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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|
- Thread starter Hazaro
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It's a beauty, that's for sure. I'd check the amount of room you have for a graphics card, that's about the only thing they skimped on pre-2009. That, and they keep the internal structure that bright aluminum color rather than spraying it like most of their current cases.Teetris said:
If you have yet to buy your internal parts, check out the V354. It's a little cheaper than the one you listed and very classy. You will need an mATX motherboard, but can fit 7 HDDs with a smaller videocard (460, 6870) or 3HDDs with a 5890 sized videocard.
It's because they're entirely machined from aluminum. It's a lot pricer than plastic and steel. The cool (pun intended) thing about them is that aluminum is a really good heatsink. Basically, the entire case acts as a heatsink.BloodySinner said:
Ask away good sir!JWong said:
mkenyon said:
While this is true to a point it's not the main reason. Aluminium is slightly more expensive than steel but not by a whole lot. Lian Li cases are so expensive because they decided to establish themselves as a niche high end case retailer. While I agree they are nice cases you're paying more for the name than the recycled pop cans the cases are made of which is fair enough since they do put a lot of thought into their designs which is what some people are looking for.
So I'm pretty much getting this now...mkenyon said:
I got my new video card, EVGA GTX 560 Ti, on Saturday. Played WoW and was fine on Sunday and Monday. Tuesday, I was BSODing to hell because of Nvidia drivers and tried to fix it with Driver Cleaner and fresh driver install.
That didn't fix it, but, on Wednesday, I realized it was an Adobe Flash feature "hardware acceleration" that was incompatible with the new video card. I turn that off and no more BSOD.
On Thursday, I jump into WoW again to find this crazy artifacting (?) and texture exploding happening. Other games, League of Legends, L4D2, or whatever, had this same result. I've tried various things to fix it. Downloaded MSI Afterburner and can see my video card is actually doing something. Reinstalled drivers, tried beta drivers, DX9. Nothing was working.
I'm led to believe that since it was working before, Driver Cleaner deleted something that I needed to run these games and render properly. Other than that, my card might have been DOA and took a while to start acting up.
I've got a new mobo, cpu, and ram coming in today. A fresh reformat and Windows 7 install might fix this, but I'd like to know if this is caused by my GPU being busted.
I have a wireless keyboard (MS Comfort 4000 KB and Mouse) and when playing ANY game that uses the kb to move I'll walk fine for a few seconds then stop. I'm guessing it's my keyboard but with the receiver literally being inches away I can't see how this is happening. Changed the batteries yet it still happens.
Anyway i'm thinking of getting another KB but i'm curious if this is something ALL wireless keyboards do or only the cheaper/older set. I'll probably just grab a wired KB since I have the USB spots now but I wanted to know if there are any that I should steer clear of.
Anyway i'm thinking of getting another KB but i'm curious if this is something ALL wireless keyboards do or only the cheaper/older set. I'll probably just grab a wired KB since I have the USB spots now but I wanted to know if there are any that I should steer clear of.
fizzelopeguss
Banned
JWong said:
There's a beta driver out, 267.26
I'm using it 'cos DA2 is fucked otherwise.
Infernodash
Member
I'm in the market for building a new pc, and this would actually be my first build. I've been putting parts here and there in my newegg wishlist, based on reviews and recommendations from this thread. I have many questions I'd like to ask, but I will just space them out over time and based on what I'm purchasing. My first question is about cases, generally I would prefer a case that's extremely silent and capable of supporting wide motherboards. I've narrowed it down to the silverstone, I'd like some opinions on it.
SILVERSTONE RV02B-EW
My second question is about SSDs, I know there are new SSDs coming out and I wondered if I should take the plunge now or wait. The SSD I hadi in mind is the Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB.
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1CCA
P.S. I guess this is my last question, should I get the full retail version of Windows 7 Ultimate or the system builders version, what am I missing essentially if I choose the OEM version?
SILVERSTONE RV02B-EW
My second question is about SSDs, I know there are new SSDs coming out and I wondered if I should take the plunge now or wait. The SSD I hadi in mind is the Crucial RealSSD C300 128GB.
Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1CCA
P.S. I guess this is my last question, should I get the full retail version of Windows 7 Ultimate or the system builders version, what am I missing essentially if I choose the OEM version?
