Pretty good build honestly. The only thing I'm not sure about is the power supply. I don't really know much about that. I have that graphics card and it's solid.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
Pretty good build honestly. The only thing I'm not sure about is the power supply. I don't really know much about that. I have that graphics card and it's solid.
That looks really awesome.
Too bad sites like wccftech are already spreading shit about how the improvements are due to Tiled Resources, bar the fact that only DX11.2 and up supports them, games need to be programmed to support it and that it is for helping save texture memory/bandwidth usage (think better version of Megatexture).
The Kingston stuff needs 1.65V to run at 1600MHz, but since Haswell wants 1.5V it will lower the memory speed to 1333MHz @ 1.5V to compensate. You could just swap out to the G.Skill Ares for about the same price to get 1600MHz @ 1.5V. I'd swap out that power supply for a better one at a similar price, like the XFX 550W Gold ($70 after discount at NCIX) or the Seasonic M12 520.
I always give it to my brother or to other relatives.
justsomeguy
Member
Given Gaf's stance on games piracy and on cheap games cd key resellers it's always struck me as an anomoly that people are directed to softwareswap where the chances of it being an illegal resell of an edu license key are extremely high
I have a cx 430 and h87 pro4 if there are any guides as to where to plug things in.
Notebooks, boo.
Im looking forward to this but my hopes are vertex limited. If it's only relevant to the mentioned games I don't care. Just fix the black screen crashes in Planetside 2!
Objectively Bad Opinion
Member
Black screen crashes?
With the best drivers a lot of people experience black screens in Planetside.(like myself) screen goes black as the driver crashes. Takes a couple of seconds to restart.
phxxBullet
Banned
Over 200 bucks for a CPU, but no 40bucks for a good PSU? Are you kidding?
Neer, EVER buy cheap PSUs like that. I'd rather go with cheaper RAM, CPU or GPU instead of saving on the PSU. Cause in the end, this is what will make your PC no fun at all, a 500w(prolly 250w real) PSU
Just a general warning to anyone with windows 8.1 and is thinking of buying a Crucial M500 SSD.
The windows installer will see the Opal encryption support and automatically enable that mode (but not force you to set a password for it), in doing so it disables a bunch of commands in the SSD like secure erase, this would not be a problem if they provided a tool to send the "REVERT" command to wipe the drive and put it back in normal mode, but crucial are too lazy to do that, so if you get the drive in that state you are fucked.
Likely SOE's insane incompetence has something to do with it.
The windows installer will see the Opal encryption support and automatically enable that mode (but not force you to set a password for it), in doing so it disables a bunch of commands in the SSD like secure erase, this would not be a problem if they provided a tool to send the "REVERT" command to wipe the drive and put it back in normal mode, but crucial are too lazy to do that, so if you get the drive in that state you are fucked.
Likely SOE's insane incompetence has something to do with it.
Follow this image, as i said, for now dont plug the GPU in, use the onboard Video output. All of this info can be found in your motherboard manual, so make sure you give a that a read.
Did it completely like this and nope not working. My mate suspects the PSU is faulty cos I tried the safety pin trick and it didn't work.
Edit: if I turn it on and of a couple time it may occasionally briefly turn on. Briefly being the light flickers on for half a second and back to nothing.
Just make sure your doing the paper clip trick correctly, if that fails to have the PSU fan spinning and on, then id say that would be my first bet.
Also just make sure the RAM is fully inserted into the slot, the clips should be able to be pushed inwards so that they sit inside the little slots made on the vertical edges of the ram.
Yeah you ideally want RAM at 1.5V or less. For that RAM to get the 1600MHz speed it needs more volts. Build wise if you get nearer the 1K mark you'd be able to get an overclockable i5 http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3mWfE
cyen
Member
I have 4x4GB Trident X 2400Mhz that operates at 1.65V on a 4770k without any problem as of today.
http://www.etasis.com.tw/en/redundant-psu/2u-ipc-redundant-psu/68-efrp-2463.html
Kinda random - would that psu power a 'normal' computer? Got some server cases for free and might move my NAS into it.
Kinda random - would that psu power a 'normal' computer? Got some server cases for free and might move my NAS into it.
gigantor21
Member
By next week, I'll finally have enough money to get the long overdue CPU upgrade I've wanted for a while--i'll likely be getting an i5 3570k--but I'm nervous as hell about screwing it up. I've never changed a CPU or removed a motherboard from a system before. I hope it goes well...
