Does the computer shut off after a few seconds? That's usually a sign that the CPU cooler isn't making proper (consistent) contact.
Also make sure you don't have any USB thumb drives plugged in.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!
- Thread starter Hazaro
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- Status
Does the computer shut off after a few seconds? That's usually a sign that the CPU cooler isn't making proper (consistent) contact.
Also make sure you don't have any USB thumb drives plugged in.
Captain Stew
Banned
I've been using a NH-D14 for yours on my 2500k at 5 GHZ, you'll love it.
Veritigo_X
Member
Just a heads up, Samsung's new 960 series of M.2 SSDs are out (though on backorder). With the new series, both the EVO and PRO versions use PCIe and are way faster than the 950 series at the same price.
Once it boots, there are no issues with it. I can use it until I shut down. I do turn on/off my computer every day, I don't leave it on all the time. When it boots properly, sometimes I can go with my daily routine for weeks, sometimes, it is only good for a few days.
There are no USB thumb drives plugged in, only ones for my mouse/keyboard.
does anyone know if the new (2016 model) Intel NUC would be good for video editing/encoding. it has a I7 6770HQ CPU. I currently use my surface pro 2 but the cpu is maxed constantly when encoding.
If would be for 1080p video at the moment (and foreseeable future). Its not for gaming (will have a separate pc for gaming).
I know that a tower pc would be better but I'm looking to get something small form factor (ideally around nuc size).
Any other product suggestions would be appreciated.
If would be for 1080p video at the moment (and foreseeable future). Its not for gaming (will have a separate pc for gaming).
I know that a tower pc would be better but I'm looking to get something small form factor (ideally around nuc size).
Any other product suggestions would be appreciated.
Bloodember
Member
I did a google search, seems like it would be good for video editing.
Take a look at the ASRock DeskMini 110.
It's slightly larger than a NUC using the same principles (low power, laptop memory etc), but it fits a desktop processor with a TDP up to 65W. That means you could use the desktop Intel Core i7-6700, which will destroy the mobile-based processors you get in the NUC.
The main disadvantage is not many ports, but you'd have that problem with the NUC too. There's a video here where you can gauge the size compared to an average NUC.
I've had mine for months. Seems like this is limited to around 3 HUE+ units.
razgriz417
Member
Hmm the link to the spreadsheet isn't working anymore.
So I'm in the process of trying to put together a build list for a micro atx build and was wondering if I could bother you guys with some suggestions. I'm looking to go single gpu, with an i7 6700k with preferably a board with 4 ram slots and room for a wireless card.
Any suggestions besides the gigabyte board mentioned in Hanzo's build guide (GA-z170m-d3h)? I see alot of DOA reviews on newegg and it has me worried about this board
I plan to reuse my 970 for now and probably upgrade to the 11XX later on. How big of a PSU would you all recommend?
edit: forgot to add this rig will be mainly used for gaming and am looking at sub $150 micro atx boards
So I'm in the process of trying to put together a build list for a micro atx build and was wondering if I could bother you guys with some suggestions. I'm looking to go single gpu, with an i7 6700k with preferably a board with 4 ram slots and room for a wireless card.
Any suggestions besides the gigabyte board mentioned in Hanzo's build guide (GA-z170m-d3h)? I see alot of DOA reviews on newegg and it has me worried about this board
I plan to reuse my 970 for now and probably upgrade to the 11XX later on. How big of a PSU would you all recommend?
edit: forgot to add this rig will be mainly used for gaming and am looking at sub $150 micro atx boards
StormyTheRabbit
Member
Budget: $950-$1000 USA
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming 5, Video Editing 2, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1080. Might add a second 1080 monitor later. Don't need anything higher at the moment
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Looking for 60 FPS. World of Warcraft, The Witcher 3, Mass Effect Andromeda, Overwatch. Games within the last 2 years - Games coming out in next two years. I would like to run at fairly high settings, but can manage if they aren't SUPER ULTRA.
When will you build?: No Deadline, Hoping maybe to build within the next month or two. Unclear if the holidays help or hurt prices.
Will you be overclocking?: No
I hope I'm posting correctly here. I've pieced together a build on PC Part Picker that fits my needs/budget fairly well from what I understand. I'm a little out of the loop on current hardware unfortunately.
