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[Beer Monkey]

I don't currently have WiiU component cables to try it out. Like I said, I can only speak for results of WiiU HDMI digital RGB output. Specifically fed into my Viera ST60, which features artifact free upscaling that is imediately apparent to be better that WiiU and framemeister upscaling.

The filtering you notice is probably limited to analogue output as HDMI appears crystal clear. In fact, on the WiiU dashboard I often forget when I'm in 480p instead of 1080p.

Also, are the 240p test patters you're using actually 480p or just 240p?

480p, of course. The 240p test suite has the ability to output 480p and 480i, even 576i.

Here's a snap.

Scaling artifacts on a checkerboard pattern. The CRT display does not scale. The Wii U is doing it. FYI you can easily install the RGB test suite in a softmodded vWii.

 

[Mega]

This is probably of interest to very few of you, but in experimenting with the Wii U component output on my broadcast monitor it has become very apparent that there is some kind of filtering/scaling that always occurs, particularly in Wii mode (where I can use the 240p suite test patterns). I verified that this happens in all different screen size settings (this is in the Wii U control panel display options).

It is of course well established that there is no way to get 240p out from the Wii U component output but I'm now also convinced that the 480i/p image is also compromised by processing of the Wii U video implementation.

I'd witnessed this prior but had assumed that my set was doing a worse job of 480i/p upscaling than I recalled. I also am now confident that this is why I was unable to get satisfactory results using the Wii U 480p with a Framemeister a while back (which turned out to be irrelevant as I can't tolerate the 2 frame lag of the Framemeister when it gets combined with the four-frame minimum lag of my plasma).

I'm recommending playing Wii games on the Wii U only if you are letting Wii U scale them to HD.

Interesting. I was thinking of getting a Wii U component cable and hooking it up to my 1710CG for 480p and 720p gaming but your results paint it to be a disappointment. My main interest was Wii U games as I've already got Wii Component and GC Component. It's unfortunate. I wanted to run around motion blur-free in the overworld of Xenoblade Chronicles X.

At any rate your experiment seems like it only accounts for analog output, which is a different story for 480p via HDMI. I also don't fully recommend WiiU upscaling to 1080p if you have a monitor or device that is highly capable of upscaling itself. However it may be a toss up between WiiU and framemeister upscaling. Then again, I can only speak for results from HDMI output.

This is a good point. The monitor that Beer and I have has no way of taking HDMI, but I have a HDFury HDMI to Component converter which is quite good in my tests with N64 HDMI... except I can't get 480p to work so I just run the N64 at 720p. Maybe I'll give HDMI to Component a try and give my results.

I too have a Viera (ST50)... Wii U looks good on it except for that damn motion blur.

 

[Beer Monkey]

Interesting. I was thinking of getting a Wii U component cable and hooking it up to my 1710CG for 480p and 720p gaming but your results paint it to be a disappointment. My main interest was Wii U games as I've already got Wii Component and GC Component. It's unfortunate. I wanted to run around motion blur-free in the overworld of Xenoblade Chronicles X.

Honestly, I'd never notice it in a 3D game (I did notice averaged lines in Wii U VC games). And also honestly, the Wii U in 720p on the 1710 looks really great (though you'd want to mask off some blanking garbage - I do not have the original mask). I played some Runner2 last night in 720p and it was lovely, though the lack of latency kept throwing me off!

 

[Mega]

One of mine fortunately came with the 16:9 bezel. You can screw it in but it's easy to just pop it in and stays in place.

 

[davidwhangchoi]

One of mine fortunately came with the 16:9 bezel. You can screw it in but it's easy to just pop it in and stays in place.

Hey Mega, i got the snes scart cable in the mail that you helped me choose. thank you!

i'm just using my non 1chip temp until i get a soldering iron to mod the snes mini .
i'll post up pics of modding once i get a chance to grab the DIY amp.

