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[SquiddyCracker]

I love the look of the Bitfenix Prodigy, but after having seen it in real life I've realized that it's way too big for my needs (need to be able to fit it into a suitcase so that I can bring it with me as I travel).
Looking at the CM Elite 120 and SG08 instead as per the OP, but it's just such a shame because of how much more restrictive they are.

 

[Hazaro]

when would i overclock?

When you understand what you want out of it and why you are doing it.

I love the look of the Bitfenix Prodigy, but after haven seen it in real life I've realized that it's way too big for my needs (need to be able to fit it into a suitcase so that I can bring it with me as I travel).
Looking at the CM Elite 120 and SG08 instead as per the OP, but it's just such a shame because of how much more restrictive they are.

SG09 isn't really limiting

 

[SquiddyCracker]

When you understand what you want out of it and why you are doing it.

SG09 isn't really limiting

Almost as big as the Prodigy, and then I might as well go for the prodigy
(SG08 is the first case in the comparison I think).

 

[TimeEffect]

i cant run max game settings without overclocking? im not seeing the purpose. woukd like to save $40 but will go by GAFs word

 

[kennah]

Check the Titan thread. You can't run BF3 max settings for less than $3,000. But overclocking will help stretch your dollar. It is why that processor was recommended to you

 

[sixghost]

i cant run max game settings without overclocking? im not seeing the purpose. woukd like to save $40 but will go by GAFs word

Some games are very CPU dependent, like Planetside 2, Total War games, Civ V, or Starcraft 2, and might require you to overclock to run the game better. Most games are more GPU dependent and you'll be find at the normal clock speed.

 

[Kipp]

Check the Titan thread. You can't run BF3 max settings for less than $3,000. But overclocking will help stretch your dollar. It is why that processor was recommended to you

To be fair, I think that was maxing BF3 at 120fps in the Titan thread if I remember correctly.

 

[kennah]

Shh.

 

[Kipp]

Shh.

 

[RibbedHero]

To be fair, I think that was maxing BF3 at 120fps in the Titan thread if I remember correctly.

Even then, you should be able to max it at 120fps with two 670s; at least I am able to when I use my second 670.

 

[Kipp]

Even then, you should be able to max it at 120fps with two 670s; at least I am able to when I use my second 670.

Yeah. Here's the specific post btw:

Finally...I have the perfect BF3 rig. I have been searching for this since the games launch. 2-way SLI 580s, tri-SLI 680s, 4-way SLI 680s (reference, FTW+, Classified), 2-way SLI 680s (Lightning, 690) with varying CPUs (2500k, 3820, 3930k, 3960x) all clocked over 4.5 GHz...all it took was 3-way SLI TITANS to do it, lol.

1080p/120hz - flawless, butter smooth, no dips below 110...usually around 180-190 fps. 3930k @ 4.7GHz for the CPU. It's unbelievable. So happy right now. I don't even know if I am going to try NV Surround (3x 1080p/120hz aka 5760x1080/120hz) since it will be unlikely that I can achieve this nirvana at that resolution...I guess in another gen or two.

 

[TimHortons]

So here it is built

So yeah that R4 case is a beast, 1st case that I can run wires behind the mobo for a clean look. The SSD could have been mounted back there as well but has to be done BEFORE installing the mobo. Did some slight OC to 4.4 and in prime its running low 80c other benchmarks the CPU hits around 65c so seems normal on air. Guess I test further later.

 

[theytookourjobz]

How do I go about cleaning the dust out of my PC with compressed air?

 

[RibbedHero]

Yeah. Here's the specific post btw:

Odd that sketch needed SLI Titans, how come he wasn't able to do it with his SLI 680s? Maybe he's downsampling from 1440p and wasn't able to hit 120fps. It should definitely be possible with SLI 670s:

At 1920x1200, and pre OC:

 

[SquiddyCracker]

How do I go about cleaning the dust out of my PC with compressed air?

Just spray at the dust, it won't break.

 

[Hazaro]

So here it is built


So yeah that R4 case is a beast, 1st case that I can run wires behind the mobo for a clean look. The SSD could have been mounted back there as well but has to be done BEFORE installing the mobo. Did some slight OC to 4.4 and in prime its running low 80c other benchmarks the CPU hits around 65c so seems normal on air. Guess I test further later.

80C is high. I'm guessing you are on auto voltage?
OC Guide is in the 2nd post.

