Plasma, LCD, OLED, LED, best tv for next gen

I'm still in my "paranoid about new TV" phase with the E6, though the good news is that I should be getting a free calibration when the tech visits on Friday (for unknown reasons he did not show up yesterday, so I made a fuss with LG and managed to get them to include the free calibration in their notes)..

You're not getting a free calibration, as in ISF calibration. You're getting some tech to monkey with your settings for free.
 
Loving the 3D on my E6. However, the bottom right corner of the screen has a double image if my head isn't in the exact perfect position.

I've played around with the 3D settings briefly to no avail. Any suggestions?
 
Returning my KS8000. The viewing angles really sucked last night during the Kovalev vs Ward fight. Best viewing angle was limited to those in front. Good thing i bought it from Amazon.
 
You're not getting a free calibration, as in ISF calibration. You're getting some tech to monkey with your settings for free.

I'll double-check since I need to call tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure they knew which kind of calibration I was referring to. The tech should theoretically have the tools for it, I think.

Returning my KS8000. The viewing angles really sucked last night during the Kovalev vs Ward fight. Best viewing angle was limited to those in front. Good thing i bought it from Amazon.

I keep trying to talk myself out of getting the KS8000 from Best Buy and then returning it if I finally saw the difference between it and the E6. I keep wondering if I'm too used to the LED's huge brightness that I won't be able to adjust to the OLED, which (according to everyone) is supposed to be a wall-balanced picture that shows everything like it should.

Still could use some recommendations for the following settings:

What does H and V sharpness do, and where should I keep it?

What about color gamma? 1.9 seems to be the best option, since 2.4 and so on seem to darken certain parts of the screen.

Same question for dynamic contrast. I think either off or low would be best.

Just a lot of settings I have to constantly play around with.
 
Just to make sure, should 1080p content on the E6 be equal or better to how 1080p content is displayed on my previous TV?
.

If you expect 1080p content on the E6 to look like it would on a native 1080p screen, then no.

With 4K being 4 times the resolution of 1080p you'd think that you'll, in theory, get perfect scaling but it's not the case.

I keep trying to talk myself out of getting the KS8000 from Best Buy and then returning it if I finally saw the difference between it and the E6. I keep wondering if I'm too used to the LED's huge brightness that I won't be able to adjust to the OLED, which (according to everyone) is supposed to be a wall-balanced picture that shows everything like it should.

Still could use some recommendations for the following settings:

What does H and V sharpness do, and where should I keep it?

What about color gamma? 1.9 seems to be the best option, since 2.4 and so on seem to darken certain parts of the screen.

Same question for dynamic contrast. I think either off or low would be best.

Just a lot of settings I have to constantly play around with.

Looking at your recent posts and the way you set your E6 (100 contrast/oled light), it's pretty clear you're looking for a peak brightness the OLED cannot offer.
 
If you don't mind me asking, how many TVs have you returned in your life? I'm curious.

I returned a Westinghouse LCD that was on sale, which was the TV that had crappy 480p.

I exchanged a Samsung LCD three times because I was ignorant on what clouding was, thinking it was a defect on the screen whenever it went black.

That's been it.

If you expect 1080p content on the E6 to look like it would on a native 1080p screen, then no.

With 4K being 4 times the resolution of 1080p you'd think that you'll, in theory, get perfect scaling but it's not the case.



Looking at your recent posts and the way you set your E6 (100 contrast/oled light), it's pretty clear you're looking for a peak brightness the OLED cannot offer.

Like I said, I'm obsessively playing around with it until I reach a happy medium. The brightness and contrast have been lowered considerably, though OLED is still at 100 as I see no benefit to lowering that value.

But your claim that 1080p content will never look as good as it did on a 1080p-focused TV is concerning. Does this also hold true for the KS8000?
 
So a couple more E6 questions:

1. With the option to apply the settings to "all inputs", does it save the setting for that specific picture mode (say ISF Bright Room) which will carry over to all other HDMI ports? Or does it apply the settings to every picture mode, including the ones you don't use?

