You need to plug in all the power cables to your GPU, i think you got the 760? Which should need 2x6pin PCIE cables or 8+6pin PCIE cables. You cant just connect 1, that maybe the problem.
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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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You need to plug in all the power cables to your GPU, i think you got the 760? Which should need 2x6pin PCIE cables or 8+6pin PCIE cables. You cant just connect 1, that maybe the problem.
Weirdly you can still get the 630W version no problem, there's plenty of UK stock for that and it's still less than £70.
Yep, I'm kicking myself.
princemarth23
Member
Well, my 560 ti died today. I was having issues a few months ago but it turned out that was just a driver issue. I am 100% sure it's dead now though (colors all over the place even with new drivers etc). Only lasted a couple years so I'm really bummed about this.
Looking to spend as little as possible for a decent replacement/modest upgrade. I'll post my specs if it matters at all:
Intel Core i5-2400 CPU 3.10 GHz.
8 GB Ram
Nvidia GTX 560 Ti
500 GB HDD
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 case.
Corsair TX650 PSU
Intel Z68 Motherboard
Thanks.
Looking to spend as little as possible for a decent replacement/modest upgrade. I'll post my specs if it matters at all:
Intel Core i5-2400 CPU 3.10 GHz.
8 GB Ram
Nvidia GTX 560 Ti
500 GB HDD
COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 case.
Corsair TX650 PSU
Intel Z68 Motherboard
Thanks.
There is no "special adapter", any adapter will do as long as the DVI port on the card supports sending audio (most modern cards do).
Modern cards yes. But in the 4850 era an adaptor was required.
So should I return my power cable and get something more powerful?
What recommendations?
As of yesterday, my new build with the following parts is complete:
Intel Core i7-3770K
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Arctic Cooling MX4
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
G.Skill Ares 8GB DDR3-1866
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB
Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 GHz Edition
NZXT Phantom 410 Gunmetal
Corsair HX750, semi-modular + gold-certified
Asus MX239H
It's my first for a lot of things... first really high-end GPU, first SSD, first modular PSU, first IPS panel, etc. and I love it. It's a monster, has no trouble with 1920x1080 and constant 60 FPS (with some setting tweaking in the more demanding games) on everything. The SSD really makes everything so responsive, the modular PSU was godsend for cable management, and before I configured my HDD, it was whisper quiet on idle/). The color scheme is all pretty nice too, all of my internal parts follow a black, sky/neon blue, silver, and gray scheme, all matches nicely. I wish The Witcher 3 wasn't still 10 months away, I'm ready for it now.
Intel Core i7-3770K
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Arctic Cooling MX4
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
G.Skill Ares 8GB DDR3-1866
Samsung 840 EVO 120GB
Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 780 GHz Edition
NZXT Phantom 410 Gunmetal
Corsair HX750, semi-modular + gold-certified
Asus MX239H
It's my first for a lot of things... first really high-end GPU, first SSD, first modular PSU, first IPS panel, etc. and I love it. It's a monster, has no trouble with 1920x1080 and constant 60 FPS (with some setting tweaking in the more demanding games) on everything. The SSD really makes everything so responsive, the modular PSU was godsend for cable management, and before I configured my HDD, it was whisper quiet on idle
/). The color scheme is all pretty nice too, all of my internal parts follow a black, sky/neon blue, silver, and gray scheme, all matches nicely. I wish The Witcher 3 wasn't still 10 months away, I'm ready for it now. Hi, my aunt is thinking of buying a used laptop for $500, but I want to know if she's getting a fair deal or if she's getting ripped off. Here are the specs.
Intel i7-2637M
4 GB RAM
256GB SSD (? It feels fast, but I don't know if it's actually SSD)
Windows 8 Pro
The computer is a Dell XPS. It nice and slim with a 13 inch screen. Fans are a bit loud.
The laptop actually belongs to my sister's boyfriend, who is actually selling for $800, but is willing to sell for $500 for family/friends. So I have the laptop with me and can check it out as much as I want. I'm kind of a tech idiot, so any help is appreciated. If you guys need more spec details, just tell me how and I'll post them.
