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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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isoku said:
I don't recall. My gpu temps seem fine but I'm kinda scared to run it again.
Run it again and watch the GPU temps. If it gets super hot stop the test. You need to find out what caused it to crash last time.
 

n0n44m

Member
Coldsnap said:
Gonna ask this for the third time and hope someone knows; How do i get windows 7 to recognize my receiver as a 5.1? Under sound devices my receiver cannot be changed out of stereo so a stereo signal is being sent to my receiver and then my receiver is turning it into 5.1 causing the mix to be wrong; people can sneak up on me and conversations are center channel when they should be off right ect.

1. rightclick sound icon in taskbar, select playback devices

2. rightclick whatever has "Nvidia High Definition Audio" as a grey subtext beneath it's bolded name, select the option "configure speakers"

3. select 5.1 and so on

4. optionally rightclick again, now select properties, go to enhancements tab and select "disable all enhancements" assuming you have a decent receiver

*all works with my GTX480 --HDMI--> Yamaha RXV-661


evil solrac v3.0 said:
so what CPU do I buy with the new Z68 chips? newegg is not being helpful....

a socket 1155 ... 2500K for games, 2600K for games & multithreaded media software
 

ombz

Member
@Hazaro and chaosblade
Thank you for your replies. I want to build a pc in the future after I get a job but I didn't want spend money on something that would age quickly.
 

bananaman1234

Unconfirmed Member
I ran Furmark's burn-in test for 10 min. No BSOD. Max temp was 73 but it appeared to fluctuate with the memory controller load between 55% and 37%. Is this normal?

Pic of fluctuating temp:

IMG_20110511_203928.jpg
 
n0n44m said:
1. rightclick sound icon in taskbar, select playback devices

2. rightclick whatever has "Nvidia High Definition Audio" as a grey subtext beneath it's bolded name, select the option "configure speakers"

3. select 5.1 and so on

4. optionally rightclick again, now select properties, go to enhancements tab and select "disable all enhancements" assuming you have a decent receiver

*all works with my GTX480 --HDMI--> Yamaha RXV-661




a socket 1155 ... 2500K for games, 2600K for games & multithreaded media software



so this is not for the Ivy bridge then? when do those come out? what is the difference then between these new motherboards and the previous ones?
 
isoku said:
I ran Furmark's burn-in test for 10 min. No BSOD. Max temp was 73 but it appeared to fluctuate with the memory controller load between 55% and 37%. Is this normal?

Pic of fluctuating temp:

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l63/isoku/IMG_20110511_203928.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]
Those are good temperatures. I don't know the specifics of the Furmark test but GPUs frequently go into the 80s (degrees celsius). I would probably only be concerned if it hit 90 or more, or somewhere around there.

What did you use to measure your temps btw? I'd like to check that out.
 
evil solrac v3.0 said:
so this is not for the Ivy bridge then? when do those come out? what is the difference then between these new motherboards and the previous ones?
Ivy Bridge will be out Q1 2012, as far as we know.

The Z68 motherboards support CPU and GPU overclocking while using the IGP, SSD caching, and Quick Sync.

P67 let you overclock the CPU and GPu but no on the other features. H67 let you use the IGP but not the others.
 

Relax.MX

Member
Thanks Cardigan

black_vegeta said:
The closes Fry's location from Tijuana is located in Mission Valley (off North Interstate 15 & Aero Drive).

Hello thanks for the help..this is the store..

Which of these are?...i hope the trolley go over there

Anaheim 3370 East La Palma Ave 92806
Burbank 2311 North Hollywood Way 91505
City Of Industry 13401 Crossroads Parkway North 91746
Fountain Valley 10800 Kalama River Avenue 92708
Manhattan Beach 3600 Sepulveda Boulevard 90266
Oxnard 1901 E. Ventura Boulevard 93030
San Diego 9825 Stonecrest Boulevard 92123
San Marcos 150 Bent Avenue 92069
Woodland Hills 6100 Canoga Avenue 91367
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
isoku said:
I ran Furmark's burn-in test for 10 min. No BSOD. Max temp was 73 but it appeared to fluctuate with the memory controller load between 55% and 37%. Is this normal?

Pic of fluctuating temp:

IMG_20110511_203928.jpg
It's your fan running between 80% (gets hot) to 100% (gets cool). It's normal.
 