 

[Borman]

Are there any good SCART-compatible splitters (with sound)? I want to take one to go to my capture card, and one to a BVM. I could use the passthrough on the capture card (or via the output on the monitor I guess), but I was just thinking for convenience. And Im not sure how the capture card would output it, since it needs the sync stripper. A bit of a headache really hah

 

[Peltz]

Are there any good SCART-compatible splitters (with sound)? I want to take one to go to my capture card, and one to a BVM. I could use the passthrough on the capture card (or via the output on the monitor I guess), but I was just thinking for convenience. And Im not sure how the capture card would output it, since it needs the sync stripper. A bit of a headache really hah

I'd output from the BVM and forget splitting the signal.

Splitters can cause interference. BVM output will be 100% perfect and lag free. There's really no reason to split it.

 

[Beer Monkey]

This is a good point. The monitor that Beer and I have has no way of taking HDMI, but I have a HDFury HDMI to Component converter which is quite good in my tests with N64 HDMI... except I can't get 480p to work so I just run the N64 at 720p.

That's kind of interesting. I have a (cheapass) HDMI to VGA adapter and just out of curiosity sake I tried hooking up my PSTV up to the JVC with it (using a VGA to RGBHV cable). It wouldn't sync at 480p, but would sync up perfectly at 720p...

 

[entremet]

Probably preaching to choir, but Retronauts just did an episode on playing classic games today--they went over CRTs, RGB, etc.

 

[Madao]

the HDMI N64 is in da house. i actually got it on saturday but it's only now that i'm having time to post here about it. tinkeing with it and playing games sure made time fly.

i did some preliminary screenshot comparisons between the various modes the HDMI circuitry is capable of doing. you can combine several options in various ways but others don't stack. i'll mention which on the way.

the example game i used is F-Zero X + Expansion Kit. i just love this game and it's the main reason i even considered investing in the mod because any other game i have had a VC re-release or a remaster or was a game i didn't care too much about. also, FZX is good because it has the minimap which tells you how 2D things are handled in addition of the game's graphics showing the 3D side.

all captures were in 1080p output using the PEXHDCAP60L i got 2 months ago so it's among top quality captures (hopefully i didn't mess up a setting somewhere).

VI De-Blur + Sharp Pixels: mode Integer

this seems to be the optimal sharp pixels mode since things don't look too big and looks pretty nice on TV.

VI De-Blur + Sharp Pixels: mode Integer+

this one enlarges the image quite a bit. it cuts off part of the picture for most games but FZX has some black bars native to it so there's no actual graphics cut in this case.

VI De-Blur with Sharp Pixels off

this is what you get if you don't use Sharp Pixels mode but have De-Blur active. it looks closer to how RGB looks.

Sharp Pixels: mode Integer with VI De-Blur off

there's some sharpness here but not as much when you have de-blur active.

Sharp Pixels: mode Integer+ with VI De-Blur off

this combo came off pretty bad. not recommended.

VI De-Blur off and Sharp Pixels off

no enhancements active outside scaling to 1080p.

VI De-Blur + Scan Lines Hybrid mode

here's some scan lines. scan lines can't be enabled in Sharp Pixels mode.

VI De-Blur + Scan Lines Simple mode

these scan lines have an additional setting where you can make them thicker. i only captured the thinnest setting. i didn't test them much because i don't use them normally.

the HDMI N64 is also capable of a direct mode that outputs 640x480. the screenshots of that mode are in the same resolution.

Direct Mode + VI De-Blur

this is probably the big selling point for people who want low latency on modern HD displays. all processing is turned off except for De-Blur (which can be toggled) and the output image is 640x480.

Direct Mode with VI De-Blur off

this is probably the closest to the original signal but converted to HDMI. no processing at all here. it's still ahead of RGB imo.

i wonder if the HDMI N64 deserves its own thread. i noticed the HDMI NES has one but also the N64 is much less popular so i dunno if there would be enough people to discuss (especially at this point since very few people have these currently)

 

[PumpkinSpice]

TBH I kinda feel like HDMI mods might need their own thread in general.

 

[Madao]

later i'll get some shots against my RGB N64 and i'm also in the process of making some videos.

in all, my FM lost half of the reasons i use it for. i won't sell it right away but i'll see how things pan out in the next few months. i might sell it to fund the OSSC but it's better to wait until people have that widely and a consensus is in place.

