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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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A

asdad123

Member
Hmm I switched motherboards from the AsRock Extreme 4 to the Asus P8Z77-V. Should I reinstall windows?

Everything booted up fine and works without a graphics card, except for the USB headers in the motherboard. Is it because I didn't reinstall windows? I doubt that its broken headers since all 4 of them do not work. If so, I'll do that tonight.
 
Celcius

Celcius

°Temp. member
asdad123 said:
Hmm I switched motherboards from the AsRock Extreme 4 to the Asus P8Z77-V. Should I reinstall windows?

Everything booted up fine and works without a graphics card, except for the USB headers in the motherboard. Is it because I didn't reinstall windows? I doubt that its broken headers since all 4 of them do not work. If so, I'll do that tonight.
Click to expand...

Generally when swapping to a different mobo, it's a good idea to re-install windows.
(even those both of those use the Z77 chipset)
 
S

SquiddyCracker

Banned
DTKT said:
Prime95 doesn't represent real-life. No game will max out every core, you'd need some 1080P encoding for that. It's just a tool to simulate max load and check if the OC or the cooler is able to withstand the heat. If it's okay with Prime, it's going to be fine for pretty much anything else. As for numbers, I guess it depends on the CPU, your OC and the cooling solution. Between 60-70 seems like a reasonable goal for a mild OC and a good cooler.
Click to expand...

Alright, I'll keep that in mind if my Prime 95 simulation runs short.
Apperantly you need to run it for at least 10 hours, so we'll see how that goes.

Will probably try it some other day and play some intense games today and tomorrow instead.
 
T

t-ramp

Member
asdad123 said:
Hmm I switched motherboards from the AsRock Extreme 4 to the Asus P8Z77-V. Should I reinstall windows?

Everything booted up fine and works without a graphics card, except for the USB headers in the motherboard. Is it because I didn't reinstall windows? I doubt that its broken headers since all 4 of them do not work. If so, I'll do that tonight.
Click to expand...
If you open Device Manager, are there unrecognized USB Controllers?
 
S

SquiddyCracker

Banned
Getting max temperatures of 59-63 C for my CPU, 39 C for my GPU, 26 C for something called "Kingston DT 101 G2", and the following for a bunch of mobo components:

SYSTIN: 38 C
CPUTIN: 56 C
AUXTIN: 30 C
TMPIN3: 62 C

I have no idea what most of this means, but that's what the temperatures are at after an hour of the Prime95 program. Will keep on trucking, then rechecking after a couple of hours of Planetside 2/Witcher 2/Skyrim/etc.
 
M

Mr. Wonderful

Member
Hey GAF, ever since I updated my Nvidia GPU drivers last night, my Windows 8 machine makes a "device has been disconnected" sound whenever I get to the Start screen. Any idea what it might be doing, what has been changed, and what I should change?
 
S

-SD-

Banned
I've still got a dual core Intel CPU. Since PlayStation 4 and Xbox 3 will have 8 cores, I just decided that I'll upgrade my CPU only when Intel releases a CPU with 8 physical cores. Makes sense.

For the GPU part, I'll be sticking with NVIDIA.
 
K

kharma45

Member
-SD- said:
I've still got a dual core Intel CPU. Since PlayStation 4 and Xbox 3 will have 8 cores, I just decided that I'll upgrade my CPU only when Intel releases a CPU with 8 physical cores. Makes sense.

For the GPU part, I'll be sticking with NVIDIA.
Click to expand...

You'll be waiting a while, I can't see Intel releasing anything more than a 6 core with Ivy Bridge-E, plus there is no guarantee that just because the devs on console will be coding for an 8 core machine they'll all start doing it on PC, different APIs etc. make me doubtful we'll see anything more than quad core utilisation for quite a while.

As for the GPU fair enough but AMD is offering the better stuff generally across the board.
 
Koroviev

Koroviev

Member
Cross post from the mech thread...

I currently use a CM quickfire pro with browns at home and a full-size otaku Leopold with browns at work.

I'd like to get a tenkeyless for home use, and I'm thinking I might like to try red switches.

Here are some options I'm considering:

1. Noppoo Choc mini
2. Filco majesco... Kind of expensive and not sure where I'd find one, but it looks amazing.
3. CM quickfire rapid with custom keys since it's supposedly near identical to the filco

I'm open to other options, but those are the ones that have appealed to me thus far.
 
Xdrive05

Xdrive05

Member
Koroviev said:
Cross post from the mech thread...

I currently use a CM quickfire pro with browns at home and a full-size otaku Leopold with browns at work.

I'd like to get a tenkeyless for home use, and I'm thinking I might like to try red switches.

