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[Sarcasm]

I have a sound, I can't explain it. ticking but not harsh ticking. All my fans are running and the temp is not high.

How do I figure out where it is coming from? I put my ear. I think it may be the fan on the heatsink to my CPU.

But it is running just fine. How do I fix this?

 

[zeemumu]

I have a sound, I can't explain it. ticking but not harsh ticking. All my fans are running and the temp is not high.

How do I figure out where it is coming from? I put my ear. I think it may be the fan on the heatsink to my CPU.

But it is running just fine. How do I fix this?

You sure it's not a wire in your case vibrating against some plastic?

 

[Lactose_Intolerant]

I have a sound, I can't explain it. ticking but not harsh ticking. All my fans are running and the temp is not high.

How do I figure out where it is coming from? I put my ear. I think it may be the fan on the heatsink to my CPU.

But it is running just fine. How do I fix this?

Buy some oil in the craft section of walmart, it is for sewing machines.

Pop the little circle cap on the fan, sometimes it is under the label.

Put a drop or 2 of oil in it every 6 months.

 

[Sarcasm]

Buy some oil in the craft section of walmart, it is for sewing machines.

Pop the little circle cap on the fan, sometimes it is under the label.

Put a drop or 2 of oil in it every 6 months.

Don't have walmarts in Taiwan. Can I use the oil that is say used on electric hair razor cutter things?

 

[Phreak47]

Just like in that pic you can use 3-in-1 oil, which is available almost anywhere in the US, not sure about Taiwan... or like it was said, sewing machine oil.

 

[RandomExpletive]

Huh, just finished the night, ~ 3 hours of games, heard this coming from the PC. Sounded louder than my case fans which are all at 90% to keep the 390 cool. I think it was coming from the PSU...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiDuI7BedS4

 

[V1LÆM]

Huh, just finished the night, ~ 3 hours of games, heard this coming from the PC. Sounded louder than my case fans which are all at 90% to keep the 390 cool. I think it was coming from the PSU...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiDuI7BedS4

doesn't sound like coil whine. the sound in the video is more consistent and lower pitched. maybe it's the fan in the PSU? i'm not sure.

edit* nvm i'm thinking of GPU coil whine. seems like PSU coil whine is different lol. how long you had that PSU and what model is it?

 

[ss_lemonade]

Can someone explain how to know if a game you are running supports HDR because this Windows HDR thing is confusing. With the Forza 7 demo, I initially didn't know that one needed to have Windows' own HDR setting enabled for the game to recognize HDR and provide the necessary HDR specific options (like brightness). I was trying another game, Recore, and I couldn't really tell if HDR was working or not (it also didn't have any HDR specific options available). Rise of the Tomb Raider is another Windows Store app I have and again, can't tell if it's actually running in HDR or not. In all cases, I had the option enabled in Windows and my TV's OSD says HDR is being outputted.

Why can't it be like how the PS4 handles HDR for instance (have it be a toggle in game)? Heck, RE 7 on steam has it's own option for toggling HDR.

Also, I still have the problem I posted a few pages ago

http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showpost.php?p=249815937&postcount=10689

 

[RandomExpletive]

doesn't sound like coil whine. the sound in the video is more consistent and lower pitched. maybe it's the fan in the PSU? i'm not sure.

edit* nvm i'm thinking of GPU coil whine. seems like PSU coil whine is different lol. how long you had that PSU and what model is it?

PSU is a Cooler Master Silent Pro M 700W from 2011, but has only seen about 4-5 years of actual consistent use (still pretty old)

I was thinking it may be a fan as well

 

[Zojirushi]

Ok so I think I might as well ask this a little in advance: I'm probably gonna do a full MB+CPU+RAM switch relatively soon (Ivy Bridge to Coffee Lake).

Is there anything I should be aware of during that process? I've never done this before but I was just gonna unplug all the cables from all the drives and stuff and replug everything into the new motherboard. Is that ok or will I need to do anything else before or after, maybe on the software/firmware/OS side of things?

