuff good to go with no problems so I'm pretty stoked. The upgrade was for the case (fractal R4), GPU (960) and ram (16gb). Was good fun upgrading after a long time.
I feel like it is an example of bad design when I find it easier to just download the drivers from the internet.
Anyway, got all my stuff good to go with no problems so I'm pretty stoked. The upgrade was for the case (fractal R4), GPU (960) and ram (16gb). Was good fun upgrading after a long time.
You're supposed to download drivers off the internet. The ones on the disc are out of date by the time you get the card anyway.Goddamn, why do they make the driver DVD for graphics card basically impossible to comprehend? I just want to install drivers without going on the internet.
I feel like it is an example of bad design when I find it easier to just download the drivers from the internet.
Anyway, got all my stuff good to go with no problems so I'm pretty stoked. The upgrade was for the case (fractal R4), GPU (960) and ram (16gb). Was good fun upgrading after a long time.
Antiwhippy
the holder of the trombone
Hmm, yeah that's true. Still, the disc for some reason defaulted to japanese even though my system language is english? Just a weird experience all around.
Alright GAF. I found some good deals, and I nabbed them. I bought a case, a PSU, and an SSD. I still probably won't build the system till February/March, or maybe January depending on a few things, but I want to know what you guys think of the current haul:
Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Full Tower
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB6O4N8/?tag=neogaf0e-20
SSD: Samsung EVO 250GB
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/?tag=neogaf0e-20
PSU: EVGA Supernova 850 G2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018
Managed to save nearly $200 between the tree parts, so I'm pretty happy about that. I'll most likely buy all the rest of the guts together when build time comes, though if I see a nice deal on a 2 terabyte HD, I'll probably grab it early.
Case: Corsair Obsidian Series 750D Full Tower
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB6O4N8/?tag=neogaf0e-20
SSD: Samsung EVO 250GB
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/?tag=neogaf0e-20
PSU: EVGA Supernova 850 G2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438018
Managed to save nearly $200 between the tree parts, so I'm pretty happy about that. I'll most likely buy all the rest of the guts together when build time comes, though if I see a nice deal on a 2 terabyte HD, I'll probably grab it early.
Azzurri
Member
So the Acer Predator X34 bmiphz 34-inch Curved UltraWide (3440 x 1440) NVIDIA G-Sync is in stock on Amazon (3 left) and they are the new builds that should have fixed the QC issues the early builds had.
But it's 1,400 with tax, and I don't know if I want to drop that since I'm cheap
But it's 1,400 with tax, and I don't know if I want to drop that since I'm cheap
So I think fully trusting in the pcpartpicker compatibility deal was a mistake.
I purchased this ram: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0123ZC6CO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm using the MSI Gaming M7 motherboard. I got everything setup last night, but when I was in the bios I noticed that it showed my ram frequency as 2133. So I went to MSI's site and looked at the memory compatibility chart. My ram isn't listed.
http://us.msi.com/product/motherboard/support/Z170A-GAMING-M7.html#support-mem
Should I send the ram i bought back and get something from that list?
EDIT: Hmm. I see my memory listed on the OC memory support list. Do I just need to manually up the frequency then?
http://us.msi.com/product/motherboard/support/Z170A-GAMING-M7.html#support-ocmem
I purchased this ram: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0123ZC6CO/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm using the MSI Gaming M7 motherboard. I got everything setup last night, but when I was in the bios I noticed that it showed my ram frequency as 2133. So I went to MSI's site and looked at the memory compatibility chart. My ram isn't listed.
http://us.msi.com/product/motherboard/support/Z170A-GAMING-M7.html#support-mem
Should I send the ram i bought back and get something from that list?
EDIT: Hmm. I see my memory listed on the OC memory support list. Do I just need to manually up the frequency then?
http://us.msi.com/product/motherboard/support/Z170A-GAMING-M7.html#support-ocmem
Tesseract
Banned
here's my build, please criticize
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($82.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($116.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($82.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
That's exactly what you need to do. It doesn't automatically go above 2133. Motherboards will clock at the lowest to guarantee boot and technically anything over 2133 is an overclock anyway.
I'm so pissed. I was plugging in all my shit, and one of the USB 2.0 ports has this metal tab in front of part of it on the side.
I think it's something from the IO shield. Only way to fix is for me to unmount the mother board and fix the IO shield itself from my case. Son of bitch. Thought I suppose I could just try and cut the tab off?
Also, WTF MSI. They put this shield thing over the IO ports on the Mobo. However, that shield is mounted using the mount holes on the motherboard. The manual said nothing about it, but I had to remove that shield and the screws it was using, then lay the shield back on top and secure it and the mobo using my case screws. Otherwise the top left wouldn't have been screwed down.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...72&cm_re=msi_gaming_m7-_-13-130-872-_-Product
I think it's something from the IO shield. Only way to fix is for me to unmount the mother board and fix the IO shield itself from my case. Son of bitch. Thought I suppose I could just try and cut the tab off?
Also, WTF MSI. They put this shield thing over the IO ports on the Mobo. However, that shield is mounted using the mount holes on the motherboard. The manual said nothing about it, but I had to remove that shield and the screws it was using, then lay the shield back on top and secure it and the mobo using my case screws. Otherwise the top left wouldn't have been screwed down.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...72&cm_re=msi_gaming_m7-_-13-130-872-_-Product
There's no point in going with a more expensive small mATX size motherboard if it's going in a normal size ATX case. I'd pick a better power supply, there are higher quality models you can get for your money. Here's what I'd recommend:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($309.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($70.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card ($318.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $935.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-08 11:27 EST-0500
Costs a fair bit less, but is functionally identical and has the same level of performance (same CPU and graphics card). The RAM is cheaper yet faster, and the power supply is far better (EVGA B2 750 vs Corsair CX750M).
Tesseract
Banned
awesome, thanks for tweaking!
Saucycarpdog
Member
Ok, if I decide in the future to put a 970 would that still work?
opticalmace
Member
Yup. If you can afford it I would go for the 4690k though. Being able to overclock will give it more longevity.
Shifty Capone1
Member
So the Acer Predator X34 bmiphz 34-inch Curved UltraWide (3440 x 1440) NVIDIA G-Sync is in stock on Amazon (3 left) and they are the new builds that should have fixed the QC issues the early builds had.
But it's 1,400 with tax, and I don't know if I want to drop that since I'm cheap
As someone who just won one of these amazing monitors in a raffle and couldn't decided if I was going to keep it, get it. You can read a few pages back about the debate. After deciding to keep it, this thing is a beast. Absolutely amazing if you have the rig to run it. I ended up getting a water cooled 980ti and can barely run it. Bought another one and now I will never go back. It's amazing.
Azzurri
Member
Cool, I'm running dual 980's so I should be good.
Shifty Capone1
Member
You'll have a great experience. The thing really is a massive difference from my normal 1080p. I didn't think it was going to be super noticeable.
Azzurri
Member
I have a older 1440p Samsung that's was top of the line 3 years ago, but dat 21:9 34" curved in person is SOOOOO goood.
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