Here are some options I'm considering:

1. Noppoo Choc mini
2. Filco majesco... Kind of expensive and not sure where I'd find one, but it looks amazing.
3. CM quickfire rapid with custom keys

I'm open to other options, but those are the ones that have appealed to me thus far.
Click to expand...

I have Cherry Blues on a CM quickfire rapid, and I love it. It's well constructed, small sized but heavy and stays in place.

Newegg seems to be shipping the unbranded quickfire, or at least they were a few months ago (for the regular chblues one anyway).
 
M

mkenyon

Banned
Koroviev said:
Cross post from the mech thread...

I currently use a CM quickfire pro with browns at home and a full-size otaku Leopold with browns at work.

I'd like to get a tenkeyless for home use, and I'm thinking I might like to try red switches.

Here are some options I'm considering:

1. Noppoo Choc mini
2. Filco majesco... Kind of expensive and not sure where I'd find one, but it looks amazing.
3. CM quickfire rapid with custom keys since it's supposedly near identical to the filco

I'm open to other options, but those are the ones that have appealed to me thus far.
Click to expand...
I'd really suggest the KBT Race, Choc second, and then the Rapid as the best value.

*edit

You can find the KBT Race and more at www.tigerimports.net
 
Koroviev

Koroviev

Member
mkenyon said:
I'd really suggest the KBT Race, Choc second, and then the Rapid as the best value.

*edit

You can find the KBT Race and more at www.tigerimports.net
Click to expand...

Damn, it is hard to find reds in stock <:T

Frys has the Rapid with blues... Not entirely firm on switch type, but I think I'd like to try something other than browns. If I were to get the rapid, how much would it cost to replace the key caps?

How is the build quality of the Chocs lately? I've read that it can be a bit shoddy, including wobbly boards, but I love the aesthetic.
 
Alexios

Alexios

Cores, shaders and BIOS oh my!
Corsair Carbide 400R 99,80 &#8364;
Gigabyte Z77-D3H 114,49 &#8364;
Intel Core i7 3770K 309,90 &#8364;
Gigabyte HD7970 OC 395,00 &#8364;
Corsair Vengeance 1600 2x8GB 99,80 &#8364;

LG 22EA53VQ 138,57 &#8364; (this is the cheapest of this range I could find that still seems to offer HDMI)

LOGITECH Z323 2.1 42,41 &#8364;

CoolerMaster HTK-002-U1-GP 2,08 &#8364;

Total: 1202,05 &#8364;
 
S

Speedy Blue Dude

Banned
Well, I played Battlefield 3 on my new PC today. Running High at a steady 30 frames. Definitely need to get a better GPU.

Do you guys reckon a 7950 is a decent GPU?
 
D

demented

Member
Speedy Blue Dude said:
Well, I played Battlefield 3 on my new PC today. Running High at a steady 30 frames. Definitely need to get a better GPU.

Do you guys reckon a 7950 is a decent GPU?
Click to expand...

More than decent, it's great.
Also:
Do I need a new heatsink with my new PC? I'm not sure if I should upgrade because new ones I see look pretty much the same, I have this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003 and have been using it since October 2008 and it's been serving me fine so I'm not sure if I need to buy new one or just clean it and use it? Maybe change the fan but don't think there are any issues.
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
demented said:
More than decent, it's great.
Also:
Do I need a new heatsink with my new PC? I'm not sure if I should upgrade because new ones I see look pretty much the same, I have this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003 and have been using it since October 2008 and it's been serving me fine so I'm not sure if I need to buy new one or just clean it and use it? Maybe change the fan but don't think there are any issues.
Click to expand...

You got the same CPU? No need to upgrade the heatsink. Just dust that puppy off and be merry.
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
Speedy Blue Dude said:
Well, I played Battlefield 3 on my new PC today. Running High at a steady 30 frames. Definitely need to get a better GPU.

Do you guys reckon a 7950 is a decent GPU?
Click to expand...

Yeah I have a 7950, it's a beast and overclocks insanely. I play BF3 downsampled from 1440p on Ultra in single players I am getting about 60fps. I may have shadows turned down though.
 
D

demented

Member
Irobot82 said:
You got the same CPU? No need to upgrade the heatsink. Just dust that puppy off and be merry.
Click to expand...

No, I will be changing the CPU, along with motherboard, graphics card, SSD and ram so pretty much everything. Also gonna change some fans in case that I turned of because they started making annoying noises but not gonna invest too much into that.
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
demented said:
No, I will be changing the CPU, along with motherboard, graphics card, SSD and ram so pretty much everything. Also gonna change some fans in case that I turned of because they started making annoying noises but not gonna invest too much into that.
Click to expand...