Anything in particular I should be extra careful about?
Anything in particular I should be extra careful about?
Static discharge. Just touch the non painted parts of the case frequently or get a bracelet, they are cheap. Pay attention to standoffs for the mobo. You could also look up forum posts and articles regarding to specific CPU and mobo combo you are getting to avoid surprises.
phxxBullet
Banned
Be sure to not press the CPU into the board too hard, might damage the pins. Gently press it down, should fit quite easily.
Also, just in case, don't wear rubber-socks and touch one of your heaters or the PSU to ground yourself: You don't want to get that sparkling feel when touching your hardware, might destroy something too.
// Also you'll need thermal paste if you want to use your current CPU cooler. If you use a boxed one, they often (like always) come with thermal paste on them already.
Didn't you notice the "up to" qualifiers on every number? The numbers are useless, but completely believable.
Yes, that's why I said I'll believe it when I see it for myself.
GHG
Member
Will the 600 series benefit from this as well?
ManBearPig
Member
GAF what type of defect does my new 1440P monitor (BenQ BL2710PT) have:
http://min.us/i/G6ir884GtCKG
I hope the pic is good enough to see it. All I have is my phone or Ipad for taking photos. I didn't notice it till today (had the monitor since Thursday). The most annoying part is its almost in the middle of the monitor. Its really only visible on light colored screens.
http://min.us/i/G6ir884GtCKG
I hope the pic is good enough to see it. All I have is my phone or Ipad for taking photos. I didn't notice it till today (had the monitor since Thursday). The most annoying part is its almost in the middle of the monitor. Its really only visible on light colored screens.
phxxBullet
Banned
Dead pixels I'd say?
Why'd they end up calling them 760 and 770 if they are the same?
FlipJonesy
Neo Member
reddit.com/r/softwareswap
I got my license there for ~$15 a few months ago, it looks like they're $10 now. Everything went smoothly for me, and it does seem to be a 'legit' key.
I'm just not sure what there is to 'believe'. The only place that seems to call the driver a 'wonder driver' is Videocardz, and it's just randomly in the headline to troll for page hits, or maybe half as sarcasm. If you read the text, even Videocardz is not in fact claiming or expecting it to be a 'wonder driver'. With luck, the driver will produce decent improvements in some conditions that matter. With extraordinary luck, it will really help some games.
Stumpokapow
listen to the mad man
This is a weird part suggestion question but...
I currently have a 4850 as my video card. I plan to upgrade some time next year, and don't need advice about upgrading. Unfortunately, the 4850 I have has one VGA port and one DVI port, so I've never hooked my PC up to my television. I'm interested in doing so.
As far as I can tell, my options are the following:
1) Get a DVI->HDMI converter, and separately run audio from one of my audio-out jacks to my TV.
2) Get a new video card.
I'm not ready to upgrade (and video card prices right now are bonkers, I'm guessing because of crypto currency madness), but I was thinking I'd probably do okay if I tried to side-grade.
As a result, I'm looking for the CHEAPEST possible card that gives me performance comparable to my 4850 and has HDMI out. Below $100 certainly--I think I only spent $200-220 on my 4850 in 2008 so the idea of spending say $170+ on a comparable card today seems insane. If it can be smaller or draw less power or generate less heat, that's great too. I looked at benchmarks but didn't see any obvious 1:1 candidate.
Any ideas?
I currently have a 4850 as my video card. I plan to upgrade some time next year, and don't need advice about upgrading. Unfortunately, the 4850 I have has one VGA port and one DVI port, so I've never hooked my PC up to my television. I'm interested in doing so.
As far as I can tell, my options are the following:
1) Get a DVI->HDMI converter, and separately run audio from one of my audio-out jacks to my TV.
2) Get a new video card.
I'm not ready to upgrade (and video card prices right now are bonkers, I'm guessing because of crypto currency madness), but I was thinking I'd probably do okay if I tried to side-grade.
As a result, I'm looking for the CHEAPEST possible card that gives me performance comparable to my 4850 and has HDMI out. Below $100 certainly--I think I only spent $200-220 on my 4850 in 2008 so the idea of spending say $170+ on a comparable card today seems insane. If it can be smaller or draw less power or generate less heat, that's great too. I looked at benchmarks but didn't see any obvious 1:1 candidate.
Any ideas?
