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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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knitoe

Member
What did confuse me about using MSI's BIOS compared to the Gigabyte BIOS demonstrated from OP's Overclock3D.net overclocking link was that I couldn't find the option for adjusting CPU ratios for each core. TTL in the Youtube video did set each core, for what it's worth. Moreover, I couldn't set a direct voltage number on MSI's BIOS, can only add increments, e.g., +0.02V, +0.04V, etc.

I haven't use any MSI or Gigabyte MBs so I can't tell you, but guessing from MSI settings, CPU ratio is where you enter 40 = 4.0GHz, 45 = 4.5GHz and etc. And, that will apply to all cores. And, you don't want to set a direct voltage number. It's better to use offset, -+0.02 and etc. This will allow the CPU to downclock and use less voltages when running slower speeds. For example, lets say 4.5GHz@1.27V. When the CPU downclocks/idles to 1.6GHz, the voltage will drop to 1.00V. If you set a direct voltage number, the CPU will always use that amount of power no matter it's current speed.
 

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
What did confuse me about using MSI's BIOS compared to the Gigabyte BIOS demonstrated from OP's Overclock3D.net overclocking link was that I couldn't find the option for adjusting CPU ratios for each core. TTL in the Youtube video did set each core, for what it's worth. Moreover, I couldn't set a direct voltage number on MSI's BIOS, can only add increments, e.g., +0.02V, +0.04V, etc.

bo7caBu.jpg

There's very little standardization with these BIOS. I'm not even sure what they all mean.

In some motherboards you can control VCore with:
1. Fixed voltage
2. Offset voltage

But under load the voltage doesn't even hit what you want, which is why there's Load Line Calibration which attempts to calibrate the voltage droop under load out. At 100% LLC, setting VCore fixed to 1.3V would result in 1.3V. But without LLC it could be 1.22V.

As for the turbo ratios, some motherboards have a setting for the turbo ratio for all cores. Others, like Gigabyte's, allow for turbo ratio of individual cores. Not sure why that's useful.

Generally you can find overclock forum topics for your specific motherboard, but the lack of granularity with your options suggests you have an entry level overclockable motherboard. You'll find a lot more people using Z77 ASRock, ASUS, Gigabyte. I've seen some MSIs, but not as many.

Personally I think ASUS's BIOS is the cleanest, best organized, and has the best mouse support. Gigabyte's is thorough but wildly disorganized (Advanced Frequency Settings, Advanced Voltage Settings, 3D voltage...aghhhh). And the worst part of Gigabyte's BIOS is that it defaults the number pad off, and hitting a number brings you to save/exit area.

I haven't use any MSI or Gigabyte MBs so I can't tell you, but guessing from MSI settings, CPU ratio is where you enter 40 = 4.0GHz, 45 = 4.5GHz and etc. And, that will apply to all cores. And, you don't want to set a direct voltage number. It's better to use offset, -+0.02 and etc. This will allow the CPU to downclock and use less voltages when running slower speeds. For example, lets say 4.5GHz@1.27V. When the CPU downclocks/idles to 1.6GHz, the voltage will drop to 1.00V. If you set a direct voltage number, the CPU will always use that amount of power no matter it's current speed.

That's kind of the weird thing about offset voltage. I guess that is the norm, but on some motherboards you explicitly give it to total target voltage and it scales based on load. Others display it as +/- 0.xxV. I prefer the explicit total voltage myself, which is typically 1.2-1.35V with Ivy OCs, depending on your cooling.
 

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
Yes it means the CPU failed to initialize

That's bad. So motherboard or bent pins? I'm guessing power could still be the cause too.

It's possible, but extremely unlikely the CPU is at fault. Unless you have an Ivy and your motherboard only supports Ivy after BIOS update. That's a bitch, but it happened to me with Z68.
 

scogoth

Member
That's bad. So motherboard or bent pins? I'm guessing power could still be the cause too.

It's possible, but extremely unlikely the CPU is at fault. Unless you have an Ivy and your motherboard only supports Ivy after BIOS update. That's a bitch, but it happened to me with Z68.

The 4 pin CPU connector is not plugged it only the 8 pin CPU connector. That motherboard requires both be plugged in. Not a huge issue just the complications of a high end board.

And the Ivy issue with Z68 is the reason ASUS's flashback feature (flash the bios with no CPU or RAM installed only power) is amazing.
 

Levito

Banned
Question For those of you with an SSD:

Do you have anything installed on your SSD aside from the OS? If so, what do you install on your SSD? More to the point, do yo think installing your games on an SSD is actually worth it?



I'm thinking about biting the bullet and finally getting one, right now I just have a couple 1TB HD's in RAID 0.
 

teh_pwn

"Saturated fat causes heart disease as much as Brawndo is what plants crave."
Question For those of you with an SSD:

Do you have anything installed on your SSD aside from the OS? If so, what do you install on your SSD? More to the point, do yo think installing your games on an SSD is actually worth it?