 

[televator]

the HDMI N64 is in da house. i actually got it on saturday but it's only now that i'm having time to post here about it. tinkeing with it and playing games sure made time fly.

i did some preliminary screenshot comparisons between the various modes the HDMI circuitry is capable of doing. you can combine several options in various ways but others don't stack. i'll mention which on the way.

the example game i used is F-Zero X + Expansion Kit. i just love this game and it's the main reason i even considered investing in the mod because any other game i have had a VC re-release or a remaster or was a game i didn't care too much about. also, FZX is good because it has the minimap which tells you how 2D things are handled in addition of the game's graphics showing the 3D side.

all captures were in 1080p output using the PEXHDCAP60L i got 2 months ago so it's among top quality captures (hopefully i didn't mess up a setting somewhere).




the HDMI N64 is also capable of a direct mode that outputs 640x480. the screenshots of that mode are in the same resolution.



i wonder if the HDMI N64 deserves its own thread. i noticed the HDMI NES has one but also the N64 is much less popular so i dunno if there would be enough people to discuss (especially at this point since very few people have these currently)

Can it add scanlines in "direct mode"? Rather, is "direct mode" the only way to get 480p?

The HDMI NES is more specifically about the Analogue NT, which is a completely repackaged system. It wouldn't hurt to have a thread that brings attention to all HDMI system mods though.

 

[Mega]

That's kind of interesting. I have a (cheapass) HDMI to VGA adapter and just out of curiosity sake I tried hooking up my PSTV up to the JVC with it (using a VGA to RGBHV cable). It wouldn't sync at 480p, but would sync up perfectly at 720p...

You think the problem is the JVC's RGB/Component video card? I have two cheap HDMI to Component converters. One is passthrough and shows 480p with intermittent jitter.

The other has scaling and can output the most resolutions, including 480i and 1080i... unfortunately it tries to make the picture widescreen. And relevant to your post, no combination of the HDMI N64's resolution settings + the converter's res settings can get 480p to display.

The HDFury Gamer 2 has passthrough but it won't show 480p (disappointing). The cheap converter can but with the previously mentioned distortion.

I've also noticed top of the screen distortion with Groovy MAME PC + the JVC (VGA to RGBHV Scart). No issues running the same setup on a BVM.

 

[Beer Monkey]

You think the problem is the JVC's RGB/Component video card? I have two cheap HDMI to Component converters. One is passthrough and shows 480p with intermittent jitter. .

Beats me. I've had good luck with 480p over component from Wii U and PSP Go. Odd that we've both had problems with 480p over RGB with external sync, though. I assumed something was out of spec with the timings on my cheap converter.

 

[Trojita]

I'm at sort of a conundrum. I love the look of these RGB monitors and the goal of playing as authentic as possible. I have a tiny apartment and don't have a lot of room. I'd ideally have a NEC XM-29 and a dedicated setup to play on, but finding that monitor seems really hard right now and while I think I might be able to make room, it might be a little hard lol.

I don't know whether I should try and pursue original hard way or be fine with a dedicated emu device (I own every single system that would be emu'd and have all the games that would be played in storage).

If I got a RGB Monitor.

I'd need to get (and I'm sure everyone here has run into this problem)

A NES that is modded for RGB or a hdmi nes that actually works maybe sometime in the future

Find a SNES that can be converted for SCART (preferably a specific kind of 2nd gen one I heard).

A Genesis capable of RGB (haven't even looked into this).

SCART Cables and potentially a SCART switcher.

+ Flash Drives that will allow me to play my dumped games + translated versions of my JP games + mod hacks. I've seen the prices for these and wow they are expensive lol.

Gamecube GBA Player + Modchipped Gamecube so I can play Gameboy Advance Games on TV at the best quality (I still have to lookup the best connections for this and am honestly wondering if it would be worth it on CRT/PVM vs. LCD/Plasma vs. the GBA/GBA Clones)

or alternatively do everything on the above except get a XRGB Mini, get all of the consoles + Flashcarts above and use them on my 65" plasma.

or just make a dedicated emulator machine and forgo most of the expensive nature of the hobby. Hoping to find some kind of look or filter that will make me enjoy the games the most.

Also are there any games that are not advised to be played emulated? I know Mother 3 on GBA is referenced as one recommended to be played on original hardware because the one type of battle system requires rhythm based commands that don't work well at all emulated (from what I heard). I know a lot of people here don't like the messed up timings in emulated games in general.

