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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine

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KTT

Member
oxVsVhQ.png

Worth it? Refurb and comes with a 1 year warranty. I'm building in about 10 days and don't have a video card yet.
 

mkenyon

Banned
If you need a discount, buy used. With a used card, you still get whatever is remaining of the original 3 years, which makes it a better deal than a refurb.
 
SOLVED

Err the below issue has been solved by resetting CMOS. I don't quite understand why that works but it does!

So I'm having an issue....

I bought a new CPU, motherboard and RAM (specs listed below) and I eventually managed to get everything working with no GPU installed and a fresh install of Windows. So then I started to troubleshoot my issue with the GPU and I was removing and re-seating GPU into different PCI-E slots and I occasionally had to remove and replace the 8-pin CPU power connector. And then, all of a sudden no power. I hit the power button and nothing would turn on. No mobo, no fans, no lights. I thought maybe I broke the PSU but I just tested it with a multimeter and it's working fine. So I guess I broke the motherboard then? Can anyone confirm and/or recommend a course of action?

SPECS:
Asrock Extreme4 Z87 Motherboard
2x DDR3 1600 8GB
Intel 4770K
Nvidia GeForce GTX 570
700W OCZ PSU
 

mr stroke

Member
Got almost everything picked for my first solo build, except the Mobo-

any suggestions between-

ASUS Z87-PRO (V EDITION) LGA 1150 Intel Z87
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132046
vs
Gigabyte LGA 1150 Intel Z87 2WAY SLI Killer
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZDL0YK/?tag=neogaf0e-20

will be using them with an i74770k+SLI 780's

they are both $169.00, but the Gigabyte has the built in Soundblaster recon3D card and the Asus has better Newegg reviews.

So they seem about equal?
 

-COOLIO-

The Everyman
Worth it? Refurb and comes with a 1 year warranty. I'm building in about 10 days and don't have a video card yet.

i just bought an evga refurb too.

if we go down, let's go down together.

*first pound*

edit: i wrestled with this for a while so ill explain why i decided to go with it:

- high end gpus make for the best refurbs in my mind. it's the most upgraded part and there's even that evga step up program, so i feel like a lot of the refurbs floating around are probably lightly used and in good shape.

- i feel like any serious problem with a refurbed gpu would likely show up within that first year that you have the warranty for.

- high end gpus are bought new by enthusiasts, and for the most part i would expect these guys to know how to treat their parts well.

- if it breaks after a year, i have an excuse to upgrade my gpu and that's always fun :D
 

mr stroke

Member
If you guys wanna buy a re-furb I would suggest Amazon Warehousedeals. You can find "like new" GPU's that are returns/open box in near flawless condition for about the same as the re-furbs.
 

Kintaro

Worships the porcelain goddess
My Fractal Node came in. It feels real now. The beginning of the new rig. Now I have to just play the waiting game in buying each part. I may sell my PS4 (that never gets used) to fund mobo+CPU. We'll see.
 

Yoday

Member
I'm really starting to feel the itch to upgrade my GPU. I have a GTX 580, which isn't terrible, but it should start to really show it's age this year. I feel like the new Nvidia lineup is just around the corner though, so I'm not upgrading quite yet. I think I'll probably go for the GTX 860, or whatever is in the ~$300 range. I'm not going to dive into that $500 range again. We could very well see some kind of promo between Nvidia and Watchdogs as well, as the timing should be perfect.
 
Well I wasn't sure if I should make a new thread for this I felt this is the most appropriate thread to ask since we don't have a monitor thread.

Basically my old monitor, a Fujitsu XL3220T broke today after 4 1/2 years and since I don't have any backup monitors I was kind of in a hurry to get a new one. Going by the limited selection of my local shop I decided to pick up a 23 ET 83 V-W from LG and while the touch-screen is a nice gimmick I don't see me using it all that much though for 190€ it seemed like a good deal for a 1080p IPS screen seeing that online prices range from 230€ upwards.

In general I am super happy with it, games look amazing on it, my PS3 and PS4 also look better than ever though the problem is... my desktop. As soon as I leave a game and my desktop comes back I feel blinded because it feels so bright... I played around with the settings and found that changing the Black Level option from High to Low makes it much better though in turn it feels like a gray filter is out over the whole image.

I guess much might stem from the change of staring 4 years on a TFT vs having a IPS panel now but I wanted to ask if my buy was a good one since I can return it anytime during the next two weeks. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: And just to make make my problem clearer, it kinda feels like the bright parts/colors of my desktop get washed out and oversharpened by a bit for the lack of a better explation and the darker parts feel rich of color and great... like I have a wrong setting somewhere :/ Or my eyes really have to adapt first :p
 
So I'm getting a little frustrated hoping you guys can help me out.