Intel i7-2637M
4 GB RAM
256GB SSD (? It feels fast, but I don't know if it's actually SSD)
Windows 8 Pro
The computer is a Dell XPS. It nice and slim with a 13 inch screen. Fans are a bit loud.
The laptop actually belongs to my sister's boyfriend, who is actually selling for $800, but is willing to sell for $500 for family/friends. So I have the laptop with me and can check it out as much as I want. I'm kind of a tech idiot, so any help is appreciated. If you guys need more spec details, just tell me how and I'll post them.
Check the warranty you have. If you're still inside it you could RMA the GPU.
Audio goes over the same wires as the video, in the TMDS Data Island period.
The only reason something like that would be needed is:
1. It was an insane hack job on ATI's part, using the few extra pins (that are then connected to the normal TMDS lines) on the adapter to send data in the Data lsland period over them from a separate chip than the main HDMI encoder, yet not do this on the PCB (some DVI to HDMI adapters also have these pins, so this might not be it).
Or
2. ATI/AMD being greedy and only enabling the output mode if it detects a specific resistance on the output (so they know you bought the adapter).
Hard to tell if it truely needs that adapter due to the amount of people you run across when looking for information on it being too lazy to look up how HDMI sends audio (and thinking HDMI uses extra wires for it).
scogoth is still wrong about needing a "special adapter" for most cards though.
phxxBullet
Banned
Oh, didn't Know that. Still using an old LG RZ-27LZ55 (from 2007 I believe).
I don't have any problems running at 1280 x 768 with VGA, so if there ever was a problem with that, it must have been with TVs made befor 2007.
No you don't need to return a power cable, you need to plug 2 PCIE power cables from your PSU to the GPU, not 1.
What GPU do you have, post a link. If there are 2 connectors, you need to plug both in and they need to match, don't try to plug a 6 pin connector into 8pin. I assume card has one 6pin and a 8pin, both need to be connected and make sure the car snapped into the slot.
If the power supply doesn't have a 6 and a 8pin pcie connector, that's a bad sign. Maybe there is a molex to pcie connector in accessories but I would only use it to make sure the video card isn't DOA, I'm assuming this is a brand new build since 760 is a relatively new card. Some PSU's ship with molex to 6pin and 6+2 pcie but if that power supply doesn't have 2 discreet pcie rails, forget about it.
If the power supply doesn't have a 6 and a 8pin pcie connector, that's a bad sign. Maybe there is a molex to pcie connector in accessories but I would only use it to make sure the video card isn't DOA, I'm assuming this is a brand new build since 760 is a relatively new card. Some PSU's ship with molex to 6pin and 6+2 pcie but if that power supply doesn't have 2 discreet pcie rails, forget about it.
Infinite Justice
Member
no just look for another similar connection on your psu and plug that in the video card as well (assuming the video card does need 2).
It's been a while since he posted and I saw lights flicker in the neighborhood, I'm worried.
Pay attention to the picture Stubo posted. I believe your card has a 8pin connector. Notice the connector in the picture, the one that's already plugged in, it has 2 connectors that the card in picture doesn't need. Your card likely has a 8pin and the 2 "extra"need to be plugged in.
Pay attention to the picture Stubo posted. I believe your card has a 8pin connector. Notice the connector in the picture, the one that's already plugged in, it has 2 connectors that the card in picture doesn't need. Your card likely has a 8pin and the 2 "extra"need to be plugged in.
Thanks, I switched over to the G.Skill as per your recommendation.
I was super iffy on the PSU, so I'm considering others right now. Definitely would want something that was modular which that SeaSonic seems to be.
Been really considering to switching over to something that was overclockable, but still not sure on it.
EatinOlives
Member
Installed my first SSD! But I'm having some bizarre issues.
Everything in the OS is sped up for some reason. My system clock is fast as shit, it counts seconds as if they were half-seconds. All animations go blazing by, including website animations, banner ads, etc. If I press and hold a key down, it vomits the letter at a super fast pace. My clock is already about 8 minutes too fast, I have to constantly re-update the system clock to the time at microsoft.com or whatever Windows 8 uses to update the time from the internet.