On top of that I have a 65" Panasonic VT60 Plasma TV that gets image retention easily. It can appear at first as burn in especially if it's due to long watches of something with a static image. It will go away eventually. I marathoned the whole Gumball show and the CN symbol was stuck on the screen forever.

 

[davidwhangchoi]

On top of that I have a 65" Panasonic VT60 Plasma TV that gets image retention easily. It can appear at first as burn in especially if it's due to long watches of something with a static image. It will go away eventually. I marathoned the whole Gumball show and the CN symbol was stuck on the screen forever.

on the last point, i owned several generations of panny plasma (nice tv btw, congrats) and currently own a kuro 60" 151fd.

if you go the emulated direction, wouldn't worry about image retention. panny's are really sensitive to them compared to other tvs but never are they permanent. i've had a 58 " panny that was a store display model playing for 2 years straight on torch mode in letter box format movies 12 hours a day. i got it for 300, image retention went away after 2 months completely.

 

[Trojita]

on the last point, i owned several generations of panny plasma (nice tv btw, congrats) and currently own a kuro 60" 151fd.

if you go the emulated direction, wouldn't worry about image retention. panny's are really sensitive to them compared to other tvs but never are they permanent. i've had a 58 " panny that was a store display model playing for 2 years straight on torch mode in letter box format movies 12 hours a day. i got it for 300, image retention went away after 2 months completely.

My 5020fd broke during a move ;_;

 

[davidwhangchoi]

My 5020fd broke during a move ;_;

aargh, that stinks

wow! you have some hi end tv's (current and former)

since you owned a pioneer, you know first hand they are not as sensitive as pannys.

when i had my first panny i was scared to death and always ran breakin slides after watching a letter boxed show. but after getting that displayed set from Sears, that broke any hesitation re: static images. but regardless, if you're going rgb CRT, that'll be an awesome grab... just don't be afraid of using the VT if that's the only option to retrogame in your apt.

 

[Peltz]

My panny plasma died way before image retention due to 4:3 gaming became an issue. Don't be adraid of burn in.

Your set isn't going to last forever anyway.

 

[televator]

My Panny PZ800U was very resistant to burn in and image retention. Never had an issue with it. My ST60 though... It's hyper sensitive. Image retention is a big issue, though no permanent burn has resulted. I've had a couple of instances that could take months to clear up. Static HUDs in games for hours without screen swipes are a big non-no.

 

[PumpkinSpice]

A full setup is kind of tedious to get perfect but there are good ways to do it bit by bit that aren't so bad.

or just make a dedicated emulator machine and forgo most of the expensive nature of the hobby. Hoping to find some kind of look or filter that will make me enjoy the games the most.

For example you could kinda do this and just start with a Wii at 240p on a CRT or Framemeister, or even just run 480p direct to your TV. An original SNES and Genesis do RGB out of the box so if you go the CRT or FM route you just need a cable. The flash carts are pricey but it's really worth running on real hardware so just pick your favorite system and start with that.

You can also just make some basic compromises that aren't so bad. Run your N64 on s-video instead of RGB modding. Use the same s-video cable on GC (for GBP, save on $$$$ component cables) and SNES. Play GC games on a backwards compatible Wii over component.

Edit: Also worth pointing out that consumer CRTs like Trinitrons are great and you don't necessarily need the holy grail monitor.

 

[Mega]

Beats me. I've had good luck with 480p over component from Wii U and PSP Go. Odd that we've both had problems with 480p over RGB with external sync, though. I assumed something was out of spec with the timings on my cheap converter.

Component with the N64 and RGB with the PC. Maybe it's picky about the precise scanning frequency being output by the device connected to the monitor...?

I'm looking at a more advanced, newer HDFury converter. I really just want a clean 4:3, 480p picture out of the N64. Unlike 720p, 480p covers the full screen of the 1710CG and it had these very subtle scanlines that gave the image a pleasant quality. The cheapo passthrough converter would have been perfect for this if the image didn't shake.