Dosia

Member
Posting from my new PC. Anybody know how to enable the subwoofer channel on an asus P8P67 pro? I have my 2 front speakers working but I cant get the sub to work. I have a 3mm to rca connector in the orange port going to the line in on my subs amp.
 
All right, so I'm thinking that The Witcher 2 will probably be the "swan song" for my PC's current configuration:

- AMD Phenom II X4 945
- 4GB RAM DDR3
- GeForce GTX 260
- MSI AMD 790GX-G65 AM3 DDR3 1666+ CrossFire Chipset Mobo

I had a lot of luck with GAF's suggestions for PC stuff last time, so I figured I'd try it out again :)

Basically, my thought right now is that I will play The Witcher 2 on this machine, and then plan to have a new/improved setup for Elder Scrolls V and Battlefield 3 by November.

I also want to look at possibly some new fans/cooling options because right now when I play anything on it the fans get LOUD.

What should I be looking at/tracking later this year if I want to upgrade? What are the main points that I need to take care of, in order?
 
Relax.MX said:
Thanks Cardigan



Hello thanks for the help..this is the store..

Which of these are?...i hope the trolley go over there

Anaheim 3370 East La Palma Ave 92806
Burbank 2311 North Hollywood Way 91505
City Of Industry 13401 Crossroads Parkway North 91746
Fountain Valley 10800 Kalama River Avenue 92708
Manhattan Beach 3600 Sepulveda Boulevard 90266
Oxnard 1901 E. Ventura Boulevard 93030
San Diego 9825 Stonecrest Boulevard 92123
San Marcos 150 Bent Avenue 92069
Woodland Hills 6100 Canoga Avenue 91367

This is the one.
 

Fredescu

Member
timetokill said:
What should I be looking at/tracking later this year if I want to upgrade? What are the main points that I need to take care of, in order?
You could probably get away with just upgrading the video card. Is the CPU overclocked? BF3 is probably going to be CPU heavy, but I doubt a Phenom II X4 at ~3.5Ghz is going to have too much trouble with it. The new AMD processors should be out next month, so it will be interesting to see what they do to the market. I'd be surprised if you'd have to worry about a CPU upgrade for a while, but we won't know for sure until the benches come in.
 
I tried doing a favour for my brother yesterday and installed a Hyper 212+ on to his old CPU (an old Athlon 64 X2 4200) and I have no idea what, but something went wrong and his mobo and/or CPU is just FUBAR'd now (won't boot / even get to BIOS or display anything). Tried everything we could possibly do to fix the problem, but it looks like he needs to upgrade now.

So I've picked out some cheap but hopefully effective stuff for him. RAM I'm not concerned about, but I don't know much about AMD stuff, such as whether the AMD number on the motherboard / its chipset type affects any CPU compatibility (or what they mean at all). Basically, would this CPU and this mobo work well together? They're a combo of the best value CPU I could get and the cheapest motherboard that was a reliable brand, wasn't a micro board, and was in store right now (USB and SATA 3 is nice though).
 

Smokey

Member
So I'm getting my temps at lows of 29 C and Highs of 38. Looking at it though it seems to be in the 30-32 range when I'm observing it.

This good/better/in line with what I should be getting with the H70?
 

Coldsnap

Member
n0n44m said:
1. rightclick sound icon in taskbar, select playback devices

2. rightclick whatever has "Nvidia High Definition Audio" as a grey subtext beneath it's bolded name, select the option "configure speakers"

3. select 5.1 and so on

4. optionally rightclick again, now select properties, go to enhancements tab and select "disable all enhancements" assuming you have a decent receiver

*all works with my GTX480 --HDMI--> Yamaha RXV-661

Thanks for the reply, that's my problem when i go into configure speakers only stereo shows up.
 

Dosia

Member
Smokey said:
So I'm getting my temps at lows of 29 C and Highs of 38. Looking at it though it seems to be in the 30-32 range when I'm observing it.

This good/better/in line with what I should be getting with the H70?
Not sure about the h70 but my temps fluctuate from 32 to 38 with a 212.
 

Hawk269

Member
Smokey said:
So I'm getting my temps at lows of 29 C and Highs of 38. Looking at it though it seems to be in the 30-32 range when I'm observing it.

This good/better/in line with what I should be getting with the H70?

You are good Smokey. I tend to idle between 29-32 depending on the core. But you are good man. Enjoy!
 