Does anyone know about this?
EDIT: Never mind, restarting fixed it!
Everything in the OS is sped up for some reason. My system clock is fast as shit, it counts seconds as if they were half-seconds. All animations go blazing by, including website animations, banner ads, etc. If I press and hold a key down, it vomits the letter at a super fast pace. My clock is already about 8 minutes too fast, I have to constantly re-update the system clock to the time at microsoft.com or whatever Windows 8 uses to update the time from the internet.
Does anyone know about this?
EDIT: Never mind, restarting fixed it!
anchorman128
Member
I know you were probably just saying that to prove a point, but if you spend $150-200 you will get something that destroys your old card.
princemarth23
Member
Thanks for the tip, but I just checked and it isn't eligible for RMA. Bummer...
BIGWORM
Member
You...put the board in before you seated the CPU mounting brackets?
Do you guys think my Corsair CX600 would be enough to power a evga780 SC? I'm getting mixed messaging from my (quick) Google search.
To be honest i hope so, because upgrading to an HX750, would be another 100, not exactly peanuts.
The rest of my specs:
Also, may need to push to 16gb of ram in the future.
To be honest i hope so, because upgrading to an HX750, would be another 100, not exactly peanuts.
The rest of my specs:
Also, may need to push to 16gb of ram in the future.
BIGWORM
Member
Do you guys think my Corsair CX600 would be enough to power a evga780 SC? I'm getting mixed messaging from my (quick) Google search.
To be honest i hope so, because upgrading to an HX750, would be another 100, not exactly peanuts.
The rest of my specs:
Also, may need to push to 16gb of ram in the future.
http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp
Thank you.
Not sure i selected everything right (but i think i nailed the key parts) and it comes off with a recommended of 453w, so i should be fine!
EDIT: Wait no, i re-run the test with the same exact specs and now it gives me 514w, :\.
EDIT2: Run the test more times, and now it stays on 514w, not sure what i messed up the first time, anyhow, i hope that's not too close to the limit.
EDIT3: Lol, didn't see the "Capacitor Aging" tab, with it @ 20 or 30% it goes over 600w... guess i'm gonna have to change it. *sigh*
Do you guys think my Corsair CX600 would be enough to power a evga780 SC? I'm getting mixed messaging from my (quick) Google search.
To be honest i hope so, because upgrading to an HX750, would be another 100, not exactly peanuts.
The rest of my specs:
Also, may need to push to 16gb of ram in the future.
Yeah, that's a decent PSU, you'll be fine as long you don't overclock and use a different power source if you have a lot of accessories plugged in like USB external drives. I think you could get away with mild overclocks both on the CPU and the GPU but if it were my rig, I would keep the new GPU stock and do a mild OC on the CPU depending on temps you get. Like the other guy said, going up 16 GB RAM will max you out. I'm in a similar setup myself, rather stick with it for as long as you can, upgrading anything else makes less sense than waiting to start building a new one once it ages more. At 1080p, I think you can cruise into 2016 on it,
Nope. This case is a little special, It pretty much only works with stock cooler or EVGAs cooler because the case has a built in mount for the EVGA cooler
spectyre
Member
Well typical me... I'm pretty sure I went overboard for what I need.I bought all the components for my build. I'm not to worried about putting it together but my skill level ends there.
My build:
Fractal Design Define R4 Cases, Black Pearl (FD-CA-DEF-R4-BL)
Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache
Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 250GB
Seagate Desktop 2 TB Solid State Hybrid Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX770 Classified with EVGA ACX Cooler 4GB GDDR5
ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO DDR3 2800 LGA 1150 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz
Corsair Builder Series CX 600 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit, System Builder
ASUS VS278Q-P Ultrafast 1ms 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor
Arctic Silver
So what I need from PC-GAF:
Is this a good build for the next few years? (at least upgradeable)
Is there anything I am missing?
What the hell do I do once I have it put together?