Odd that sketch needed SLI Titans, how come he wasn't able to do it with his SLI 680s? Maybe he's downsampling from 1440p and wasn't able to hit 120fps. It should definitely be possible with SLI 670s:

At 1920x1200, and pre OC:

I'm guessing he is actually playing real MP. Probably more than 4xAA or he is talking about minimums of 100+FPS.

 

[MisterNoisy]

So here it is built


So yeah that R4 case is a beast, 1st case that I can run wires behind the mobo for a clean look. The SSD could have been mounted back there as well but has to be done BEFORE installing the mobo. Did some slight OC to 4.4 and in prime its running low 80c other benchmarks the CPU hits around 65c so seems normal on air. Guess I test further later.

Pretty, and pretty solid cabling.

 

[Coldsnap]

None of my USB devices are working! Computer boots right to Windows 8 front page, mouse doesn't work, keyboard doesn't work, USB wifi card isn't blinking. Computer just sits on the screen and I can't do anything because none of my input devices work.. so frustrating, what is even wrong?

edit: WTF all devices are recognized in BIOS, boot to computer and nothing still works

 

[RibbedHero]

80C is high. I'm guessing you are on auto voltage?
OC Guide is in the 2nd post.

I'm guessing he is actually playing real MP. Probably more than 4xAA or he is talking about minimums of 100+FPS.

Yeah, it's got to be the minimum. When I grab my second 670 from my other PC I can hit around 130 average in SLI. It does very occasionally dip to the 80-100 region in MP.

I love me some 120fps, so I'm not sure if I'd be 100% happy if SLI 670s were my permanent setup and I can see why Sketch was pushing for more. Still, Tri-SLI 680s werent enough?

 

[Stuggernaut]

Well I finally pulled the trigger...parts on the way to mkenyon for assembly ... he was very patient with my slow ass decision making.

Can't wait

 

[Ryaaan14]

No one replied earlier, but what are the recommendations for USB boot OS's right now on new systems? Windows 8 or Windows 7 from (?)?

 

[TimeEffect]

Well, GAF, I finally did it. I am finally the Master Race.

Used the "Can You Run It" program to see that I can run games like BF3 to max settings... I did not install the recommended 212 cooling fan you all were adamant about.

I do intend to install PlanetSide 2, hopefully everything will be fine.

I feel so incredibly FREE and LIMITLESS. And I'm oogling Steam and Origin and wondering what I could buy with all this power.

HUGE HUGE HUGE thanks to all those who helped me, I apologize if I appeared stubborn or asked some pretty senseless questions-- I was on my phone for the past couple of posts so my comments may have looked blunt. Thank you to the OP for the guide, and to all of you who dedicate time to helping out with this thing. Much appreciated!

Couple of scrubbish questions:

I'd like to separate my account from the rest of my family. I am the admin, and I set up a secondary standard account (W7). I put a password on mine. Now, can I download things into my C and D drives without users on another account seeing those files? Is what I do on this Windows log in completely private?

Also, I generally use Chrome on my MAC, but have been using Firefox here... Should I go back to Chrome?

Anything else you guys recommend me doing?

 

[Koroviev]

No one replied earlier, but what are the recommendations for USB boot OS's right now on new systems? Windows 8 or Windows 7 from (?)?

They should both boot from USB without issue if you use the right software.

 

[Ryaaan14]

They should both boot from USB without issue if you use the right software.

More talking about which system would be better (and really cheap), not which is capable. Meh.

 

[teh_pwn]

None of my USB devices are working! Computer boots right to Windows 8 front page, mouse doesn't work, keyboard doesn't work, USB wifi card isn't blinking. Computer just sits on the screen and I can't do anything because none of my input devices work.. so frustrating, what is even wrong?

edit: WTF all devices are recognized in BIOS, boot to computer and nothing still works

Some motherboards are weird about USB compatibility, especially some USB 3.0 compatibility. But it's usually an issue in BIOS or in OSes that aren't native USB 3.0.

Try different ports. Try a USB 2.0 connector on the motherboard (you may need to borrow and old case, hook it's front panel connector up, and then use it from there). Then use the motherboard CD to install all of the USB drivers.

I'm really surprised Windows 8 isn't working with USB plug in play.

No one replied earlier, but what are the recommendations for USB boot OS's right now on new systems? Windows 8 or Windows 7 from (?)?

I cannot really recommend anything because I've used several motherboards, and some just won't play nice with bootable USB devices.