Semblance

shhh Graham I'm still compiling this Radiant map
I got a couple questions, I should be upgrading within a week so I'd appreciate a little help:

1. I've read that TE sticks don't play nice with some of the newer Intel boards, is that true? Any way around this or specific brand that will work? I use mine for MAME and will be playing a lot of AE when that's released, so this is sort of a big deal for me.

2. Consensus on which 560 card is the best? I've my eye on this Palit card but would like to make sure there isn't a clear better model out right now.
 
GuiltybyAssociation said:
I got a couple questions, I should be upgrading within a week so I'd appreciate a little help:

1. I've read that TE sticks don't play nice with some of the newer Intel boards, is that true? Any way around this or specific brand that will work? I use mine for MAME and will be playing a lot of AE when that's released, so this is sort of a big deal for me.

2. Consensus on which 560 card is the best? I've my eye on this Palit card but would like to make sure there isn't a clear better model out right now.
What are your pc's specs? Here in Canada I can pick up a gtx 570 for only a little more than the cost of that 2gb 560. I assume the same deal should be available in the US somewhere.

Is there a reason why you want the 2gb 560? What res do you play at BTW? Here I can get a 560 1gb for under $200 after rebate.
 

Smokey

Member
So I tried messing with the ASUS tool that will allow you to OC by clicking 'Fast' or 'Extreme'. I chose extreme and after doing whatever it does it came back with 4.6ghz for my 2600k. That's nice and all...but I can't seem to apply this? Everywhere I look it still says the standard 2600k speed. I've clicked "Save Profile" and then Apply and still can't get anywhere.

Anybody else with a ASUS p8p67 pro know what I'm doing wrong?
 

Hawk269

Member
Smokey said:
So I tried messing with the ASUS tool that will allow you to OC by clicking 'Fast' or 'Extreme'. I chose extreme and after doing whatever it does it came back with 4.6ghz for my 2600k. That's nice and all...but I can't seem to apply this? Everywhere I look it still says the standard 2600k speed. I've clicked "Save Profile" and then Apply and still can't get anywhere.

Anybody else with a ASUS p8p67 pro know what I'm doing wrong?

When the CPU is not at load, it runs at standard speed. Once you run something CPU intensive, it ramps up to the overclock speed. This is done to save power etc. You don't need a 4.6 oc to surf the web for example, so it stays at stock speed. The OC tool you are using does a good job, but I would suggest you do your own OC when you learn more.

I actually just did my own or should I say, I copied the one from a few pages back to get a nice 4.5 OC and it works fantastic.
 

Semblance

shhh Graham I'm still compiling this Radiant map
opticalmace said:
What are your pc's specs? Here in Canada I can pick up a gtx 570 for only a little more than the cost of that 2gb 560. I assume the same deal should be available in the US somewhere.

Is there a reason why you want the 2gb 560? What res do you play at BTW? Here I can get a 560 1gb for under $200 after rebate.

I play at 1920 x 1080 and a 560 of any type would be a nice upgrade. If I could find a 570 for only a little more here in the States I'd gladly pick one up, but yeah. I mean, if that Palit 560 is a wash and there's another brand that's better or at least comparable for less money, I'm all ears, of course.
 
I just installed a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus, and when I boot up my computer, it says:

"Your computer CPU fan fail or speed too low". When I press F1 to continue, it boots as normal, but I am worried about the message.

Anyone know how I go about fixing this problem?
 
number1jagsfan said:
I just installed a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus, and when I boot up my computer, it says:

"Your computer CPU fan fail or speed too low". When I press F1 to continue, it boots as normal, but I am worried about the message.

Anyone know how I go about fixing this problem?
Maybe double check the power cable. Did you hook it up to the motherboard?
 

Jeramii

Banned
gaf i'm going to the darkside!!! I've been a mac user for many many years now and I'm switching to a PC sometime in the next few months. But I want to have this planned out to know I won't regret what I'm doing. My 3 year old ($3000 at the time) MacBook Pro is nearing ready for retirement, and I'll be damned to pay that much for a computer again.

I went to my friend who is a programmer and a gaming nerd and asked him for advice to build an under $1000 computer that can also do gaming.

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042
Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170017
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229
Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073
Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231275
Graphics Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121432

Keeps me just under $900! XD

does gaf approve? or what can i do to make this cheaper/better while staying under $1000.
 

Drkirby

Corporate Apologist
isoku said:
I ran Furmark's burn-in test for 10 min. No BSOD. Max temp was 73 but it appeared to fluctuate with the memory controller load between 55% and 37%. Is this normal?