I'm thinking about biting the bullet and finally getting one, right now I just have a couple 1TB HD's in RAID 0.

Yes
OS + High end games.
I install older, lower end games to my RAID1 storage, which also has movies, music, very important long term documents, binary OS images.
It's worth it because load times are faster. Also if you're starting out a high end game near day 1 and you want to mess with settings and relaunch the game several times.

Samsung 840 250 GB is a good SSD for this sort of strategy right now. Sure the Pro has double write speed, but keep in mind for consumer use, your limited to network bandwidth and DVD/BDROM bandwidth (typically no more than 40 MB/s, which is still 5x slower than the non-Pro)
 

kennah

Member
Ssd plus Steam Mover

OS and programs on the ssd. But use steam mover to move whichever game you are playing the most back and forth from the ssd to slower storage
 

scogoth

Member
Question For those of you with an SSD:

Do you have anything installed on your SSD aside from the OS? If so, what do you install on your SSD? More to the point, do yo think installing your games on an SSD is actually worth it?



I'm thinking about biting the bullet and finally getting one, right now I just have a couple 1TB HD's in RAID 0.

OS most important. Apps that you use a lot next (Word, browser, etc). Games are a luxury. It only improves loading times. Very few games that use streaming textures (Civ5 for example) can benefit from being on a SSD.

That being said I have 2x 256GB SSDs in RAID 0 with everything on them
 

DeVeAn

Member
Okay need help. I installed the cooler master hyper 212 evo and used arctic silver. I am pretty sure I did it right but the BIOS came up and show the fan was maxed out in speed. I have ASUS motherboard. It's pretty damn quiet and the temp is at 39 C. I have. 2500K.

Is there something I am supposed to do with the fan speed?
 

scogoth

Member
Okay need help. I installed the cooler master hyper 212 evo and used arctic silver. I am pretty sure I did it right but the BIOS came up and show the fan was maxed out in speed. I have ASUS motherboard. It's pretty damn quiet and the temp is at 39 C. I have. 2500K.

Is there something I am supposed to do with the fan speed?

Did you plug a 3-pin fan into a 4-pin CPU fan header?

Another thing if it doesnt bother you then the fan running at 100% doesn't hurt anything.
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned
Found your problem. Sorry mkenyon was incorrect. You have to plug in both the 8 and 4pin connector at the top of the board labelled EATX12v_1 and EATX12V_2

From the manual


If that doesn't work can you get on skype or mumble for some more troubleshooting?



EDIT: also damn that does look good

Plugged in the 4 pin, didn't work. But I think I might have an idea. The mobo and cpu were a bundle that have been overclocked. Could this effect the ram if not enough power is being supplied to them? I noticed on the leds it's in fact the DRAM LED light which is red so I'm wondering if the ram is an issue.
 

scogoth

Member
Plugged in the 4 pin, didn't work. But I think I might have an idea. The mobo and cpu were a bundle that have been overclocked. Could this effect the ram if not enough power is being supplied to them? I noticed on the leds it's in fact the DRAM LED light which is red so I'm wondering if the ram is an issue.

Could be if he had increased BLCK or the RAM multiplier to run at a frequency that your RAM can't run at. Best to reset the CMOS, should be a button on the back to do that, I'll double check the manual.

Yep there is a clear CMOS button on the back panel


After that try booting if it STILL isn't working, hit the Go! Button immediately after hitting the power switch to start MemOK! which should solve any memory issues.
 

DeVeAn

Member
Did you plug a 3-pin fan into a 4-pin CPU fan header?

Another thing if it doesnt bother you then the fan running at 100% doesn't hurt anything.

Well didn't pay attention but, I plugged it into the one the stock cooler was in. Also I am only getting 4 degrees cooler than the stock cooler. Does is take a while for the thermal paste to settle?
 

scogoth

Member
Well didn't pay attention but, I plugged it into the one the stock cooler was in. Also I am only getting 4 degrees cooler than the stock cooler. Does is take a while for the thermal paste to settle?

Under load? or at idle. Idle temps mean nothing. Run Prime95 in the OS and use a temp monitoring software to see what the temps are (I use Open Hardware Monitor but there are many others in the op)
 

DeVeAn

Member
Under load? or at idle. Idle temps mean nothing. Run Prime95 in the OS and use a temp monitoring software to see what the temps are (I use Open Hardware Monitor but there are many others in the op)

Idle. Okay I will try Prime95. I have speed fan and real temp will those suffice?
 

knitoe

Member
Idle. Okay I will try Prime95. I have speed fan and real temp will those suffice?

