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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
The other thread looks a little... Dead, so I'll post here.

I turned my PC on today, and for some reason I got this error..


I can't save Microsoft Word documents, or any type of file for that matter, and a little message keeps popping up in the bottom corner saying


Any ideas..?

First run memtest. Apps do all sorts of crazy stuff if RAM is bad. But occam's razor is you have a bad drive. Check smart reports, run disk utilities.

This is why I use RAID1. Intel tells me a drive is bad and I replace it like a light bulb. Happens every 4-5 years. Not using RAID1 is like casual sex without a condom.
 

Pandemic

Member
Your Current Specs: Nothing important, all parts are useless.
Budget: $2000 (give or take) - Australia
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Gaming, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
Monitor Resolution: Resolution..? Doesn't really bother me, just something nice I guess? A new monitor could be included.
What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: The latest and upcoming games, should last for a few years at least.
Will you be overclocking?: Yes (I'll learn)

I've got a few builds, but I'm not sure which one to go with. Apparently it's a waste to get with the i7 3770K if the PC is mainly for gaming.
2013-02-25_0749.png


And..
ExYZXEF.jpg


Someone also offered me a 6 month old PC, which was $2,500, offering me $1,900, which I'm hesitant about and the specs are..
3570K
P8z77-v pro
16gb ripjawsx 1600mhz
Nh-d14 2011
Noctua 1155 mounting kit
Corsair hx650
Gtx670
Accelero xtreme iii
Noctua 14cm exhaust fan
1x kingston 240gb ssd v+200 7mm
1x kingston 240gb ssd v+200 9.5mm
Fractal define r4 black immaculate
Logitech g15 v1 kb
Logitech g9x mouse
Logitech z506 5.1 surround sound speakers
Windows 6 home premium 64 bit
Lg w2353 23" 1920x1080 hd screen

Any tips/suggestions?

Thanks.
 
I've got a few builds, but I'm not sure which one to go with. Apparently it's a waste to get with the i7 3770K if the PC is mainly for gaming.
2013-02-25_0749.png


And..
ExYZXEF.jpg


Someone also offered me a 6 month old PC, which was $2,500, offering me $1,900, which I'm hesitant about and the specs are..


Any tips/suggestions?

Thanks.

From what I heard, if you wanna save yourself a couple hundred bucks you should go with the 670 instead of the 680 cause apparently the performance is only a 5%-10% increase between the two
 

neoanarch

Member
Can you get a VP450 instead for the PSU? How much more is an XFX Core 450/550 or Antec BP550? The builder series are cheap for a reason :/

Otherwise good.

I didn't realize the builder series was rated so badly.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Giqp

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $397.95 -50(and -20 rebate)


The Microcenter deal for this MB combo is actually way better. All savings goes toward a new GPU.

Mb 3570k combo is 265 with taxes, minus a 20 dollar MiR. I just wish RAM prices would come back down. I knew I should have bought the Samsung 30nm back when it was 30.
 
I've got my computer up and running for the most part. Still need to tweak some things...

There's a weird thing when I plug in earphones...the audio sounds a bit hollow...like I can only hear a bit of what's going on and the rest is super faint.

Could that be from the wiring?
 

iavi

Member
I've got my computer up and running for the most part. Still need to tweak some things...

There's a weird thing when I plug in earphones...the audio sounds a bit hollow...like I can only hear a bit of what's going on and the rest is super faint.

Could that be from the wiring?

Drivers. Windows doesn't always install the right ones.

If you're using the motherboard audio, it's probably Realtek.
 

Pandemic

Member
From what I heard, if you wanna save yourself a couple hundred bucks you should go with the 670 instead of the 680 cause apparently the performance is only a 5%-10% increase between the two

Guessing you're referring to the graphics card? Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it. Anyone else got suggestions or tips with which build and any changes?

Much appreciated.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I didn't realize the builder series was rated so badly.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Giqp

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77-DS3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($47.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $397.95 -50(and -20 rebate)


The Microcenter deal for this MB combo is actually way better. All savings goes toward a new GPU.