2. In World of Final Fantasy, as a current example, I find the text in the menu boxes to be a bit soft (same thing with the menu font on the PS4 home screen). To increase this, would I raise the H sharpness or V sharpness? Would both need to be raised evenly or should one always be higher/lower than the other?

3. Still trying to find the best combination between dynamic contrast, gamma and any of the other settings that potentially darken/brighten up the screen. Don't want things darkened to the point that I lose detail, but would love whatever makes things pop the most.
 
I'll double-check since I need to call tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure they knew which kind of calibration I was referring to. The tech should theoretically have the tools for it, I think.

It doesn't matter to be honest. What you are clearly seeking isn't a properly calibrated state anyways. You are gunning for something far beyond that, closer to store demo mode. It isn't a slam, we all have our preferences and you are the one watching it. Just don't be surprised if the tech knows what he's doing regarding calibration (highly unlikely) and looks at you with a puzzled stare.

And regarding 1080p, it can certainly look good to my eyes but it's never going to be optimal when it has to be scaled up. You can't invent pixels that are not in the source and have it look perfect. It doesn't matter what display you choose.
 
The 55" C6 just dropped to $1799 at Best Buy this morning. Tempting. The 65" is $2799. I'm trying to decide if 10" is worth $1000. I'm thinking no. My current set is only 50" so as long as the new one is the same or larger I think it'll be fine, and I just don't want to spend more than 2 grand on a TV.

I got the 55" because I didn't want to spend too much in case I upgrade to 2017 model. For my viewing distance, 65" would have been nice, but not enough to spend another grand.

Loving the 3D on my E6. However, the bottom right corner of the screen has a double image if my head isn't in the exact perfect position.

I've played around with the 3D settings briefly to no avail. Any suggestions?

I don't think that can be fixed in settings. Sounds like faulty glasses.

can't wait for this UHD Bluray sale at BB this week.

I need to pick up a few more 4k movies to test out my E6.

Got a link to what titles will be on sale?

I'm picking up a X1 S and wanted to get some UHD blu rays, but almost $40 a pop is absurd.
 
Is buydig a reputable store to buy from? I was looking at best buy, noticed the 55in lg c6 on sale for $1800 and realized after looking online that I can get the same TV at the same price through buydig with a free 4k samsung bluray player. Free shipping and probably no sales tax too. I just have never purchased a TV online and have it shipped, especially from a site I've never used before.
 
Is buydig a reputable store to buy from? I was looking at best buy, noticed the 55in lg c6 on sale for $1800 and realized after looking online that I can get the same TV at the same price through buydig with a free 4k samsung bluray player. Free shipping and probably no sales tax too. I just have never purchased a TV online and have it shipped, especially from a site I've never used before.
They're legit. I bought my Sony XBR49X800D through their eBay store.
 
In Norway.

The B6 will be ~$1730 on BF. It doesn't look like the KS8000 will go on sale, though, so in that case it will stay at ~$1560.

Yea pretty much no doubt in your case go with the B6. That BF price is either really impressive or the KS8000 is very overpriced. Is this the 55"?

Returning my KS8000. The viewing angles really sucked last night during the Kovalev vs Ward fight. Best viewing angle was limited to those in front. Good thing i bought it from Amazon.

I get this, if you're house is essentially a sports bar and large crowd viewing is your primary usage than go with an OLED or an IPS TV. The IPS I obviously would recommend but yea, if you can swing for the OLED do it.
 
So a couple more E6 questions:

1. With the option to apply the settings to "all inputs", does it save the setting for that specific picture mode (say ISF Bright Room) which will carry over to all other HDMI ports? Or does it apply the settings to every picture mode, including the ones you don't use?

2. In World of Final Fantasy, as a current example, I find the text in the menu boxes to be a bit soft (same thing with the menu font on the PS4 home screen). To increase this, would I raise the H sharpness or V sharpness? Would both need to be raised evenly or should one always be higher/lower than the other?

