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The Official Camera Equipment Megathread

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Zyzyxxz

Member
wow nice!

I would love to get one for $200 though. I agree, manual focusing is actually easy unlike the D90. Whenever I try recording a video the LCD doesn't help in my manual focus efforts.
 

Damaged

Member
Well I am now camera-less for the next three to four weeks. My Nikon D3100 had a load of crap inside the prism section of the viewfinder so its been posted to Nikon to decide if they will fix it under warranty.

I figure if crap can get into a sealed section of the camera after seven months of use (and being very carefully looked after), then it must be regarded as a defect or a design flaw right?
 

Damaged

Member
Nero3000 said:
Can anyone suggest some decent lens cleaning kits/apparatus?

I was thinking this Lens Pen, has anyone got any experience using it?

Actually bought that a few weeks ago and its very good, did have a couple of loose hairs in the brush in the end of it but pulled them out and had no problems with it, got that and an air blower that looks decidedly dodgy but works well:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00017LSPI/

71FFFPPxzgL_AA1500_.jpg
 

cbox

Member
What's it like in lower light? Been meaning to get one after I had an affair with the 70-200 IS mkii and fell in love.
 

squared

Member
I think it's great, I mean the IS works so well IMO that you can get really good pics while still using a slower shutter speed. I have by no means steady hands, and I can take decent indoor pics in a dimly lit room. And also, I only shoot in RAW, so I can always save or improve photos later on.. But very few are unsuable/bad photos.
 

Danielsan

Member
Looking to finally purchase a 50mm prime lens for my D3100. Still not sure whether to get the f/1.8 or the f/1.4. The latter being almost twice as expensive. The most important features that I want from the new lens are a great bokeh and great performance in low lit conditions. Is the on 1.4 worth the extra cash considering it is a long term investment?
 

tokkun

Member
Danielsan said:
Looking to finally purchase a 50mm prime lens for my D3100. Still not sure whether to get the f/1.8 or the f/1.4. The latter being almost twice as expensive. The most important features that I want from the new lens are a great bokeh and great performance in low lit conditions. Is the on 1.4 worth the extra cash considering it is a long term investment?

One way to go is to buy the f/1.8 and then sell it later if you decide you need the slightly wider aperture. They don't lose too much value.

Many don't opt to shoot at 1.4 unless necessary due to loss of sharpness.
 

tino

Banned
There is a Photoshop plug-in called bokeh you can fake the bokeh of a 1.2 lens.

Of course it has some limitations. :)
 
A buddy of mine scored a used Olympus E-P1 body on eBay for under $170...dang. Tempted to find one now just to get my foot into the 4/3rds system and maybe look into a future higher-end Panny or Oly body (GF-Pro...E-P4,5,6?) later on.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
This is out there but...

Fujinon lenses for Canon?

Even if this doesn't happen the rumors about a mirrorless ILC Fuji X100 seem to be more and more prevalent. It would be awesome if we saw Fuji throw their weight in the lens market again. It will probably be for APS-C sensors though. Hopefully the things have a physical aperture ring so it can be used on an NEX!
 

tino

Banned
giga said:


Don't knock it until you try it. If the foreground object has a clear outline, it can make pretty realistic bokeh.

You can't do it with things like hair or leaves in the foreground, but that's what a $1000 lens get you.


BlueTsunami said:
This is out there but...

Fujinon lenses for Canon?

Even if this doesn't happen the rumors about a mirrorless ILC Fuji X100 seem to be more and more prevalent. It would be awesome if we saw Fuji throw their weight in the lens market again. It will probably be for APS-C sensors though. Hopefully the things have a physical aperture ring so it can be used on an NEX!


You want to use Fuji mirrorless lens on NEX? Why do you want to do that.

Most likely scenario Fuji will make a 1.5X body with a set of proprietary mirrorless lenses. But unlike the Samsung and the Ricoh designs, the Fuji version will actually look good.
 

a176

Banned
tino said:
I got a NEX-3 recently. I was cruising ebay one night and was randomly throwing NEX-3 and NEX-5 auctions to gixen in case I can catch a good deal.

I came across a gazelle auction that listed a "good" condition NEX-3 body for $310. Nowadays you pretty much can find a new NEX-3
body for $300 if you look hard. I noticed it has a "make your offer" option so just
for fun I made a lowball offer of $225. To my surprise I got the "offer accepted" email 1 second later. I realized they set a very low accepted price for this camera. I felt a little bit dumb afterward. I should have lowballed gazelle from $200! Hell I should have make an alternate account to test the bottom line.

