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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Stop It

Perfectly able to grasp the inherent value of the fishing game.
knitoe said:
If you BSOD, lower the -offset by 0.010 = increase voltage until you get stable stress test. Then, you should be close to what CPU really needs. Next, increase -offset by 0.005 = decrease voltage, test and repeat.
Well, I just tried another run in IBT, this time 10 passes at High (2GB) settings.

After 7 and a half minutes of burninating, my hottest core topped out at 61degrees, and the thing didn't even flinch. I'm beginning to wonder if I have been going about this all wrong. Of course the system need to be stable at idle for a while before I am happy, but so far so good.

Thanks for the advice knitoe, and to mrklaw, don't be disheartened. All these figures and terms may sound scary at first, but once you read up on it a bit, and more importantly, just get playing with them, you'll soon get want to be rid of the restrictions that "Auto overclocking" provides you.

rocK` said:
Hey guys, could really use your help. Still looking for a top tier mobo for my 2600K, I've seen quite about about the P8P67, but heard some bad stories (outside of the recall issue which DOES NOT BOTHER ME as I won't go outside SATA0, SATA1).

Thoughts??
Well, I'm using an ASRock P67 Extreme 4, which has 3 full size PCI-E slots (And support for CrossfireX and SLI), Really good USB 3 support (And comes with a 2.5" Front bracket with 2 more USB 3 ports) THX support and is a very decent board for the money.
 

knitoe

Member
Stop It said:
Well, I just tried another run in IBT, this time 10 passes at High (2GB) settings.

After 7 and a half minutes of burninating, my hottest core topped out at 61degrees, and the thing didn't even flinch. I'm beginning to wonder if I have been going about this all wrong. Of course the system need to be stable at idle for a while before I am happy, but so far so good.

Thanks for the advice knitoe, and to mrklaw, don't be disheartened. All these figures and terms may sound scary at first, but once you read up on it a bit, and more importantly, just get playing with them, you'll soon get want to be rid of the restrictions that "Auto overclocking" provides you.
At first, I was using all those "extreme" settings too because all the guides tells you to do so, but after spending a few days messing around and testing each settings, I notice most of them aren' needed and only apply to extreme overclocking (4.8GHz or above).
 

sam27368

Banned
Off topic but the knowledge in here is incredible.

Had my PC for a couple months now, absolutely love it.
I'm currently playing through ME2 and I noticed it's quite jaggy, even when I'm forcing the AA through the control panel. I've gone onto forums and they say the only way to truly utilize it is with nHancer, so I've downloaded that and found out it's not compatible with the latest drivers.

Is there a way to get ME2 running with full 16xAA? I'm running GTX570 x2 in Sli.
 

Raide

Member
sam27368 said:
Off topic but the knowledge in here is incredible.

Had my PC for a couple months now, absolutely love it.
I'm currently playing through ME2 and I noticed it's quite jaggy, even when I'm forcing the AA through the control panel. I've gone onto forums and they say the only way to truly utilize it is with nHancer, so I've downloaded that and found out it's not compatible with the latest drivers.

Is there a way to get ME2 running with full 16xAA? I'm running GTX570 x2 in Sli.

You could change to a version of the drivers that works with nHancer. Just as long as the drivers are not too old.
 

Stop It

Perfectly able to grasp the inherent value of the fishing game.
sam27368 said:
Off topic but the knowledge in here is incredible.

Had my PC for a couple months now, absolutely love it.
I'm currently playing through ME2 and I noticed it's quite jaggy, even when I'm forcing the AA through the control panel. I've gone onto forums and they say the only way to truly utilize it is with nHancer, so I've downloaded that and found out it's not compatible with the latest drivers.

Is there a way to get ME2 running with full 16xAA? I'm running GTX570 x2 in Sli.
nHancer is no more, however, a replacement in Nvidia Inspector has emerged.

http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/NVIDIA-Inspector.shtml

Use that to try forcing AA, it also allows you to customise SLI profiles too, which may help you in the long haul. Hopefully it will work for you.
 

outsidah

Member
OK so I'm done putting my rig together (I ordered a SB setup the Sunday before the recall) and I've been having issues which hasn't made it as fun as it could be.