My build:
Fractal Design Define R4 Cases, Black Pearl (FD-CA-DEF-R4-BL)
Intel Core i7-3770K Quad-Core Processor 3.5 GHz 8 MB Cache
Samsung Electronics 840 EVO-Series 250GB
Seagate Desktop 2 TB Solid State Hybrid Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX770 Classified with EVGA ACX Cooler 4GB GDDR5
ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO DDR3 2800 LGA 1150 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz
Corsair Builder Series CX 600 Watt ATX/EPS 80 PLUS
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM Optical Drive
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit, System Builder
ASUS VS278Q-P Ultrafast 1ms 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor
Arctic Silver
So what I need from PC-GAF:
Is this a good build for the next few years? (at least upgradeable)
Is there anything I am missing?
What the hell do I do once I have it put together?
BIGWORM
Member
Thanks for further clarification.
I don't plan on overclocking anything (to be honest, i don't feel confident enough to) so everything would be stock.
Also i don't plan to expand to 16gb of RAM for at least another year, so by then maybe i'll just upgrade the PSU too.
However now that you mention it, the PC is attached to a fairly busy outlet (and given the configuration of the apartment it would be a problem to change this) could a better PSU help with this? Sorry, i'm kind of clueless about it.
The CPU you picked doesn't fit in that motherboard. Decent enough build other than that. Should last a few years without difficulty. The CPU you'd be getting (4770K) is the top end CPU for the socket, so to upgrade it you would need to change motherboards (and RAM since DDR4 will be relevant by that time).
That said, there are people who are still using their 4 year old i7s at a competitive frame rate, so a 4770K should be solid for a good long time (especially with a decent over clock).
Just my opinion, but I would go with a not as expensive motherboard, a 4670K CPU, 8 gig of RAM and up the video card to a 780 instead. Unless you are doing media production work, there is literally no difference between an i7 with 16gig and an i5 with 8gig.
makeitawkward
Member
Does anyone here have a gtx 770 and a 1440 monitor? If so, what kind of fps do you see with bf4 at the various settings?
Not finished yet =P
The waiting on my heat shrink to finish that cable I just lightly slotted it in there for now.
spectyre
Member
Wow. How did I miss that? Thanks for the heads up and the advice.
I like what I see but in regards to upgrades, it's really up to Intel what they want to do with the socket.
I don't see a mouse, keyboard and sound system but assuming you have those already, that's a complete build. I think on board sound is fine for most people and a sound card only makes sense when one makes an equal investment in the sound output as well. Meaning don't run out and buy a $150 sound card if you'll use $20 headphones.
I'm not sure what you mean with the last question.
I have a 520W PSU driving a 7950 at 1440p, I had clocked the **** out of the card when I first got it and I never had any problems with the GPU or the PSU itself. Unless you already have electrical issues, I wouldn't worry about it. If your case allows it, I would get a fan to help cool the PSU. Load on the PSU matters but also the temps it's working at. The PSU reviews I trust use a hotbox to expose true PSU properties.
Updated my offerings to add in a pair of 780 Ti's
US48 only, paypal, no trades, prices firm
All items used/Good Condition
EVGA ACX FTW GTX 750ti $120 Shipped This card goes over 1400mhz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487028
i3 4340 $100 Shipped Plenty powerful for gaming, ran Titanfall at 60fps high/very high settings with the card above
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116944
(2) GTX 780 Ti EVGA ACX SC w/ Backplate $575 Each shipped
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487003
If you buy both I will throw in a free EVGA 2 way SLI bridge
http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=100-2W-0021-LR
^^^ Damn man, going by Google conversion rate, that's less than what i'm paying my 780... i'm outside the US though, so too bad.
My case has a pretty big (7.8") fan right next to the PSU (on the side panel), or do you mean like one specific for the PSU? Anyhow, again thanks for the help, i think i'll get the GPU and see how it goes, change things around if problems arise.
It's not like there's the risk of breaking anything (but the PSU) permanently, right?
My case has a pretty big (7.8") fan right next to the PSU (on the side panel), or do you mean like one specific for the PSU? Anyhow, again thanks for the help, i think i'll get the GPU and see how it goes, change things around if problems arise.
It's not like there's the risk of breaking anything (but the PSU) permanently, right?
spectyre
Member
Is the 780 that much better? The 770 has 4GB of GDDR5, while the 780 has 3GB.
