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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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mkenyon

Banned
Also just curious, why don't any builds listed here include a wireless card?

Is this a decent choice on the cheap?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034CL2ZI/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Because very few people are familiar enough with the black magic that is wireless to get consistent, low ping, high bandwidth connections.

I've personally even tried sacrificing a small animal for my home network, and I think the blood actually made it slightly worse. So frustrating.

As Kharma pointed out, Powerline adapters are the way to go if you can't get a straight wired connection.
 
The thing with fans is the CFM of the fan over how many you have. Solid 120mm fans can have the same CFM as 2 cheap 120mm case oem fans. What CPU (and cooler) do you have? 50-60 is a fairly normal temperature if you're rocking a newer Intel chip that's overclocked. Either way, size and number of fans have diminishing returns. You can end up with a really noisy case after even 3 fans.

Can't remember if it's in the OP or I just came across it somewhere, but there is a nice article out there that tests heat against quantity of fans.
I can't remember if it's 3 or 4 fans, but one of the 2 is the sweet spot of value. Anything more and you have pretty heavy diminishing returns.

Its really just law of diminishing returns. Going from 1 fan to 2 fans greatly greatly helps cooling but going from 10 to 20 fans(extreme example) will do almost nothing. Depending on your build anywhere between 3-6 fans are enough.

Thanks guys. I'm using the 2 Stock fans that came with it, don't know their CFM. I switched out the stock 120 w/ Cougar Vortex (60CFM).

I'm using 212Evo Plus (one 120) and i5-2500k Overclocked
 

scogoth

Member
Because very few people are familiar enough with the black magic that is wireless to get consistent, low ping, high bandwidth connections.

I've personally even tried sacrificing a small animal for my home network, and I think the blood actually made it slightly worse. So frustrating.

As Kharma pointed out, Powerline adapters are the way to go if you can't get a straight wired connection.

Thats horrible!

If you really really really need wireless I would recommend Ruckus access points. They aren't available to consumers and they are $600 an AP. But I've used them in a number of commercial installations and they are absolutely fantastic.
 

mkenyon

Banned
It was just a baby lamb, no biggie.

I asked Knitoe if a Squirrel would work, but he said it needed to be cuter. Gotta listen to those Wireless Wizards.
 

MedIC86

Member

Smash88

Banned
Don't get too excited yet, I'd wait for some more solid stuff yet rather than just one sites word.

Im just as excited as you but unfortunatly nothing has been confirmed so far. And that 780 could well become 6/700$ for all we know.

You guys must be fun at parties.

Jokes aside, I really hope the GTX 700 series is coming out in May. I want to finally get a new computer after 5 years.
 

tehbible

Member
Okay, final question...

I think I've finally settled on what I want to buy. My only question is regarding cables, as this is the first time I've completely built a computer on my own. If I buy the following setup, will I need to buy any additional cables for power/etc?

You do not need to buy extra cables. Everything you buy from the parts should come with all cables included.


Intel Core i5-3470 Quad-Core Processor 3.2 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155 - BX80637I53470

MSI LGA1155/Intel B75/DDR3/SATA3 and USB 3.0/A and GbE/MicroATX Motherboard B75MA-E33

Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB kit (4GBx2) DDR3-1600 1.5V 240-Pin UDIMM BLS2CP4G3D1609DS1S00

MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 Graphics Card N660 TF 2GD5/OC

WD Blue 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive: 3.5 Inch, 7200 RPM, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache - WD10EZEX

Corsair Builder Series CX 500 Watt ATX/EPS  80 PLUS (CX500)

Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid Tower Computer Case with High Airflow RC-912-KKN1-AMZ

Asus 24xDVD-RW Serial ATA Internal OEM Drive DRW-24B1ST (Black)

Crucial m4 64GB 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SATA 6Gb/s with Data Transfer Kit CT064M4SSD2CCA

If you want to lower the price further you can drop your CPU to a i5-3350P, but i5-3470 is a perfect sweet spot. Everything else you have looks great.

If you really, really want to save money to maximize gaming performance I'd drop that SSD, get a i5-3350P, get a cheaper case, and try to squeeze a GTX 670 in there or a AMD 7950. 7950 offers really good performance for the price especially when overclocked.
 

Demon Ice

Banned

kharma45

Member
You do not need to buy extra cables. Everything you buy from the parts should come with all cables included.




If you want to lower the price further you can drop your CPU to a i5-3350P, but i5-3470 is a perfect sweet spot. Everything else you have looks great.

I'd go for the 3350p, 0.1 GHz isn't worth $20 imo.
 

M3z_

Member
I kind of want to ditch my cards for these two of these 780's if they are really gonna be slightly less powerful titans at $500/$600. To think a Titan is somewhere around 40% faster than a 680 at $1000, a 780 being 30% faster for $500/$600 dollars is pretty crazy. Kind of a fuck you to the Titan owners if they come out that cheap. Though I remember feeling kind of shafted when I bought a launch 680 and then the 670's launch for $100 cheaper and were only 5% slower.
 

tehbible

Member
I'd go for the 3350p, 0.1 GHz isn't worth $20 imo.