 

[Phreak47]

Ok so I think I might as well ask this a little in advance: I'm probably gonna do a full MB+CPU+RAM switch relatively soon (Ivy Bridge to Coffee Lake).

Is there anything I should be aware of during that process? I've never done this before but I was just gonna unplug all the cables from all the drives and stuff and replug everything into the new motherboard. Is that ok or will I need to do anything else before or after, maybe on the software/firmware/OS side of things?

Well you're going to want to do a full OS reinstall. Consider it just like a new PC build if you're replacing all the core components. Anything less is asking for trouble.

 

[Zojirushi]

Well you're going to want to do a full OS reinstall. Consider it just like a new PC build if you're replacing all the core components. Anything less is asking for trouble.

Oh boy I was hoping I could avoid that, hate this stuff.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Oh boy I was hoping I could avoid that, hate this stuff.

Phreak47 is right.

However, I recently rebuilt my entire PC. Moved my SSD boot drive to a new case with a new motherboard, CPU (went from Intel to AMD), new RAM, new GPU, new PSU, etc. Had to call Microsoft to get my Windows 10 license transferred, but otherwise, no issues whatsoever a few months into using my new PC. I honestly completely forgot about reinstalling Windows, it just never occurred to me.

So, I mean, I absolutely do not recommend you do what I did, but it seems fine to me. Benchmarks for everything seem good too, no random crashes, and no other noticeable problems that I can see.

 

[Zojirushi]

Phreak47 is right.

However, I recently rebuilt my entire PC. Moved my SSD boot drive to a new case with a new motherboard, CPU (went from Intel to AMD), new RAM, new GPU, new PSU, etc. Had to call Microsoft to get my Windows 10 license transferred, but otherwise, no issues whatsoever a few months into using my new PC. I honestly completely forgot about reinstalling Windows, it just never occurred to me.

So, I mean, I absolutely do not recommend you do what I did, but it seems fine to me. Benchmarks for everything seem good too, no random crashes, and no other noticeable problems that I can see.

So if I kill my current setup it's not gonna accept my old windows key on the "new" machine?

Edit: Did some reading and yeah this is probably gonna suck more than I hoped it would...

 

[RumblingRosco]

So if I kill my current setup it's not gonna accept my old windows key on the "new" machine?

Edit: Did some reading and yeah this is probably gonna suck more than I hoped it would...

Apparently, if you link your current system/Windows key to a Microsoft account, it should transfer without any issue. That's what I was told, anyway. However, I had to call to get my activation to work. It was two separate phone calls taking around two hours total speaking to people that seemed to be 1) non-native English speakers, 2) on some delay that made everything either if us said take 3-4 seconds to reach the other person, and 3) speaking into their phone very quietly. Basically your standard stereotypical bad call center experience. The people were very nice and meant well, and I did get it to work in the end.

My Microsoft license was a one-time use license from my University, so to be fair, I don't think it was even supposed to be transferable, whereas a retail key should transfer easily. Strangely, the call center people never once questioned the type of key I had or gave any mention that it was normally transferable, so I could be wrong.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Apparently, if you link your current system/Windows key to a Microsoft account, it should transfer without any issue. That's what I was told, anyway. However, I had to call to get my activation to work. It was two separate phone calls taking around two hours total speaking to people that seemed to be 1) non-native English speakers, 2) on some delay that made everything either if us said take 3-4 seconds to reach the other person, and 3) speaking into their phone very quietly. Basically your standard stereotypical bad call center experience. The people were very nice and meant well, and I did get it to work in the end.

My Microsoft license was a one-time use license from my University, so to be fair, I don't think it was even supposed to be transferable, whereas a retail key should transfer easily. Strangely, the call center people never once questioned the type of key I had or gave any mention that it was normally transferable, so I could be wrong.

Worked fine for me. Had a Windows 7 key retail key from 2012 on my old PC, upgraded it to Win10 then when I built my current PC with all new parts, I installed Win10 from a USB and signed in with my MS account and it worked fine.