3. Still trying to find the best combination between dynamic contrast, gamma and any of the other settings that potentially darken/brighten up the screen. Don't want things darkened to the point that I lose detail, but would love whatever makes things pop the most.
1. Carries over all settings on that picture mode to the same picture mode on all inputs. It doesn't copy them to another picture setting.

2. I have h and V at 10. Seems to be fine to me.

3. I posted my settings here, really happy with them:
Here are my settings. These are based on a combination of research and my personal preferences, they are by no means definitive the best ever, just my opinion. My TV room has floor to ceiling windows with white blinds on three sides (back, front, right), so it is a very bright room.

The tools I used were the Pixar Maximizer and the Xbox One Picture Calibration:

maxresdefault.jpg


xboxone-displaysettings-04.jpg



My LG E6 Settings
ISF Expert (Bright Room)
Aspect Ratio - Original
Just Scan - On

OLED Light - 100
(Based this on rtings.com recommendation, http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/e6/settings)

Contrast - 94
(Based this on Pixar Blu Ray Maximizer as well as Xbox One S calibration tool)

Brightness - 54
(Based this Maximizer, Xbox One S and Kill Bill 2 Blu Ray where she is about to be buried underground. The black sky will blend in with the borders with no over whitening. You could lower this within 5-10 points based on room settings, I have had it as low as 47)

H/V Sharpness - 10
(Based on AVForums YouTube vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFf4vEiHHRQ)

Color - 57
Personal preference. Anything between 50 and 60 should be fine.

Tint - 0
Personal preference, don't see any need to change.

Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Super Resolution - Off
Color Gamut - Normal
Edge Enhancer - Off
Color Filter - Off
Gamma - 2.2 (use what works best for you, I prefer a brighter pic)

White Balance
Color Temp - Cool (personal preference)
Method - 2 points
Red - 1
Green - 0
Blue - 5
(I won't bother posting 20 point for the sake of time, you gotta do some research here and find what works for you)

(RGB based on AVForums YouTube vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFf4vEiHHRQ)

Color Management
(No changes per on AVForums YouTube vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFf4vEiHHRQ)

Picture Options
Noise Reduction - Auto (this is my personal preference)
MPEG Noise Reduction - Off
Black Level - Low
Real Cinema - On
Motion Eye Care - Off
Tru Motion - User (De-Judder - 0, De-Blur - 10)
 
So i was going to do an overview and comparison video between my KS8000 and the KU6290 to show at leaat for SDR content the quality of the TV as I had ordered one prior to the EPP deals. Unfortunately while the box and TV appeared to be in fantastic shape, when I opened and turned it on I was greeted with this.

 
Loving the 3D on my E6. However, the bottom right corner of the screen has a double image if my head isn't in the exact perfect position.

I've played around with the 3D settings briefly to no avail. Any suggestions?
The 3D filter is faulty on your TV, you'll need to exchange. Several reports of this issue on last year's models too but an exchange will solve it.
 
Yea pretty much no doubt in your case go with the B6. That BF price is either really impressive or the KS8000 is very overpriced. Is this the 55"
Basically everything is pretty expensive here in Norway in general. The KS8000 has been $1560 for a good while now.

This is 55" for both, yeah.

Just saw that the KS8000 will get a small discount on Black Friday. So the KS8000 will now be $1390 and the B6 will be $1730 on BF.
 
Help me please.

Greek store has LG 49LH541V for 399€. I can't find anywhere what's the input lag of this model.

This is how the tv looks (I think it could come with different names in other countries).
c10310251-1.jpg
 
Here are my settings. These are based on a combination of research and my personal preferences, they are by no means definitive the best ever, just my opinion. My TV room has floor to ceiling windows with white blinds on three sides (back, front, right), so it is a very bright room.

