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"I need a New PC!" 2013 Part 1. Haswell, Crysis 3, and secret fairy sauce. Read da OP
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
v0mitg0d
Member
Doh! I actually need to do both 1 and 2 as they're separate requests from family members.
These are for family and I would really rather not be tech support for them anymore. I need something with a warranty and tech support. I currently get called on a lot.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
I can't get into my bios. When I have my w7 HDD in I can press F2 and get in. W8 takes control and will not allow me to do this.
Ohhhhhhh.
Ask laptop GAF about 1. One of the first links in the OP.
Not sure about pre-built systems. The Alienware X51 is the only system I've seen that is good value, but I'm not sure if the 560 will work with the $700 system.
What? BIOS comes before the OS. It should be the DEL key.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
I know, im totally serious. I thought more people on here would be aware of this shitty problem, its all over google. Its the uefi control (aka windows trying to be too clever).
I've tried doing the command of 'bcdedit /set disabledynamictick yes' aswell as turning off the hybrid fast boot in advanced start up options and I'm still not able to automatically power off or reboot my machine.
v0mitg0d
Member
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction mkenyon, I'll be back in a few months once I get my budget in order for a new build.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
I'm clueless about W8 stuff. Sorry.
So am I so not to worry, haha. Think I may revert back to W7, this is unbelievably shoddy. Unimpressed, hanging issues on reboot and powering on.. It's like a beta test. Fuck sake.
Wait are you talking about secure boot? Can you provide more info about your machine? Specs, self built or vendor, what was the previous configuration with w7 vs the new configuration, anything else that you think is related.
Edit: did you clean install windows 8?
GraveHorizon
poop meter feature creep
I was reading some 3D gaming thread here and thought it sounded interesting, so I was thinking about getting into some of that. But apparently AMD graphics cards aren't supported nearly as well as nvidia, so I'd have to change my card. This is my current setup.
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333
GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB
Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha (Black) ATX Mid Tower
PSU: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V
Storage: Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" SSD, Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
Optical Drive: LG WH12LS39 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
OS: Windows 7
Monitor: Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor
At the least I'd have to get a new GPU and a 3D monitor, but I don't know if I should even jump in to 3D gaming while this new console business is going on. And if I did get a new card, would it be better to SLI GTX 660's, or get a single 690 and hope to SLI another one down the line? It would be nice to play games in 3D at 1080p and 60fps minimum, but I'm not sure how well one card could handle that. And is the i5-2500K a bottleneck for a better card than a Radeon HD 6870?
On an unrelated note, I currently get some pretty bad screen-tearing in any Valve game, and Mirror's Edge. There's also a tear line constantly rising across the screen in Dark Souls, but it's not as harsh a difference on either side of the line as in other games. Do any of the parts I have not go together well? Or is there some secret setting that has to be on for screen-tearing not to happen so badly? I've tried v-sync, but it barely helps, and lowers the framerate a bit.
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333
GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 6870 1GB
Case: BitFenix Merc Alpha (Black) ATX Mid Tower
PSU: Antec Basiq Plus 550W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V
Storage: Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" SSD, Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM HDD
Optical Drive: LG WH12LS39 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer
OS: Windows 7
Monitor: Asus VS228H-P 21.5" Monitor
At the least I'd have to get a new GPU and a 3D monitor, but I don't know if I should even jump in to 3D gaming while this new console business is going on. And if I did get a new card, would it be better to SLI GTX 660's, or get a single 690 and hope to SLI another one down the line? It would be nice to play games in 3D at 1080p and 60fps minimum, but I'm not sure how well one card could handle that. And is the i5-2500K a bottleneck for a better card than a Radeon HD 6870?
On an unrelated note, I currently get some pretty bad screen-tearing in any Valve game, and Mirror's Edge. There's also a tear line constantly rising across the screen in Dark Souls, but it's not as harsh a difference on either side of the line as in other games. Do any of the parts I have not go together well? Or is there some secret setting that has to be on for screen-tearing not to happen so badly? I've tried v-sync, but it barely helps, and lowers the framerate a bit.
120hz (also known as 3D Monitors) eliminate screen tearing for the most part.
The 690 is two 680s on the same circuit board, so it's always in SLI. Pretty much, you're aiming for 8.3ms frame times (120 FPS), which would be displayed as 60 FPS in 3D since it alternates frames. Depending on the game, this is very much possible with a single 670, though some games can be more taxing than others.
You'll need to upgrade your PSU to do anything more than a single 670/680 though, which is even more cost on top of it all.
