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Upscalers, CRTs, PVMs & RGB: Retro gaming done right!

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Chinner

Banned
Pvm seems to be in black and white... Any help?

Nevermind! Fixed!


Any idea how to get rid of 'RGB' in the bottom of the screen?n
 

elmalloc

Member
Yeah, I posted an image of what the UK modder did. If they don't want their work publicized like that, then they shouldn't do such a crap job. That is horrible.

So am I to guess it's only released in the UK? If you can email me a USA modder that is currently doing them, I would appreciate it. My USA modder will not do it in the current state. My Atomik Orange is not going to look like that, I'll just get a component cable.
 

Mega

Banned
That's a shame. Some of it goes over my head. I wish people with firmer grasp in technical speak than me would engage missles' posts.

Really wish I knew more myself and had deep knowledge but it's not practical with work, everyday life, etc. This stuff takes up enough time just keeping it at fun hobby level.

Lmfao. And that is why I mod stuff myself.

I may have asked this before, but what's a good kit for soldering work and what do you practice on to become proficient before moving on to risky mods?
 

Bancho

Member
I may have asked this before, but what's a good kit for soldering work and what do you practice on to become proficient before moving on to risky mods?

Practise that steady hand. That's the most important thing. Don't use a shovel tip to do intricate work and use flux. Try and be sober and not smashed while soldering.. although that might help some people hahahaha.
 
Yeah, I posted an image of what the UK modder did. If they don't want their work publicized like that, then they shouldn't do such a crap job. That is horrible.

So am I to guess it's only released in the UK? If you can email me a USA modder that is currently doing them, I would appreciate it. My USA modder will not do it in the current state. My Atomik Orange is not going to look like that, I'll just get a component cable.
Sorry, I'm based in the UK and that's the only one I'm aware of.
 

Peagles

Member
Lmfao. And that is why I mod stuff myself.

Same, at least if I did a horrible job like that nobody else would ever see it!
Even if you want to leave it open like that at least make it a nice and smooth and don't scratch it up. I would probably get a small black HDMI plate and set it into the system behind a clean cut rectangle. At least until I could get something 3D printed.

I may have asked this before, but what's a good kit for soldering work and what do you practice on to become proficient before moving on to risky mods?

I honestly just use a $20 soldering kit from our local electronics shop. I'm on my second kit but they've lasted years each. Just practice on stuff that's already broken if you're worried.
 
I did get a Hakko FX-888D eventually and it makes soldering all the more simple. You definitely don't need something so fancy to start off with though.
 

D.Lo

Member
My Plasma died last night.

I'll see if I can fix it, but if not I guess I have to start looking for a new TV.

Anyone have experience with modern Panasonics? Good for lag etc?
 
Bummer. There's TV thread here on GAF. I am not in the market for a new TV but I follow the thread and it seems there are no great new TVs out there right now. People don't think OLED is on par with what plasma used to offer.
 

Bancho

Member
My Plasma died last night.

I'll see if I can fix it, but if not I guess I have to start looking for a new TV.

Anyone have experience with modern Panasonics? Good for lag etc?

Look for parts on ebay mate? Bound to be some thing that you can use to repair.
 

Mega

Banned
I have the ST50. I don't recall... does it have a game mode and is it the same as manually turning off as much post processing as possible? I did a manual setup recommended on AVS forums. It still has noticeable motion blur and input lag.
 

Peagles

Member
It has a game mode. I don't think I've tried doing it manually to be honest. I find it pretty good lag-wise with newer consoles and the Framemeister.
 
Yeah, I posted an image of what the UK modder did. If they don't want their work publicized like that, then they shouldn't do such a crap job. That is horrible.

So am I to guess it's only released in the UK? If you can email me a USA modder that is currently doing them, I would appreciate it. My USA modder will not do it in the current state. My Atomik Orange is not going to look like that, I'll just get a component cable.

I don't know if this is allowed in here, but if you're interested I'm selling GC VGA cables in the BST thread (modded from the original Component cables) for a bit under what component cables are going for. You can get a VGA to component adapter for it, for just a few bucks off ebay.
 

SteHitch

Neo Member
Like Mega said, it won't be RGB only, the problem is it sounds like you're trying to plug composite into the RGB input.

