Azwethinkweiz
Member
Depends if the voltage is unlocked. Even if not, you should be able to get about 100 MHz out of it.
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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
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Depends if the voltage is unlocked. Even if not, you should be able to get about 100 MHz out of it.
I've already bought it from that store a couple weeks ago
I bought the OCZ 600w PSU there today too, since they didnt have the 500w version in stock, so thought that I might look into overclocking.
I got Samsung 8gb ram too from that place and thinking about overclocking that too.
This is a pretty unorthodox looking cooler on the GTX680. I wonder if that even works, since the air would be blowing downward, which seems non-ideal. The only reason I can think of why someone would do this is if they wanted a heatsink the size of an ASUS one but without having it take up three slots.
Use Trixx to see if it's voltage locked, it's what I've been using with my 7850, you might be able to get it up to 1200MHz with a voltage tweak but having it at 1100MHz already is a good OC out of the box.
Just got a my Filco Majestouch Ninja today(blue switches), previously I was using a custom WASD mechanical keyboard(brown switches). As much as I love my WASD multicolor keyboard this Filco is the most quality keyboard I have ever felt bar none end of story, I love it. Also blue switches are definitely my new favorite, I haven't tried greens, but I probably really like those as well.
terrdactycalsrock
Member
Heres something I've always wondered. When do you guys upgrade CPUs? From my understanding (I've never built a PC) you cant just swap the old CPU for the new one. So wouldnt you have to buy a new motherboard with the CPU and dissemble the entire thing?
Depends on the CPU. If you're going from a same gen i3 to an i7 for example, you wouldn't necessarily need a new motherboard. As well going from Sandy Bridge to Ivy Bridge you didn't "need" a new motherboard.
CreepingFear
Member
You can't upgrade if the new cpu uses a different socket, but you can usually flash your bios if using the same socket. For instance, I have an Sandybridge i7 2600k using socket 1155. I could upgrade to the newer Ivy Bridge cpu just by flashing my Bios before replacing the 2600k for whatever newer Ivy Bridge cpu I'd want. I won't be able to upgrade to a Haswell cpu since that will use socket 1150, I believe. Also, you can't put an Intel cpu into a socket meant for AMD cpus and vice versa.
Oh yeah, I forgot that they recommend that you update the bios first before using titan. Something about the firmware in it and how it interacts with the mobo. So if you haven't tried again since updating the bios, do that. If that doesn't work then try the method I mentioned.
Is there a reason you want one without an OC? Just to get the cheapest price?
Is there really any reason to get a factory overclocked graphics card anyway?
Aside from binning, which is debatable, the overclocks are pretty modest, like incremenets of 50-100MHz usually.
So I can overclock myself, mainly. I don't find the prices worth it for the relatively measly increases.
I'll get a short list of stuff done up for you soon.
If the price is more I agree but quite often there is no difference at all. Also some cards like the gigabyte 7970 are voltage locked so a factory OC model is the best option.
So MisterNoisy's fans (thanks again!) arrived, and I rebuilt from standard Arc Midi layout to something more respectably positive pressure (two stock in the front, a Xiggy in the bottom, and... one Xiggy sitting sadly on my workbench waiting for mounting screws, with one of the stock 140s blowing out the rear.)
And I rebooted.
And I ran my usual x264 fun and games, and was a little disappointed that I only gained a degree or two off peak.
Then I realized that I'd forgotten to run the power/clock control app that I'd been using to crank -down- 0.06 or 0.07v, and I was ticking along slightly cooler at 1.32 than I was at 1.25. Fixed, and I'm peaking lower than my old average at load.
Next project is to get those screws and mount the other Xiggy as rear output, moving the stock 140 to the side-panel mount. And maybe get a classier filter on there than nylons and painter's tape.
And I rebooted.
And I ran my usual x264 fun and games, and was a little disappointed that I only gained a degree or two off peak.
Then I realized that I'd forgotten to run the power/clock control app that I'd been using to crank -down- 0.06 or 0.07v, and I was ticking along slightly cooler at 1.32 than I was at 1.25. Fixed, and I'm peaking lower than my old average at load.
Next project is to get those screws and mount the other Xiggy as rear output, moving the stock 140 to the side-panel mount. And maybe get a classier filter on there than nylons and painter's tape.