Pic of fluctuating temp:

http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l63/isoku/IMG_20110511_203928.jpg[/IMG[/QUOTE]
You do know you have a print screen button, right?
 
Jeramii said:
gaf i'm going to the darkside!!! I've been a mac user for many many years now and I'm switching to a PC sometime in the next few months. But I want to have this planned out to know I won't regret what I'm doing. My 3 year old ($3000 at the time) MacBook Pro is nearing ready for retirement, and I'll be damned to pay that much for a computer again.

I went to my friend who is a programmer and a gaming nerd and asked him for advice to build an under $1000 computer that can also do gaming.

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129042
Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170017
Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157229
Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073
Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231275
Graphics Card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121432

Keeps me just under $900! XD

does gaf approve? or what can i do to make this cheaper/better while staying under $1000.
Get a different power supply. You never want to skimp out on a PSU. And what about a hard drive (or SSD)? Do you already have one? I assume you already have a monitor, peripherals? What about Windows 7?

For a PSU, I would personally get a 650W (or 750W for the future) unit from Corsair, PC Power & Cooling or Seasonic.
 

Fredescu

Member
Jeramii said:
does gaf approve? or what can i do to make this cheaper/better while staying under $1000.
Don't trust all that sweet hardware to a $27 power supply. Something like this will last multiple builds http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012 and on the off chance that it doesn't, has a 7 year warranty. Also spend the extra $20 to get the K version of that processor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 for an easy overclock down the track.
 
number1jagsfan said:
Yeah the fan is on, so I don't know why I am getting this message
What is the reading in the BIOS? There's a particular place on your mobo to hook up your CPU fan to. So it's definitely attached there? It needs it to read the fanspeed, AFAIK.
 

Jeramii

Banned
opticalmace said:
Get a different power supply. You never want to skimp out on a PSU. And what about a hard drive (or SSD)? Do you already have one? I assume you already have a monitor, peripherals? What about Windows 7?

For a PSU, I would personally get a 650W (or 750W for the future) unit from Corsair, PC Power & Cooling or Seasonic.

i have a full windows 7 professional license which i purchased when my school was offering them for $20.

hard drive will likely be a 1tb, monitor will be my 40" sony z series tele via hdmi, still need to buy a dvd drive which isn't an issue... and mouse and keyboard are no issue.

good to know on the power supply.


Fredescu said:
Don't trust all that sweet hardware to a $27 power supply. Something like this will last multiple builds http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012 and on the off chance that it doesn't, has a 7 year warranty. Also spend the extra $20 to get the K version of that processor http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115072 for an easy overclock down the track.

thanks. i'll take a look at that!
 
Smokey said:
So I tried messing with the ASUS tool that will allow you to OC by clicking 'Fast' or 'Extreme'. I chose extreme and after doing whatever it does it came back with 4.6ghz for my 2600k. That's nice and all...but I can't seem to apply this? Everywhere I look it still says the standard 2600k speed. I've clicked "Save Profile" and then Apply and still can't get anywhere.

Anybody else with a ASUS p8p67 pro know what I'm doing wrong?
Damn I guess I got lucky mine is at 4.9 GHz from that program
 

knitoe

Member
Saren is Bad said:
Damn I guess I got lucky mine is at 4.9 GHz from that program
You might want to check your CPU voltages under load running Prime95 small FFT + HWmonitor. Software overclocking tools usually over volts compare to doing it manually.
 

Nabs

Member
GuiltybyAssociation said:
I got a couple questions, I should be upgrading within a week so I'd appreciate a little help:

1. I've read that TE sticks don't play nice with some of the newer Intel boards, is that true? Any way around this or specific brand that will work? I use mine for MAME and will be playing a lot of AE when that's released, so this is sort of a big deal for me.

The PS3 sticks wont work with some motherboards. If you run into that problem, you'll need to spend around 10 bucks for a USB PCI card with a VIA chipset. They are pretty easy to find.
 
opticalmace said:
What is the reading in the BIOS? There's a particular place on your mobo to hook up your CPU fan to. So it's definitely attached there? It needs it to read the fanspeed, AFAIK.

From a bit of googling: "This problem is caused because you have enabled the option "Auto Fan Speed" and "Enable CPU low speed advice". When you turn on your computer in most cases the CPU fan turns on for a while, and before the boot beep it stops. This will happen when the case is cool, then, the message of the low speed CPU fan appears."

Could that be the issue?
 

