Back to Asus 120hz monitor.........
1080p feels so......low. meh
where is my 2560x1440/1600 @120hz
Hey Smokey which did you get? I have a Benq XL2411T on the way, but it takes a while to get here, like a month! Can't wait to try out the Light Boost hack!
I've had my Asus 120hz for almost 2 years now. Apparently it's one of the best models out, which I wasn't aware of until I saw MK mentioning it here and other places. I often switch back and forth between it and my Dell U3011, which is what I did today. Moved the Dell to another room and am rolling with 120hz.
23'' seems so small to me and as I mentioned earlier 1080p seems really low to me after using the U3011 for an extensive period of time. But 120hz is soooo smooth...
I'm trying to find a ssd for about 100 euros. Any recommendations?
Also, as all graphics cards seem to be delayed until Q4, should I go with a 7950?
Anyone?
An Alienware X51, with a low power vid card and a crap clocked i5 has 2.56 Tflops of power. Durango and Orbis aren't trying to match the high end. They want a low power (and therefore low heat), affordable console with a huge leap in graphics capability.
What I'm looking at so far for water cooling. It'll be a bit more with fittings, tubings, coolant and Titan blocks.
Anyone?
Put dinoc on all those blocks
And way to have the exact same build other than the titans =(. I wish I could get the Titans.
What's dinoc? I not knowledgeable about all watercooling.
More info on the LightBoost hack for zero motion blur:
http://marky.com/backlight/lightboost-zero-motion-blur/
Anyone familiar with SLI maybe can give me some advice. I've had some crashes during both 2011 and 2013 versions of Futuremark. I suspect it has something to do with the Futuremark "SystemInfo" service but the program won't run without it. Get some DXGI hardware has been removed error. I had a modest OC on both GPU's so I'm not sure how to diagnose this as a lot of the time, the driver fails and recovers back to the desktop. On the latest stable/non-beta 3.10.90 driver.
I've had a couple of BSOD's while gaming but I think they were due to voltage on the CPU not being right. PM's and all that are welcome as I have to work now but I could use some diagnosis tips.
Anyone familiar with SLI maybe can give me some advice. I've had some crashes during both 2011 and 2013 versions of Futuremark. I suspect it has something to do with the Futuremark "SystemInfo" service but the program won't run without it. Get some DXGI hardware has been removed error. I had a modest OC on both GPU's so I'm not sure how to diagnose this as a lot of the time, the driver fails and recovers back to the desktop. On the latest stable/non-beta 3.10.90 driver.
I've had a couple of BSOD's while gaming but I think they were due to voltage on the CPU not being right. PM's and all that are welcome as I have to work now but I could use some diagnosis tips.
Only disable it on the SSD. I manually allocate 16-16000mb on my 1tb HDD.
You can turn down the page file but make sure you hit the "set" button to make the changes take. Might ask you for a reboot.
I'm also referring to virtual memory in advanced settings.
It's $100 more. $430 on FrozenCPU.900D on sale at Amazon I wonder if they are "sold out" because of it not being released or if it really is sold out. Any other outlets have preorders up for this? Really want to buy this right now, but mkenyon talking about the LD-7 so highly has me torn. I'm not sure if I want to pay 200 more bucks on a case though.
Nope. The sensor on the spawn is much better.Is the G9x a better performer than the Storm Spawn? They look like they have similar ergonomics. I'm coming from a palm-style first gen MX 518 but I mouse with my fingertips primarily, so I think the claw-style should work well for me.
Looks good! You'll need a metric shitton of fittings once you figure out your case and the loop.What I'm looking at so far for water cooling. It'll be a bit more with fittings, tubings, coolant and Titan blocks.
Do you have the cpu overclocked? You can overclock it around ~4.2 or higher easily with an aftermarket cooler.In prep for Crysis 3 and having a few quid burning a hole in my pocket, i was thinking of doing a small upgrade on my computer. I'm contemplating going SLI with a second 670, though I've never had an SLI set up before, so was wondering what the advice would be? I'm also wondering if at this point, if it would be just better to wait and see what the next range of Nvidia cards are like?
Out of curiosity though. Looking at my specs below, what would you guys recommend as the best/more necessary upgrade?
- Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor
- Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3 1TB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache - OEM
- Asus P8P67 Pro R3 P67 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX670 Graphics Card(2GB GDDR5, PCI-E)
- G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V
Thanks in advance.
In prep for Crysis 3 and having a few quid burning a hole in my pocket, i was thinking of doing a small upgrade on my computer. I'm contemplating going SLI with a second 670, though I've never had an SLI set up before, so was wondering what the advice would be? I'm also wondering if at this point, if it would be just better to wait and see what the next range of Nvidia cards are like?
Out of curiosity though. Looking at my specs below, what would you guys recommend as the best/more necessary upgrade?
- Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor
- Samsung HD103SJ Spinpoint F3 1TB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache - OEM
- Asus P8P67 Pro R3 P67 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard
- Gigabyte GeForce GTX670 Graphics Card(2GB GDDR5, PCI-E)
- G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-9-9-24) 1.5V
Thanks in advance.
Do you have the cpu overclocked? You can overclock it around ~4.2 or higher easily with an aftermarket cooler.
You should invest getting an SSD as well. Dramatically shortens loading times in any application or game.
Other than that your build looks solid. Me thinks.
I'm currently overclocked to 4. I was able to go a little higher, but i like to keep my temps very cool. I should definitely look into finally investing in an SSD.
I'm probably overreacting to not being able to max on Crysis 3 comfortably, in the beta. But i'm planning to format this week, plus the fact i'm sure there'll be drivers increasing performance before the retail release. I'm able to handle most other games perfectly well, so upgrading for just one game would be pretty stupid, i guess.
