Support NeoGAF

[dcx4610]

That is because you are used to seeing white with blue and now that has become your standard definition of white. You are trying to find a compromise between accurate colors and what your mind is telling you is accurate based on poorly calibrated TV's. Real white has yellow in it. Its not meant to look like how you are used to it looking. Having accurate whites is the first step in making sure all colors look accurate as well. If your whites are off everything will be off.

The reason you are used to this is because TV manufacturers made their TV's err on the blue side because it made the picture look more "bright". Introducing blue into picture adds a false brightness. Manufacturers used this to make their TV's stand out in extremely well lit store showrooms. Its why a lot of TVs would come out of the box on "standard" or "natural" settings rather than movie mode. As a result many many people now think inaccurate colors are correct. You aren't the only one. It took me awhile to get used to Warm2 back when HDTV's were first coming out and I started to care about calibration.

Skin tones are also inaccurate. You are shifting the grey scale toward the blue side of the spectrum which makes skin tones more red then they should be. Warm 2 makes them more natural and "yellow".

Furthermore you are making the assumption that video game developers for some reason aren't using professionally calibrated equipment (which would be at the 6500k standard that Warm2 is closest to).

Good write up. Here's where I'm a little confused. Since 1996, the standard for computer monitors, printers and the internet is sRGB. From what I can tell, it's still D6500k but if you look at the RGB values, it's 100 red, 100 green, 100 blue. Isn't "Standard" mode doing the same thing with RGB on the Samsung? With my PC monitor and other devices set to sRGB it doesn't look anywhere near as warm as Warm 2 and is closer to Warm 1 or Standard.

Just trying to get to the bottom of this. I'm a stickler for settings.

 

[noomi]

I believe "Auto" on PS4 defaults to a limited, 16-235 color range. That's why "Low" HBL setting looks good when PS4 is in Auto.

HBL "Auto" also seems to default to 16-235. That's why I was noticing that both Low and Auto HBL looked good when the PS4 was set to Auto.

I can definitely say that Full/Normal, Limited/Low, and Limited/Auto all look identical. Same color depth and vibrancy.

I don't have screenshots, but it was the literal definition of crushed blacks when I did Full/Low. A brown cabinet with details in COD:MW became pure black, with no detail. Same with Tomb Raider. A dark Lara, where I was still able to make out shirt wrinkles and fabric, became a pitch-black silhouette. This is how I deduced what the settings mean.



The bolded part makes perfect sense, and all of these findings reflect my own. In "Auto," the PS4 defaults to 16-235 (because movies and shows). That means the darkest part of your game's picture (what the game maker wants to look "pure black") is reported as 16. Your TV, set to Normal (0-255), reads that 16 value as dark grey instead. Across the board, as a result, the picture gets significantly washed out. But when your settings are Auto/Low, the TV's 16-235 matches what PS4 is reporting.

That's why Auto/Low and Full/Normal look near-identical. I took two pictures on my phone and compared them, but it wasn't really necessary -- these aren't subtle differences we're talking about. The wash-out on one end or the crushed blacks on the other are seriously obvious.

PS4 Full, HBL Normal is the theoretical best setting for gaming -- matched color ranges, both set to 0-255, with 36 extra gradations of brightness beyond 16-235. Not every TV supports 0-255, but this one does, so anything less is cutting yourself at the ankles.

I can 100% confirm this! RGB Range set to Auto on the PS4 Pro defaults to Limited. So setting Auto on both the TV and the PS4 would result in a proper match.

Here is what I want to know however.... I would prefer to run Full on both the PS4 and the KS8000 (why not? we are capable with this TV)
Would it make sense to keep the TV HBL at Auto, and the PS4 at Full? Will the TV recognize that the PS4 is set to Full and switch it appropriately?

Ugh... so annoying.. probably just better off keeping everything an Auto.

 

[Pantz]

I played around with the HBL settings and definitely found that if my PS4 was set to Auto and the HBL to Normal, the picture looked very washed out. I could somewhat counteract that by changing the Color Space to Native.

PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Good, but blacks are somewhat crushed
PS4 Auto + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Unrealistically vibrant
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = No more crushed blacks, but terribly washed out image.
PS4 Auto + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = OK, but colors are a bit too bright and image is still washed out.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Native = Colors are unrealistically vibrant, and blacks are crushed. I think I might like this mode for cartoons though.
PS4 Full + HBL Auto + Color Space Auto = Realistic colors, but crushed blacks.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Native = Good, but bright colors unrealistically pop out.
PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto = Realistic looking colors, and no crushed blacks. Definitely the best setting for games with realistic graphics.

So should the PS4 always be set to PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto? For both SDR and HDR? Even when watching movies?

 

[Haines]

PS4 Full, HBL Normal is the theoretical best setting for gaming -- matched color ranges, both set to 0-255, with 36 extra gradations of brightness beyond 16-235. Not every TV supports 0-255, but this one does, so anything less is cutting yourself at the ankles.

Anyone else care to try this and vouch for these guys? I can't or I would.

If so I'll update the OP. Want to try and make sure it has the correct settings for people.

Also do you just leave black levels on auto for movie mode?

 

[noomi]

So should the PS4 always be set to PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto? For both SDR and HDR? Even when watching movies?

This is what I would like to know as well, but keep in mind that when a HDR enabled game in being played HBL on the TV is greyed out because it needs to be set to limited...and if the PS4 is set to RGB Range Full I am not sure if it will correctly change to Limited to match the TV.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

So should the PS4 always be set to PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto? For both SDR and HDR? Even when watching movies?

This is what I would like to know as well, but keep in mind that when a HDR enabled game in being played HBL on the TV is greyed out because it needs to be set to limited...and if the PS4 is set to RGB Range Full I am not sure if it will correctly change to Limited to match the TV.

When you switch to HDR, the resolution changes from 2160p - RGB to 2160p - YUV420. This is automatic and the reason your screen goes black momentarily, like when you change resolutions on PC. As others have said, 4K + RGB + HDR is not possible with current HDMI specs. That's why the 2160p - YUV420 resolution is there.

When this happens, the console is no longer an "RGB source," regardless of whether you've set RGB to Full or Limited, and the HBL setting no longer matters.

Essentially, in HDR, it's not a thing we even need to think about.

As for watching movies, which are formatted in 16-235, Full/Normal will actually be less accurate than Limited/Low or Limited/Auto. Again, the movie will report a value of 16 intending to look pure black, but your console and TV will interpret it as dark grey because at 0-255, the floor is lower. If I'm correct, it's a catch-22 of sorts. Auto/Auto works and will give you universal simplicity without the need to change settings, but technically, Full/Normal is marginally better for gaming.

With that in mind, I'm watching my Netflix, YouTube, Hulu, etc. on the TV source, not PS4, so I can have a second set of settings. But for those who want to watch movies on the game console, you're definitely meant to use Auto/Auto -- it's just that Full/Normal will eke out a bit more accuracy for games, which are developed in a PC environment.

 

[noomi]

When you switch to HDR, the resolution changes from 2160p - RGB to 2160p - YUV420. This is automatic and the reason your screen goes black momentarily, like when you change resolutions on PC.

When this happens, the console is no longer an "RGB source," regardless of whether you've set RGB to Full or Limited, and the HBL setting no longer matters.

Essentially, in HDR, it's not a thing we even need to think about.

Holy hell, after two days of trying different options and asking this question around different forums I finally have the answer I was looking for! Now that I know that RGB Range isn't even a factor when you are playing HDR games I feel safe knowing that I can set my TV and PS4Pro to Full!

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

As for watching movies, which are formatted in 16-235, Full/Normal will actually be less accurate than Limited/Low or Limited/Auto. Again, the movie will report a value of 16 intending to look pure black, but your console and TV will interpret it as dark grey because at 0-255, the floor is lower. If I'm correct, it's a catch-22 of sorts. Auto/Auto works and will give you universal simplicity without the need to change settings, but technically, Full/Normal is marginally better for gaming.

With that in mind, I'm watching my Netflix, YouTube, Hulu, etc. on the TV source, not PS4, so I can have a second set of settings. But for those who want to watch movies on the game console, you're definitely meant to use Auto/Auto -- it's just that Full/Normal will eke out a bit more accuracy for games, which are developed in a PC environment.