So, I ended up joining the mirrorless army sooner than I expected. Choosing NEX was
a no-brainer for me. The whole world knew Nikon was going to release a (useless) 2.5X format EVIL, which turned out to be a 2.7X format. Canon, being so successful in the entry level DSLR market, has even less incentive to release an APS-C mirrorless camera to confuse its traditional "Rebel" buyers. So there is no way Canon will release a 1.6X EVIL that can adapt to their EOS lenses seamlessly. As for the Fujifilm 1.5X EVIL rumor.... I haven't heard enough "credible" rumor. Plus I am pretty sure I can't afford a Fuji system even if they commit to a 1.5X system.

The camera arrived. Besides the scratched shutter button and the bottom, everything looks find. The testing photos I took looked fine. I haven't test its ISO limit yet, but I think I won't go over 800 very often for this body.

Since I don't plan to buy any ugly NEX lenses so I ordered a Nikon NEX/G adopter right away. I got the version that has a tripod mount on ebay. I have played with it for two days so I thought I would post some hands on comment.

For Nikon lenses that have aperture rings, you just have to set the aperture ring on the adapter to open and set aperture on the lens itself. On new lenses that don't have aperture rings, you have to control it from the adapter. However the aperture ring is stepless. From wide open to the smallest aperture only turns a narrow 30-40 degree. I am going to have to put a sticker there and make my own aperture marks.

Here is how it look with an AIS 50mm 1.8 (the most "pancake" like Nikon AIS)
6174384244_69b5d857e2.jpg

the ability to use all these different kind of lenses is a big draw for mirrorless. now imagine using these lenses for movies on a capable body like panasonic gh2.

http://www.vimeo.com/29194198 gh2 + noktor 50mm/0.95
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
tino said:
You want to use Fuji mirrorless lens on NEX? Why do you want to do that.

Most likely scenario Fuji will make a 1.5X body with a set of proprietary mirrorless lenses. But unlike the Samsung and the Ricoh designs, the Fuji version will actually look good.

I like Fuji design philosophy behind their lenses. They draw a certain way (great colors and softer contrast) but aren't clinical (like certain Zeiss lenses can be). If they bust out with an interesting lens that can be adapted to the NEX I may be intrigued.
 

tino

Banned
chaostrophy said:
Yeah...I'd think the 7D and D7000 would be more appropriate cameras to compare it to.

A77 has even lower ISO score than NEX-3 (830). APS sensors should stay below 12mp IMO.
 

tino

Banned
Just ordered a Konica 40mm 1.8 pancake lens and an adapter for my NEX.

I am planning the whole set of lens for now, I think this is going to be my set by the end of next year:

Ultra Wide: E16+ECU1 (18mm equivalent)
Wide: E16 (24mm equivalent)
Normal Wide: 28mm 2.8 AIS (42mm equivalent)
Nornal: Konica 40mm 1.8 Hexanon (60mm equivalent)
Portrait: 50mm 1.2 AIS (75mm equivalent)
 

Forsete

Member
chaostrophy said:
Yeah...I'd think the 7D and D7000 would be more appropriate cameras to compare it to.

7D: 854
D7000: 1167

A77 will probably benefit a little due to the large images it spits out.
 

Chairhome

Member
Has anyone had experience with Kiwi Lens Adapters? Picked one up after I realized I bought a lens that was different from the adapter that I already had. I noticed that it kinda had a "smear" effect, and I thought it was the lens I bought, but after "free-lensing" with the lens, I found that it was the adapter. Should I look into buying a different adapter, or is this effect apparent on any FD to EF adapter?
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Forsete said:
7D: 854
D7000: 1167

A77 will probably benefit a little due to the large images it spits out.

Who knows how much the translucent mirror is effecting that score too. Will be interesting to see how the NEX-7 measures up.
 

tokkun

Member
The A77 is 1/16 EV worse in low light performance than 7D and a bit less than 1/2 EV worse than the D7000.

That's not that bad considering the translucent mirror is supposed to cost 1/3 EV.

The A77's sensor has a very high dynamic range, so you are probably fine shooting at -0.5 EV and then fixing the exposure in post. It's a little extra hassle, but you ought to be able to get as good or better results with the A77.

That said, the 7D is 2 years old. I think people would have liked to see a more significant win for the A77. But I think that realistically you have to expect that SLTs are not going to be the top performers in high ISO and balance that against the benefits the technology brings to the table.
 

Radec

Member
^
Maybe the high MP count bottlenecks the sensor on the low light department.

I wish they could have just limit it to 16, on NEX7 atleast. :/
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Thats something people have talked about, the higher MP the more noise you get. Its simply laws of physics.
 

Radec

Member
captive said:
Thats something people have talked about, the higher MP the more noise you get. Its simply laws of physics.

nah, sensors improve everytime. It's just a matter of time before they can do a D3s ISO on a 20+ MP sensor.

It ain't physics if they can change it.
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Another problem with such a high pixel count is that looking at your files at the pixel level definitely gives the appearance of softness but is still picking up a great amount of detail. I have a feeling there's going to be a real love/hate relationship with the IQ of this 24MP sensor with people who like to test their equipment.