That is a pretty crappy situation. I'd contact Nvidia support, they might have some good insight to your problem. Check their support forums as well, and even post up your issue.JWong said:
There's always a chance of wireless stuff being funky. I'd never use wireless M&KB on a machine I'm planning on gaming on for this reason. I have a brand new wireless setup for my HTPC and they both act slightly funky from time to time.thundr51 said:
Is there any reason in particular you went wireless? Could your setup not work with wired devices?
Compare the RV02 with the Fractal Define R3. The RV02 will cool your system a bit better, but the Fractal really can't be beat when you're looking for a solid and quiet case. I'm not sure what you mean by wide motherboard. ATX and eATX are the same width. I've not heard of an extra wide motherboard.Infernodash said:
C300s are sweet. The new ones coming out will be a lot more expensive, and the current gen SSDs are blazing fast. I don't see a really good reason to wait. I just bought another 90gig Vertex 2 the other day.
Oh PSU is in the bottom? I thought it was top, good to know this. I really have my heart set on a fashionable case as I already own everything else PC towers have to offer.verbum said:
Ah yes, this is the exact info I was looking for. Thank you!! I own a 460 that doesn't get much use and was planning on reusing it in this thing unless I can fit a 6870 or 570 in the budget. Optionally I might go for a videocard that's fanless but I still need to decide how I want the room to be. The V354 is very nice for a living room but I want the full tower experience!mkenyon said:
And while I didn't care much for the thing acting as a heatsink, in this day and age it's of course never a bad thing! Thanks again
Fixed1979
Member
"Full specs" for the NCIX Vesta R1 are up. I'm really curious to see what they've done for OC and other modifcations. And more importantly how much they're planning on selling these 5 systems for.
Case: Red/Black Corsair Obsidian 650D
Video Card: Radeon HD 6990 4GB
CPU:Intel Core i7 2600K OC (clock speeds TBD)
Cooling:Corsair H70 w/ black & red fans
Motherboard:Gigabyte P67A-UD7 B3
RAM:8GB Corsair Dominator GT
Power Supply:Corsair AX850W
Boot Drive: Corsair Performance SATA3 128GB SSD
Storage Drive:WD Black 2TB
Optical Drive:LG Blu-Ray Burner
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium
Case: Red/Black Corsair Obsidian 650D
Video Card: Radeon HD 6990 4GB
CPU:Intel Core i7 2600K OC (clock speeds TBD)
Cooling:Corsair H70 w/ black & red fans
Motherboard:Gigabyte P67A-UD7 B3
RAM:8GB Corsair Dominator GT
Power Supply:Corsair AX850W
Boot Drive: Corsair Performance SATA3 128GB SSD
Storage Drive:WD Black 2TB
Optical Drive:LG Blu-Ray Burner
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium
Is there a top choice for motherboard's for an i7 2600k processor? A few pages back I asked about this and I found a few options but was wondering what is the best one to go with. Apparently Gigabyte, Asus and MSI are the best. I found an MSI board on newegg but it got bad reviews.
Infernodash
Member
mkenyon said:
I was under the impression that you needed a full tower case that's capable of eATX so that you could fit your after market heatsink and gpu without having to alter the case too much, by removing fans, etc. Maybe, I misinterpreted the info I read, but let's say I purchased a noctua D14 heatsink/fan, and asus 6950 gpu, would that fit in the Define R3?
I'm sure I won't have it in the budget for too much more than what the 128GB C300 cost now, so I'm glad there's no need to wait. Finally, what's your opinion on the OEM version of windows 7 vs full retail? Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
RumblingRosco
Member
Looking to build a new PC this summer (mid-July or so) and have decided to start following this thread to try and re-build my PC hardware knowledge... the last time I worked on a new PC was back when the 8800GT was first released, so I have some catching up to do. My current dilemma is trying to decide if getting a 2600K over a 2500K is "worth it" to me.
I assume between now and July prices will drop a bit, so that's something I'm trying to keep in mind.
I assume between now and July prices will drop a bit, so that's something I'm trying to keep in mind.
Depends on what you want out of it, I'd recommend the Sabertooth P67 if you want to dabble in overclocking and the Maximus IV if you want to go balls deep.Deadstar said:
Nope to the first one. That'll all fit fine in *most* mid tower cases. Also, any reason you're going with the D14? Thing is seriously overkill IMO. If you need that kind of cooling, think about going for a full watercooled system. Otherwise a V6GT will reach pretty similar temps in a much better package.Infernodash said:
Sorry I did not answer the Win 7 thing. OEM just means no box/manual. Technically, you're not supposed to get it if you're using it just for yourself, but Microsoft doesn't really care at all. I've only bought OEM versions since the days of XP pre-SP1.