I was hoping someone could look at my build and see if I made any MAJOR mistakes with compatibility or simply picked a piece of shit part for something haha.
I appreciate all the feedback!
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/nCX22R
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming 5, Video Editing 2, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) 5.
Monitor Resolution: 1080. Might add a second 1080 monitor later. Don't need anything higher at the moment
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Looking for 60 FPS. World of Warcraft, The Witcher 3, Mass Effect Andromeda, Overwatch. Games within the last 2 years - Games coming out in next two years. I would like to run at fairly high settings, but can manage if they aren't SUPER ULTRA.
When will you build?: No Deadline, Hoping maybe to build within the next month or two. Unclear if the holidays help or hurt prices.
Will you be overclocking?: No
I hope I'm posting correctly here. I've pieced together a build on PC Part Picker that fits my needs/budget fairly well from what I understand. I'm a little out of the loop on current hardware unfortunately.
I was hoping someone could look at my build and see if I made any MAJOR mistakes with compatibility or simply picked a piece of shit part for something haha.
I appreciate all the feedback!
http://pcpartpicker.com/list/nCX22R
It's just a lower clocked 6700k, around 40% slower. Much better than the surface though. Can't expect miricles from this though.
It'll work but it'll still run maxed out while encoding, since that how encoding works, it'll go as fast as you can.
Baron_Calamity
Member
I need a monitor recommendation and none of the ones listed in the OP fit the bill.
My current monitor is a my current monitor is an almost 7 year old Samsung P2770. The specs are the same as the Samsung P2770HD sans the tuner and speakers.
I do all my gaming on my desk and I would like a larger display than the P2770 but I'm not looking for any monitor larger than 32 inches. Probably 28-29 would be fine.
Besides my pc, I would also like to hook up my Xbox one and a PS4 pro. I don't know if 4k is a must or not.
My current monitor is a my current monitor is an almost 7 year old Samsung P2770. The specs are the same as the Samsung P2770HD sans the tuner and speakers.
I do all my gaming on my desk and I would like a larger display than the P2770 but I'm not looking for any monitor larger than 32 inches. Probably 28-29 would be fine.
Besides my pc, I would also like to hook up my Xbox one and a PS4 pro. I don't know if 4k is a must or not.
Changed the GPU and memory (it's a dollar less and will look better with that mobo). The 970 is old tech, go for a 1060.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($244.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.58 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $883.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-08 13:30 EST-0500
EDIT:
You could even bump to a i5-6600 on that budget:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.90 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($46.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($244.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.58 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Cooler Master R4-L2R-20AC-GP 69.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($7.58 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Asus VX238H-W 23.0" Monitor ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $933.86
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-08 13:34 EST-0500
ISee
Member
Try this:
Pros:
Stronger CPU and overclockable. You should be able to reach 4.4 ghz easily (800mhz faster, which will come very handy in the future). --> ~20% stronger CPU with better cooling.
The PNY GTX 1060 isn't the 'best' 1060 out there, but it is definetly ~30% faster and cheaper then a GTX 970. It also comes with more VRAM, which is nice to have even at 1080p
16gb of ddr4 300. Faster RAM scales surprisingly well with intel cpus and 16gb are becoming the norm.
Cons:
Slightly over your budget, but it's a lot more powerful.
StormyTheRabbit
Member
Thank you guys so much for your recommendations! I seriously appreciate it!
I'm thinking about that $933 Vector!
I'm thinking about that $933 Vector!
No problem, you did a good job putting it together. Plenty for what you want to do.
Ghostofst4rm4n
Neo Member
I think I am finally ready to build a new PC. But I'm a bit worried that I may not be going in the right direction build wise. The PC would primarily be used for video editing, but would also double for smaller games. I already have the case (corsair vengeance c70). I'm not so caught up on aesthetics as I am functionality. My biggest worry is that the power supply I'm looking at has very mixed reviews. I'm looking to stay in the $800-$900 price bracket if possible. Here is build now though:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/hgFzZ8
And feedback or changes would be greatly appreciated.
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/hgFzZ8
And feedback or changes would be greatly appreciated.
Sooo I am still in my quest to get rid of the coil whine from my new Sapphire Nitro R9 Fury. On my system with a Corsair RM650 PSU, I get major whine. On my friends system with a Cooler Master V1000, there is no whine.
