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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!

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I am actually still collecting consoles. I have a Genesis 3 but am probably going to get a 1. Same thing with SNES, I am going to pick up a 1-chip on eBay. I believe my Saturn is the model 2. I have a PS2 that I currently have connected via component but wonder if PS1 games would be better with SCART out of a PS1. Then there's the DC and I am pretty ignorant on that console, about which one to get.

Of course retro_console_accessories goes on break while I was sleeping so I can't link you the cables directly. Oh well.

The Genesis 3 doesn't output RGB. For the model 1 find one that says "High Definition Graphics" and then use her boosted csync cable that has the additional plug that goes in the front for stereo sound. If you want stereo sound that is. Also you still may get "jailbars" on blue with the early Genesis 1s. There is a fix for that that I've done myself so just ask if you run into that problem.

For the SNES, every model of the fat version outputs csync except for the 1CHIP-03 revision. So csync cable should be fine unless you get that version or get a modded mini that doesn't have csync wired. Also note that I believe that this is the original system that she made the "upgraded" cable for to make it more like the old official Nintendo cable. She sells that now as a separate option, but it's up to you if it is worth the money.

For the Saturn the models don't really matter. I've head that the model 1 may look a little better then the model 2, but it's not super noticeable. There are however a ton of motherboard revisions that each may handle things differently. From what I've read csync may look better but some versions of the model 2 motherboard may give it problems. So if you have a model 2 it may be safer to just go with the composite video as sync cable. Also not that this is one of the systems that you have to make sure that you are getting the cable for your region of the system since I believe it has different pinouts region to region.

Dreamcast can use VGA and that is it's own separate bag of worms that someone else will have to assist you with. I just haven't put any time into looking up the details of it yet.
 
If you walk me through what you're doing trying to get them I may be able to help you out. Hard to say with just the info provided.
Well for example when I am playing Wii VC (Secret of Mana) I was hitting the C button (which on the overlay says "scan lines") and then hit ok, nothing happens. I used to have the original firmware, which as I understand only meister mode had scan lines, and I tried putting on scan lines on meister mode and didn't get anything. I figured ok, maybe it's the original firmware giving me trouble. But I just put on the latest firmware and it still seems to not be working.
 
Well for example when I am playing Wii VC (Secret of Mana) I was hitting the C button (which on the overlay says "scan lines") and then hit ok, nothing happens. I used to have the original firmware, which as I understand only meister mode had scan lines, and I tried putting on scan lines on meister mode and didn't get anything. I figured ok, maybe it's the original firmware giving me trouble. But I just put on the latest firmware and it still seems to not be working.

I think the C button optio is a bit finnicky. I would try using the proper scanlines option (I believe it's under "special". Also, scanlines for some resolutions are going to look REALLY thin. It's possible that they're there but just look like noise.
 

televator

Member
I'm having a problem with the Framemeister where I can't get any scan lines on any picture mode. I downloaded the current firmware. What am I doing wrong?

I had the same problem when I first got it... It's called V line on the frame Meister look through the menu, you'll see it. By the way the menu button is the lower left circular button from the okay button.
 
I had the same problem when I first got it... It's called V line on the frame Meister look through the menu, you'll see it. By the way the menu button is the lower left circular button from the okay button.
On my overlay it says "menu" is the button under the right arrow next to the ok button. I'm using the menu>>>special>>>scanline>>>ok option and it still doesn't seem to be working. Do I have to customize how they look? There are the options for the thickness and stuff of them.
 
Ok so the scan lines are working on my Wii VC now. I was just streaming some video content and thought the scan lines would work there. Why don't they work for, say, Netflix? Wouldn't that be fun?
 

televator

Member
On my overlay it says "menu" is the button under the right arrow next to the ok button. I'm using the menu>>>special>>>scanline>>>ok option and it still doesn't seem to be working. Do I have to customize how they look? There are the options for the thickness and stuff of them.