I got my build (Asus Z87 Hero, i4770k, and GTX 780) all installed. Updated MB bios and updated Nvidia drivers to latest stable.

Overlocked to 4.4 @ 1.35 (I know, not great), but honestly I can't even tell if the overclock took. CPU-Z is saying the multiplier is x8.0 (8-44) but it's still reading the processor at the top under specification as "i4770k CPU @ 3.5 GHz". I'm not sure if this is because I set the voltage to adaptive and it's just toned down because I'm idling or what.

Problem is I ran Planetside 2 on ultra and from reading online I should expect ~80 FPS normally and as low as ~45 FPS in huge battles.

Instead I'm getting ~20 FPS normally and I didn't even attempt to go into a big battle.

Where should I start trouble shooting?
 

appaws

Banned
Newegg's got 265's in stock!! Get em while their hot, before the miner's get to them.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202096

At that price, much better deal than the 750ti which everybody has been raving about. But, that 750ti really sips power, so it depends on your needs I guess.

I just grabbed the 750GB SSD deal off of Newegg. I think I am gonna take the leap to Win 8.1 with a fresh install when it gets here.

1. Key from Reddit.
2. USB thumb drive

Do I need anything else?

Also, anyone purchased office from the Reddit guys? Any problems?
 

jd78

Neo Member
At that price, much better deal than the 750ti which everybody has been raving about. But, that 750ti really sips power, so it depends on your needs I guess.

I just grabbed the 750GB SSD deal off of Newegg. I think I am gonna take the leap to Win 8.1 with a fresh install when it gets here.

1. Key from Reddit.
2. USB thumb drive

Do I need anything else?

Also, anyone purchased office from the Reddit guys? Any problems?

I've purchased 3 keys from reddit traders and all 3 have been legit. It's a pretty safe bet since many of them have had several successful transactions and even if something were to happen it was only $20.

EDIT: IMO the only thing to keep an eye on if you are looking for Windows 8 is if the key is a Windows 8 key or 8.1. It matters in regards to the .iso... If it's a Windows 8 key (entitled to a free 8.1 upgrade), it won't work with a 8.1 .iso so you would have to use a Win 8 .iso and then do upgrades post install.
 
Ok, I think I tracked down the issue.

I tried running some games in Windowed mode while keeping CPU-Z up. The mother f*cking core speed is staying at 799-800. I think SpeedStep is constantly activated or something.

[EDIT] Ok, fixed the issue by disabling the two power saving features in the BIOS (speed step and c-something).

Not exactly the most elegant solution, but I guess it'll work until Asus gets back to me with wtf is going on with their shit.
 

kennah

Member
alot of things will work just fine. Imo its worth going for the efficiency of gold/platinum. It doesn't cost much more either.
Unless you are running multiple video cards it is pointless. Completely unnecessary. Power consumption is going down, not up
 

Tablo

Member
I stand by my suggestion to go for a 650~ watt psu at gold/platinum. Not saying bronze would not work mind you.
A good PSU is a good investment, if he wants to save some money and get a worse PSU that's fine.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
alot of things will work just fine. Imo its worth going for the efficiency of gold/platinum. It doesn't cost much more either.

You won't ever notice said efficiency unless you're running something 24/7 anyway. Also Gold and differently Platinum rating come at a premium.
 

Tablo

Member
Do you think I'm not aware that the quality of the power being delivered to his components will not tangibly affect much? Yeah sure a bronze is fine and a little cheaper, a gold/plat rated psu is going to be superior. More reliable, and likely use higher quality components. Gold rated psus aren't even expensive relative to the premium they used to command, why not go for a better product at a marginal price difference?
 

DarkFlow

Banned
Do you think I'm not aware that the quality of the power being delivered to his components will not tangibly affect much? Yeah sure a bronze is fine and a little cheaper, a gold/plat rated psu is going to be superior. More reliable, and likely use higher quality components. Gold rated psus aren't even expensive relative to the premium they used to command, why not go for a better product at a marginal price difference?

Well then he might as well get a 4960X, SLI some titan blacks and only use 1TB SSD's because while stuff cheaper then that is fine, he might as well get what's superior.
 

Speevy

Banned
I'm buying a custom-built PSU with my name engraved into it. It doesn't actually supply any power. It just has my name on it.
 