Same as you. I do not watch any movies, netflix or any media on my Playstation 4, I strictly use it for gaming and nothing else. So I feel completely safe changing HBL to Full and RGB Range to Full as well.

Any media I watch, goes through the netflix/amazon/youtube tv app or my 4k blu-ray player.

 

[Joei]

I bought this tv the other day and hooked it up yesterday and so far my wife and I haven't been very impressed. I had a Plasma up here so I figured there's would be some downgrade in quality, but yikes. (I moved the Plasma downstairs where I needed a new tv). I used rtngs.com settings and those look pretty bad. I had to move contrast down to 90 and added sharp to 10. The whites were absolutely atrocious; they were incredibly crushed. I also had to go to warm 1 (which is what I have my plasma at cause I can't handle warm 2). The color was incredibly grainy, though I adjusted some settings and that seems to have gone away a little. And looking at a ball in motion, like in every sport I turned it to, was incredibly hard and there seems to be a weird effect with stuff in motion. And it's not even fast motion, it could be a group of people in a room with some moving around and there's to be a weird, I don't know, stutter or something.

For auto motion, I have blur at 7, and judder and LED clear motion off. Color is native. Digital clean is off, film auto1. This looks a little better than my rtings.com settings, but I think it could look a little better. Oh, and I haven't had any time to check out any video games, I was going to get a Pro today but now I don't know.

Any suggestions?

 

[Haines]

Ok, well im convinced. Ill add this to op.

Just to be clear what black level do you use for the tv netflix, or would upyou use on an xbox 1s that someone uses for UHDs?


I also find motion in normal content has a wierd stutter. Someone explained it that frames are hanging due to the tech. I just live with it. Not sure if automotion helps or not.

 

[Pantz]

When you switch to HDR, the resolution changes from 2160p - RGB to 2160p - YUV420. This is automatic and the reason your screen goes black momentarily, like when you change resolutions on PC. As others have said, 4K + RGB + HDR is not possible with current HDMI specs. That's why the 2160p - YUV420 resolution is there.

When this happens, the console is no longer an "RGB source," regardless of whether you've set RGB to Full or Limited, and the HBL setting no longer matters.

Essentially, in HDR, it's not a thing we even need to think about.

As for watching movies, which are formatted in 16-235, Full/Normal will actually be less accurate than Limited/Low or Limited/Auto. Again, the movie will report a value of 16 intending to look pure black, but your console and TV will interpret it as dark grey because at 0-255, the floor is lower. If I'm correct, it's a catch-22 of sorts. Auto/Auto works and will give you universal simplicity without the need to change settings, but technically, Full/Normal is marginally better for gaming.

With that in mind, I'm watching my Netflix, YouTube, Hulu, etc. on the TV source, not PS4, so I can have a second set of settings. But for those who want to watch movies on the game console, you're definitely meant to use Auto/Auto -- it's just that Full/Normal will eke out a bit more accuracy for games, which are developed in a PC environment.

Thanks, that's very helpful. Guess i'll have to switch each time when watching movies or playing games but it only takes 10 seconds.

 

[Dusktildawn48]

I get a lot of crushed blacks on this tv but can't figure out how to fix it.

 

[Haines]

I get a lot of crushed blacks on this tv but can't figure out how to fix it.

If you have an xbox try its calibration.

 

[SilverArrow20XX]

So should the PS4 always be set to PS4 Full + HBL Normal + Color Space Auto? For both SDR and HDR? Even when watching movies?

I haven't tested HDR yet, but Rtings recommends changing Color Space to Native for HDR, so I'm going to try that and see how it looks when I get Final Fantasy XV. I think Native color can also look better for more cartoony content that benefits from more vibrant colors.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

Holy hell, after two days of trying different options and asking this question around different forums I finally have the answer I was looking for! Now that I know that RGB Range isn't even a factor when you are playing HDR games I feel safe knowing that I can set my TV and PS4Pro to Full!

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

Haha, I'm super glad. YVW!

Feels like a good time to ask what separates a Junior Member from true Member?

Ok, well im convinced. Ill add this to op.

Just to be clear what black level do you use for the tv netflix, or would upyou use on an xbox 1s that someone uses for UHDs?