I just went from a 4 fan setup to a 5 fan setup on my Arc Midi (950RPM to 1250 RPM fans, 140mm) and it did jack all by going down 1C under load.
Old: 140mm intake into HDD bay, 140mm Rear Exhaust, 120mm CPU Fan, 140mm Top Exhaust
New: 140mm (Faster) intake into HDD bay, 140mm (Faster) Rear Exhaust, 120mm CPU Fan, 140mm Top Exhaust, 140mm Side Intake
My debate was swapping the top exhaust to a front intake (Since top exhaust had so much dust on it I figured it was doing work), I guess I'll do that. I think I just need a good remount of my heatsink TBH.
Thanks alot mate!
Sorry for how long this has taken, kept getting distracted. I'll take you through some AMD options first. I know you didn't ask for anything bar the 7970 but these are good value and well worth a look
First up is this Club 3D 2GB AMD HD7870 Joker from Amazon for £170. 7870 you might think, meh, but this is one of the Tahiti LE 7870s where it's effectively a cut down 7950, they're near neck and neck performance wise. Overclocking wise techpowerup got their test card up to 1210 MHz core (24% overclock) and 1620 MHz memory (8% overclock) which put it just behind the stock 7970 in BF3.
Not bad for a £170 card.
Next is the 7950. There are reference models available which use the standard clock speed but to be blunt the coolers on them are pretty shite. For proper overclocking you want a voltage unlocked card which this Gigabyte WF 7950 for £240 from Dabs is. It'll OC very well and hit stock 7970 levels, just ahead of that 7870 Joker. You also get BioShock Infinite and Crysis 3 for free with the 7900 cards. 7800 cards get Tomb Raider free instead of C3 but Amazon aren't part of the promotion but interestingly do offer the Joker with the games for £12 more.
7970 wise they are getting very hard to find which aren't voltage locked. One I can confirm that aren't locked are the MSI R7970 OC (it has a noisy reference cooler), MSI R7970 Lightning and the Asus 7970 Matrix. The MSIs are very hard to get and the ASUS costs a bomb. The only MSI Lightning I can find that is in stock is from Aria and it's an open box one for £320. Gigabyte do a factory OC'd model (which I know you're against) but it's clocked at 1.1GHz and typically 1.2GHz is the best you can really expect from most of them so it's not far off being near the top of the tree.
Onto Nvidia options. These two are the cheapest 660s on the market but thankfully still have good coolers, the 2GB MSI TF3 660 from Ebuyer for £160 and the same again but the Gigabyte version.
Looking at the 660 Ti there is the EVGA 3GB model but unless you're looking to SLI I wouldn't bother with their cooler. Instead spend a bit more on the 3GB MSI TF3 for £260 from Scan. I would point out though at this price level AMD is the better value buy all round, and if you want a comparison using the latest frame latency benchmarks PC Perspective has a review comparing the 7950 and the 660 Ti.
For the 670 this 4GB Gigabyte model from Ebuyer for £380 would be the one I'd look to. There are cheaper EVGA ones but again only get them if you're looking to SLI as they're blowers. Lastly there is the 680 and Dabs want £480 for the 4GB ASUS one which is too much imo, £100 more for a card that is 10% better than the 670.
Hopefully this is of some use to you. I'm not sure what the craic is with the voltages on the Nvidia GPUs I'm only really knowledgeable about overclocking with the AMD cards. If it were me buying with my own money I'd look at one of the AMD cards as they offer the best bang for buck at present.
MisterNoisy
Member
Side intake is absolutely the bee's knees for making a 'real' difference in mobo/GPU temps in my experience. Glad you're getting some use out of them - I'm doing a lot of experimentation with my Prodigy's fan configuration, and I simply ran out of fan mounts.
EDIT:
Speaking of which, I've got two Arctic Cooling F12 Pro PWM fans laying around that I'm willing to give up. First one to claim one or both (they only mount one way, so if you only need one, only ask for one) in the ConUS can have them. Zero hours on each.
Standard 840 120GB isn't that great, this is better
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1ZTZOG/?tag=neogaf0e-20
The TLC in the 120GB 840 doesn't have the greatest lifespan, I'd stick to MLC in that capacity.
Would those be good as an intake for the R4?
MisterNoisy
Member
I can't see why not.
Cool, I'm interested if they haven't been claimed already.