Yeah I mixed up my right and left. lol derp. And double derp. The new firmware calls it scan line. Well looks like you found it no thanks me. Hahaha. Sorry about that.
 

Peltz

Member
Interlacing ends up looking like this.

I showed this to my friend. He told me to just use my HDTV's motion smoothing to get rid of that. Then he said he even thinks his HD games look way better with motion smoothing setting switched on.

crying-indian.gif
 

TGO

Hype Train conductor. Works harder than it steams.
Just saying it looked better on that screen. The increase in screen resolution was more important than the loss of temporal resolution, edges of objects in Metroid Prime had less aliasing.
From my pass experience only a few games looked better in 480p over 576i.
Although it's interlaced it was still a sharper and clearer picture.
Same with DVD's, Pal DVD's were much sharper then US discs.

Anyway, I'm from the uk and the XRGB3 is well expensive, any other alternatives?
 
Yeah I mixed up my right and left. lol derp. And double derp. The new firmware calls it scan line. Well looks like you found it no thanks me. Hahaha. Sorry about that.
Nah it was helpful, I didn't remember that the scan lines "button" (c button) isn't exactly the same as getting there in the menu.
So what do people have their scan lines set to for 720p?
 
Can most systems that people here use SCART for also do S-video? For example if you had a Model 1 Genesis, a SNES 1-chip or an RGB modded N64, are there cables for them that do S-video natively? In the case of the N64, does the RGB mod remove S-video capability from it? I would like to have both options for my consoles in case I end up getting a consumer Sony Trinitron.
 
Can most systems that people here use SCART for also do S-video? For example if you had a Model 1 Genesis, a SNES 1-chip or an RGB modded N64, are there cables for them that do S-video natively? In the case of the N64, does the RGB mod remove S-video capability from it? I would like to have both options for my consoles in case I end up getting a consumer Sony Trinitron.

Most do, but Genesis is RGB, Composite, and RF only. It does not output S-Video.

PAL Gamecubes do RGB but not do S-Video and NTSC Gamecubes do S-Video but not RGB
 
Can most systems that people here use SCART for also do S-video? For example if you had a Model 1 Genesis, a SNES 1-chip or an RGB modded N64, are there cables for them that do S-video natively? In the case of the N64, does the RGB mod remove S-video capability from it? I would like to have both options for my consoles in case I end up getting a consumer Sony Trinitron.

I know a bit about this from modding my Genesis and SNES video output. Model 1 Genesis won't do s-video without a mod, and it needs an extra jack. Unless you had a cable that conveted RGBS into L/C you're not going to get s-video without modding.

The 1-chip SNES even when its RGB modded doesn't necessarily have the s-video lines hooked up. It's probably down to who modded it. As far as I know modding in s-video to the 1-chip SNES is very easy, like beginner soldering skills and some wire is all that's required.

If you already have everything RGB modded or capable and are getting a consumer Trinitron, look at getting one with component inputs and an RGB to component box. The picture would effectively be just as good as RGB.
 
The 1-chip SNES even when its RGB modded doesn't necessarily have the s-video lines hooked up. It's probably down to who modded it. As far as I know modding in s-video to the 1-chip SNES is very easy, like beginner soldering skills and some wire is all that's required.

I thought the 1-chip SNES natively did RGB and did not require a mod.

If you already have everything RGB modded or capable and are getting a consumer Trinitron, look at getting one with component inputs and an RGB to component box. The picture would effectively be just as good as RGB.

Good point, the TV I want is the KV-36FV310 and that has component in. In that case you think any system RGB modded would be best with an RGB>>>YPbPr converter and everything else in as S-video? Also do you know of a good converter for that?
 

TGO

Hype Train conductor. Works harder than it steams.
OK decided to hook my PS2 up by RGB scart, not sure what's going on but the picture quality has improved over the components.
That does not make sense what's so ever lol
 

IrishNinja

Member
are the profiles just people's settings exported for others to try? does the actual functions still stay the same?

it's just settings, not sure what you mean with actual functions though

OK decided to hook my PS2 up by RGB scart, not sure what's going on but the picture quality has improved over the components.
That does not make sense what's so ever lol

haha yup, been saying this for a minute now!
 