The 690 is two 680s on the same circuit board, so it's always in SLI. Pretty much, you're aiming for 8.3ms frame times (120 FPS), which would be displayed as 60 FPS in 3D since it alternates frames. Depending on the game, this is very much possible with a single 670, though some games can be more taxing than others.
You'll need to upgrade your PSU to do anything more than a single 670/680 though, which is even more cost on top of it all.
Price.
Thanks
So Im going to be building a PC in the future (1-2 months. Ill be looking for deals and buying parts when they go on sale).
This is what Im planning on getting
CPU: i5 3570k
Motherboard: Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Z77 ATX Intel Motherboard
RAM: 8gb 1600mhz ram
Storage:Either 128gb or 256gb ssd with a 1tb HDD
Graphics:Either a 660ti or 670, maybe a 7950
Power Supply:Already have a 650 Watt Power Supply
I want to make the PC as silent as possible. My question is what would be the best case/cooling to do that. Im guessing Water Cooling? Any advice on how to set that up. Ive built a couple PCs before, but never with water cooling.
Thanks
This is what Im planning on getting
CPU: i5 3570k
Motherboard: Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Z77 ATX Intel Motherboard
RAM: 8gb 1600mhz ram
Storage:Either 128gb or 256gb ssd with a 1tb HDD
Graphics:Either a 660ti or 670, maybe a 7950
Power Supply:Already have a 650 Watt Power Supply
I want to make the PC as silent as possible. My question is what would be the best case/cooling to do that. Im guessing Water Cooling? Any advice on how to set that up. Ive built a couple PCs before, but never with water cooling.
Thanks
Labombadog
Member
Can't really help much when it comes to GPU since I only have a 6950 myself but I also have a i5 2500k. Have you done any overclock on this CPU? I can push 4.5Ghz without much effort.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
yep clean installation of W8. Thinking of reinstalling now. No not talking about secure boot. Its a 5560g acer aspire, vendor (bargain price back in the summer). Nothing different from the previous W7. I'm using a sandisk 240gb ssd extreme with the latest firmware. I think it could be something to do with that if it isn't a windows issue.
Yes. The fan only turns on when it needs to. With a single GPU, it's unlikely that it will. The fan itself is a Nidec Servo which is super super quiet.Is the Corsair AX850 a good and silent PSU? Didn't plan to buy it, until I get my new rig, but my PSU died an hour ago.
Fractal Define R4 + aftermarket CPU cooler from OP + Gigabyte or ASUS non-reference card is how you achieve a quiet running PC without spending hundreds extra on different fans and coolers.
GraveHorizon
poop meter feature creep
I get the same tearing on my friend's 120hz TV. Or does that have to do with 120hz monitors and TVs being different somehow?
At $1,000, the GTX 690 is pretty expensive. I don't know if spending $2,000 for 3D games (and better framerate overall) is worth it. But I did just see this:
GeForce GTX Titan: Single-card Benchmarks
GeForce Titan benchmarks
Best scores are bolded. Our test bed is a 3.33GHz Core i7 3960X Extreme Edition in an Asus P9X79 motherboard with 16GB of DDR3/1600 and a Thermaltake ToughPower 1,050w PSU. The OS is 64-bit Windows Ultimate. All games are run at 2560x1600 with 4XAA except for the 3DMark tests.
I don't plan on playing higher than 1920x1080, so the performance would probably be a bit better than that, right?
No overclocking at all. You're saying with overclocking I don't need to worry about bottlenecking? I've never been interested in overclocking, but would try it out if it meant I didn't have to upgrade my CPU to accommodate a better GPU.
GUYS PLEASE HELP!
built a pc a few weeks ago with no issues but now it says nvidia kernal mode driver crashed and then recovered and messes up what ever im doing in game or not. even when the gpu is at minimum load and temps are fine. still get decent fps in games. I cant figure this out. Tried 3 different drivers. unistalled pervious ones all the way.unistalled recent windowsupdates monitored clock and temps while playing and it seems completly random... help!!!
specs
win7 64bit
zotac gtx 670
i7 3770k
asrock extreme 4
840 pro ssd
8gb samsung ram
built a pc a few weeks ago with no issues but now it says nvidia kernal mode driver crashed and then recovered and messes up what ever im doing in game or not. even when the gpu is at minimum load and temps are fine. still get decent fps in games. I cant figure this out. Tried 3 different drivers. unistalled pervious ones all the way.unistalled recent windowsupdates monitored clock and temps while playing and it seems completly random... help!!!
specs
win7 64bit
zotac gtx 670
i7 3770k
asrock extreme 4
840 pro ssd
8gb samsung ram
Nice. Thanks for the quick answer.