Does that mean it's definitely the PSU? The sound is 100% coming from the GPU, which I guess is caused by the PSU. I just purchased an EVGA 650w G2 in hopes that it will fix it. I mean, 650w should be more than enough right? I also have an i5 4670k but it's not even overclocked. Or do I need to go with more wattage?
In this day and age there's no need to not get a Gold power supply IMO. I just bought this one and it has great reviews. Super cheap too. Seems to be out of stock but more very soon
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285899-REG/evga_220_g2_0650_y1_nex_supernova_650g_gold.html
Does that mean it's definitely the PSU? The sound is 100% coming from the GPU, which I guess is caused by the PSU. I just purchased an EVGA 650w G2 in hopes that it will fix it. I mean, 650w should be more than enough right? I also have an i5 4670k but it's not even overclocked. Or do I need to go with more wattage?
In this day and age there's no need to not get a Gold power supply IMO. I just bought this one and it has great reviews. Super cheap too. Seems to be out of stock but more very soon
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285899-REG/evga_220_g2_0650_y1_nex_supernova_650g_gold.html
Coil whine is a dark art. It could be any component, but usually the combination of GPU&PSU. You just have to try.
Alright..just have to pray then. If this doesn't workout I'm just going to return the PSU and deal with it.
Ghostofst4rm4n
Neo Member
Hmm... I guess I just got it in my head you didn't have to get a gold rated power supply. Thank you for the new option. I'll be on the lookout.
I've got a netwqorking issue that I odnt think anyone can help with, but I'll try asking anyway.
Pretty much my internet will sometimes load certain things very slowly(i.e. webpages, streams, etc.) When I look at my network transfer speeds they are way below average(I'm talking ~100kb/sec if Im streaming something leading to an unplayable buffering mess) but if I fire up Steam or Origin and download a game/update during the same session and check the network transfer speeds they are always going at the average speed of my connection. Sometimes it will be like this for a few hours or even a few days and I have no idea why it happens.
Anyone know what the cause might be? I've tried resetting my router and this occasionally works, but usually it will only go at average speed for 30 seconds or so and then drop way below average again.(And of course clients like Steam, Origin, or BNet run at full speed no matter what)
Pretty much my internet will sometimes load certain things very slowly(i.e. webpages, streams, etc.) When I look at my network transfer speeds they are way below average(I'm talking ~100kb/sec if Im streaming something leading to an unplayable buffering mess) but if I fire up Steam or Origin and download a game/update during the same session and check the network transfer speeds they are always going at the average speed of my connection. Sometimes it will be like this for a few hours or even a few days and I have no idea why it happens.
Anyone know what the cause might be? I've tried resetting my router and this occasionally works, but usually it will only go at average speed for 30 seconds or so and then drop way below average again.(And of course clients like Steam, Origin, or BNet run at full speed no matter what)
I'm sure you don't neeeeeeed to get a gold one. But for maybe 20$ or so more why not? Think about all that it's doing, should get a high quality one if possible imo.
keeblerdrow
Member
I need a new PC, Emergency Edition.
So I have a PC that is hitting its death spiral. It's 5 or 6 years old. Rocking an SSD, an i5 2500K, and a GTX 660Ti. It's dunzo. Over the last 6 months it's slowly been showing signs of hardware failure, but it has really ramped up in the last month. I finally have my budget for a new PC together as of tonight, and sure enough, Windows has hard crashed on me twice tonight and I have load times for my browser. I think it's likely the SATA ports that are going out, as there was a defect to the chipset I purchased. I also know that when these go out, they corrupt any drives that were hooked up to them. So my mobo is a wash, the drives are a wash, the CPU isn't worth finding another motherboard for it, and my video card is ancient. Out with the old, in with the new. I hate my case, so I'm not even keeping that. And my monitors need to go, too.
Let's fill out the survey in the OP:
Decisions I've already made:
I'm with Intel. I'm with Nvidia. That's from years of putting up with bullshit drivers on ATI and the downsides of running AMD processors I got for cheaper.
i5 6600 or 6600K, just to leave myself an out if I want to give the CPU longer life in the future. Motherboard is whatever works with this, I'm not picky. Tell me if I should be.
