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"I Need a New PC!" 2014 Part 1. 1080p and 60FPS is so last-gen and your 2500K is fine
- Thread starter Hazaro
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All in one/Closed Loop coolers don't need any maintenance. It's custom loop ones that do.
The Teachinator
Banned
Qnix is where it's at.
xBladeM6x
Member
Does that mean you also do not need to add any water to it once you first open it? (It's already inside / ships that way?)
For some reason I feel stupid beyond reason for asking that. Lol
It ships to you without you needing to add any water or anything. It is a complete CLOSED Loop. Meaning you can't open it without wrecking it.
Google some pictures of it and it will make sense.
EDIT: Hell, on this very page you can see.
See how it is all together? The black tubes from the CPU mount to the Radiator? It's all shipped together like that. You can't change any of it.
10/10, you even oriented the rear fan correctly! So many people have that exhaust because that's what they're setup as. Getting that fresh air to the rad as well as all over your motherboard. Awesome job.
so where is the exhaust? or is there none, ie positive pressure?
xBladeM6x
Member
Thanks. I saw it, and that's why I was asking specifics. I'm assuming they also have a super low failure rate where they burst and kill everything in your PC. Lol
Sword Of Doom
Member
What's gonna exhaust the warm air from the graphics card?
Out the top through the rad.
Stuff runs so cool these days it doesn't even really matter.
I wasn't trying to be grumpy
Failure rate is pretty low. There has even been one gaffer report of a leaky H60. Just be careful not to pull too hard on the tubes and you should be fine.It ships to you without you needing to add any water or anything. It is a complete CLOSED Loop. Meaning you can't open it without wrecking it.
Google some pictures of it and it will make sense.
EDIT: Hell, on this very page you can see.
See how it is all together? The black tubes from the CPU mount to the Radiator? It's all shipped together like that. You can't change any of it.
Pretty sure those top fans (on the cpu water cooling radiator) are placed the wrong way up ...
I know because I had to set similar fans up a few weeks ago.
Maybe the case doesn't have air holes at the top...
It's just fine. Exhausting all the air out the top. (Has the fan on the back pointing the wrong way in this pic)
Nope, it's setup correctly. They're pushing air through the rad, then out the top.
Top fans and positive pressure.
Out the top through the rad.
Stuff runs so cool these days it doesn't even really matter.
I wasn't trying to be grumpy
I thought rad was supposed to bring cool air in from outside. I like the idea of the rear fan blowing on the vrams though
xBladeM6x
Member
Out the top through the rad.
Stuff runs so cool these days it doesn't even really matter.
I wasn't trying to be grumpy
I remember reading that there's a slight space between the plastic and the tubing. Would super gluing the space between possibly help it to never leak? (I don't mind ghetto rigging things so they never fault like that)
Think of it this way. Bringing air IN through the radiator would be dumping all the hot radiator air inside the case.
Since he doesn't have a huge heatsink on the CPU itself, the rear exhaust becomes less important. And since he is bringing cool air in right there, the GPU air won't have a chance to really heat up everything else.
And really ... what is in there to be heated up? The Hard drives are all below the GPU and the CPU heat is all being transferred right to the top of the case.
Never do that - you don't know how the glue will react with the plastic. It might make it more brittle or be corrosive enough to cause a leak.
These things are engineered in a particular way for a reason. If you are really that paranoid, then you could possibly use some plumbers tape, but I really wouldn't bother. That GAP is just for the cosmetic ring. There would be a tight connection at the bottom where the barb is inside the tube. The gap means nothing.
anyone play dark souls pc on windows 8?
Having major problems and figured I'd try here first to rule out hardware and then move on.
I have a recent build (4770k, gigabyte z87 ud4h, 2x4 gig crucial ballistix, gigabyte 770 OC, 250gb EVO SSD)
I have the game through steam. I've followed every guide I could find that involves uninstalling the old games for windows live and reinstalling a new version, not using dsfix, etc etc etc. I have uninstalled and reinstalled more times than I can count
The trouble is my problem seems unique. Everyone else gets a black screen or an executable failure, but my system hangs instantly every time i start the game. There's no mention of hard lockups on the net. No blue screen, no error, no sound loop, just a hard kernel lock. I've reseated and tested my ram and un-overclocked and re-overclocked the cpu to no avail. procmon won't even update fast enough to let me see what is being accessed when it freezes (it's different every time).