Mb 3570k combo is 265 with taxes, minus a 20 dollar MiR. I just wish RAM prices would come back down. I knew I should have bought the Samsung 30nm back when it was 30.
They aren't terrible, just lacking.
Can you get any of the mobos in the OP, or is it out of budget? If MicroCenter has a decent return policy it should be ok. Mobo reviews are almost always bad, but some of the issues are more than just DOAs.

All up an running
Nice!
I've got a few builds, but I'm not sure which one to go with. Apparently it's a waste to get with the i7 3770K if the PC is mainly for gaming.

ExYZXEF.jpg


Someone also offered me a 6 month old PC, which was $2,500, offering me $1,900, which I'm hesitant about and the specs are..
The used PC isn't bad. Of your two new options, 2nd one hands down. Get a 670 or 4GB 680 if you are spending on nVidia, otherwise a 7970Ghz for value.

3770K doesn't make that much of a difference now. Fill out the OP bullet sheet for more help.
Hackintoshing :/

Edit
Opened up the front bay and it was a little loose. All better!
Front ports are usually terrible for audio. Back all the way if you can.
 

Irobot82

Member
Guessing you're referring to the graphics card? Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it. Anyone else got suggestions or tips with which build and any changes?

Much appreciated.

Where are you buying your goods from? Microcenter has that case for $99, CPU to $230, and Mobo for $80.
 

Pandemic

Member
From what I heard, if you wanna save yourself a couple hundred bucks you should go with the 670 instead of the 680 cause apparently the performance is only a 5%-10% increase between the two

They aren't terrible, just lacking.
Can you get any of the mobos in the OP, or is it out of budget? If MicroCenter has a decent return policy it should be ok. Mobo reviews are almost always bad, but some of the issues are more than just DOAs.

Nice!

The used PC isn't bad. Of your two new options, 2nd one hands down. Get a 670 or 4GB 680 if you are spending on nVidia, otherwise a 7970Ghz for value.

3770K doesn't make that much of a difference now. Fill out the OP bullet sheet for more help.

Front ports are usually terrible for audio. Back all the way if you can.

Thanks for the response. I know nothing about computers, but isn't the motherboard for the second one cheaper, thus less better?

Where are you buying your goods from? Microcenter has that case for $99, CPU to $230, and Mobo for $80.

I'll be buying from an Australian store.
 

neoanarch

Member
They aren't terrible, just lacking.
Can you get any of the mobos in the OP, or is it out of budget? If MicroCenter has a decent return policy it should be ok. Mobo reviews are almost always bad, but some of the issues are more than just DOAs.


Switching to the ASUS P8Z77-V LK isn't a hassle.
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Thanks for the response. I know nothing about computers, but isn't the motherboard for the second one cheaper, thus less better?
One has a monitor, 840 PRO, and better PSU. So it's better! You should swap in a 7970 though unless you want nVidia.

Seriously, fill out the OP bullet list, I'm not sure what you are looking for in building the PC or your price flexibility.
Switching to the ASUS P8Z77-V LK isn't a hassle.
I'm just not sure what the price of the bundle gives you on discount. As long as you have an easy return I wouldn't sweat it too much. Just since the old bootloop issues I've been more wary of GB, and they were slower on the UEFI BIOS.

The LK isn't particularly better than the ASRock / Biostar boards.
 
Well, as a reaction to overheating I decided to invest in buying a new computer case. I'm replacing my current main build tower, my Antect Nine Hundred Two, a mid tower case, which was getting a lot of dust and was kinda small for my large motherboard anyway(there's barely room to plug in SATA drives to the motherboard). With an NZXT case, in particular this one. I know it isn't recommended, but I like the case. It has a nice white colour, and it appears to have better cooling and dust prevention than my Antec case.