Because shows and movies are formatted in 16-235, both Low and Auto would work.

 

[ItsTheNew]

Since no one answered this last time I'll ask again:


My questions are:
1: is the HDR mode still bugged in gaming mode?
2: Does game mode decrease lag by an appreciable amount?
3: Does the TV save separate settings for tv apps? Or Does it use the last known inputs settings?
4: I have a gtx 1070 and it technically supports HDR. Should I use it or tv apps for streaming HDR content?

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

Since no one answered this last time I'll ask again:


My questions are:
1: is the HDR mode still bugged in gaming mode?
2: Does game mode decrease lag by an appreciable amount?
3: Does the TV save separate settings for tv apps? Or Does it use the last known inputs settings?
4: I have a gtx 1070 and it technically supports HDR. Should I use it or tv apps for streaming HDR content?

1. Yes. Game Mode doesn't automatically change Backlight to 20 when HDR content comes on.
2: Yes; significantly, in fact. Eurogamer review mentioned that before Game Mode, the input lag was too high to recommend the TV. Now it's one of the best.
3. Last-known input. You're still technically on the "HDMI1" input, or the "TV" input, wherever you were when you entered the app.
4. idk, but I feel like the simplicity of TV apps would do you better.

 

[Haines]

One thing i will mention silver, is that you say it switches to 420 but when i play something like uncharted it actiually switches to 422. Though from what ive tried to learn, ive heard this is ok

 

[DreadfulOmen]

I haven't tested HDR yet, but Rtings recommends changing Color Space to Native for HDR, so I'm going to try that and see how it looks when I get Final Fantasy XV. I think Native color can also look better for more cartoony content that benefits from more vibrant colors.

If your tv has the lastest update, you shouldn't need to change it to native. It should be set to auto. It was a previous bug in an earlier firmware that didnt properly change the color space. It's fixed now.

 

[dragonzdogma]

2: Yes; significantly, in fact. Eurogamer review mentioned that before Game Mode, the .

Isn't game mode simply a mode where it limits the user from enabling settings that would cause the TV to have more input lag?

 

[shakey]

I haven't tested HDR yet, but Rtings recommends changing Color Space to Native for HDR, so I'm going to try that and see how it looks when I get Final Fantasy XV. I think Native color can also look better for more cartoony content that benefits from more vibrant colors.

That is an outdated review. When they did that review, it was correct, as Native was producing the right value, where as Auto wasn't. But, now that Samsung has thrown a few updates since then, they have fixed the issue of Auto not working. So now it's best to just leave it at Auto, unless you professionally calibrate it.

 

[SuperEpicMan]

I joined the KS7000/8000 club today, it should be getting delivered tomorrow

 

[noomi]

Ran home during lunch to test this out! haha!

I can 100% fully confirm that setting both the HDMI Black Level on the KS8000 to Normal and the RGB Range on the PS4Pro to Full is the absolute best setting for gaming. You can also set Color Space to Auto.

Note that if you set your HDMI Black Level on the TV to Auto, I can also confirm that it picks up the RGB Range setting from the PS4Pro and sets it properly.

When an HDR game kicks in, changing RGB Range and HDMI Black Level will do absolutely nothing, no screen flicker... nothing. It doesn't matter at that point.

Keep in mind that these settings are for gaming only. If you are watching netflix/blurays/amazon/videos/movies....etc on your PS4Pro you want to set HDMI Black Level on the TV to Low or Auto, and the PS4Pro to Limited or Auto.

*wipes hands clean*

The TV is now setup exactly how I want it.

Haines you can update the op with Kyles information, it is absolutely correct!

Haha, I'm super glad. YVW!

Feels like a good time to ask what separates a Junior Member from true Member?



Because shows and movies are formatted in 16-235, both Low and Auto would work.

I believe after 300 posts you become a Member

 

[VicViper]

I'm looking at pairing it with the receiver below, and just wanted to check if anyone sees any issue with using it with this TV, and with passing through 4K/HDR?

SONY STRDN860

This particular model does not seem to support HDR pass-through (despite being advertised as "Ultra HD"-compliant).

