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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

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mkenyon

Banned
Having a random issue with a rebuild yesterday. Just bought the Z77 Pro4 LGA 1155 ATX Intel Motherboard along with an i5 - connected everything and reinstalled Windows - but it's not recognizing my 7850. Once I opened it up I see that the card isn't even running. I have a modular PSU with one end plugged into the PSU and the other end plugged into the card. I tried to plug the card into both pcie slots on the mobo but to no avail.

What could I be missing? I'm going to check the connections again when I get home tonight.
Yeah, it's not getting power. Few ideas:

1) Triple check the power connectors, and make sure that both plugs are secure.
2) Check BIOS to see if any of the PCI-E slots are disabled, or if the onboard graphics are set to override anything else. If so, disable them and see what happens.
3) Make sure there aren't any random shorts where the PCB of the video card is being touched by something else.
here is what i got:



i dunno what i'm doing. i would like it to be under 1000. i just picked some parts from the op. are all these compatible? will i have to solder anything? not sure if the power supply is too much. also how can i add this :
Internal Expansion 1 x [6-Port] NZXT Internal USB Expansion System + Bluetooth & Wireless N Modules
1) WD Reds are made for NAS storage, and don't work as standard storage drives unless you do some line editing to disable some of their features. Get one of the HDDs listed in the OP.
2) Swap the PSU for the Antec BP550.
3) Get a case from the OP.

No, you won't have to solder anything. The NZXT will have an internal USB header, which are located towards the bottom of the motherboard.
 

kennah

Member
Hmm... Asus P8Z77-V LK is $145 pre rebates and stuff. That might be my best bang for the buck board.

Or the Asrock Z77 Pro3 for $120.

Or a MSI Z77A-G41 for $90
 

Koroviev

Member
With the Corsair HX650W, I only need to have one PCIe connector plugged in at the base, correct? The one connector branches into an 8-pin and a 6-pin.
 
Hey guys, it's been a while since my last post; I'm almost ready to start the building. Here's what I have so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

I'm waiting on the storage devices to arrive. Now all I need are some some fans to aid in cooling and I’m a little unsure of how to proceed.

I’m set on installing a 230mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro on the front of the case as an intake.

I am considering getting 1 (or 2) 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Pros as another intake on the top of the case and mounting the H60 radiator as an exhaust on the back.

Another configuration I thought of involves taking the H60 rad and mounting it on the top as an intake (or an exhaust) and putting a 140mm Spectre Pro in the back as an exhaust.

Here’s a mock-up of the setups I'm considering:
1.
XTf1XfJ.jpg
2.
jToWjhF.jpg

3.
YO5ohIv.jpg


Also, would it be worthwhile to add a pair of fans to the H60’s radiator to do a push/pull setup?

What say you?
 

cyen

Member
Hey guys, it's been a while since my last post; I'm almost ready to start the building. Here's what I have so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

I'm waiting on the storage devices to arrive. Now all I need are some some fans to aid in cooling and I’m a little unsure of how to proceed.

I’m set on installing a 230mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro on the front of the case as an intake.

I am considering getting 1 (or 2) 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Pros as another intake on the top of the case and mounting the H60 radiator as an exhaust on the back.

Another configuration I thought of involves taking the H60 rad and mounting it on the top as an intake (or an exhaust) and putting a 140mm Spectre Pro in the back as an exhaust.

Here’s a mock-up of the setups I'm considering:
1.
XTf1XfJ.jpg
2.
jToWjhF.jpg

3.
YO5ohIv.jpg


Also, would it be worthwhile to add a pair of fans to the H60’s radiator to do a push/pull setup?

What say you?

I have the same case but with the H100, ive put it like you have on third pic, Works like a charm temp wise.
 

n0n44m

Member
That's what I figured since SLI wouldn't be possible otherwise. Not that I'm going to try to SLI 7950s on 650W :p

try GTX670 SLI on a 650W !


It isn't a stop 124, it's something with the GPU's. I have 1.4 volts on my 4.6ghz OC which is enough as I talked to 2 key people who have OC'd them. I will probably check and see about the older driver first then ask more questions.

1.4v is usually enough but never assume and always test ;) lots of variations between CPUs, setups, motherboards, cooling and so on

I've never encountered blue-screens outside of overclocking, currently running the 313.96 Beta without issues and with great SLI GPU utilization in DmC :)
 

mkenyon

Banned
That's what I figured since SLI wouldn't be possible otherwise. Not that I'm going to try to SLI 7950s on 650W :p
Why not? With two cards, you're looking at 350W. Total system draw with an Ivy processor would only be around 450 or so.

muwahahahahaha
 

hwalker84

Member
Hey guys, it's been a while since my last post; I'm almost ready to start the building. Here's what I have so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

I'm waiting on the storage devices to arrive. Now all I need are some some fans to aid in cooling and I’m a little unsure of how to proceed.