 

[davidwhangchoi]

The cheapo passthrough converter would have been perfect for this if the image didn't shake.

does your image shake like this?

that's how mine looks playing ff12 w/o the flicker reduction filter =D

 

[Borman]

I'd output from the BVM and forget splitting the signal.

Splitters can cause interference. BVM output will be 100% perfect and lag free. There's really no reason to split it.

It's probably cheaper that way too

 

[RadarScope1]

I went through much of the same arguments in my own head, Trojita. I will say some of what you are describing as hard to get isn't - for example, all Genesis and SNES consoles can do RGB (well except SNES mini), so you only need some cables.

Ultimately I have opted for a monitor setup in my basement. I am hoping to be close enough to finished to post pics soon.

EDIT: SheepGuy's post above is a good one. Take it in stages and don't think it ALL has to be RGB at first, if ever. Just enjoy the games, man.

 

[EricTheRed]

Sorry if this is the wrong thread to be asking this in but what is the best way to hook a Dreamcast upto a HDTV (as I'm looking to get back into collecting for this system)? A CRT tv is not an option at the moment. I've seen VGA boxes for sale on eBay and my tv has a VGA port, is that the way I should be going?

 

[Mega]

does your image shake like this?

that's how mine looks playing ff12 w/o the flicker reduction filter =D

LOL

Yes, but not so bad. It's more noticeable at bootup and when a game is paused. I don't see it much when I'm playing. I think the monitor is bitchy about having a good sync signal.

 

[davidwhangchoi]

LOL

Yes, but not so bad. It's more noticeable at bootup and when a game is paused. I don't see it much when I'm playing. I think the monitor is bitchy about having a good sync signal.

lol jk,
btw mega, i found a way to get straighter geometry on the BVM for the upper right corner.
i discovered that if i put the TV into underscan 4:3 to 80% settings. then redid the alignment it's much much much straighter on the sides.

i hope i'm not messing anything up by doing that but i was able to rotate it properly too without any green tint showing up. been gaming a lot between snes and genesis the last few nights and it's been great =)

 

[BocoDragon]

I notice the image on my PVM 2530 seems to be a bit tilted.

Can I expect that there is a pot inside the machine that can adjust that?

 

[Mega]

lol jk,
btw mega, i found a way to get straighter geometry on the BVM for the upper right corner.
i discovered that if i put the TV into underscan 4:3 to 80% settings. then redid the alignment it's much much much straighter on the sides.

i hope i'm not messing anything up by doing that but i was able to rotate it properly too without any green tint showing up. been gaming a lot between snes and genesis the last few nights and it's been great =)

That's cool, although I dunno if that could have some unintended side effect (extra wear). But I doubt it would do anything bad. Some PVMs have an underscan button right there on the front for one to use as much as needed.

Since I can't run 480p on the HDMI N64 using the good converter, I do 720p with max H/V size in menu settings and medium overscan on the N64's menu settings. It takes up about 80% of the screen.

 

[Peagles]

Advice from the capture card crew? Should I get the Elgato HD60 or the Startech USB 3.0 one? I'll likely use it for all current consoles and older stuff through the Framemeister.

 

[Timu]

Advice from the capture card crew? Should I get the Elgato HD60 or the Startech USB 3.0 one? I'll likely use it for all current consoles and older stuff through the Framemeister.

Startech USB 3.0 hands down as it supports more connections.

 

[Khaz]

I'm at sort of a conundrum. I love the look of these RGB monitors and the goal of playing as authentic as possible. I have a tiny apartment and don't have a lot of room. I'd ideally have a NEC XM-29 and a dedicated setup to play on, but finding that monitor seems really hard right now and while I think I might be able to make room, it might be a little hard lol.

I don't know whether I should try and pursue original hard way or be fine with a dedicated emu device (I own every single system that would be emu'd and have all the games that would be played in storage).

I wouldn't worry about the end goal. Trying to plan for everything will just be overwhelming and prevent you from doing anything. Baby steps. You already have the consoles and the games, you will be able to play them if you get a CRT, even if they don't do RGB. Hey, they were made to be played on a CRT I would suggest you to look for a nice consumer SD TV with Component. Even though it's not the holy pro CRT grail, they are still mighty fine. And as they are dirt cheap, you can just hold to one until you find your dream pro CRT. You can use your consoles with Composite and slowly ease into RGB one console after the other, many consoles output RGB out of the box so you just need the right cable.

