KS8000 settings for gaming at 4k/HDR

FarFromAnyGame said:
It will. I'll make a video showing it when I have time.



Yeah, that's my observation. If you set it to Auto on the TV and forget about it, it will work properly. But if you try to change it, it will be Auto = Low (TV black level) until you turn the PS4 off and on again.
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SilverArrow20XX said:
Yup. This is how it is for me too. When I change to Full it autos to Normal, until I touch it, then Auto becomes Low. So there's part of the puzzle. 1152 didn't fix it. Wonder if it's on Samsung's or Sony's side.
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Ok, so from a cold boot it should be full RGB in this case when set to auto if I am understanding correctly.

This is how it works on the Sony Bravia line, minus the need for a cold boot, auto can be switched back and forth without it 'sticking' to limited for non-HDR games.
 
Opening a small can of gummy worms on the side here to say I like using HDR+ special viewing mode on non-film based 4K YouTube type videos. Been watching some 4K cosplay videos with my special settings and getting a real eye-blast (feel the burn)! Here's my special HDR+ 4K-YouTube settings if you want to give it a try. BTW, I just download them and watch from thumbdrive.
Special Viewing Mode:HDR+ - Backlight:20 - Brightness:45 - Contrast:100 - Sharpness:0 - Color:50 - Digital Clean View:Off - Auto Motion Plus:Off - Smart LED:High - Dynamic Contrast:Low - Color Tone:Warm1 - Color Space:Native
 
III-V said:
Ok, so from a cold boot it should be full RGB in this case when set to auto if I am understanding correctly.

This is how it works on the Sony Bravia line, minus the need for a cold boot, auto can be switched back and forth without it 'sticking' to limited for non-HDR games.
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I set RGB Range to Auto. Completely turned off the system. Unplugged everything. Waited a few minutes. Booted. Still autoed to RGB - Limited.
 
Been dicking around with the settings (on firmware 1152). Only issue is My PS4 pro makes the tv flicker black like crazy on hdr and non hdr games (ESPECIALLY Paladins). Is it the cable or is it something more sinister? Also on Pc should I be using uhd full color with RGB on nvidia settings, or ycbcr444?
 
WonkyPanda said:
Went to the AVS thread and saw this:


Seems like the DC fight continues...
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Despite a lot of these sites acting like they are gurus, they are just humans writing articles with personal preferences. You can probably get away with turning on Dynamic Contrast on low but it's still enhancing the image in an unnatural way and saturating the image.

It might brighten the image but you are losing detail.
 
AngelOFDeath said:
Funny my test showed the opposite of what you said, auto to full, TV HBL auto to normal did zero change making me believe auto/auto is full/normal.
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This is what I expect as well.

SilverArrow20XX said:
I set RGB Range to Auto. Completely turned off the system. Unplugged everything. Waited a few minutes. Booted. Still autoed to RGB - Limited.
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I take it the PS4 was set to auto on each video setting on this test? No froced settings, correct?
 
FarFromAnyGame said:
It will. I'll make a video showing it when I have time.



Yeah, that's my observation. If you set it to Auto on the TV and forget about it, it will work properly. But if you try to change it, it will be Auto = Low (TV black level) until you turn the PS4 off and on again.
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Is the conclusion, then, that it takes a cold boot (a fresh "source") for the TV's Auto to properly recognize what's it receiving? Only then does Auto actually align with the source?

I guess that's one answer (and means that cruddy design caused confusion for like 2 whole pages here), but if I were to switch to a movie or TV show on the PS4? Blech.
 
KyleOnTheRun said:
Is the conclusion, then, that it takes a cold boot (a fresh "source") for the TV's Auto to properly recognize what's it receiving? Only then does Auto actually align with the source?

I guess that's one answer (and means that cruddy design caused confusion for like 2 whole pages here), but if I were to switch to a movie or TV show on the PS4? Blech.
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And what happens when you switch to an app, like YouTube and back? This is miserable.
 
FarFromAnyGame said:
Yeah, that's my observation. If you set it to Auto on the TV and forget about it, it will work properly. But if you try to change it, it will be Auto = Low (TV black level) until you turn the PS4 off and on again.
Click to expand...

SilverArrow20XX said:
Yup. This is how it is for me too. When I change to Full it autos to Normal, until I touch it, then Auto becomes Low. So there's part of the puzzle. 1152 didn't fix it. Wonder if it's on Samsung's or Sony's side.
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Noticed this yesterday as well. I didn't post about it because I thought I was seeing things, lol.

I left it on Full and Normal to play it safe.
 
TLZ said:
Noticed this yesterday as well. I didn't post about it because I thought I was seeing things, lol.

