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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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VE3TRO
Formerly Gizmowned
So guys I've got two Asus GTX 680 2GB DirectCU II Top Editions in SLI. I haven't really had the joy of using them since I went traveling in June last year and the PC has been stored away.
I'm going to start picking up games such as Watch Dogs, Wolfenstein, Titanfall, ESO, Division and more further on in the year.
Would it be ideal for me to sell both of these now and put the cash towards a new single card such as a 780 Ti? Or should I be comfortable with the 680s?
Gaming 1080p @ 60-120hz.
Rig is this - i7 3930K @ 4.80GHz, 32GB DDR3 @ 1866MHz, GTX 680 TOPII OC'd x 2 SLI
I'm going to start picking up games such as Watch Dogs, Wolfenstein, Titanfall, ESO, Division and more further on in the year.
Would it be ideal for me to sell both of these now and put the cash towards a new single card such as a 780 Ti? Or should I be comfortable with the 680s?
Gaming 1080p @ 60-120hz.
Rig is this - i7 3930K @ 4.80GHz, 32GB DDR3 @ 1866MHz, GTX 680 TOPII OC'd x 2 SLI
NandyRewman
Member
Hi all, hope you can help me with some of my PSU woes. Basically, my computer won't power on, unless I move the mains power cord around in the back of the PSU until it clicks on. By doing this I can get it to turn on, and once it does it seems fine, but this isn't exactly ideal. I'm guessing its the actual connectors in the socket that have gone, because I've tried it with different leads to no change. Any suggestions?
flyinpiranha
Member
Are there any announcements regarding video cards that will/should happen (and have them be available) around July of this year that people are waiting on?
I need to beef up my GPU for the Oculus DK2 and so far the 780 Ti 6 Gb (assuming it's out this month) looks to be the main conetnder. I've seen some waiting for _________ but I will need them in July. Of course I'll most likely wait ... but it would be good to know in case I see a sale (may even go for the 3Gb 780 Ti if the price is right).
I need to beef up my GPU for the Oculus DK2 and so far the 780 Ti 6 Gb (assuming it's out this month) looks to be the main conetnder. I've seen some waiting for _________ but I will need them in July. Of course I'll most likely wait ... but it would be good to know in case I see a sale (may even go for the 3Gb 780 Ti if the price is right).
No-one announces GPUs to buy that early in advance. When nvidia or AMD announce a product, it will be a few weeks away from sale at most. There's Computex on June 3rd, which could be a place to announce a GPU, but no-one can tell you for sure what's going to happen.
We've seen a pretty believable leak about the GTX 880 this week, but if the leak is accurate, all that means is the card is probably coming in 2014.
Which PSU is it? Model number please.
Have you tried replacing the power lead from the PSU to the wall?
flyinpiranha
Member
Thanks, I wasn't sure about the wait time between announcement and availability. Seems to be really low so that's good.
I guess I will just wait until the last minute. I have about a $500 budget (would love to stay under but that's not happening ... ) so looking for a sale price on a 780 Ti or even the non-Ti (depending on finances in July) might just be what I do, since I know anything new that launches won't be on sale.
Decisions, decisions ...
Oh, what is the difference between those?
I'm gonna buy a Displayport cable and use for my primary monitor, and then use the DVI-D (don't remember if it's I or D) one for my secondary.
Edit:
It's a converter to DVI-D I'm using now.
DVI - Digital connection for computers. On its way out.
DisplayPort - Digital connection for computers. Superior replacement for DVI.
HDMI - Digital connection designed for consumer electronics such as TVs and receivers.
NandyRewman
Member
Corsair AX750, I have but only with the power lead from my monitor, which has the same three pin connector. It was the only similar cable I had to hand, but it made no difference.
TalentBurke
Member
I've been wondering the same thing as well. I'm only going up to 1080P on my T.V. and I wanted to get a 780 ti but I don't know if it's necessary or not. I'm emulating older games
Cheers!