And more importantly, it's a full tower. Which gives me much better room and won't have as much direct heat from the PSU hitting my GPU. It's also one of the highest rated cases on Newegg. The fact that it's big, white(opposed to all of the electronics today which are black), good looking(in my personal taste, you probably disagree), has better cooling, and has some of the highest reviews on Newegg all makes it seem like it is an upgrade to me.

I still have one problem though. I still haven't fixed one of the problems from one of the questions I asked in the thread earlier. There's still dust stuck in my PCI-E slot that I previously had. And I haven't gotten it out yet. Of course, I could use a different one, but I don't want to use a different one. I want to get that one back into proper condition. That is a $300 ASUS enthusiast motherboard and I want it perfect.

Is there any safe and good methods for picking out dust out of a PCI-E slot? I need to know. And I need to know very badly.
 
Well, as a reaction to overheating I decided to invest in buying a new computer case. I'm replacing my current main build tower, my Antect Nine Hundred Two, a mid tower case, which was getting a lot of dust and was kinda small for my large motherboard anyway(there's barely room to plug in SATA drives to the motherboard). With an NZXT case, in particular this one. I know it isn't recommended, but I like the case. It has a nice white colour, and it appears to have better cooling and dust prevention than my Antec case.

And more importantly, it's a full tower. Which gives me much better room and won't have as much direct heat from the PSU hitting my GPU. It's also one of the highest rated cases on Newegg. The fact that it's big, white(opposed to all of the electronics today which are black), good looking(in my personal taste, you probably disagree), has better cooling, and has some of the highest reviews on Newegg all makes it seem like it is an upgrade to me.

I still have one problem though. I still haven't fixed one of the problems from one of the questions I asked in the thread earlier. There's still dust stuck in my PCI-E slot that I previously had. And I haven't gotten it out yet. Of course, I could use a different one, but I don't want to use a different one. I want to get that one back into proper condition. That is a $300 ASUS enthusiast motherboard and I want it perfect.

Is there any safe and good methods for picking out dust out of a PCI-E slot? I need to know. And I need to know very badly.

Did you try blowing it out with canned air?
 

Koroviev

Member
Well, as a reaction to overheating I decided to invest in buying a new computer case. I'm replacing my current main build tower, my Antect Nine Hundred Two, a mid tower case, which was getting a lot of dust and was kinda small for my large motherboard anyway(there's barely room to plug in SATA drives to the motherboard). With an NZXT case, in particular this one. I know it isn't recommended, but I like the case. It has a nice white colour, and it appears to have better cooling and dust prevention than my Antec case.

And more importantly, it's a full tower. Which gives me much better room and won't have as much direct heat from the PSU hitting my GPU. It's also one of the highest rated cases on Newegg. The fact that it's big, white(opposed to all of the electronics today which are black), good looking(in my personal taste, you probably disagree), has better cooling, and has some of the highest reviews on Newegg all makes it seem like it is an upgrade to me.

I still have one problem though. I still haven't fixed one of the problems from one of the questions I asked in the thread earlier. There's still dust stuck in my PCI-E slot that I previously had. And I haven't gotten it out yet. Of course, I could use a different one, but I don't want to use a different one. I want to get that one back into proper condition. That is a $300 ASUS enthusiast motherboard and I want it perfect.

Is there any safe and good methods for picking out dust out of a PCI-E slot? I need to know. And I need to know very badly.

Compressed air?
 

Anton668

Member
I still have one problem though. I still haven't fixed one of the problems from one of the questions I asked in the thread earlier. There's still dust stuck in my PCI-E slot that I previously had. And I haven't gotten it out yet. Of course, I could use a different one, but I don't want to use a different one. I want to get that one back into proper condition. That is a $300 ASUS enthusiast motherboard and I want it perfect.

Is there any safe and good methods for picking out dust out of a PCI-E slot? I need to know. And I need to know very badly.

your question was answered pages ago. compressed air
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
I've always liked how the Phantom looked.

Aren't you still on a Core 2 Duo / Core 2 Quad though? I'd upgrade your hardware before case. Grab some compressed air like I said before.
 

