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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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LilJoka

Member
Voltage seems kinda high. I'd expect closer to 1.30 or 1.32V for 4.6ghz. Depends on your motherboard and LLC setting though.

Nah it's just below average, I run 1.32v 4.5Ghz. Probably pushing past the wall a tad, but if cooling allows, then why not.

Msi Xpower Gaming Titanium motherboard.

Yeah its not the lowest voltage but seen people running higher voltage too. I've got the voltage in adaptive mode too, so cpu and voltage down clock when not under load, so its not stressing the cpu all the time.

Might try getting it down a bit more when I get time but its stable and well within safe voltage, with good temps, so I'm not worried about it too much.

Adaptive will also need a bit extra than fixed.

Should definitely find the minimum required though, no point running (too much) more than needed.

What did you use to stress test?
 

pirata

Member
GAF, I need your help! I installed an SSD in my PC a while ago, but it's not doing anything right now, since I forgot most of what I learned about PC-building when I put together my machine almost five years ago and wanting the help of my computer-savvy friend, who is unfortunately out of the state for the summer. And now the Windows 10 deadline is coming up!


I'm currently running Windows 7 on my PC. How should I go about getting Windows 10 running from my SSD?



I'm sorry to repost, but I'm really scared I'm going to fuck everything up, since I'm getting a lot of mixed messages from online sources. Will I still be able to use the programs and files on my HDD (almost 2TB worth)? Some places are saying that nothing will be usable on the old drive due to missing .dll files and the like. Do I need to update from Windows 7 to 10 on my HDD before getting an operating system onto my SSD? I'm sorry, but I'm terrified I'm going to fuck myself over without guidance, and nothing I can find online seems clear or applicable to my situation.
 

LilJoka

Member
I'm sorry to repost, but I'm really scared I'm going to fuck everything up, since I'm getting a lot of mixed messages from online sources. Will I still be able to use the programs and files on my HDD (almost 2TB worth)? Some places are saying that nothing will be usable on the old drive due to missing .dll files and the like. Do I need to update from Windows 7 to 10 on my HDD before getting an operating system onto my SSD? I'm sorry, but I'm terrified I'm going to fuck myself over without guidance, and nothing I can find online seems clear or applicable to my situation.

You need to be more specific:
What is installed on the SSD right now?
What is installed on the HDD right now?
What is your end goal?
 

Adamator

Member
Anyone have an answer to this? (Sorry)

I decided to splurge a little more on my new PC and get myself another SSD. I'm going to go with a Samsung EVO 850 500 gb. I already have a Evo 840 256 gb.

Here is my possibly stupid question. Is one or the other better for my windows install? Does it matter? The second drive will be used for storage and maybe scratch disks for video editing.

My primary use for the computer will be editing, and some gaming.

Thanks.
 
I bought a G502 last year but returned it because I couldn't stand the scroll wheel. I ended up getting the G400s and couldn't be happier.

Scroll wheel is another thing that is currently driving me nuts. Its so floaty.

I might go pick up a corsair M65 pro rgb and try both out and return the one i dont like.
 
Nah it's just below average, I run 1.32v 4.5Ghz. Probably pushing past the wall a tad, but if cooling allows, then why not.



Adaptive will also need a bit extra than fixed.

Should definitely find the minimum required though, no point running (too much) more than needed.

What did you use to stress test?

Intel XTU and I've given Aida64 a blast too.

I was getting crashes before I got to that voltage but might be able to take it down a little bit maybe.

I was more focused on getting my RAM to run at 3000mhz at that point though, I had to bump the DRAM voltage up a bit from 1.35v to 1.37v because with the standard xmp setting wouldn't post at 1.35v
 

Bloodember

Member
Anyone have an answer to this? (Sorry)

I decided to splurge a little more on my new PC and get myself another SSD. I'm going to go with a Samsung EVO 850 500 gb. I already have a Evo 840 256 gb.

Here is my possibly stupid question. Is one or the other better for my windows install? Does it matter? The second drive will be used for storage and maybe scratch disks for video editing.

My primary use for the computer will be editing, and some gaming.

Thanks.
No, just use whichever you desire for Windows.
 

LilJoka

Member
Anyone have an answer to this? (Sorry)

I decided to splurge a little more on my new PC and get myself another SSD. I'm going to go with a Samsung EVO 850 500 gb. I already have a Evo 840 256 gb.

Here is my possibly stupid question. Is one or the other better for my windows install? Does it matter? The second drive will be used for storage and maybe scratch disks for video editing.

My primary use for the computer will be editing, and some gaming.

Thanks.

The 840 has the degrading issue. 850 will be better in both scenarios (OS/Data). 840 will be better as scratch as degredation occurs when files are not touched.

Intel XTU and I've given Aida64 a blast too.

I was getting crashes before I got to that voltage but might be able to take it down a little bit maybe.

I was more focused on getting my RAM to run at 3000mhz at that point though, I had to bump the DRAM voltage up a bit from 1.35v to 1.37v because with the standard xmp setting wouldn't post at 1.35v

For RAM, try VCCSA and VCCIO before resulting to increasing VDIMM or VCORE.
VCCSA and VCCIO start point would be 1.1-1.15v.

If temps are good I would get the rig prime95 stable. Just select blend as the torture test then click custom. Enter a good chunk of ram and change the minimum fft size to 128k.
 
I would go with something like this. New socket. Z170 motherboard that gives you the option to upgrade the CPU to a 6600k/6700k in the future. Can add another stick of ram to get 16gb if you want. Add an SSD later or now (I would suggest getting one now). Good power supply that will last. Get a RX480 or GTX 1060 for the video card.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($124.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($35.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($64.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $646.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-28 16:44 EDT-0400

This is super similar to my build, only differences are the CPU (I have a 6600k), RAM (same brand but 2x8GB), and HDD (I have an SSD). I just installed a GTX 1060 least night and everything runs great. Definitely get the SSD now, it is definitely worth it.
 

Reg

Banned
Posted this in the tech support thread, but didn't get a response.

I think my ssd is dying. It's a Crucial mx100 512GB drive. Here are the errors it's given me:

"cannot write cause of an I\O error"
"not accessible the semaphore timeout period is expired"

Trying to run the AS SSD benchmark, It stops at the read portion and spits out:
"system.IO.IOException"

Has anybody experienced similar ssd issues like there? Should I contact Crucial and get a replacement?
 

Josh5890

Member
How much longer will the founders edition 1070 be out in the wild? I'm trying to wait until these cards get closer to $400 but they still hover at $450+. I figure it won't happen until the founders are sold out.
 

xJavonta

Banned
So I got a 970

I suspect the rest of my PC is bottlenecking it though

My build:
Core i3 2100 @ stock
4 GB DDR3 1333
128GB SSD + 500 GB HDD
GTX 970

What is the cheapest thing I could do to make my PC faster? Would getting a secondhand i5 and 8 GB of RAM help me hold out on some AAA games at 1080p until I can afford to build a new PC at the end of the year?
 

pirata

Member
You need to be more specific:
What is installed on the SSD right now?
What is installed on the HDD right now?
What is your end goal?

On 256GB SSD: nothing. It's plugged in via sata and on a hard drive bay, but I haven't done anything with it. Period. I want to have my computer's operating system on it, like everyone else with an SSD (they were super expensive when I first built my PC). I haven't done anything with it, since all this Windows 10 stuff combined with not knowing how operating systems work installed on a different drive (still have no idea if my 2 TB of programs and data will become useless) and being really, really paranoid about fucking up my PC (it took me a month to just get Windows 7 working and not constantly corrupting itself with bad updates in 2011---ended up having to buy another copy of Windows). I was wanting to wait until my friend who has worked in tech support could help me, but he was condemned to engineering student hell last semester and is gone this summer, and I don't feel comfortable messing with this stuff on my own without guidance.

on HDD: Everything. 2TB drive, and it has only 350GB of space left. It has tons of video editing, audio editing, image editing, and other programs as well as tons of video, music, podcasts, and hundreds of Steam games. Needless to say, I don't want to lose this.

End Goal: Windows 10 on SSD, everything else on the HDD, still existent and functional.


EDIT: Do I need to upgrade my computer to Windows 10 first before I can put Windows 10 onto my my SSD? What are the dangers? I've tried to copy what I can onto a portable hard drive, but any mischief with my data or programs would still be terrible.
 
This is super similar to my build, only differences are the CPU (I have a 6600k), RAM (same brand but 2x8GB), and HDD (I have an SSD). I just installed a GTX 1060 least night and everything runs great. Definitely get the SSD now, it is definitely worth it.

Yea, he was responding to my build of this, I'm going to be using this for school and gaming. Is the GTX 1060 better than the RX480? Everywhere I checked they say they about neck to neck. And one last question: How well do you think this rig will run games like Sonic Generations, and Battlefield?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
So I got a 970

I suspect the rest of my PC is bottlenecking it though

My build:
Core i3 2100 @ stock
4 GB DDR3 1333
128GB SSD + 500 GB HDD
GTX 970

What is the cheapest thing I could do to make my PC faster? Would getting a secondhand i5 and 8 GB of RAM help me hold out on some AAA games at 1080p until I can afford to build a new PC at the end of the year?

What motherboard do you have? You may want to just wait and then upgrade your cpu/ram/mobo at the same time instead of investing money into a dead end now. However, if you wanted to get by as cheap as possible then upgrading to 8gb should be dirt cheap and then buying a 2nd hand 2500/2500k would give you a decent machine for now.
 

xJavonta

Banned
What motherboard do you have? You may want to just wait and then upgrade your cpu/ram/mobo at the same time instead of investing money into a dead end now. However, if you wanted to get by as cheap as possible then upgrading to 8gb should be dirt cheap and then buying a 2nd hand 2500/2500k would give you a decent machine for now.

Some budget MSI motherboard. MSI H61M-E33(B3)

I have pretty much no money to spend on a new rig right now, but can spare like $100 max to tide me over until the end of the year for this PC.
 

OneUh8

Member
Yea, he was responding to my build of this, I'm going to be using this for school and gaming. Is the GTX 1060 better than the RX480? Everywhere I checked they say they about neck to neck. And one last question: How well do you think this rig will run games like Sonic Generations, and Battlefield?

With either card you will be able to max both games out and play at 60+ fps at 1080p. I just did a quick check the benches for the GTX 1060 has it running BF4 maxed at 1080p averaging between 90 to 100 fps. You will have no issues :) .
 
Man this sucks.

My brand new computer is barely picking up a wifi signal that my laptop and phone are having no problem detecting.

My laptop is connecting at 23 mbs that my computer is connecting at 1 mbs from.

Same distance from router. Under 60 feet away.
 
So I just disabled my inboard wifi card and am using a usb adapter.

The connection is fine.

So either my inboard adapter is a piece of shit, or something else is at play
 

Vuze

Member
How much longer will the founders edition 1070 be out in the wild? I'm trying to wait until these cards get closer to $400 but they still hover at $450+. I figure it won't happen until the founders are sold out.
Nvidia will produce and ship FEs through the whole life cycle of 1070 and 1080. I think only the 1060 got a limited run.
Actually that was one of their (BS) reasons to push the price: high enough not to compete with the partner cards (you already know what happened) and make enough profit from selling the cards to keep making them until EOL of the 10x0 series.
 
Yea, he was responding to my build of this, I'm going to be using this for school and gaming. Is the GTX 1060 better than the RX480? Everywhere I checked they say they about neck to neck. And one last question: How well do you think this rig will run games like Sonic Generations, and Battlefield?

Right now, it seems the 1060 and 480 are pretty close. 1060 does better with DX11 and current games, 480 has a slight lead on DX12 and Vulkan. The 480 might be better long term, since AMD driver support is really good, and 8GB of VRAM might be needed in the future. The 1060 uses less power and still delivers really good performance. You can't go wrong with either, but I'd go for the 480 if I had to choose. I went with the 1060 because I got tired of waiting for the Sapphire Nitro RX 480 to be available. I might upgrade to AMD's Vega cards in a few years, but I'm not in a hurry. This is my first gaming PC, and I have a ton of games from Steam sales waiting for me. The 1060 will be fine for me in this regard.

As for running something like Battlefield One, it should probably be fine on high settings. I'm still new to PC gaming and performance levels, so I'm not really sure.

