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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Edition of SSD's for everyone! |OT|

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Adzin

Neo Member
Hi guys, first post here!

Today, my Corsair F60 SSD died on me.

A few weeks ago, I believe my SSD became corrupted due to a known sleep/hibernation issue. I could continue to use the drive but I was limited to which programs I could use (some programs would cause the computer to hang and BSOD). I have many work deadlines coming so I wanted to get my work finished before cleaning the drive and reinstalling the OS and my other programs.

However, today the SSD completely died after my PC randomly reset. Now the drive cannot be recognised by my PC, nor my other, older computer.

So I've ordered a new SSD, as I can't wait around for an RMA (my deadlines are next week!)

My question is, can I easily reinstall Windows 7 and Office 2010 on this new SSD? Will I have issues with licencing/authorization?

(sorry for the long-winded post!)
 

DangerStepp

Member
sk3tch said:
Do you guys think my PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207002) and the MSI Lightning GTX 580 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127579) would play nice?

It's an XFX 650W PSU and my system is an i5 2500K @ 4.7GHz with 2 x 1TB Samsung F3 drives and a Xonar DG. I see the XFX 650W PSU has two 6+2 PCI-E connectors so I should be good...I'm replacing a MSI Radeon 6950 2GB with unlocked shaders.
I would think so, but I know for a fact that I found a 730W on the cheap back in 2008. Of course, it's all contingent on the upgrades you plan on making in the future.

I believe this is what I ended up getting: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152036&Tpk=PSU RAIDMAX

It's held up well in the 3+ years I've had it.
 

chaosblade

Unconfirmed Member
Adzin said:
My question is, can I easily reinstall Windows 7 and Office 2010 on this new SSD? Will I have issues with licencing/authorization?
I assume you have an OEM version of Windows, that should be tied to the motherboard. So you should be fine. Even if you aren't, doesn't Windows have a 30 day trial/grace period? You should be covered either way.

Finally, if all else fails, you are given a number to an automated hotline to activate Windows if it can't do it on it's own. Takes like 5 minutes.
 

Erebus

Member
vexvegaz said:
hazaro inspired me to try and get my oc to the lowest vcore as possible, seems like 4.7 @ 1.35 is as high as i can go and still keep my vcore at a conservative number.

4700.png
Is that a windows gadget on the top right corner of your screen?
 

TheExodu5

Banned

bananaman1234

Unconfirmed Member
I have my gtx560 ti connected to one 6 pin pcie cable and one molex to pcie adapter. I didn't realize I had another 6 pin cable on my PSU until now. Should I switch the adapter for the 6 pin or does it not really matter?
 

sk3tch

Member
DangerStepp said:
I would think so, but I know for a fact that I found a 730W on the cheap back in 2008. Of course, it's all contingent on the upgrades you plan on making in the future.

I believe this is what I ended up getting: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152036&Tpk=PSU RAIDMAX

It's held up well in the 3+ years I've had it.

TheExodu5 said:
Not a problem.


Thanks! Single card is all I will ever do...but I will upgrade later if need be. This bad boy was $50 after rebate and it's a Seasonic so I dig it (the XFX 650W).
 

Diseased Yak

Gold Member
So I'm in the early research/planning stages of building a new box. My last full build was in the fall of 2007 (Q6600, etc.) and then a GPU upgrade in April 2009 (upgraded to 4890).

Question: Is there any compelling reason to get a 2nd SSD to house my Steam folder?
 

Tain

Member
Got my new components last night, started building, aaaaand apparently the Asus 580 that I bought is ever-so-slightly longer than all the other 580s. It would not fit in the CM Storm case (despite the case's materials claiming it fit "large-sized cards"). Should have gone with a full tower in the first place.

A roommate had a not so great spare ATX full case, and being impatient I decided to set everything up with it while my new case is coming. Only really got to play Brink last night by the time all is said and done, but, hey, ran like a dream. SSDs are delicious.

New case should be here tomorrow, thankfully. Amazon Prime student deal came through yet again.
 

Van Owen

Banned
I'm going to be building a new machine in the next few weeks and have it all planned out except for the graphics card. Should I stick with ATI? What's the best current single card solution right now that will let me play most games at 1080p at 60fps? I see Nvida has a new "sweet spot" card coming out next week...
 

ExMachina

Unconfirmed Member
Picked up a new monitor and sound card from Microcenter today... both Asus. :D

Good lord, the sound quality on the Xonar DG is so much better than my mobo's on-board audio, at $20 (w/ rebate), I'm really happy with the purchase.

So ready for the Witcher 2 to come out...
 