Not exactly $20 headphones, but I am no audiophile. According to the OP, onboard sound has come a long way and to be honest, I probably couldn't tell the difference.
edit: Last question was meant to be self deprecating humor... as I am over building my PC and I do not possess the technical knowledge to get the most out of it. I'm in over my head.
Brofist
Member
4GB 770 is a waste of money. Either the 2GB version or the 780 is the way to go.
Okay guys, I don't know if this is a place to go for help for a 100% complete noob, but here goes. If you want to send me somewhere else that's totally fine but I'm thinking about getting a gaming desktop for the first time and I think I need some help. I read the OP (as much as I could understand, its mostly latin to me) - and I'm here with some pointed questions/answers, trying to be as helpful as I can. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Here goes:
Your Current Specs: Currently using a decent Laptop but one that overheats a fair amount when trying to play the games I care about, though is pretty solid overall
Budget: <$1000 dollars - USA
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
Monitor Resolution: Monitor can change - currently connected via HDMI to a Sony 3D Monitor that has a pretty high resolution (1998 by something I think?) but might buy a real monitor - lets say 1600x900
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Diablo 3 - new expansion (number one reason I want new PC - laptop overheats)
League of Legends - spend my most time playing
I'd like to run both these at very high settings - OR - medium settings + stream (streaming is not too important, ive never done it but im curious to try)
If I got a PC that could run it, I'd be curious to try games like Dark Souls 2 on PC
Looking to reuse any parts?: None
When will you build?: No deadline - but if I decide I don't want to place parts on back order and wait months, lets say I can wait 1-2 weeks from the day I decide to start
Will you be overclocking?: No
Ok now that I did that, here's what I really want to ask: I've never built a PC in my life, I don't even own a PC, but people keep telling me its so easy and bang for your buck and all that. Is it realistic for a relatively computer savvy person (when it comes to software) to build a PC using online tutorials? I am willing to take a hit on price/performance to get a fully built PC shipped to me, but if we are talking like WAY WAY better deal, I will build my own. If I do buy prebuilt, should I use one of those "customize your own" websites, or just buy a fully functional one at Best Buy/new egg?
Now the games and stuff I presented are not especially taxing and probably a cheap computer would do it but I think if I go the route of a gaming PC I want one that has the POTENTIAL to play better games and stay strong as time goes on (maybe not ten years, but five?).
I looked at the Haz PC build and the one that seems most interesting to me is his "Great - Best Value" build. If I was to do it, here is what I would probably do:
CPU: i5 4670K 4C/4T
Motherboard: BIOSTAR Hi-Fi Z87W (IDK what this means though?)
RAM: 1.35V / 1.5V 2x4GB (8GB)
Graphics: GTX 760 2GB (+$50) (The slightly upgraded version from his suggestion?)
SSD: Sandisk SSD 64GB (What is SSD?)
HDD: 1TB WD Blue WD10EZEX
Power Supply: Antec VP450
Case: Corsair 200R
So here are my questions about this build, if I were to go this route (this is what I would want if I do my own build, a list of parts someone TELLS me to buy, I don't understand enough to pick my own, I'd actually rather be told)"
Okay so I'm sorry for the onslaught of information I posted but I wanted to show that I did my research and that I am curious. My main questions boil down to - Should I buy a prebuilt PC or build my own? And if I build my own, is my version of Haz's suggested build a good one to start for a total noob who is interested in some casual to heavy gaming?
Thanks for everyone's help, you guys are amazing for putting up with us noobs.
Here goes:
Your Current Specs: Currently using a decent Laptop but one that overheats a fair amount when trying to play the games I care about, though is pretty solid overall
Budget: <$1000 dollars - USA
Main Use: Rate 1-5. 5 being Highest:
- Light Gaming - 5
- Gaming - 3
- Emulation - 1
- Video Editing 1 (at this time),
- Streaming games in HD - 4 (maybe stream LoL?)