On PVMs it's often just marked Line A/Line B instead of being labelled composite, if that helps.

Also hehe NOLA got the bug :p

Yeah thanks for that, you're right. It's a great looking display, can't wait to play some classics on it.
 

SteHitch

Neo Member
It's not a RGB-only display. If it's a standard PVM there should be input connectors for composite and S-video. Get your NES composite cable and connect it to the single connector (on input 1?) with a RCA-to-BNC adapter. There are cheap packs of those adapters on amazon and eBay.

Sorry for the late reply. Yeah, of course you're right - I have ordered the adapters and also an RGB Scart cable for the Mega Drive 1. Just in the process of decorating the room out so I am itching to take a proper look when it is all set up.
 
I just noticed a strange issue cropping up on my Genesis M1. The picture looks fine but it seems to "jump" and "shake" whenever you audio kicks in. I tried lowering the volume gauge, which does lessen the effect, but it still happens. None of my other consoles display the same effect. Could it be my SCART cable? This is on a PVM.
 

Timu

Member
I just noticed a strange issue cropping up on my Genesis M1. The picture looks fine but it seems to "jump" and "shake" whenever you audio kicks in. I tried lowering the volume gauge, which does lessen the effect, but it still happens. None of my other consoles display the same effect. Could it be my SCART cable? This is on a PVM.
Is it composite video as sync or c-sync?
 

Phatcorns

Member
Is this the right place to ask about Super Nintendo video capturing, and what's the best way to get a nice high quality image? I'm using an Elgato HD60 and composite, and while it works, it's FAR from anything I would call pretty.
 

dhonk

Member
Is this the right place to ask about Super Nintendo video capturing, and what's the best way to get a nice high quality image? I'm using an Elgato HD60 and composite, and while it works, it's FAR from anything I would call pretty.

*incoming overload*

SNES mini modded for RGB or one of the good 1chip models + XRGB mini Upscaler + Any decent HDMI capture card

Or, if all that is too big a barrier for entry you could wait for: http://www.hdretrovision.com/snes/

Barring that, S-Video. Hope this helped!
 

Timu

Member
Is this the right place to ask about Super Nintendo video capturing, and what's the best way to get a nice high quality image? I'm using an Elgato HD60 and composite, and while it works, it's FAR from anything I would call pretty.
If you want to go the RGB route, get a scart cable, Sync Strike and Startech PEXHDCAP.
 

Phatcorns

Member
That works too!

Thanks for the quick responses!

I actually have a scart cable and a component adapter that work with my CRT (and looks beautiful) but doesn't work with the Elgato, so I'm guessing the HD Retrovision won't work either. I'll do a bunch of research tomorrow in case these are just noob questions.

Thanks again!
 

Timu

Member
That works too!
It's the route I'm using since 2014 for youtube playthroughs.=p

Thanks for the quick responses!

I actually have a scart cable and a component adapter that work with my CRT (and looks beautiful) but doesn't work with the Elgato, so I'm guessing the HD Retrovision won't work either. I'll do a bunch of research tomorrow in case these are just noob questions.

Thanks again!
Most capture cards don't accept 240p over component. Only the Startech/Micomsoft cards do and for some odd reason the Roxio HD Pro, though it reads it as 480i and it sucks so don't bother with that.
 

Krelian

Member
So I have a (maybe) stupid question. Say I get my hands on a Cinemateq Picture Optimizer Plus II, that according to http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/ is a good alternative to the framemeister, at least for 240p signals:
With the Cinemateq's output set to linedoubling the resulting image is very close to what a XRGB can achieve (see the screenshot above).

It has Scart inputs, which makes it really easy to connect consoles to it. But it doesn't have audio routing. What would be the solution for audio? Would I need special RGB cables that split audio off and connect those to the TV directly? I'm kind of stumped how I would get audio with this thing.
 

Phatcorns

Member
It's the route I'm using since 2014 for youtube playthroughs.=p

Most capture cards don't accept 240p over component. Only the Startech/Micomsoft cards do and for some odd reason the Roxio HD Pro, though it reads it as 480i and it sucks so don't bother with that.