Addnan

Member
I'm the process of overclocking my video card. Got my core clock to +100 and it can run Heaven maxed out, the new 3D Mark, but if I try 3d mark 11 it crashes in the scene with the antec car in the jungle. What's up with that?
 

MisterNoisy

Member
Well, as a reaction to overheating I decided to invest in buying a new computer case. I'm replacing my current main build tower, my Antect Nine Hundred Two, a mid tower case, which was getting a lot of dust and was kinda small for my large motherboard anyway(there's barely room to plug in SATA drives to the motherboard). With an NZXT case, in particular this one. I know it isn't recommended, but I like the case. It has a nice white colour, and it appears to have better cooling and dust prevention than my Antec case.

And more importantly, it's a full tower. Which gives me much better room and won't have as much direct heat from the PSU hitting my GPU. It's also one of the highest rated cases on Newegg. The fact that it's big, white(opposed to all of the electronics today which are black), good looking(in my personal taste, you probably disagree), has better cooling, and has some of the highest reviews on Newegg all makes it seem like it is an upgrade to me.

I still have one problem though. I still haven't fixed one of the problems from one of the questions I asked in the thread earlier. There's still dust stuck in my PCI-E slot that I previously had. And I haven't gotten it out yet. Of course, I could use a different one, but I don't want to use a different one. I want to get that one back into proper condition. That is a $300 ASUS enthusiast motherboard and I want it perfect.

Is there any safe and good methods for picking out dust out of a PCI-E slot? I need to know. And I need to know very badly.

The Phantom has a lot of features and does a lot of things pretty well (in particular, it's got TONS of room in there), but dust mitigation isn't one of them out of the box. You can pick up some aftermarket filters for it or mod/improvise, though.

I'd wager that one of the DataVac electric blowers would make quick work of the dust in that slot if regular canned air won't do it - if that thing can't get it out of there, you'll need to try something like gentle use of a nylon brush or similar, I'd imagine.
 

Rufus

Member
I wasn't aware of this. In any case, there is no way that my headphone cord is reaching all the way from the back of the case to my desk without being very taut :(
I finally got annoyed enough with the static to switch to the back inputs. So now I use the onboard audio for my 2.1 speakers and my Asus Xonar DG for my headphones. I use the cable of some old Sennheiser headphones I had laying around as an extension.
The only hassle that's added is that I have to switch devices in Windows if I want to go between the speakers and the headphones.
 

haikira

Member
yes, 2GB per GPU as with any SLI/Crossfire setup

Thanks. Quite pleased to hear that. I decided on buying a second 2GB 670, which just arrived, rather than selling my first towards a 690. Thought i was missing out on those 2GB of video memory. Thanks a lot, that makes me a lot happier =D.
 
Aren't you still on a Core 2 Duo / Core 2 Quad though? I'd upgrade your hardware before case. Grab some compressed air like I said before.
Just for future reference, this is my current main computer build as of currently.

- NZXT Phantom PHAN-001WT White Steel
Which I just posted and is replacing my Antec Nine Hundred Two case
- ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE LGA 1155 Intel Z77 motherboard
- Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge CPU
Currently with stock heatsink, soon to possibly be replaced by this heatsink which I recently bought:
+ ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B
- G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
- XFX Black Edition HD-687A-ZDBC Radeon HD 6870 1GB GPU
- CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE PSU
- SAMSUNG 830 Series MZ-7PC064B/WW 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive
- 4x 2TB HDD drives
+ 1 Samsung, 2 Seagate, 1 Hitachi
- And Windows 7 64-Bit, of course.

