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"I Need a New PC!" 2016 Plus Ultra! HBM2, VR, 144Hz, and 4K for all!

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Ifrit

Member
Unless u have a i7-6xxx lieing around you can't use the z170 motherboard (because u have to update the bios for it to support i7-7xxx). Therefore, the default choice would be the z270.

Thank you!

I actualy ordered the Z170 first, but managed to cancel it since it does seems to have to be updated first, got the z270

Hopefully everything goes well
 

Primus

Member
Anyone else still running with an i7 920 or thereabouts? I'm considering finally upgrading, but curious to hear how other folks are getting by using this cpu. Anyone recently upgraded to Skylake or Kabylake from this?

Yup, still using mine some 7 years down the line. i7-920, 12GB RAM, started with a GTX 260, upgraded along the way to a 460, and then to the 970 I'm still using now. It still runs great, the SSD I'm using for the system drive helps that a lot, but it's definitely starting to show its age. I'm going to be building a i7-7700k rig within the next week or two that'll be its replacement.

I haven't had much trouble running newer games, but my CPU is at 83c+ when it's under intense load. I can't help but think it's only a matter of time before it burns out

That's in the area of my i7-920 when I'm running heavy games, like The Division or Watch Dogs 2. It's been sitting at those temps on high load for years, so I wouldn't worry too much.
 

Zojirushi

Member
So if I switched to a new CPU I'd end up with a spare motherboard+CPU+RAM.

What do guys usually do with old parts like this, sell em individually or as a combo?
 

Fracas

#fuckonami
What's your budget and what size you looking for?

A lot of coolers seem to be in the $100 range, so anything below that would be great. As for size, I'm not really sure. This'd be my first air cooler. It'd need to fit a micro-atx case (specifically the air 240 or silverstone PS08B) for sure.
 

Weevilone

Member
So if I switched to a new CPU I'd end up with a spare motherboard+CPU+RAM.

What do guys usually do with old parts like this, sell em individually or as a combo?

Donate them to helpful forum members is the only way to go!

Noctua is the best. I have a DH-14 that I've used for years, but after a few installations one of the screws that mounts the heatsink to the CPU bracket is getting strange. It's almost like it's cross threading. I emailed them and they sent me a new free mounting kit! I would have been happy to pay for it, but great service.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
Meh, I kept going back and forth but in the end I decided that my cpu should be able to run everything and not to use any avx offsets. I passed 14.5 hours of prime95 26.6 (non-avx) @ 4.8ghz but p95 28.10 crashed within 17 minutes. After trying a few different things I ended up lowering my overclock to 4.7ghz. I'm now currently 40 minutes into prime so we'll see. I really hope this passes as my 2600k was at 4.6ghz and I wanted to raise my clockspeed at least 100 mhz by upgrading to something newer years later.
*fingers crossed*
 

Weevilone

Member
Meh, I kept going back and forth but in the end I decided that my cpu should be able to run everything and not to use any avx offsets. I passed 14.5 hours of prime95 26.6 (non-avx) @ 4.8ghz but p95 28.10 crashed within 17 minutes. After trying a few different things I ended up lowering my overclock to 4.7ghz. I'm now currently 35 minutes into prime so we'll see. I really hope this passes as my 2600k was at 4.6ghz and I wanted to raise my clockspeed at least 100 mhz by upgrading to something newer years later.
*fingers crossed*

I still think the AVX offset is the way to go. Why sacrifice clock speed across the board when it's only the AVX instructions associated heat and power consumption that's causing you problems? Might as well let the games enjoy some extra MHz. You might even be ok at 5GHz aside from AVX.

I'm on the fence with delidding. At the end of the day 200MHz doesn't really mean much, so it's just a matter of overclocking for the sake of overclocking.