 

[Phreak47]

Yup, well shit, I'm just going to spend the 8 bucks on amazon to get it Tuesday. Noctua site says i'd wait up to 2 weeks.... I guess it's better than having to return the cooler but shit, I was all psyched to power this fucker on tonight.

Ah thanks Amazon, it's arriving tomorrow! I am ready for true 4k goodness.

 

[forrest]

Decided to pull the trigger on the EVGA Gtx 1080ti SC2 instead of waiting around to see what comes of Volta. Getting the new Mordor game free via Nvidia promo. Coming from a 970 I'm pretty stoked!

 

[opticalmace]

Decided to pull the trigger on the EVGA Gtx 1080ti SC2 instead of waiting around to see what comes of Volta. Getting the new Mordor game free via Nvidia promo. Coming from a 970 I'm pretty stoked!

Congrats, you're gonna be happy. It was the right move, Volta is a ways out and this is a huge boost from a 970.

 

[enewtabie]

1600x Ryzen is $199 on Newegg.. Great deal. Guess that's the one for me.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Decided to pull the trigger on the EVGA Gtx 1080ti SC2 instead of waiting around to see what comes of Volta. Getting the new Mordor game free via Nvidia promo. Coming from a 970 I'm pretty stoked!

Good buy, man.
If I went with a higher wattage PSU, I'm pretty sure I would've took the extra £100 plunge on a 1080Ti despite only having a R5 1600. Just for the sake of it.

 

[popo]

Phreak47 is right.

However, I recently rebuilt my entire PC. Moved my SSD boot drive to a new case with a new motherboard, CPU (went from Intel to AMD), new RAM, new GPU, new PSU, etc. Had to call Microsoft to get my Windows 10 license transferred, but otherwise, no issues whatsoever a few months into using my new PC. I honestly completely forgot about reinstalling Windows, it just never occurred to me.

So, I mean, I absolutely do not recommend you do what I did, but it seems fine to me. Benchmarks for everything seem good too, no random crashes, and no other noticeable problems that I can see.

windows 10 has a fair number of chipset drivers built in - so if your old chipset was supported and you didn't install extra drivers - and your new one is supported, then it will sort itself out.

I would always recommend a clean install though.

 

[Dylan Sexbang]

So, this is my first time building my own personal PC. How’d I do? I already bought all the parts, and they should be here within the week- I also found a YouTube video using this exact case as a reference for putting it all together. Super excited to actually play PC games!

 

[enewtabie]

So, this is my first time building my own personal PC. How’d I do? I already bought all the parts, and they should be here within the week- I also found a YouTube video using this exact case as a reference for putting it all together. Super excited to actually play PC games!

For $40 you can go 1600x on that CPU. Won't last long.

 

[Phatosaurus]

So, this is my first time building my own personal PC. How'd I do? I already bought all the parts, and they should be here within the week- I also found a YouTube video using this exact case as a reference for putting it all together. Super excited to actually play PC games!

I would've went with 16Gb of RAM, but if all you're gonna do is play games then it should suffice. Overall, good build.

For $40 you can go 1600x on that CPU. Won't last long.

Plus $70. He'd need a cooler for it.

 

[Zojirushi]

So, this is my first time building my own personal PC. How’d I do?

I probably would've recommended saving like 60 bucks by getting a Windows key somewhere off eBay and get a significantly stronger CPU instead but oh well.

 

[Dylan Sexbang]

I would've went with 16Gb of RAM, but if all you're gonna do is play games then it should suffice. Overall, good build.

Plus $70. He'd need a cooler for it.

Yeah- that’s the plan for now, and ram should be an easy upgrade if I ever wanted to do more with it.

I could upgrade to the 1600x and get a cooler, its not out of the budget- but I would need a recommendation- for the cooler that is. Everything was ordered on either amazon or Newegg, so returns are simple. Would you advise it?

 

[Persona7]

Any good cases on sale right now?

