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New ambilight- like HDMI 2.1 sync-box (and lights) : Lytmi fantasy 3

I turned my 2nd hand Lifx strip light I bought randomly one day into a super cheap Ambilight alternative, and it works amazingly. I was floored honestly, could never go back to normal viewing.

It's actually way more colourful and saturated than in this video I made, and goes over the entire wall. Despite being a dodge version, I think the Lifx lights are more powerful than even the Hue lights from Philips so it's ended up being better in some ways, and you run the software on PC (it captures the screen), so if you don't mind running everything on a windows laptop/PC then it's a good alternative setup. I also used a cheap 4k usb capture card with OBS to capture the output of my AV receiver, bit of a hassle but it worked.



Need to repeat, once you have this you can't go back lol. I even bought a cheap HDMI Led kit I found on amazon to install at my parents, I'm converting everyone :messenger_grinning_sweat:

The absolute best demo I saw of this thing was from this guy, instantly convinced me I need to invest in this kit (so was even happier when I did it on the cheap):

 
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If it wasn't for the absolutely stupid pricing of the Philips miniled TVs (PML series) I'd have gotten one, selling these though at OLED prices (scratch that, they're even more expensive than OLEDs) is just mind-blowingly stupid.

PS : the Philips PUS 8887 I had for 2 weeks back in December was actually nice (VA panel).
I really miss its Ambilight...

Shit I want one of these so bad, but yea those prices.

In the UK RIcher Sounds are selling the 75" for 2k, and the OLED for 3.5k, it's 'not bad' but still a shit load.

 
I turned my 2nd hand Lifx strip light I bought randomly one day into a super cheap Ambilight alternative, and it works amazingly. I was floored honestly, could never go back to normal viewing.

It's actually way more colourful and saturated than in this video I made, and goes over the entire wall. Despite being a dodge version, I think the Lifx lights are more powerful than even the Hue lights from Philips so it's ended up being better in some ways, and you run the software on PC (it captures the screen), so if you don't mind running everything on a windows laptop/PC then it's a good alternative setup. I also used a cheap 4k usb capture card with OBS to capture the output of my AV receiver, bit of a hassle but it worked.



Need to repeat, once you have this you can't go back lol. I even bought a cheap HDMI Led kit I found on amazon to install at my parents, I'm converting everyone :messenger_grinning_sweat:

The absolute best demo I saw of this thing was from this guy, instantly convinced me I need to invest in this kit (so was even happier when I did it on the cheap):



Looks friggin' amazing man !
Sounds like a hassle though, you have to run everything on your PC and then route the
whole thing to your TV ? How ?

Having Ambilight shouldn't be so difficult dammit ! (nor so expensive if you decide to go the Philips way).

For now, I'll stick to my uber-mediocre 60€ Govee camera + LED bars combo (got the bars system, not the strips one).
 
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peronmls

Member
I guess if I get bored. It would be better if games actually implemented light functions like GTAV did with the keyboard.
 
Ambilight is stupid ass hell, and only good if you wanna destroy the calibrated display of your choice.
Philips should put warning stickers on the TV boxes. If you turn Ambilight on our TVs on IT will destroy your calibrated display. Turning ambilight on only at own risk.

yNhxXLh.gif
 
Looks friggin' amazing man !
Sounds like a hassle though, you have to run everything on your PC and then route the
whole thing to your TV ? How ?

Cheers dude. Yea definitely a hassle, I didn't mind since it was in my own 'man-cave' apartment lol and I got it working in a way that actually was quite sweet;

Basically a windows 10 laptop in clamshell mode, running OBS capture software connected to a cheap HDMI usb capture card and the app that connects the lifx lights. The capture card is receiving a signal from my AV receiver, so anything I want to watch on the TV is going through this laptop as well as the TV (Av receiver has 2 hdmi outs).