Only worth it if you're doing some crazy encoding/folding/something else. For gaming, not at all.Soka said:
RumblingRosco
Member
mkenyon said:
Yeah, I was starting to think that. Found this review: http://www.guru3d.com/article/core-i5-2500k-and-core-i7-2600k-review/1 and although they seem to be pretty passionate about the 2600K, the 2500K doesn't seem too significantly worse, and as far as I know, hardly any games utilize hyperthreading. Gaming will be the majority of my usage for this computer, with a little Photoshop and then the standard web-browsing/word processing, which of course the 2500K is overkill for as-is.
Palette Swap
Member
These NVIDIA driver issues bring back bad memories.
As I've said previously, I was going to get a 560 Ti, but now I'm on the fence and eyeing the 6950.
My wife uses Photoshop and it is my understanding CUDA can help, while I have no intention to use multiple displays. I've read 6950 models tend to be noisier than 560s, any feedback, tips on that issue?
Thanks again, guys.
As I've said previously, I was going to get a 560 Ti, but now I'm on the fence and eyeing the 6950.
My wife uses Photoshop and it is my understanding CUDA can help, while I have no intention to use multiple displays. I've read 6950 models tend to be noisier than 560s, any feedback, tips on that issue?
Thanks again, guys.
TheExodu5 said:
Maximus, agreed for the average user. It has features that make tinkering so much easier and fun though. After upgrading my system with the Crosshair IV, I can't go back. All my future mobos will be RoG. The Sabertooth has something like a 6 year warranty though. The thing is nearly indestructible. It's not that much more than your average P67 board either. Totally worth it, IMO.
Infernodash
Member
mkenyon said:
Wow, here I was thinking that a full tower was necessary, thanks for the eye opener, though I was resolved to pay the price it's always good to be able to save a few bucks. The D14 was recommended to me by a coworker, he usually builds his own rigs and when I mentioned I was going to do the same, he offered to help me out and recommended it to me as part of the "essentials." I intend to game and encode videos heavily so I thought it made sense. I'm new to pc building so a lot of the choices I make on parts are from recommendations. lol and the thought of water cooling seems too difficult for my first build. lol
In regards to the oem windows 7, I figured OEM would be better the choice, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn't be missing anything. Thanks for putting me in the right direction. I suppose my next few questions will be on the mobo and psu. But until then, I'll continue to read the forums and keep learning.
Infernodash said:
Yeah, if it's your first build, definitely stay away from watercooling. But yeah, that Noctua was the king of cooling when it came out, but has since been fairly marginalized by recent compact designs. Its primarily for the folks that want to get stupid with overclocking but don't want to spend the time/money to get a full water loop going. If you're not going crazy on an overclock, you'll be a lot better served by the Hyper 212+ or V6GT.
Water-cooling is something you do for fun. It's a ton of work, it's expensive, and makes your build inflexible. Unless you really enjoy doing that kind of thing, don't even consider it.
I was close to doing a water-cooled build. Was going to go with the 800D with 3x120 and a 2x120. Would have cost around $500 just for the cooling itself though, so I decided against t and spent that money on a second GPU instead.
Water cooling will allow for some extreme overclocking. If you're just going for a silent rig and a decent overclock, air cooling will do you just fine.
I was close to doing a water-cooled build. Was going to go with the 800D with 3x120 and a 2x120. Would have cost around $500 just for the cooling itself though, so I decided against t and spent that money on a second GPU instead.
Water cooling will allow for some extreme overclocking. If you're just going for a silent rig and a decent overclock, air cooling will do you just fine.
If you really value the tinkering interface, then sure. But most people here are still trying to get the most they can for the money. I went with all black components because it was worth it to me, but I realize 99% of people just dont care.mkenyon said:
For most people here, overclocking will be a 2 hour ordeal that they will do once over the life of the system. That extra $120 can be spent on a GPU upgrade, an SSD, a better case, a better PSU, better cooling. I would look at all of those before spending the extra money on a high end motherboard.
anonymousAversa
Member
mkenyon said:
I'm also not an expert but I'm pretty sure hardware failure can cause artificating.