DeVeAn

Member
Quick question, I already have a i5 2500K ($224.99) that should be here any second. I was browsing amazon and saw the i7 2600K ($299.24). Would it be worth the trouble and money to change it before I start building?
 

squicken

Member
So is there a clear winner in the SATA 2 SSD market? Not going to be upgrading to SATA 3 anytime soon, so I was hoping there might be some good value in the 120GB market, but everything still seems >$200.
 
Hey guys. So I finished building my first rig and I though everything came together nicely. Followed a step by step video and had no problems connected everything.

Just booted it up to see if it worked and ran into this error:

"Chassis Intruded!
Fatal Error . . . System Halted."

As this is my first build and I'm completely new at this...I have no idea where to even begin. Any ideas?

(I followed the $1000 build in the OP).
 

ExMachina

Unconfirmed Member
DeVeAn said:
Quick question, I already have a i5 2500K ($224.99) that should be here any second. I was browsing amazon and saw the i7 2600K ($299.24). Would it be worth the trouble and money to change it before I start building?
The only real difference between the two is that the 2600k has hyperthreading and the 2500k does not. If you do tasks that actually can make use of the extra virtual cores like video encoding, then get the 2600k. If your primary use is gaming, just get the 2500k since there's very little performance difference between the two for games.
 
DarkChronic said:
Hey guys. So I finished building my first rig and I though everything came together nicely. Followed a step by step video and had no problems connected everything.

Just booted it up to see if it worked and ran into this error:

"Chassis Intruded!
Fatal Error . . . System Halted."

As this is my first build and I'm completely new at this...I have no idea where to even begin. Any ideas?

(I followed the $1000 build in the OP).

I got this solution from googling...seems to help out a number of people with the same problem.

ASUSTek forum said:
this comes up alot with asus motherboards, heres my fix. check the sensor is not at fault bootup the computer and let it sit on the chassis intrusion message for 5 seconds press the power button once (don't hold it in, flick the psu switch or pull the power cable out) wait until it shuts down , and then remove the power cable, wait 5 seconds plug it back in and power it up, all should be good.

Source: http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx...d_id=1&model=P5V800-MX&page=1&SLanguage=en-us
 

knitoe

Member
DarkChronic said:
Hey guys. So I finished building my first rig and I though everything came together nicely. Followed a step by step video and had no problems connected everything.

Just booted it up to see if it worked and ran into this error:

"Chassis Intruded!
Fatal Error . . . System Halted."

As this is my first build and I'm completely new at this...I have no idea where to even begin. Any ideas?

(I followed the $1000 build in the OP).
Personally, I have never seem this error after building many PCs. From google, looks like you can disable it by jumper on MB, in bios and/or removing the chassis intrusion cable from the MB.
 

DeVeAn

Member
ExMachina said:
The only real difference between the two is that the 2600k has hyperthreading and the 2500k does not. If you do tasks that actually can make use of the extra virtual cores like video encoding, then get the 2600k. If your primary use is gaming, just get the 2500k since there's very little performance difference between the two for games.
Thanks, yea mostly gaming and browsing is what I will be doing.
 
Alright after over a year of my 4870 pissing me off to no end, Ive decided to retire it get a new graphics card.( I have a 9600 GSO to get me through these hard times)

First let me start out with my other relevant specs:
Core 2 duo 6850
4gigs gddr 2

Im looking to spend around $150 for a new graphics card so I'm looking at a 550 or 460(don't feel like going with ati again). Now I want to upgrade my computer soon, so I was thinking whatever i get I can get another one when I do my upgrade and throw them into SLI. I guess I have 3 questions:

1) Will my CPU be that big of a bottleneck, or can it still hold the fort a little longer?

2) 550 or 460?

3) Should I just wait for the next round later this year, because based on that roadmap chart the next round of cards is going to get a serious performance bump. Or will two 550's(or 460's) be able to match that.
 

Kyaw

Member
460 definitely. Two 460s is slightly ahead of one 580.

Dont wait around really. You could get the 560 though, if you can save up a bit more.
The CPU might be a bit of a pain in the neck but games atm arent optimised for quad+ core CPUs. Maybe BF3 and Skyrim.
 
black_vegeta said:
-solution-

Excellent! This seemed to work! Very weird...

Anyway, now I've run into another issue. I'm not getting that error anymore, but I can't get the motherboard to read the hard drive. It tells me no hard drive is found.