Some legend person created this app hosted on Github. It 'speaks' to any Lifx bulbs you have and will transmit the screens' colour information over wifi. In the app, I connected the strips behind the TV, and also a bulb in a lamp that sits to the right of me, and you can then configure what part of the screen will work with each bulb. So the strip was set to capture the edges of the screen, and the lamp light was for the bottom of the screen, which was quite nice at adding a little extra when any bright things happened on the bottom of the screen, like a lightning strike.

Sometimes I used the laptop as the actual device to watch stuff on TV (and not bother with the xbox for example), then I didn't need to bother opening OBS but still had the Lifx app running. I used an xbox controller connected using this app, and honestly it was pretty good to navigate windows and then also play games.

Definitely making it sound more complicated than it actually is lol, it's basically like other out of the box systems but hacked together. If you want a setup in a bedroom/office this actually is the best way to do it since it's all running from Windows anyway (and won't need OBS).

Having Ambilight shouldn't be so difficult dammit ! (nor so expensive if you decide to go the Philips way).

For now, I'll stick to my uber-mediocre 60€ Govee camera + LED bars combo (got the bars system, not the strips one).

It's annoyingly expensive and/or difficult for something so cool, but there are more things coming out all the time that are legit competition, like the cheapo no name thing I bought from amazon (HDMI box + lights for a 65" TV) at only cost £50.

Your Govee is best option for compatibility and working with your smart apps, there's no real other solution except Samsungs new app you can buy, but it's a total rip off imo:


Very expensive app plus you still need to buy Philips ecosystem of stuff.
 
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Boys, in case anyone's interested, the Fantasy 3 sync box is 159$ right now - just received an email about it (it takes you to the site where you have to apply a 20% off coupon).

160 buckaroos is...OK and I'd get one in a heartbeat if it wasn't for the no VRR thing.
 
I was JUST about to post about IllumiRoom.
VERY cool tech that sadly never got in our hands. There were plenty of "wow" moments in that presentation, but the neatest thing for me was seeing that skiing(snowboarding?) game and it looked like it was snowing in the room. I STILL want that.

They were also working on a lesser known project called RoomAlive that used projectors in conjunction with Kinect that looked bonkers. Struck me as what AR should actually be like.


It could even be a lot better now with ust projectors so your shadow is not being completely annoying on your walls. Also easier to set up. Now everyone just have to have a perfectly empty, square room and let’s gooooo
 

TheCoolDave

Neo Member
I built one of these type things about 5 years ago. It's a PI using Hyperion software, The kit runs fine at 4K60 with it but, it's a limit of my capture device. My PS5 and Series X cannot use this setup but, Xbox 360, WiiU, Switch, SteamDeck (and all TV/movies items), can all go through this system and is awesome, movies it's great too. MY TV supports HDMI 2.1 with everything you could need today, even ultra-low lag.

Moving to 120hz gets expensive quick. My AVR (120w per channel X 10) does all the newest surround sound features but, ONLY supports 2.0a (Max 4k@60hz) with this AVR it has 2 video outs, one goes to the PI/Capture card, the other goes to the TV. To replace the AVR with specs needed and HDMI 2.1 would be around $1800. The Series X and PS5, run directly to the TV and I use e-Arc to return audio to the AVR. It's all macro'ed out via an older but, pretty bad a$$ touch screen remote. So I get great Audio on all sources but, no Ambilight on the newest consoles.

I'd love to see an option to get this to 120hz but, as you can see, I do have some conflicts here.
 

TheCoolDave

Neo Member
It could even be a lot better now with ust projectors so your shadow is not being completely annoying on your walls. Also easier to set up. Now everyone just have to have a perfectly empty, square room and let’s gooooo
IllumiRoom is at a whole new level, and today, you can buy a USED 1080P projector for under $200 these days, you could build one of these systems, if you could access the software to enable it.

Would be epic....
 

Pagusas

Elden Member
I've been running an HDFurry Diva for years now before it was cool, and based on everything I've seen here its leagues better than every option shown in this thread. Even now I have it hooked up to my HDfurry Vroom, converting 2.1 sources down to allow everything to have the "ambilight" effect, including VRR sources.
 