Best example that comes to mind: dust or ventilation problems cause the card to overheat. When the card gets too hott, artifacting occurs.
I've also seen artifacting when overclocking my GPU (basically same issue as above: the card is too hot)
Laurentius
Member
All right GAF, my current build is nearing four years old now. I think I'm getting ready for an upgrade. I'm not necessarily going for a top of the line build, but something nice that will scale reasonably for a few years would be good. I'm going to be doing a lot of research, but figured I might get some pointers in the right direction. At the very least, if anybody could tell me about how much I would be set back for this, that would be great.
Basic Desktop Questions
Your Current Specs: Core 2 Duo E4300 / 2 GB of DDR2 RAM / Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 / Radeon X1900GT. It's served me well, but it's definitely starting to show its age.
Budget: Keeping it under $600 would be great, it at all possible.. Note that I'll be upgrading to Windows 7, so that will need to be part of the purchase.
Main Use: Gaming.
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050. I don't think I'll be upgrading. I like my monitor, and that resolution works fine for me.
Are reusing any parts?: At this point, probably just the case...(and things like mouse and keyboard and the monitor, of course.)
When will you build?: I can wait a few months.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe.
Anyway, I can do the research on what parts in specific I'm going to go after, but any ideas as to the price rage I would be expecting for something like that would be great. Like I said, doesn't need to be top of the line everything, but I would like to be playing games like Crysis and Deus Ex 3 at pretty good settings. I only do a serious upgrade like thisabout every 3-4 years, so scalability is great, but I don't mind if games at the end of that cycle have to be run at fairly low settings.
Basic Desktop Questions
Your Current Specs: Core 2 Duo E4300 / 2 GB of DDR2 RAM / Gigabyte GA-965P-DS3 / Radeon X1900GT. It's served me well, but it's definitely starting to show its age.
Budget: Keeping it under $600 would be great, it at all possible.. Note that I'll be upgrading to Windows 7, so that will need to be part of the purchase.
Main Use: Gaming.
Monitor Resolution: 1680x1050. I don't think I'll be upgrading. I like my monitor, and that resolution works fine for me.
Are reusing any parts?: At this point, probably just the case...(and things like mouse and keyboard and the monitor, of course.)
When will you build?: I can wait a few months.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe.
Anyway, I can do the research on what parts in specific I'm going to go after, but any ideas as to the price rage I would be expecting for something like that would be great. Like I said, doesn't need to be top of the line everything, but I would like to be playing games like Crysis and Deus Ex 3 at pretty good settings. I only do a serious upgrade like thisabout every 3-4 years, so scalability is great, but I don't mind if games at the end of that cycle have to be run at fairly low settings.
Get an SSD anytime you are ready. You or I will not be able to tell the difference between a SATA II or III drive. We are talking parts of seconds here in the speed difference. Going from a disk drive to an SSD will be enough "Wow" factor for you.Infernodash said:
You can get an upgrade version of Win7. You really only need the Pro version, the Ultimate just adds Bitkey encryption and some advenced networking that you will probably not use.
If you have an .edu email address, try the local university system software store. If not, find someone with an .edu email address. Cost will be around $50-$60. To install to a clean disk look at the following site. (Procedure number 3, editing the registry, let me activate my Win 7 update disk).
http://www.mydigitallife.info/2009/10/27/clean-install-windows-7-with-upgrade-media-and-product-key-on-formatted-or-empty-blank-hard-drive/
evil solrac v3.0
Member
TheExodu5 said:
but... but.. they are so KEWL looking.... >_>
Chinner said:
Well, BF3 could be a different story. Main reason an i7 is not needed right now is because vast majority of games don't use hyperthreading, which i7's can do but i5 cannot. From what I know of DICE and seen of BF3, it very well could make heavy use of hyperthreading and as such an i7 could be worthwhile. Don't take this as fact from me but I still think you would be GPU throttled rather than CPU throttled if you did get an i7 and anything besides top top of the line GPUs. So unless your spending probably 500-700 on your GPU, an i5 will perform just the same as an i7 would.
All speculation on my part, don't take it as fact. Many guys here know much more than I do.
Mattdaddy
Gold Member
I just constructed my first entry-level gaming PC. After stalking this thread for awhile and doing some research I went with a Phenom X4 955, MSI GTX 560 Ti, 8GB GSkill Ripjaw, Windows 7 64bit. Thanks to all that answered my rookie questions! I got it constructed without too much hassle. After playing tons of BFBC2 on PS3, the first thing I did was get rebuy it on steam and let it rip. 1920 x1080, High settings... oh my gawd.