 

[Firestorm]

My brother wants a video editing rig for $3000 USD or less. I was going to try putting something together with the i7 8700K but he wants the parts by October 11th. Is that gonna be impossible with the new motherboard and CPU releases rumoured at October 5th?

 

[opticalmace]

My brother wants a video editing rig for $3000 USD or less. I was going to try putting something together with the i7 8700K but he wants the parts by October 11th. Is that gonna be impossible with the new motherboard and CPU releases rumoured at October 5th?

If I were you I would call up a local computer shop and see if they know when they'll get the new parts in. My local Canada Computers was usually quite forthcoming about it. Try calling NCIX?

Otherwise I'm not sure if anyone knows if it's gonna be a soft or hard launch on Oct 5th...

 

[Phatosaurus]

Yeah- that’s the plan for now, and ram should be an easy upgrade if I ever wanted to do more with it.

I could upgrade to the 1600x and get a cooler, its not out of the budget- but I would need a recommendation- for the cooler that is. Everything was ordered on either amazon or Newegg, so returns are simple. Would you advise it?

I would advise opting for the 1600 instead of the 1600x if you want to go that route. They're the same CPUs with different clock speeds. The 1600 can be overclocked to match the 1600x.

You'll get a cooler with the 1600, whereas you don't with the 1600x. It's not the greatest, but it's serviceable.

 

[Kaako]

My brother wants a video editing rig for $3000 USD or less. I was going to try putting something together with the i7 8700K but he wants the parts by October 11th. Is that gonna be impossible with the new motherboard and CPU releases rumoured at October 5th?

Curios regarding i7 8700K performance vs a beast Ryzen TR 1920x-1950x for video editing mainly.

 

[Dylan Sexbang]

I would advise opting for the 1600 instead of the 1600x if you want to go that route. They're the same CPUs with different clock speeds. The 1600 can be overclocked to match the 1600x.

You'll get a cooler with the 1600, whereas you don't with the 1600x. It's not the greatest, but it's serviceable.

Cool, I’ll do a switch around. I guess ignore it future proofs the system a little longer, than it’ll be worth it overall

 

[Phatosaurus]

Cool, I'll do a switch around. I guess ignore it future proofs the system a little longer, than it'll be worth it overall

Long term upgrades would be nothing more than an extra 8Gb of RAM, and cooler better than the stock one. Genuinely that's all you'll need for a good few years in my opinion. Upgrading the cooler would only be necessary if you want to push for a good overclock.

 

[RumblingRosco]

My brother wants a video editing rig for $3000 USD or less. I was going to try putting something together with the i7 8700K but he wants the parts by October 11th. Is that gonna be impossible with the new motherboard and CPU releases rumoured at October 5th?

Video editing on a $3,000 budget? I think you're aiming too low with an 8700k. Presumably, a Threadripper 1950X would be better overall and still fit within the budget.

1950X = $1,000, throw in a $400 video card, $300 motherboard, $300 worth of RAM, a $100 case, a $100 power supply, and you're still looking at $800 to spare for case fans, a Windows license, SSDs/HDDs, etc. Almost assuredly it'll be better performance for video editing than an 8700k.

Could cut down to a 1920X to save a couple hundred and you'd still most likely beat the 8700k handily... but, again, no benchmarks so we don't know for sure. Added bonus: all these parts are available now, so could be ready by October 11th easily.

EDIT: Something like this? A little under budget; so you might want to add in a few case fans, could add more storage, almost bump up to a 1080 Ti, or get a spiffier case.

 

[Dylan Sexbang]

Long term upgrades would be nothing more than an extra 8Gb of RAM, and cooler better than the stock one. Genuinely that's all you'll need for a good few years in my opinion. Upgrading the cooler would only be necessary if you want to push for a good overclock.

Sweet, thanks for the help! I’ll put the 1600 on order, and worry about OC sometime in the future.

 

[Mrbob]

You should be able to go to 3.6 GHz pretty easily on a 1600 with the stock cooler.