IllumiRoom is at a whole new level, and today, you can buy a USED 1080P projector for under $200 these days, you could build one of these systems, if you could access the software to enable it.

Would be epic....
Would be epic to see the mess you’ll get if you buy 4 under 200 dollar non ust projectors for this. It won’t be next level for that money, and you still have annoying shadows. Imagine your enemy is exactly where your shadow is projected, it sucks monkey balls.

You need either ust or rear projection otherwise it’s not functional in the slightest and MS knew that. That’s why it never became anything more than an entertaining brain thought.

Now, if they can create the solution the right way, and it doesn’t take too much space, and not more than 10K dollars to set up, I will actually take a look at it. I like the idea of having an all compassing video wall.
 

simpatico

Member
I guess the screen has to be against a wall for this to work? I game in my office and my desk is pointed away from the wall. Any benefit with this configuration?
 

Rac3r

Member
Lack of VRR support kills it imo. Govee still clears, despite the camera.

Also the Govee camera is a pain, but can be hidden well if you get creative. You don’t have to stick it on the TV.
 

TheCoolDave

Neo Member

I keep seeing YT shorts about this Fancyleds company but...do we know if they actually make good products ?

I mean, Alibaba/AliExpress is FULL of HDMI sync boxes but their quality is of unknown quality - or should us say "known " since they're pretty much shit with the LEDs burning out after a couple of months not to mention various handshake issues...

If you told me this was made by Govee I would have jumped in immediately but...

Anyway, I'm still interested in knowing why the friggin Lytmi fantasy 3 pro version isn't compatible with LG Tvs
 
I like ambilight on my PC, it made my playthrough of Sekiro super memorable. That said, nothing sits between my console out and my TV in. It’s just a mess, and that it has been years, I don’t think I’ll trust any switch, box, splitter, and AV receiver ever.

There is just no guarantee that the signal isn’t being fd with anymore. Ears needs to be fully featured for secondary outputs that aren’t a TV, this and sound.
 

ahtlas7

Member
Something is off about these things.. It’s like listening to a choir where a few singer are off key and tempo.
 

spons

Member
...and it's still 4K60 only, FML...

How the heck hasn't ANY company come out with a simple solution and full support with an ambilight alternative I'll never understand.
I would guess Philips patented anything useful related to Ambilight tech up the ass. Good luck creating an alternative in that case.
 

TheCoolDave

Neo Member
I built one of these type things about 5 years ago. It's a PI using Hyperion software, The kit runs fine at 4K60 with it but, it's a limit of my capture device. My PS5 and Series X cannot use this setup but, Xbox 360, WiiU, Switch, SteamDeck (and all TV/movies items), can all go through this system and is awesome, movies it's great too. MY TV supports HDMI 2.1 with everything you could need today, even ultra-low lag.

Moving to 120hz gets expensive quick. My AVR (120w per channel X 10) does all the newest surround sound features but, ONLY supports 2.0a (Max 4k@60hz) with this AVR it has 2 video outs, one goes to the PI/Capture card, the other goes to the TV. To replace the AVR with specs needed and HDMI 2.1 would be around $1800. The Series X and PS5, run directly to the TV and I use e-Arc to return audio to the AVR. It's all macro'ed out via an older but, pretty bad a$$ touch screen remote. So I get great Audio on all sources but, no Ambilight on the newest consoles.

I'd love to see an option to get this to 120hz but, as you can see, I do have some conflicts here.

So, as you can see been battling with the VRR/120hz gaming thing for a long time now. The way it works, not sure any 3rd party HDMI based option before the TV could actually work right with VRR and full spec HDMI 2.1

With my HDMI setup and NO new consoles, also the headache to run 2 long HDMI cables from my side setup consoles, ONE for HDMI 2.1 and 1 for other consoles so I can use the Ambi-light setup on the older consoles, I need to find a solution that works across the board.

I did some homework, camera-based Ambi-light setups would work across the board, VRR, HDMI 2.1 120hz, yep, it should all work fine. Watched endless videos on a camera-based system. Word has said the new models any lag is ultra-low but, I have been coming from a HDMI based setup so time will tell home good or bad it actually is.