I left it on Full and Normal to play it safe.
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I'll be the fourth to say, yeah, this is exactly what I was seeing. If I even touch the black level setting, in any source conditions, Auto becomes Low. But left in Auto, if the PS4 boots up with RGB Full, Auto is fine as long as I don't touch it.

I guess my only question, what's the difference when you're viewing content that was originally formatted as 16-235 -- like movies and shows -- in a 0-255 "Full" output? If there's no discernible difference, then I think I'll leave PS4 set to Full and TV on Auto.
 
KyleOnTheRun said:
I guess my only question, what's the difference when you're viewing content that was originally formatted as 16-235 -- like movies and shows -- in a 0-255 "Full" output? If there's no discernible difference, then I think I'll leave PS4 set to Full and TV on Auto.
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Booting up the media player should result in a YUV output, which should be limited by default. The Samsung should then snap to limited, but what will happen when you go back to the UI? At this point I am not sure due to this bug.
 
Just got my 55" today. Been messing around with the different picture settings and man, is it a bit overwhelming. Uncharted 4 looked amazing though. Just need to find the perfect settings.
 
dcx4610 said:
Despite a lot of these sites acting like they are gurus, they are just humans writing articles with personal preferences. You can probably get away with turning on Dynamic Contrast on low but it's still enhancing the image in an unnatural way and saturating the image.

It might brighten the image but you are losing detail.
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i agree 100%.
 
pgharavi said:
Warm 1.



CMS?
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Warm 2 will have less red (and more yellow) but you may not like how it makes other things look if you prefer warm 1. As you introduce more blue into the picture skin tones will have appear more red, for example. CMS is just referring to the individual color settings of the panel which can be adjusted under color space. I would see if you can find any color benchmarking tools online. AVS forums has some videos you should be able to use. No one can really help you with specific settings to use as optimal ones very from TV to TV. Don't just eyeball it.
 
Aske said:
I second this dumb question. Doesn't Game get rid of effects you usually don't want switched on anyway?
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I don't have my 4K tv yet as it shipped today, but I have this same issue on my current set and when watching Netflix or Amazon Instant I always switch from game mode to cinema mode and then back again when I play a game.

It was a hassle but I've grown accustomed to it.
 
III-V said:
Booting up the media player should result in a YUV output, which should be limited by default. The Samsung should then snap to limited, but what will happen when you go back to the UI? At this point I am not sure due to this bug.
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Can someone do some more testing on it? I won't be home for a while.
 
Just bought the KS8500 along with and Xbox1 and I'm pretty excited about the combo. However, I am a bit ignorant in terms of calibration...I want the best picture that the set can muster. Even though "best" is a bit relative
 
Turning the backlight to 20 is not necessary for HDR. They set it to 20 by default when an HDR signal is detected in movie mode for the most pop possible but I'd say anything above 10 will look fine. It depends on your eyes and your room. You'll still get HDR and it will still look good and noticeable.

In game mode, I usually just leave the backlight at 14 to not fry my eyeballs.
 
Elbereth said:
Just bought the KS8500 along with and Xbox1 and I'm pretty excited about the combo. However, I am a bit ignorant in terms of calibration...I want the best picture that the set can muster. Even though "best" is a bit relative
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DreadfulOmen said:
A hdr source will play with game mode, hdr+ is not hdr. Its just a mode that fakes hdr for sdr content.
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Ah. Thank you.

FarFromAnyGame said:
HDR mode will automatically turn on when it detects HDR signal while in game mode but you'll have to manually turn the backlight to 20.

HDR+ IS NOT HDR. DO NOT USE IT.
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I followed the Xbox One calibration and it looks all fine to me. Rtings doesn't actually recommend their settings to other people...?
 
sugarman said:
I followed the Xbox One calibration and it looks all fine to me. Rtings doesn't actually recommend their settings to other people...?
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They do recommend them, except white balance which is unit-specific so don't use other's settings.

Use their settings but don't mess with white balance and make sure to set color space to Auto for both SDR and HDR content. Settings it to native was because of a bug which is fixed now.
 
Elbereth said:
Just bought the KS8500 along with and Xbox1 and I'm pretty excited about the combo. However, I am a bit ignorant in terms of calibration...I want the best picture that the set can muster. Even though "best" is a bit relative
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Try Xbox one's calibration setting.
 
Am i the only one that likes auto motion plus for *single player* gaming? Destiny feels amazing and like its running at 60fps, its like im seeing the animations for the first time.....
 
Devilinthiscity said:
So for those not running streaming apps through the tv and instead are running them through a console, do you guys stay on game mode?

Dumb question, I know.
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Until NOW TV comes to the apps i have to use it via the X1. As its only a few times a week i use NOW TV i don't bother switching my setting to Movie Mode so the quality isn't as good as it could be.