Any ideas? If I can rule out hardware I'll move on to something else.
Having major problems and figured I'd try here first to rule out hardware and then move on.
I have a recent build (4770k, gigabyte z87 ud4h, 2x4 gig crucial ballistix, gigabyte 770 OC, 250gb EVO SSD)
I have the game through steam. I've followed every guide I could find that involves uninstalling the old games for windows live and reinstalling a new version, not using dsfix, etc etc etc. I have uninstalled and reinstalled more times than I can count
The trouble is my problem seems unique. Everyone else gets a black screen or an executable failure, but my system hangs instantly every time i start the game. There's no mention of hard lockups on the net. No blue screen, no error, no sound loop, just a hard kernel lock. I've reseated and tested my ram and un-overclocked and re-overclocked the cpu to no avail. procmon won't even update fast enough to let me see what is being accessed when it freezes (it's different every time).
Any ideas? If I can rule out hardware I'll move on to something else.
xBladeM6x
Member
*Shakes fist at Windows 8*
Had it the other way around first but I changed it, gotta have that air.
Sword Of Doom
Member
You're providing air from the front if you have fans there. Plus if there is space in the bottom you can have fresh air coming from the bottom too. I would exhaust the video card air with the rear exhaust. That card is gonna produce a ton of hot air. Also the rear exhaust will not only exhaust the hot video card air but it will also draw the cool air towards the rear/top of the case for the radiator to use. Right now you're gonna be blowing that hot graphics card air through the radiator.
- Go to the game's exe
- right click on exe
- click "Properties"
- click on the Compatibility tab
- check off the "Run this program in compatibility mode for:"
- choose Windows 7 from the dropdown menu
- click "Apply"
- exit menu
- try again
If you're using DSfix, remove it, then do the above, then start the game, then install DSfix.
Stormtrooper30
Member
Just OC'ed my i5 750 to 4.0 GHz and right now looking like it is hovering around 75 C at 100% load in prime95, maxing at 77. Is that running too hot?
Dice
Pokémon Parentage Conspiracy Theorist
Not unless your room gets a lot hotter than it is now over the summer.
I'd wait for the new cards
Felix Lighter
Member
I've had an i7 930 (same gen) @ 3.9Ghz since 2010 that hits the high 70s while running prime95 and I've had zero issues. Temps don't come close to that while gaming and the chip should be able to handle it. What voltage?
Perfectly fine.
I left something out: I'm replacing a dead GTX 680 lol
We'll see, I'll leave it for the time being. I don't think I'm gonna have any problems either way.
A good cooled 290 is the best value replacement right now if you don't mind AMD.
Stormtrooper30
Member
Oh awesome, that's good to hear. I'm just trying to irk as much out of this system until Devil's Canyon generation see a price drop (probably this time next year).
Currently running at a CPU Vcore voltage of 1.3625V.
Others are:
QPI/VTT 1.370V
PCH 1.160V
CPU PLL 1.920V
DRAM 1.660V
Just ordered a 280x and 8gb of RAM to replace my old GTX 460 and 4 gb
Hey GAF, a friend of mine is building his first PC, and he ran into some problems. He can't get the computer to boot. Everything was properly installed, ram, gpu, cpu, etc. to the motherboard and psu. So I don't believe it was a wiring issue he had. So the first possible issue I saw was that he didn't use standoffs on his motherboard initially so he installed it directly to the case without using standoffs.
However he said when he first tried it, he got a green light by the GPU and CPU on the motherboard, but nothing was booting still (This was when the standoffs weren't used).
So I suggested to him try putting standoffs in the case and then put in the motherboard. So he did, but then he managed to get a small screw inside the power supply so he took it out a shook it a few times to get it out, then he noticed a white paste all over inside but didn't think it was an issue so he plugged it in again to try it. Now this time there aren't any green lights on the motherboard at all.
Everything was plugged in correctly. We triple checked everything, read manuals to ensure that every component was properly installed. Searched all over for any suggestions but nothing.
