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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Plum

Member
How did you manage wiring this all together? I have a Nano S sitting unused in the corner of my room because I spent 2 hours trying to get all of the wires in the right spots and then gave up with bleeding fingers and went back to my ATX case. :<

Do you have a modular power supply? If not then get one or a Semi-Modular one, they make the building process so much easier whilst making your build look a lot cleaner.

EDIT: If you do have one then I can't offer any advice other than be patient unfortunately.
 
Do you have a modular power supply? If not then get one or a Semi-Modular one, they make the building process so much easier whilst making your build look a lot cleaner.

EDIT: If you do have one then I can't offer any advice other than be patient unfortunately.
Probably just a matter of patience then. I do have a modular PSU.
 

Ashhong

Member
I don't think it's the mouse. I'll click on something and then it'll freeze without that action happening. The blue circle will pop up shortly after. Maybe it's the RAM slot idk, I don't even know how to check that. I have basic knowledge about PCs and that's about it.

You can do trial and error. Take out all of your RAM except for one stick. If it still doesn't work, move it to another slot. If it STILL doesn't work then try one more RAM stick. If it STILL doesnt work then it probably isn't a RAM issue
 

Yaboosh

Super Sleuth
Is getting a 1070 stupid when I am sticking with my 3570k for now?

I am just 1080p right now, but I want to sometime in the next year get some sort of vr headset and figured it might be good to go with the slightly better card for just a bit more.

It is $380 for the 1070 with GoW4 included, and $260 for the 1060 without a game included. So really just a difference of around $60.
 
Hey everyone! I don't know if this is the right place to ask this but I really don't know where else to do it.

Anyways, within the past week or so my PC started freezing up a few minutes after booting it up. The mouse will move around but I can't click on anything at all, and nothing becomes highlighted to signify that the mouse is even over it. Anyone know what could be going on and how to fix it?

Can you acess the Task Manager and see what processes are running?

Specs, overclock?
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
Is getting a 1070 stupid when I am sticking with my 3570k for now?

I am just 1080p right now, but I want to sometime in the next year get some sort of vr headset and figured it might be good to go with the slightly better card for just a bit more.

It is $380 for the 1070 with GoW4 included, and $260 for the 1060 without a game included. So really just a difference of around $60.

Go for it. VR will thank you for it, and you can downsample for better image quality on your 1080p screen
 

Yaboosh

Super Sleuth
Go for it. VR will thank you for it, and you can downsample for better image quality on your 1080p screen


The only thing I worry about is my 3570k completely bottlenecking the 1070. I have it at 4.2ghz right now since I just installed a hyper212 evo. Changing the processor would involve changing the motherboard and probably the memory at that point so I have no real interest in doing that for a good long while.

My current video card is a 760 2gb so it is definitely showing its age right now.
 

LilJoka

Member
Hey everyone! I don't know if this is the right place to ask this but I really don't know where else to do it.

Anyways, within the past week or so my PC started freezing up a few minutes after booting it up. The mouse will move around but I can't click on anything at all, and nothing becomes highlighted to signify that the mouse is even over it. Anyone know what could be going on and how to fix it?

Check task manager details tab and determine what is eating up the resources.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Ok so I go with the SSD. How do I transfer my Windows install to it?

Macruim Reflect can mirror the drive. A fresh install isn't a bad idea though, and if you need to change the SATA mode from IDE to AHCI it will also be easier.

Changing SATA modes without reinstalling is possible though, but requires a registry edit.

My CPU says it's running at 100% at startup. Could this be an issue? Maybe causing the freezes?

100% at startup is normal, since it's starting Windows any anything that runs at boot. If it isn't going down from 100% that could be a problem.

The only thing I worry about is my 3570k completely bottlenecking the 1070. I have it at 4.2ghz right now since I just installed a hyper212 evo. Changing the processor would involve changing the motherboard and probably the memory at that point so I have no real interest in doing that for a good long while.

My current video card is a 760 2gb so it is definitely showing its age right now.

An overclocked 3570K would be fine with a 1070. You will probably want to consider upgrading everything on the next GPU upgrade though.
 