Luckily LG loses its exclusivity soon and the app will appear on Samsung early 2017
 
Man this TV is breathing some great life into my old games.

31066369352_f7eee92d37_b.jpg
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I need to replace this bias lighting, got it because it was supposed to be 6500k but the color that says it's 6500k isn't even close. it's much whiter in the image, but it still has a blueish tint.
 
I am getting this today, but the glass stand will only be a couple of inches wider than the base of the TV, and I am worried it may not take much for it to be nudged off. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to make sure it doesn't slide off my stand?

I was thinking of trying to find a couple of suction cups like these, but which have an indentation on so that the feet of the TV would fit inside a little.
 
Hey guys I don't have a KS8000, I actually bought a much cheaper 6300. But I was wondering about the settings and I figured these two if not all the Samsung's would be one and the same on this topic. Anyways it says the input lag is 20/21ms when the two are using 4K, HDR, with 60hz. But the two are at 36/37ms with all that and 4:4:4 enabled. My question is does the PS4 Pro even use 4:4:4.

Basically I'd rather not have the extra input lag if I can help it. I did google 4:4:4 and it seems like a good thing I guess. But if it's not really a big deal and the Pro is using it then I'd just rather disable it to have less input lag if possible.

EDIT: Forget it, I was reading the review at Rtings again and it says you must set HDMI 1 to PC to enable it. Which is something I'm not doing so I should be getting the lowest input lag possible.
 
So the Martian is absolutely stunning in HDR, had to launch the bluray app and then relaunch for it to recognize the signal. But I fell asleep and woke up with the Xbox still on. It was in fucking insanity fan mode at the disc menu. Like, louder than my PS4 pro. I have never heard the fan that high before lol
 
Aztechnology said:
Man this TV is breathing some great life into my old games.



I need to replace this bias lighting, got it because it was supposed to be 6500k but the color that says it's 6500k isn't even close. it's much whiter in the image, but it still has a blueish tint.
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Love your screens, looks beautiful.
 
Aztechnology said:
Man this TV is breathing some great life into my old games.



I need to replace this bias lighting, got it because it was supposed to be 6500k but the color that says it's 6500k isn't even close. it's much whiter in the image, but it still has a blueish tint.
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This looks great. You seem to be pretty active in the thread. Would you mind sharing your settings?
 
Art Vandilay said:
This looks great. You seem to be pretty active in the thread. Would you mind sharing your settings?
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This is for my PC so I have it at 8 bit w/RGB . Darker room with only ambient lighting, have not done a full calibration of my set yet.

Game mode

Backlight 10
Brightness 45
Contrast 100
Sharpness 15 (I like a little extra sharpening, I wouldn't go above 20ish though)
color 50
Smart LED High
HDMI black level is normal, PC range set to full
gamma 0
color space native.

Basically the same settings as most others in the thread. I think it's just the pictures my phone takes with the Galaxy S7 edge, make things pop a little more than they should as it's not able to actually represent the color space here.
 
For those wondering about 4:4:4 it seems that you must label the input as PC and turning on game mode apparently disables it as well. So no need to worry about forcing yuv in the video settings on the PS4 for lower input lag


Turning on HDMI UHD color allows the HDMI port to use the full HDMI 2.0 bandwidth. HDMI UHD color itself should not change the picture options, but the label on the input will. It looks like the Samsung TV detected a PC and automatically switched to PC mode when at 4k@60Hz. If you would like 4k@60Hz but do not require chroma 4:4:4 then change your input label to 'Blu-ray Player'.

For chroma 4:4:4 at any frame rate/resolution it is necessary to change the input to 'PC'. This is because it is a 'use-case', as 4:4:4 is only really beneficial for PC users and also benefits from lower input lag. Disabling some picture processing does reduce input lag. It is probably not because of any technical limitation, but the settings are enabled/disabled to match the typical user.
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This is possible, and it does reduce the input lag to the 'game' levels. The disadvantage is that in this mode it doesn't display chroma subsampling correctly, however for most people this isn't an issue. In some situations chroma subsampling can increase the readability of text on certain backgrounds.
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Hi

I received my KS7000 (UK) yesterday and although I didn't have much time did some testing with my PS4. The TV looks great however I kept getting dropouts where the screen turns black for a second.

Didn't have time last night to troubleshoot. Has anyone else had this issue? TV is on firmware 1150.7 and the PS4 on 4.06. This is the only thing I have found regarding the issue:

http://community.eu.playstation.com/t5/PS4-Support/PS4-Pro-random-black-screen-dropouts/m-p/24693423

I'm not at home at the moment to test. I just haven't seen anyone elese mention dropouts in this (very extensive!) thread.
 
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