So GAF, considering my friend shook the PSU and white paste got all over inside (I know in some cases it isn't bad) and that fact that he installed the motherboard in the case without stand offs (he also told me touched a few parts on the motherboard with his hands/screws/screw driver if that's important) do you guys think the power supply or motherboard is the issue here? Did he break the motherboard by touching it too roughly or by directly screwing it to the case?
However he said when he first tried it, he got a green light by the GPU and CPU on the motherboard, but nothing was booting still (This was when the standoffs weren't used).
So I suggested to him try putting standoffs in the case and then put in the motherboard. So he did, but then he managed to get a small screw inside the power supply so he took it out a shook it a few times to get it out, then he noticed a white paste all over inside but didn't think it was an issue so he plugged it in again to try it. Now this time there aren't any green lights on the motherboard at all.
Everything was plugged in correctly. We triple checked everything, read manuals to ensure that every component was properly installed. Searched all over for any suggestions but nothing.
So GAF, considering my friend shook the PSU and white paste got all over inside (I know in some cases it isn't bad) and that fact that he installed the motherboard in the case without stand offs (he also told me touched a few parts on the motherboard with his hands/screws/screw driver if that's important) do you guys think the power supply or motherboard is the issue here? Did he break the motherboard by touching it too roughly or by directly screwing it to the case?
Paperclip test the PSU
Do the trouble shooting steps in the OP or second post (HELP MY PC WONT BOOT)
Not sure about the white paste in PSU... Anything like that should have set months ago into something hard...
oconnomiyaki
Member
So I'm looking at finally upgrading my Stone Age i5 750. I'm looking at two CPUs on special right now and wondering which of the two I should be going for? Value for money is certainly a concern but I'd rather get the processor that's going to last me for the longest in terms of being relevant.
i5-4670k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i5-4670K-3.4GHz-6MB-LGA1150---
i5-4770k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i7-4770K-3.5GHz-8MB-LGA1150---
For reference, in the rest of the box current is 8GB of DDR3 and a 660. So if the CPU choice is going to require me to get a monster PSU, I'd like to know that as well.
Thanks in advance for the help.
i5-4670k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i5-4670K-3.4GHz-6MB-LGA1150---
i5-4770k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i7-4770K-3.5GHz-8MB-LGA1150---
For reference, in the rest of the box current is 8GB of DDR3 and a 660. So if the CPU choice is going to require me to get a monster PSU, I'd like to know that as well.
Thanks in advance for the help.
shiftplusone
Member
ugh
sometimes I want to get rid of this 27" 1440p korean monitor and just get another nice 24"
the difference between this one and the dell ultrasharp next to it is insane
what do, gaf
sometimes I want to get rid of this 27" 1440p korean monitor and just get another nice 24"
the difference between this one and the dell ultrasharp next to it is insane
what do, gaf
Yes we've tried everything in trouble shooting steps. We're testing the PSU later tonight. If the PSU is indeed broken, and we get a new one but the PC still doesn't boot, would the motherboard be the culprit most likely? How delicate is the motherboard actually? Appreciate any responses, thanks you!
xBladeM6x
Member
Are you saying the size is the problem, or the quality of the screen?
Post your current specs and fill out the bullet sheet.So I'm looking at finally upgrading my Stone Age i5 750. I'm looking at two CPUs on special right now and wondering which of the two I should be going for? Value for money is certainly a concern but I'd rather get the processor that's going to last me for the longest in terms of being relevant.
i5-4670k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i5-4670K-3.4GHz-6MB-LGA1150---
i5-4770k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i7-4770K-3.5GHz-8MB-LGA1150---
For reference, in the rest of the box current is 8GB of DDR3 and a 660. So if the CPU choice is going to require me to get a monster PSU, I'd like to know that as well.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Most likely a Z97 board and 4790K is the answer.
PSU is fine.
Probably Mobo, possibly CPU.
What problem do you get with bare minimum assembled outside of the case?
xBladeM6x
Member
Might as well go with the 4770k. Also, get it way cheaper from Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116901So I'm looking at finally upgrading my Stone Age i5 750. I'm looking at two CPUs on special right now and wondering which of the two I should be going for? Value for money is certainly a concern but I'd rather get the processor that's going to last me for the longest in terms of being relevant.
i5-4670k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i5-4670K-3.4GHz-6MB-LGA1150---
i5-4770k
http://www.pbtech.co.nz/index.php?z...-Haswell--Core-i7-4770K-3.5GHz-8MB-LGA1150---
For reference, in the rest of the box current is 8GB of DDR3 and a 660. So if the CPU choice is going to require me to get a monster PSU, I'd like to know that as well.
Thanks in advance for the help.
oconnomiyaki
Member
Ah, I like to buy locally because then I'm covered by my local consumer laws.
EDIT: Also, with shipping and taxes, it probably won't be much cheaper.
Same thing. Nothing turns on, no lights or any indication of it working. Before my friend shook the PSU we had at least the motherboard green lights come on, but after he shook it and re-installed the mobo in the case with standoffs this time nothing works. My assumption is he either broke the PSU or fried the mobo, but I'm no expert.
oconnomiyaki can't upgrade from an i5 750 to that chip so they need a new mobo at the very least. Hence filling out the bullet points.
And an i5 750 running at 3.6Ghz+ is not really a slouch either.
xBladeM6x
Member
Ah, sorry. I wasn't exactly looking at specifics, I was just stating which one to get, if you're going to choose.
oconnomiyaki
Member
Sorry, I'm a bit lost. Do you mean bullet points for my new build or my current one?
I know I'll need to get another motherboard. I figured that was a given. All I'll look at transferring over is the RAM, HDD, and video card. I might even replace the case at this point as I found a nice orange one.
I have an old 480 I'm going to stick in with the old CPU/MOBO and eventually some cheap RAM and use it as a TV box.
Ah, sorry. I wasn't exactly looking at specifics, I was just stating which one to get, if you're going to choose.
What about a general 4770? It's a little cheaper than the K and I can't see too much difference that would affect me?
xBladeM6x
Member
If you're going to blow the money on a top of the line CPU, you might as well go with the K. Also, right from a comparison website;
oconnomiyaki
Member
That's what I thought. I have no real interest in overclocking or anything like that, so the K doesn't sound like it's going to offer too much of an advantage. A lot of this comes down to stock availability. I can go down and get the 4770 right now, but the 4670K and 4770K are order-in stock. I'm impatient.
My current CPU is i5 750 @ 2.60GHz, for the record.
Awesome build! Excellent choice on the case and motherboard, that's some great taste you've got! I think the 750D hits a sweet spot in terms of aesthetics, ease of building and functionality. Here's mine:
I wish that I'd invested in a couple of fans for a push/pull setup. Ten years ago I never would have traded a custom loop for a sealed system, but these Corsair units are excellent. I'll go for a custom loop again when I'm digging for that last 5%, but I think my benching days are over.
Your cable management is superb. Great build all around.
I wish that I'd invested in a couple of fans for a push/pull setup. Ten years ago I never would have traded a custom loop for a sealed system, but these Corsair units are excellent. I'll go for a custom loop again when I'm digging for that last 5%, but I think my benching days are over.
Your cable management is superb. Great build all around.
I've had it up and running for some time now and my GPU arrived today, so with that I'm done with this one.
Excuse the shitty phone pictures.
I see that I missed a full shot of the radiator so here's a picture from when I was building.
Case: Corsair 750D
Motherboard: Asus Maximus VI Hero
Memory: Corsair 16GB 2133MHz Vengeance Pro
CPU: i5 4670k @ 4.5GHz
GPU: MSI GTX780ti @ 1179MHz / 7484MHz
PSU: Corsair AX750
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro 128GB / 6.5TB Western Digital
Keep it below 85 and you're fine, Haswell gets hot.
That rear fan has been a source of debate for years with top-mounted rads (check out XS or pro/cooling forum archives). I think the numbers show that, with enough CFM coming in from the front, there's enough to feed the radiator and to allow for a nice flow out the back.
Also, with some setups, I'd question the value of pulling in from that rear exhaust. For instance, my 780 Tis are exhausting quite a bit of warm air directly out the back. With ~8" to the wall from the back of the case, I'd be drawing that warm air back into the case with my rear fan flipped to an intake.
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