• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP

Status
Not open for further replies.

JayDub

Member
1.25 is more than enough. On my sapphire 7950 I'm able to do a stable clock of 1200 on the gpu/1350mem with a vol level of 1.175.

Mine came from the factory with a voltage of 1.125, so that's a small bump and nowhere near the voltage yours would be pushing.

Oh sweet!

I just need to confirm that its up to 1.25 and not 1.125...

What's the performance like OC'd to 1200? Any glitches? Im planning to CF, I can OC both cards correct? Do they need to be at the same core speeds?\

EDIT: Yep, its on the FZ1 bios and 1.25v.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Looks like I had the card in the wrong pcie slot but now I don't have any video. Just gonna take a break from this mess, clear my head.

System is shutting off randomly now too. Fuck this .
Sounds like you've got a short, a power cable is not seated properly, a bad GPU, or a bad PSU. (in order of most likely to least likely)
 
To expand a bit.

They are really intended for MMO players. You bought one with membrane switches and tech that is from 6 years ago though. It hasn't aged very well. I can see the appeal of the new Razer one that at least has mechanical switches, but even then, it's only really great for MMOs or people who entirely game with voice chat.

The main appeal is being able to have your arms in a much more comfortable position as well as increase the area which you can use your mouse. Pro gamers use low CPI/sens, so more space is always a good thing. But, all of that is easily achievable with a good tenkeyless keyboard. Go with mechanical switches and PS/2 for full NKRO and an interrupt signal rather than fighting with other USB devices for polling rate which can negatively affect frames and cause input issues.

I see. Yea, I've never played an MMO in my life, and though I do most of my communication with my mic there are definitely times when I have to type.

Guess it'll be going back. I'll look into the better keyboard options. Thanks!

edit:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...cal+keyboards&rh=i:aps,k:mechanical+keyboards

do any of these keyboards come recommended?
 

Varg

Banned
Sounds like you've got a short, a power cable is not seated properly, a bad GPU, or a bad PSU. (in order of most likely to least likely)

I got an a2 IDE detect error code on the mobo. Really think I fucked myself when I disabled the on board graphics before switching pci slots. Now I can't even get the monitor to show anything to change it back . Anyways to reset that?
 

mkenyon

Banned
The brown and red Quick Fire Rapid are good picks.

*edit* Amazon is one of the few places that carries Noppoo Choc Minis too.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ds=noppo+choc+mini&rh=i:aps,k:noppo+choc+mini

If you want something that is backlit, check out the CM Storm Quick Fire TK or Ducky Shine II.
I got an a2 IDE detect error code on the mobo. Really think I fucked myself when I disabled the on board graphics before switching pci slots. Now I can't even get the monitor to show anything to change it back . Anyways to reset that?
Reset CMOS, either via switch/button or removing the battery for 10 seconds or so.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Browns and reds will be your best best. Reds and blacks are the same thing (linear), but reds have a lighter actuation force. Browns have a similar actuation force, but a slight bump of when it is actuated which allows you to type without bottoming out easier.
 

iavi

Member
Oh sweet!

I just need to confirm that its up to 1.25 and not 1.125...

What's the performance like OC'd to 1200? Any glitches? Im planning to CF, I can OC both cards correct? Do they need to be at the same core speeds?\

EDIT: Yep, its on the FZ1 bios and 1.25v.

A program like afterburner will apply the settings you choose to both cards, so that's a pretty simple one.

As for performance at 1200/1350; it's blazing, and there's no artifacts in sight. I'm constantly impressed with how much AA (and SSAA at that) I can stack without the frames taking a dip from 60-61 at 1920x1080, in games that use a wealth of DX11 features like Sleeping Dogs.

Only downside is that (I learned after using the temp monitor in the new Heaven 4.0 benchmark) the temps push into the low 60cs and that's with an already loud fan at 87~88%. I think the Windforce on the gigabyte is pretty well regarded in this area, though, so you're probably better off than me there.

Oh gods... I bit :-0. Upgrading from a 560Ti. And I'll be selling that copy of Crysis 3 since I've already preordered (who wants it for cheap(er)!?)

How much are we talking here? I might.
 

iavi

Member
For a single card setup, is this card generally better than a 670 or 680? Would getting a 4GB version of one of the Nvidia cards be more advantageous? Plus 2 free games...

Going from a 560ti.

the 7970 is faster than the 680, and has more OC headroom.

GCN really has been fantastic for overclocks.
 
Yea, the blacks are loud. I live alone so it isn't a problem, otherwise I might consider a different switch. I like the higher actuation force of the blacks because it means a slight mishit doesn't register. Even with the higher actuation, I don't feel like the keys are too 'heavy' which I've read some people say.
 