I decided to try Govee TV Backlight 3 Lite with Fish-Eye Correction, this should do what I need. I have not set it up yet (remodeling the room it's in right now).

Trashing my PI setup for now.... if I decide to go back, I will buy better LEDs for the project.

If anyone really is interested how well it works once, I set it up (maybe about 2-3 weeks once I am done with the room), I will post back....
 
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GHG

Gold Member
...and it's still 4K60 only, FML...

How the heck hasn't ANY company come out with a simple solution and full support with an ambilight alternative I'll never understand.

The only way to do it at 4k/120hz is to get your own lights (or LED strips), stick them behind the TV and then use the app on PC.

(but obviously thats only useful if you're gaming via that same PC).
 
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soulbait

Member
I have had the Phillips Hue Sync Box for several years now, and it is awesome. How well it works though depends on the what you are watching and what settings you have it on:

  • gaming - works great! It really adds a level of immersion to the game. I usually set the lights to max brightness and intensity to "Extreme". All games work well with this IMO. Explosions seem to go across your wall. Red flash notifications from from taking damage is more noticeable. Even subtle things like shadows from passing trees in racing games are cool due to the lights dimming for the shadows, making as if the lighting in the gaming world is impacting your world.
  • concerts - during COVID some of my favorite bands were doing live concert streams, and the sync lights were great with them. Makes it feel like the light show from the concert is happening in your room. I would try to have the brightness match the level of my TV and set intensity to "Extreme".
  • WWE events - similar to concerts, the intros and lighting of the matches work well with the sync lights. Makes you feel like you are there. During the matches however, it is not as immersive. I would set the lights to match the brightness of the TV and set the intensity to "High.
  • SciFi/Animation/sFX movies - if a movie is full of special effects or is an animated film, it works really good as well. StarWars is great with the light of the lightsabers making the room glow and the red lasers form the spaceship battles make the room flash. Animated movies can glow as well. Lion King's intro is a good demo for people. Spider-Man into the Spider-Verse is also great. For these, I usually have the lights set to be either just below the brightness or matching the TV and set the intensity to "High"
  • Normal TV watching/sports - for everyday TV watching, dramas, or watching live sports it can become distracting if the settings are not set up correctly. Especially if there are a lot of camera cuts, causing the lights to change real quick without any "action" for the lights to react to. Example, just cuts going back and forth between people talking. However, you can still make the sync lights work well in these situations, making them good bias lighting that matches the colors on the screen. For these, I make the lights brightness to be a little bit lower than the TV's and also the setting to be on "Moderate" or "Subtle".
For those who find it distracting, the key is to make the brightness match the TV's brightness or for it be slightly lower than the TV's. when you do this, the light is more of an extension of the light coming off of the TV. If the brightness is brighter than the TV, then everytime the light changes your eyes want to look at it. I do not have this issue when playing video games, so I leave it brighter when playing. This makes me notice the lights more for playing games. With watching movies and TV, I want the extra light to disappear more, so I set it to be at the brightness of the TV or under it. When set this way, I have found most people who thinks it would be distracting does not find it to be so and actually likes it.

As for HDMI 2.1, it is a bummer that it is not compatible. However, I have my setup in a way where I can optionally use it with games. This way sometimes I use the SyncBox with games and other times I am using HDMI 2.1 features with games. Not all games need VRR or do 120hz, so having the optional ways to hook it helps. Here is how I have it setup:
  1. PS5, XSX, switch, 4k UHD Player, and 4K Chromecast are hooked up to my Onkyo HDMI 2.1 AV Receiver
  2. HDMI Out A on the receiver is hooked up to my TV's eARC input that also supports HDMI 2.1
  3. HDMI Out B on the receiver is hooked up to the Sync Box, and the Sync Box is hooked up another HDMI port on the TV
  4. When wanting to use HDMI 2.1 features, I send the video through HDMI out A
  5. When wanting to use the sync box, I send video through HDMI out B
 
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