Hey that thing get there yet?
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
I'm reinstalling W8 and it's hanging, won't reboot, stuck at installation screens, the works. This is fucking ridiculous, what the hell should I do? Go back to windows 7?
I really need a word with someone who knows about machines NOT rebooting without assistance. For some reason my laptop will NOT restart or power off completely without me pressing the power button manually.
I really need a word with someone who knows about machines NOT rebooting without assistance. For some reason my laptop will NOT restart or power off completely without me pressing the power button manually.
Koroviev
Member
Are you sure you're not dealing with a hardware issue? I've installed Windows 8 literally hundreds of times and I've never encountered what you're describing on a functional machine.
what kind of system are you using? Are you OC'd? Are you installing it off of a USB stick?
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
I'm wondering if it's not agreeing with my SSD. I've updated its firmware since reinstalling in the hope that would fix it
Acer aspire 5560g, not overclocked in the slightest. Nope, I've burnt the w8 iso on two separate dvds, one at a really slow speed. My main issue is it simply will not reboot on its own. I'd rather have a stable W7 build than this. What a waste of cash :\
Koroviev
Member
Why would they?
Because they already have GDDR5
Koroviev
Member
But you're issues don't necessarily indicate the OS as the root cause. When you're trying to do the clean install, have you first specified boot priority in the bios?
Koroviev
Member
I don't follow....
Exactly.
MrCompletely
Member
I had a GTX 560 ti in my Alienware x51, it is not a good combo, the card runs way too hot for the x51 case, easily reaching 100 degrees and triggering the system to shut down.
I have a Galaxy GTX 670 in there now and it runs perfectly. Still on the warmer side, between 70 and 80 degrees maxing Far Cry 3 at 1080p, but I'm really happy with the combo.
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
Yep the SSD is the primary boot device. I feel the OS is the problem because I had W7 on this SSD previously and it would shut down and reboot fine automatically. Also, when I put in my old HDD with W7, it reboots and shuts down fine too.
Is your SSD in AHCI mode? Also, what is the boot disk order? Finally, can you do a USB install of W8? For me, W8 was the easisest install ever
Koroviev
Member
In order to do the clean install, the device holding the OS installation needs to be specified as the primary boot device.
GDDR5 are made in limited quantities, so if demand outstrips supply.....
Bucket-o-roadkill
Member
Yeah that's right, it is.
I don't have a USB to hand to try that. And yes in AHCI mode.
I've got into Windows 8 now and I've updated everything, tried to reboot and it's just hung. blank screen after shutting down and just stays with the power on, the fans come on louder and it just gets warmer. Great. Going to stick on W7 I think
Labombadog
Member
Friend is ready to build a new desktop. I put together these parts last night. His budget is ~$1,000. Is this a solid build for his budget?
Crab Milk Mickey
Member
I'm currently putting together for a new PC rig with help from this thread and I'd like some feedback as to whether the selected components are solid overall (or rather: synergize well). The main goal behind this is to have a build that'll be future-proof / last me for approximately 3 - 5 years before I'd feel the need to upgrade again when the time comes.
Case: Corsair Carbide 200R
PSU: Corsair CX750W - 80 PLUS Bronze - Silent
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LE PLUS
Processor: Intel i7-3770K 3,5 GHz
Heatsink: Coolermaster Hyper 212+
GPU: GeForce nVidia GTX 670 2GB GDDR5
SSD: Samsung 840 PRO 128 GB
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 Mhz
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB
Sound card: ASUS Xonar DGX
To fill out the bullet list in the OP:
- Current specs irrelevant, as they are approximately 4 - 5 years old at this point and won't be used for gaming anymore after purchasing the new PC.
- The above build would be mainly used 'heavy' gaming including running emulation software right up to Dolphin (GC / Wii) and video editing alongside HD streaming / recording somewhere in the near future. Other tasks won't be as demanding, so no point to elaborate.
- I want to run my games at 1080p & 60 frames per second. Unlikely I'll be getting a bigger monitor any time soon. 30 FPS would also be acceptable if a game comes around that'd really push the system.
- I guess the most demanding games I have in mind would be The Witcher 2 and ARMA III; no real interest in Crysis or Battlefield due to Origin. Contemplating the recent Assassin's Creed games, Trackmania 2 and Far Cry 3.