16GB of RAM, but I don't know anything about the new RAM types or clockspeeds. Higher numbers are better?
250gb SSD with a 1TB 7200 rpm HDD.
GTX 1060 6GB version. I'd like a 1070, but I don't want to blow my budget on the video card.
650W or higher modular power supply.
What I'm agonizing over:
Case. Case. Case. I have always just given up when it came to cases and got cheaper ones. And I've hated how they looked and usually hated how they fit everything. Right now I have a Cooler Master HAF 912. I want to throw it in the garbage. I'd like something that looks slick, in the $100 range.
Monitors. I saw some AOC 27" 1080p ones at Best Buy for $180 and almost got one, even with it being off brand. But I was going over the upsides and downsides of all sorts of things all weekend. 4K seems like something I won't ever be putting a native signal to it. I'm about 2.5 feet away from my monitor, so a 32inch, even curved, screen will cause eye strain. I'm not sure what I need to be looking for and looking to avoid with monitors. Any advice would be appreciated.
So I have a PC that is hitting its death spiral. It's 5 or 6 years old. Rocking an SSD, an i5 2500K, and a GTX 660Ti. It's dunzo. Over the last 6 months it's slowly been showing signs of hardware failure, but it has really ramped up in the last month. I finally have my budget for a new PC together as of tonight, and sure enough, Windows has hard crashed on me twice tonight and I have load times for my browser. I think it's likely the SATA ports that are going out, as there was a defect to the chipset I purchased. I also know that when these go out, they corrupt any drives that were hooked up to them. So my mobo is a wash, the drives are a wash, the CPU isn't worth finding another motherboard for it, and my video card is ancient. Out with the old, in with the new. I hate my case, so I'm not even keeping that. And my monitors need to go, too.
Let's fill out the survey in the OP:
- Budget: Price Range + Country: $1000 for the PC itself. More if I decide to invest in a new monitor. USA
- Main Use 1-5: Light Gaming (4), Gaming(5), Emulation (3), Video Editing (1), Streaming games in HD (3), 3D/Model work (1), General Usage (5).
- Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Current monitor is a 27" 1080p (actually sold as a TV)
Are you going to upgrade later? We are upgrading now, or not for a few years.
Are you buying a new monitor? If the price and tech is right.
- List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: World of Warcraft, Overwatch, Battlefield 1, Bioshock Remastered, Dark Souls III, Tyranny, Civ 6
Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? I don't demand 60. I only demand stable framerates.
How important is PhysX / SuperSampling / CUDA to you? I'd like to utilize PhysX. I think I supersampled Dark Souls 1 & 2, but have never done anything else. So I'm not huge into it.
- Looking to reuse any parts? Prefer all parts gone. New rig. Maybe keep the speakers.
- When will you build? Do you have a deadline? My computer is actively dying. I have some WoW raiding I'd like to not miss. My desktop is the only browsing machine I have besides my phone. I don't think I can wait. Days rather than weeks. I'd like to have the parts ordered by Friday.
- Will you be overclocking? Nope.
Decisions I've already made:
I'm with Intel. I'm with Nvidia. That's from years of putting up with bullshit drivers on ATI and the downsides of running AMD processors I got for cheaper.
i5 6600 or 6600K, just to leave myself an out if I want to give the CPU longer life in the future. Motherboard is whatever works with this, I'm not picky. Tell me if I should be.
16GB of RAM, but I don't know anything about the new RAM types or clockspeeds. Higher numbers are better?
250gb SSD with a 1TB 7200 rpm HDD.
GTX 1060 6GB version. I'd like a 1070, but I don't want to blow my budget on the video card.
650W or higher modular power supply.
What I'm agonizing over:
Case. Case. Case. I have always just given up when it came to cases and got cheaper ones. And I've hated how they looked and usually hated how they fit everything. Right now I have a Cooler Master HAF 912. I want to throw it in the garbage. I'd like something that looks slick, in the $100 range.
Monitors. I saw some AOC 27" 1080p ones at Best Buy for $180 and almost got one, even with it being off brand. But I was going over the upsides and downsides of all sorts of things all weekend. 4K seems like something I won't ever be putting a native signal to it. I'm about 2.5 feet away from my monitor, so a 32inch, even curved, screen will cause eye strain. I'm not sure what I need to be looking for and looking to avoid with monitors. Any advice would be appreciated.