Koroviev

Member
NoRéN;47718910 said:
Well, this is interesting.

You can actually trick windows into thinking that your clean install is an upgrade install by changing a registry value and using a command line. Reboot and your upgrade key will activate without issue.
 

DJ_Lae

Member
You can actually trick windows into thinking that your clean install is an upgrade install by changing a registry value and using a command line. Reboot and your upgrade key will activate without issue.

I was all set to do that with my clean install of the Windows 8 upgrade...but it went and installed and activated without any issue whatsoever.

I'm still not sure how.
 

Jex

Member
Hello again, helpful folks:

I know this has already been answered but it almost seems to good to be true. I can go from a system with these components:

Ivy Bridge Quad Core i5-3570K
Sapphire HD 7850 2GB
Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard
Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600MHz
1TB Samsung F3
1TB Samsung F3
Antec Basiq Power 550W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler
Sony BD Drive

and swap the Sapphire HD 7850 for a 7950 without needing a larger power supply? Even though the 7950 has to be connected to the power supply via 6 pin connectors?
 

Hazaro

relies on auto-aim
Hello again, helpful folks:

I know this has already been answered but it almost seems to good to be true. I can go from a system with these components:

Ivy Bridge Quad Core i5-3570K
Sapphire HD 7850 2GB
Asus P8Z77-V LX Motherboard
Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600MHz
1TB Samsung F3
1TB Samsung F3
Antec Basiq Power 550W PSU
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler
Sony BD Drive

and swap the Sapphire HD 7850 for a 7950 without needing a larger power supply? Even though the 7950 has to be connected to the power supply via 6 pin connectors?
Yup.

That shit is like 250w load max, tossing a 7950 to bring it up a bit is nothing.
 

Jex

Member
Thanks. On the downside, dear lord there are cables everywhere and I don't know how to fit it all in.

This is my punishment for not tidying everything up or getting a larger case.
 

kitch9

Banned
I was all set to do that with my clean install of the Windows 8 upgrade...but it went and installed and activated without any issue whatsoever.

I'm still not sure how.

Hidden partition on the hdd keeps your information even if you format.

A brand new hdd is a different kettle of fish..
 

iavi

Member
How do I get this machine to see the Samsung 840?

It's all installed, but doesn't show up in Windows. I'm guessing it needs to be formatted?
My external drive seems to be broken too, so I can't use the disc that came with.
 

kennah

Member
How do I get this machine to see the Samsung 840?

It's all installed, but doesn't show up in Windows. I'm guessing it needs to be formatted?
My external drive seems to be broken too, so I can't use the disc that came with.

Right click Computer in the start menu and click Management. You'll need to go into Disk Management and partition it there.
 

Zeth

Member
Got my 680 stable at +100mhz core, runs Unigen Heaven maxed out for 10+min no problems so far. Games start to crash at around +120mhz (~1380 boost) but it's still barely 63c up to that point. Any suggestions? Should I bother messing with the power limit/voltage or just roll back and stick with that?
 

iavi

Member
Right click Computer in the start menu and click Management. You'll need to go into Disk Management and partition it there.

That did the trick. Thanks!

E: Even got my external drive working to install the software and do a firmware update.

Ahh, all this SSD space. Feels good.
 

DJ_Lae

Member
Hidden partition on the hdd keeps your information even if you format.

A brand new hdd is a different kettle of fish..

Huh, that makes sense.

I have yet to try and reinstall Windows 7 on my old computer that I stole the SSD out of, I'd imagine I'll get a notification for that license.
 

Ragus

Banned
Ok, it's time for my first gaming PC and I'm quite excited. And of course, I have no fucking idea about PC parts. My friend showed me this setup, what do you folks think?
Intel CORE I5 2500K 3.3GHz LGA1155
ASRock P67 PRO3 (B3) Intel P67 LGA 1155
Kingston HyperX 2X4GB DDR3 1600MHz Blue Red Series
Gigabyte Radeon HD7970 (GV-R797OC-3GD)
WD Caviar Blue 500GB (WD500AAKX)
Zalman Z11 Plus
Silentium PC DEUS G1 600W
Asus DRW-24B5ST

Is this a good enough setup? I want to feel the "power" of PC gaming and I want to know, if this rig is going to provide.
 

Shambles

Member
Ok, it's time for my first gaming PC and I'm quite excited. And of course, I have no fucking idea about PC parts. My friend showed me this setup, what do you folks think?


Is this a good enough setup? I want to feel the "power" of PC gaming and I want to know, if this rig is going to provide.