Tablo

Member
Well then he might as well get a 4960X, SLI some titan blacks and only use 1TB SSD's because while stuff cheaper then that is fine, he might as well get what's superior.
haha stop fucking around mate.
Totally comparable examples you're making there. I wouldn't be giving advice in this thread if I hadn't had years of experience doing so for others with effective and welcome results. An excellent gold rated 650 watt psu can be had for 100~$. Oh no so decadent and lascivious compared to a bronze rated model :(


edit: also work on your reading comprehension, note the use of the word "marginal". Is the difference in price between a 4770K and a 4960X marginal? Nope. Thanks.
 

DarkFlow

Banned
haha stop fucking around mate.
Totally comparable examples you're making there. I wouldn't be giving advice in this thread if I hadn't had years of experience doing so for others with effective and welcome results. An excellent gold rated 650 watt psu can be had for 100~$. Oh no so decadent and lascivious compared to a bronze rated model :(


edit: also work on your reading comprehension, note the use of the word "marginal". Is the difference in price between a 4770K and a 4960X marginal? Nope. Thanks.
Did you really need to add this, uncalled for. I was being outlandish, you're just being rude now.
 

appaws

Banned
Is Windows 8 worth the upgrade over Windows 7?

I really hate the Modern start screen but that's easily replaced, right?

Depends on how much you are paying. If it is a reddit key or something, sure. If you are going full-priced, I'd probably wait a little longer.

And SSD prices seem to be getting cheaper in Europe too, which is nice. Might have to get one for my laptop and a bigger one for my computer, which is 64GB now.
 
The 265 prompted me to get the PC Building underway. Any changes or suggestions would be appreciated.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K ($235 - Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper T4 ($29.99 - Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X ($129.99 - Newegg)
Memory: Kingston Technology HyperX 8 GB 1600Mhz (2x4 GB) ($79.99 - Amazon)
SSD: Seagate 600 Series 240GB SSD ($129.99 - Tiger Direct) [Purchased]
Storage: Not sure what to do here. I want a reliable 2TB drive.
Video Card: SAPPHIRE DUAL-X 100370L Radeon R7 265 2GB ($150 - Newegg) [Purchased]
Case: NZXT H230 Black ATX Mid Tower($69.99 - Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec VP-450 450W ATX 12V v2.3 ($39.99 - Newegg)
Drive: LG Electronics 14x SATA Blu-ray Internal Rewriter ($67.99 - Amazon)
Total: ~$1150 after HDD.

Your Current Specs:
Budget: $1000-$1100 U.S
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), General Use, light Video Editing,
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well: 30 FPS is fine, but 60 is preferred. I can deal with 2xAA in modern games.
When will you build?: By the end of March
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe?

Update: I put everything in PCPartPicker and had to change some things. I changed to Viper Memory 16GB and a Cooler Master Gemini S524 for CPU cooling. Current build minus the GPU at the link below.

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/AwakenedCloud/saved/3Ydf
 
So, how much difference would you notice with a M500 vs a Samsung EVO? The M500 is a lot cheaper and has more security, so I am tempted to go for that. Benchmarks give the Samsung EVO quite a bit higher, but I was wondering if you actually notice the difference even when it is only a difference between super fast and super faster.
 

Durante

Member
So, how much difference would you notice with a M500 vs a Samsung EVO? The M500 is a lot cheaper and has more security, so I am tempted to go for that. Benchmarks give the Samsung EVO quite a bit higher, but I was wondering if you actually notice the difference even when it is only a difference between super fast and super faster.
In 90% of the common consumer use cases you won't notice any difference.
 
Alright GAF, so I'm slowly starting to gather components for a new gaming PC and want your help in telling me if I am making the right choices.

I have a W8.1 license and I've already bought a Cooler Master HAF-X case which will be delivered to me on Saturday and I will purchase the following components in the next couple of months (depending on when I can afford them). I am aiming for a EVGA 780 Ti GPU (which I hope I will be able to pick up for cheap during a business trip to the US late in March or early in April - again, depending on my funds) and I have not decided on a good monitor yet, but it's not a concern for now. Keyboard, mouse, HDD and sound card can also wait; I can use old/cheap peripherals for starters and can wait them out for a couple of months.

So, with this in mind (I have a Windows license, will pick a GPU and a monitor soon-ish), are the following components good enough for the computer to turn on and function normally? Am I forgetting something?

Wireless adapter: Asus PCE-N15
Power Supply: 650W or 750W for a 780 Ti?
DVD drive
CPU cooler: Radiator size? Style name? I am thinking 120mm and H60, is it good enough?
CPU, i7 4770K
Motherboard: Asus Maximus Hero
16GB RAM
Samsung 840 Series Pro SSD
 
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