The RX 480 review thread has someone asking a lot of important questions, and a few posters are answering: http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1240468&page=57
 
For RAM, try VCCSA and VCCIO before resulting to increasing VDIMM or VCORE.
VCCSA and VCCIO start point would be 1.1-1.15v.

If temps are good I would get the rig prime95 stable. Just select blend as the torture test then click custom. Enter a good chunk of ram and change the minimum fft size to 128k.

Will have a look at my settings later, after work, can't remember what they are set to at the moment.
 
Has anyone had any problems with mircostutter on a GTX 980? My girlfriend's PC seems to be a bit messed up. It takes roughly around one second for the computer to completely skip a frame, it even happens on the desktop. I'm not sure what to do, I've tried using DDU and changing multiple settings in the Nvidia Control Panel... If anyone knows what I can do to fix this, please let me know.
 
What do you guys think about the position of my cooler? It's in exhaust configuration.

4g3P8axl.jpg
 

Jezbollah

Member
What do you guys think about the position of my cooler? It's in exhaust configuration.

4g3P8axl.jpg

It's certainly an interesting location :)

I would consider putting it on the rear 120mm mounting and then loading up the front with some airflow fans - I think you'll end up getting better airflow to your graphics card that way.
 
Congrats on that case.

Why didn't you put the cooler as the rear exhaust?


Won't the two intakes go directly for the top exhaust, instead of the rear exhaust?

It's certainly an interesting location :)

I would consider putting it on the rear 120mm mounting and then loading up the front with some airflow fans - I think you'll end up getting better airflow to your graphics card that way.

Thanks guys have changed it back as a rear exhaust.
 
can't decide on the IPS or TN version of this monitor Acer Predator XB270HU

is IPS really worth it over a good TN for gaming? the difference i'm looking at is up to £100.

I'm looking for a 1440p 120hz+ monitor with gsync
 

OneUh8

Member
Yea, he was responding to my build of this, I'm going to be using this for school and gaming. Is the GTX 1060 better than the RX480? Everywhere I checked they say they about neck to neck. And one last question: How well do you think this rig will run games like Sonic Generations, and Battlefield?

This just got uploaded today. So it's some recent benchmarks between the two.

https://youtu.be/ECTGKqWpszk
 
So Nvidia and AMD finally did it and removed analog video support. No one makes a separate adapter fast enough to even do 80hz at 2048x1280.
Nothing but sorry ass 60hz and 1080please.

So now I have two choices.

1. Return or sell my 1070 and get a 980ti.
2. Spend a grand on a display.
 

Vipu

Banned
can't decide on the IPS or TN version of this monitor Acer Predator XB270HU

is IPS really worth it over a good TN for gaming? the difference i'm looking at is up to £100.

I'm looking for a 1440p 120hz+ monitor with gsync

I would say its bigger difference than gsync.
 

Vipu

Banned
So Nvidia and AMD finally did it and removed analog video support. No one makes a separate adapter fast enough to even do 80hz at 2048x1280.
Nothing but sorry ass 60hz and 1080please.

So now I have two choices.

1. Return or sell my 1070 and get a 980ti.
2. Spend a grand on a display.

Keep 1070 and get good screen.
 
What does this have to do with "targeting" those settings though? The dev doesn't have to "target" 4k/60fps. They simply have to make sure their game can support those settings. The hardware then supports that ability. Same with 120fps. I'd venture to guess nearly no game has ever targeted 120fps as the optimal refresh rate, but that doesn't mean devs shouldn't be willing to support it. There are plenty of people who probably weren't thrilled to buy HDTVs, but we shouldn't let that stand in the way of better experiences. 4k60fps doesn't sounds like an outlandish request for gaming, especially when you consider screen technology is only going to continue to get better.

They DO support 4K60fps! The 1080 is more than powerful enough to reach 4K@60fps in every game available today, save perhaps Quantum Break. What the 1080 does not support is 4K@60fps AT THE ABSOLUTE HIGHEST SETTINGS.

That's what I mean by "target". The absolute highest settings should target lower resolutions, and people who want higher resolutions should turn the settings down.
 
can't decide on the IPS or TN version of this monitor Acer Predator XB270HU

is IPS really worth it over a good TN for gaming? the difference i'm looking at is up to £100.

I'm looking for a 1440p 120hz+ monitor with gsync

IPS has excellent viewing angles and much better colors. To me TN with a low ms seems to be for competitive twitch fps gamers who play with very high framerates and need that micro second reaction time. For non competitive gamers, I don't think its an issue at all, though they like to brand TN monitors as "gaming monitors". But their picture quality is so much worse.
 

jonno394

Member
Installed my Cooler Master 212x and Gigabyte 1060 Gaming Edition. Jesus, the way you install the 212x is a nightmare, made a right pigs ear out of it and had to re-apply thermal paste twice, just couldnt get the screws sitting right :/
 

Vipu

Banned
IPS has excellent viewing angles and much better colors. To me TN with a low ms seems to be for competitive twitch fps gamers who play with very high framerates and need that micro second reaction time. For non competitive gamers, I don't think its an issue at all, though they like to brand TN monitors as "gaming monitors". But their picture quality is so much worse.

Many new IPS screens have ALMOST same ms than TN have so thats no excuse anymore.
 
Keep 1070 and get good screen.

But the particular CRT I have looks better than anything on the market, and is far more versatile. It would take a very very expensive OLED to match or exceed it.

I guess I could use it in my dev studio room and then get a 27" IPS, even though I'd prefer OLED. Or I could pack it up and sell it to a museum when I'm 80.

Thinking about the Dell UltraSharp U2715H which comes factory calibrated. It's a decent price with low enough lag, although not as low as a CRT.
 

nightmare-slain

Gold Member
Installed my Cooler Master 212x and Gigabyte 1060 Gaming Edition. Jesus, the way you install the 212x is a nightmare, made a right pigs ear out of it and had to re-apply thermal paste twice, just couldnt get the screws sitting right :/

i have that cooler too and hated installing it. it kept sliding because of the paste when i was trying to get the screws in. the whole time i was worried i was going to damage my motherboard. it seems to be doing it's job so must have done it right. i dread having to take it off again if i need to change paste or replace cpu but that shouldn't be for a long time yet.
 
Picked up the Dell U2515H for under $350 from Dell. That's including tax and next day shipping which was free. It's the same price at b&h.

I picked it for a variety of reasons.
1. Great Price.
2. Larger than 24 inches.
3. Calibrated at Dell.
4. Tighter PPI than the 27 inch.
5. Less color uniformity issues than the 27.
6. 2560x1440 (almost as high as the fw900)


And although this is a gaming/dev pc and I'll game on this monitor, my 34" crt will also be connected via HDMI. I prefer gaming on it unless I need to read fine text or require a lot of screen real estate.
 

pablito

Member
Alright if you guys don't mind again, I'm close to pulling the trigger on this.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BL2TCy

Things that aren't listed are things I have already. And I'm getting an SLI version of that card. With all the HDDs, SSDs, SLI and everything else, the power came out to 517 watts. I chose a 650 watt PSU just in case I needed some wiggle room. Does overclocking need more wattage? I have no idea. I don't mind going lower if that's too much.

I was debating the i5 6600k against the i7 6700k. I read some stuff about how by the time we need the benefits i7 has over i5, I'd have to upgrade even if I got the i7 in the beginning. So I went with the i5.

Anything else? Mobo is good? Case doesn't suck? lol.
 

OneUh8

Member
Alright if you guys don't mind again, I'm close to pulling the trigger on this.

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/BL2TCy

Things that aren't listed are things I have already. And I'm getting an SLI version of that card. With all the HDDs, SSDs, SLI and everything else, the power came out to 517 watts. I chose a 650 watt PSU just in case I needed some wiggle room. Does overclocking need more wattage? I have no idea. I don't mind going lower if that's too much.

I was debating the i5 6600k against the i7 6700k. I read some stuff about how by the time we need the benefits i7 has over i5, I'd have to upgrade even if I got the i7 in the beginning. So I went with the i5.

Anything else? Mobo is good? Case doesn't suck? lol.