 

[Smokey]

Yeah, it's got to be the minimum. When I grab my second 670 from my other PC I can hit around 130 average in SLI. It does very occasionally dip to the 80-100 region in MP.

I love me some 120fps, so I'm not sure if I'd be 100% happy if SLI 670s were my permanent setup and I can see why Sketch was pushing for more. Still, Tri-SLI 680s werent enough?

He's referring to MP.

 

[teh_pwn]

I did not install the recommended 212 cooling fan you all were adamant about.

Why?

Intel's stock clock speed is due to pure laziness which is allowed due to no competition. The worst silicon lottery will OC to 4.2 GHz on Ivy. Set LLC to 100%, VCore to ~1.26-1.28V (you'll need to actually mess with it to find the ideal value), disable C states, set core ratio to 42, and you get something like a 25% CPU gain.

 

[Ryaaan14]

I cannot really recommend anything because I've used several motherboards, and some just won't play nice with bootable USB devices.

Sorry, just talking about initial install to HDD.

 

[teh_pwn]

Sorry, just talking about initial install to HDD.

Doesn't Microsoft have a tool?

 

[Skel1ingt0n]

SM5 is quite amazing. I'll be starting a build log of mine in the next couple of days. Will link

Oh, didn't know that was the one you were going with. Yeah, can't wait to see your build log. If you're getting it, then I know it has to be some good stuff.

Super nice!

Thanks! I'm really happy with it, thus far.

What are your PC's specs? I've seen you in the Macintosh thread and still love your desk.

Hey, thanks! It's just a simple Z-Line or some other from Staples. Was like $100. I actually had a really nice custom oak desk built for me while in college... might have a pic of it somewhere. But it doesn't match my decor at all. For $100, the glass desk I'm using now is pretty great. And even more than a year later, it looks like new.

I don't have 1/10th the specs of a lot of users here, unfortunately. i7 930 @ 3.6, OC'D GTX570, 12GB RAM, 128 & 64GB SSDs. That said, it still works pretty well. Can play anything, but definitely have to turn down the settings, expecially in the big pushers like BF3, Witcher 2, Crysis 3, etc.

EDIT: Ah, from my college APT:

EDIT 2: And before anyone makes fun - I got a killer deal on that Alienware ;p End cost was less than $800/shipped. The video card (5870) and CPU (930) cost nearly that at the time; it would have cost me significantly more to build it myself.

EDIT 3: Haha, not that anyone cares at all... but if the pic above was play, this was "work.":

Sifting through my old Flickr photos is fascinating...

EDIT 4: ... And the coolest thing to do with an old computer ever, my iMacquarium! Can't wait to have room for this again:

 

[Hazaro]

Well, GAF, I finally did it. I am finally the Master Race.

Used the "Can You Run It" program to see that I can run games like BF3 to max settings... I did not install the recommended 212 cooling fan you all were adamant about.

I do intend to install PlanetSide 2, hopefully everything will be fine.

I feel so incredibly FREE and LIMITLESS. And I'm oogling Steam and Origin and wondering what I could buy with all this power.

HUGE HUGE HUGE thanks to all those who helped me, I apologize if I appeared stubborn or asked some pretty senseless questions-- I was on my phone for the past couple of posts so my comments may have looked blunt. Thank you to the OP for the guide, and to all of you who dedicate time to helping out with this thing. Much appreciated!

Couple of scrubbish questions:

I'd like to separate my account from the rest of my family. I am the admin, and I set up a secondary standard account (W7). I put a password on mine. Now, can I download things into my C and D drives without users on another account seeing those files? Is what I do on this Windows log in completely private?

Also, I generally use Chrome on my MAC, but have been using Firefox here... Should I go back to Chrome?

Anything else you guys recommend me doing?

If you want to limit access, then put your data under your User folder (Library\My Documents). There's probably a neater way, but I've never had to do it.

Download some of the utilities in the OP. Firstly RealTemp and Prime95 or OCCT to test your CPU load. You want under 65C loaded.

 

[big_z]

Anyone here anal about pc noise? I'm looking to add two 140mm fans to my R4. I've tried the corsair af140 and they are trash. At 12v they are at least twice as loud as the stock case fans and at 7v they're still noisy.

Recommendations?

 

[TimHortons]

80C is high. I'm guessing you are on auto voltage?
OC Guide is in the 2nd post.