OK decided to hook my PS2 up by RGB scart, not sure what's going on but the picture quality has improved over the components.
That does not make sense what's so ever lol

PS2's component output is not so clean. RGB gives the best image quality for 240p/480i and even 480p if you find a way to get the RGsB signal in to your monitor/TV
 
The Mini/Jr is probably less hassle to acquire but does require modding. I managed to get a 1CHIP-02 Super Famicom but I had help from someone looking in Japan for me, who was also kind enough to open it up and check it before sending too.
So by that do you mean a model 2 1-chip, that had to be modded for RGB?
 

Peagles

Member
So by that do you mean a model 2 1-chip, that had to be modded for RGB?

No. There's a few different types of 1CHIP.

There's the model 2 (Mini/Jr) which has a completely different shell, which requires RGB modding.

Then there's the model 1 (original SFC/SNES) which is just a later revision of the SNES with a newer motherboard inside, they came in 3 variations (1CHIP 01/02/03) but you can't tell which unless you open it up. There are some telltale signs (serial number, sometimes different stickers and cosmetic differences on the shell) that help you to distinguish a 1CHIP model 1 from the older varieties. Like the other model 1s they don't require RGB modding (some people like to do an amp mod to clean it up and apparently make it look as good as the model 2, but I personally haven't bothered yet).
 

brainpann

Member
No. There's a few different types of 1CHIP.

There's the model 2 (Mini/Jr) which has a completely different shell, which requires RGB modding.

Then there's the model 1 (original SFC/SNES) which is just a later revision of the SNES with a newer motherboard inside, they came in 3 variations (1CHIP 01/02/03) but you can't tell which unless you open it up. There are some telltale signs (serial number, sometimes different stickers and cosmetic differences on the shell) that help you to distinguish a 1CHIP model 1 from the older varieties. Like the other model 1s they don't require RGB modding (some people like to do an amp mod to clean it up and apparently make it look as good as the model 2, but I personally haven't bothered yet).

Ive amp modded my 1-chip and it does make the picture as clean as the model 2. I definitely recommend it to anyone with a model 1 1-chip.
 

Danchi

Member
Okay, so I recently got a Sony PVM-L414. Everything was fine until just now when I decided to dick around with it...

I went into the hidden systems menu (menu, degauss + enter), then to system, factory, and standard. I thought this was like a "factory reset" option so any colour preferences/whatever of the previous owner would be reset and I could start a fresh.

Anyway, now everything has this heavy pink tint to it. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
 

Peagles

Member
Okay, so I recently got a Sony PVM-L414. Everything was fine until just now when I decided to dick around with it...

I went into the hidden systems menu (menu, degauss + enter), then to system, factory, and standard. I thought this was like a "factory reset" option so any colour preferences/whatever of the previous owner would be reset and I could start a fresh.

Anyway, now everything has this heavy pink tint to it. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I'm not familiar with that model, but it might have changed the settings from RGB back to component. Try changing that back first. It's usually either a button or in the first set of menu settings.
 

Danchi

Member
I'm not familiar with that model, but it might have changed the settings from RGB back to component. Try changing that back first. It's usually either a button or in the first set of menu settings.

You got it. Thanks!

You'd think if I knew about a "secret" menu I'd have the foresight to check something on the first page ;)
 

Peagles

Member
You got it. Thanks!

You'd think if I knew about a "secret" menu I'd have the foresight to check something on the first page ;)

:p

Honestly, I only know about that cos I fiddled about with it in the menu and noticed it went pink when I switched to component while I had RGB plugged in.

At least you didn't do what I did and put it into aging mode, and then freak out for 15 minutes reading about how you can't stop aging mode and have to let it run its course and it's super bad for the tube, and then later finding out you can easily stop the process by pressing literally any button except the power button which was all I had tried, lol.
 