Hey guys. A bit of a specific question, but I'm sure some will remember what I'm referring to. Remember that HP deal earlier this year for the gaming pc with the 980ti? Well I have one, here are the specs
16GB DDR4-2133 DIMM (2x8GB) RAM
1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6G 3.5 2nd HDD
SuperMulti DVD Burner
500W Power supply
Windows 10 Home 64-bit OS
6th Generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700 quad-core processor [3.4GHz, 8MB Shared Cache]
6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 980Ti [DL DVI-I, HDMI, DP, DP, DP]
256GB 3D SSD
I remember there was talk about this PC being tough to upgrade in the future. It's I mid size tower. Will a 1080 fit and work in this rig? Has anyone seen others upgrading from the 980ti in here with or without issues?
16GB DDR4-2133 DIMM (2x8GB) RAM
1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6G 3.5 2nd HDD
SuperMulti DVD Burner
500W Power supply
Windows 10 Home 64-bit OS
6th Generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700 quad-core processor [3.4GHz, 8MB Shared Cache]
6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 980Ti [DL DVI-I, HDMI, DP, DP, DP]
256GB 3D SSD
I remember there was talk about this PC being tough to upgrade in the future. It's I mid size tower. Will a 1080 fit and work in this rig? Has anyone seen others upgrading from the 980ti in here with or without issues?
So there's two ways you could go.
1) Non-overclocking, but with a GTX 1070.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($191.91 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.90 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus B150M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($61.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($82.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card ($379.99 @ B&H)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $992.62
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-09 02:23 EST-0500
2) Overclockable, dropped down to a GTX 1060.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($235.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.90 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($149.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory ($82.99 @ Best Buy)
Storage: Crucial MX300 275GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.98 @ B&H)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($249.18 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Blue) ATX Mid Tower Case ($66.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Cooler Master 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $993.90
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-09 02:25 EST-0500
They're both good bases, and I've tried to go with parts that are known for reliabilty or having a long warranty (such as the V550 PSU and WD Blue hard drive). You can't go wrong with the S340 Elite case, it's easy to build in and looks sleek - just ask some of the GAFfers on here
You could go with faster memory on the overclocking build (3000MHz would be ideal) but I didn't choose slower memory on the non-overclocking build as it wasn't any cheaper and it will just downclock automatically anyway.Easy way - take a tape measure out and see how long the card is inside the machine, and make a note of what power plugs are connected to it, then find a GTX 1080 that is the same length or shorter and uses the same power plugs or less. Most GTX 1080s use either a single 8-pin or two 8-pins/one 8-pin and a 6-pin.
Cross post in case anyone here is interested.
WTS
Gold rated seller with lots of high cost item history.
GTX 980TI Hybrid $340 shipping included
Paypal only.
In great condition, upgraded to a 1080 for some extra horse power for 3440x1440 resolution.
Everything is fine now, but I just got a bit of a scare with my PC refusing to boot into windows 10, freezing on the mobo's Asus logo. Had to completely power down and try again multiple times, sometimes it showed an ''automatic repair'' in text but it'd freeze on it, but ultimately after many tries the automatic repair showed it's little animation and succeeded, told me "“Your PC did not start correctly''. It gave me the option to restart and fortunately that worked just fine.
Anything I ought to do now? What could cause this? Things look absolutely normal, but I'm a bit afraid of powering this baby off now.
I'm trying to google it but most people seem to get stuck on the automatic repair bit, yikes D:
Anything I ought to do now? What could cause this? Things look absolutely normal, but I'm a bit afraid of powering this baby off now.
I'm trying to google it but most people seem to get stuck on the automatic repair bit, yikes D:
flipswitch
Member
How does everybody deal with Windows updates when gaming?
It's always downloading, ( well not always) but of late a few times it would start downloading while I have a game runnning and my ping goes crazy.
It's always downloading, ( well not always) but of late a few times it would start downloading while I have a game runnning and my ping goes crazy.
Nostremitus
Member
Reluctantly
Awesome thank you
I only got coil whine on my rx480 on batman arkham citys start-screen, and the card was screaming loud.
So guess its also some software-stuff that is badly written when it happens.