Well it depends on what the price is on it and where you live.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Ok, it's time for my first gaming PC and I'm quite excited. And of course, I have no fucking idea about PC parts. My friend showed me this setup, what do you folks think?


Is this a good enough setup? I want to feel the "power" of PC gaming and I want to know, if this rig is going to provide.
Used, I assume?

Depends on the price, but yeah, that should be pretty good.
 

Ragus

Banned
Well it depends on what the price is on it and where you live.

I live in Poland, so I guess all those fine stores from the OP won't be useful for me ;).

The price is 3500 PLN, which is the equivalent of 1120$. This is the price, which I would mostly like to pay for my setup. Oh, and I already have a monitor, mouse and keyboard.

Used, I assume?

No, those are retail prices.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Well, if it isn't too much more, I'd suggest going with a Z77 motherboard and 3570K from the OP. One of the PSU's from the OP, and case too.
 

Shambles

Member
I live in Poland, so I guess all those fine stores from the OP won't be useful for me ;).

The price is 3500 PLN, which is the equivalent of 1120$. This is the price, which I would mostly like to pay for my setup. Oh, and I already have a monitor, mouse and keyboard.

No, those are retail prices.

I have no idea what the Polish market is like but other than the power supply everything looks good. I wouldn't trust the integrity of my entire machine on a PSU company that I've never heard of. The CPU/GPU are good. If a 3570K with a decent Z77 board are the same price I would grab them instead just for the improved chipset features and reduced power consumption but as far as performance goes there isn't a large difference between the 2500K and 3570K. The 2500K can overclock a bit higher so the difference won't even be noticeable. If you're overclocking I'd definitely throw an aftermarket cooler on there. Either a cheap, good air cooler like the Hyper 212 Evo or an all-in-one water cooler like the H60i.
 
The fans of the H80i are starting to annoy the hell out of me. I'm exhausting out the top, and I wonder if 200mm pull setup would be better than the 120mm push/pull I am running.

Maybe 120mm push, 200mm pull to reduce SOME of the noise.

On the plus side, the H80i mounts so beautifully in my Thermaltake case. I am so happy with my choice. It's flashy, but who doesn't love a little flash?
 

mkenyon

Banned
The Logitech G710+ that I just bought earlier in the week is a NewEgg ShellShocker

http://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-23-126-299-_-02142013_3

SONOFA FUUUUUUUU
Oh wow.

Still not worth it at that price.
:p
The fans of the H80i are starting to annoy the hell out of me. I'm exhausting out the top, and I wonder if 200mm pull setup would be better than the 120mm push/pull I am running.

Maybe 120mm push, 200mm pull to reduce SOME of the noise.

On the plus side, the H80i mounts so beautifully in my Thermaltake case. I am so happy with my choice. It's flashy, but who doesn't love a little flash?
Run the fans on quiet mode. Problem solved.

Also, you have to use the same size of fan as the radiator. You can't use a 200mm fan on a 120mm radiator.
 

angelfly

Member
Probably going to start ordering parts for my new PC tomorrow. Here's what the build is currently looking like:

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Microcenter)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Cooling MX4 4g Thermal Paste ($9.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z77 MPOWER ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($179.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($219.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($589.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($589.99 @ Amazon)
Case: NZXT Switch 810 (Black) ATX Full Tower Case ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic Platinum 1000W 80 PLUS Platinum Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($214.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Cooler Master CM Storm Quick Fire TK Wired Gaming Keyboard ($89.88 @ Mechanical Keyboards)
Mouse: Cooler Master SGM-4000-KLLN1-GP Wired Laser Mouse ($42.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $2462.78

and the CPU cooling:

pSxehIu.png

Still going back and forth between the Mpower and Maximus V Extreme I'll most likely keep the Mpower since I'm already spending more than I'd like to. Going to take two of the 1TB Blacks from my current machine and set those up along the 840pro in a raid. The graphics cards will be the last thing I order as I'm waiting to see what comes of the supposed Titan announcement on the 18th. If it turns out to be at 690 level or better I'll grab one but if I need two to beat a 690 I'll just keep the two 680s as I'm not spending $1800 on just GPUs.
 

mkenyon

Banned
Use 7/16x5/8" tubing for 1/2" barbs.

*edit*

You'll also want a host of angle adapters once you plan your loop.

*edit 2*

Wait, you aren't putting your cards under water?

Ivy under water is kind of pointless unless you delid it. Have you considered adding the 680s to the loop?

The Seasonic 1000 is huge overkill too. You could run that on a 650W PSU.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom