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[Raw64life]

Been mulling over my new build for over a year but kept falling into the "wait for _______ to come out to future proof my build as much as possible" routine that never ends. With 1070 prices stabilizing I figure now is as good a time as any. Any problems with this?

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($236.98 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170-D3HP ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($83.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive ($116.94 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.89 @ OutletPC)

Total: $1266.53

My budget for my last build was $1,200 so this seems to be mostly in line with that. I noticed a lot of people in this thread don't have optical drives in their build, which made me realize that I can't even remember the last time I used my optical drive and shouldn't bother. My only question is what's the best way to get W10 on your PC sans optical disk?

Also, I kinda want to pull the trigger today but with Black Friday around the corner I guess I should wait until then?

 

[enewtabie]

Been mulling over my new build for over a year but kept falling into the "wait for _______ to come out to future proof my build as much as possible" routine that never ends. With 1070 prices stabilizing I figure now is as good a time as any. Any problems with this?

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($236.98 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170-D3HP ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($113.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($83.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive ($116.94 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.89 @ OutletPC)

Total: $1266.53

My budget for my last build was $1,200 so this seems to be mostly in line with that. I noticed a lot of people in this thread don't have optical drives in their build, which made me realize that I can't even remember the last time I used my optical drive and shouldn't bother. My only question is what's the best way to get W10 on your PC sans optical disk?

Also, I kinda want to pull the trigger today but with Black Friday around the corner I guess I should wait until then?

Win 10 on usb. Create your loader and download or you can buy it like that. Its easy.

 

[vector824]

Been mulling over my new build for over a year but kept falling into the "wait for _______ to come out to future proof my build as much as possible" routine that never ends. With 1070 prices stabilizing I figure now is as good a time as any. Any problems with this?

...

Also, I kinda want to pull the trigger today but with Black Friday around the corner I guess I should wait until then?

If you're ready now pull the trigger soon. Black Friday might be a good option to wait for.

Build looks good, you could swap the cooler for a be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ NCIX US) because some people say it's better for the money. I have the Cooler Master and it's fine. What do you need a 4tb drive for?

 

[kuYuri]

My final list for the budget build I will be making soon. The only real change since last time is downgrading to 8GB of RAM. Not bad for just over $500!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.20)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($30.33)
Memory: Avexir Core Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Purchased For $36.99)
Storage: A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $53.99)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.59)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card (Purchased For $134.99)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $34.99)
Other: Seasonic M12II Bronze 620W (Purchased For $49.99)
Total: $507.07
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-04 15:27 EDT-0400

 

[Hands of Stone]

Any recommendations for printers?

 

[vector824]

Any recommendations for printers?

Hands down best printer ever. I love mine.

Brother HL-L2300D Monochrome Laser Printer with Duplex Printing

My final list for the budget build I will be making soon. The only real change since last time is downgrading to 8GB of RAM. Not bad for just over $500!

Not bad at all.

 

[professor_t]

I know this thread is largely about building your own rig, and the support everyone gives to that end is amazing, but doesn't this seem like a pretty damn good deal for a pre-built machine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G26TS6M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2EEQJB1CD6OSF&coliid=I1GE64MRYW9UZ3&psc=1

For someone who is clueless and doesn't have a lot of free time, it doesn't seem like you're paying a huge premium here.

 

[ColdDeckEd]

I honestly don't remember..I only used it for about a day before deciding it wasn't for me, and I only did League of Legends lol. I do imagine you have black bars though. It's like playing an old 4x3 game on a 16x9 monitor. I couldn't give up the convenience of gaming and watching and watching a show at the same time in full screen, even if Ultrawide looks amazing on it's own. If you have space for Ultrawide AND a 16x9 maybe that would be ok

Crossposting my reddit post for maximum help:

Troubleshooting Help:
*What is your parts list? *
i5 4670k
16gb RAM
4gb Sapphire R9 Fury
256gb Samsung 850 EVO
Corsair RM650

Describe your problem. List any error messages and symptoms. Be descriptive.