On another note, I've not had buyer's remorse with any single item that I can think of in years... but this 1TB 960 Pro just really doesn't translate to the real world well for my use case. Pondering whether to keep it. I was already going in kinda deep getting 32GB RAM which will be nice for VMs, but this.. I dunno. It's badass no doubt, but in daily usage it just differentiate itself that much even from SATA.
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
I still think the AVX offset is the way to go. Why sacrifice clock speed across the board when it's only the AVX instructions associated heat and power consumption that's causing you problems? Might as well let the games enjoy some extra MHz. You might even be ok at 5GHz aside from AVX.

I'm on the fence with delidding. At the end of the day 200MHz doesn't really mean much, so it's just a matter of overclocking for the sake of overclocking.

On another note, I've not had buyer's remorse with any single item that I can think of in years... but this 1TB 960 Pro just really doesn't translate to the real world well for my use case. Pondering whether to keep it. I was already going in kinda deep getting 32GB RAM which will be nice for VMs, but this.. I dunno. It's badass no doubt, but in daily usage it just differentiate itself that much even from SATA.

I also have a 1TB 960 Pro, our systems seem to be very similar (except I have 16gb 3200mhz CL14 ram).
For me, I think it's something that I'll use not only on this build but most likely on the next build too. Games are getting larger and next-gen when newer consoles come out it may pay off to have the huge drive (current consoles already come with 1TB hdds). Personally though I would have been more than fine with 512gb, but the 1TB drive was available sooner and I decided to splurge. No regrets here :)
 

Bloodember

Member
A lot of coolers seem to be in the $100 range, so anything below that would be great. As for size, I'm not really sure. This'd be my first air cooler. It'd need to fit a micro-atx case (specifically the air 240 or silverstone PS08B) for sure.
Since you said liquid cooler first I'm going to assume that is what you want. A good budget one is the Cosair H55, H50 or H60.
 
Can someone help me understand motherboards? I did some reading and think that I'm looking for a B250 for my situation, but I'm not sure.

My plan is to build a budget rig for now and eventually upgrade the GPU, CPU, and ram in a few years.

Here's my build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.79 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Patriot Viper 4 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($62.21 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 4GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($189.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Antec Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 600W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Best Buy)

The only thing I'm not sure on is the motherboard. Any suggestions?

(Note that I'm reusing an old case and SSD)
 
I replaced my motherboard and reinstalled windows and no matter what I try windows 10 will not activate. MS support said my windows key is good and referred me to tech support and tech support couldn't figure out. It is very annoying.
 
Can someone help me understand motherboards? I did some reading and think that I'm looking for a B250 for my situation, but I'm not sure.

My plan is to build a budget rig for now and eventually upgrade the GPU, CPU, and ram in a few years.

Here's my build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($64.79 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Patriot Viper 4 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory ($62.21 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 480 4GB ARMOR OC Video Card ($189.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Antec Three Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA 600W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply ($34.99 @ Best Buy)

The only thing I'm not sure on is the motherboard. Any suggestions?

(Note that I'm reusing an old case and SSD)

Going absolutely budget on the motherboard would mean the Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H. You won't ever be able to overclock on it though, so if you wanted to say, pick up an i7-7700k while their performance would still be a boost for you, you'd be stuck at stock speeds. For that, you'd need a Z270 board, of which the cheapest is still like 75% more expensive than that B250. So the question is do you want the absolute lowest cost, or the lowest while retaining more room to upgrade in future?
 
Going absolutely budget on the motherboard would mean the Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H. You won't ever be able to overclock on it though, so if you wanted to say, pick up an i7-7700k while their performance would still be a boost for you, you'd be stuck at stock speeds. For that, you'd need a Z270 board, of which the cheapest is still like 75% more expensive than that B250. So the question is do you want the absolute lowest cost, or the lowest while retaining more room to upgrade in future?

I'm not totally sure. My current budget build lasted 7 years and the only upgrade was a new GPU (5670 to 7850). The only reason I'm upgrading now is because I can't play current gen games (ME: Andromeda being the key reason to upgrade).

I'd like to use this build for 3-4 years before upgrading. I'm OK with 1080p, 60 fps, and medium settings, and I have a cheap freesync monitor to go with it.