1) OCZ's Vertex 2 came DOA, so I had to pay $10 to ship it back to NewEgg and wait till they get it to get a replacement. I love NewEgg, but this sucks.
2) My ASUS P8P67 Pro board has all kind of stupid bugs. I've been reading up on the HardOCP forums and other places and it seems like no version of the BIOS they have available fixes the problems people are having. The board does quick 2 reboots all the time when starting up, sometimes gets stuck in a bootloop and all kinds of other ANNOYING things. Supposedly an upcoming BIOS revision will fix this but it's annoying that not only is the motherboard being recalled but the BIOS on it is broken as well.

Those are the negatives... other than that the rig flies and so far the very limited gaming and usage I've gotten to do on it is good.
 
Cipherr said:
When I finished my build I went to craigslist and found an IKEA jerker.

Ikea007-1.jpg


These desks have long been discontinued but work perfectly for my setup, the guy was selling two of them. They were both identical. And I love the freaking black and grey set. There are some wooden brighter versions also but I prefer this form. The desk is extremely deep. Like 40 inches in fact. And VERY wide. So much room for all your equipment. And the shelves that it has are amazing to but Im not using all of them.

Most of all its built like a tank. No wobble, no nothing. Solid as a rock.

I dont like the desks with pull out trays. Not enough moving room for me for my mouse. Feels restricted, I need a large wide open space for my keyboard and mouse to lay on. That and I dont like sitting right up on my monitor. Hate being extremely close to the display like that.


That is awesome. I LOVE that desk.
Nice stuff.

I'm gonna give it strong consideration to hunting one of these down when I move into my new place here shortly.
 
Is an IPS monitor really worth it? I'm considering getting this here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260020

My only issue is that about half of my gaming will be done via HDMI-out to my LCD TV. Will the IQ be so drastically different between the two that I won't want to use it anymore? I have the wiress 360 receiver to play games like Batman: AA on the television. I'm just not sure that $560 is worth it when it's only going to make me hate my TV.
 
Just a random question i have, ive noticed the majority of motherboards (at least the affordable ones) these days are micro-ATX, any reason for this change ?
 
Baller said:
Is an IPS monitor really worth it? I'm considering getting this here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260020

My only issue is that about half of my gaming will be done via HDMI-out to my LCD TV. Will the IQ be so drastically different between the two that I won't want to use it anymore? I have the wiress 360 receiver to play games like Batman: AA on the television. I'm just not sure that $560 is worth it when it's only going to make me hate my TV.

I was under the assumption that IPS monitors are not really all that great for gaming in the first place due to response times. Although that montior seems quite low for an IPS with 6 ms response time...
 

outsidah

Member
BoboBrazil said:
Thanks, I wanna get a system with one of the new processors. Where is the best place to buy a prebuilt system or should I just buy the parts and have Microcenter or Fry's build it?

Buy the parts and build it yourself. It's really not that hard.
 
BoboBrazil said:
Thanks, I wanna get a system with one of the new processors. Where is the best place to buy a prebuilt system or should I just buy the parts and have Microcenter or Fry's build it?

Do it yourself. You learn a lot and it's not difficult. I just did it a few weeks ago for the first time.
 

Zzoram

Member
I'm disappointed in graphics card advancements. Looking at benchmarks, the HD6870 or GTX560 are really only double the power of the HD4870 despite being over 2 years newer. I can't justify an upgrade that small for $250.
 
I tried to build an i7 920 system when it came back and I could never get the thing powered on. I'd rather not have to deal with that again.
 
Having the hardest time deciding on a GTX 460 vs a 560..

$50 for a seemingly pretty significant performance increase seems too good to pass up.. but at the same time, my display is only 19"..

So tell me GAF.. buy a 460 now, possibly upgrade in a year or two, or go for the 560 and be set for a while?