The tools I used were the Pixar Maximizer and the Xbox One Picture Calibration:

maxresdefault.jpg


xboxone-displaysettings-04.jpg



My LG E6 Settings
ISF Expert (Bright Room)
Aspect Ratio - Original
Just Scan - On

OLED Light - 100
(Based this on rtings.com recommendation, http://ca.rtings.com/tv/reviews/lg/e6/settings)

Contrast - 94
(Based this on Pixar Blu Ray Maximizer as well as Xbox One S calibration tool)

Brightness - 54
(Based this Maximizer, Xbox One S and Kill Bill 2 Blu Ray where she is about to be buried underground. The black sky will blend in with the borders with no over whitening. You could lower this within 5-10 points based on room settings, I have had it as low as 47)

H/V Sharpness - 10
(Based on AVForums YouTube vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFf4vEiHHRQ)

Color - 57
Personal preference. Anything between 50 and 60 should be fine.

Tint - 0
Personal preference, don't see any need to change.

Expert Controls
Dynamic Contrast - Off
Super Resolution - Off
Color Gamut - Normal
Edge Enhancer - Off
Color Filter - Off
Gamma - 2.2 (use what works best for you, I prefer a brighter pic)

White Balance
Color Temp - Cool (personal preference)
Method - 2 points
Red - 1
Green - 0
Blue - 5
(I won't bother posting 20 point for the sake of time, you gotta do some research here and find what works for you)

(RGB based on AVForums YouTube vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFf4vEiHHRQ)

Color Management
(No changes per on AVForums YouTube vid - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFf4vEiHHRQ)

Picture Options
Noise Reduction - Auto (this is my personal preference)
MPEG Noise Reduction - Off
Black Level - Low
Real Cinema - On
Motion Eye Care - Off
Tru Motion - User (De-Judder - 0, De-Blur - 10)

Well that is definitely gonna produce a cool saturated picture. Definitely not calibrated to standards but I say make the tv look how you like it. You paid for it!
 
The 3D filter is faulty on your TV, you'll need to exchange. Several reports of this issue on last year's models too but an exchange will solve it.

Bummer! Thanks for the help.

I imagine an exchange would go through LG directly. Are people's experiences with LG customer support positive?
 
1. Carries over all settings on that picture mode to the same picture mode on all inputs. It doesn't copy them to another picture setting.

2. I have h and V at 10. Seems to be fine to me.

3. I posted my settings here, really happy with them:

Appreciated. I'm just willing to try different settings and combinations, and decide from there what I like and what I don't.

Ditto if I can get the TV professionally calibrated. When a tech did that with my LCD, all I had to do was adjust a couple of settings from that and it was perfect for me. I'm hoping to produce something similar with the OLED.

I guess I just get easily flustered when I think I've got everything narrowed down, but I then try a different piece of media and end up having to adjust again. Yesterday I played more 4K and 1080p content and thought "okay, both are looking great". Then I fired up Crunchyroll and was pretty uninmpressed with how the colors looked. Then again, that was a really lackluster episode of One Piece this week, so I shouldn't use that as a base.

Also, is 4K available on Amazon Prime Video? I recall reading it was only available in the UK (I'm in US).
 
Alright, so my dad has never really had a big screen tv. The tv he has now is an older 42" Panasonic plasma that I gave him when I upgraded ~8 years ago. He's been happy with it, but he always talks about how he would like to have a bigger tv. My dad has always been there for us whenever we needed him, so I wanted to finally do something for him.

I wanted to get him something that was pretty decent, but he doesn't want/need a top of the line set. As such, I finally ended up ordering him a Sony xbr-65x750d that was open box on Amazon. Price after tax = $900

Fast forward to yesterday, when Target was running the LG 65UH615A for $799 - 10% - 5% = $750 after tax, which I ended up buying, because the price was only good for one day.

So now, the question is: Which one should I keep? Aesthetically, the LG is nicer, as it has a nicer trim and is MUCH thinner than the Sony. Picture wise, I'm thinking the Sony is probably a bit better, but probably not enough that my dad would notice. He's not going to be gaming on it, so input lag isn't a factor here. I haven't gotten the Sony yet, but my gut feeling is that the Smart Apps from WebOS 3.0 would be easier for him to figure out. It'll be used in a living room, so brighter is probably better.