True, but it's also handy to have a iGPU in there just for added flexibility. You can also overclock the i5 3470 to about 3.7ghz if needed.

I'd personally go for the 3350P (save $20) take out the SSD, get a cheaper case, get a 500gb hdd, and add in a AMD 7950 or GTX 670 in there. (for twentytwo22's build)
 

kharma45

Member
True, but it's also handy to have a iGPU in there just for added flexibility. You can also overclock the i5 3470 to about 3.7ghz if needed.

I'd personally go for the 3350P (save $20) take out the SSD, get a cheaper case, get a 500gb hdd, and add in a AMD 7950 or GTX 670 in there. (for twentytwo22's build)

I'd leave the SSD in, they're a God send.
 

Valnen

Member
Fuuuck. My parts came in and the case is damaged. Totally bent on the bottom, impossible to install the PSU. Is UPS going to charge me when I send it back to Amazon? I already printed out a return label.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Fuuuck. My parts came in and the case is damaged. Totally bent on the bottom, impossible to install the PSU. Is UPS going to charge me when I send it back to Amazon? I already printed out a return label.
If you already printed out the shipping label, why would you be charged? I am confuse.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
So question...I'm thinking of just selling my desktop and going portable (since I don't use my desktop much anymore). What's the best way to get a good profile of my PC to determine it's value?
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
List the specs?

Well yeah, I know that. But isn't there a software you can run that gives you a detailed readout of your device settings in a nice notepad style document? I seem to remember running it years ago...But I have no idea. I may be making things up.
 

kennah

Member
Odd question. What could the competing ati card to the 9800gt be at the time? My friend has a 3450 that I'm wondering if this would even be an upgrade for him.
 
DESKTOP PC Core™ i5 / i7 Z77 2-way SLI® / CrossFireX™ Performance Custom Computer System $1237.46 $1237.46
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 (RC-912-KKN1) Mid-Tower Case, ATX, No PSU, SECC/Plastic
SEASONIC M12II-750 Bronze 750W Power Supply w/ Modular Cables, 80 PLUS® Bronze, 24-pin ATX12V 2x EPS12V, 4x 8/6-pin PCIe, Retail
ASUS P8Z77-V LK, LGA1155, Intel® Z77, DDR3-2400 (O.C.) 32GB /4, PCIe x16 SLI CF /1+1*, SATA 3Gb/s RAID 5 /4, 6Gb/s /2, DP + HDMI + DVI + VGA, USB 3.0 /6, HDA, GbLAN, ATX, Retail
INTEL Core™ i5-3570K Quad-Core 3.4 - 3.8GHz TB, HD Graphics 4000, LGA1155, 6MB L3 Cache, DDR3-1600, 22nm, 77W, EM64T EIST VT-x XD, Retail
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler, Socket 2011/1155/1156/1366/775/FM1/AM3/AM2, Copper/Aluminum
CORSAIR 8GB (2 x 4GB) Vengeance™ LP PC3-12800 DDR3 1600MHz CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V SDRAM DIMM, Non-ECC
GIGABYTE GV-N670OC-2GD, GeForce® GTX 670 980MHz, 2GB GDDR5 6008MHz, PCIe x16 SLI, 2x DVI + HDMI + DP, Retail
WESTERN DIGITAL 1TB WD Caviar® Blue™ (WD10EZEX), SATA 6 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 64MB cache, OEM
RAID No RAID, Independent HDD Drives
ASUS DRW-24B1ST Black 24x DVD±R/RW Dual-Layer Burner, SATA, OEM
NONE No Operating System (Choose OS or subject to Limited Support)
WARRANTY Silver Warranty Package (3 Year Limited Parts, 3 Year Labor Warranty)

I have a Samsung SSD on my current PC that I can plug in

Cost: Around $1237.46$ (will be custom built by AvaDirect)
 

mkenyon

Banned
Odd question. What could the competing ati card to the 9800gt be at the time? My friend has a 3450 that I'm wondering if this would even be an upgrade for him.
9800GT came out about 3-4 months after, IIRC. The 3450 is a low end model while the 9800GT is basically a 8800GT on a shrunken process. 9800GT won't be a huge upgrade, but it would be an upgrade.
I have a Samsung SSD on my current PC that I can plug in

Cost: Around $1237.46$ (will be custom built by AvaDirect)
You can drop the PSU down to a 550W. I'd also suggest switching out the case for a BitFenix Shinobi or Corsair 200R.

The price isn't horrible, it's about $250-300 more than if you were to build it yourself. If that's cool with you, then go forth.

If you are Pac NW based, I can build it for you.
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Well. Post here!