Theoretically, a firmware update should enable proper HDR pass-through, as many users are requesting here:

http://community.sony.com/t5/Home-T...pass-through-via-HDMI-2-0a-update/td-p/600430

 

[-griffy-]

Bit the bullet, ordered the 60" from Costco. Delivery next Thursday. I'm excited!

 

[quickwhips]

wow thats lower than EPP deal. Where did you buy it from?

Sunny perks through Samsung.com and used ebates and got 40 dollars back.

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

Isn't game mode simply a mode where it limits the user from enabling settings that would cause the TV to have more input lag?

Yeah, some stuff like Film Mode gets greyed out, but it also disables some unseen/uncustomizable processing effects that introduce input lag.

 

[DreadfulOmen]

I get a lot of crushed blacks on this tv but can't figure out how to fix it.

Im not sure what its called but you can find a picture on the net, that has a bunch of boxes on a black screen and you make some changes on your tv while the image is displayed.

Edit: found it, try this and see if this is the problem.http://www.nicolaspeople.com/ch3rokeesblog/?p=16

Some extra info here about rgb full/limited.
http://referencehometheater.com/2014/commentary/rgb-full-vs-limited/

 

[DreadfulOmen]

Sounds really good. I heard that this tv can suffer from judder when watching 24fps content. Do you think this is a big downside? I would only use this tv for gaming and watching netflix, I don't watch blu-rays, and I always play/watch stuff in a well lit room. I'd rather not break the bank on a new tv, and a KS8000 is a 1000 euro more expensive here.

At this point I mostly just want a bigger tv (my current one is 32 inch), I'm not sure how much I'd use HDR outside of a couple of games that are out now, if the difference is worth it I would have no problem saving a little longer, but this set looks really attractive.

Do you notice judder on your current 32 tv? If not, than you most likely wont notice it on the ku model.

 

[WonkyPanda]

Im not sure what its called but you can find a picture on the net, that has a bunch of boxes on a black screen and you make some changes on your tv while the image is displayed.

Edit: found it, try this and see if this is the problem.http://www.nicolaspeople.com/ch3rokeesblog/?p=16

Some extra info here about rgb full/limited.
http://referencehometheater.com/2014/commentary/rgb-full-vs-limited/

Yeah, 9 out of 10 times, the reason you'll be getting crushed blacks is because your RGB settings are set incorrectly (e.g. set to Full).

 

[Veitsev]

Good write up. Here's where I'm a little confused. Since 1996, the standard for computer monitors, printers and the internet is sRGB. From what I can tell, it's still D6500k but if you look at the RGB values, it's 100 red, 100 green, 100 blue. Isn't "Standard" mode doing the same thing with RGB on the Samsung? With my PC monitor and other devices set to sRGB it doesn't look anywhere near as warm as Warm 2 and is closer to Warm 1 or Standard.

Just trying to get to the bottom of this. I'm a stickler for settings.

You are correct that sRgb is @ 6500k. You can't really compare your pc monitor to this tv though and expect things to be the same. The two will have different internal values for color and contrast. The TV also far more specific color settings. Keep in mind that the reason warm 2 is chosen is that it is closest to the standard not because it is exactly the standard. In order to get things perfect you would need a professional calibration. This would very likely mean changing the 2 and 10 point color settings in your TV and the ideal will differ between individual sets of the same model.

 

[DreadfulOmen]

Yeah, 9 out of 10 times, the reason you'll be getting crushed blacks is because your RGB settings are set incorrectly (e.g. set to Full).

People used to do this all the time on the ps3. They thought they were getting a better picture, but they were actually losing detail.

 

[WonkyPanda]

People used to do this all the time on the ps3. They thought they were getting a better picture, but they were actually losing detail.

It's funny because I think most people would agree the image looks better initially because the colors "pop" more. Unfortunately, it's because the contrast is technically better to the point where you'll lose detail.

Still waiting on Samsung to ship my KS8000, but sort of looking forward to getting into the calibration game. I remember obsessing over it for my VT60, but there is far more technicality here with HDR. Maybe I am actually dreading it...

 

[KyleOnTheRun]

It's funny because I think most people would agree the image looks better initially because the colors "pop" more. Unfortunately, it's because the contrast is technically better to the point where you'll lose detail.

So much truth here. It's what first caused me to think Full/Low was correct -- colors do appear more vibrant. The fires and sunlight in Tomb Raider felt eye-searing.