Definitely leaning towards keeping the LG right now, but is there anything else I'm missing? Any of you guys have any opinions?
 
Ok, so I'm finding it hard to wait for OLED to get to the price I'd like. I think the most I wanna go is $900.00 and Amazon has the KS8000 49" for $897.00. Best Buy has the Vizio P50 for $800. Are these sets still pretty close to each other in picture quality? I'm on the fence D:
 
Ok, so I'm finding it hard to wait for OLED to get to the price I'd like. I think the most I wanna go is $900.00 and Amazon has the KS8000 49" for $897.00. Best Buy has the Vizio P50 for $800. Are these sets still pretty close to each other in picture quality? I'm on the fence D:

For strictly movies, the P50 is better, but only if you can control the lighting in the room. The KS8000 would be better for a bright living room/den for everyday television watching, etc. I'm not sure about input lag, but obviously everyone here loves the KS8000.
 
For strictly movies, the P50 is better, but only if you can control the lighting in the room. The KS8000 would be better for a bright living room/den for everyday television watching, etc. I'm not sure about input lag, but obviously everyone here loves the KS8000.

My room situation is a basement area where pretty much no outside light gets in the room, and the lighting I do have is the uh.. tube fluorescent lights. I'd be watching netflix and blu rays on it + my PS4 Pro for gaming, if any of this information makes a difference ^^
 
My room situation is a basement area where pretty much no outside light gets in the room, and the lighting I do have is the uh.. tube fluorescent lights. I'd be watching netflix and blu rays on it + my PS4 Pro for gaming, if any of this information makes a difference ^^

In that case then, I think I would really consider the P50 over the KS8000. The HDR performance isn't going to be quite as good, since it isn't as bright, but I'm a really big fan of deeper black levels. Other than HDR performance, I think it's hands down a better set for watching movies.

The only thing with the P50 is that apparently it's the only set in the P-Series that has a 60hz screen. Not sure how much that is going to impact motion performance.
 
Going from a 60' Samsung plasma to a KS8000 soon. Should I expect any downgrades? The black levels are my main concern, the Plasma did such an excellent job with those and I distinctly remember purchasing one over and lcd because of it. I know HDR does wonders, but does fix LCDs issues with black?

The other big question I have is what do I need to have it hook up to my PC? I've got an r9 280X which, to my knowledge, is HDMI 1.4. I don't expect to play games at 4K or anything crazy like that with this card, but I would like the capabilities of running my regular desktop and watching videos in 4k, if possible.
 
Alright, so my dad has never really had a big screen tv. The tv he has now is an older 42" Panasonic plasma that I gave him when I upgraded ~8 years ago. He's been happy with it, but he always talks about how he would like to have a bigger tv. My dad has always been there for us whenever we needed him, so I wanted to finally do something for him.

I wanted to get him something that was pretty decent, but he doesn't want/need a top of the line set. As such, I finally ended up ordering him a Sony xbr-65x750d that was open box on Amazon. Price after tax = $900

Fast forward to yesterday, when Target was running the LG 65UH615A for $799 - 10% - 5% = $750 after tax, which I ended up buying, because the price was only good for one day.

So now, the question is: Which one should I keep? Aesthetically, the LG is nicer, as it has a nicer trim and is MUCH thinner than the Sony. Picture wise, I'm thinking the Sony is probably a bit better, but probably not enough that my dad would notice. He's not going to be gaming on it, so input lag isn't a factor here. I haven't gotten the Sony yet, but my gut feeling is that the Smart Apps from WebOS 3.0 would be easier for him to figure out. It'll be used in a living room, so brighter is probably better.

Definitely leaning towards keeping the LG right now, but is there anything else I'm missing? Any of you guys have any opinions?

Sony has android TV so you can sideload some apps which might be useful.

But for simplicity the Firefox based OS from Panasonic seems hard to beat. Pin favourite apps to the home screen which keeps it really clean and clear.
 