I guess I could do that...

System Summary
CPU: i7-930 @ 2.80 GHz Bloomfield 45nm
RAM: 6 gigs of Corsair DDR3 RAM
Mobo: Sabertooth X58 (LGA 1366)
GFX: 1 GB DDR3 NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250
HD: 1 TB SATA drive
PSU: Corsair 850 W Series 80 Plus Certified
Case: Antec Nine Hundred Steel ATX Ultimate Gamer PC Case
Heat Sink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm cooler

I really just want to try and fund a desktop replacement laptop. I don't game too much anymore, and when I do, I just play on low/medium settings despite the auto-detect giving me higher options. What would be a reasonable asking price?
 
You can drop the PSU down to a 550W. I'd also suggest switching out the case for a BitFenix Shinobi or Corsair 200R.

The price isn't horrible, it's about $250-300 more than if you were to build it yourself. If that's cool with you, then go forth.

If you are Pac NW based, I can build it for you.

Thanks for the feedback. I will tinker with it a bit more, I have a new PSU coming, going to try and replace mine and see. I obviously have no idea how to actually do that, but let's see.

My old machine had a GTX 460 machine and I have been able to play games that I play fine, not sure I need a very powerful card. I don't play Crysis, or BF or anything.

Unfortunately, not Pac NW based, here in Charlotte.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Think about dropping down to the 7950 then. Good savings, not much of a performance hit at all. Also has a larger memory bandwidth and more memory.
I guess I could do that...

System Summary
CPU: i7-930 @ 2.80 GHz Bloomfield 45nm
RAM: 6 gigs of Corsair DDR3 RAM
Mobo: Sabertooth X58 (LGA 1366)
GFX: 1 GB DDR3 NVIDIA GeForce GTS 250
HD: 1 TB SATA drive
PSU: Corsair 850 W Series 80 Plus Certified
Case: Antec Nine Hundred Steel ATX Ultimate Gamer PC Case
Heat Sink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm cooler

I really just want to try and fund a desktop replacement laptop. I don't game too much anymore, and when I do, I just play on low/medium settings despite the auto-detect giving me higher options. What would be a reasonable asking price?
$400. You have good specs, but they're not in the right places that would get someone to bite.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Yeah, fear not. ATi doesn't even exist anymore.

AMD has done a pretty great job with single GPU drivers. There are some specific features you might lose out on if they are important, like easily downsampling, lack of good 3D options, and really poor multi-card support (for now - they're working on some fixes).
 

nicoga3000

Saint Nic
Think about dropping down to the 7950 then. Good savings, not much of a performance hit at all. Also has a larger memory bandwidth and more memory.

$400. You have good specs, but they're not in the right places that would get someone to bite.

Cool, thanks. If I can get around that, it will justify me buying a $1200 laptop, haha.
 
Anyone have recommendation for quiet PSU? Only running a GTX580 with no OC and a 2600k up to like 4.2ghz

Reposting to see if anyone has ideas. Looking at the M12II PSU's in the OP. My current PSU is the AX1200 and sounds like a hurricane - took out both graphics cards to isolate the noise in my case, and it is definitely the PSU. It's not coil whine, just loud as hell.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Reposting to see if anyone has ideas. Looking at the M12II PSU's in the OP. My current PSU is the AX1200 and sounds like a hurricane - took out both graphics cards to isolate the noise in my case, and it is definitely the PSU. It's not coil whine, just loud as hell.
How cheap do you want to go? AX660 would be a good option.
 

kennah

Member
Hmmm. I guess that and bumping him up from his 3 gigs of ram to 4 or 8 would probably help. Just trying to clean up around here. Oy. Need to do a you style give away soon.
 

neoism

Member
fuck it really dun want to make a new thread...
I had a Vizio HDTV 720p <-awesome tv... had it for 5 years but it quit a few days ago, it had a DVI PC hook-up and on 1280X768 my PC looked fucking fabulous on it... well. I got a new HDTV today.. not really new, but its an Toshiba 1080p LED 3d.... it has the same DVI on the back.. but my pc has terrible blurry text.. everything looks great but the text... my card is a R5870 but I don't have the option for 1080p nor does it have a hdmi hook-up on the back.. I got these res options used them all and not sure what to do...
pretty sure this is a 240Hz tv not sure if that is the problem....
iblhZKogtBi9X.png

ans please help me and not just say to get a pc monitor it worked perfect with my other hdtv... :( I mainly use it for my PC... D3 looks terrible text wise its so blurry
 
Trying to decide on a GPU is giving me a headache. If the 700 series isn't out till this June, should I just wait till Fall for it or settle with 7970 Ghz? I was also tempted to get a 690/7990 but people were saying buying a "relatively" mid-range card would allow more financial flexibility to upgrade down the road.

I don't wanna get a $500 GPU then upgrade a year later when Maxwell is out, that'd be dumb.
 
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