My friend is running an extreme version of sandy bridge I7 at like 4+ ghz ... plus a 690. He says Crysis 3 beta runs like absolute shit. But only when turning on MSAA. Can you confrim this as well? He runs at like 2k+ reso but I still have a feeling 1080P with MSAA will give him trouble, haven't had him test it yet. I only have a GTX 680, need to try Crysis 3 and see how this sucker runs.
Read the OP you can do way better for that moneysup everyone, i'm about to buy a new computer and need your help. i'm willing to spend about 900, maybe 1000. this is what i want here:
.
It's a good time to upgrade.all the AMD bundles is making want to upgrade my 5830
You could push your OC a bit further with a better heatsink. 1366 and 1155 are nearly identical clock for clock in terms of performance. About a 5% bump for Sandy, 10% for Ivy.I'm currently overclocked to 4. I was able to go a little higher, but i like to keep my temps very cool. I should definitely look into finally investing in an SSD.
I'm probably overreacting to not being able to max on Crysis 3 comfortably, in the beta. But i'm planning to format this week, plus the fact i'm sure there'll be drivers increasing performance before the retail release. I'm able to handle most other games perfectly well, so upgrading for just one game would be pretty stupid, i guess.
EDIT: This is my cooler.
http://www.ebuyer.com/176157-arctic...o-rev-2-socket-775-1156-1155-1366-ac-frz-7pr2
It's much better than the stock cooler i had, but it doesn't get me to anything higher than 4ghz with what i'd call a comfortable temperature.
Also thanks to both of you for the responses.
Not a very good deal at all.sup everyone, i'm about to buy a new computer and need your help. i'm willing to spend about 900, maybe 1000. this is what i want here:
can i get something better for cheaper? or is this a good deal? i want it for gaming and converting video files to make custom bluray discs.
I don't know about SSDs, but 7950 is the best $300 card out there. I just ordered a Sapphire 7870 XT it was $260 with shipping. It's based off 7950 architecture. It has fewer Stream Processors, but it out performs the 7870ghz cards. I would say its right between a 660 and a 7950. Mine came with a $15 mail in rebate and Bioshock Infinite/Tomb Raider.Anyone?
First LD PC-V7 build pic:
Motherboards are PCI-E 2/3 capable. The actual PCI-E controller is on the CPU. So, if you run a SB proc in a PCI-E 3.0 motherboard, then it's actually PCI-E 2.0.Considering this MOBO as a replacement
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813130665
I like a lot of things about it but my current doesn't have PCI 3.0. One of the PCI slots is also faulty. Figured I'd invest in a new MOBO before I upgraded the GPU this year or next. I need something that will give my 2600K little to no problems. This one seemed good enough for the price. Anyone see any problems with this mobo or want to recommend another?
It can't control voltage. Max OC is 4.2GHz and it automates voltage to get there.Anyone have opinions on Gigabyte Z77 boards? I know there were issues with their previous generation. Looking at a Z77N-WIFI miniITX board because it's 50$ cheaper than alternatives.
I'd suggest the ASRock Extreme 4 over that. Just about any of the motherboards in the OP will be great. Pick a price range and go for one.How about now?
Yeah, I've been gaming on my CRT at 100hz and with the zero input lag there's no going back. I'll gladly sacrifice graphics for the ultra connected feel that comes with 120hz and input lag free gaming. Feels so good!!!
The new Asus VG248QE seems like a really good deal right now (around $300). 1ms gtg panel response, 120hz and LightBoost hack give you better than CRT motion clarity (trade off is that the colours/blacks suck!). Input lag supposed to be non-existent too although there is no hard data yet. The Benq XL2411T with the same panel reportedly has 0.001-frame input lag which is practically non-existent.
More info on the LightBoost hack for zero motion blur:
http://marky.com/backlight/lightboost-zero-motion-blur/
It can't control voltage. Max OC is 4.2GHz and it automates voltage to get there.
I'd suggest the ASRock Extreme 4 over that. Just about any of the motherboards in the OP will be great. Pick a price range and go for one.
*edit*
Why are Newegg's Canadian prices twice as high? Fricken ridiculous prices on those ASRock boards.
It isn't a stop 124, it's something with the GPU's. I have 1.4 volts on my 4.6ghz OC which is enough as I talked to 2 key people who have OC'd them. I will probably check and see about the older driver first then ask more questions.BSOD = CPU overclock failure, could indeed be not enough voltage
Drivers fail & recovery , back to desktop = GPU overclock failure, too much speed on the core usually
first, make sure your CPU is 100% stable before you go overclocking the GPUs
in fact, it's always a good idea to run both CPU & GPU at stock settings and benchmark them for a couple of hours (Prime95 blend, Heaven 3.0) to make sure everything is working as intended
as for GPU overclocking, Heaven 3.0 is the ultimate tool ; any setting that was unstable for me would usually crash within 10 minutes of Heaven...
can you run 3Dmark stable with everything set to stock speeds ?
I was having massive driver failures with 3.10.90. Have you tried going back to the .70 release and trying those? In fact, those same driver issues are why I decided to go and buy a new pc to build.
What's dinoc? I'm not that knowledgeable about watercooling.
here is what i got:
i dunno what i'm doing. i would like it to be under 1000. i just picked some parts from the op. are all these compatible? will i have to solder anything? not sure if the power supply is too much. also how can i add this :
Internal Expansion 1 x [6-Port] NZXT Internal USB Expansion System + Bluetooth & Wireless N Modules
Yep. It is stupid. Canada computer and memory express and ncix are usually better up here. Though ncix has shipping and handljng service fees.Why are Newegg's Canadian prices twice as high? Fricken ridiculous prices on those ASRock boards.
Why are Newegg's Canadian prices twice as high? Fricken ridiculous prices on those ASRock boards.