Y (green) - This output is available on all commonly used models of the system.
Y (yellow) - This output is available only on certain versions of the system.
NTSC - This output is available only on NTSC (US/JP) consoles.
PAL - This output is available only on PAL (EU/AU) consoles.
N - This output is not available on the system unless you mod it (or find an obscure specialty version that supports it).

Genesis and SNES are a bit misleading with the RGB: It's true only certain models do RGB, but the models that don't are late revisions that are certainly not the most common (Genesis3 and SNES Mini)

 

[InfiniteNine]

retro_console_accessories ebay store seems to be down atm. Is she busy again?

Startech USB 3.0 hands down as it supports more connections.

Also found out it's the only way I'll be able to capture DOS games from my old laptop so it makes me choosing it for my next card very good!

 

[Madao]

Can it add scanlines in "direct mode"? Rather, is "direct mode" the only way to get 480p?

The HDMI NES is more specifically about the Analogue NT, which is a completely repackaged system. It wouldn't hurt to have a thread that brings attention to all HDMI system mods though.

you can get 480p in the other modes too since the device lets you output in various resolutions and Hz. scan lines should work there.

Spoiler

i actually forgot that when doing the capture.

Sharp Pixels is unavailable in 480p though.

 

[Beer Monkey]

retro_console_accessories ebay store seems to be down atm. Is she busy again?

Log in on a Monday morning after 6am. This is when she lists new inventory. It goes fast. Especially the SNES CSYNC cables.

I managed to get one ordered from her this Monday, she listed three this week.

 

[Trojita]

aargh, that stinks

wow! you have some hi end tv's (current and former)

since you owned a pioneer, you know first hand they are not as sensitive as pannys.

when i had my first panny i was scared to death and always ran breakin slides after watching a letter boxed show. but after getting that displayed set from Sears, that broke any hesitation re: static images. but regardless, if you're going rgb CRT, that'll be an awesome grab... just don't be afraid of using the VT if that's the only option to retrogame in your apt.

Yeah the Kuro was really resistant. Only thing I ever noticed was initially for just a couple of seconds IR would appear and then disappear. The orbiting software though a lot of people turned it off was really good to minimize problems as well. Only problem I had with my Kuro was I had the Dirty Screen Effect which may or may not have had a fix that I didn't find out because the thing broke during the move.

A full setup is kind of tedious to get perfect but there are good ways to do it bit by bit that aren't so bad.



For example you could kinda do this and just start with a Wii at 240p on a CRT or Framemeister, or even just run 480p direct to your TV. An original SNES and Genesis do RGB out of the box so if you go the CRT or FM route you just need a cable. The flash carts are pricey but it's really worth running on real hardware so just pick your favorite system and start with that.

You can also just make some basic compromises that aren't so bad. Run your N64 on s-video instead of RGB modding. Use the same s-video cable on GC (for GBP, save on $$$$ component cables) and SNES. Play GC games on a backwards compatible Wii over component.

Edit: Also worth pointing out that consumer CRTs like Trinitrons are great and you don't necessarily need the holy grail monitor.

I have two Sony Trinitron's in my room at my parent's house but right now using them in my apartment or just transporting them would be a BIG pain in the ass.

The CRT's are a Sony KV-32FS32 32 inch Trinitron SD CRT capable of 480p and a Sony XBR960 HD CRT. Man I loved these high quality Sony sets back in the day which blew my mind to know there was RGB monitors that could be even better lol. Thought I had the best you could get with these two things.

My Panny PZ800U was very resistant to burn in and image retention. Never had an issue with it. My ST60 though... It's hyper sensitive. Image retention is a big issue, though no permanent burn has resulted. I've had a couple of instances that could take months to clear up. Static HUDs in games for hours without screen swipes are a big non-no.

Yeah the ST60 is the brother to the VT60 I have. The thing even gets initial image retention of things that are on the tv at startup lol.

My panny plasma died way before image retention due to 4:3 gaming became an issue. Don't be adraid of burn in.

Your set isn't going to last forever anyway.