Hi everyone,
I installed a R9 Fury last night to replace my MSI R9 270, and discovered noise issues coming from somewhere within my tower. It increases and decreases with the core clock speed so I believe it is coil whine. Around 850-900mhz it goes away.

So my question is this: I used to game on a R9 270 and noticed no coil whine. Now the 270 uses much less power than the Fury, is this the main factor? I was also considering the MSI 8gb RX480 which uses less power as well. Is this likely to produce less, maybe even no, coil whine? The below reviews show that the 480 uses about 100w less when gaming

http://www.eteknix.com/msi-gtx-1060-gaming-x-graphics-card-review/11/

http://www.eteknix.com/sapphire-nitro-oc-r9-fury-graphics-card-review/10/

Also, on my power supply I used the cable that has 2 8pin connectors on it to power the connectors on my GPU. Would it possibly help to use 2 cables, 1 8pin connector each? I am also aware that apparently the Corsair RM series is not the best. I would really like to avoid getting a new PSU at this point.

Thank you for any help! Super frustrating to hear this noise after finally deciding on this GPU after days of agonizing contemplation.

Honestly coil whine is a card to card thing. If it is really bad you may be able to get a replacement from where you bought it, but there's no guarantee that your new one won't have it. You might want to try running it off of the two cables pretty sure that's what manufacturers recommend especially if it's a modular unit. You can also try downvolting it, it works well with fury/x/nano cards see if that helps.

 

[Ashhong]

Honestly coil whine is a card to card thing. If it is really bad you may be able to get a replacement from where you bought it, but there's no guarantee that your new one won't have it. You might want to try running it off of the two cables pretty sure that's what manufacturers recommend especially if it's a modular unit. You can also try downvolting it, it works well with fury/x/nano cards see if that helps.

Is downvolting the same as underclocking?

 

[vector824]

I know this thread is largely about building your own rig, and the support everyone gives to that end is amazing, but doesn't this seem like a pretty damn good deal for a pre-built machine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G26TS6M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2EEQJB1CD6OSF&coliid=I1GE64MRYW9UZ3&psc=1

For someone who is clueless and doesn't have a lot of free time, it doesn't seem like you're paying a huge premium here.

There's a myriad of reasons I wouldnt buy a pre-built system like that. One of them being subpar components, i.e. that really sucky CPU cooler, Founder's Edition GPU, (probably) crappy PSU, HDD instead of a SSD, etc. I threw this together for less than $100 more: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/dn6vZ8 with these being excellent components. You could even go cheaper if you tried really hard.

I see your point of not having to put it together yourself. It's not nearly as hard as you might think though.

 

[Bloodember]

There's a myriad of reasons I wouldnt buy a pre-built system like that. One of them being subpar components, i.e. that really sucky CPU cooler, Founder's Edition GPU, (probably) crappy PSU, HDD instead of a SSD, etc. I threw this together for the same price: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/8DpZ2R

You still need to add a keyboard, mouse and copy of Windows. But like you I will never buy a rebuilt for the same reasons, don't know what the parts are.

 

[vector824]

You still need to add a keyboard, mouse and copy of Windows. But like you I will never buy a rebuilt for the same reasons, don't know what the parts are.

Fixed! Just to prove my point. haha! http://pcpartpicker.com/list/dn6vZ8

 

[AngmarsKing701]

I know this thread is largely about building your own rig, and the support everyone gives to that end is amazing, but doesn't this seem like a pretty damn good deal for a pre-built machine:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G26TS6M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2EEQJB1CD6OSF&coliid=I1GE64MRYW9UZ3&psc=1

For someone who is clueless and doesn't have a lot of free time, it doesn't seem like you're paying a huge premium here.

I'm not interested in building either. I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKLKCNI/?tag=neogaf0e-20) on my wish list at the moment.

Same price.

Looks like mine has the 1070 vs the 1080 in yours, but mine has a 256 SSD and 2 TB HDD vs. the 1 TB HDD in yours.

 

[professor_t]

There's a myriad of reasons I wouldnt buy a pre-built system like that. One of them being subpar components, i.e. that really sucky CPU cooler, Founder's Edition GPU, (probably) crappy PSU, HDD instead of a SSD, etc. I threw this together for less than $100 more: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/dn6vZ8 with these being excellent components. You could even go cheaper if you tried really hard.

I see your point of not having to put it together yourself. It's not nearly as hard as you might think though.

Thanks for the feedback. I know the drawbacks of not having an SSD, but are the other concerns (e.g., a sucky CPU cooler) less of a concern if you're not planning to overclock and will just use the system as-is?

Bear with me that some of this is heresy to advanced PC gamers. I am a simple man with simple needs (and very little free time).

 

[lostsupper]

Thanks for the feedback. I know the drawbacks of not having an SSD, but are the other concerns (e.g., a sucky CPU cooler) less of a concern if you're not planning to overclock and will just use the system as-is?

Bear with me that some of this is heresy to advanced PC gamers. I am a simple man with simple needs (and very little free time).

That cooler will be very loud under load. The power supply is much more likely to fail (and potentially take the more expensive components with it) than one suggested by the poster above.

If you have time to post here and you can put together Legos, you can build a pc.

 

[vector824]

That cooler will be very loud under load. The power supply is much more likely to fail (and potentially take the more expensive components with it) than one suggested by the poster above.

If you have time to post here and you can put together Legos, you can build a pc.

ALL of this. It's seriously two hours on a weekend and you'll have the best you can get on the market.

 

[Wulfric]

Hey PC Gaf, I want to add a second monitor to my current build, which I built in 2014.

I have this MSI R9 280 with one HDMI port, 1 DVI, and 2 mini displayport. My current monitor is this 23" Asus.

I am completely satisfied with my current monitor and graphics card, just want to buy another monitor of the same model (unless there is something better for the price). How would I go about connecting the second monitor?

 

[Ghost Dad the Whip]

Not sure what I need to upgrade but my PC has had odd behavior recently that I assume is due to parts failing. (mobo? g.card? win10? Virus??)

Behavior: All or most of my desktop icons, ones on the desktop and ones on the taskbar (sometimes both) will turn into blank icons (white rectangles).

I can still click on them and after 2mins max they pop back into their correct icon type.

This happens a couple times a night. It's almost like it needs to 'refresh' them. Can happen anytime, right after booting up, hours into the PC idling and I wake it up, in the middle of playing a game, while watching video etc...

I got my setup in 2013 and it serves me fine otherwise, I have a new vid card coming anyway (1060), but I wonder if that was the problem or what it could be?

Setup: 8gig ram, i5, nVidia 960ti, Windows10 fully updated, 2x1080p monitors. Windows and key programs on a 150gig flash drive, everything else on a 1TB classic.

Any ideas what it might be or what I could do to figure it out?

Help!
Thanks <3

 

[ColdDeckEd]

Is downvolting the same as underclocking?

Nope, you can downvolt without touching the clock speed. Fury's can usually run with alot less voltage, give it a try just take 10mv steps and see how far it goes.

 

[AlexFlame116]

Hey! I'm new here but I have a couple of questions. I want to buy a good PC that's under 1800 dollars that can play games at the best level possible or at least close to it. Basically Skyrim Special Edition with high quality mods. I also want the PC to be able to perform other tasks efficiently. What would be the best option right now?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Hazaro]

The $15 Deepcools from china seem decent: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CPU-fan-Qui...GA1150-LGA1151-LGA1155-1156-AMD-/321876206995
EVO is still strong in best value town, but for a tiny bit more and no RAM issues I'm getting a ($35) CRYORIG H7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7YA5FQ/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Gonna see how it is. And OP updates probably when Z270/7700K hit along with the 960 EVO. M.2 speeds are too fast to ignore anymore at the same price.

Hey! I'm new here but I have a couple of questions. I want to buy a good PC that's under 1800 dollars that can play games at the best level possible or at least close to it. Basically Skyrim Special Edition with high quality mods. I also want the PC to be able to perform other tasks efficiently. What would be the best option right now?

Thanks in advance!

Probably filling out the OP

 

[AlexFlame116]

Probably filling out the OP

Did you mean reading? Yeah I tried that but I got kind of confused haha. I meant it in more of a already built model.

 

[Raw64life]

Win 10 on usb. Create your loader and download or you can buy it like that. Its easy.

So I can just take a USB stick that I have, download Win 10 onto it, then plug it into my new PC and when I turn it on it'll install?

If you're ready now pull the trigger soon. Black Friday might be a good option to wait for.

Build looks good, you could swap the cooler for a be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ NCIX US) because some people say it's better for the money. I have the Cooler Master and it's fine. What do you need a 4tb drive for?

Thanks I'll look into it.

I have a 2TB in my current PC and it's almost full. I haven't bought any PC games in a couple years since my 2011 PC has seen better days, but just looking at some AAA PC games it seems the going rate is about 50GB per game. Seems like that could add up quick. I was actually looking at 5TB drives before I settled on 4TB, but if I see a good 5TB on sale during Black Friday I'll pick it up.

 

[RedSwirl]

System won't power on.


All I did was install a new wireless card. It's an intel AC 7260 and I installed it on an ASUS Z87-Plus board. I also plugged in the bluetooth card through one of the USB header sockets.

I didn't touch any of the other components which have been in place for months. It's powered on just fine till now. While installing the card I did notice one cord not connected to the PSU which I'm sure was for the GPU. I plugged it back in, but I don't remember when that came unplugged.

The red power light in the motherboard is on. I can even tell my external HDD is getting power when plugged in.

Only other thing I can tell you is I did the installation on a hardwood floor and kept cables and everything at a safe distance.

Edit: Pressing the power switch on the mobo does nothing, even though the switch is lit up.

 

[Hazaro]

Did you mean reading? Yeah I tried that but I got kind of confused haha. I meant it in more of a already built model.

Did you want a prebuilt?
You'll be looking for something with an i7 and a GTX 1080 in that price range, or a better rounded system with a GTX 1070. I can't speak to which would really be a good deal right now.

So I can just take a USB stick that I have, download Win 10 onto it, then plug it into my new PC and when I turn it on it'll install?

Thanks I'll look into it.

Yes, but copy your data off it first. There's information in the second post about it.
Also see above for the heatsink stuff.

System won't power on.

All I did was install a new wireless card. It's an intel AC 7260 and I installed it on an ASUS Z87-Plus board. I also plugged in the bluetooth card through one of the USB header sockets.

I didn't touch any of the other components which have been in place for months. It's powered on just fine till now. While installing the card I did notice one cord not connected to the PSU which I'm sure was for the GPU. I plugged it back in, but I don't remember when that came unplugged.

The red power light in the motherboard is on. I can even tell my external HDD is getting power when plugged in.

Only other thing I can tell you is I did the installation on a hardwood floor and kept cables and everything at a safe distance.

Edit: Pressing the power switch on the mobo does nothing, even though the switch is lit up.

Power off completely, unplug power, wait 2 minutes.
Hold power button to drain power in system
Remove the card you put in, reattach power, wait 2 minutes, turn system on.

Work from there!

 

[Xux]

Yeah! Built my first PC and everything works! Pretty neat so far.

 

[kuYuri]

Yeah! Built my first PC and everything works! Pretty neat so far.

Nice build! You really went in on it.

 

[RedSwirl]

Power off completely, unplug power, wait 2 minutes.
Hold power button to drain power in system
Remove the card you put in, reattach power, wait 2 minutes, turn system on.

Work from there!

Still nothing.

Edit: The power light on the mobo is still on. The external HDD still gets power when plugged in. Another light on the back is still on like normal. Could be nothing, but the lights in the room still flicker for a split second when I hit the power button. Just... nothing happens in the computer when I hit the power button. No blue light, no fans, nothing.