Keep in mind that I had originally planned on spending ~ $700 to build my computer (sans monitor) and now it's ballooned up to $900. ;)
 

Zzoram

Member
peppermints said:
Having the hardest time deciding on a GTX 460 vs a 560..

$50 for a seemingly pretty significant performance increase seems too good to pass up.. but at the same time, my display is only 19"..

So tell me GAF.. buy a 460 now, possibly upgrade in a year or two, or go for the 560 and be set for a while?

Keep in mind that I had originally planned on spending ~ $700 to build my computer (sans monitor) and now it's ballooned up to $900. ;)

Nobody sticks to their budget. There is always a bit of inflation/upgrading last minute, it's just a hard pill to swallow for most people to buy parts that are older or not the best.

Personally I'd go for the GTX560. It gives you more futureproofing with no mid-cycle upgrade (in 2 years) hassle, and getting an overpowered GPU for your resolution today just means it'll be correctly powered for your resolution in 2 years.
 

outsidah

Member
Zzoram said:
Nobody sticks to their budget. There is always a bit of inflation/upgrading last minute, it's just a hard pill to swallow for most people to buy parts that are older or not the best.

Personally I'd go for the GTX560. It gives you more futureproofing with no mid-cycle upgrade (in 2 years) hassle, and getting an overpowered GPU for your resolution today just means it'll be correctly powered for your resolution in 2 years.

Agree with you.

The price difference really isn't large enough to NOT buy the 560.
 

knitoe

Member
outsidah said:
OK so I'm done putting my rig together (I ordered a SB setup the Sunday before the recall) and I've been having issues which hasn't made it as fun as it could be.

1) OCZ's Vertex 2 came DOA, so I had to pay $10 to ship it back to NewEgg and wait till they get it to get a replacement. I love NewEgg, but this sucks.
2) My ASUS P8P67 Pro board has all kind of stupid bugs. I've been reading up on the HardOCP forums and other places and it seems like no version of the BIOS they have available fixes the problems people are having. The board does quick 2 reboots all the time when starting up, sometimes gets stuck in a bootloop and all kinds of other ANNOYING things. Supposedly an upcoming BIOS revision will fix this but it's annoying that not only is the motherboard being recalled but the BIOS on it is broken as well.

Those are the negatives... other than that the rig flies and so far the very limited gaming and usage I've gotten to do on it is good.
Possible fixes:
1) Update to 1204 bios.
2) Clear CMOS
3) In bios, go to APM and enable PCie. Let the computer boot into Windows, restart, and then, disable PCie.
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
is there any way to get audio over HDMI on my ATI card, yet still pipe it out of the front headphone socket on the PC? I'd like to use my TV speakers sometimes, and other times I want to use headphones. The PC headphone socket is much more accessible than the TV one.
 
5422040413_738190cb00_b.jpg


Okay, here's my final order. Already have case, CPU, motherboard and hard drive.

Can recommend a better monitor and PSU for around the same price (within $10-20)? Otherwise, I'm all set to order.
 

outsidah

Member
knitoe said:
Possible fixes:
1) Update to 1204 bios.
2) Clear CMOS
3) In bios, go to APM and enable PCie. Let the computer boot into Windows, restart, and then, disable PCie.

1) Done already
2) Done
3) havent tried this, will give it a shot

Thanks for the tips.

Do you own one as well?
 
Is the resolution of 20" monitors odd looking? I notice on Newegg that there are a lot more 19" than 20", and right now there is an Asus 19" for the same price as an Acer 20", just want to make sure that the extra inch isn't going to make for a funky resolution.
 

Kalnos

Banned
Baller said:
Is an IPS monitor really worth it? I'm considering getting this here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260020


It's going to make you hate your TV. I have the u2711, it's pretty godly. I haven't had any ghosting issues yet (DoWII, SC2, Minecraft) but I haven't played any FPS on it yet.

I did hook up my SNES on the u2711 via DVDO VP at 1080p24hz and even with that their is no noticable input lag with the added lag of the scaler.