Do you think it would be worthwhile to splurge on a nice mobo given the above?
 

Celcius

°Temp. member
What's the current best 120mm fan for case airflow at reasonably low volume? (~900-1000 rpm) It has to be black with no LEDs.
Noctua Industrials? Corsair Magnetic Levitations?
Also, what would be a good fan controller for 4-5? or otherwise would you just buy some fan extension cables and run them all off of the motherboard?
 
I'm not totally sure. My current budget build lasted 7 years and the only upgrade was a new GPU (5670 to 7850). The only reason I'm upgrading now is because I can't play current gen games (ME: Andromeda being the key reason to upgrade).

I'd like to use this build for 3-4 years before upgrading. I'm OK with 1080p, 60 fps, and medium settings, and I have a cheap freesync monitor to go with it.

Do you think it would be worthwhile to splurge on a nice mobo given the above?

If medium settings are fine, then stock CPU speeds should work, as long as they're paired with a sufficient GPU. In this case, the pairing should perform variably well in current high-ultra settings, around the 40-60fps range, some games obviously being easier than others. I'd personally get the Z270 because of the possibility of picking up a more powerful and overclockable CPU down the line without having to change motherboard, once you grow tired of the bottleneck.
 
I have a Swiftech 220X and my temps have been a little high lately. Looking at the cooler noticed white flakes building up in the reservoir. What is the procedure for cleaning out the loop?

On a side note, is there an air cooler that performs as well? I was looking at the Noctua NH-D15 but damn that thing is enormous.
 

Weevilone

Member
I replaced my motherboard and reinstalled windows and no matter what I try windows 10 will not activate. MS support said my windows key is good and referred me to tech support and tech support couldn't figure out. It is very annoying.

I have a boxed copy of Office 2011 that I got from Best Buy. It worked for years but will no longer activate. MS simply claims my product SKU doesn't exist and won't help me. Good luck getting yours resolved.
 
I'm not totally sure. My current budget build lasted 7 years and the only upgrade was a new GPU (5670 to 7850). The only reason I'm upgrading now is because I can't play current gen games (ME: Andromeda being the key reason to upgrade).

I'd like to use this build for 3-4 years before upgrading. I'm OK with 1080p, 60 fps, and medium settings, and I have a cheap freesync monitor to go with it.

Do you think it would be worthwhile to splurge on a nice mobo given the above?
If you're planning for the build to last a few years, you might want to wait for Ryzen, especially if you want Mass Effect: Andromeda. If the recent pricing info is accurate, you might be able get a decent 4c/4t CPU or better for $100, which give you better performance, due to the Frostbite engine liking more cores and threads. You can get the RAM now (in fact, I advise it), but you can save about $50 on a case by going with this instead (as long as you don't hate white):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811853004
 
If medium settings are fine, then stock CPU speeds should work, as long as they're paired with a sufficient GPU. In this case, the pairing should perform variably well in current high-ultra settings, around the 40-60fps range, some games obviously being easier than others. I'd personally get the Z270 because of the possibility of picking up a more powerful and overclockable CPU down the line without having to change motherboard, once you grow tired of the bottleneck.

Awesome, thanks for the advice!

If you're planning for the build to last a few years, you might want to wait for Ryzen, especially if you want Mass Effect: Andromeda. If the recent pricing info is accurate, you might be able get a decent 4c/4t CPU or better for $100, which give you better performance, due to the Frostbite engine liking more cores and threads. You can get the RAM now (in fact, I advise it), but you can save about $50 on a case by going with this instead (as long as you don't hate white):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811853004

Well, Mass Effect was just an example. I'm also looking forward to finally playing Fallout 4, Doom, etc.

Thanks for the link on that case. None of the parts on that build are specific; I'm just checking the deal sites each day to see what pops up.
 
I have a boxed copy of Office 2011 that I got from Best Buy. It worked for years but will no longer activate. MS simply claims my product SKU doesn't exist and won't help me. Good luck getting yours resolved.