But then I loaded up Modern Warfare Remastered. In the first room of training, there's a cabinet on the right that was just bathed in black. I couldn't see anything except a pitch black silhouette, and pitch black shadow around it. It just looked wrong. Correcting my settings caused me to realize: the cabinet is actually dark brown! And, wow, I can see the hinges and door knob, and the ground around it!

 

[DreadfulOmen]

It's funny because I think most people would agree the image looks better initially because the colors "pop" more. Unfortunately, it's because the contrast is technically better to the point where you'll lose detail.

Still waiting on Samsung to ship my KS8000, but sort of looking forward to getting into the calibration game. I remember obsessing over it for my VT60, but there is far more technicality here with HDR. Maybe I am actually dreading it...

I think we will keep our VT plasma until it dies. That is the only TV that has not been replaced in our house.

 

[Goose_Se7en]

People used to do this all the time on the ps3. They thought they were getting a better picture, but they were actually losing detail.

Yup there's a "test" folks would do, or I did back in the day. I would use Warhawk as a barometer whether my tv supported RGB or not.

 

[DreadfulOmen]

So much truth here. It's what first caused me to think Full/Low was correct -- colors do appear more vibrant. The fires and sunlight in Tomb Raider felt eye-searing.

But then I loaded up Modern Warfare Remastered. In the first room of training, there's a cabinet on the right that was just bathed in black. I couldn't see anything except a pitch black silhouette, and pitch black shadow around it. It just looked wrong. Correcting my settings caused me to realize: the cabinet is actually dark brown! And, wow, I can see the hinges and door knob, and the ground around it!

Lol. It reminds me of when a friend of mine had his tv set to DC on high with the vivid mode. He was like, damn look at these amazing colors, then when he realized a few days later that grass isnt supposed to be neon green.

 

[WonkyPanda]

I think we will keep our VT plasma until it dies. That is the only TV that has not been replaced in our house.

I'm 99% convinced I am still going to prefer watching movies on my VT over the KS8000. The VT is just a freaking beast. The blacks, colors, motion is just phenomenal.

 

[Goose_Se7en]

Lol. It reminds me of when a friend of mine had his tv set to DC on high with the vivid mode. He was like, damn look at these amazing colors, then when he realized a few days later that grass isnt supposed to be neon green.

Hahaha.

 

[noomi]

Just FYI

There is a new firmware 1152 available on the Korean Samsung website (not in the US yet). It adds HDR functionality to youtube

Don't think there is any fix for HDR switching over in game mode yet.

 

[III-V]

Ran home during lunch to test this out! haha!

I can 100% fully confirm that setting both the HDMI Black Level on the KS8000 to Normal and the RGB Range on the PS4Pro to Full is the absolute best setting for gaming. You can also set Color Space to Auto.

Note that if you set your HDMI Black Level on the TV to Auto, I can also confirm that it picks up the RGB Range setting from the PS4Pro and sets it properly.

When an HDR game kicks in, changing RGB Range and HDMI Black Level will do absolutely nothing, no screen flicker... nothing. It doesn't matter at that point.

Keep in mind that these settings are for gaming only. If you are watching netflix/blurays/amazon/videos/movies....etc on your PS4Pro you want to set HDMI Black Level on the TV to Low or Auto, and the PS4Pro to Limited or Auto

Pro tip:

set the PS4 Pro video output settings and your TV set RGB (video) range to auto for the exact same result.

Standard Pro game will output 2160p 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full) and HDR game will be YUV 422 or 420 limited, 10 or 12 bits.

This only has to be as difficult as we want it to be.

 

[TetraGenesis]

Feels like a good time to ask what separates a Junior Member from true Member?

I believe after 300 posts you become a Member

300 posts and three months.

 

[ViciousDS]

Pro tip:

set the PS4 Pro video output settings and your TV set RGB (video) range to auto for the exact same result.

Standard Pro game will output 2160p 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full) and HDR game will be YUV 422 or 420 limited, 10 or 12 bits.

This only has to be as difficult as we want it to be.

so RGB is in Chroma....that's why it feels like my X800D in terms of input lag and HDR games are so much better feeling to play.