Awesome, thanks for the help! What's your YouTube channel so I can check out that RGB goodness
 
Has anyone tried using the firebrandx framemeister profiles on a 720p TV? He says theyre for 1080p.

Im in the mood to tinker with it today. Guess ill just take a shot and see how they look. If i can my microsd aka easiest thing in the world to lose.
 

TGMIII

Member
There's BVM near me that apparently only has 4K hours logged on it but they want £1000 for it.

Going to try and talk them down but I don't see it happening. I've dealt with them before and they always have their stuff listed for way over the usual asking price.
 

Peltz

Member
There's BVM near me that apparently only has 4K hours logged on it but they want £1000 for it.

Going to try and talk them down but I don't see it happening. I've dealt with them before and they always have their stuff listed for way over the usual asking price.

Not worth it. They're crazy to ask that price in today's market.
 

TGMIII

Member
Oh trust me I know that but I don't think I'm going to get them to go lower sadly and I'm obviously not willing to pay that much.

I asked them if they're willing to take offers and they asked what I was willing to pay. Not really sure what to say since I'm sure any offer will be turned down.

Would love to have it but it'll probably just sit there untouched like the majority of the equipment they have in. Pretty sure they source this stuff from local production studios for super cheap and then try to resell at a huge markup.
 

Mega

Banned
Oh trust me I know that but I don't think I'm going to get them to go lower sadly and I'm obviously not willing to pay that much.

I asked them if they're willing to take offers and they asked what I was willing to pay. Not really sure what to say since I'm sure any offer will be turned down.

Would love to have it but it'll probably just sit there untouched like the majority of the equipment they have in. Pretty sure they source this stuff from local production studios for super cheap and then try to resell at a huge markup.

Gah, that sucks. They will probably keep it forever with no buyers, then junk it! Anyway I paid $265 for my BVM with 8k hours and before that $150 for a lower end BVM with 70k hours. I've seen them sell for significantly more than that but I think it's not worth it regardless of the pro monitor price increases in recent times. You can be patient and easily find better deals than 1000 pounds/usd, or search out cheaper alternatives that are just as good.
 

missile

Member
I've been working a lot with the K7000 in my Neo Geo cabinet. I was curious what the flybacks looked like in the PVM/BVM and found this link:

http://filthypants.blogspot.com/2015/03/how-to-adjust-focus-on-sony-pvm-monitor.html ...
Seems like someone had a similar idea as I had, even doing it on a PVM.
You are right, the focsing pot is very exposed, good position, ideal to do
adjustments. BVM will be similar than, I guess.

... Looks like they moved the focus pot on this PVM which is cool. A bit safer to adjust that way. On my K7000 I actually use plastic TV adjustment tools when messing around with any pots. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005M6BY2A/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Yeah right, much better that way!
 

Danny Dudekisser

I paid good money for this Dynex!
I wish Micomsoft would hurry up and announce a new XRGB. My XRGB-3 is toast, and I don't want the Framemeister because of the switching issues. But that's my only real option at this point.

Can't a motherfucker just get RGB SCART without any annoyances?
 

TGMIII

Member
Gah, that sucks. They will probably keep it forever with no buyers, then junk it! Anyway I paid $265 for my BVM with 8k hours and before that $150 for a lower end BVM with 70k hours. I've seen them sell for significantly more than that but I think it's not worth it regardless of the pro monitor price increases in recent times. You can be patient and easily find better deals than 1000 pounds/usd, or search out cheaper alternatives that are just as good.

So I gave them an offer and they shut me down, as expected.

It's not going anywhere so I'll check back in a few months and see if they're ready to take my offer again. They have 14" PVMs listed for £150-200 which have been there for months and their ebay pages never get bids so I'm sure I'll get another try at it again.
 

Mega

Banned
So I gave them an offer and they shut me down, as expected.

It's not going anywhere so I'll check back in a few months and see if they're ready to take my offer again. They have 14" PVMs listed for £150-200 which have been there for months and their ebay pages never get bids so I'm sure I'll get another try at it again.

These guys are obviously interested in waiting out long term for desperate suckers. I would forget about them and find someone else willing to negotiate and sell at a reasonable price.
 
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