I'm sorry to hear that. I had Windows 8.1 Pro and upgraded to Windows 10 Pro for free but I could always use my 8.1 key to activate Windows 10. If I were to buy now it would be $200....
 
What's the current best 120mm fan for case airflow at reasonably low volume? (~900-1000 rpm) It has to be black with no LEDs.
Noctua Industrials? Corsair Magnetic Levitations?
Also, what would be a good fan controller for 4-5? or otherwise would you just buy some fan extension cables and run them all off of the motherboard?

I'd say this (it's grey). Quietest case fan I've ever used.

https://www.amazon.com/Bearing-Cooling-NF-S12B-redux-1200-PWM/dp/B00KF7PPY4



I double posted :-/ sorry
 

Jimrpg

Member
Awesome, thanks for the advice!



Well, Mass Effect was just an example. I'm also looking forward to finally playing Fallout 4, Doom, etc.

Thanks for the link on that case. None of the parts on that build are specific; I'm just checking the deal sites each day to see what pops up.

You need to check each game that you want to play and see how well they run with the G4560. I know that for the G4400 that Battlefield 1 was bottlenecked by the 2 core CPU to around 30fps. It might perform a little better now with 2 more threads. But there are plenty of other games that will run great on the G4560 like GTA V, Dirt Rally and perform just as well as an i5.

I guess the reality is that with the G4560, you may not be able to run everything well, but if you're a casual gamer, it should be fine.

With the motherboards, id just go with the B250, you can stick in a i5 or i7 CPU later if you want, though you won't be able to overclock the CPU like a Z270 motherboard, it should be more than enough for just about everything.
 
I guess the reality is that with the G4560, you may not be able to run everything well, but if you're a casual gamer, it should be fine.

Brutal.

I checked some benchmarks and they seem to be acceptable.

With the motherboards, id just go with the B250, you can stick in a i5 or i7 CPU later if you want, though you won't be able to overclock the CPU like a Z270 motherboard, it should be more than enough for just about everything.

Are B250 and Z270 the only mobos I should look at? Or is B250 the best bang for the buck type thing?
 

Jimrpg

Member
Brutal.

I checked some benchmarks and they seem to be acceptable.



Are B250 and Z270 the only mobos I should look at? Or is B250 the best bang for the buck type thing?

>.< wrong words sorry :)

I mean if you are ok with some games getting CPU bottlenecked. Its fine. Its the one I recommended to my brother who's on a budget but doesn't want to play everything. It's just a great value CPU.

If you have to play 60fps+ on every game you'll probably need to jump up to the i5. The G4560 should run many games at 60fps, and some games will be between that 30-60fps. Youtube has lots of videos on the performance of the G4560, you can also check out the i3-6100 which has very similar performance because its 2C/4T as well.

The B250 is easily the best bang for buck. Get the Gigabyte GA-B250M-DS3H or something priced similar.The Z270 will let you overclock your CPU and also allow for faster memory speeds up to DDR4-3000Mhz, the B250M only DDR4-2400Mhz. That would be about a 5% difference generally speaking from what ive seen.

There is another option H110 (or H170/Z170) motherboards, but you'll need a skylake CPU (6th gen) to flash the BIOS to get the G4560 to work. Probably not worth the hassle, unless you do a bit more research.
 
Kind of random, but, I have:
i7-7700 (alright, not the K / overclocked. But still, newest i7 at 3.6GHz)
GeForce Titan Black 6GB (again, alright, not overclocked)
16GB RAM (alright, only DDR3 1600MHz, that's probably costing me some)

And I'm getting 3355 on 3DMark Timespy, which it puts as 500 points behind a "Gaming Laptop"
Are they figuring SLIed 10xx cards in a laptop, or is there something that I'm missing?

Considering I'm at 23C (CoolerMaster 612 on the CPU, case fan, and piles of room for air circulation) I know I could push some OCing, but still, feel like I should be doing better at stock than I am.
 