Maybe I'll just keep it in YUV 4:2:2, I'd rather have the input lag decrease




Also so we want


Full/Normal on the Pro


And just use the TV for media playing.....got it

or

set it to auto/auto for apps on the console XD

 

[III-V]

so RGB is in Chroma....that's why it feels like my X800D in terms of input lag and HDR games are so much better feeling to play.

Maybe I'll just keep it in YUV 4:2:2, I'd rather have the input lag decrease




Also so we want


Full/Normal on the Pro


And just use the TV for media playing.....got it

or

set it to auto/auto for apps on the console XD

Well, there is no way to force YUV4:2:2, but you can force YUV4:2:0.

 

[ViciousDS]

Well, there is no way to force YUV4:2:2, but you can force YUV4:2:0.

fine with me lol

 

[Haines]

So looks like insurance will replace the tv aside from a 1000 deductible.

And my credit card purchased assurance will cover the 1000 it costs me. So hopefully my tv will be replaced free of charge if everything goes right.

 

[noomi]

Pro tip:

set the PS4 Pro video output settings and your TV set RGB (video) range to auto for the exact same result.

Standard Pro game will output 2160p 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full) and HDR game will be YUV 422 or 420 limited, 10 or 12 bits.

This only has to be as difficult as we want it to be.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Are you saying to set the RGB Range on the PS4 to Auto, and do the same with my TV? I tried this, but when the PS4 RGB Range is set to Auto it will always default to Limited, which is not what I want. I'd rather force it both my TV and PS4 to use Full since it results in a slightly better picture during gaming.

If you are talking about the resolution setting on the PS4, I have this set to Automatic. This way when I am playing a non-HDR game the setting is set to RGB, and when I am playing an HDR game the setting changes over to YUV, which is exactly what I want it to do

so RGB is in Chroma....that's why it feels like my X800D in terms of input lag and HDR games are so much better feeling to play.

Maybe I'll just keep it in YUV 4:2:2, I'd rather have the input lag decrease




Also so we want


Full/Normal on the Pro


And just use the TV for media playing.....got it

or

set it to auto/auto for apps on the console XD

You got it!

 

[Haines]

Pro tip:

set the PS4 Pro video output settings and your TV set RGB (video) range to auto for the exact same result.

Standard Pro game will output 2160p 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full) and HDR game will be YUV 422 or 420 limited, 10 or 12 bits.

This only has to be as difficult as we want it to be.

I belive they were claiming ps4 on auto only puts in limited and not full. Not entirely sure. I tried to update the OP. Hopefully it's right. I can't test it myself to see.

Can you tell me the setting name and the exact setting word.

RGB = Full or whatever it is

 

[WonkyPanda]

Pro tip:

set the PS4 Pro video output settings and your TV set RGB (video) range to auto for the exact same result.

Standard Pro game will output 2160p 8-bit RGB 4:4:4 (full) and HDR game will be YUV 422 or 420 limited, 10 or 12 bits.

This only has to be as difficult as we want it to be.

This is good to know. I think, for me at least, I have a lot of distrust for "auto" features, but it seems the KS and PS4 Pro speak well enough to each other that you'll get the right RGB range (specifically, getting YUV for HDR content and RGB for non-HDR).

 

[haikira]

This particular model does not seem to support HDR pass-through (despite being advertised as "Ultra HD"-compliant).

Theoretically, a firmware update should enable proper HDR pass-through, as many users are requesting here:

http://community.sony.com/t5/Home-T...pass-through-via-HDMI-2-0a-update/td-p/600430

I'm looking at this one now: Yamaha RX-V581 review

The review states it can pass through HDR.

Anyone see any reason why I shouldn't pair this TV with it?

Thanks in advance.

 

[noomi]

I'm a bit curious about input lag with the KS8000. I'm looking at the rtings review that has different modes tested for input lag.

I don't really understand what all these different modes mean, or which ones the PS4Pro uses... maybe someone can elaborate .

Out of these ^^ which ones would the PS4Pro ever use?

1080p @ 60hz - for regular games
4k @ 60Hz - for native 4k games

what about HDR, and what about games that uses resolutions between 1080p - 4K. Some use 1400p, some 1800p...etc