I thought the newer AMD cards were still being artificially inflated by miners so I didn't even bother looking to be honest. Still a consideration then even though I have the 3D vision kit since that will be obsolete by the time I get VR anyway. I may end up with the AMD yet now noise isn't an issue (Steam streaming, baby).
Emulating is all about CPU. If that's all you do, you could save some money by picking up a GPU a few steps down.
For PC games, there is no such thing as too much GPU power. Even if you're at 1920x1080, there is down-sampling and/or SGSSAA to soak that power right up in an instant.
e: I forgot about 120/144Hz too. Yeah, too much power? What's that?
It has a 7 Year warranty so if you believe it is the plug on the PSU at fault get it exchanged.
The card has 4 outputs. If one of the TVs has a DVI input, use the DVI-I port you have free. If not, buy a DVI to HDMI adapter or cable for a few quid.
Oh, I didn't know there were such adapters. Thank you, I'll write this down.
Btw, should my temperatures lie around 35c at Core #0-3?
jeremy70583
Member
My parts come in today, excited for this weekend! Any recommendations on what to play first? Going to be playing on my TV with a controller. Want something that is going to show off.
I assume this is air cooling with the PC idle. Temperatures seem OK, but without telling us the ambient temperature in the room it's kind of pointless to comment.
Be careful with this. Most consumer cards will only support three of their outputs running at the same time. So while there are four ports, not all can always be active. Mad has a 780 if I'm remembering correctly?
Edit - actually seems to be one of the things fixed by the 700 series. So should be cool.
The temperature is while I'm on the desktop and having the internet open.
I'm just not sure if my CPU get enough air from my Evo 212.
I have a 780 yes.
I guess I can deactivate the 46" HDTV in the 'screen resolution' panel while using the 2 monitors and 32" HDTV.
So all I need to get is:
- DVI-I > HDMI adapter
- Displayport > HDMI adapter
Idling temps mean little. Not sure why people continue to ask about it. Instead, stress test the cpu, with something like Prime95, and post your temps.
tycoonheart
Member
Ordered an open box Asus R290x DC2 from Newegg the other day. Arrived last night. Perfectly sealed and everything. Doubt it was used at all. Should finally be able to crank everything to high at 1440p.
Prices only got inflated in the US really. It briefly was here in the UK but they went back to normal in no time.
Update: Second motherboard dead. Ordered an Asus Z87-A ATX board which will go right to my friends to put together for me. My Mini ITX adventure was a big bust. LOL. I was completely all thumbs during this whole thing and I just want to move on. Probably a blessing in disguise though. After seeing more and more of Star Citizen (and Elite Dangerous), I will probably end up wanting to SLI a couple of cards to immerse myself in space sim goodness.
Betta Lines
Member
I have a network connection issue that seems to be heat-related, as it only comes up when I run certain games that make my GPU go nuts.
I use something similar to this:
In order to keep it away from heat, as well as to position it for optimal signal, and because it's such a stupid shape to fit near other usb ports, I'm using a USB extension cable to connect it to the PC, so it's well away from the case.
Whenever a game causes my GPU fans to spin up very high, I can expect to see the little warning triangle or the red X on the wifi system tray icon, indicating limited or no connectivity. Thing is, if I immediately click a link in my browser or refresh a page, it will usually work immediately, and the signal icon will return to normal. Sometimes I have to go in to the adapter settings and disable and re-enable the device, and then it works.
It is definitely dropping the connection though, even if it seems to recover instantly when prompted - I've been fullscreen gaming while signed in to Skype, and people have told me afterwards that I've been offline a while, and when I was playing Dark Souls recently the GFWL thing popped up and said I'd been signed out... etc.
That got me thinking... if the adapter is so far away from a heat source, perhaps it's the USB port itself in the back my PC that's getting too hot? After all, it is fairly near the GPU. So I've been playing around, trying all available ports and it's doesn't make any difference (and anyway, how could it - the adapter itself is still showing as a USB device, and all my other USB devices plugged into the same sockets aren't failing under the same conditions).