 

[Firestorm]

Video editing on a $3,000 budget? I think you're aiming too low with an 8700k. Presumably, a Threadripper 1950X would be better overall and still fit within the budget.

1950X = $1,000, throw in a $400 video card, $300 motherboard, $300 worth of RAM, a $100 case, a $100 power supply, and you're still looking at $800 to spare for case fans, a Windows license, SSDs/HDDs, etc. Almost assuredly it'll be better performance for video editing than an 8700k.

Could cut down to a 1920X to save a couple hundred and you'd still most likely beat the 8700k handily... but, again, no benchmarks so we don't know for sure. Added bonus: all these parts are available now, so could be ready by October 11th easily.

EDIT: Something like this? A little under budget; so you might want to add in a few case fans, could add more storage, almost bump up to a 1080 Ti, or get a spiffier case.

Thanks. I'll start with that and look at bringing some stuff down. He said $3000 but just has no idea what stuff costs. I'd prefer not to give him something super expensive because I find the high end drops so quickly and the price increase usually isn't worth the power increase.

 

[Phatosaurus]

Sweet, thanks for the help! I’ll put the 1600 on order, and worry about OC sometime in the future.

Best way to go about it. Despite being listed at 3.2Ghz, out the box it should clock to around 3.4Ghz on all cores anyway without you touching anything through XFR.
You should hit 144hz on most games pretty easily, give or take some settings here and there. OCing in the future will help with that too as you'll see less dropped frames.

I've got my 1600 running at 3.8Ghz and play Siege at 144fps. From stock to overclocked, my minimum frames went from 100ish to 120 at the absolute lowest (with a 1080). Really, really happy with how well it performs.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Thanks. I'll start with that and look at bringing some stuff down. He said $3000 but just has no idea what stuff costs. I'd prefer not to give him something super expensive because I find the high end drops so quickly and the price increase usually isn't worth the power increase.

It's possible the Threadripper line-up is overkill for him, in which case the 8700k or the Ryzen 1700 would be a better fit - you'll get a much cheaper motherboard with either of those as well. You can definitely cut that 1950X Threadripper down to a 1920X to save a few hundred, and for video editing, I think the difference between a 1080 and a 1070 is negligible, so you can drop the price of that GPU down about $100 as well if you go with a GTX 1070.

 

[Dylan Sexbang]

Best way to go about it. Despite being listed at 3.2Ghz, out the box it should clock to around 3.4Ghz on all cores anyway without you touching anything through XFR.
You should hit 144hz on most games pretty easily, give or take some settings here and there. OCing in the future will help with that too as you'll see less dropped frames.

I've got my 1600 running at 3.8Ghz and play Siege at 144fps. From stock to overclocked, my minimum frames went from 100ish to 120 at the absolute lowest (with a 1080). Really, really happy with how well it performs.

Awesome. Aside from upping to the 1600, I also decided to return the 8gb of ram and shoot for the 16bg of ram as well. Again, I'm totally okay with future proofing. Other than that, its good to know this will last me a good long time! Hoping to have it up and running by this time next week (provided everything ships in a timely manner). And hopefully I can check into OCing the 1600 relatively quickly down the road.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Awesome. Aside from upping to the 1600, I also decided to return the 8gb of ram and shoot for the 16bg of ram as well. Again, I'm totally okay with future proofing. Other than that, its good to know this will last me a good long time! Hoping to have it up and running by this time next week (provided everything ships in a timely manner). And hopefully I can check into OCing the 1600 relatively quickly down the road.

As a reminder, your RAM will likely default to 2133 MHz initially, so you'll eventually want to try and overclock it to 2933 MHz (assuming you stick with 3000 MHz RAM).