- 3D/Model work - 1,
- General Usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback) - 5
Monitor Resolution: Monitor can change - currently connected via HDMI to a Sony 3D Monitor that has a pretty high resolution (1998 by something I think?) but might buy a real monitor - lets say 1600x900
List SPECIFIC games or applications that you MUST be able to run well:
Diablo 3 - new expansion (number one reason I want new PC - laptop overheats)
League of Legends - spend my most time playing
I'd like to run both these at very high settings - OR - medium settings + stream (streaming is not too important, ive never done it but im curious to try)
If I got a PC that could run it, I'd be curious to try games like Dark Souls 2 on PC
Looking to reuse any parts?: None
When will you build?: No deadline - but if I decide I don't want to place parts on back order and wait months, lets say I can wait 1-2 weeks from the day I decide to start
Will you be overclocking?: No
Ok now that I did that, here's what I really want to ask: I've never built a PC in my life, I don't even own a PC, but people keep telling me its so easy and bang for your buck and all that. Is it realistic for a relatively computer savvy person (when it comes to software) to build a PC using online tutorials? I am willing to take a hit on price/performance to get a fully built PC shipped to me, but if we are talking like WAY WAY better deal, I will build my own. If I do buy prebuilt, should I use one of those "customize your own" websites, or just buy a fully functional one at Best Buy/new egg?
Now the games and stuff I presented are not especially taxing and probably a cheap computer would do it but I think if I go the route of a gaming PC I want one that has the POTENTIAL to play better games and stay strong as time goes on (maybe not ten years, but five?).
I looked at the Haz PC build and the one that seems most interesting to me is his "Great - Best Value" build. If I was to do it, here is what I would probably do:
CPU: i5 4670K 4C/4T
Motherboard: BIOSTAR Hi-Fi Z87W (IDK what this means though?)
RAM: 1.35V / 1.5V 2x4GB (8GB)
Graphics: GTX 760 2GB (+$50) (The slightly upgraded version from his suggestion?)
SSD: Sandisk SSD 64GB (What is SSD?)
HDD: 1TB WD Blue WD10EZEX
Power Supply: Antec VP450
Case: Corsair 200R
So here are my questions about this build, if I were to go this route (this is what I would want if I do my own build, a list of parts someone TELLS me to buy, I don't understand enough to pick my own, I'd actually rather be told)"
- Is this a simple computer to build, does everything fit together easily with tutorials online?
- Is this build too powerful for the few games I want (LoL, D3)?
- Is this build too weak to handle future games that may come out in 2 or 3 years (at okay settings, not ultra)?
- Will this build overheat - should there be Fans or Cooling devices somewhere in this build? Or are these included in the case?
- What is SSD and why do I want it?
- What is the differences between the mother board and did I pick a good one?
- Is the i5 4670 a good processor for my kind of desire?
- Is this build upgradeable, supposing I become a PC Master Race follower and need super ultra settings?
- What is the weakest link of this build?
- Are there any major components missing? (I would probably add a blu ray drive)
- How do I get an OS on here, will the processor come with Windows 8? I need noob OS like Windows I don't know linux
Okay so I'm sorry for the onslaught of information I posted but I wanted to show that I did my research and that I am curious. My main questions boil down to - Should I buy a prebuilt PC or build my own? And if I build my own, is my version of Haz's suggested build a good one to start for a total noob who is interested in some casual to heavy gaming?
Thanks for everyone's help, you guys are amazing for putting up with us noobs.
Agent_ShortBus
Member
Oh man I would have jumped on at least one of the 780 Ti's if i hadn't bought one last month. Good luck selling them, though i don't think you'll have any trouble at all.
I was once a noob myself. thanks to this thread, I've built 8 PCs: 4 for myself, 4 for others.
-is it easy? it can be. Follow the guidelines in the OP. take your time. Do not rush. Use the manuals included in your parts(mobo, heatsink, etc) and it should not be to bad.
-will your build be too powerful? it's better than it is than it not be powerful enough.
-will it overheat? cases will include fans. the Corsair 200r includes 2: exhaust and front intake. If you are not overclocking, this will be fine.
-SSD- YOU WANT THIS!!!
people will tell you to not worry about this. "Oh, it doesn't increase FPS". Going off what you posted, you are not looking E-Peen with a gpu. Good. Here's what SSD will do:
it's the newest type of hard drive. It's not mechanical. this means it's more quiet and faster. Not only will it boost your boot time but every program installed on it will start much faster. It's definitely a worthwhile investment. You will not regret it.