What could it be? If anyone can shed some light I'd be very grateful!
I use something similar to this:
In order to keep it away from heat, as well as to position it for optimal signal, and because it's such a stupid shape to fit near other usb ports, I'm using a USB extension cable to connect it to the PC, so it's well away from the case.
Whenever a game causes my GPU fans to spin up very high, I can expect to see the little warning triangle or the red X on the wifi system tray icon, indicating limited or no connectivity. Thing is, if I immediately click a link in my browser or refresh a page, it will usually work immediately, and the signal icon will return to normal. Sometimes I have to go in to the adapter settings and disable and re-enable the device, and then it works.
It is definitely dropping the connection though, even if it seems to recover instantly when prompted - I've been fullscreen gaming while signed in to Skype, and people have told me afterwards that I've been offline a while, and when I was playing Dark Souls recently the GFWL thing popped up and said I'd been signed out... etc.
That got me thinking... if the adapter is so far away from a heat source, perhaps it's the USB port itself in the back my PC that's getting too hot? After all, it is fairly near the GPU. So I've been playing around, trying all available ports and it's doesn't make any difference (and anyway, how could it - the adapter itself is still showing as a USB device, and all my other USB devices plugged into the same sockets aren't failing under the same conditions).
What could it be? If anyone can shed some light I'd be very grateful!
RumblingRosco
Member
To this day I still say Just Cause 2 is a great showpiece and a ton of fun to load up and blow shit up.
MR ARCADE FOREVER
Member
That's exciting!!! I'm planning in doing the same
Can't wait to get started.
Nice!Can't wait to get started.
Good motherboard choice, love my Sniper M5. Lots of good choices in there!
Infinite Justice
Member
Prophet Steve
Member
Can't wait to get started.
Is it me or does that looks like a huge box for a DVD Writer?
Eh, might be me.
Big Takeover
Member
I have a network connection issue that seems to be heat-related, as it only comes up when I run certain games that make my GPU go nuts.
I use something similar to this:
In order to keep it away from heat, as well as to position it for optimal signal, and because it's such a stupid shape to fit near other usb ports, I'm using a USB extension cable to connect it to the PC, so it's well away from the case.
Whenever a game causes my GPU fans to spin up very high, I can expect to see the little warning triangle or the red X on the wifi system tray icon, indicating limited or no connectivity. Thing is, if I immediately click a link in my browser or refresh a page, it will usually work immediately, and the signal icon will return to normal. Sometimes I have to go in to the adapter settings and disable and re-enable the device, and then it works.
It is definitely dropping the connection though, even if it seems to recover instantly when prompted - I've been fullscreen gaming while signed in to Skype, and people have told me afterwards that I've been offline a while, and when I was playing Dark Souls recently the GFWL thing popped up and said I'd been signed out... etc.
That got me thinking... if the adapter is so far away from a heat source, perhaps it's the USB port itself in the back my PC that's getting too hot? After all, it is fairly near the GPU. So I've been playing around, trying all available ports and it's doesn't make any difference (and anyway, how could it - the adapter itself is still showing as a USB device, and all my other USB devices plugged into the same sockets aren't failing under the same conditions).
What could it be? If anyone can shed some light I'd be very grateful!
I see the dongle is USB2, but is it connected to a USB3 port? USB3 is known to cause 2.4 GHz interference. Google it. Try a front USB2 port if you've got one.
Whatever it is, I don't think it's heat. It's either interference or a power issue.
XJF
Member
Hey guys, How's this PC look to you all? I'm in the market for a new one. I know ordering pieces and making your own is generally cheaper, but frankly i don't feel like doing it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPG7ZDC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm not going to be doing any gaming on it whatsoever. Just Basic web-browsing, Ripping CD's and Blu-Rays (with an External BRD Drive). Think it'll suffice? I've heard the Graphics card on it is nothing special. Will that be a problem?