Ashhong

Member
Is getting a 1070 stupid when I am sticking with my 3570k for now?

I am just 1080p right now, but I want to sometime in the next year get some sort of vr headset and figured it might be good to go with the slightly better card for just a bit more.

It is $380 for the 1070 with GoW4 included, and $260 for the 1060 without a game included. So really just a difference of around $60.

Keep in mind that you can get Gears for about 30$ from all the people selling the bundled code. It won't really bottleneck you at 1080p imo. Your CPU can handle 60fps
 

Xux

Member
Well, my computer was fucked for like 20 minutes after I tried the EZ OC in the bios.

Then it just kinda fixed itself.

I love computers.
 

goober

Member
Has anything changed in the Small Form Factor build sheet since it was written 2 years ago? What would you recommend to change?
 

Grexeno

Member
Bought all the parts from this build today:

Here's a kickass build that's in your budget. 1440p IPS monitor, i5-6600K, GTX 1070, 16GB RAM, 500GB SSD, 2TB HDD, RGB-lit mechanical keyboard and gaming mouse.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($237.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($88.43 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($86.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.10 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING Video Card ($394.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.98 @ Amazon)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home Full - USB 32/64-bit ($119.00 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer G257HU smidpx 25.0" 60Hz Monitor ($269.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard ($137.40 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Corsair Sabre RGB Wired Optical Mouse ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1934.31
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-23 23:41 EDT-0400

I included overclockable parts in your build because with a budget like that, it would be a waste not to. Your performance will be amazing right out of the box, but a few years down the line, if you find yourself wanting a little bit more out of your PC, you can look up how to overclock an i5-6600K and squeeze some more performance out of it.

I went for the 1070 because the 1080 was really limiting my ability to include a top-tier keyboard and mouse, and because the GTX 1080 is sickeningly overkill for gaming at 1920x1080. Hell, the 1070 is too - which is why this build includes a 25-inch IPS 1440p monitor.

Let me know what you think!

Thanks a lot to QuantumSquid!
 
Done! I'll get some better photo's with my DSLR but this will do for now. All the cables at the back have been tidied but the pictures were just as I'd turned it on for the the first time.

The LED's round the desk aren't as gauche irl.
4HuyBZe.jpg


aQ6fyKw.jpg


oCxsRtH.jpg
 

Rizific

Member
looking for some case suggestions for a first time builder. ive sent my nephew my old pc parts but he still needs a few things for a complete system, a case being one of them. beginner friendly with some good features with a budget of $100.
 

Godan

Member
So just picked up the steelseries siberia 800 wireless headset should come tomorrow. I understand to use it with 7.1 sound I need to use it with an optical cable but if i do that wont i not be able to connect it to my PS4 as well?
 
Any idea how I can figure out what's causing performance issues? Borderlands 2 and GTA V are both chugging along on my rig at a little below the Nvidia recommended settings. Here's what I've got currently:

CPU: Intel Sandybridge i5-2500K Unlocked Core i5 Quad-Core Processor (3.30GHz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series H60
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I
Memory: Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3
Video Card: GTX 770 2GB
Power Supply: Corsair CP-9020015-UK Builder Series CX750

I assume the GPU is the bottleneck, but I'm suspicious about temperatures as well. There's at least 1 fan on constantly, due to limitations of power available on the motherboard, and I've squeezed a water cooler into the BitFenix case, and I'm sure the fan placement is non optimal.

Assuming the GPU is the issue, is there much I can do around the £200 mark?
 
looking for some case suggestions for a first time builder. ive sent my nephew my old pc parts but he still needs a few things for a complete system, a case being one of them. beginner friendly with some good features with a budget of $100.

Fractal Define S.
 

kuYuri

Member
Budget build was a success. Not bad for $508~, but it sure does highlight the limitations of buying certain budget parts. The Corsair 88R, despite being only about $10-15 cheaper than the 100R or 200R, really does feel compromised in comparison. Also, the drive cage is in such an awkward location, it's annoying that they don't let me move it forward more. Also, the mobo blocks the CPU 4-8 pin cutout for some reason, seems like a weird design oversight that seems to be a combination of the size of the mobo and the case itself.
 