That's what I am using, doing CPU Core Voltage: Offset Mode +0.005v

Tried going higher but its not stable at all, would probably have to raise the Turbo voltage up a notch but the temps are already high. So going to keep it at 4.4 for now. I read others using this recent version of Prime hitting 80c under load as well. Ivy's max is 105c so not too concerned.

 

[Vossler]

In the middle of moving my innards from a mid to full tower....have an i5 2500k, and a p67 mobo...just bought new memory and will be running sli 670's...would moving to a z68 or x79 mobo be worth it?

 

[Iacobellis]

Oh, didn't know that was the one you were going with. Yeah, can't wait to see your build log. If you're getting it, then I know it has to be some good stuff.



Thanks! I'm really happy with it, thus far.



Hey, thanks! It's just a simple Z-Line or some other from Staples. Was like $100. I actually had a really nice custom oak desk built for me while in college... might have a pic of it somewhere. But it doesn't match my decor at all. For $100, the glass desk I'm using now is pretty great. And even more than a year later, it looks like new.

I don't have 1/10th the specs of a lot of users here, unfortunately. i7 930 @ 3.6, OC'D GTX570, 12GB RAM, 128 & 64GB SSDs. That said, it still works pretty well. Can play anything, but definitely have to turn down the settings, expecially in the big pushers like BF3, Witcher 2, Crysis 3, etc.

EDIT: Ah, from my college APT:

EDIT 2: And before anyone makes fun - I got a killer deal on that Alienware ;p End cost was less than $800/shipped. The video card (5870) and CPU (930) cost nearly that at the time; it would have cost me significantly more to build it myself.

EDIT 3: Haha, not that anyone cares at all... but if the pic above was play, this was "work.":

Sifting through my old Flickr photos is fascinating...

EDIT 4: ... And the coolest thing to do with an old computer ever, my iMacquarium! Can't wait to have room for this again:

Did you intentionally get items that match the color of the iMac?

 

[mkenyon]

EDIT 2: And before anyone makes fun - I got a killer deal on that Alienware ;p End cost was less than $800/shipped. The video card (5870) and CPU (930) cost nearly that at the time; it would have cost me significantly more to build it myself.

I was more concerned with that other white box next to it, TBH.

 

[Hazaro]

That's what I am using, doing CPU Core Voltage: Offset Mode +0.005v

Tried going higher but its not stable at all, would probably have to raise the Turbo voltage up a notch but the temps are already high. So going to keep it at 4.4 for now. I read others using this recent version of Prime hitting 80c under load as well. Ivy's max is 105c so not too concerned.

You could try having a negative offset, bet it can run cooler at that speed.

In the middle of moving my innards from a mid to full tower....have an i5 2500k, and a p67 mobo...just bought new memory and will be running sli 670's...would moving to a z68 or x79 mobo be worth it?

Depends what you want to do. For gaming, not really. Next real step up would be doing heavy processing on an i7 or 3930K to see any real benefit from the platform.

 

[mrklaw]

OS question. I have a voucher for a cheap upgrade to windows 8 when I bought my laptop. But it's a full install right? Technically would it be ok to install that on a new PC build?

 

[Koroviev]

OS question. I have a voucher for a cheap upgrade to windows 8 when I bought my laptop. But it's a full install right? Technically would it be ok to install that on a new PC build?

No, it's an upgrade key, but there's a work around to make it function like a full copy.

 

[Danj]

OS question. I have a voucher for a cheap upgrade to windows 8 when I bought my laptop. But it's a full install right? Technically would it be ok to install that on a new PC build?

No, because it's an upgrade voucher and your new build PC doesn't have a Windows 7 to upgrade from. Also during the process of claiming the upgrade don't they make you put in your existing Windows 7 key or something?

 

[Koroviev]

No, because it's an upgrade voucher and your new build PC doesn't have a Windows 7 to upgrade from. Also during the process of claiming the upgrade don't they make you put in your existing Windows 7 key or something?

No, it's not that intelligent. The installer simply looks for a Windows partition. The old OS doesn't even need to be activated. However, there is a work around that enables you to install an upgrade copy as if it were a full copy and activate it using a command prompt.

 

[mrklaw]

I am, I've quickly thrown this together as an idea of cost with good quality bits inside her

£902 for this build, but there is money to be saved from the PSU potentially and you could also choose a lesser SSD instead of the 840 Pro like the Kingston V300 240GB which would cut £20 off the price.

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/ICWv

Case I chose was the Shinobi but at that price level there is also the Corsair 200R which I myself have, the Zalman Z11 Plus and a few others.