It was like the scene from the original Die Hard when they finally get into the vault... the door opens slowly and the christmas/church music starts booming as the light shines on their faces, and they all just stand there wide opened as jaws slowly drop...
Man it's all I've been thinking about today at work. Shogun 2, Homefront, BF3, Witcher 2... so so pumped now. My gaming experience has seriously been elevated. Can't wait to get home!!
It was like the scene from the original Die Hard when they finally get into the vault... the door opens slowly and the christmas/church music starts booming as the light shines on their faces, and they all just stand there wide opened as jaws slowly drop...
Man it's all I've been thinking about today at work. Shogun 2, Homefront, BF3, Witcher 2... so so pumped now. My gaming experience has seriously been elevated. Can't wait to get home!!
Infernodash
Member
verbum said:
Thanks for that recommendation and website, it's been bookmarked, and I do currently attend evening classes, so even better news for me. Also, thanks again TheExodu5 and mkenyon for the comments that followed my last question. I definitely feel like i'm on the right track.
MisterAnderson
Member
When installing a soundcard and you have motherboard sound, do you just uninstall the realtek audio drivers or do I have to like, go into the BIOS and disabled onboard sound as well or something?
This is all truth. It's the very same reason I haven't done it yet. On the flip side, when you do get a loop, just about the only thing you need to upgrade are the waterblocks. A buddy of mine has had the same loop system for about 4 years, with as many builds.TheExodu5 said:
Welcome to the Master Race, hope you enjoy your stay and new status as Ubermensch. *internet high five*Mattdaddy said:
Outdoor Miner
Member
Looks like the Egg have some more 1155 boards available.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=1155&name=Intel Motherboards&Order=BESTMATCH
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...=1155&name=Intel Motherboards&Order=BESTMATCH
slidewinder
Banned
Not really on-topic, but has anybody ever used Windows 7's "system image" to move an OS install to a new hard drive?
Looking at guides online, it seems that the restore utility doesn't actually allow you to pick which disk you want the image to go to? If I just unplug all drives but the one with the image and the desired destination and make sure the destination is first in the boot order in my BIOS (something Windows seems to notice wrt installing) will that force it to do what I want?
Looking at guides online, it seems that the restore utility doesn't actually allow you to pick which disk you want the image to go to? If I just unplug all drives but the one with the image and the desired destination and make sure the destination is first in the boot order in my BIOS (something Windows seems to notice wrt installing) will that force it to do what I want?
My labtop (Macbook '07) is reaching its end and I am going to upgrade one way or another in the summer. Either a 15' Macbook Pro or a windows desktop. I'll still need mobility so if I get a desktop I'll probably get a cheap laptop on the side.
I have a few concerns; I've gotten too attached to OS X and Macbooks, no more spinning disks we don't get along, and Battlefield 3 has to run niiice (which is impossible to predict right now I know).
To kill some time I configured this for 1.180 euros:
MSI N480GTX Twin Frozr II
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
ADATA SSD Adaptor Brackets for 3.5"
Intel® Core i5-2500K
Corsair CMPSU-650TX
Lian Li PC-7B Plus
Samsung SH-S223C
Crucial CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1
Intel® DP67BGB3
Kingston HyperX 4 GB DDR3-1333 Kit
For a screen I have an "old" Samsung 21'' and a Philips 30'' HDTV
So that or an 15'' Macbook Pro HD6750 with an SSD.
Anyone have some advice or critique?
thanks
I have a few concerns; I've gotten too attached to OS X and Macbooks, no more spinning disks we don't get along, and Battlefield 3 has to run niiice (which is impossible to predict right now I know).
To kill some time I configured this for 1.180 euros:
MSI N480GTX Twin Frozr II
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
ADATA SSD Adaptor Brackets for 3.5"
Intel® Core i5-2500K
Corsair CMPSU-650TX
Lian Li PC-7B Plus
Samsung SH-S223C
Crucial CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1
Intel® DP67BGB3
Kingston HyperX 4 GB DDR3-1333 Kit
For a screen I have an "old" Samsung 21'' and a Philips 30'' HDTV
So that or an 15'' Macbook Pro HD6750 with an SSD.
Anyone have some advice or critique?
thanks
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