Going from a 60' Samsung plasma to a KS8000 soon. Should I expect any downgrades? The black levels are my main concern, the Plasma did such an excellent job with those and I distinctly remember purchasing one over and lcd because of it. I know HDR does wonders, but does fix LCDs issues with black?

I was just about to ask the exact same thing. My 60" Samsung plasma just died, and I'm hoping that a simple fix on the power board will revive it.. but if the fix isn't successful, I'm looking at the KS8000.
 
Just bought a ks7000 to replace my ec930v oled. Never thought a few milliseconds of lag would make so much difference. Playing rocket league and fifa is a revelation. I've barely lost a game since I've had the ks7000 and I love it. The blacks pretty good to if your sitting directly in front of it and I feel there's far more shadow detail as well. Really pleased I switched now. Plus the brightness of the ks7000 adds a lot to bright highlights too. Also the motion on is hands down better on ks7000. I could barely play 30fps games before and TV was not right motion wise. Now they are perfect. Oled is good for black levels but the Samsung does everything else better in my opinion.
 
Going from a 60' Samsung plasma to a KS8000 soon. Should I expect any downgrades? The black levels are my main concern, the Plasma did such an excellent job with those and I distinctly remember purchasing one over and lcd because of it. I know HDR does wonders, but does fix LCDs issues with black?

The other big question I have is what do I need to have it hook up to my PC? I've got an r9 280X which, to my knowledge, is HDMI 1.4. I don't expect to play games at 4K or anything crazy like that with this card, but I would like the capabilities of running my regular desktop and watching videos in 4k, if possible.


I've been playing Blood Bourne and Gears 4 on my KS 8000 and I don't really know what to say other than that the blacks are just fantastic. They aren't gray. The contrast is fantastic. There's no black crush. It's just...great.

9.3 black level and 9.8 black uniformity compared to 10/10 on OLED's by comparison.

http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ks8000
 
HOLY SHIT! Great news!!!

Yeah it really is. The whole communication with LG has been horrible. So I'm happy to have an official response. Now hopefully LG UK follows suit, they were stubbornly saying that LG US and UK are different and don't neccesarily share similar firmwares. While US had been saying they were working on it.

What happened to that whole 'needs new hardware' comment from before?

Yeah, not sure about that. All I can say I guess is that anything that came from their customer service has been mostly useless information.
 

As mentioned by John Archer, it sounds like the 2016 sets might have improved input lag in the three already available HDR picture modes, while a "real" HDR game mode picture is possibly for 2017 sets only.
It remains to be seen how much LG can actually improve the input lag.
Still, great news.

What happened to that whole 'needs new hardware' comment from before?
Although I doubt it, it could still be true, considering that 2016 sets might only get a "bandaid" solution.
 
Well that is definitely gonna produce a cool saturated picture. Definitely not calibrated to standards but I say make the tv look how you like it. You paid for it!

While I agree, that you should set your TV to how you want it, calibration should really only be used as a term, when you are striving for an 'accurate' picture. Those settings aren't going to be anywhere near. If you aren't going to go for a professional calibration though, you are wise to follow his advice and just set it to what looks good to you.

Personally these are my (home) calibrated settings for the B6 (E6 will differ anyway)

Default ISF Dark
OLED: 80
Contrast 85 (anything higher and whites clip)
Brightness 50
Sharpness 10,10
Colour 50
Tint 0

All picture processing 'Off'
TrueMotion Off
Colour Gamut Normal
Gamma 2.4 (any others crush blacks with 50 Brightness)

White Balance
Leave everything at default, including Colour Temperature
Don't touch 20-point as you cannot set accurately without equipment.
On the 2-point just change High to

Red 4
Green 0
Blue 5

Colour Management
All default except
Cyan tint -3
Magenta tint -2
Yellow tint +5

Copying settings is generally a bad idea anyway, but if you are going to do so, just change minimal settings, and don't go near 20-point settings as you will do more harm than good.

ISF Dark and Bright are certainly safe settings though and produce the most accurate image out of the box.
 
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