Yeah mine did randomly after a Win10 update. AMD driver fixed it. Sounded like a tornado was coming out of my case.
Hi all,
I'm looking for a new monitor to replace my 12(?) year old 1680*1050 Dell, but don't really know where to start, hoping I can get some recommendations.
My PC is a Skylake i7/GTX 960 OC 4GB, so I think 4K is a bit optimistic, but would 1440p be too much performance wise? If so, 1080p is fine.
Ideally I'd like something 25" or more, but probably couldn't justify spending more than £250 (UK based) unless it was a real bargain.
Want it to be beautiful and not too fussed about response rate (although obviously the lower the better as it is for gaming), so I'm kind of in the middle on the image quality versus response preference.
I looked at the picks on the first page, but they seem pretty old, anything else anyone would recommend? Thanks in advance for any help.
I'm looking for a new monitor to replace my 12(?) year old 1680*1050 Dell, but don't really know where to start, hoping I can get some recommendations.
My PC is a Skylake i7/GTX 960 OC 4GB, so I think 4K is a bit optimistic, but would 1440p be too much performance wise? If so, 1080p is fine.
Ideally I'd like something 25" or more, but probably couldn't justify spending more than £250 (UK based) unless it was a real bargain.
Want it to be beautiful and not too fussed about response rate (although obviously the lower the better as it is for gaming), so I'm kind of in the middle on the image quality versus response preference.
I looked at the picks on the first page, but they seem pretty old, anything else anyone would recommend? Thanks in advance for any help.
IAmtheFMan
Member
Updated my PSU to a 750W EVGA. Still having crashing issues. Now it's basically any time I run even Chrome.
I'm gonna bite the bullet and change out my GPU. Before, at times it would crash and I had the "thread stuck in device driver" error at times. After wiping out the driver and re-installing, it still did this. I think I'm pretty much set pinning this on my GPU at this point.
Damn, really sorry it didn't help.
FlammableD
Banned
I've started like 3 overclocking guides and got lost immediately. can I just click the OC Tuner button in the BIOS and hope for the best?
lostsupper
Banned
Nope. What exactly is confusing you?
FlammableD
Banned
All of it I guess. I don't know which numbers need to go up, what needs to go down, how I do that safely
the oc button took my cpu mhz from 3700 to 4284, but took my ram down from 1600 to 1359? the voltage doesn't seem to have changed but guides keep saying that's what's required to overclock?
Its highly susceptible at high fps.
Real easy:
Core Overclocking
Skylake comes with far more freedom to tweak than Haswell, but this also means more complexity when you are in pursuit of the absolute best settings possible.
0. Update your UEFI.
1. Manually set your cache ratio and ram to stock. Don't even use XMP profiles. Hell, turn your GPU's overclock off.
2. All Skylake CPUs so far can hit 4.4GHz. Try 4.4GHz at ~1.35v. It should work and be stable. If not, apply 1.4v. Stable? Good.
3. Just go up a multiplier. Increase voltage if you crash during stress testing with our x264 test. Remember, recommended maximum voltage is 1.45v. Never run a stress test and leave without monitoring the temperatures for the first 2 minutes.
4. Eventually you will find the highest overclock you can hit without breaking 1.45v and this overclock will pass x264 test overnight. Another option is to try Prime95 v27.9, but v28.9 is overkill and masochistic. To read more about different stress tests and to access quick download links to them (including out modified x264 test), check the "Stress Testing" spoiler.
For voltage tuning just start with manual so you can see where your CPU falls into place.
Then I'd use Offset (personally) to slot in your load voltage. Simply load your CPU in Windows then add or subtract (that is the offset voltage) from desired.
lostsupper
Banned
This is from the Asus Skylake guide. It seems like he needs a beginner guide that starts with an explanation of the basic concepts. That might be a really helpful addition to the next OT.
NeroAngelo
Banned
Is the Cryorig H7 a significant upgrade over my corsair h60 or would I be better off saving up for an h100i?
I'm looking to overclock my 4770k, but I'm not quite happy with the temperatures I'm getting with the base clock speed.
I'm looking to overclock my 4770k, but I'm not quite happy with the temperatures I'm getting with the base clock speed.
From the little reviews I've seen they're about the same.
Also I'd look into the Artic Cooling Liquid Freezer 240 instead of the h100i
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