Use HWmonitor. It will show your min/max/current temps. And, arctic silver takes awhile to settle. It's not really recommend for thermal paste. There are better options out there.
 

scogoth

Member
Idle. Okay I will try Prime95. I have speed fan and real temp will those suffice?

Yep

Use HWmonitor. It will show your min/max/current temps. And, arctic silver takes awhile to settle. Thus, it's not really recommend for thermal paste.

Temps will only drop ~1-3C not a huge amount. Its fine to test it now to make sure it was installed correctly

Edit: Dammit. Scogoth said everything I said but in a more efficient way. :p

Totally missed that ninja edit ;)
Yeah I'm bored so I'm mashing F5 on PC GAF
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned
Could be if he had increased BLCK or the RAM multiplier to run at a frequency that your RAM can't run at. Best to reset the CMOS, should be a button on the back to do that, I'll double check the manual.

Yep there is a clear CMOS button on the back panel


After that try booting if it STILL isn't working, hit the Go! Button immediately after hitting the power switch to start MemOK! which should solve any memory issues.

None of the ram was set in properly. :[

Now the red LED has moved to VGA_LED
laughing-smiley-016.gif


When booting up the first time you don't need to use VGA do you? I'm connected with HDMI
 

DeVeAn

Member
Yep



Temps will only drop ~1-3C not a huge amount. Its fine to test it now to make sure it was installed correctly
Thanks. So I just open Prime95 and it does its thing automatically? Never used this program. How long do I run it? As of now its 59C at stock speeds.
 

scogoth

Member
Thanks. So I just open Prime95 and it does its thing automatically? Never used this program. How long do I run it? As of now its 59C at stock speeds.

Open it up, if its the first time click just stress testing. Close it, open it again now it should show a few options. Select in place large FFTs for max heat. Open temp monitoring program. When you want to stop make sure you right click the prime95 icon in the tool tray and click exit.
 

brentech

Member
None of the ram was set in properly. :[

Now the red LED has moved to VGA_LED
laughing-smiley-016.gif


When booting up the first time you don't need to use VGA do you? I'm connected with HDMI

Now I'd probably re-seat the video card. Unplug power to it, unscrew the card slots and fully remove it. Give it a quick visual inspection to make sure everything looks good and then put back into motherboard. Replug the power cable and give it a shot.
 

DeVeAn

Member
Open it up, if its the first time click just stress testing. Close it, open it again now it should show a few options. Select in place large FFTs for max heat. Open temp monitoring program. When you want to stop make sure you right click the prime95 icon in the tool tray and click exit.

Gotcha, how long till I know its working properly?
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned
Ok resat GPU and now all the lights have gone but on the debug panel it says AE.

It seems to be one thing after another tonight. :p

Edit: So it seems it means can't find boot device. I have an SSD and HDD connected. Do I need to format them on another pc first?
 

DeVeAn

Member
Watch your temps. You'll know almost immediately.

Check task manager it should show 100% CPU usage. Also temps should rise pretty quickly, like in a second

Well its 100% load at 60C. I plan to overclock it though. Just testing it first to see if its only properly. Also the fan is at max speed which is fine I guess but, when I booted up it said CPU fan error and took me to BIOS. Should I do something?
 

Jzero

Member
Ok resat GPU and now all the lights have gone but on the debug panel it says AE.

It seems to be one thing after another tonight. :p

Edit: So it seems it means can't find boot device. I have an SSD and HDD connected. Do I need to format them on another pc first?

You need to install your Operating System now.
 

knitoe

Member
Well its 100% load at 60C. I plan to overclock it though. Just testing it first to see if its only properly. Also the fan is at max speed which is fine I guess but, when I booted up it said CPU fan error and took me to BIOS. Should I do something?

You can disable fan monitoring in bios and stop the error. Or, check to make sure the fan is plugged in the cpu fan input.

Ok resat GPU and now all the lights have gone but on the debug panel it says AE.

It seems to be one thing after another tonight. :p

Edit: So it seems it means can't find boot device. I have an SSD and HDD connected. Do I need to format them on another pc first?

You need to install the OS. If the installation file is located on a disc drive, select that to bootup 1st and proceed to OS installation. If on USB, select that boot 1st instead. And, so on.
 

scogoth

Member
Well its 100% load at 60C. I plan to overclock it though. Just testing it first to see if its only properly. Also the fan is at max speed which is fine I guess but, when I booted up it said CPU fan error and took me to BIOS. Should I do something?

Is the fan spinning? CPU fan error occurs when no fan is connected or its reporting 0 RPM
 

VE3TRO

Formerly Gizmowned
Excellent. I'll get the OS installed in the morning. Also luckily I read that sometimes HDMI doesn't show up on the monitor so I flicked over to DVI and now I have a picture.