-Difference in motherboards? Different motherboards have different features. The recommendations in the OP will do you good.
- is the i5 4670K a good CPU? YES! Not only is it a great CPU but paired with a Z87 board means you can overclock. What's that? It means you can mess with it and get a free performance upgrade.
- Is this build Upgradeable? You better believe it! Upgrade the CPU if you need. Upgrade the GPU, definitely!
-Weakest links in the build? SSD and maybe PSU. If you can find a good deal, get a PSU that's modular(only plug in cables you need) and more watts. SSD, after you see why SSD is so good, you will want more than 64gb.
Major components missing? Not really aside for an aftermarket cooler for overclocking the CPU.
-OS? get it off Reddit software swap. Cheaper(around $20 and you install off USB) and you can put that money toward other stuff like a bigger SSD.
Hope this helps.
NoRéN;107227010 said:
Thanks for the info, I appreciate you understand what it's like to be a total noob. Can I ask a few follow ups?
Obviously taking your time is important and all that, but is there anything during the build process you can totally fuck up if you aren't careful? Like a bent pin or something that can cost you 300 bucks?
About the SSD? This works in addition to the HDD right? So what would be a reasonable size to get if 64gb is on the small size? Or is it not about the size but rather about the kind?
About installing the OS? Is reddit software swap "above board"? I'd rather pay the extra money if I knew I wasn't violating any sort of restrictions or anything.. I'm a pansy when it comes to that sort of thing.
princemarth23
Member
So I've had trouble with GPUs not lasting more than a couple years. Do you guys think it's because I don't dust my PC often enough (not often at all, really)? Maybe I should up my fan speeds? I ordered my new card just tonight and I'm hoping this one will last for a while.
Could anyone recommend a way to increase the screen count on a computer with only one display Port and one VGA port? I've been reading a bit and it seems that USB to VGA might work but performance isn't that great for video.
Each computer would need to support 4 screens which would mean one VGA monitor, one DP monitor and a way to split the output for two more? Most of the screens I have are VGA only but I could probably get 1 VGA and 3 display port monitors for each computer. Or a couple of VGA to DVI adapters?
Each computer would need to support 4 screens which would mean one VGA monitor, one DP monitor and a way to split the output for two more? Most of the screens I have are VGA only but I could probably get 1 VGA and 3 display port monitors for each computer. Or a couple of VGA to DVI adapters?
Officially joining the ranks of PC GAF! Parts are on their way!
CPU: Intel Core i5 4670k - $190
CPU Fan: Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo: $30
GPU: MSI GTX 770 1.1Ghz 2GB - $320
Mobo: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 - $85 (thank you Microcenter)
Memory: PNY XLR8 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory - $63 (will get another stick later)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk - $120
Storage: WD Black 3.5 1TB 7200rpm, Seagate Barracuda 3.5 3TB, Seagate Momentous SSHD 500GB - Already have it
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout with Window ATX Mid Tower Case - $95
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply - $80
Total: $983 (tax not included)
What makes this even better is I used a $25 Amazon gift card, $50 Visa gift card, and $170 Visa card (all won over time). Bringing me to $743, which is pretty freakin awesome for what I got.
CPU: Intel Core i5 4670k - $190
CPU Fan: Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo: $30
GPU: MSI GTX 770 1.1Ghz 2GB - $320
Mobo: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 - $85 (thank you Microcenter)
Memory: PNY XLR8 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory - $63 (will get another stick later)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk - $120
Storage: WD Black 3.5 1TB 7200rpm, Seagate Barracuda 3.5 3TB, Seagate Momentous SSHD 500GB - Already have it
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 Blackout with Window ATX Mid Tower Case - $95
Power Supply: Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply - $80
Total: $983 (tax not included)
What makes this even better is I used a $25 Amazon gift card, $50 Visa gift card, and $170 Visa card (all won over time). Bringing me to $743, which is pretty freakin awesome for what I got.
- Status