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Dirt Rally |OT| Dont Cut, Be Brave
- Thread starter Watevaman
- Start date
As a controller user, I have adjusted to the in car (driver seat) view, I think it really helps to see the wheel turning to keep you from over reacting with the analog sticks. I do move my seat up right until I can barely see my fingers.
I find it quite OK, there are two schools of thought for adjusting the in game sensitivity, some people set it to 100, and others (like me) set it down to 30ish.
I think low helps remove the twitchy-ness, and use the cockpit view, being able to see the wheel turn gives you a point of reference as well.
I find it quite OK, there are two schools of thought for adjusting the in game sensitivity, some people set it to 100, and others (like me) set it down to 30ish.
I think low helps remove the twitchy-ness, and use the cockpit view, being able to see the wheel turn gives you a point of reference as well.
GAFmeansLIFE
Member
This is what happens when I play waaaaay too late and desperately need sleep:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx9GpT3kbjQ&nohtml5=False
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqzfZ4eB8l8&nohtml5=False
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zx9GpT3kbjQ&nohtml5=False
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqzfZ4eB8l8&nohtml5=False
It's fine, obviously better with a wheel, but perfectly serviceable with a pad.
It's got a steep learning curve though, so don't blame the controls when you find yourself struggling to start with.
Only cam I use is bumper cam.
I haven't seen a return to default option anywhere. I don't even know what they are anymore.
gingerbeardman
Member
On PC you select a controller profile and it loads in those defaults.
That's what I'm using (although with a DS3 pad) and it's not too bad at all.
Really need something more powerful to play it on, so I can see it look as good as it should do.
I got my league times in tonight. I was doing half decent by my
standards until the last event in Germany where I completely spun myself when I got a little too excited exiting with the gas exiting a corner. I didn't bump into anything at all in any of the 4 events nor did I drive in any ditches though so that's progress right??
low
I'm actually finding this game a LOT easier to play with a pad. On my T300Rs, going to lock to lock requires a lot of effort and concentration, whereas on a pad it's much easier. I can also more easily manipulate the handbrake through corners. I'm sure the purists will insist you would be much faster with a steering wheel which is probably true, but I'm having a lot more fun with a pad. Different story for circuit based sims though.
Anyway this game is awesome and I glad I supported it in EA
ShadowOfTheIco
Banned
This game ia too hardcore.
soundscream
Member
I think in any racing game if you get really good with a pad you can be faster then using a wheel because of the lack of effort required. But if you are just ok with a pad you will probably do better with a wheel, because having ffb can help you understand what's going on with the car, and if you drive in real life it can seem more natural.
H3rTz DoNuT
Member
You guys were right, that Fiat is awesome, so much better than Ford or Lancia. I'm too greedy for this game, always happens same way. I have a nice lead, 5-6 seconds but want to make the gap even bigger, I go faster and then I crash, every time same scenario. The worst thing is I'm not learning from my mistakes lol
Silver Arrows
Banned
Took the Renault 5 Turbo for the Weekly Rally, and my god is it a fun car to drive. Really forgiving, quick out of the corner, and an absolute blast in Finland 
Now maximum attack!
....
Sometimes is better just finishing the stage than push harder, if you're not 100% in need to shave off some seconds, is more advisable to be consistent rather than too aggressive.
i set up a league for a buddy and i and in practicing for the daily stage i set the 9th best time in the world for the track and class! there were only 700 times on the leaderboard, but still!!!
of course then i fucked up a bit on my actual run finishing 4 seconds later... i'm beginning to really like that you cant just restart and replay over and over again though.
of course then i fucked up a bit on my actual run finishing 4 seconds later... i'm beginning to really like that you cant just restart and replay over and over again though.
You can go directly to WRC cars if you want and have the money to, or keep using the 60's car until it's fully upgraded; you need to finish in the top 3 to advance to the next category.
the 60's cars suck. yes they are slow and thats helpful for learning, but they control like utter shit. i'd recommend starting with the 70's and the fiat. it can be a little tail happy, but thats preferable to understeer, and should give you a great base to build off of with faster cars.
I'm a few hours in now and I'm not sure I'm making much progress in terms of time, but -and I'm amazed by this- the co-driver is almost starting to make sense sometimes.
At first driving with him there was akin to solving math problems with some asshole yelling random numbers in my ear, whereas now I adjust speed according to what should be coming up. I'm super sucky at judging distances though, usually by braking way too early, or sometimes by blowing past that hairpin and down the mountainside because he told me about it like two seconds ago. That and how variable turns with the same number can be. One stage I get used to a five being possible to take at high speed, only for fives in the next to be much harder and at least to me seem like they're tighter.
At first driving with him there was akin to solving math problems with some asshole yelling random numbers in my ear, whereas now I adjust speed according to what should be coming up. I'm super sucky at judging distances though, usually by braking way too early, or sometimes by blowing past that hairpin and down the mountainside because he told me about it like two seconds ago. That and how variable turns with the same number can be. One stage I get used to a five being possible to take at high speed, only for fives in the next to be much harder and at least to me seem like they're tighter.
H3rTz DoNuT
Member
I just got my early birthday gift from wife, xbox one elite controller and let me tell you guys, what a freaking difference.
I use long left stick with movement set to smooth and two paddles for shifting and it's like a different game now. The long stick with smooth movement makes a huge difference in controlling the car.