EDIT: Also, you might want to go the hardocp forum mega-thread to see impressions on the u2410:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1441159
 
Kalnos said:
It's going to make you hate your TV. I have the u2711, it's pretty godly. I haven't had any ghosting issues yet (DoWII, SC2, Minecraft) but I haven't played any FPS on it yet.

I did hook up my SNES on the u2711 via DVDO VP at 1080p24hz and even with that their is no noticable input lag with the added lag of the scaler.

EDIT: Also, you might want to go the hardocp forum mega-thread to see impressions on the u2410:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1441159
Thanks for the input and link, going to get some popcorn ready. Gonna be a long read...
 
Looking for upgrade advice here!


I have a new Studio XPS desktop that is only a few months old. It has:

-Proprietary mini-ATX motherboard
-Studio Phenom II X6 1075T (3.0GHz)
-ATI Radeon HD 5770 1024MB GDDR5
-8GB DDR3 SDRAM,1333MHz, 4x2GB
-Some shitty 450w power supply.


At some point I want to get a new mobo and case, so that I can have more slots to work with. I'd also be getting a better PSU and switching to Nvidia graphics since ATI has disappointed me so far.

If I were to do this in the next few months, should I stick with this processor or go for an Intel or something with a higher clock speed? (since I'm mostly about gaming)

If I want to stick with the mobo/case I have for now, should I have any compatibility/fit issues with upgrading the PSU and throwing a good Nvidia card in there?
 

antonz

Member
MikeE21286 said:
One earlier posts said March 1

not sure if that's 100% or not
The 1st is the date I got quoted by a few of the system builder companies for when the Sandy Bridge systems will begin shipping again.

For us system builders ourselves though it will depend on production numbers I guess. If they can meet demand for recalled boards etc I am sure they will get the boards out then
 
antonz said:
The 1st is the date I got quoted by a few of the system builder companies for when the Sandy Bridge systems will begin shipping again.

For us system builders ourselves though it will depend on production numbers I guess. If they can meet demand for recalled boards etc I am sure they will get the boards out then

Awesome, thanks. Yeah I'll have my eye on this as I will be returning my ASUS Pro for one of the fixed ones.
 
Is there anything in particular about a case or how a PC was put together that would make it more prone to static electric damage when turning it on, or plugging something in via USB?

I just ruined a pc due to this, and this is my first time in 15+ years that this has ever been an issue. I want to avoid this happening again and am looking for solutions beyond "touch something to ground yourself"
 

mrklaw

MrArseFace
what good utils are there for monitoring CPU usage and temps etc? Something I can perhaps run in the background while playing a game, then come out and have a look what temps I peaked at, and what CPU usage etc.

I'm currently running all my fans off the PSU, and I'm wondering if I can slow some of them down to make them a little quieter (they're pretty quiet so I could live with it, but it could be better).
 

knitoe

Member
mrklaw said:
what good utils are there for monitoring CPU usage and temps etc? Something I can perhaps run in the background while playing a game, then come out and have a look what temps I peaked at, and what CPU usage etc.

I'm currently running all my fans off the PSU, and I'm wondering if I can slow some of them down to make them a little quieter (they're pretty quiet so I could live with it, but it could be better).
Real Temp. HWmonitor is also good.

As for your fan, have you tried using bios settings or software base fan controller. Otherwise, try 3rd party fan control accessory dials.
 

Ecto311

Member
Few more questions - gaf should have a donate button for all the help I get -

Question #1
My dad wants to put a computer out in the garage - where he welds and works on RC planes. There isn't a lot of dust but enough for me to be concerned - is there a good way to filter air and pressurize the computer to keep dust out? Anyone have experience with a PC in a dusty environment?

Question #2
If I was to add another fan to the 212 cooler, is it safe to split the wire coming off of the motherboard so it is also controlled by the temp reading of the system or do I need an external temp control so it doesn't burn things up. Does another 120mm on that cooler work well enough to justify the trouble of adding it? My CPU temps max around 50c when gaming.