Jezbollah

Member
Any idea how I can figure out what's causing performance issues? Borderlands 2 and GTA V are both chugging along on my rig at a little below the Nvidia recommended settings. Here's what I've got currently:

CPU: Intel Sandybridge i5-2500K Unlocked Core i5 Quad-Core Processor (3.30GHz)
CPU Cooler: Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series H60
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I
Memory: Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR3
Video Card: GTX 770 2GB
Power Supply: Corsair CP-9020015-UK Builder Series CX750

I assume the GPU is the bottleneck, but I'm suspicious about temperatures as well. There's at least 1 fan on constantly, due to limitations of power available on the motherboard, and I've squeezed a water cooler into the BitFenix case, and I'm sure the fan placement is non optimal.

Assuming the GPU is the issue, is there much I can do around the £200 mark?

OK so your budget of £200 puts you in the high up GTX1050 range (actually thats around £150-£160) or the RX 470 for bang on £200.

The RX 470 will give you a boost of around 50% performance
http://hwbench.com/vgas/radeon-rx-470-vs-geforce-gtx-770

A GTX 1050ti will be a lot cheaper but only give you around 25%
http://hwbench.com/vgas/geforce-gtx-1050-ti-vs-geforce-gtx-770

If you were to extend your budget to £270-£300 you would be in the ballpark for a GTX 1060, which would give you a major boost of around 110%
http://hwbench.com/vgas/geforce-gtx-1060-vs-geforce-gtx-770

I suppose it really depends on your budget vs your wish to play any future games.
 

Landford

Banned
Wich AMD processor is the best for gaming in a budget? One that would be an upgrade from the FX 8320. I know Intel is the best, but their prices in my country are really high.
 
OK so your budget of £200 puts you in the high up GTX1050 range (actually thats around £150-£160) or the RX 470 for bang on £200.

The RX 470 will give you a boost of around 50% performance
http://hwbench.com/vgas/radeon-rx-470-vs-geforce-gtx-770

A GTX 1050ti will be a lot cheaper but only give you around 25%
http://hwbench.com/vgas/geforce-gtx-1050-ti-vs-geforce-gtx-770

If you were to extend your budget to £270-£300 you would be in the ballpark for a GTX 1060, which would give you a major boost of around 110%
http://hwbench.com/vgas/geforce-gtx-1060-vs-geforce-gtx-770

I suppose it really depends on your budget vs your wish to play any future games.
Could probably stretch it to a 1060 given an extra month or so, and given that boost. I'm playing over Steam Link, so 1080 60 is top end. So long as it's smoothish that's good enough. Be looking to play the likes of Mass Effect Andromeda and Watch Dogs 2 at some point in the next year, whatever comes along I suppose.

Cheers
 

Clipse

Member
Hello all! I'm about ready to order my parts this week and had a few questions before I pull the trigger.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/ Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

1. PCPartPicker is estimating that this build could use up to 375W, so would it be okay to downgrade my PSU to the 650W version? (EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply)

2. I can't find many reviews on the Asus Z170-PRO that the OT recommends and it's only $5 cheaper than the Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO which has many good reviews. Which should I go with?

I'd appreciate any help I could get!
 
Hello all! I'm about ready to order my parts this week and had a few questions before I pull the trigger.

CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X 8GB Video Card
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/ Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply

1. PCPartPicker is estimating that this build could use up to 375W, so would it be okay to downgrade my PSU to the 650W version? (EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply)

2. I can't find many reviews on the Asus Z170-PRO that the OT recommends and it's only $5 cheaper than the Asus MAXIMUS VIII HERO which has many good reviews. Which should I go with?

I'd appreciate any help I could get!

650W is plenty.

The differences between those two boards are minor. Get whichever is cheapest or more aesthetically pleasing to you.

Get a better cooler from Noctua or Cryorig.
 
:(

Went to turn my PC on today and....nothing. Absolutely no response when hitting the power button.

Built it in late 2011. 750W power supply. How long do those things last?

Used it just a few nights ago. Temps seemed normal.

What can I do to check what exactly is busted inside?
 

Bloodember

Member
:(

Went to turn my PC on today and....nothing. Absolutely no response when hitting the power button.

