If you're using the GBS 8200 you might need a US adapter.
As for scart selectors, I don't have one, but it should work as long as it's powered up along with having a scart cable(which is guaranteed to work).
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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!
- Thread starter IrishNinja
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As for scart selectors, I don't have one, but it should work as long as it's powered up along with having a scart cable(which is guaranteed to work).
So I just got a TOSHIBA 14-Inch Colour FST Pure 14AF42 FLAT TV that came with an RCA System Link 3 Universal Remote.
Unfortunately, there are no menu or Input buttons the TV and can't seem to make this remote access the video channels (changing channels manually doesn't work).
Any advice or experience? My Saturn is dying here, Lol.
Unfortunately, there are no menu or Input buttons the TV and can't seem to make this remote access the video channels (changing channels manually doesn't work).
Any advice or experience? My Saturn is dying here, Lol.
D.Lo
Member
Universal remote. Or you could try a Wii U pad if you have one lol!
That sounds insane but I love it; gonna try that now.
Edit: Holy shit, the Wii U came through! Thanks so much!
baphomet
Member
What are you planning on running the signal out of the PVM into? And no, it won't carry any power.
sixteen-bit
Member
Nintendo overdelivering on value
speedlolita
Member
I have a launch Super Famicom.
I'm using an official GameCube RGB SCART cable. I swapped pins on the AV port so that composite sync is now on the old composite video pin.
What I'd like to do now is isolate the sound, as my god is the hum noisy - especially compared to other consoles.
Does anyone know about tapping audio directly from the APU at all? Was wondering if I could maybe isolate some internal circuit and cut it out of the line and tap directly from the APU to the AV port - or something like that. If not, install a dedicated headphone jack/RCA jacks to provide sound for the SNES.
Kinda bumming me out right now.
I'm using an official GameCube RGB SCART cable. I swapped pins on the AV port so that composite sync is now on the old composite video pin.
What I'd like to do now is isolate the sound, as my god is the hum noisy - especially compared to other consoles.
Does anyone know about tapping audio directly from the APU at all? Was wondering if I could maybe isolate some internal circuit and cut it out of the line and tap directly from the APU to the AV port - or something like that. If not, install a dedicated headphone jack/RCA jacks to provide sound for the SNES.
Kinda bumming me out right now.
PumpkinSpice
Banned
It might be doable but you'd A) definitely lose sound from expansion pins (Super GameBoy) and B) would probably still have the hum. Check the schematic here, you can trace the audio lines back.
Alternatively look into the spdif mod. You'll get a super clean audio, but again no expansion audio.
speedlolita
Member
Hmm. I'd definitely do the spdif mod if my amplifier supported that...
Is there any inexpensive solutions to muxing spdif back to analog?
Is there any inexpensive solutions to muxing spdif back to analog?
PumpkinSpice
Banned
Does your amplifier take TOSLINK (optical audio)? If so they're the same standard, just one going over a metal wire and the other (stupidly) going over fiber optic cable, so converters between the two are pretty cheap and work well.
speedlolita
Member
Nah it looks as if I'd need to literally buy a device that accepts spdif and spits out RCA - but these seems inexpensive.
My amplifier is a super basic Cambridge Audio 340A.
Edit: Looking at a schematic I can see that the AV port is connected directly to the SHVC-SOUND module so there'd be no point trying to bypass nothing eh?
My amplifier is a super basic Cambridge Audio 340A.
Edit: Looking at a schematic I can see that the AV port is connected directly to the SHVC-SOUND module so there'd be no point trying to bypass nothing eh?
Really??, i got my PVM-20L5 of eBay last year for £30....and it was only a 30 minute drive from me
Maybe i should pick that SONY PVM 2730QM up from £200 then...but the lack of geometry controls is a concern
speedlolita
Member
Not sure that is enough. That said, it may just be so noticeable because of the amp in my 20M4E. The hum isn't really noticeable on my KX-14CP1.
Really??, i got my PVM-20L5 of eBay last year for £30....and it was only a 30 minute drive from me
Maybe i should pick that SONY PVM 2730QM up from £200 then...but the lack of geometry controls is a concern
For eBay it's really good! I got my 20M4U and 14L2 for $20 each (local). BVM was $150~ + shipping (eBay), a bit high for me but I have the CRT bug. I resist buying more each week and only because of space limitations.
Yep, it's shielding (coax wires) all the way, or cut the wires off. Even if you extract the signal at the the base, interferences happening in non-shielded portions just crawl back up.
Friend of Sonic
Member
Just to hijack this, I tried coax with my systems and switch boxes. Not all of my systema though. I wonder where the interference is coming from for the systems that are shielded
Thanks, I went ahead and ordered one with a PSU to be safe. Do you have any other tips for using the PEXHDCAP?
My plan is PVM RGB Output -> RGB breakout to SCART cable -> Sync Strike -> VGA to DVI Cable -> PexHDCap (Capture Card)
Really??, i got my PVM-20L5 of eBay last year for £30....and it was only a 30 minute drive from me
Maybe i should pick that SONY PVM 2730QM up from £200 then...but the lack of geometry controls is a concern
I got mine for $75 and local pick up (about an hour away), totally worth it. 20L5 is amazing.
D.Lo
Member
It's the extremely high bandwidth of RGB. So bright white screens have a maxxed out signal burning up all three RGB lines, and this manages to bleed into the sound. Especially over long cable lengths, as the interference builds over the length. It doesn't help that often bright screens are a fade out or something, so have no or little audio, so all you hear is video interference!
This is why component is superior in a lot of ways, the same signal converted to component loses 0-1% of colour information but is much lower bandwidth. On my el cheapo PS2 RGB and component cables, I get buzz on bright screens using the RGB cable, but none via the component cable.
speedlolita
Member
Probably my poorly made female SCART to BNC cable then. haha
I added my Hama switch into the equation and sound is absolutely fine now.
So I'm slightly confused on this and just want to confirm before I go ahead and order anything.
If I'm using a Toshiba 14AF42 with a SCART RGB to YUV Component Video Converter, what type of output/sync do I want a Sega Saturn RGB audio video AV SCART Cable to be? EuroSCART and Csync?
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...sc-cable-tv-lead-cord-with-rca-sound-breakout
Help is much appreciated, cheers.
If I'm using a Toshiba 14AF42 with a SCART RGB to YUV Component Video Converter, what type of output/sync do I want a Sega Saturn RGB audio video AV SCART Cable to be? EuroSCART and Csync?
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk...sc-cable-tv-lead-cord-with-rca-sound-breakout
Help is much appreciated, cheers.
Cross-posting some (edit: Freedom Planet) images from the Screenshot thread. I know someone will mention the original intended medium, the artist's original vision, etc. I can disregard that for a moment if I can get a better result and I think this is definitely much better than what you get on a fixed pixel display. This also is not about scanline obsession. I picked up a little PVM this weekend with no visible scanlines and the image on it has a rich depthness and warmth (fourth screenshot) that looks very pleasant next to the flat HDTV shots. It was harder to get pictures of this PVM because the screen is so small and my camera lens cannot come as close as I want without losing focus.
Finally, the game's native resolution is a wide 240p so this isn't crazy by any stretch of the imagination.
BVM on left, 8" PVM with low TVL on right
Compare to this:
Finally, the game's native resolution is a wide 240p so this isn't crazy by any stretch of the imagination.
BVM on left, 8" PVM with low TVL on right
Compare to this:
PumpkinSpice
Banned
What game?
sixteen-bit
Member
Freedom Planet?
How do you get your computer to output 240p with csync?
How do you get a correct aspect ratio on a 4:3 CRT? the original resolution is 426×240 with square pixels, the picture should appear stretched vertically. Nevermind that I forgot some TVs have a widescreen mode, than can even be triggered via Scart.
CRT Emudriver, Radeon HD 4xxx card, Windows 7 PC, DVi-VGA adapter, VGA to 4 BNC RGBS cable (RGBHV also works if your input takes it or you have BNC T-connector).
You're right about the resolution being widescreen. There's a 16:9 button on my monitor that shrinks the picture and I can adjust the horizontal scan width in Emudrive resolution program to nearly fill up the width until the monitor acts up. One could also do the same with the monitor's H settings for perfect proportions. Regardless, I don't bother with it. I just play 4:3 knowing the visuals are slightly skewed because I don't wanna alter my display settings (both PC and monitor are primarily for regular 4:3 240p). That may seem blasphemous but it's really unnoticeable unless you're doing A/B comparisons.
You're right about the resolution being widescreen. There's a 16:9 button on my monitor that shrinks the picture and I can adjust the horizontal scan width in Emudrive resolution program to nearly fill up the width until the monitor acts up. One could also do the same with the monitor's H settings for perfect proportions. Regardless, I don't bother with it. I just play 4:3 knowing the visuals are slightly skewed because I don't wanna alter my display settings (both PC and monitor are primarily for regular 4:3 240p). That may seem blasphemous but it's really unnoticeable unless you're doing A/B comparisons.
Sixfortyfive
He who pursues two rabbits gets two rabbits.
What region is the Saturn from? NTSC or PAL?
A PAL Saturn can only use luma or composite video for sync. (Luma is the better of the two.)
An NTSC Saturn can use CSYNC, luma, or composite video. (CSYNC is ideal.)
In either case, you'd want the Euro format (not JP-21).
Ugh, double post.
A lot.
1. You can scan double with the PEXHDCAP so 240p games can be turned into 640x480. Useful for youtube when it comes to upscaling to 960x720 and 60 FPS.
2. It has de-interlacing options, which is useful for PS2 games since most have interlacing. I personally like the Bob option the most.
3. You may get jailbars with SNES and Genesis games using RGB. If so, increasing the brightness to max using AmaRecTV(aka best capture software ever) gets rid of them completely.
4. While the software it comes with isn't bad, AmaRecTV is just so much better to use to see the full potential of the PEXHDCAP, along with any other capture card for that matter.
speedlolita
Member
With the JP Saturn I buy, I swap that c-sync pin for 9V so that an official PAL RGB cable functions properly.
Should really swap c-video with c-sync after that but largely c-video is fine for sync IMO.
Shadow Hog
Member
Finally got the SCART to component transcoder for use on my CRT. That is one sharp image! ...but it seems very, very subtly cyan-tinted. Not sure if that's the TV's fault, the cables' fault, the transcoder's fault, or what. Gonna have to experiment, there. I swear my Wii wasn't discolored like that when I plugged it in earlier...
The screen is set to Warm color temperature and the tint is dead-center, for the record.
The screen is set to Warm color temperature and the tint is dead-center, for the record.
The SCART to component transcoder is probably the one doing that.
It's still recommended to open it up and mess around with the pots, yeah? It's definitely not my area of expertise but sounds like it's necessary to get the colours how you want.
Thanks for the info!
Do you guys think you can help me connecting my computer to a Scart TV? The computer is an Asus EB1037, which has both Intel and Nvidia in it, but it's built like a laptop, which I think means the Intel chipset actually deals with the output regardless of which card computes the picture.
But first things first, where can I find a working cable? Wolfsoft.de sells some but freaking 25 shipping to France, which hasn't been in Germany for a while.
But first things first, where can I find a working cable? Wolfsoft.de sells some but freaking 25 shipping to France, which hasn't been in Germany for a while.
Yes, definitely. I had to when I had mine last year.
Are you trying to do what I did with a 15Khz/240p display? See my last post addressed to you on this page. Your PC needs to have the right Radeon video card and older OS, otherwise the computer can't go down to 240p resolutions. I use this cable to connect PC to a scart switchbox:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-TO-SCAR...ONECTOR-for-JAMMA-ARCADE-system-/141494166641
Yes, apparently soft15khz can use more video cards, I just can't find information related to Nvidia Optimus (I think this is what I have). And I can't use your cable, I don't have a molex connector available.
I contacted the seller before I bought it and he told me you don't need the molex. He had a buyer who bought the cable for a similar PVM, no problems, and said I could return if it didn't work out. I *believe* the molex is only for powering an arcade monitor without its own PSU. I may be wrong on that,I just know it has no effect on my setup.
Soft15Khz seems like a PITA to get working on one's hardware compared to CRT Emudriver. Then you have to manually create all the profiles to properly run MAME games. Dozens of different resolutions. Emudriver + Groovy MAME and everything instantly works perfectly. But if Soft is your only option and you don't care for MAME I guess go ahead.
Does anyone know the resolution of Axiom Verge? I may put up screens tonight.
Soft15Khz seems like a PITA to get working on one's hardware compared to CRT Emudriver. Then you have to manually create all the profiles to properly run MAME games. Dozens of different resolutions. Emudriver + Groovy MAME and everything instantly works perfectly. But if Soft is your only option and you don't care for MAME I guess go ahead.
Does anyone know the resolution of Axiom Verge? I may put up screens tonight.
480x270
You've got me interested in CRT Emudriver. I have an old ATI card that should be compatible and a CRT with component inputs. I would just need to get one of those 7-pin connector -> component cables, assuming CRT Emudriver works on that output.
I wonder if 480x270 will be a problem. That at least explains why it was off when I was first trying this. I was only testing 240p resolutions.
Me too. I already had Nvidia GTX in my new PC, plus Radeon 7750 and 5570 spare cards for the older PC I was using for MAME. But it is not so bad. The necessary Radeon 4xxx cards are really cheap on eBay, tons for $10-20. A much weaker Arcade VGA card will cost you $90.
Me too. I already had Nvidia GTX in my new PC, plus Radeon 7750 and 5570 spare cards for the older PC I was using for MAME. But it is not so bad. The necessary Radeon 4xxx cards are really cheap on eBay, tons for $10-20. A much weaker Arcade VGA card will cost you $90.
geniusbits
Member
I know you mentioned this earlier in the thread but don't remember seeing instructions. I have been using the transcoder and my buddy didn't like the colors so we switched the TV to neutral and then he was happier with it. I would like to mess around with the colors in neutral and warm colors though, what's a safe way to mess with the innerds of this thing?
P.S. - with the transcoder you need male to male audio and component video cables, what is a very high quality brand for male to male cables?
blast processed
Member
So...I was given a 36" Sony Vega that weighs, lol, 223lbs. My question is, if I already have a 20" flat crt, are these TVs really that great? There isn't a ton of connectors in the back, s-video, 1 rgb & two component, which is what I have now. Getting this in my basement will be a bitch, wondering if it's worth the trouble.
You can put the smaller one in Tate mode, so yes.
RadarScope1
Member
Damn. That's a monster. The fucking IMAX of retro gaming, though!
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