I’m set on installing a 230mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro on the front of the case as an intake.

I am considering getting 1 (or 2) 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Pros as another intake on the top of the case and mounting the H60 radiator as an exhaust on the back.

Another configuration I thought of involves taking the H60 rad and mounting it on the top as an intake (or an exhaust) and putting a 140mm Spectre Pro in the back as an exhaust.

Here’s a mock-up of the setups I'm considering:
1.
XTf1XfJ.jpg
2.
jToWjhF.jpg

3.
YO5ohIv.jpg


Also, would it be worthwhile to add a pair of fans to the H60’s radiator to do a push/pull setup?

What say you?

#2.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Just an FYI, those EX radiators don't perform well unless you get fans spinning fast. If you want low profile, you're better off with Alphacool ST30s for anything below 1400RPM.

I'm a fan of the EK X-Res with a D5 pump. Easy to fit in a ton of different places, and keeps the pump super quiet. If you don't mind a bit more noise, the XSPC Dual Bay D5 Res is good too.
 

Akai__

Member
Just an FYI, those EX radiators don't perform well unless you get fans spinning fast. If you want low profile, you're better off with Alphacool ST30s for anything below 1400RPM.

I'm a fan of the EK X-Res with a D5 pump. Easy to fit in a ton of different places, and keeps the pump super quiet. If you don't mind a bit more noise, the XSPC Dual Bay D5 Res is good too.

I was going with the low profile ones, because I was scared, that they wont fit. Which non low profile radiators would you recommend?

The pump should also be as silent as possible. I will look after that D5 pump.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I was going with the low profile ones, because I was scared, that they wont fit. Which non low profile radiators would you recommend?

The pump should also be as silent as possible. I will look after that D5 pump.
Alphacool ST30. 30mm thick radiators that outperform a lot of 60mm radiators at lower RPM.

D5 is definitely the quietest out there if you're looking for something to push a full CPU/GPU loop. You'll want the 'D5 Vario'.

*edit*

Oh, non low profile. The Shinobi will not fit 60mm radiators up top, and the front you'd need to mod in order to get it in there. With that in mind, the Alphacool XT45 is a pretty good fit for the Shinobi XL. XSPC AX series too.
 

Varg

Banned
Can you guys do a quick look over of my stuff before i order today?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/C4Db

It gives a compatibility note on the bottom about usb 2.0 and 3.0. Is it something i need to worry about?

Heard many people talk about some low profile samsung ram. Is that stuff a better buy then what i added or am i still good?
 

kharma45

Member
Can you guys do a quick look over of my stuff before i order today?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/C4Db

It gives a compatibility note on the bottom about usb 2.0 and 3.0. Is it something i need to worry about?

If you can get free shipping definitely swap your PSU to this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...Junction&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

The warning is letting you know your case doesn't have front USB 3 ports but your mobo supports a case that has it.
 

Akai__

Member
Alphacool ST30. 30mm thick radiators that outperform a lot of 60mm radiators at lower RPM.

D5 is definitely the quietest out there if you're looking for something to push a full CPU/GPU loop. You'll want the 'D5 Vario'.

*edit*

Oh, non low profile. The Shinobi will not fit 60mm radiators up top, and the front you'd need to mod in order to get it in there. With that in mind, the Alphacool XT45 is a pretty good fit for the Shinobi XL. XSPC AX series too.

Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it, since this is all new to me. Never done water cooling before and never build a PC on my own, but this thread is pretty amazing. Keep up your good work as long as you can and as long as you have fun at it.

Can you guys do a quick look over of my stuff before i order today?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/C4Db

It gives a compatibility note on the bottom about usb 2.0 and 3.0. Is it something i need to worry about?

Heard many people talk about some low profile samsung ram. Is that stuff a better buy then what i added or am i still good?

Looks good to me.

The Samsung RAM is using a lower voltage (1,35V), but is achieving top performance. It only really matters, if you want to overclock, I guess. Correct me, if I'm wrong, guys.
 

Dave_6

Member
Hey guys, it's been a while since my last post; I'm almost ready to start the building. Here's what I have so far:

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe Mini ITX LGA1155 Motherboard
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card
Case: BitFenix Prodigy (Black) Mini ITX Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply

Nice! I was originally going with a Prodigy but I'm back with the decision that I am for sure using that case. My build is going to be damn near exact except I will probably be going with either an EVGA or Gigabyte 680.
 