Jimrpg

Member
titan-black-3.png

Seems like the Titan Black is around the same as a GTX 970 or GTX 780 Ti.

Gaming Laptops have improved immensely, you can get a full desktop 1080/1070 into a gaming laptop now, so just the description "gaming laptop" probably covers to broad a range of laptops.
 

liezryou

Member
Thank you!

I actualy ordered the Z170 first, but managed to cancel it since it does seems to have to be updated first, got the z270

Hopefully everything goes well

Haha yeah i almost made the same mistake with my 7600k build. Being a first time intel buyer all the different numbers with the motherboards makes it confusing as shit.
 
Hi guys,

need some newbies help.

I've formatted an HP ProBook 6360b and installed windows 7 professional. I'm trying to install the drivers but I don't know how honestly. i've downloaded the drivers pack from here, but when I install it it just etracts all the drivers in the pack into a folder.

At this moment not even the network card is working, so I have to download everything on a different PC and transfer it using USB.

Appreciate some help in setting it up.

Many thanks in advance
 

Bloodember

Member
Hi guys,

need some newbies help.

I've formatted an HP ProBook 6360b and installed windows 7 professional. I'm trying to install the drivers but I don't know how honestly. i've downloaded the drivers pack from here, but when I install it it just etracts all the drivers in the pack into a folder.

At this moment not even the network card is working, so I have to download everything on a different PC and transfer it using USB.

Appreciate some help in setting it up.

Many thanks in advance

There will be a setup file in each folder.
 

luffeN

Member
Hey all, quick question!

Which Kaby Lake motherboards are suitable for overclocking? Only the Z270 chipsets?

Edit: It seems only the Z270 allow for CPU OC
 
There should be a readme in each folder as well, try that.

The problem is, there are folder like "Networking" and under it there are so many other folders, I'm assuming for different kinds of cards, so I don't know which one to choose.

I'll try to get some screenshots later as the laptop is not in front of me now.
 
The problem is, there are folder like "Networking" and under it there are so many other folders, I'm assuming for different kinds of cards, so I don't know which one to choose.

I'll try to get some screenshots later as the laptop is not in front of me now.

Click

This may be of use to you, it's the specfic set-up and install guide for your laptop, found it on the side of the driver page on the website so should hopefully work for you.
 
Well, what I listed before, with some tweaking - say, replacing the 7700 with an i5-7600k - could put you comfortable around 1000 with some decent performance. For the 1300 'killer' option...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($343.49 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($76.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z270M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($106.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($43.74 @ B&H)
Storage: Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($68.82 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Apevia X-QTIS-BK MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($36.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($77.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1254.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-05 16:48 EST-0500

Could double the SSD storage, or increase the HDD, or get a different case, maybe a better motherboard, doesn't matter too much. This is the sort of thing you'd be looking at, spending that much money.


is this a similar videocard than the one you quoted for me?

https://slickdeals.net/f/9748388-zo...free-s-h-and-10-ebay-bucks?v=1&src=SiteSearch

Zotac GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Triple Fan $340 + Free S&H and 10% eBay bucks
 

shanafan

Member
Both of my monitors lack integrated speakers. They do have a line out though.

One of the monitors is hooked up to an HDMI switch for consoles, and the other is for my PC. I have a set of external speakers.

Since the gaming console monitor is hooked up to my PC as well with the DisplayPort cable, I can get audio from my PC through this monitor to my external speakers. However, when I change the input on the gaming console monitor, I lose the audio from my PC since it is now being used for whatever gaming console I have selected.

I have used a splitter in the past for the speakers, but the sound quality is diminished.

Without being home right now, could I use a stereo cable and connect the gaming console monitor from its line out to my PC's line in, and then my PC's line out to the external speakers?

Just trying a way to hook up two audio sources to my external speakers without using a splitter, and having audio from both sources at the same time. BTW, the splitter I used is just a Y cable. I hope my explanation makes sense!
 
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