 

[Dylan Sexbang]

Thanks for the tip, i’ll Keep that in mind. First dive into PC gaming, and any info helps

 

[Firestorm]

It's possible the Threadripper line-up is overkill for him, in which case the 8700k or the Ryzen 1700 would be a better fit - you'll get a much cheaper motherboard with either of those as well. You can definitely cut that 1950X Threadripper down to a 1920X to save a few hundred, and for video editing, I think the difference between a 1080 and a 1070 is negligible, so you can drop the price of that GPU down about $100 as well if you go with a GTX 1070.

Thoughts on this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f2LM9W

 

[Phatosaurus]

Awesome. Aside from upping to the 1600, I also decided to return the 8gb of ram and shoot for the 16bg of ram as well. Again, I'm totally okay with future proofing. Other than that, its good to know this will last me a good long time! Hoping to have it up and running by this time next week (provided everything ships in a timely manner). And hopefully I can check into OCing the 1600 relatively quickly down the road.

Good choice. It'll be a really solid build. Like Soka said, your RAM, despite being listed as 3000mhz, will come at the stock speed of 2133mhz. It will need to be overclocked in the BIOS, but it only takes a couple clicks and it should be up and running at 2933mhz without issue.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Thoughts on this? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/f2LM9W

Looks good to me. If you're interested or willing to overclock, you can drop that 1800x to a 1700 and get basically the same performance. It'll save you $150 or so, which you can either pocket or put towards faster RAM, a larger SSD, use towards your purchase of Windows, etc.

 

[MagusMaleficus]

So I finally got everything I needed for my new build ordered on Friday and, thanks to Prime shipping, it was all due to be delivered Sunday. Amazon shipped things separately so I ended up with three packages total. Two showed up to my house yesterday while one did not. The driver figured it ended up on the wrong truck. Sucks but not the end of the world...

So I go and start building what I can—the remaining package held the PSU and hard drive—and that goes well enough. An hour or so in to the build I check the tracking for the remaining package, just for shits and giggles, and it’s marked as “No Access” (which is...weird, I don’t live somewhere that access is an issue) and scheduled to be delivered on “the next business day.” Again, not exactly a travesty but still pretty annoying.

Also not even a little bit surprising: My local USPS office is kinda poop. I just hope my package actually makes it onto a truck to my house this time...

 

[Mugy]

Hello, want to give a bump to this thread

I work as a V.A, that means im mostly of my time at the PC. I want to give myself an upgrade, since im using a shitty old laptop who its not comfortable to work

I have a budget around 500$ at maximum, what do you think of this? :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/2JR2LRZY0U/?tag=neogaf0e-20

A friend put it for me. I will use my new PC, in any case, for work and gaming.

 

[kuYuri]

Hello, want to give a bump to this thread

I work as a V.A, that means im mostly of my time at the PC. I want to give myself an upgrade, since im using a shitty old laptop who its not comfortable to work

I have a budget around 500$ at maximum, what do you think of this? :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/2JR2LRZY0U/?tag=neogaf0e-20

A friend put it for me. I will use my new PC, in any case, for work and gaming.

What kind of work are we talking here? And here's the best I could do. If you can find a Pentium G4560 or equivalent, you can get around $500 budget PC. I included an SSD cause it will make such a big difference in performance, but feel free to take it out if you are strictly going for less than $500. This makes a great budget gaming build, not sure about work. Windows OS will also have to be a separate purchase unless you have an activation key already.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($96.45 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - H110M-HDS R3.0 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($49.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Team - Elite Plus 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin - Blackline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2800 Memory
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card ($154.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman - ZM-T1 PLUS MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($28.49 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - BT 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $567.25
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-02 10:04 EDT-0400

Same build, but going with Ryzen 3. The Intel build is still the better value overall though.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor ($110.87 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team - Elite Plus 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($89.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.99 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card ($154.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman - ZM-T1 PLUS MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($28.49 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - BT 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($27.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $592.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-10-02 10:08 EDT-0400

 

[Mugy]

Work like office work, not anything too impossible to do.

By that line i want to use the PC for gaming too.

PD: i will use amazon, i don't have access to any other type of digital stores.

EDIT: You can get out the Case. I have a mid-tower Cooler Master HAF 922.