MisterNoisy
Member
Done deal - PM me an address and I'll get them out before Monday.
10% faster or so according to this http://computeredradio.com/2013/02/02/kingston-ssdnow-v300-value-meets-performance/
Voice of Reason
Banned
If I'm using one monitor, would the 7970 Ghz edition with 6GB of DDR5 be a waste? I'm sure 3GB does the job well enough, right? Or is the extra 3gb worth it?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202005
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202005
What's the consensus on the quietest fans? I'm looking for 1 extra 140mm fan for my case and 2 120mm fans to replace my h80i fans.
The two that came with my define r4 are used as an intake in the front and then the h80i is in the exhaust in the back. Looking to replace the h80i ones since they're a little loud plus one more as an intake at the top.
The two that came with my define r4 are used as an intake in the front and then the h80i is in the exhaust in the back. Looking to replace the h80i ones since they're a little loud plus one more as an intake at the top.
Voice of Reason
Banned
Gotcha, thanks.
What do you think of those Korean IPS monitors btw? Do you recommend any of them?
Not a clue on them, sorry. There is a thread on them if you're not aware of it, should be some good info there http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490884
Voice of Reason
Banned
Me too. (Your PC)
Koroviev
Member
It strategically refuses to boot whenever I am having a bad day. Every. Damned. Time.
ghostlyspice
Member
OK, I have a potentially stupid problem -
So I recently built my first computer, everything is working fine but when I put my graphics card (HIS Radeon HD 7850) into the PCI-e 3.0 slot the computer won't boot...
It works perfectly fine in the 2.0 slot but it's really close to the bottom of my case and I worry it isn't getting enough air? (It gets pretty loud even during The Sims 3, lord! :/)
Does anyone know why it won't boot in that slot?
So I recently built my first computer, everything is working fine but when I put my graphics card (HIS Radeon HD 7850) into the PCI-e 3.0 slot the computer won't boot...
It works perfectly fine in the 2.0 slot but it's really close to the bottom of my case and I worry it isn't getting enough air? (It gets pretty loud even during The Sims 3, lord! :/)
Does anyone know why it won't boot in that slot?
Confusion Illusion
Banned
I'm reluctant do in more tinkering since my system is operation smoothly, but there is still the GPU upgrade. Some advice needed(as it relates to that). My PSU is 3 years old now - it is a Corsair TX650. At this point should I looking into getting a new one or should I just keep it going?
The GPUs I'm look at are a Geforce GTX 670(2GB) or a GTX 660 ti (3GB).
The GPUs I'm look at are a Geforce GTX 670(2GB) or a GTX 660 ti (3GB).
I bought a Crossover Q27 for $350. They seem to be better built than the other Korean monitors. It was amazing pixel perfect display until I think the backlighting stopped working after 9 months. To ship back to Korea for warranty repairs, It would have cost me another $270. I wasn't going to take another risk have having to send it back again so I went ahead and bought a Dell 2713HM for $600 with 3 year warranty. Thinking back, I should have gone this route to begin with. If you want a "Korean" monitor, pay a little bit more and buy a 1440p monitor locally from Microcenter, Monoprice or Overlord Computers. It will be worth it if you need to use the warranty.
I bought the microcenter version (Auria) due to buying a three year replacement warranty for $80. All together, it cost me $430 and its great and if it breaks, I just bring it back and I get another one or a gift card for $430.
I had a Thunderbolt display back in the summer, and I cant tell a difference between the two monitors really. Just a different shell.
Exactly why I bought it from microcenter! Mine was actually an open box model ($330 then $80 for the warranty and then tax brought it to about 435). The open box model had a red tint while there was a black background. Brought it back an hour later and they gave me a brand new one (Although the new only have an AG coating, while the open box one was glossy. I got used to it)
jim2point0
Banned
When downsampling exists, there are ways to easily utilize that VRAM on a single 1080p monitor
So, I ordered a new PSU because my old one was failing and it arrived today, but it has a small manufacturing defect. It's the kind of thing that probably isn't a big deal, but it drives you mad when you see it:
(Excuse the grainy pics, my phone camera sucks). I ordered it from Amazon so they would probably change it, but it is such a hassle sending it back from here. Should I bother?
(Excuse the grainy pics, my phone camera sucks). I ordered it from Amazon so they would probably change it, but it is such a hassle sending it back from here. Should I bother?
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