What do you mean by SLI version? You mean you plan to run SLI? I would probably save your money and just get one card. What resolution you play at? Ditch that cooler. It's a waste of money. Get an air cooler for the same or less that will run cooler and quieter, or go for a better AIO. I would personally get the G2 or P2 EVGA pus's, but that will work fine. The case is personal preference, so if you like it then fine, just make sure it has what you need or want.
 

pablito

Member
What do you mean by SLI version? You mean you plan to run SLI? I would probably save your money and just get one card. What resolution you play at? Ditch that cooler. It's a waste of money. Get an air cooler for the same or less that will run cooler and quieter, or go for a better AIO. I would personally get the G2 or P2 EVGA pus's, but that will work fine. The case is personal preference, so if you like it then fine, just make sure it has what you need or want.

What I mean by SLI version is...you can't SLI with just any card/mobo right? Need specific ones for it. I won't be getting two cards at once. The other later down the line when it's cheaper.

I could go with a Cooler Master Hyper EVO for the cooler?
 

moerser

Member
im about to order the following parts and would like to hear your opinions.

asus maximus viii hero
i7 6700k
kingston hyper x savage 2x8gb ddr4 3000mhz
zotac gtx 1080 amp! edition
be quiet silent base 800
corsair h100i v2
be quiet powerzone 1000w
wd blue 2tb
kingston ssd 240gb (the new uv400)
asus vg248qe

i know that the 1000w are probably overkill, but i got it dirt cheap.

EDIT: forgot to ask. would it make sense to put in another 2x8gb ram kit? especially for gaming. i dont know if its better to just go with 16gb at 3000mhz or 32gb at 2666mhz (and i think higher latency?)
 

JohnnyFootball

GerAlt-Right. Ciriously.
I understand that Kaby Lake will launch before too much longer?

Should I get a Z170 or just wait a little bit for Kaby Lake to launch?

I can't even find much intel (pun intended) on how Kaby Lake will be different than Z170.

I plan to build my system using the Corsair Bulldog and hook it up to my TV.
 
I understand that Kaby Lake will launch before too much longer?

Should I get a Z170 or just wait a little bit for Kaby Lake to launch?

I can't even find much intel (pun intended) on how Kaby Lake will be different than Z170.

I plan to build my system using the Corsair Bulldog and hook it up to my TV.

Yeah not much info on Kaby Lake still but Skylake and the i5 6600k / i7 6700k are more than fast enough to run pretty much anything for the foreseeable future and Kaby Lake will probably only offer a small step in performance, so you won't be missing out if you went Skylake.

Guess it all depends on if you are ready to get building right now or if you can wait.
 

OneUh8

Member
What I mean by SLI version is...you can't SLI with just any card/mobo right? Need specific ones for it. I won't be getting two cards at once. The other later down the line when it's cheaper.

I could go with a Cooler Master Hyper EVO for the cooler?

Ahh gotcha. All 1070's can SLI. I think you will realize going with 1 card is the better route. If you really need the extra power, wait for the 1080ti and at that time sell the 1070.

You can go with the CM EVO. Or check out some others like this for example in that same price range.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/93Crxr/cryorig-cpu-cooler-h7

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wjmLrH/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhu12s

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FcfmP6/noctua-cpu-cooler-nhu9s

Any of the Noctua coolers are good. If you want an AIO, I would at least get a H80i V2 or H100i V2.
 

OneUh8

Member
im about to order the following parts and would like to hear your opinions.

asus maximus viii hero
i7 6700k
kingston hyper x savage 2x8gb ddr4 3000mhz
zotac gtx 1080 amp! edition
be quiet silent base 800
corsair h100i v2
be quiet powerzone 1000w
wd blue 2tb
kingston ssd 240gb (the new uv400)
asus vg248qe

i know that the 1000w are probably overkill, but i got it dirt cheap.

Lol yeah super overkill. Looks good though.
 
im about to order the following parts and would like to hear your opinions.

asus maximus viii hero
i7 6700k
kingston hyper x savage 2x8gb ddr4 3000mhz
zotac gtx 1080 amp! edition
be quiet silent base 800
corsair h100i v2
be quiet powerzone 1000w
wd blue 2tb
kingston ssd 240gb (the new uv400)
asus vg248qe

i know that the 1000w are probably overkill, but i got it dirt cheap.

Should make a great gaming PC.

1000w might be overkill but who cares, at least its future proof, if you ever go sli or something. I'm still rocking my Enermax 85+ 1050w psu from around 6 years ago.
 
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