I'm 99% sure the HDD is installed correctly. I have it in the first slot, with the actual power cord from the PSU plugged into it, as well as that L shaped connector in the HDD and other end in the SATA port. Does it matter what SATA port? I have both the HDD and the disc drive in the first SATA port (A1/A2), which is a gray slot, with two blue SATA ports beneath it (Asus P8P67 mobo). There is also another slot above the gray one but its labeled E1/E2. Do I need to use that for my HDD/disc drive?

I feel like I'm so close here. Very frustrating...

Thanks all!
 

Cheech

Member
unagisensei said:
Warning about that keyboard (which I'm typing on right now). The key combination of left shift + W + space bar, which is commonly in used in FPS for jumping while running, does not work. I've spent more time than I should have arguing with logitech about this, but the conclusion is that they claim it's not supposed to work because this is not a "gaming series" keyboard (which I think is BS because I've never owned a 'gaming' keyboard, and i've never had this problem). From what I've seen at various places online, the new wireless version (K800 I believe) does not have the same keyblocking issues.

Seconded on the keyboard. I have that same one, and it's disappointing. No more Logitech keyboards for me.
 

knitoe

Member
DarkChronic said:
Excellent! This seemed to work! Very weird...

Anyway, now I've run into another issue. I'm not getting that error anymore, but I can't get the motherboard to read the hard drive. It tells me no hard drive is found.

I'm 99% sure the HDD is installed correctly. I have it in the first slot, with the actual power cord from the PSU plugged into it, as well as that L shaped connector in the HDD and other end in the SATA port. Does it matter what SATA port? I have both the HDD and the disc drive in the first SATA port (A1/A2), which is a gray slot, with two blue SATA ports beneath it (Asus P8P67 mobo). There is also another slot above the gray one but its labeled E1/E2. Do I need to use that for my HDD/disc drive?

I feel like I'm so close here. Very frustrating...

Thanks all!
Use the Intel data ports. Check your manual. Should be bottom light blue ones and the set right above it. And, did you check in the bios to see if any drive are detected? If you are getting the "no drive" message outside of the bios, it's because you don't have anything connected to the marvel sata ports (top). You can disable those ports and get rid of the message in the bios.
 
knitoe said:
Use the Intel data ports. Check your manual. Should be bottom light blue ones and the set right above it. And, did you check in the bios to see if any drive are detected? If you are getting the "no drive" message outside of the bios, it's because you don't have anything connected to the marvel sata ports (top). You can disable those ports and get rid of the message in the bios.

Success! After some trial/error and and disabling/enabling things, as well as replugging stuff in, seemed to have done the trick. Bios recognizes the HDD now. Awesome!

Installing Windows now, keeping my fingers crossed. You guys have been awesome. I'll be sure to post some pictures of the setup when all is said and done!
 

RS4-

Member
Ok grabbing a 2GB 6950 tomorrow since it was only $200, replacing my 8800 GT. Anything I should be wary of when it comes to swapping them out?

Remove drivers first -> swap cards -> get new drivers?
Or just swap -> remove -> get new?
 
DarkChronic said:
Success! After some trial/error and and disabling/enabling things, as well as replugging stuff in, seemed to have done the trick. Bios recognizes the HDD now. Awesome!

Installing Windows now, keeping my fingers crossed. You guys have been awesome. I'll be sure to post some pictures of the setup when all is said and done!

Cool, glad to hear it worked out.
 

CaLe

Member
Hey guys,

I'm about to pull the trigger on this build, any comments before I do so would be greatly appreciated :

Note: I will be re-using my current ATI 6870, unless you guys think it's too old to go with a system like this.

Intel Core i5 2500K
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Z68
Crucial M4 SSD Micron C400 128GB 2.5IN Solid State Disk Flash Drive SATA3 6Gbps
Coolit Systems Eco CPU Water Cooling System
Samsung SH-S243D/BEBE 24X Black DVD Writer SATA OEM
NZXT Phantom EATX Steel Computer Case - White
G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory
OCZ Z-SERIES 1000W 80+ Gold Certified 24PIN ATX 83A 12V Afc Modular Power Supply W/ 135mm Fan
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200 RPM

Total : 1 186$ CAD

Thanks again
 
RS4- said:
Ok grabbing a 2GB 6950 tomorrow since it was only $200, replacing my 8800 GT. Anything I should be wary of when it comes to swapping them out?

Remove drivers first -> swap cards -> get new drivers?
Or just swap -> remove -> get new?
$200? Link?

Personally I would remove the drivers, sweep them in safe mode, swap cards, and then install the new drivers.
 
CaLe said:
Hey guys,

I'm about to pull the trigger on this build, any comments before I do so would be greatly appreciated :

Note: I will be re-using my current ATI 6870, unless you guys think it's too old to go with a system like this.