My thoughts on possible future upgrades.
- A smaller heatsink if my ZALMAN is big enough to be dangerous to carry the case around.
- Getting around to putting the ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX-B in my case as my new heatsink. If it is safe and not too heavy. I don't want to have to worry about carrying the case as damaging the system
- Replacing my Intel 2500K with an Intel Core i7-3770k. Which is the best CPU I can currently get on my LGA 1155 motherboard.
- Replacing my XFX HD 6870 with an XFX Double D FX-797A-TDBC Radeon HD 7970Black Edition 3GB
- Getting a second HD 7970 and crossfiring it. All depends on how much money I have and how soon the 8000 series comes out.
- An internal capture card capable of recording and casting PlayStation 3 gaming onto my PC desktop with low latency. I was looking into a Hauppauge Colossus for that. I want to play next gen console games on my PC, even if it is just through a capture card.
- Possibly investing in more hard drives and a raid card. Because I use a lot of data.
- Invest in a more reliable or higher capacity SSD

And that's it. There's really not many more upgrades I could do beyond that as technology currently sits. Technically I could buy a GeForce Titan and an LGA 2011 motherboard to put Intel's latest and absolute greatest CPU in short of a high end server CPU. But that would be a pointless waste of money that I could spend on video games while technology gets better anyway.
 

Koroviev

Member
Since this is basically technical GAF... I'm going to be taking an inventory of all of the PC hardware and software at work, some 350+ workstations. Currently most of this data is stored in a flat file, but I'm thinking that a database of workstation "id cards" would be a more logical way of viewing and interfacing with this information.

The spreadsheets will be maintained for the purpose of data storage and reviewing where we have free space for new workstations, but I'm wondering if it is worth the effort to improve the visual format of this data. The spreadsheets are okay now, but they're only becoming more unwieldy as we add fields.
 

haikira

Member
Just got my second 670 installed, but the option to SLI is greyed out. After googling, it's nearly unanimous i should wipe current drivers and re install. But i swear to god, windows 8 won't give me a chance. It keeps auto updating my drivers. I've even tried doing this.


Still keeps auto installing them. /cry
 
Just got my second 670 installed, but the option to SLI is greyed out. After googling, it's nearly unanimous i should wipe current drivers and re install. But i swear to god, windows 8 won't give me a chance. It keeps auto updating my drivers. I've even tried doing this.



Still keeps auto installing them. /cry

you changed that second option as well right?
 

scogoth

Member
Just got my second 670 installed, but the option to SLI is greyed out. After googling, it's nearly unanimous i should wipe current drivers and re install. But i swear to god, windows 8 won't give me a chance. It keeps auto updating my drivers. I've even tried doing this.



Still keeps auto installing them. /cry

go to device manager, uninstall the GTX670 driver and check the box that says delete the driver for this device. Reboot, download latest from nvidia and install.

Honestly just running the nvidia installer and selecting clean install has always worked for me.
 

LordAlu

Member
Just got my second 670 installed, but the option to SLI is greyed out. After googling, it's nearly unanimous i should wipe current drivers and re install. But i swear to god, windows 8 won't give me a chance. It keeps auto updating my drivers. I've even tried doing this.



Still keeps auto installing them. /cry
But... this is still set to automatic? You need to choose to never install from Windows Update.

go to device manager, uninstall the GTX670 driver and check the box that says delete the driver for this device. Reboot, download latest from nvidia and install.

Honestly just running the nvidia installer and selecting clean install has always worked for me.
This should work fine even with the Windows drivers installed.
 

bro1

Banned
Just got my second 670 installed, but the option to SLI is greyed out. After googling, it's nearly unanimous i should wipe current drivers and re install. But i swear to god, windows 8 won't give me a chance. It keeps auto updating my drivers. I've even tried doing this.



Still keeps auto installing them. /cry

unplug your Ethernet cord or turn your wireless off. Unistall the driver and then install the driver.
 

Talents

Banned
My friend wants to build a computer that's capable of playing games like TERA at max settings on over 30 fps. His resolution will be 1920x1080, his budget is about £700. Can you guys help make a build for him please? He won't be editing or streaming or whatever, just gaming. He's thinking of getting the AMD FX 6100 processor but other than that he doesn't really know what to get.
 

scogoth

Member
My friend wants to build a computer that's capable of playing games like TERA at max settings on over 30 fps. His resolution will be 1920x1080, his budget is about £700.