Edit: Which power button did you mean to hold down? The case power button or the mobo power button?

 

[Mozendo]

EVO is still strong in best value town

Raijintek Aidos, Cryorih M9i, and Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 are CPU cooler I would recommend than the hyper 212 Evo, not to mention the fan is garbage so you'll probably be replacing that sometime within a year.

 

[Popstar]

Hey PC Gaf, I want to add a second monitor to my current build, which I built in 2014.

I have this MSI R9 280 with one HDMI port, 1 DVI, and 2 mini displayport. My current monitor is this 23" Asus.

I am completely satisfied with my current monitor and graphics card, just want to buy another monitor of the same model (unless there is something better for the price). How would I go about connecting the second monitor?

DVI->HDMI cable.

EDIT: something like this

 

[AlexFlame116]

Did you want a prebuilt?
You'll be looking for something with an i7 and a GTX 1080 in that price range, or a better rounded system with a GTX 1070. I can't speak to which would really be a good deal right now.

Yeah I was looking at the 1080 with the i7. I think it was the Alienware Aurora R5. 16 gb of ram.

 

[RedSwirl]

Okay, got power, got Windows logon screen... I just had to unplug that yellow cable from the PSU.

Come to think of it, it's the kind of plug that couldn't have come off accidentally. I must have deliberately left it unplugged when I installed my current GPU a few months ago or when I first built the computer. I've completely forgotten what it's for.

Actually, while typing this I might have remembered: My last GPU -- a GTX 760, took up two plugs in my PSU, while my current one, a 1070, only uses up one, leaving the extra one.

 

[Wulfric]

DVI->HDMI cable.

EDIT: something like this

Thanks, so the HDMI part goes into the monitor, and the DVI part goes into the graphic card, I'm guessing?

 

[Bloodember]

Hey PC Gaf, I want to add a second monitor to my current build, which I built in 2014.

I have this MSI R9 280 with one HDMI port, 1 DVI, and 2 mini displayport. My current monitor is this 23" Asus.

I am completely satisfied with my current monitor and graphics card, just want to buy another monitor of the same model (unless there is something better for the price). How would I go about connecting the second monitor?

Just connect the second monitor too the graphics card using another port on the card. Windows will automatically know and start using it. You'll just have to adjust what side you want it on from the display settings.

 

[Mik2121]

Need some guidance guys. My current PC is this:

BIOS: BIOS Date: 12/04/12 09:03:38 Ver: 04.06.05
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3820 CPU @ 3.60GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.6GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM

Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680
Display Memory: 10167 MB
Dedicated Memory: 2017 MB
Shared Memory: 8149 MB

(Copy/pasted chunks of my DxDiag results)

Now, I want to upgrade my PC but I'm not very well-versed on the technical aspects of PC building/updating. Ideally, I would like to make the jump to VR (currently have an Oculus Rift DK2) and was eyeing a GT1070 since my budget is not that large. Would it be stupid (or even straight-up not work) to update my GPU with my current CPU and Memory (16GB)? I could probably go and update my Memory to about 32Gb at the same time, but updating my motherboard and CPU would push the budget up a lot and I would have to wait more to update everything at the same time.

Suggestions?

 

[Hazaro]

Still nothing.

Edit: The power light on the mobo is still on. The external HDD still gets power when plugged in. Another light on the back is still on like normal. Could be nothing, but the lights in the room still flicker for a split second when I hit the power button. Just... nothing happens in the computer when I hit the power button. No blue light, no fans, nothing.

Edit: Which power button did you mean to hold down? The case power button or the mobo power button?

Both would be the same.
Is it possible you didn't fully turn off the system before you changed parts?
Sounds like a short or static damage. A picture of the cabling would be good. You can remove your GPU as well as the cable you thought was unplugged and see if that helps.
Basically resetting your computer to a few parts needed to boot as possible to troubleshoot.

Raijintek Aidos, Cryorih M9i, and Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 are CPU cooler I would recommend than the hyper 212 Evo, not to mention the fan is garbage so you'll probably be replacing that sometime within a year.

Nice suggestions, I saw the M7 vs M9i comparisons and a lot of it is simply availability and ease of purchase. The gains we are looking at are pretty minimal overall. I'll be evaluating the M7 next week on my system upgrade.

Yeah I was looking at the 1080 with the i7. I think it was the Alienware Aurora R5. 16 gb of ram.

Should be fine then.

Need some guidance guys. My current PC is this:

BIOS: BIOS Date: 12/04/12 09:03:38 Ver: 04.06.05
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3820 CPU @ 3.60GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.6GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM

Card name: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 680
Display Memory: 10167 MB
Dedicated Memory: 2017 MB
Shared Memory: 8149 MB

(Copy/pasted chunks of my DxDiag results)

Now, I want to upgrade my PC but I'm not very well-versed on the technical aspects of PC building/updating. Ideally, I would like to make the jump to VR (currently have an Oculus Rift DK2) and was eyeing a GT1070 since my budget is not that large. Would it be stupid (or even straight-up not work) to update my GPU with my current CPU and Memory (16GB)? I could probably go and update my Memory to about 32Gb at the same time, but updating my motherboard and CPU would push the budget up a lot and I would have to wait more to update everything at the same time.

Suggestions?

Overclock CPU and chuck in a 1070 is fine.

 

[kakashi08]

How do i learn quick, Overclocking Core i7-3770K.
Any app i can download that does it itself. Never overclocked cpu, let alone anything else.
Gpu-gtx780

Are the steps in this website good for first timers?
http://www.techradar.com/how-to/computing/how-to-overclock-your-cpu-1306573

 

[flipswitch]

At what percentage does gpu fan noise get loud enough to be a problem?

 

[Dio]

At what percentage does gpu fan noise get loud enough to be a problem?

What GPU do you have? My 1060 gets pretty loud when I play intensive Overwatch because I set Afterburner with a curve to go into overdrive if it ever gets above 70C.

 

[flipswitch]

What GPU do you have? My 1060 gets pretty loud when I play intensive Overwatch because I set Afterburner with a curve to go into overdrive if it ever gets above 70C.

EVGA 980Ti SC. I posted this earlier, temps get up to 75c, fan speed at 45% while playing a certain game.
But I guess the noise varies from gpu manufacturer to another. The fans are set on auto.

 

[Dio]

EVGA 980Ti SC. I posted this earlier, temps get up to 75c, fan speed at 45% while playing a certain game.
But I guess the noise varies from gpu manufacturer to another. The fans are set on auto.

Maybe you should check out using MSI Afterburner like I do. You can actually create your own custom 'fan speed curve' so that the card fans go at a certain percentage speed at certain temps very easily.

Random example from google but you can just click on the curve and drag the points around.

As for 'being a problem,' GPU fans are pretty commonly loud as fuck when you put them at high speeds. My 8800GT was like a high pitched jet engine at 100% and it lasted me for many years before I decided to replace it (and it was still working.)

 

[Popstar]

Thanks, so the HDMI part goes into the monitor, and the DVI part goes into the graphic card, I'm guessing?

The monitor you linked only has an HDMI input so yes.

 

[Tanston]

Ordered all my parts. And have two quick cooling questions. The case I bought came with two fans. One in the front to suck and one in the back to blow. With the build below and hopefully an overclock to between 4.0ghz and 4.5ghz (depending on how things go) should I be adding more case fans?

Also my case has a vent underneath the power supply so I could either install the power supply intake fan down and pull cool air from below the case or I could install it fan up and pull hot air from the case and push it out through the power supply. I have no idea what the best option is here and my research leads me to believe this is up for some debate. Any opinions?

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/979M3F


Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor

CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler

MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory

Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

MSI GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card

Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2, 80+ GOLD 650W, Fully Modular,

Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit

 

[Stubo]

Personally I'd pick up a 2nd case fan to intake at the front of the case and mount the power supply fan down.

If you're putting the case on the floor and it's on carpet, either put something solid underneath to allow the fan some breathing room or mount the power supply fan up.

Hope this helps!

 

[rac]

Let me know if the PSU works for you. I'm in the same boat and don't want to replace my GPU.

So played a little more of Gwent with chrome running in the background and about an hour of the Witcher 3. The new psu seems to have stopped the crashing for now.

Here's a picture of my afterburner:

I feel like my pc crashed when the gpu clock and mem clock got to high, who knows.

 

[Tanston]

Personally I'd pick up a 2nd case fan to intake at the front of the case and mount the power supply fan down.

If you're putting the case on the floor and it's on carpet, either put something solid underneath to allow the fan some breathing room or mount the power supply fan up.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the advice, that's kinda what I was leaning towards putting another fan in the front. Now I need to decide if I want to order more parts or steal an old fan from my current computer.

I'll be putting the case on a hardwood floor so I should get some decent air coming in from underneath.

 

[LilJoka]

Thanks for the advice, that's kinda what I was leaning towards putting another fan in the front. Now I need to decide if I want to order more parts or steal an old fan from my current computer.

I'll be putting the case on a hardwood floor so I should get some decent air coming in from underneath.

No point, you aren't going to run into any issues.

 

[SerRodrik]

Okay. I'm looking into a replacement PC for about $800-$900 dollars, but I have no idea what I'm doing and I find all this vaguely incomprehensible. I'm very tempted to just buy a pre-built one to cut out the headache (I was thinking something like this). However, everyone constantly insists that building your own PC is cheaper and very easy to do.

Question 1: Is this build that I found in this guide reasonably high powered/a good value?

Question 2: Are there any other costs (ie operating systems, wireless etc) that I would need to shell out for?

Question 3: Would it be relatively easy to assemble?

 

[LilJoka]

Okay. I'm looking into a replacement PC for about $800-$900 dollars, but I have no idea what I'm doing and I find all this vaguely incomprehensible. I'm very tempted to just buy a pre-built one to cut out the headache (I was thinking something like this). However, everyone constantly insists that building your own PC is cheaper and very easy to do.

Question 1: Is this build that I found in this guide reasonably high powered/a good value?

Question 2: Are there any other costs (ie operating systems, wireless etc) that I would need to shell out for?

Question 3: Would it be relatively easy to assemble?

Don't know who made that, but its not good.
It has a Z170 board with a non-K CPU and 2133Mhz RAM.
CX series PSU is not reputable.
Going full ATX doesn't make sense unless you want a whole lot of nothing in the case. mATX would be better and you may consider ITX.

If you need wireless connection to the internet, then itll need a Wifi card or dongle.
OS will come as a separate cost as well as peripherals like mouse and keyboard, plus a monitor if you don't have one. Unless you plan to hook it up to your TV.

A really good value ITX build which has Wifi onboard and does not allow overclocking:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $947.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-05 13:03 EDT-0400

ITX would be the most difficult to assemble due to it being physically smaller, but all the same principals apply as any larger build.

Heres an mATX build
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($82.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($28.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $996.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-05 13:07 EDT-0400

 

[lostsupper]

Don't know who made that, but its not good.
It has a Z170 board with a non-K CPU and 2133Mhz RAM.
CX series PSU is not reputable.
Going full ATX doesn't make sense unless you want a whole lot of nothing in the case. mATX would be better and you may consider ITX.

If you need wireless connection to the internet, then itll need a Wifi card or dongle.
OS will come as a separate cost as well as peripherals like mouse and keyboard, plus a monitor if you don't have one. Unless you plan to hook it up to your TV.

A really good value ITX build which has Wifi onboard and does not allow overclocking:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($67.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($64.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $947.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-05 13:03 EDT-0400

ITX would be the most difficult to assemble due to it being physically smaller, but all the same principals apply as any larger build.

Heres an mATX build
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H170M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($82.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($389.99 @ B&H)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($69.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($28.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $996.30
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-05 13:07 EDT-0400

Fractal finally made a modern mATX case. The Define Mini C should be the recommended mATX now.