Varg

Banned
If you can get free shipping definitely swap your PSU to this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...Junction&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=

The warning is letting you know your case doesn't have front USB 3 ports but your mobo supports a case that has it.

Ok, seems like there was a deal with 20 dollars off on a case i really liked so im going to go with that. The warning went away with the change and its what i wanted anyway :D Switched to the PSU that you linked to my newegg cart. Going to order in the next few minutes . Thanks.

Here is the new link
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/C5du
 

Dizzy

Banned
Does anyone know how to configure USB speakers?

My volume is far too loud. The speakers have buttons on them to lower/raise the volume, and that changes the bar on the left here.
urTlE6C.jpg




The issue is that EVERY application has its own volume. So when I load chrome and play a video on youtube it's extremely loud unless I lower the volume on the youtube video itself.



Also when I play a game, in this case Tomb Raider on steam which loads via dosbox you can see that it displays its own volume control on the right.
nxzFvG0.jpg





So right now I have to alt+tab out of every game to lower the volume and it doesn't even save these settings. I'm looking for an overrall volume control. This standard windows one doesn't do anything. It's lowest volume 1 is really loud still. You have to raise it, lower the app volume, and then it gets good control. Basically it seems like every single app volume is too high by default and will not save my custom settings.

I don't have these problem with my earphones.
 

B0HICAH

Neo Member
Hello friends.

A few months ago I built a PC using the advice in this thread. Thank you so much for that!

Lately I have been getting an occasional BSOD while playing games. The games are generally graphics-intensive (Planetside 2, Skyrim with mods, Witcher 2.). The computer makes a NASTY buzzing sound, goes into BSOD, and restarts itself.

There are usually graphics artifacts all over the screen and it's illegible when its BSOD-ing, but yesterday I was able to get an error code from it before it shut down: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT.

I did some googling and some people are saying that this is known to occur when the CPU is overheating. I have an i5 3570K (not overclocked) with a stock cooler. I was under the assumption when I built the PC that the stock cooler would be fine... is this not the case?

If I were to get an aftermarket cooler, how would I go about installing it in regards to the thermal paste? I remove the old paste and apply fresh stuff, right?

Thanks!
 

scogoth

Member
Hello friends.

A few months ago I built a PC using the advice in this thread. Thank you so much for that!

Lately I have been getting an occasional BSOD while playing games. The games are generally graphics-intensive (Planetside 2, Skyrim with mods, Witcher 2.). The computer makes a NASTY buzzing sound, goes into BSOD, and restarts itself.

There are usually graphics artifacts all over the screen and it's illegible when its BSOD-ing, but yesterday I was able to get an error code from it before it shut down: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT.

I did some googling and some people are saying that this is known to occur when the CPU is overheating. I have an i5 3570K (not overclocked) with a stock cooler. I was under the assumption when I built the PC that the stock cooler would be fine... is this not the case?

If I were to get an aftermarket cooler, how would I go about installing it in regards to the thermal paste? I remove the old paste and apply fresh stuff, right?

Thanks!

Stock cooler is fine. Artifacts means GPU problem. Don't check to make sure the CPU cooler is secure and same for GPU.
 

DTKT

Member
Hello friends.

A few months ago I built a PC using the advice in this thread. Thank you so much for that!

Lately I have been getting an occasional BSOD while playing games. The games are generally graphics-intensive (Planetside 2, Skyrim with mods, Witcher 2.). The computer makes a NASTY buzzing sound, goes into BSOD, and restarts itself.

There are usually graphics artifacts all over the screen and it's illegible when its BSOD-ing, but yesterday I was able to get an error code from it before it shut down: CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT.

I did some googling and some people are saying that this is known to occur when the CPU is overheating. I have an i5 3570K (not overclocked) with a stock cooler. I was under the assumption when I built the PC that the stock cooler would be fine... is this not the case?

If I were to get an aftermarket cooler, how would I go about installing it in regards to the thermal paste? I remove the old paste and apply fresh stuff, right?

Thanks!

First, check if it's actually a temperature issue. Use CoreTemp and check the temperatures.
 

Dizzy

Banned
Do your speakers have a volume knob?

They have volume buttons. Every app starts out really loud though. You lower the volume and eventually it just goes to mute, just one above that the lowest setting is quite loud. The only way to fix it is to adjust each app individually via the volume mixer.
 

Dizzy

Banned
Weird. I'd see if there's a support forum for your speakers and
Yeah I just found it now. On the logitech forums, seems to be an issue with their USB speakers and windows 7.

Can't be bothered messing about with it. I'm just gonna return them for something else.
 