Danchi

Member
:p

Honestly, I only know about that cos I fiddled about with it in the menu and noticed it went pink when I switched to component while I had RGB plugged in.

At least you didn't do what I did and put it into aging mode, and then freak out for 15 minutes reading about how you can't stop aging mode and have to let it run its course and it's super bad for the tube, and then later finding out you can easily stop the process by pressing literally any button except the power button which was all I had tried, lol.

I've never even heard of aging mode so I'll keep that in mind the next time I'm digging through the menus :p
 

Khaz

Member
Yeah, doing a "factory reset" isn't generally good for your TVs, and it usually ends up messing badly with the picture. As I understand it, CRTs come out of the assembly line with a lot of variability for geometry, colours brightness and tint, and any other parameter you can think of. Then they are tweaked by an engineer to correct the display and give them all the same look, by adjusting values in the hidden system menu. The system menu is still available via a cheat code in case something is messed up or for a technician to adjust stuff after repairing it. But if you are resetting your display values to "factory settings" in the hidden menu, all you will get are the value your screen had before being tweaked to a correct setting by an engineer. A messed up picture.

Factory reset can be useful to start over with a clean slate, but you'll need the proper tools to be able to make it look good again.
 
Good point, the TV I want is the KV-36FV310 and that has component in. In that case you think any system RGB modded would be best with an RGB>>>YPbPr converter and everything else in as S-video? Also do you know of a good converter for that?

I don't have my own Trinitron but I've spent way too much time researching this stuff. I've heard good things about this, (you need some way to accommodate audio though) but if you're up for it building your own box with a couple of chips and some jacks it could be done for much cheaper. If possible use component wherever it's relatively easy, s-video as a backup for things like N64. Color accuracy is just a bit nicer with component.
 

baphomet

Member
Yeah, doing a "factory reset" isn't generally good for your TVs, and it usually ends up messing badly with the picture. As I understand it, CRTs come out of the assembly line with a lot of variability for geometry, colours brightness and tint, and any other parameter you can think of. Then they are tweaked by an engineer to correct the display and give them all the same look, by adjusting values in the hidden system menu. The system menu is still available via a cheat code in case something is messed up or for a technician to adjust stuff after repairing it. But if you are resetting your display values to "factory settings" in the hidden menu, all you will get are the value your screen had before being tweaked to a correct setting by an engineer. A messed up picture.

Factory reset can be useful to start over with a clean slate, but you'll need the proper tools to be able to make it look good again.

Yea, unless youre going to calibrate it correctly after doing a factory reset then you really shouldn't be doing it.
 

BTails

Member
kRnntkT.jpg


"Kidman, you've got to keep moving! Stop looking for PVMs!"
-The Evil Within: The Consequence DLC (PS4)

I literally though of this thread as soon as I got to this part in the DLC.
 

antibolo

Banned
kRnntkT.jpg


"Kidman, you've got to keep moving! Stop looking for PVMs!"
-The Evil Within: The Consequence DLC (PS4)

I literally though of this thread as soon as I got to this part in the DLC.

That room is probably very similar to the garages of some of us here.
 

Peagles

Member

Mercutio

Member
Looks great, but I'd be wary of paying a premium just because it's labelled as a 1CHIP. I mean, it's up to you, but there's really no reason they should be charging more. Seems they're just taking advantage.

There's a few good writeups about how to spot them. I'm about to go out but I'll try reply with them when I get home.

Yeah, and at that price, it better be a 1CHIP that is mint. No dings. No marks.

Plus getting a 1CHIP or mini doesn't seem to be an indicator of the strength of the white bright line that some snes units have. My 1CHIP 02 doesn't have it, but some 01, 02, and minis do.
 

televator

Member
I cant wait for the NES HDMI mods to come out and be a hit, so that someone will be encouraged to make an SNES version. Then this 1chip business wont matter to me and anyone else going the HDTV route.
 
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