Dvi and hdmi are pin compatible. Your card should output audio through a dvi-hdmi cable.
I had a 4850 moons ago and I'm sure it did the same thing. In fact I still have the dvi-hdmi adaptor that came with it if you want it.
Edit - any $100 card should come with hdmi an be an upgrade on your 4850. A 7770 or 7790 would be a good choice.
Or get a 750 Ti for a huge low power upgrade for about $160 cdn
I had a 4850 moons ago and I'm sure it did the same thing. In fact I still have the dvi-hdmi adaptor that came with it if you want it.
Edit - any $100 card should come with hdmi an be an upgrade on your 4850. A 7770 or 7790 would be a good choice.
Or get a 750 Ti for a huge low power upgrade for about $160 cdn
Stumpokapow
listen to the mad man
Wait, really? I thought DVI didn't carry audio signal at all? Well that makes things much easier if so.
phxxBullet
Banned
Why'd they end up calling them 760 and 770 if they are the same?
Don't they always do that?
Wait, your TV has HDMI but no VGA/DVI in at all?
Most GPUs can through a special adapter which is the DVI-HDMI adapter supplied with the card. A regular DVI->HDMI won't work
haha, true, I suppose we shouldn't take a site called "videocardz" too seriously.
industrian
will gently cradle you as time slowly ticks away.
Most HDTVs don't have DVI.
And do HDTVs still limit VGA input to 1024*768? Or is that "issue" long gone?
Did you just order that PSU? If so I would reconsider it or return it. Check out these two threads on Overclocking.net on PSU recommendations and EVGA PSU info (and why they ARE NOT recommended):
Recommended PSUs
EVGA PSU info thread
I purchased an EVGA PSU earlier this year thinking it was a good deal until those two threads educated me. I am now rocking a SeaSonic 620W fully modular PSU as a result.
Anyone interested in purchasing G. Skill Sniper 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3-1600 RAM from me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416)? $55 shipped if you're in the US lower 48. Used it for a month and works great. I still have the original packaging and will be shipped in a box.
A GTX 750 or an R7 260 are probably your best options, Stump, with the 750 having much better power efficiency. They don't look like they'll lose their resell value next year as fast as some of the other cheaper options. Or just save some money and try the DVIHDMI dongle, it's worked for me before.
Thanks to Kharma45 for the build, if I could, I'd tip you. It all works, installing Windows is the biggest hassle, closely followed by cable management.
I substituted the power supply for a corsair due to supply / impatience, and note to self, get a modular cable version next time. I reckon that's worth more than the price delta.
Should I overclock? gigabyte bios confuses the hell out of me, a lot of reading to be done there.
My big concern was the cooler fitting, I followed the guides from the OP 4mm pea to processor, I'm getting 27c idle and 61c after 60mins of Prime95. So I think that's looking fine? two cores are averaging diff to the other two ~0.5-1c hotter, is that normal.
Anyway, is there room for an OC if I read up on it?
Cable management has always been my biggest hassle as I'm such an anal bastard about it all.
Yeah modular PSUs are the bomb, pity the modular Be Quiet! I recommended had stock issues. I don't think you can even get the version of it that I bought last year any more, haven't seen it around at least.
Yes you should overclock. It's quite easy to do once you get a bit of background reading done. A lot less complicated than in years gone by. Have a read over this stuff and it should help you out. Ideally you're aiming for 4.2GHz with a Haswell chip and anything above that is a bonus imo. As long as you keep within the recommended voltages and don't exceed 85c on Prime95 you can try for up to 4.5GHz or so. Every CPU is different so don't be put off if you can't get an OC stable past 4.2GHz.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1401976/the-gigabyte-z87-haswell-overclocking-oc-guide
Temperature wise at the minute those are fine, and it's normal for some variation between cores.
I think the 530W modular is discontinued, I can only see one supplier with stock and they have like 6. They have released a 500W Pure Power L8 which there is loads of, but it isn't modular anymore.
Weirdly you can still get the 630W version no problem, there's plenty of UK stock for that and it's still less than £70.
Edit: The BeQuiet! website doesn't even list the L8 range anymore. Although they do have a nice looking 350W PSU on there :O
Weirdly you can still get the 630W version no problem, there's plenty of UK stock for that and it's still less than £70.
Edit: The BeQuiet! website doesn't even list the L8 range anymore. Although they do have a nice looking 350W PSU on there :O
- Status