So happy she got it for me, I was too cheap to spent $150 for a controller
I use long left stick with movement set to smooth and two paddles for shifting and it's like a different game now. The long stick with smooth movement makes a huge difference in controlling the car.
So happy she got it for me, I was too cheap to spent $150 for a controller
you are probably carrying a lot more speed through them then you realize, but a 5 on asphalt IS tighter than a 5 on lose surfaces too.
I just got my early birthday gift from wife, xbox one elite controller and let me tell you guys, what a freaking difference.
I use long left stick with movement set to smooth and two paddles for shifting and it's like a different game now. The long stick with smooth movement makes a huge difference in controlling the car.
So happy she got it for me, I was too cheap to spent $150 for a controller
never even thought about swapping sticks for a racer... thanks for the idea!
H3rTz DoNuT
Member
Yeah, it gives you more control over the car and it's more precise than short stick. Try to change movement to smooth in controller settings and see if you like it.
edit:
Is there any way to save a reply?
Fahzgoolin
Banned
I also use the elite, but I use the right stick for shifting and paddles on the back for clutch and handbrake.
I have my sensitivity set to 100 and a deadzone of 10 or 15. Works great.
You guys gotta get use to the clutch out, handbrake, clutch in, throttle method for hairpins too. I recommend greece to practice as there are a lot of hairpins on that stage.
I have my sensitivity set to 100 and a deadzone of 10 or 15. Works great.
You guys gotta get use to the clutch out, handbrake, clutch in, throttle method for hairpins too. I recommend greece to practice as there are a lot of hairpins on that stage.
H3rTz DoNuT
Member
I have my clutch set to upper right paddle and gears to left and right lower paddles.
New controller... and I haven't won a single stage in Sweden till now. I know it's not a best time but it's my third time with Fiat, no upgrades and I can see a huge difference already.
New controller... and I haven't won a single stage in Sweden till now. I know it's not a best time but it's my third time with Fiat, no upgrades and I can see a huge difference already.
JohnSpartanLee
Member
Not necessarily better. These three cars are like difficulty levels: Fiat is easy, Lancia is hard and the Escort is insane.
I do best with the Fiat, too, but good drivers will get better times with both the Lancia and the Ford.
Is that Fiat in the same class as the Escort (I assume that's what you're talking about)? Maybe I should just restart my game again from the start, I'm currently in the Escort and struggling with it (but it IS satisfying, so hmmm...).
H3rTz DoNuT
Member
Not too sure about that, I do much better with Escort than with Stratos, I think it's the hardest car to drive from that group. Opel is pretty much same as Escort and with a little work you can make Escort drive like Fiat, so I think it all comes down to the way you setup your car. Fiat requires little to no work to handle well, the rest of the cars will require some work to match Fiat handling and cornering, but you can setup them all to handle well. Still can't figure out the Stratos lol
Ok, I know this is probably a bit of a no brainer, but altering the cars setup can have a huge affect on how comfortable (not necessarily quicker) you can be with a car.
I was struggling on Sweden with the BMW M3, so I went into the setup and tighten a few nuts and bolts, and wow, the difference was night and day, finished the rally and came first by over one minute, mainly because I was able to stay on the track and not keep fighting the rear end..
I was struggling on Sweden with the BMW M3, so I went into the setup and tighten a few nuts and bolts, and wow, the difference was night and day, finished the rally and came first by over one minute, mainly because I was able to stay on the track and not keep fighting the rear end..
DHC-Shannow
Member
So what did you tweak to improve things? All I've done on the setup of the Kadett is lengthen the gear ratios to reduce the torque & wheelspin.
JohnSpartanLee
Member
Yep, the Fiat Abarth. Definitely the easiest to handle out of those three.
Ah okay, I suck at car setups. Constantly crashed in Monaco when I tried the Escort. Someone have a good setup to make it more stable?
Specifically for Sweden.
Diff brake lock to make it easier to instigate oversteer into corners on tight tracks where it's hard to use weight transfer to insigate oversteer, Diff accel lock to reduce oversteer out of corners on slippery tracks, front toe to make car more stable in the straights, increased ride height to stop it spinning if you touch the snow banks.
Man some of that league times are incredible... and the leaders have used Lancia's to get them! Respect.
by the way - rip fence
yeah I was coming in too fast, thought great, a fence, should offload some of the impact, nope crashed right through it, terminal damage.
how does the game handle restarts while in multi stage rally event? can you only restart the entire rally from stage 1? can you restart each separate stage as many times as you want? or is it only between each repair point? i've seen rally games do all 3 of these and wondered what this games method was.
Cheers
Cheers
HueyFreeman
Banned
You can only restart a single stage while you're on it or right after you complete it. The game limits you to 5 or so restarts for a single rally, so you can use them all on a single stage or across multiple stages. Each restart depletes a "No restart" bonus.
You could turn off the UI, that way you have no idea how good or bad you are doing until you cross the line. I also found it easier to understand what my co-driver was telling me and keep focused on the road without all the symbols on screen.
How can I just turn off the checkpoint split time that appears on the screen without turning the whole HUD off?, who ever thought it coming up slap bang in the middle of a screen was a good idea I'll never know.
Very much this!
MMaRsu
Member
Yeah its great!
Make sure to put steering sensitivity on 100 and liniarity on 10, it def helped me play better even with a controller.
MMaRsu
Member
Why not turn the hud off? That shit is only distracting
I use bonnet cam, so I like having the OSD for the rev counter.