Other than making sure it has dual PCIe 3.0 ports (16x/0x or 8x/8x) what should I be looking for feature wise on a Z77 board for a setup containing:

i7 3770k (plans to OC to ~4.5ghz)
2x 670 GTX SLI

I am feeling mightily overwhelmed with the price gaps between boards, and what really is gained from the extra money spent.

The only thing I can manage to find that will bump the price is 16+2 vs 8+2 phase. Something tells me 8+2 phase on a modest overclock to 4.5ghz won't end up mattering when considering the $100+ of dollars it takes to get a 16+2.

For someone in my shoes, other than the phase technology, what meaningful features are to be gained from something like the ASRock Extreme4?

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77 Extreme4/
 

mkenyon

Banned
How about the Gene? ASRock Z77 Formula? MSI MPower?
Other than making sure it has dual PCIe 3.0 ports (16x/0x or 8x/8x) what should I be looking for feature wise on a Z77 board for a setup containing:

i7 3770k (plans to OC to ~4.5ghz)
2x 670 GTX SLI

I am feeling mightily overwhelmed with the price gaps between boards, and what really is gained from the extra money spent.

The only thing I can manage to find that will bump the price is 16+2 vs 8+2 phase. Something tells me 8+2 phase on a modest overclock to 4.5ghz won't end up mattering when considering the $100+ of dollars it takes to get a 16+2.

For someone in my shoes, other than the phase technology, what meaningful features are to be gained from something like the ASRock Extreme4?

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77 Extreme4/
It can affect how much voltage you need at a certain frequency. This can cause you to hit your heatwall (temperatures spike no matter what cooling solution you have) sooner rather than later. 4.5GHz is not a modest overclock with Ivy. Cheaper boards might mean no control over voltage, cheaper parts that lose voltage to the CPU (vdroop), and all sorts of little snags.

I'd say the Extreme 4 is the baseline motherboard someone should look at if you want to have a healthy 24/7 OC. Most of the stuff priced below it can get kind of funky.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Aren't you on AMD too? Crossfire isn't so hot, from what I've read.

It's the only thing stopping me from grabbing a second 7950.
Crossfire doesn't have 1 frame of input lag like SLI does. That's also why it can appear more stuttery at times. Definitely a give and take there.
 

B0HICAH

Neo Member
First, check if it's actually a temperature issue. Use CoreTemp and check the temperatures.

After running The Witcher 2 for about 20 minutes with CoreTemp running in the background this is what I'm getting. Not sure what most of this means, unfortunately.

pctemps_zps1b5734cb.png
 

Iorv3th

Member
Just got my CM Storm Quickfire Pro in from Newegg. Liking it a lot so far! Only problem is the noise. I know about not bottoming out the keys and I usually don't do it for all keys, but the spacebar and backbutton.

Has anyone here tried the o-ring mod? I was wondering how much it helps in silencing the keys. I think my wife will kill me if she has to listen to this while she's sitting in here on her computer.
 

kennah

Member
How about the Gene? ASRock Z77 Formula? MSI MPower?
.
The asrock is actually more expensive than the sabretooth. And at that point if I'm going to spend 200 I may as well spend 250

But good choices to look into more.

We'll see how much I can get for my character's gear in Diablo III
 

scogoth

Member
The asrock is actually more expensive than the sabretooth. And at that point if I'm going to spend 200 I may as well spend 250

But good choices to look into more.

We'll see how much I can get for my character's gear in Diablo III

Stick with sabertooth. Style over value!
 

DTKT

Member
After running The Witcher 2 for about 20 minutes with CoreTemp running in the background this is what I'm getting. Not sure what most of this means, unfortunately.

pctemps_zps1b5734cb.png

Those temperatures are fine. A bit high for a CPU at stock clocks, but that is to be expected with an intel-stock cooler. It doesn't exactly rule out the temperature issue, but you should check if it might be the GPU. Try MSI Afterburner and check the temperatures for your graphic card after playing something intensive. Witcher 2 is a good game to stress test a GPU.
 

mkenyon

Banned
I think he's being honest. This is the guy that destroys RAM in order to get gold heatsinks.

Next thing you know, he'll be using an ECS board.
 

B0HICAH

Neo Member
Those temperatures are fine. A bit high for a CPU at stock clocks, but that is to be expected with an intel-stock cooler. It doesn't exactly rule out the temperature issue, but you should check if it might be the GPU. Try MSI Afterburner and check the temperatures for your graphic card after playing something intensive. Witcher 2 is a good game to stress test a GPU.

I tested the GPU yesterday and after an hour or so of Witcher 2 it hovered around 61c.

I'll give it another shot in a few minutes just to verify.
 
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