Help us help you. Read op

TqJPJ7L.png


If you want help with a build fill this out AND try making one of your own from the resources in the OP :)
Use PCPartPickerhttp://pcpartpicker.com/ to find the best prices and have a nice list of parts (Check if items are in stock!). I highly recommend Amazon, Newegg, and NCIXUS in North America.

Basic Desktop Questions:
  • Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM (DDR2/DDR3) / Motherboard / GPU (Graphics) / PSU (Power Supply) / Case
  • Budget: Price Range + Country
  • Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, HD Streaming, 3D/Model work, General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback).
  • Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later? Are you buying a new monitor?
  • List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: Is 30FPS acceptable? 60? 120? Will you use CUDA accelerated software?
  • Looking to reuse any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX 520W, 640GB SATA HDD, Antec 900)
  • When will you build?: What time frames are doable? Are you building this weekend? Do you need it in a week or so? Can you wait a month or two?
  • Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes!)

PICKING YOUR PARTS
Vnp7oxv.png


Anandtech's 'Bench' CPU and GPU Benchmarks - A great resource. Helpful for getting a general idea of performance or comparing hardware.
How much power do I really need? - For Low-Mid systems a good PSU with 380W on the 12V is enough. For Mid-High systems a solid 550W is enough due to lower power use now.
Above that 650W-750W for systems looking for dual GPUs. 850W-1200W for enthusiasts. Check the News + Review section below for more info on PSUs.


NeoGAF PC Builds:
Vnp7oxv.png

Mkenyon's Small Form Factor Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/GAFSFF



Hazaro's PC Build Sheet - http://bit.ly/GAFPC2013
 

Koroviev

Member
My friend wants to build a computer that's capable of playing games like TERA at max settings on over 30 fps. His resolution will be 1920x1080, his budget is about £700. Can you guys help make a build for him please? He won't be editing or streaming or whatever, just gaming. He's thinking of getting the AMD FX 6100 processor but other than that he doesn't really know what to get.

AMD processors are lousy. He'd be better off with an i3 at a minimum.
 

haikira

Member
Update about the 670 SLI. First off, that screencap wasn't actually mine. I had set it, like you guys said i should have. I also tried turning off my router, but it still updated somehow. Perhaps it keeps a back up?


I just tried this.

Went back to one card, uninstalled Physx in control panel, uninstalled drivers in device manager (I also ticked the box to delete driver), turned off pc, installed second card, turned on pc and installed latest drivers and then restarted one last time.

This time i got a message on the bottom right of the desktop saying something about SLI now being available. But in the Nvidia Control Panel, it's still greyed out. No idea what to try now.

EDIT: Specs

Motherboard ASUS P8P67 PRO (REV 3.1)
CPU 2500k
GPU Gigabyte GTX 670 OC 2 GB
Memory G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V
Case Coolermaster HAF 932 Advanced Case
PSU Corsair TX850w
 
Update about the 670 SLI. First off, that screencap wasn't actually mine. I had set it, like you guys said i should have. I also tried turning off my router, but it still updated somehow. Perhaps it keeps a back up?


I just tried this.

Went back to one card, uninstalled Physx in control panel, uninstalled drivers in device manager (I also ticked the box to delete driver), turned off pc, installed second card, turned on pc and installed latest drivers and then restarted one last time.

This time i got a message on the bottom right of the desktop saying something about SLI now being available. But in the Nvidia Control Panel, it's still greyed out. No idea what to try now.

Are you running multiple monitors? I had a similar issue, and there are only certain configurations that will work when attempting to run SLI (like which ports to plug into). Make sure you follow this guide hooking things up.

3D Surround Configuration Tool
 
Not worth it for gaming. An i3 will be better.

Battlefield 3 Multiplayer and Crysis 3 disagrees. i5 (3570k) is a little more realistic when talking about going forward with a CPU in games, and a much better dollar for dollar comparison. Gun to my head I'd take a 8350 over an i3 pretty much every time.
 
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