Semblance

shhh Graham I'm still compiling this Radiant map
Nabs said:
The PS3 sticks wont work with some motherboards. If you run into that problem, you'll need to spend around 10 bucks for a USB PCI card with a VIA chipset. They are pretty easy to find.

Ah, that's not that big a deal then.

Thanks, Nabs.
 

n0n44m

Member
Coldsnap said:
Thanks for the reply, that's my problem when i go into configure speakers only stereo shows up.

strange ... you got the latest drivers?

what receiver do you have?

I have noticed I have less options with the latest drivers compared to those of last september when I got my card; I suspect the drivers now look at the EDID info or something sent out by the receiver over HDMI, and then automatically decide what is supported or not.

( i.e. I can still anything from 2.0 to 7.1, but it has now automatically decided it supports Dolby Digital and DTS output and all types of kHz outputs whereas before I had to select those manually)

the downside of this is that if your receiver sends out incorrect EDID or isn't understood properly, you can't override the choices your driver makes :/ *afaik*
 

Nafai1123

Banned
Ok, so I completed my build this evening and thank god it booted after my first DOA board. I am having a strange issue with my display though.

Every time I load a GPU application (3D Mark, Metro 2033, etc) it will run fine initially but eventually the image will become split and the left part of the image will move to the right. Sometimes the image will also have some artifacts.

If I force quit the application the screen will remain that way until I reboot. I'm am using the newest Catalyst drivers. I'm not sure what to try next...

edit: ATI 6850 btw.
 
number1jagsfan said:
From a bit of googling: "This problem is caused because you have enabled the option "Auto Fan Speed" and "Enable CPU low speed advice". When you turn on your computer in most cases the CPU fan turns on for a while, and before the boot beep it stops. This will happen when the case is cool, then, the message of the low speed CPU fan appears."

Could that be the issue?
Probably?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Jeramii said:
i have a full windows 7 professional license which i purchased when my school was offering them for $20.

hard drive will likely be a 1tb, monitor will be my 40" sony z series tele via hdmi, still need to buy a dvd drive which isn't an issue... and mouse and keyboard are no issue.

good to know on the power supply.
Get the Seasonic X750 posted on the last page for $120 with coupon. Best PSU in the range.
Get a 2500K as well.
Nafai1123 said:
Ok, so I completed my build this evening and thank god it booted after my first DOA board. I am having a strange issue with my display though.

Every time I load a GPU application (3D Mark, Metro 2033, etc) it will run fine initially but eventually the image will become split and the left part of the image will move to the right. Sometimes the image will also have some artifacts.

If I force quit the application the screen will remain that way until I reboot. I'm am using the newest Catalyst drivers. I'm not sure what to try next...

edit: ATI 6850 btw.
If you load under FURMark does it artifact? Try jiggling the cable and reseating it on the motherboard. Also try 1 driver revision back.
 

Coldsnap

Member
n0n44m said:
strange ... you got the latest drivers?

what receiver do you have?

I have noticed I have less options with the latest drivers compared to those of last september when I got my card; I suspect the drivers now look at the EDID info or something sent out by the receiver over HDMI, and then automatically decide what is supported or not.

( i.e. I can still anything from 2.0 to 7.1, but it has now automatically decided it supports Dolby Digital and DTS output and all types of kHz outputs whereas before I had to select those manually)

the downside of this is that if your receiver sends out incorrect EDID or isn't understood properly, you can't override the choices your driver makes :/ *afaik*

Onkyo, dang... maybe i should contact nvidia.
 

Dosia

Member
Has anybody had any luck getting a sub to work using realtek audios chipset on asus mobos? When watching youtube only my front speakers work. I would like to get the sub out to act as a front out or something and have my amp filter out the high freqs but Im not sure how to do that. Anybody experienced this?
 

n0n44m

Member
Coldsnap said:
Onkyo, dang... maybe i should contact nvidia.

I tried to google a bit but I have no experience doing EDID override stuff

found this link however

http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=163940

which is pretty much the same issue you have except with a TV

he links to some threads in the final post on avsforum which are dedicated to these sort of issues, basically you'll have to capture the EDID your receiver sends out, then edit it and force the driver to load the edited EDID instead

you could also try to install the sound drivers from some earlier drivers as a temporary solution, though I don't know if you can mix later display drivers with earlier sound drivers... (like I said last year I still had to select everything manually so I suspect this EDID sound stuff was introduced in later drivers)
 
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