On another note, having seen mind bogglingly good ISO12,800 examples with the D3x, it really puts things in perspective in regards to how well the big boy cameras deal with higher ISO. Really can't wait to see how the 5DMKIII performs.
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Radec said:
nah, sensors improve everytime. It's just a matter of time before they can do a D3s ISO on a 20+ MP sensor.

It ain't physics if they can change it.
D3s and D3x are also full frame cameras. The Nex is a crop. And yes, it is all about physics. Namely pixel density.
There is a reason the D3s goes much higher than the D3x.

There are other issues as well. When you get higher mp cameras they begin to really show flaws in your optics. Look at the D3x, people highly regarded the Nikkor 24-70 until they put it on a D3x. This is a minor case because by all accounts its still a fantastic lens.

Diffraction sets in earlier the higher mp you have on a full frame or crop camera.

Not to mention what are you really gaining with more megapixels? Going from 12mp to say 24mp doesn't double your resolution.

I agree pretty much 100% with the below
But wait, I hear you say, these are incredibly small numbers! Why do camera makers keep making cameras with many more megapixels every year? The answer is simple. They need a reason to convince us in the public that the next model we buy will be a big upgrade from the one they we now. What better way to do it than with a number that steadily increases as camera makers make bigger sensors every year?

So, what is the lesson to be learned from all of this? Megapixels are great. They brought digital photography out of the dark ages and allowed photographers to make digital images that compare to film images. But megapixels are no reason to upgrade your current model. Instead, focus on a kind of image you would like to get and consider the limitations of your current camera model. You might need a different lens or a camera body that takes a quicker continuous stream of photos. If you do end up buying a new camera body, do it for reasons other than the fact that you will be getting more megapixels with it.
http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/333/do-more-megapixels-mean-better-photo-quality/


I also agree with Thom Hogan when he says: if you aren't getting good results now with the camera you have a new camera isn't going to help.
 

tino

Banned
tokkun said:
The A77 is 1/16 EV worse in low light performance than 7D and a bit less than 1/2 EV worse than the D7000.

That's not that bad considering the translucent mirror is supposed to cost 1/3 EV.

The A77's sensor has a very high dynamic range, so you are probably fine shooting at -0.5 EV and then fixing the exposure in post. It's a little extra hassle, but you ought to be able to get as good or better results with the A77.

That said, the 7D is 2 years old. I think people would have liked to see a more significant win for the A77. But I think that realistically you have to expect that SLTs are not going to be the top performers in high ISO and balance that against the benefits the technology brings to the table.

I am not convinced a sensor with higher latitute can capture good amount of information in low light. It depends on the design. Take the Fuji SuperCCD sensor for example. Half of the pixels are regular pixels and the other half are less sensitive pixels gear toward high light detail. This gives the sensor a very wide dynamic range in sacrifice of detail. It's impossible to blow out the high light with this sensor but the low light performance is nothing special. Fuji couldn't improve the low light performance. That was one of the reason they switched from CCD to CMOS in their in house sensors.

I am not aware of any special design in this Sony 24mp sensor. However if they did Sony would have given it a fancy name and made sure the whole world know about it.

The way I see it. Canon started the pixel arm race and now its being one upped by Sony. They both knew this design sacrifice full weather performance of the sensors in exchange for detail in optimal light situations. This design also give benefit to picture taken with high-re lens but does little to older lenses designed for film. That's why I always prefer a lower pixel count sensor given the same design time frame.
 

tokkun

Member
captive said:
Not to mention what are you really gaining with more megapixels? Going from 12mp to say 24mp doesn't double your resolution.

Here is what Popular Photography's tests show about the resolution of the new sensor:

The A77 earned an overall image-quality rating of Excellent from its lowest sensitivity of ISO 50 through ISO 400. At the heart of this assessment is the camera's Excellent rating in our resolution test, where it turned in 2770 lines per picture height. Compare that with the 18MP Canon 7D's 2610 lines or the 12.3MP Nikon D300s's 2340 lines, both at their lowest ISO settings of ISO 100.

Given that the Sony has so many more pixels than either of those cameras, you'd be right to expect even more resolving power, but Sony usually doesn't push hard to boost resolution. The A77 does hold a lot of its resolving power as ISO rises, though. At ISO 400, it barely dropped to 2720, while at ISO 1600 it held at 2620 lines

http://www.popphoto.com/gear/2011/09/lab-test-sony-a77-new-king-aps-c-dslrs
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
The 5N looks like the NEX to get if you really want good high ISO performance. I've read about how remarkable it is at higher ISO's but I wasn't prepared for this...

imloBms18O5ww.png


Not only is noise relatively low it seems to hold detail well

I really hope the NEX-7 fares better than the A77 otherwise I'll be in the camp that wishes the NEX7 body contained the 5N sensor.