Intel Core i5 2500K
ASUS P8Z68-V Pro Z68
Crucial M4 SSD Micron C400 128GB 2.5IN Solid State Disk Flash Drive SATA3 6Gbps
Coolit Systems Eco CPU Water Cooling System
Samsung SH-S243D/BEBE 24X Black DVD Writer SATA OEM
NZXT Phantom EATX Steel Computer Case - White
G.SKILL Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL 8GB 2X4GB DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9-24 Memory
OCZ Z-SERIES 1000W 80+ Gold Certified 24PIN ATX 83A 12V Afc Modular Power Supply W/ 135mm Fan
Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB SATA3 6GB/S 7200 RPM

Total : 1 186$ CAD

Thanks again
Where are you ordering from, NCIX? What resolution are you gonna be playing at?
 

CaLe

Member
opticalmace said:
Where are you ordering from, NCIX? What resolution are you gonna be playing at?

Yes I am ordering from NCIX :)

I will be playing at 1920*1200, sometimes at 1920*1080 when I play on my TV.

Thanks
 

Smokey

Member
Ok so I don't know if my case is using all 3 fans (Silverstone FT02). I'm looking at this ASUS Suite II tool and only chasis fan and cpu fan are returning RPM. The other slots which read chasis 2 and power fan are greyed out and say 0 rpm. When I mess with the fan speed on my case one by one I can hear the fan(s?), but that could just be the same fan fucking with me

Help?
 
"Ok so I don't know if my case is using all 3 fans (Silverstone FT02). I'm looking at this ASUS Suite II tool and only chasis fan and cpu fan are returning RPM. The other slots which read chasis 2 and power fan are greyed out and say 0 rpm. When I mess with the fan speed on my case one by one I can hear the fan(s?), but that could just be the same fan fucking with me"

Take off the side and look at them?
 
Smokey said:
Ok so I don't know if my case is using all 3 fans (Silverstone FT02). I'm looking at this ASUS Suite II tool and only chasis fan and cpu fan are returning RPM. The other slots which read chasis 2 and power fan are greyed out and say 0 rpm. When I mess with the fan speed on my case one by one I can hear the fan(s?), but that could just be the same fan fucking with me

Help?
Isn't your H70 the only thing connected to the motherboard headers? That's what you're seeing.

The AP181s are running directly off the PSU, so you won't get a reading from them.
 

Smokey

Member
·feist· said:
Isn't your H70 the only thing connected to the motherboard headers? That's what you're seeing.

The AP181s are running directly off the PSU, so you won't get a reading from them.

ohhhhhhh
 

Blackheim

Member
Smokey said:
...Stuff...

Yeah, pull off the side and do a visual check. Also, the software might not be picking up and displaying RPM for the fans if they are not connected to the connectors on the board that match up to the inputs that the software is monitoring. This happened to me once when I plugged into a fan connector that the software didn't monitor.
 
"hey i mentioned when i started this that there would be some noob questions and i'm not ashamed to ask them"

That's fine, but it didn't seem like you were doing what people were suggesting.
 

Diseased Yak

Gold Member
So anyone see a benefit in locating my Steam games on, say, an OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD, as opposed to a Samsung F3? Would I see that much of a gain?

Second question: In everyone's opinion, what's the best gaming keyboard available (price no object)
 

Smokey

Member
Diseased Yak said:
So anyone see a benefit in locating my Steam games on, say, an OCZ Vertex 3 120GB SSD, as opposed to a Samsung F3? Would I see that much of a gain?

Second question: In everyone's opinion, what's the best gaming keyboard available (price no object)

I have the Razer Black Widow. Sweet keyboard, and it's mechanical. There's a more expensive version if you want one that lights up

Teknopathetic said:
"hey i mentioned when i started this that there would be some noob questions and i'm not ashamed to ask them"

That's fine, but it didn't seem like you were doing what people were suggesting.


Ok so all 3 are spinning...but guess I can't control fan speed from the case. So I I want to do that while still using my H70...what's the solution?
 
Smokey said:
Ok so all 3 are spinning...but guess I can't control fan speed from the case. So I I want to do that while still using my H70...what's the solution?
If there ate additional headers on the mobo connect the fans to the mobo.
 
"Ok so all 3 are spinning...but guess I can't control fan speed from the case. So I I want to do that while still using my H70...what's the solution?"

Buy a fan controller like this. Note, I don't actually know if that's a good fan controller or not, just giving you an idea of what kind of product you'd be looking for.

Other than that, use the switches on top of the case for "low" and "high" mode.
 
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