I'll keep this in mind.

 

[televator]

Yeah the ST60 is the brother to the VT60 I have. The thing even gets initial image retention of things that are on the tv at startup lol.

That's exactly how it is unfortunately. For a few minutes you can see the "No signal available... " retained on screen unless you run the black/white scroll bar for a minute before viewing anything. Like warming up a car. lol

 

[TeaJay]

I'm also looking to capture/livestream from my RGB consoles but haven't found the best solution yet. Others just use the Elgato on composite. Is the micomsoft capture card the best solution? I'd want to play on my PVM while streaming.

 

[Trojita]

That's exactly how it is unfortunately. For a few minutes you can see the "No signal available... " retained on screen unless you run the black/white scroll bar for a minute before viewing anything. Like warming up a car. lol

Yeah lol. I use a Mac Mini as a HTPC and when I see the icons on the TV while watching something I'm like "Fuck did I leave my TV on my desktop too long or was this because I started up the TV on that screen".

 

[Timu]

I'm also looking to capture/livestream from my RGB consoles but haven't found the best solution yet. Others just use the Elgato on composite. Is the micomsoft capture card the best solution? I'd want to play on my PVM while streaming.

Fuck yes it is!!! I capture RGB with it since 2014!!!

 

[TeaJay]

Fuck yes it is!!! I capture RGB with it since 2014!!!

Can you do a quick rundown of your setup and the cable/connections you're using?

 

[Mega]

you can get 480p in the other modes too since the device lets you output in various resolutions and Hz. scan lines should work there.

Spoiler

i actually forgot that when doing the capture.

Sharp Pixels is unavailable in 480p though.

That doesn't seem right. I have de-blur and sharp pixels enabled when I use any res. I can see the difference as I toggle each option on/off. edit: nvm, 480p is sharp by default since it's not being upscaled.

But you can't use scanlines with sharp pixels.

 

[socksfelloff]

I notice the image on my PVM 2530 seems to be a bit tilted.

Can I expect that there is a pot inside the machine that can adjust that?

Mine is as well. I adjusted the vtilt all the way the opposite way and it helped but it's still not perfect. I increased the vertical size a tad so I don't see it anymore.

 

[nateify]

I'm also looking to capture/livestream from my RGB consoles but haven't found the best solution yet. Others just use the Elgato on composite. Is the micomsoft capture card the best solution? I'd want to play on my PVM while streaming.

Also, the USB3HDCAP (~$200 on Amazon US) can capture 240p RGB from a SCART connection but it's a little complicated, you'll need a Sync Strike to convert RGBs to RGBHV, which will be VGA, as the DVI portion of the card takes VGA in with an included adapter.

No passthrough, though.

 

[Timu]

Can you do a quick rundown of your setup and the cable/connections you're using?

Sync Strike to capture RGB, a Inline 1402 to deinterlace and capture 480i games in 60 FPS, and my card is a Startech PEXHDCAP(which equals to Micomsoft SC-500N1 as both Micomsoft and Startech have the same exact cards)which captures RGB, Component, VGA, HDMI, and composite and svideo with an upscaler.

 

[NormalFish]

Anyone tried to fix the aspect ratio of a sgb with the mini zoom settings?

 

[PumpkinSpice]

Anyone tried to fix the aspect ratio of a sgb with the mini zoom settings?

Yeah I did, it helps to do some measurements of the output on your TV to see if the aspect ratio is right, but the result looks pretty good -- I didn't notice any pixels at warped dimensions at least.

 

[Kawika]

later i'll get some shots against my RGB N64 and i'm also in the process of making some videos.

in all, my FM lost half of the reasons i use it for. i won't sell it right away but i'll see how things pan out in the next few months. i might sell it to fund the OSSC but it's better to wait until people have that widely and a consensus is in place.

I have an analogue NT with the HDMI mod and I am still thinking about getting a AV Famicom for RGB stuff. Sometimes I really want to play on my CRT and that's a bummer for my NT.

Anyway, where did you get the mod and how much did you pay? I tried contacting the makers of the kit but they wouldn't sell it to me (even though I am more than capable of doing the mod myself) due tot he fact I wasn't associated with any retro store or mod shop online.