Here's 1600 which is where I'm usually hanging at with indoor lighting...

 

Damaged

Member
Okay so my temporary lack of DSLR has made me look at my 35mm film SLR again and the cost of developing seems to have gone through the roof since I used to use it regularly.

This got me to thinking about processing my own Black and White negatives and scanning them in, I used to use a darkroom in college so know roughly what I'm doing and should be able to spool a roll of film in a dark bag. This kit on ebay seems to have all i'll need apart from the dark bag, chemicals and a couple of odds and sods (canister opener for fully wound back films ect...)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350490832...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1942wt_952

Does anybody else in CameraGAF land do this or does anybody have any experience processing film at home? Could certainly use some pointers and advice with regards to what Kit would be needed.
 
My PanaLeica 25mm 1.4 came in yesterday. This is the closest I'll ever get to owning a real Leica. I'll post some gear porn pics later on my EP3 later.
 
Damaged said:
Okay so my temporary lack of DSLR has made me look at my 35mm film SLR again and the cost of developing seems to have gone through the roof since I used to use it regularly.

This got me to thinking about processing my own Black and White negatives and scanning them in, I used to use a darkroom in college so know roughly what I'm doing and should be able to spool a roll of film in a dark bag. This kit on ebay seems to have all i'll need apart from the dark bag, chemicals and a couple of odds and sods (canister opener for fully wound back films ect...)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350490832...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1942wt_952

Does anybody else in CameraGAF land do this or does anybody have any experience processing film at home? Could certainly use some pointers and advice with regards to what Kit would be needed.

I processed film at home regularly for a couple of years. I bought my equipment as separate parts, rather than using a kit. That kit looks worthwhile, though the plastic tanks/reels have their own foibles (loading film can be tricky/inconsistent, uses more chemicals) and will eventually break down. I recommend an aluminum tank and steel reels (look for those by Hewes). Digital thermometers are accurate and don't drift, but they eat batteries quickly. You could probably use some additional graduated cylinders (one 500ml and one 50ml) for more accurate measurement of chemicals, plus a 5ml syringe for measuring developer syrup concentrate (Rodinal, HC-110, etc.). Also, pick up a few bottles for temporary storage of chemistry solutions.

You will also need clips for hanging your film up and a place to hang them that's relatively dust-free. A cheap vinyl garment hanger is great for this.
 

adam.chance

Neo Member
Hey Camera-GAF,

I have not been following the thread, so feel free to shame me, but I could use some recommendations. I am moving to Japan for a couple of months and want a new point and shoot camera to take with me, since my current one bit the dust. I had an old canon from 2008. It wasn't more than $225 USD. My dad is going to let me use his nice canon DSLR (the generation before the Tseries), so I just want a point and shoot I can take with me when I am just around town and don't want the bulk.

I have a discerning eye and I like to take pictures, but I do not intend to do anything professonal with the photos. They would just be for personal use on a blog. I might print up a few. I think I would like a like a camera that has a small form factor and is fast to boot up and shoot. I would like to keep it in my pocket, rather than a case. I would also like it to have a decent zoom. I am looking to spend around $300USD, but would be willing to go up in price if the quality jump is justified. I can use my eye-fi sd card, so I can spend a little more on the camera, since I do not need to buy accessories.

Thanks, GAF!
 

tino

Banned
The usually suspects, S90, S95, LX3, LX5, G11, G12 etc, which ever falls in your budget blanket.

I don't recommend the F300exr anymore since its sensor is smaller.
 

Damaged

Member
jiji said:
I processed film at home regularly for a couple of years. I bought my equipment as separate parts, rather than using a kit. That kit looks worthwhile, though the plastic tanks/reels have their own foibles (loading film can be tricky/inconsistent, uses more chemicals) and will eventually break down. I recommend an aluminum tank and steel reels (look for those by Hewes). Digital thermometers are accurate and don't drift, but they eat batteries quickly. You could probably use some additional graduated cylinders (one 500ml and one 50ml) for more accurate measurement of chemicals, plus a 5ml syringe for measuring developer syrup concentrate (Rodinal, HC-110, etc.). Also, pick up a few bottles for temporary storage of chemistry solutions.

You will also need clips for hanging your film up and a place to hang them that's relatively dust-free. A cheap vinyl garment hanger is great for this.

Thanks for the advice, looks like all in it shouldn't cost more than £100 for everything I need. Considering I would be getting charged that just for developing ten films I guess it should start to pay off fairly quickly, plus I remember it being fun to do :)

Good call on the garment hanger by the way, hadn't even thought about where I was going to dry the negatives lol

Edit: found a slightly better looking Kit

http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/paterson-film-processing-kit-2562-p.asp
 
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