Here's the specs for those who prefer not to go to a different site.
Processor
4th Generation Intel Core i5-4430 Processor
Operating system
Windows 8
Memory (RAM)
10GB PC3-12800 DDR3
Hard drive
2TB (7200RPM) SATA; 128GB SATA 6G solid-state drive
Wireless
Integrated Bluetooth 4.0 and Wireless LAN 802.11b/g/n featuring Single-band (2.4Ghz) 1x1 technology
Optical drive
SuperMulti DVD Burner
Video graphics
Intel HD Graphics 4600. Up to 1792MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows 8
Thoughts,?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPG7ZDC/?tag=neogaf0e-20
I'm not going to be doing any gaming on it whatsoever. Just Basic web-browsing, Ripping CD's and Blu-Rays (with an External BRD Drive). Think it'll suffice? I've heard the Graphics card on it is nothing special. Will that be a problem?
Here's the specs for those who prefer not to go to a different site.
Processor
4th Generation Intel Core i5-4430 Processor
Operating system
Windows 8
Memory (RAM)
10GB PC3-12800 DDR3
Hard drive
2TB (7200RPM) SATA; 128GB SATA 6G solid-state drive
Wireless
Integrated Bluetooth 4.0 and Wireless LAN 802.11b/g/n featuring Single-band (2.4Ghz) 1x1 technology
Optical drive
SuperMulti DVD Burner
Video graphics
Intel HD Graphics 4600. Up to 1792MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows 8
Thoughts,?
Betta Lines
Member
Thanks for the reply! I have no USB3 ports on my PC. I've tried it on almost every port and I get the same results, even using the ones that pass through my monitor. With the extension cable and the monitor cables, the adapter is surely far enough away from interference, but it still happens (although ultimately it's still going into the same USB connection on the motherboard so I guess... the interference could be.. on that end? I guess you meant interference with the wi-fi signal going to the antenna though...)
As for power, no doubt the system is drawing the most power during these games that run hot. But all the other USB devices aren't failing during this time... for instance, I have a USB soundcard that has no separate power supply, so that would surely be a clear indication of power loss through USB, but I've never had sound issues.
Groovy. Given my luck though, maybe I shouldn't push it. lol
Doesn't matter from a technical standpoint. But practically, it makes some sense. The process of testing an over-clock can cause OS blue-screen exceptions to occur.
It's possible (but pretty unlikely nowadays) that you could junk your OS install. Makes some sense to get the over-clock stable with a relatively clean installation so that you don't waste time restoring everything should the worst happen.
XJF
Member
Wow, that thing looks tiny. Almost doesn't look practical, not that I claim to have excessive knowledge on computers. The 2TB drive is just about bare minimum for me given my rather large music collection. I actually prefer to have the expansion bays like on the one I posted for addition drives. Thanks for the suggestion, though
Nostremitus
Member
XJF
Member
Mainly I just like the classic larger tower. They fit nice in my computer desk. It wouldn't look right with a lot of empty space.
Not to mention the Intel one specifies 16GB maximum memory. I would eventually like to upgrade to 32GB at some point
Big Takeover
Member
Hmm, yeah if you don't have any USB3 ports I wouldn't worry about interference. It shouldn't be a problem. Power-wise, it's really hard to say. Every peripheral seems to have a slightly different tolerance. USB wifi, USB soundcard, T500, you've definitely got some stuff hooked up to it
Maybe off-loading a few things to a powered hub might help the situation.Is this a recently developed issue, or has it been going on for a long as you've had the adapter/system/mobo/gfx card?
Depending on what you are looking for, you'll probably have to wait for a long time to get anything better than what you can get now.
Very slight bump to Intel CPUs in progress, unlocked versions in summer. Haswell-E in Fall. None of this is going to make an appreciable difference for gaming.
Next ultra-high end GPU releases probably around end of the year or later. Midrange cards with better price/performance than old midrange may or may not show up earlier than that, but unfortunately no one knows.
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