So that heatsink it says

All Intel Socket 775 CPU
Core 2 Extreme / Quad / Duo
Pentium Extreme Edition / D
Celeron D

All AMD Socket AM2 / 754 / 939 / 940 CPU
Athlon 64 / FX / X2 / Opteron / Sempron

So, I am assuming you are upgrading to Ivy Bridge or Sandy Bridge? If that's the case, then yes you probably need a new heatsink as the holes wont match up. Get this.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

It's cheap and one of the best you can get.

Or since you are upgrading you can get a sweet water block closed loop. They free up room and airflow in your case and look super sexy.
 
D

demented

Member
Ooh right, oh well new one it is. Thanks :)

Thought about water cooling but people told me it's too much work, clean this, water proof that, do this do that every so often hm
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
demented said:
Ooh right, oh well new one it is. Thanks :)

Thought about water cooling but people told me it's too much work, clean this, water proof that, do this do that every so often hm
Click to expand...

Nah, the CPU cooling ones are super easy. No cleaning, no water proofing. They are also super easy to install. I use a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106188

On sale for $40 after MIR. GREAT DEAL.


Tell me that isn't sexy.
 
Irobot82

Irobot82

Member
kennah said:
Wont' even post.

Do I need to disable things like Spread Spectrum or other stuff?
Click to expand...

Well I can say on my Z77 motherboard and IB CPU I disabled all my C states and Speed Spectrum. Try googling overclocking your CPU. It should be pretty easy.
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
The more PCs I build, the more cautious I get. Especially motherboards. It's like 10% are defective in various ways.

My advice is to test shutdown/startup before getting too comfy. I got hit by a motherboard that failed to shutdown completely and was only able to start back up by physically removing power and waiting a minute and reconnecting.

If you're buying lots of motherboards, I recommend buying locally. They're that bad.

Luckily windows will be just fine after doing sort of a "Hi, checkout windows 8...hit desktop, manually reactivate". It's like sysprep is built into Windows 8.

kennah said:
Nothing crazy. 42 with 1.3V.
Click to expand...

That's typically way more than you need with Ivy, unless your LLC is low. Some CPUs are stubborn though.

Another thing I recommend doing with OC is ghosting your system prior to doing it. If you bluescreen, who the hell knows what Windows is doing and if you corrupted your OS. Why risk it, restore after you get to a stable OC.
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
kennah said:
2550K. 3.4GHz stock. That's only an 800mhz overclock. Should be able to do it without a sweat.
Click to expand...

Oh nevermind, Sandy's different.

I was just suggesting your VCore was too high for the OC target. But you're using Sandy which tends to need more voltage.
 
K

kennah

Member
teh_pwn said:
Oh nevermind, Sandy's different.

I was just suggesting your VCore was too high for the OC target. But you're using Sandy which tends to need more voltage.
Click to expand...

Huh, ok, so I guess I just shouldn't trust the BIOS. CPUZ tells me that it is currently running at 4.1GHz

Koroviev said:
I think I've decided on the CM Rapid with blues and I may very well end up replacing some or all of the key caps.
Click to expand...

That's the spirit!
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
kennah said:
Huh, ok, so I guess I just shouldn't trust the BIOS. CPUZ tells me that it is currently running at 4.1GHz
Click to expand...

Some motherboards keep an auto turbo ratio with a peak turbo value, but typically you can force it to be precisely the turbo ratio you want.

I also think the default turbo boost behavior is that active threads are parked around different cores rapidly to dissipate heat. If you're not using all 4 cores you may see your core frequency fluctuate.
 
K

kennah

Member
teh_pwn said:
Some motherboards keep an auto turbo ratio with a peak turbo value, but typically you can force it to be precisely the turbo ratio you want.
Click to expand...

Yeah, turns out I was just reading the wrong stuff. Windows appears to be stable at 4.6GHz, 1.4V, 100Bus. Fails Prime 95 though. So still tweaking.

If I go up to 4.7 I get bluescreens from Prime.

Didn't go any higher than 65 degrees under load.
 
T

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
kennah said:
Yeah, turns out I was just reading the wrong stuff. Windows appears to be stable at 4.6GHz, 1.4V, 100Bus. Fails Prime 95 though. So still tweaking.
Click to expand...

That's more advanced territory. Certain settings will make things unstable, like C states. Also some motherboards do better with lower LLC and higher VCore, others with max LLC and lower VCore. You're going to have to tinker and lookup your specific motherboard.

Prime95 failing means you've got a ways to go. You want Prime95 + linpack with AVX passing before you play games to give it the final test.

You may not be able to get 4.6 GHz stable. Sometimes you luck out and get a chip that just cannot do it, even if it stays cool.
 
S

SquiddyCracker

Banned
I ran it for 4 hours, but you should do it for at least 10 hours apperantly (ideally, 24).

Played some Planetside 2 at maximum settings/vsync/etc and it ran butter smooth. CPU was at 43C and GPU at 60 C.

That good?

Need to check how to enable FPS-counter in-game.
 
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