Thanks alot guys I really appreciate it. Now it's time for some sleep. >_<
 

brentech

Member
Edit: So it seems it means can't find boot device. I have an SSD and HDD connected. Do I need to format them on another pc first?
I was reading the SSD optimization guide earlier today since I'll get mine tomorrow.
Recommended unplugging the standard HDD so there is no mistake as to where you're putting the OS.

If you've got it hooked up to a monitor now, it should be displaying a splash screen or at least letting you into the BIOS if you have a keyboard hooked up. Keep hitting [DELETE] key after powering on the system and if you get into the BIOS you should be able to see if it's recognizing your hard drives.

Of course, if it's not seeing them, some boards won't get that far. So I'd check your SATA cables are on nice and snug, as well as the power cables to each drive.

EDIT: See your update, awesome. Glad you feel you're ready to get working, I know it's stressful when dealing with this all that after spending on a system, but your learn some shit every time, it's worth it.
 

mkenyon

Banned
What are you doing for lighting? Computers are so awkward to photograph.

I use two of these with the highest possible temperature bulbs. I like my PC pictures to be sterile.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_352723-4784...rentURL=?Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1&facetInfo=

Then I'll add additional light from my work lamp (magnifying glass with fluorescent bulb) if need be.
Thaaaaat's better. Got out the tripod and took some better pictures. Just a bit of editing first...

Edit: Here we go! I still need to figure out a better way to light the interior though.
*fap fap fap fap fap*
Excellent. I'll get the OS installed in the morning. Also luckily I read that sometimes HDMI doesn't show up on the monitor so I flicked over to DVI and now I have a picture.

Thanks alot guys I really appreciate it. Now it's time for some sleep. >_<
Yay!!! Grats!
Pics might be a tad dark got shit lighting so I had to use the flash. Some more here - http://gizmowned.minus.com/

Should I remove the Cmos battery for 10 minutes?
Not to be that guy who points out random stuff on an epic build but.....

You need two of the same fans on a radiator. using two different fans will screw up the airflow and generally lead to worse temps.

Also, check out the cable management guide in the OP, that hardware deserves it!
 

kennah

Member
Excellent. I'll get the OS installed in the morning. Also luckily I read that sometimes HDMI doesn't show up on the monitor so I flicked over to DVI and now I have a picture.

Thanks alot guys I really appreciate it. Now it's time for some sleep. >_<

Awesome, well done! :)
 

Kipp

but I am taking tiny steps forward
I use two of these with the highest possible temperature bulbs. I like my PC pictures to be sterile.

Then I'll add additional light from my work lamp (magnifying glass with fluorescent bulb) if need be.

*fap fap fap fap fap*

Ah nice. I'll have to see if there are any lamps in my house that will do the trick. Haha.
This indoor photography has got me wishing I had some studio lights to mess around with... I should pick up a pair of cheap ones sometime.

And I'm glad you enjoyed the pictures! :p
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ah nice. I'll have to see if there are any lamps in my house that will do the trick. Haha.
This indoor photography has got me wishing I had some studio lights to mess around with... I should pick up a pair of cheap ones sometime.

And I'm glad you enjoyed the pictures! :p
Bright diffused light works wonders.

A lot of people just put a white background up on their monitor and use that too.

I saved your pics as you perfectly captured the feel of the Lian Li material. That stuff is so amazingly machined and finished.
 

Kipp

but I am taking tiny steps forward
Bright diffused light works wonders.

A lot of people just put a white background up on their monitor and use that too.

I saved your pics as you perfectly captured the feel of the Lian Li material. That stuff is so amazingly machined and finished.

Ah cool. I'll definitely keep that in mind next time I take pictures of it.

Aww, thanks! :)
And yeah, it really is. Next time I take pictures of the case, I'm going to focus on getting that brushed texture more in focus. It's so nice.
 

Wag

Member
I just upgraded to a Titan so I got 3 2GB 6950s for sale if anyone's interested. PM me. If not I'll just put them up on eBay.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I just upgraded to a Titan so I got 3 2GB 6950s for sale if anyone's interested. PM me. If not I'll just put them up on eBay.
Put them up in the B/S/T thread as well.

What kind of cards in specific? Max OC?
So since I come to terms that i need a new motherboard, i was looking at a couple options, the ASRock Extreme4 or the MSI MPower. Is the MPower worth it for the extra 50 bucks? Which one would OC better without drawing much power? I'm guessing both would be equally suitable for the Haswell chips.
Love the OC options in the BIOS, there are some really amazing features with this board that make it stand out if you want to push your hardware to its limits. Doing a Linpack run on a 3570K @ 4.4GHz, 1.18V. That could be chip lottery, but this processor is definitely showing promise. Since it's not mine, I won't be pushing it to its limits. Now that I've been able to play with it though, I like it nearly as much as my UP7, which is double the price of this one. Pretty fantastic board.
 
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