I already cut a bigass hole in the top of my computer tower and stuck a 120 in there to use another plug off of the motherboard.
 

Wazzim

Banned
Ecto311 said:
Question #2
If I was to add another fan to the 212 cooler, is it safe to split the wire coming off of the motherboard so it is also controlled by the temp reading of the system or do I need an external temp control so it doesn't burn things up. Does another 120mm on that cooler work well enough to justify the trouble of adding it? My CPU temps max around 50c when gaming.

I already cut a bigass hole in the top of my computer tower and stuck a 120 in there to use another plug off of the motherboard.
I don't see why you'd put a extra cooler when it's only 50c when gaming..
 
Ecto311 said:
Question #1
My dad wants to put a computer out in the garage - where he welds and works on RC planes. There isn't a lot of dust but enough for me to be concerned - is there a good way to filter air and pressurize the computer to keep dust out? Anyone have experience with a PC in a dusty environment?

Put some dust filters over the fan intakes and you should be good. Definitely advise him to put a tarp or something over the tower when not in use.
 

Ecto311

Member
Wazzim said:
I don't see why you'd put a extra cooler when it's only 50c when gaming..

Well it's not just for that but air in the PC moving. See it's shit like this, I thought 50c was high.

I also have this in the top moving air out of the center of the tower.

IMG_0281.JPG


Maybe turn the 212 up toward it?
 

jiien

Member
Ecto311 said:
Well it's not just for that but air in the PC moving. See it's shit like this, I thought 50c was high.

I also have this in the top moving air out of the center of the tower.



Maybe turn the 212 up toward it?

Nope, 50c is low for max temps at a high load. It's a perfectly fine temperature.

Also, don't turn the 212 upwards. Leave it blowing front to back. You don't want to be pulling hot GPU air over the cooler.
 

Log4Girlz

Member
MedIC86 said:
need more info? size? price range? purpose? etc?

I would like a nice flat screen (LCD, or Plasma), at least 24 inches, best image quality possible for 500 or less. I very recently upgraded...or downgraded rather from my dying CRT (I love CRT's :( RIP) to an LG E2350. It was a stop gap. I would like something that can run 120 hz in case I want to run any 3D games.
 

filipe

Member
Anyone have any idea why my computer may be experiencing random BSoD?

One has yet to occur when I'm actually using the computer, like in a game or something. I'll normally leave my computer on, and when I get an hour later, I'll have the "Windows experienced a problem" window open, with BlueScreen as the issue.

Just now I was playing PS3, my computer on, but my monitor on Standby, I hear my speakers turn off and back on, look around and my computer is turning back on. BlueScreen caused it.

So it's not at all happening when I'm actually putting the computer through some real use, but more so when it's "resting". I've taken a look at my temps, and they're all below normal, as in, cooler than usual (canadian winter, cooler room) and my CPU never goes above 20C when hardly used. All fans are running. I was going to check out the thermal paste on the CPU, but before I took the cooler off, I wanted to ask first.

Only difference in the past 2 weeks has been a installing some memory, but I'm almost positive this has happened once or twice before.

Another thing to note... I never turn off my computer at night. I only put it in sleep. Shouldn't make a difference, right?
 

Aruarian Reflection

Chauffeur de la gdlk
How do you guys manage your hard drive space? I just bought a Spinpoint F3 1 TB today and I'm figuring out how I want to partition it for my new build.

This is what I'm thinking:

60 GB SSD -- Windows 7, Adobe Lightroom, Adobe Photoshop, Microsoft Office, and a few other programs that I haven't decided on yet

1 TB HD -- will be my main hard drive. I'm thinking about splitting it this way:
Partition 1: 150 GB for programs
Partition 2: 300 GB for photography
Partition 3: 550 GB for movies, music, media

320 GB HD -- this is my current HD that I will be using as additional storage or temporary back-up until I can copy it over to my external HDs dedicated for back-up

Does this sound reasonable? I'm curious how you guys partition
 
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