Thanks, that's a great site to help put parts together. How about this?

http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/IJkX

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (£164.34 @ Aria PC)
Motherboard: Asus P8H77-I Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard (£80.01 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (£37.39 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (£173.99 @ Aria PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card (£307.98 @ Amazon UK)
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (White) Mini ITX Tower Case (£62.16 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (£69.84 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £895.71

Edit: I could save £75 by stepping done from a 256GB 840 pro to a 128Gb 840 pro. 256 probably wouldn't be big enough to put all my steam games on anyway, so should I keep it simple and have a smaller SSD for OS/apps and have the steamapps folder on the HDD? That'd bring be down to £820 ish

Thinking to rip out a 750GB drive from an old Maxtor one touch external drive I'm not using anymore, and putting windows 8 on it.

I'd like it to be quiet when on the desktop/idling, and not be a jet engine when gaming, so do I need a cooler and/or replacement case fans?

 

[Akai__]

Anyone here anal about pc noise? I'm looking to add two 140mm fans to my R4. I've tried the corsair af140 and they are trash. At 12v they are at least twice as loud as the stock case fans and at 7v they're still noisy.

Recommendations?

If I remember correctly, the AF fans aren't case fans. I think, they were radiator fans and therefore meant to push as much as possible air through the radiators. That's why they are louder. An other thing is, that 140mm fans are always a little louder, than the 120mm fans.

What you want, are the SF140's. Those are case fans, but I don't know, how silent they are, in comparison to the AF140's.

Someone correct me, if I'm wrong.

 

[longdi]

just be warned prodigy is quite a big casing, you may consider a matx build with something like a tj08e for better price/perf. for a -k cpu, z77 motherboard is a must.

 

[big_z]

If I remember correctly, the AF fans aren't case fans. I think, they were radiator fans and therefore meant to push as much as possible air through the radiators. That's why they are louder. An other thing is, that 140mm fans are always a little louder, than the 120mm fans.

What you want, are the SF140's. Those are case fans, but I don't know, how silent they are, in comparison to the AF140's.

Someone correct me, if I'm wrong.

you have it backwards the SP fans are for radiators since the blades are flatter which creates higher pressure. the af fans are the case fans according to corsair. technically they are okay in open air as the motor noise isnt bad but inside they create a lot of low level noise and sound a lot like a microwave.

i know 140mm fans at the same speed as a 120mm fan will be louder however my thermalright ty140 is quieter at 1100rpm than the corsairs are at 700rpm.

still looking for quiet 140mm fan recommendations. (more thermalrights is a no go as they are near extinct in canada now)

 

[mrklaw]

just be warned prodigy is quite a big casing, you may consider a matx build with something like a tj08e for better price/perf. for a -k cpu, z77 motherboard is a must.

Size should be ok if it's going in my home office area. Z77s are a bit expensive in that form factor - I'll look at some matx options but the prodigy is a lovely looking case.

It's a shame that horizontal cases (HTPC style) don't seem to be at popular - with PCs in the living room being more popular you'd think that form factor would be growing

 

[kharma45]

Size should be ok if it's going in my home office area. Z77s are a bit expensive in that form factor - I'll look at some matx options but the prodigy is a lovely looking case.

It's a shame that horizontal cases (HTPC style) don't seem to be at popular - with PCs in the living room being more popular you'd think that form factor would be growing

For £91 there is this http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009GB87N6/

Seems well reviewed but you can't seem to up the CPU voltage when OCing, so you'll not be able to push for the higher end OCs. From the reviews 4.5GHz is the highest I've seen with an IB CPU in it.

Reviews I found are here

TechPowerUp - 9.8

Expert Reviews - 5/5

Tech Report

Tweak Town - 95%

 

[ColonelColon]

Is it possible to damage a video card by lowering the voltage? I just lowered the voltage on my 7950 Boost (stock clocks) from 1.25V to 1.18V, and now I'm seeing stretched textures on some objects in Crysis 2.
Everything I'd read indicated this was safe. I just got this card yesterday.

 

[kharma45]

It is safe, just sounds like your card can't run those clocks with those volts.

 

[ColonelColon]

It is safe, just sounds like your card can't run those clocks with those volts.

I restored default voltage, and I'm still seeing warped textures in Crysis 2. Strangely enough, I only see the stretched textures when I load from a checkpoint. If I start the level from the beginning the textures are fine. But once I save and reload, the textures on a few specific objects are stretched as if the card's VRAM is damaged.