- I'm avoiding AMD GPU's, on a sidenote. I (and some people I know) haven't been happy with 'em and nVidia seems to have better drivers / game optimization overall.
- I'd like to buy the above parts very soon. I've been holding off on upgrading for a long time as I expected price drops or newer models to appear, but I figured now would be a good time with both nVidia and AMD recently confirming that they're delaying their next GPU lines 'til next year IIRC.
- I intend to make use of overclocking as well.
One particular 'problem' I already have though, lies with the case mentioned in my list. I know that the Corsair Carbide 200R is one of the recommendations in the OP, but I'd like to know how accurate the following article is:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6515/corsair-carbide-200r-case-review-how-low-can-you-go/5
my main concern lies with (although it is claimed to be competitive relative to its price) it supposedly not providing suitable cooling for the videocard, on top of an allegedly serious heat issue for SSD's. Even without overclocking... I know next to nothing about cases, but this'd be worrisome (especially during the summer) if accurate. If this is a genuine flaw, which other case would be recommended then? I'm looking for maintaining good performance, though being able to keep the noise levels down would (while not -that- important) of course be welcome.
I think that about wraps it up. Not sure if I've missed some important information necessary for specific advice.
Thanks in advance.
Case: Corsair Carbide 200R
PSU: Corsair CX750W - 80 PLUS Bronze - Silent
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LE PLUS
Processor: Intel i7-3770K 3,5 GHz
Heatsink: Coolermaster Hyper 212+
GPU: GeForce nVidia GTX 670 2GB GDDR5
SSD: Samsung 840 PRO 128 GB
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 Mhz
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500 GB
Sound card: ASUS Xonar DGX
To fill out the bullet list in the OP:
- Current specs irrelevant, as they are approximately 4 - 5 years old at this point and won't be used for gaming anymore after purchasing the new PC.
- The above build would be mainly used 'heavy' gaming including running emulation software right up to Dolphin (GC / Wii) and video editing alongside HD streaming / recording somewhere in the near future. Other tasks won't be as demanding, so no point to elaborate.
- I want to run my games at 1080p & 60 frames per second. Unlikely I'll be getting a bigger monitor any time soon. 30 FPS would also be acceptable if a game comes around that'd really push the system.
- I guess the most demanding games I have in mind would be The Witcher 2 and ARMA III; no real interest in Crysis or Battlefield due to Origin. Contemplating the recent Assassin's Creed games, Trackmania 2 and Far Cry 3.
- I'm avoiding AMD GPU's, on a sidenote. I (and some people I know) haven't been happy with 'em and nVidia seems to have better drivers / game optimization overall.
- I'd like to buy the above parts very soon. I've been holding off on upgrading for a long time as I expected price drops or newer models to appear, but I figured now would be a good time with both nVidia and AMD recently confirming that they're delaying their next GPU lines 'til next year IIRC.
- I intend to make use of overclocking as well.
One particular 'problem' I already have though, lies with the case mentioned in my list. I know that the Corsair Carbide 200R is one of the recommendations in the OP, but I'd like to know how accurate the following article is:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6515/corsair-carbide-200r-case-review-how-low-can-you-go/5
my main concern lies with (although it is claimed to be competitive relative to its price) it supposedly not providing suitable cooling for the videocard, on top of an allegedly serious heat issue for SSD's. Even without overclocking... I know next to nothing about cases, but this'd be worrisome (especially during the summer) if accurate. If this is a genuine flaw, which other case would be recommended then? I'm looking for maintaining good performance, though being able to keep the noise levels down would (while not -that- important) of course be welcome.
I think that about wraps it up. Not sure if I've missed some important information necessary for specific advice.
Thanks in advance.
Why not get a 3570k? They're about the same price. And don't forget about a better CPU cooler if he plans to overclock.
Less supply? That's only thing I can think of and its not even a good one
Labombadog
Member
I might be wrong (somebody back me up here) but yes, when you overclock you will start to see vast improvement in FPS in gaming and make it less of a bottleneck if you get one beast of a GPU.
Thanks! I doubt he will want to OC but I will ask. I did add the 3570k instead of the 2500k.
MisterNoisy
Member
I hate waiting for new parts to arrive.
I might be wrong (somebody back me up here) but yes, when you overclock you will start to see vast improvement in FPS in gaming and make it less of a bottleneck if you get one beast of a GPU.
Thanks! I doubt he will want to OC but I will ask. I did add the 3570k instead of the 2500k.
Yes you'll get a huge improvement, and if you're not going to be overclocking then don't waste the money on a "K" series processor.
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