Built it in late 2011. 750W power supply. How long do those things last?

Used it just a few nights ago. Temps seemed normal.

What can I do to check what exactly is busted inside?
Did you make sure the power supply was on and plugged in?
 
Did you make sure the power supply was on and plugged in?

Yep.

Looks like it might be a dead motherboard. I just removed all RAM and the graphics card and I'm getting no beeps or anything when pressing the power. The motherboard LED light isn't on either.

Tried different outlets, unplugged/replugged everything. I'm at a loss.

Can ferrite beads on an HDMI cable fry this thing? I had the PC off (but not the PSU) when I put them on my HDMI cable this evening. That's the only different thing I could imagine caused it. I did no other tinkering since it turned on a few nights ago.

What a bummer. Feels like having a PC was more of a hassle than anything. Maybe I'll sell what I can and just stick with consoles.
 
Yep.

Looks like it might be a dead motherboard. I just removed all RAM and the graphics card and I'm getting no beeps or anything when pressing the power. The motherboard LED light isn't on either.

Tried different outlets, unplugged/replugged everything. I'm at a loss.

Can ferrite beads on an HDMI cable fry this thing? I had the PC off (but not the PSU) when I put them on my HDMI cable this evening. That's the only different thing I could imagine caused it. I did no other tinkering since it turned on a few nights ago.

What a bummer. Feels like having a PC was more of a hassle than anything. Maybe I'll sell what I can and just stick with consoles.
Have you tried a different power supply?

What power supply do you have?

What are your computer's specs?
 

inner-G

Banned
Yep.

Looks like it might be a dead motherboard. I just removed all RAM and the graphics card and I'm getting no beeps or anything when pressing the power. The motherboard LED light isn't on either.

Tried different outlets, unplugged/replugged everything. I'm at a loss.

Can ferrite beads on an HDMI cable fry this thing? I had the PC off (but not the PSU) when I put them on my HDMI cable this evening. That's the only different thing I could imagine caused it. I did no other tinkering since it turned on a few nights ago.

What a bummer. Feels like having a PC was more of a hassle than anything. Maybe I'll sell what I can and just stick with consoles.

Could definitely be PSU if no case fans or anything spin up...

When you turn it 'on' can you eject the CD drives or anything?
 
Could definitely be PSU if no case fans or anything spin up...

When you turn it 'on' can you eject the CD drives or anything?

Nope. None of the drives are opening when plugged in and "on". None of the fans run, either. If the motherboard is fried, would the fans still power on if the PSU was working properly?

Still not sure if I'm looking at a PSU issue or a motherboard issue. I'd much prefer it to be a PSU issue. Don't really want to shell out the cash for a new mobo/CPU right now, I think I can get a few more good years out of that combo.
 

inner-G

Banned
Nope. None of the drives are opening when plugged in and "on". None of the fans run, either. If the motherboard is fried, would the fans still power on if the PSU was working properly?

Still not sure if I'm looking at a PSU issue or a motherboard issue. I'd much prefer it to be a PSU issue. Don't really want to shell out the cash for a new mobo/CPU right now, I think I can get a few more good years out of that combo.
It's hard to say 100%, but I wouldn't be surprised if it were the PSU by what it is doing. A lot of times, motherboards will beep at you or something when they go bad. Not being able to eject and not having any case fans going makes me think there's no juice coming from the PSU

You could always grab one locally at Best Buy or something, then return it if it didn't work. If you have any nerdy friends, they may have old PSUs laying around you could test with.
 
It's hard to say 100%, but I wouldn't be surprised if it were the PSU by what it is doing. A lot of times, motherboards will beep at you or something when they go bad. Not being able to eject and not having any case fans going makes me think there's no juice coming from the PSU

You could always grab one locally at Best Buy or something, then return it if it didn't work. If you have any nerdy friends, they may have old PSUs laying around you could test with.

Unfortunately none of my friends have a PC, so borrowing another PSU is out of the question.

Do you recommend the paper clip test? I just turned my apartment inside out and I can't find one, so I'll have to bring one back from work tomorrow. I saw Corsair had an official video of it on Youtube, so I'm guessing it's worth a shot?

Also, can dead PSU's "fry" a whole system? I'm terrified I'll get a new unit and discover everything else went with it.
 

Bloodember

Member
Unfortunately none of my friends have a PC, so borrowing another PSU is out of the question.

Do you recommend the paper clip test? I just turned my apartment inside out and I can't find one, so I'll have to bring one back from work tomorrow. I saw Corsair had an official video of it on Youtube, so I'm guessing it's worth a shot?

Also, can dead PSU's "fry" a whole system? I'm terrified I'll get a new unit and discover everything else went with it.
If your motherboard is dead your fans should still spin up. Sounds like your psu is dead.
 
If your motherboard is dead your fans should still spin up. Sounds like your psu is dead.

OK. A step in the right direction in pinpointing the problem.

I'll give it the paperclip test tomorrow. If I can't generate anything from that, we'll know.

Can these things just generally kind of...die out after 5ish or so years?
 

NJDEN

Member
I'm starting to look into the benefits of M.2 and I'm not understanding what's going on:

Can someone tell me the difference between this Samsung 950 Pro M.2 and this Samsung 850 Evo M.2...

They are both M.2 drives right? I'm a little confused at the disparity between the two... I see the EVO says Sata III M.2, but if it's Sata, how can it be M.2?

From what I understand, the Pro is PCI based, thus faster... while the EVO is Sata based, thus slower? Hoping someone could confirm or clarify for me. Thanks!
 

desmax

Member
I'm starting to look into the benefits of M.2 and I'm not understanding what's going on:

Can someone tell me the difference between this Samsung 950 Pro M.2 and this Samsung 850 Evo M.2...

They are both M.2 drives right? I'm a little confused at the disparity between the two... I see the EVO says Sata III M.2, but if it's Sata, how can it be M.2?

From what I understand, the Pro is PCI based, thus faster... while the EVO is Sata based, thus slower? Hoping someone could confirm or clarify for me. Thanks!

SSD have gotten so fast that even the SATA cables and ports can't keep up with it, so they developed a type of SSD that connect directly to the motherboard via PCI-E.

Meaning these new models are even more faster than the standard ones, at least from what I understand
 

NJDEN

Member
SSD have gotten so fast that even the SATA cables and ports can't keep up with it, so they developed a type of SSD that connect directly to the motherboard via PCI-E.

Meaning these new models are even more faster than the standard ones, at least from what I understand

Pretty much.


Thanks guys. Just seems weird that they'd both be M.2 compatible, yet base one off PCI and one off Sata. I would have thought that an M.2 slot is its own thing with its own speeds.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Cooking the new CPU in overnight. Hopefully can do 4.5Ghz under 1.4V
Thanks guys. Just seems weird that they'd both be M.2 compatible, yet base one off PCI and one off Sata. I would have thought that an M.2 slot is its own thing with its own speeds.
Yeah it's a pain, especially with the pin keys.
 

Bloodember

Member
OK. A step in the right direction in pinpointing the problem.

I'll give it the paperclip test tomorrow. If I can't generate anything from that, we'll know.

Can these things just generally kind of...die out after 5ish or so years?

PSU's can just die randomly whenever, I always keep an extra handy just to be safe.
 

fulsome

Member
Hi, I have a problem with my computer that acts up randomly. Seems like the general tech support thread in OT is pretty old so I thought I would add it here.

My computer will sometimes not want to boot up. There is no post beep, actually, there is no beep at all. The computer fans turn on, I see that the dvd-rom drive light is lighting up, but the computer itself won't boot.

When this happens, I usually put it on its side (it is normally vertical, so I put it horizontally), and try again. Sometimes this fixes the problem, sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't, I pull the RAM and re-set it. If that doesn't work, I do the same with my HDDs (I have both a SSD and regular one). And eventually, it'll boot up.

Once resolved, the PC works fine, no issues, sometimes this fix will last for weeks, sometimes, a few days. I'm told that this might be my PSU, but I can't quite tell. Thoughts?

This PC is probably 6-7 years old now, so I'm not sure I want to invest in it much. I'm wondering if it is worth just replacing the thing.
 
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